Thinning Hair - Stylist and Salon Newspapers

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In this issue... 3 6 10 Beauty Business Buzz With so much diversity out there, what do you do to tap into a wider market? Charlene Abretske offers suggestions like allowing your clients access to universal treatments, specializing and branching out. Off the Top Kimberly Johnson shares messages that may not always be politically correct in her new column “Off the Top”. However, some of her experiences may give the reader comfort to realize that they are not the first who has struggled to handle a mistake, or even a success, in a graceful way. Better Business Neil Ducoff discusses performance expectations from leaders that are out of sync with capabilities and strengths of employees. Beauty Business Buzz . . . . . . . . . . 3 Blue Highways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 The Nail Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Off the Top. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Marketing Straightening Services . . 7 How to Care for Curly Hair . . . . . . . 8 Esthetic Endeavors . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Fat Profits from Thinning Hair. . . . . 9 Better Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Oregon Board News. . . . . . . . . . 13 Washington Board News . . . . . . . 14 Flying Lessons . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15-17 Mane Objective . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 What’s New in the Market . . . . . . 19 On the cover... Cover Photo Courtesy of Brocato Curlinterrupted 2.0 Curlinterrupted Smoothing System transforms frizzy, unruly hair into a soft, smooth, sleek sensation. While straightening systems have gained world-wide popularity, Sam Brocato is concerned that many contain toxins that could be harmful to you and your clients’ health. Curlinterrupted 2.0 tames coarse, frizzy hair while maintaining strict standards of health and safety. Texture Has Many Colors Blue Highways Jerry Tyler Diversity in the Multicultural Market When I think of all the advances in the multicultural market over the last few years, one word seems to stand out more than others: texture. No other word better defines the needs and challenges facing this segment of our industry. Almost every aspect of the multicultural market revolves around texture; either the desire to embrace and enhance it or the desire to convert it to a texture that is more desirable to the wearer. Both of these driving forces have a major impact on the market as a whole. As progressive industry professionals, we need to understand these needs and desires, both as a means to stay relevant in our ever-expanding industry and as a matter of cultural awareness. Many in the market who have long dealt with the desire to alter the natural texture of their hair have endured heat (through thermal conversion) and strong chemicals. With the current attention focusing on a more natural and holistic lifestyle, many are going back to embracing their natural texture by using organic products, and using timeless techniques to create braids, locks and twists. These methods celebrate their cultural heritage, as many of these techniques have been handed down, mother to daughter, aunt to niece and friend to friend. This shift is evident in many products that have now gone back to nature to encourage hair and scalp care, prevent hair loss and promote hair growth. Some industry leaders have even gone back generations to their relatives’ home prescriptions that used what was available in the kitchen. Some used natural herbs and emulsions to create hair and scalp products that cleanse and condition naturally, many coming from their cultural ancestors. In generations past, the use of natural oils and tonics to dress the hair was common, and promoted shine and manageability. Braiding is the oldest form of hairdressing. It is used as a foundation for attaching hair with an alternative texture, as well as in natural hairstyling. In its natural state, there is nothing more appealing or beautiful as braiding as an art form. On the other side, when not applied with care and proper tension, braiding has a huge potential to create long-term hair loss and scalp damage. There is even a medical term for hair loss due to improper braiding, called “Traction Alopecia.” Next to hair loss from medical conditions, Traction Alopecia has been recognized as the primary source of premature hair loss in the multicultural market. Faced with this challenge, many industry leaders are using modern technology, natural prescriptives and even diet and mineral supplements to re-grow lost hair. This has made Trichology, the study of the health of hair and scalp, the fastest expanding area in this market segment, with many working to create alternative solutions to the challenges of hair loss. The other part of the multicultural market that is ever expanding is the component that focuses on hair additions and enhancement. This is where the client wants to convert their natural hair to another texture, length or even color through the addition of added-on hair. Again, when braiding is used as a foundation for attachment, great care must be taken to alleviate stress and prevent hair loss by creating a low or no tension base for securing the hair. In addition, it is important to employ braiding strategies that allow the scalp to breathe and receive cleansers and tonics, all of which are crucial to promoting and protecting scalp health during the duration of the hair enhancement. There is an ever-increasing demand for hair to be provided for weaves, extensions and lace front wigs, as well as for non-surgical hair replacement. This demand necessitates increased dialogue and honest communication with hair suppliers, especially since the consumer purchases much of the hair in the multicultural market and then gives it to the industry professional for attachment. This can lead to unethical practices, with the unwary purchaser buying some hair not meeting the state standards which can result in a negative outcome for the consumer, either short term or long term. The consumer, not the professional, purchases approximately 70 – 80 percent of the hair sold in the multicultural market. Therefore, consumer education and protection should be at the forefront in order to maintain safe practice standards where hair enhancement is involved. With the constant evolution and growth in the multicultural market, there are untold opportunities that await us as industry professionals. These opportunities will continue to provide outlets for creative expression, as well as provide solutions for this wonderful component of the industry marketplace. Jerry Tyler’s column Blue Highways is his “Road Less Traveled” perspective on the solutions and challenges facing the beauty industry. Jerry Tyler has been a stylist since 1975 serving as the former artistic director for Vidal Sassoon Academy and currently as Director of Education for Carlton Hair salons. He is also a licensed cosmetology instructor and has served as President of the California State Board of Barbering and Cosmetology. READ IT! SAVE IT! PRINT IT! NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE! View this article and more at www.stylistnewspapers.com Northwest Stylist & Salon Volume XXVI, Number 11, Issue 307 October 15 - November 15, 2010 Founded 1984 by David Porter Published monthly by Holland Graphics, Inc. 1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24 Portland OR 97221 Toll-free (888) 297-7010 or (503) 297-7010 Fax (503) 297-7022 E-mail: editor@nwstylist.com Web site: www.nwstylist.com Publisher Holland Graphics, Inc. Managing Editor Lisa Kind Production Manager Joel Holland Advertising Director Marcy Avenson Classified Sales Kelly Smith Contributing Writers: Judy Culp, Jerry Tyler, Charlene Abretske, Neil Ducoff, Jaime Schrabeck, Marco Pelusi, Steve Sleeper, Michelle Laxson, Rebekah Vigil, Cindy Van Steelandt, Craig Black Oregon Board of Cosmetology Kraig Bohot, Communications Officer Washington State Advisory Board Susan Colard, Administrator NW STYLIST & SALON is mailed free of charge to licensed salons and barbershops, booth renters and beauty schools in Oregon and Washington. Circulation is restricted to members of the beauty and barber profession, its suppliers and students. CONTRIBUTIONS OF PHOTOS, ARTICLES, etc., are welcome. Payment offered only when arrangements are made in writing in advance with the editor/ publisher. ALL MATERIAL COPYRIGHT 2010 by Holland Graphics, Inc. and/or the bylined authors or photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. OPINIONS AND ENDORSEMENTS herein are the sole responsibility of the writers or advertisers and do not necessarily represent the opinions of the publisher or the State Boards of each state. Publication of advertising contained herein does not constitute endorsement. Columns are the opinions of the writers and not those of the publisher. NW Stylist & Salon assumes no responsibility for the claims of any advertiser in their paid advertising nor in the promotional material they provide either orally or in writing. Advertising does not imply that the paper will provide any editorial coverage, photos, calendar mention, or any other space or consideration other than actual space purchased. All advertising must be paid in advance of publication in lieu of prior arrangements. Invoices paid after terms will be subject to a 2.5% per month service charge. Delinquent invoices may be subject to a handling fee of 25%. Published rates are net. Agencies add 15% for gross cost. No Agency discounts. In the event a suit or action is brought to collect amounts due NW Stylist & Salon shall be entitled to recover attorney fees and costs incurred. ADDITIONAL OR OUT-OF-STATE SUBSCRIP- TIONS: For a one year subscription, send name, address and zip with check for $20 payable to HOL- LAND GRAPHICS, INC. to Subscriptions, NW Stylist & Salon, 1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24, Portland, OR 97221. Address changes require old mailing label. | OCTOBER 2010 | NORTHWEST STYLIST & SALON
Dare to be Different The Nail Extension Jaime Schrabeck Diversity is not a word that immediately comes to mind when discussing the nail profession. In many ways, professional nail care could be described as the least diverse segment of the beauty industry. Most of the manicurists are female, as are most of the clients. While most manicurists may be of a particular cultural background or socioeconomic status, most of their clients likely represent another. As more salons open, the more similar they seem. Furthermore, nail services (manicures, pedicures, enhancements, etc.) tend to be universal and less diverse than hair and skin care services. Perhaps, that is because manicurists typically do not give the condition of nails as much consideration when selecting products and performing services as hair or skin professionals give to the condition of hair and skin. Few manicurists specialize in a particular service. This is not because they are equally proficient in a variety of services, but because they do not want to limit their clientele, or perhaps are unable or unwilling to develop the skills necessary to become a true expert. Contrast that with hair professionals who may market themselves as color correction specialists, or skin professionals who promote themselves as waxing queens. This lack of diversity could be accepted as a limitation inherent to the nail profession; however, it could also be viewed as an opportunity to reach beyond what is expected and achieve what is possible. The relatively low status of nail professionals within the beauty industry, the similarity among nail salons and the low expectations of consumers, may be seen as challenges as well as opportunities. This choice will influence not only your perspective, but also every other decision you make as a nail salon owner. Diversifying would seem a worthy goal, but first we must determine exactly what that means. Most salon owners view diversity as a challenge to do more: add services, extend hours, increase retail offerings, expand the salon, advertise regularly, discount prices, etc. These options may seem entirely reasonable; in fact, there have been many articles written to justify them. However, before adding ear candling, chakra healing and matchmaking to the service menu, or selling nutritional supplements, ask yourself, “How does this enhance my reputation as a successful nail professional?” Salon consultants earn thousands of dollars explaining what might be obvious if salon owners were able to evaluate their own businesses both objectively and critically. Understanding what is working, as well as what is not, is a crucial first step before committing to any major changes. Any change could prove to be a costly mistake without proper research first. It is entirely possible your well-intentioned efforts will backfire by wasting your resources, alienating your existing clientele or diluting your brand. For example, if your salon appeals strongly to a particular demographic, such as older professional women, as mine does, you may not need to target a different group, but just find more effective ways to reach potential clients. If I were to make the mistake of targeting teenage girls to increase my clientele, my salon would need to undergo some major changes (decor, pricing, music, etc) and my existing clients would not be pleased. Having those new clients would not be worthwhile if they detracted from the experience my loyal clients expect and value. Part of understanding my business is recognizing my best clients and providing them with quality nail services in a clean, upscale environment. Growing your business is a process that requires information, much of which you can discover for yourself with the help of clients, coworkers and the larger business community. The following questions, while not exhaustive, are designed to generate discussion to help guide you in your decisions. What is the culture of your salon? What makes your salon and / or services unique? What is the first thing someone notices upon entering? How would you describe the relationships among coworkers? How would you describe your clients? What do they value most: convenience, price, time, etc? Which services are your most popular and why? Which services are most / least profitable? Are clients requesting services you do not offer, specific products or procedures? What products sell the best, which do not sell well? What compliments or complaints do you hear most often? How well does your location serve your business? What is your relationship with other businesses? How does your salon contribute to the community? What is your biggest obstacle to being more successful? What aspect of your business do you enjoy most, and what do you enjoy the least? And so on . . . Diversity is not a challenge to do more, but an opportunity to be different, better, and more successful. Clients should expect more of nail salons, and we should exceed their expectations with clean, safe, quality services. Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D. owns Precision Nails, an exclusive nails-only salon in Carmel, California. She can be reached at info@precisionnails.com. READ IT! SAVE IT! PRINT IT! NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE! View this article and more at www.stylistnewspapers.com Remember your umbrella 503.358.0782 Protect hair from the effects of humidity... rain drops argan oil treatment • nourishing • quenching • deep penetrating • brilliant shine • no paraben Exclusive Salon Offers at www.sidlabhair.com to style, love and protect NORTHWEST STYLIST & SALON | OCTOBER 2010 |
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