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Featuring fabrics from County Clare by Jinny Beyer - RJR Fabrics

Featuring fabrics from County Clare by Jinny Beyer - RJR Fabrics

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Designed <strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong><br />

73" x 73" Blue Colorway<br />

73" x 73" Red Colorway<br />

<strong>Featuring</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> <strong>from</strong> <strong>County</strong> <strong>Clare</strong><br />

<strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong>


Skill Level: Intermediate - Advanced<br />

<strong>County</strong> <strong>Clare</strong><br />

Designed <strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong><br />

Finished Quilt: 73" x 73"<br />

Instructions <strong>by</strong> Shannon Murray<br />

Please read the pattern carefully before you begin<br />

All seams are 1 /4"-All strips are cut the width of fabric, except as instructed otherwise-carefully trim all selvages.<br />

An original design <strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong>, <strong>County</strong> <strong>Clare</strong> is a beautiful quilt design that gives an optical illusion of three-dimensional depth <strong>by</strong> fragmenting colors.<br />

The toile scenes are bordered and complemented <strong>by</strong> their surrounding fragmented diamonds and squares. Four identical x-shaped units make up this<br />

quilt. Each unit is a combination of eight fragmented parallelograms and four fragmented squares. The four x units are joined together with four bordered<br />

square toile scenes set on-point.<br />

To finish the quilt, eight bordered half squares set on-point are set into the outer sections of the x’s of the four original units. The quilt is classically<br />

finished in the traditional <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> manner <strong>by</strong> the addition of a complimentary border.<br />

Fabric Requirements and Cutting Directions<br />

Fabric<br />

Key<br />

Border Prints<br />

Border<br />

Print<br />

Fabric<br />

Swatch<br />

Style<br />

Style<br />

Fabric<br />

Colorway<br />

Colorway Cutting Directions Yardage<br />

Swatch<br />

#1 – Blue #2 – Red<br />

From the wide stripe of the border fabric cut 4 strips 99"<br />

long <strong>by</strong> 6" wide.<br />

From the narrow stripe of the border fabric cut 4 strips<br />

6248-04 6248-03 2 1 /8" x 62".<br />

3 1 /2 Yards<br />

Set aside the remainder of the narrow border print to<br />

use in Cutting D and F, E <strong>from</strong> the Toile Print and an F<br />

<strong>from</strong> Border Print <strong>Fabrics</strong>.<br />

Middle 2266-06 5747-08<br />

Border Palette #66 Palette #140<br />

Cut 4 strips 3 1 /2" wide the length of the fabric.<br />

1 Yard<br />

NOTE: Cut<br />

length-wise.<br />

(2 Yards split<br />

lengthwise down<br />

the middle of the<br />

Fabric.)<br />

Focus Fabric: Refer to Templates D and E for fussy cutting - both machine and hand piecing.<br />

For cutting directions see Cutting D and F <strong>from</strong> Toile<br />

Toile 6254-01 6254-03 1 Yard<br />

Print <strong>Fabrics</strong>.<br />

Unit 1<br />

& 1(r):<br />

For machine piecing, follow strip cutting directions. For hand piecing, cut the number of templates given in italic print. After cutting out<br />

the templates, refer to Template G to trim the sharper points of the parallelogram – this allows for perfect alignment when piecing.<br />

Cut 2 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #1 6249-04 6249-03 (approximately 42" wide). 1/4 Yard<br />

Cut 8 pieces of Template A and 8 of Template A(r).<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #2 5745-04 6251-03 (approximately 42" wide). 3/8 Yard<br />

Palette #62<br />

Cut 16 pieces of Template A and 16 of Template A(r).<br />

Cut 6 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #3 6252-11 6252-03 (approximately 42" wide). 5/8 Yard<br />

Cut 24 pieces of Template A and 24 of Template A(r).


Fabric Requirements and Cutting Directions (continued)<br />

Fabric<br />

Key<br />

Fabric<br />

Swatch<br />

Style<br />

Style<br />

Fabric<br />

Colorway<br />

Colorway Cutting Directions Yardage<br />

Swatch<br />

#1 – Blue #2 – Red<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #4 6250-01 6249-02 (approximately 42" wide).<br />

Cut 16 pieces of Template A and 16 of Template A(r).<br />

3/8 Yard<br />

Cut 2 strips– 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #5 6251-01 6253-31 (approximately 42" wide).<br />

Cut 8 pieces of Template A and 8 of Template A(r).<br />

1/4 Yard<br />

Unit 2<br />

& 2(r):<br />

For machine piecing, follow strip cutting directions. For hand piecing, cut the number of templates given in italic print. After cutting out<br />

the templates, refer to Template G to trim the sharper points of the parallelogram – this allows for perfect alignment when piecing.<br />

Cut 2 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #6 2767-03 5745-09 (approximately 42" wide). 1/4 Yard<br />

Palette #127 Palette #146 Cut 8 pieces of Template B and 8 of Template B(r).<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #7 6249-01 6251-02 (approximately 42" wide). 3/8 Yard<br />

Cut 16 pieces of Template B and 16 of Template B(r).<br />

Cut 6 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #8 6251-04 6250-02 (approximately 42" wide). 5/8 Yard<br />

Cut 24 pieces of Template B and 24 of Template B(r).<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #9 6253-01 5747-08 (approximately 42" wide). 3/8 Yard<br />

Palette #140 Cut 16 pieces of Template B and 16 of Template B(r).<br />

Cut 2 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

Fabric #10 2266-06 5748-02 (approximately 42" wide). 1/4 Yard<br />

Palette #66 Palette #98 Cut 8 pieces of Template B and 8 of Template B(r).<br />

Unit 3<br />

& 3(r):<br />

For machine piecing, follow strip cutting directions. For hand piecing, cut the squares with directions given in italic<br />

print <strong>from</strong> Template 3 or 3(r).<br />

Fabric #11 4002-09 9701-D4<br />

Palette #79 Palette #113<br />

Fabric # 12 5747-07 3302-08<br />

Palette #80 Palette #114<br />

Fabric #13 6252-04 6251-03<br />

Fabric #14 6250-04 6253-04<br />

Cut 2 – 2 3 /4" strips the width of the fabric<br />

(approximately 42" wide).<br />

Cut 2 – 2 3 /4" strips the width of the fabric.<br />

Sub-cut into 16 squares – 2 3 /4" x 2 3 /4" .<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

(approximately 42" wide).<br />

Cut 3 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric.<br />

Sub-cut into 32 squares – 2 3 /4" x 2 3 /4" .<br />

Cut 6 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

(approximately 42" wide).<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric.<br />

Sub-cut into 48 squares – 2 3 /4" x 2 3 /4" .<br />

Cut 4 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

(approximately 42” wide).<br />

Cut 3 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric.<br />

Sub-cut into 32 squares – 2 3 /4" x 2 3 /4" .<br />

1/4 Yard<br />

3 /8 Yard<br />

5/8 Yard<br />

3/8 Yard


Fabric Requirements and Cutting Directions (continued)<br />

Fabric<br />

Key<br />

Fabric #15<br />

Fabric<br />

Swatch<br />

Style<br />

Style<br />

Fabric<br />

Colorway<br />

Colorway Cutting Directions Yardage<br />

Swatch<br />

#1 – Blue #2 – Red<br />

Cut 2 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric<br />

5747-06 9812-10 (approximately 42" wide). 1/4 Yard<br />

Palette #68 Palette #8 Cut 2 strips – 2 3 /4" the width of the fabric.<br />

Sub-cut into 16 squares – 2 3 /4" x 2 3 /4" .<br />

Binding 6251-04 6251-03 3/4 Yard<br />

Backing<br />

Any Coordinating Backing Fabric<br />

Note: Buy additional fabric if fabric has a repeat<br />

in order to align the repeat properly before seaming.<br />

4 1 /2 Yards<br />

Optional notions and resources: <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong>’s Perfect Piecer $13.95, Quiltmaking <strong>by</strong> Hand <strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong> $29.95 available at www.jinnybeyer.com<br />

Capturing the Three-Dimensional Design<br />

To Capture the three-dimensional design it is important to follow the fabric<br />

placement .Refer to the quilt pictured and Figure #6 for exact placement.<br />

Units 1 & 1(r), 2 & 2(r), and 3 & 3(r) are identical in color. The difference<br />

between these individual units is the way the seams are pressed and the<br />

orientation of the strips in the fragmented block; i.e., left to right or right to<br />

left.<br />

When piecing this quilt the bias of the quilt fabric will be sewn on, it is<br />

important to avoid stretching the fabric during the piecing process. To<br />

avoid stretching the fabric when machine piecing use a walking foot. If a<br />

walking foot is unavailable, block the fabric, or, have the bias fabric on the<br />

bottom of the two <strong>fabrics</strong> (against the feed dogs) to minimize stretching<br />

the fabric.<br />

Constructing the Strip Sets<br />

1. From the 2 3 /4" strips cut <strong>from</strong><br />

<strong>fabrics</strong> 1-15, construct three<br />

individual strip sets for each<br />

Unit. See Figure #1.<br />

PIECING NOTE:<br />

The arrows show the direction<br />

to press the seams when<br />

constructing the strip sets.<br />

Unit 1:<br />

Fabric 1<br />

Fabric 2<br />

Fabric 3<br />

Unit 1(r):<br />

Fabric 1<br />

Fabric 2<br />

Fabric 3<br />

Unit 2:<br />

Fabric 6<br />

Fabric 7<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Unit 2(r):<br />

Fabric 6<br />

Fabric 7<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Unit 3:<br />

Fabric 11<br />

Fabric 12<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Unit 3(r):<br />

Fabric 11<br />

Fabric 12<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Fabric 2<br />

Fabric 3<br />

Fabric 4<br />

Fabric 2<br />

Fabric 3<br />

Fabric 4<br />

Fabric 7<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Fabric 9<br />

Fabric 7<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Fabric 9<br />

Fabric 12<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Fabric 14<br />

Fabric 12<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Fabric 14<br />

Figure #1<br />

Fabric 3<br />

Fabric 4<br />

Fabric 5<br />

Fabric 3<br />

3<br />

Fabric 4<br />

Fabric 5<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Fabric 9<br />

Fabric 10<br />

Fabric 8<br />

Fabric 9<br />

Fabric 10<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Fabric 14<br />

Fabric 15<br />

Fabric 13<br />

Fabric 14<br />

Fabric 15<br />

Making the Fragmented 45° Diamonds<br />

1. To make Units 1, 1(r), 2 and 2(r), cut each strip set into 45° diagonals<br />

at 3" increments. Cut 8 diagonals <strong>from</strong> each strip set. For Units 1 & 2,<br />

cut the diagonal to the right. For Units 1(r) & 2(r), cut the diagonal to<br />

the left. See below before cutting, ensure the strip set is in the proper<br />

order – lighter fabric on top of set and darker fabric on the bottom.<br />

Units 1 & 2:<br />

L<br />

Units 1(r) & 2(r):<br />

D D<br />

3" Wide<br />

to the right to the left<br />

3" Wide<br />

L<br />

NOTE:<br />

Cut all three<br />

strip sets for<br />

each unit as<br />

shown.<br />

2. After cutting the strip sets into individual strips, use Template G for the<br />

point trimmer and trim the two 45° angles. This allows for easier<br />

alignment when piecing the strip set together.<br />

Construct the 45° diamonds as shown in Figure #2.<br />

1<br />

5<br />

4<br />

Unit 1<br />

2<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

3<br />

3<br />

3<br />

3<br />

3<br />

2<br />

4<br />

2<br />

4<br />

Unit 1(r)<br />

1<br />

5<br />

Unit 2<br />

7<br />

Unit 2(r)<br />

Figure #2<br />

(For hand piecing, make eight units for each parallelogram shown in<br />

Figure #2. When pressing the seams follow the direction of the arrows in<br />

Figure # 2 for both hand and machine piecing.)<br />

8<br />

8<br />

9<br />

7<br />

7<br />

9<br />

6<br />

10<br />

8<br />

6<br />

10<br />

8 7<br />

Making the Fragmented 9-Patch Squares<br />

To make Units 3 and 3(r),<br />

Units 3 & 3(r):<br />

cut each strip set into<br />

2 3 /4" increments. Cut 8<br />

<strong>from</strong> each strip set.<br />

2 3 /4" Wide<br />

9<br />

9<br />

8<br />

8<br />

NOTE:<br />

Cut all three<br />

strip sets for<br />

each unit as<br />

shown.


Construct the 9-patch blocks as shown in Figure #3:<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

PIECING NOTE:<br />

Mark the seam allowance on the parallelograms and the squares with<br />

the 45°, 135° and the 90° angles on the Perfect Piecer. Do not sew<br />

through the seam allowance where the Y intersection meets within the<br />

construction of the Unit. For more information on constructing<br />

Y-seams, refer to pp.112–113 in Quiltmaking <strong>by</strong> Hand <strong>by</strong> <strong>Jinny</strong> <strong>Beyer</strong>.<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

Unit 3<br />

Unit 3(r)<br />

Figure #3:<br />

(For hand piecing, make eight units for each square shown in Figure #3.<br />

When pressing the seams follow the direction of the arrows in Figure # 3<br />

for both hand and machine piecing.<br />

Combining the Fragmented Units<br />

(Directions for hand piecing are the same.)<br />

Unit 3<br />

Unit 3(r)<br />

1. Combine the<br />

fragmented 15 14 13<br />

15 14 13<br />

5<br />

8<br />

parallelograms 14 13 12<br />

14 13 12<br />

4 4<br />

9 7<br />

of Unit 1 and 13 12 11<br />

13 12 11<br />

Unit 2(r) with<br />

3 3 3<br />

10 8 6<br />

8 9 10<br />

Unit 3 in a<br />

2 2<br />

5 4 3<br />

9 7<br />

Y-Seam as<br />

7 8 9<br />

4 3 2<br />

1<br />

8<br />

shown in Figure#4. 6 7 8<br />

3 2 1<br />

Make 8 – this becomes<br />

Unit #4. Do the same when Figure #4:<br />

Figure #5:<br />

combining unit 1(r) and Unit 2 with Unit 3(r) as shown in Figure #5.<br />

Make 8 – this becomes Unit #5.<br />

Cutting D, E <strong>from</strong> Toile Print Fabric and an F <strong>from</strong><br />

Border Print Fabric<br />

(Directions for hand piecing are the same.)<br />

1. Using Template D on point, center one of themes <strong>from</strong> the toile and fussy<br />

cut 4 squares 6 ¾” x 6 ¾”. Set aside to use in Constructing the Blocks.<br />

2. Using Template E on point, fussy cut 8 half squares (2 left, 2 right, 2 top &<br />

2 bottom half squares). Use the quilt pictured as a guide for exact<br />

placement for each piece.<br />

NOTE:<br />

l, r, t and b refer to the position on the quilt for Template E. Two E pieces<br />

will be at the left side, two will be on the right, two will be on the top, and<br />

two will be on the bottom of the quilt.<br />

3. Cut 32 pieces using Template F <strong>from</strong> the remaining narrow border print<br />

fabric. These pieces will border the toile prints cut <strong>from</strong> templates D &<br />

E. Mark the exact vertical center of plastic Template F and center on one<br />

of the two mirrored images in the narrow border stripe.<br />

NOTE:<br />

All F pieces must be centered on a mirror-imaged portion of the border<br />

print and cut identically in order for the mitered corners to align<br />

properly.<br />

4. Place the longest side of the template horizontally along a straight<br />

horizontal line in the narrow border - just outside the sewing line. This<br />

straight line makes a frame around the quilt block when pieced together.<br />

With the template plastic centered on the fabric, trace distinct patterns<br />

<strong>from</strong> the fabric onto the template. Make sure to alternate Template F as<br />

shown in Figure #7 in order to cut all 32 narrow border pieces<br />

<strong>from</strong> the remainder of the border print yardage. Cut 32 identical F<br />

pieces.<br />

2. Combine two Unit 4 pieces and two Unit 5 pieces as shown in<br />

Figure #6 to form an X-shaped section. Make 4–this becomes Unit # 6.<br />

4<br />

5<br />

Figure #7<br />

5<br />

4<br />

Constructing the Blocks<br />

Use the D pieces cut previously to construct the blocks. Piece together four<br />

mirror image F pieces to one D piece in four Y-seams as shown in Figure<br />

#8. Make 4 - this becomes Unit 8. Piece together two F pieces to one E<br />

piece in a Y-seam as shown in Figure #9. Make 8 - this becomes Unit 9.<br />

Figure #6:<br />

PIECING NOTE:<br />

Mark the seam allowance on the parallelograms and the squares with<br />

the 45°, 135° and the 90° angles on the Perfect Piecer. Do not sew<br />

through the seam allowance where the Y intersection will meet with a<br />

bordered toile print. See arrows in Figure 6.<br />

F<br />

F<br />

D<br />

F<br />

F<br />

Figure #8<br />

F<br />

E F<br />

Figure #9


Assembling the Quilt<br />

(Directions for hand piecing are the same.)<br />

1.Combine the four unit 6 pieces, two across and two down as shown in<br />

Figure #10. Do not sew through the seam allowances where the Unit 8<br />

pieces will be inset.<br />

2. Inset the four Unit 8 pieces into the center of the quilt top. Inset the<br />

eight Unit 9 pieces into the outer edges to complete the pieced portion<br />

of the quilt top.<br />

<strong>Jinny</strong>'s Method for Framing a Square Quilt with a<br />

Border Print<br />

9<br />

9<br />

9 9<br />

Figure #10<br />

(Directions for hand piecing are the same.)<br />

9<br />

8<br />

8 8<br />

8<br />

9<br />

9<br />

9<br />

1.Place one narrow (inner) border strip cut <strong>from</strong> the border print fabric<br />

across the middle of the quilt, centering a mirror-imaged motif <strong>from</strong> the<br />

narrow border at the exact center of the quilt. Use a right-angle, 45°<br />

triangle to mark the miter along one end of the strip, positioning triangle<br />

at the edge of the quilt as indicated in Figure #11 (see arrow). Cutting<br />

where the arrow indicates, at the exact edge of the quilt top, allows for<br />

the seam allowance. Mark, then cut the miter.<br />

2. Carefully pick up the mitered edge of the border strip and bring it over<br />

to the other end of the border strip at the opposite side of the quilt,<br />

making sure that the design matches. (If you have centered a motif <strong>from</strong><br />

the border print in the middle of the quilt the designs should match at<br />

the edges.) Cut the second miter.<br />

3. Using the first mitered strip as a pattern, place it on the remaining three<br />

narrow border strips, matching the design exactly. Cut three more<br />

identical strips.<br />

4. Sew the inner borders to the edges of the quilt. Begin <strong>by</strong> pinning the<br />

mid-point of one of the border pieces to the middle of one of the edges<br />

of the quilt. Pin the corners next then ease in any fullness, pinning<br />

carefully all along the edge( the edge of the quilt is usually a little wider<br />

than the center, because of bias edges or seams). Sew all four inner<br />

border strips to the quilt, stopping short of the 1 /4" seam allowance.<br />

Sew the miters last into a Y-seam.<br />

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for middle and outer borders.<br />

6. Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste. Quilt bind and finish as<br />

desired.<br />

Figure #11


Templates (Shown at 100%, DO NOT scale when printing)<br />

D<br />

(full<br />

size square on-point)<br />

Cut 4<br />

3 or<br />

3r<br />

Point<br />

Trimmer<br />

Template G<br />

(Flip for Reverse)<br />

0 1" 2" 3"<br />

Use this 3" scale to insure the accuracy of your printout.


top<br />

Half square, on-point: 90° angle points into the interior of the quilt. Long side is<br />

bottom<br />

left<br />

E<br />

right<br />

the outer part of the quilt, abutting the small border<br />

Cut 2 of each<br />

F<br />

Cut<br />

A & B<br />

32<br />

A(r) & B(r)

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