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I cut the four trim pieces with a cheap ($10)<br />

hand miter saw from Sears to form neat mitered<br />

corners (a miter joint is where two ends cut at 45°<br />

angles are glued together to make a 90° joint).<br />

I glued and clamped the four trim pieces to the<br />

square dial board and let them cure. Because the<br />

wood I used for the dial board was so thick, I had<br />

to rout out a hole to insert the movement. However,<br />

if you use a half inch piece of plywood with an oak<br />

face, you can skip that part by simply making the<br />

trim pieces hang over the back of the dial board to<br />

allow the movement to be covered.<br />

Once the pieces were set, I spray painted the<br />

surface with a black lacquer finish. After inserting<br />

the movement and attaching the dial to the dial<br />

board, I marked the three holes to be drilled to<br />

set the glass and bezel. With the holes drilled I<br />

attached the hands and then set the bezel in place.<br />

All done!<br />

The three piece desk clock in furniture clamps.<br />

These clamps are overkill, you can use much<br />

smaller (and cheaper) clamps for a project<br />

this small. Rout a space on the back of the dial<br />

board on the 24 hour clock to insert the special<br />

quartz 24 hour movement. (Courtesy Author)<br />

to apply only a clear varnish finish. Apply three<br />

coats of a satin varnish sanding lightly between<br />

coats with 220 or higher grit wood sanding paper.<br />

If you want a bolder look, use a spray paint of any<br />

color. Apply as directed on the can. Three coats are<br />

usually sufficient to cover the grain of the wood.<br />

Hint: Poplar doesn’t stain as well as oak or maple<br />

but it takes paint very nicely.<br />

Once the wood is finished, simply insert the<br />

movement, add the appropriate battery and set it<br />

according to the time signal from WWV. Because<br />

this clock is completely finished, you can even<br />

make this a one piece wood clock by simply taking<br />

one thick piece of decorative wood – driftwood<br />

for example – and simply drill the correct size<br />

hole and insert the works. It’s the ten minute clock<br />

project!<br />

❖ The Analog 24 Hour Radio<br />

Clock<br />

This is a clock with a real “retro” look. It<br />

harks back to a time of Hammerlund, Hallicrafters,<br />

and Collins radio gear with their analog dials and<br />

glowing tubes. I made this clock out of leftover<br />

oak scraps from another clock project. It’s made<br />

of only five pieces of wood, all glued and clamped<br />

together. A space on the back is routed out for the<br />

clockworks, the dial is glued to the wood and the<br />

glass bezel is simply a pressure fit into three small<br />

guide holes in the clock dial board. Here’s how it’s<br />

done:<br />

For this clock I used the Klockit 24 hour<br />

quartz movement (stock #34089 comes with 6-1/2”<br />

dial and hands) I also ordered the #27032 7-1/16”<br />

friction fit glass & bezel.<br />

For the dial board I cut a piece of oak 7-3/4”<br />

square. I made the trim pieces by routing a design<br />

along the edge of a piece of scrap oak. Again, this is<br />

just to add a finished look. You can buy this trim in<br />

six foot lengths with a variety of decorative designs<br />

already formed into the wood.<br />

Special 24 hour quartz movement from Klockit.<br />

Order the 6-1/2” version with dial and hands<br />

for just under $10. (Courtsey Klockit)<br />

❖ The Atomic Clock in<br />

Traditional Wood Case<br />

This last clock requires only a table saw and<br />

a router to build. Made of only 12 pieces of wood,<br />

I designed this clock based on a traditional Shaker<br />

style. The basic case of the clock is only five pieces:<br />

a top, a bottom, two side pieces, and the back. The<br />

front is simply a four-piece wooden frame around<br />

a piece of glass. The remaining pieces are just trim<br />

pieces to finish the look. I made this clock out of<br />

native cherry, but you can buy the 1/2” finished oak<br />

pieces at <strong>Low</strong>e’s or other home builder supply.<br />

The last piece is the dial board, to which the<br />

decorative dial is affixed. Try to avoid using a metal<br />

dial when outfitting your clock with an atomic<br />

clockworks as it will act as a shield and inhibit<br />

reception. The dial I used is aluminum and I found<br />

that it was difficult to find a place in the house where<br />

the clock had good reception. A styrene or paper<br />

stock dial eliminates that problem. Increased power<br />

at the WWVB 60 Hz transmitter has also greatly<br />

improved reception in these clocks. Order different<br />

models according to the thickness of the dial board<br />

you are using. For example, I used the atomic clock<br />

movement from Klockit model #10143 which is for<br />

1/4” dial boards.<br />

The size of this clock is determined by the<br />

Case for the Shaker style atomic clock is just 5<br />

pieces glued together. Facing edges of the top<br />

and bottom are routed for a traditional look.<br />

(Courtesy Author)<br />

face you choose to use. I chose the decorative floral<br />

face from Clockparts.com as a change of pace from<br />

the traditional Shaker face with Roman numerals<br />

which I usually use with this design. That made<br />

this clock considerably smaller than similar ones<br />

with larger faces.<br />

Again, following the sketch I had made<br />

regarding overall dimensions, I first made the<br />

case and attached the dial board (made from<br />

1/4” plywood as is the back). Since the wood<br />

is cherry, I had only to apply several coats of<br />

clear satin varnish to bring out the great cherry<br />

color and grain. When I made the door, I painted<br />

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January 2005 MONITORING TIMES 67

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