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I cut the four trim pieces with a cheap ($10)<br />
hand miter saw from Sears to form neat mitered<br />
corners (a miter joint is where two ends cut at 45°<br />
angles are glued together to make a 90° joint).<br />
I glued and clamped the four trim pieces to the<br />
square dial board and let them cure. Because the<br />
wood I used for the dial board was so thick, I had<br />
to rout out a hole to insert the movement. However,<br />
if you use a half inch piece of plywood with an oak<br />
face, you can skip that part by simply making the<br />
trim pieces hang over the back of the dial board to<br />
allow the movement to be covered.<br />
Once the pieces were set, I spray painted the<br />
surface with a black lacquer finish. After inserting<br />
the movement and attaching the dial to the dial<br />
board, I marked the three holes to be drilled to<br />
set the glass and bezel. With the holes drilled I<br />
attached the hands and then set the bezel in place.<br />
All done!<br />
The three piece desk clock in furniture clamps.<br />
These clamps are overkill, you can use much<br />
smaller (and cheaper) clamps for a project<br />
this small. Rout a space on the back of the dial<br />
board on the 24 hour clock to insert the special<br />
quartz 24 hour movement. (Courtesy Author)<br />
to apply only a clear varnish finish. Apply three<br />
coats of a satin varnish sanding lightly between<br />
coats with 220 or higher grit wood sanding paper.<br />
If you want a bolder look, use a spray paint of any<br />
color. Apply as directed on the can. Three coats are<br />
usually sufficient to cover the grain of the wood.<br />
Hint: Poplar doesn’t stain as well as oak or maple<br />
but it takes paint very nicely.<br />
Once the wood is finished, simply insert the<br />
movement, add the appropriate battery and set it<br />
according to the time signal from WWV. Because<br />
this clock is completely finished, you can even<br />
make this a one piece wood clock by simply taking<br />
one thick piece of decorative wood – driftwood<br />
for example – and simply drill the correct size<br />
hole and insert the works. It’s the ten minute clock<br />
project!<br />
❖ The Analog 24 Hour Radio<br />
Clock<br />
This is a clock with a real “retro” look. It<br />
harks back to a time of Hammerlund, Hallicrafters,<br />
and Collins radio gear with their analog dials and<br />
glowing tubes. I made this clock out of leftover<br />
oak scraps from another clock project. It’s made<br />
of only five pieces of wood, all glued and clamped<br />
together. A space on the back is routed out for the<br />
clockworks, the dial is glued to the wood and the<br />
glass bezel is simply a pressure fit into three small<br />
guide holes in the clock dial board. Here’s how it’s<br />
done:<br />
For this clock I used the Klockit 24 hour<br />
quartz movement (stock #34089 comes with 6-1/2”<br />
dial and hands) I also ordered the #27032 7-1/16”<br />
friction fit glass & bezel.<br />
For the dial board I cut a piece of oak 7-3/4”<br />
square. I made the trim pieces by routing a design<br />
along the edge of a piece of scrap oak. Again, this is<br />
just to add a finished look. You can buy this trim in<br />
six foot lengths with a variety of decorative designs<br />
already formed into the wood.<br />
Special 24 hour quartz movement from Klockit.<br />
Order the 6-1/2” version with dial and hands<br />
for just under $10. (Courtsey Klockit)<br />
❖ The Atomic Clock in<br />
Traditional Wood Case<br />
This last clock requires only a table saw and<br />
a router to build. Made of only 12 pieces of wood,<br />
I designed this clock based on a traditional Shaker<br />
style. The basic case of the clock is only five pieces:<br />
a top, a bottom, two side pieces, and the back. The<br />
front is simply a four-piece wooden frame around<br />
a piece of glass. The remaining pieces are just trim<br />
pieces to finish the look. I made this clock out of<br />
native cherry, but you can buy the 1/2” finished oak<br />
pieces at <strong>Low</strong>e’s or other home builder supply.<br />
The last piece is the dial board, to which the<br />
decorative dial is affixed. Try to avoid using a metal<br />
dial when outfitting your clock with an atomic<br />
clockworks as it will act as a shield and inhibit<br />
reception. The dial I used is aluminum and I found<br />
that it was difficult to find a place in the house where<br />
the clock had good reception. A styrene or paper<br />
stock dial eliminates that problem. Increased power<br />
at the WWVB 60 Hz transmitter has also greatly<br />
improved reception in these clocks. Order different<br />
models according to the thickness of the dial board<br />
you are using. For example, I used the atomic clock<br />
movement from Klockit model #10143 which is for<br />
1/4” dial boards.<br />
The size of this clock is determined by the<br />
Case for the Shaker style atomic clock is just 5<br />
pieces glued together. Facing edges of the top<br />
and bottom are routed for a traditional look.<br />
(Courtesy Author)<br />
face you choose to use. I chose the decorative floral<br />
face from Clockparts.com as a change of pace from<br />
the traditional Shaker face with Roman numerals<br />
which I usually use with this design. That made<br />
this clock considerably smaller than similar ones<br />
with larger faces.<br />
Again, following the sketch I had made<br />
regarding overall dimensions, I first made the<br />
case and attached the dial board (made from<br />
1/4” plywood as is the back). Since the wood<br />
is cherry, I had only to apply several coats of<br />
clear satin varnish to bring out the great cherry<br />
color and grain. When I made the door, I painted<br />
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January 2005 MONITORING TIMES 67