Yorkshire's First Railway Station A commemorative booklet

Yorkshire’s First Railway Station
A commemorative booklet
Marking the 175 th anniversary
of the opening of Selby station. 1
22 nd September 1834.

Why a Rail Road?
West Yorkshire wool and coal traders of the 1820s had a problem.
Turnpike roads were a mass of mud.
It could take a week to get wool from the West Riding to the coast.
The waterways were no better either.
Tides on the river were unpredictable – one week floods, the next
ships are stuck on the shallows.
To use the Aire and Calder canal was expensive and the Selby Canal
was too small. In 1826, a new canal link was made to Ferrybridge, and
the port of Goole was being developed, but basically, transport of
goods was in the hands of monopolies who could charge what they
wanted.
So, this was the situation:
Leeds was the capital of the clothing industry, and trade with Europe
was increasing, but access to East Coast ports was unsatisfactory.
The problem was not only with cloth merchants. Coal mine owners
such as the Gott and Gascoigne families in and around Garforth had
valuable materials to transport. Industry needed cheap coal. Journeys
by canal could involve ten or more transfers between barges, which
pushed up price and reduced quality.
Wealthy landlords had agricultural produce to transfer, and quarry
owners needed to get their stone to market. Many quarries were miles
from the nearest canal, adding to the problem.
The Miners’ Arms
Two pubs, 2 still trading in Garforth, remind us why the Leeds and Selby was
built. Miners hewed coal for industrialists such as the Gascoigne family.

All in all, there was a pent-up demand for an efficient way to
move a vast range of produce. Liverpool and Manchester had a new
railway, meaning the Lancastrians could transport their goods quicker
and cheaper. A trade War of the Roses was brewing and Yorkshire
needed a rail road to make the fight fair. The rail road would release
all the pressure – eventually.
The coming of the Rail Road
Many efforts had been made to improve communications between
Leeds and Selby. A canal link had been surveyed in 1769, and the
Selby Canal between Selby and Haddlesey was opened in 1778, which
solved some problems. The journey by river and canal was 30 miles as
opposed to 20 by road, but the waterway was much more reliable.
When the Aire and Calder canal opened to Goole in 1826, trade
slipped away from Selby. Something had to be done!
In 1821, a rail road had been suggested, and famous engineer George
Stephenson surveyed a route in 1825. However this used the old
technology of horses and ropes. The success of the Middleton Railway
in Leeds showed steam engines were the way forward.
James Walker was asked to survey a route. In 1829 his report was
published. It had an astonishing proposal. The railway would have a
half-mile tunnel, and steam engines would pull loads through it!
The route was just over 19 miles long and
was to end in a “commodious station at Selby”
with six platforms, two for passengers and
the rest for goods. Goods were always more
important than passengers.
Selby
Old Station
Sept. 2009
Inside Selby Old
station c 1950s.
Courtesy R. Moody
Passengers and goods had to cross
Ousegate for packet boats to travel to
Hull or York. So, to some extent
3
early train times depended
on tides on the River Ouse.

Construction of the line
Engineering in the 1830’s was done by hand. The men who did it
were ‘navvies’, short for ‘navigators’, harking back to the days of
canal building.
The navvies had to be tough. They were expected to swing a pick and
shovel and to barrow rock and soil for ten hours a day. In this time, a
good navvy would shift 15 tons. Life and limb was risked in blasting
tunnels and building bridges.
Plenty of food was available for those who signed up. Four pounds of
beef and a gallon of ale a day was a typical navvies’ diet.
Navvies worked hard and they drank hard. "Going on a Randy" was
slang for going on a drinking spree that could last several days.
Hangovers halted track laying, and harvest time offered easier work
in the fields, so progress was also slower in August.
Living conditions were awful. Navvies lived in shanty towns, in huts
beside the route. Eight men to a hut, with eight sets of clothes to dry
after a day’s sweat and mud. No wonder they said “The best you’ll
ever be is damp”.
Pay was monthly – but everything came through the company store,
so the navvies never saw cash – just a credit bill at the Tommy, or
company, shop. The company always seemed to see to it that you
were owing at the end of the month – so you’d always have to work
another month to catch up. Of course there was an endless supply of
beer.
It took around three years to build the 19-mile long line, including the
famous tunnel. Most of the line was built at a fairly gentle gradient of
1 in 137, but this was only achieved by creating 6 miles of cuttings
and embankments, 4
by barrowing soil and rock from one part of the
line to another.

Richmond Hill, on the outskirts of Leeds was too high for a cutting, so
a tunnel was needed. As designed by James Walker it was almost half a
mile long.
Rock had to be blasted out using gunpowder, as dynamite had yet to
be invented. Just like bonfire night, the fuse would often go out – but if
you went back to check and the fuse blew, you’d be buried under tons
of rock. Many men lost their lives. In 1832, the driving of the line was
more important than health and safety.
The tunnel was a thing of wonder to people in 1834, and many thought
the darkness impenetrable. The Mechanics Magazine of 1835 describes
the horrid experience:
…As we entered the tunnel…. ”We were immediately enveloped in total
darkness and every one of the coaches filled with smoke to a most annoying
degree. Though we were but a few minutes going through such was the
nuisance that we thought it was an hour”
The railway company painted the inside of the tunnel with whitewash
and used copper reflectors to try to relieve the gloom.
The tunnel was widened and shortened in 1894.
The effect on passengers of going through the tunnel was described in
Parson’s “A Traveller’s companion” of 1835.
“The change produced by transit through this tunnel is extraordinary, and as
pleasing as it is extraordinary. The traveller leaves behind him a region where
the smoke of countless factories pollutes the atmosphere…He enters upon a
scene where no such contamination affects his organs, where the whole
population is agricultural and where rural tranquillity and peace are never
invaded and destroyed”
Nowadays this is the area of Neville Hill depot.
5

A 2009 Transpennine Express train passing under the 1830s
“Wonder of the new industrial age” at Garforth
Beyond Richmond Hill, the major structures were stone bridges. An
arch bridge crosses what is now Selby Road, and was described in
1834 as “an astonishing display of industry and art”, and a further angled
bridge at Garforth was proclaimed “a wonder of the new industrial age”.
The building of the line attracted foreign visitors too, and the cuttings
around Micklefield Station were described by a French engineer as
“superior to any other I have seen in England”.
After Micklefield, the terrain was a good deal gentler and construction
of the line into Selby that much easier to accomplish.
However, the line did suffer subsidence as it crossed old mine
workings, a problem that returned with the Selby coal field in 1984.
Once the line was complete, canal owners reduced their charges in a
vain effort to regain goods traffic.
6

The first train arrives
The 22 nd of September 1834 was seen as a very important day indeed. A
few trial runs had been carried out prior to this over part of the line, but
this was the day for the first complete run. The date was also chosen to
allow music fans to attend a festival in Hull.
The engine ‘Nelson’ was attached to nine carriages, containing 156
passengers. Three of the carriages were painted yellow and were
enclosed, like stage coaches. They were called “Juno”, “Diana” and
“Vesta”. These were for first class passengers. The other six were open
to the air. Nowadays we would call them cattle trucks!
This adaptation of the “Leeds Mercury” story tells the day’s events
“At first the journey was extremely slow. The first two miles took 40 minutes
to be covered. Spectators began to jest and ridicule,. Merry derision came from
the crowd…some passengers got off and pretended to push the carriages. After
an hour and three quarters, “Nelson” came to a halt, having covered just 4
miles.
One of the trucks was removed, and “Nelson” tried again, to much better
effect.
Garforth was reached comfortably, but a stop had to be made for water. Five
minutes later, off again down the slope to Selby. Speeds as rapid as 20 mph
were reached. The final 16 miles were covered in just over the hour.
Arrival in Selby was in perfect safety just before 9 am. A great number of
persons greeted the train with loud cheers and a small cannon was fired. Those
who wished could catch the boat for Hull.
Nelson had some running repairs and left for Leeds at 11:10. The journey back
was achieved in just over the hour, averaging 16mph and the train was
welcomed back to Leeds by a crowd in excess of 30000.
The conclusion was
‘The day was beautiful, passengers were delighted and the whole affair 7
resounded to the credit of the company”

Journeys in the early days
Once the service had settled down, trains regularly left Leeds for
Selby at 6am to connect with packet boats for Hull and York. Stage
coaches and packet boats altered their timings to meet up with the
train.
For instance, a carriage ran from Kirkgate to catch the train at Marsh
Lane in Leeds.
The 5 am “Railway” stagecoach from Knaresborough had seven
calling points before making the connection at Micklefield.
Travellers were tough back then! A cheap single from Knaresboro’ to
Hull was 6/6 (33p).
The return was early in the afternoon. Journey time was around 75
minutes.
In the first week of operation, about 1500 passengers were carried.
After a year or so, this had increased to 3500 passengers a week which
is ten times the number of people who had used the coach on the
roads.
Prices paid depended on how far you went. Up to five miles, it was
sixpence (2.5p). Between 5 and 10 miles was a shilling (5p). The Leeds
to Selby trip, second class, was 2 shillings (10p). It was an extra
shilling for the boat to Hull. For comparison, an agricultural workers
wage was about 10/- (50p) per week.
Tickets were purchased in the Superintendent’s house next to the
railway station.
Stations were at Hambleton, Milford, Micklefield, Garforth and Cross
Gates. The journey ended at Marsh Lane – about a mile short of the
current
8
Leeds terminus.
In the first year, 100913 passengers were carried, paying £11947.

Early problems
There were complaints and concerns about the new mechanical
monsters. To fight these criticisms, the Act of Parliament that
authorized the line stated “The furnaces of every steam engine…every
locomotive or movable engine will be constructed on such a principal as to
consume its own smoke…” Amazingly, MPs believed smoke-eating was
possible, and passed the Act.
Noise pollution problems also existed. Early reports suggest that the
first locos made “sounds like the groans of a large elephant”
Elephantine or not, the passage of the trains was such to cause
commotion in animals. In 1857 the “Yorkshire Gazette” reports an
unfortunate Mr Wood from Drax was driving his gig when the horse
was alarmed at the sight of the steam engine. It bolted towards the
park wall. A passer-by had to leap over the wall to avoid being run
down and Mr Wood and his startled passenger were ejected onto the
street.
A few years later, a similar mishap befell a Mr Holdsworth.
Unfortunately his carriage contained a piano. As the horse bolted the
unwilling pianist was dragged “a considerable distance” leaving him
severely black and blue rather than ebony and ivory.
Problems could also be caused by lack of locomotive power. Several
reports exist of problems on the inclined parts of the line, however
gentle the gradient. In one case, the train shuddered to a halt between
Milford and Micklefield with “spurting and groaning noises coming from
the engine”.
Whilst today, we might groan, complain about the railways and wait
for a replacement bus, travellers back then were more resilient.
Gentlemen were asked “please leave your seats to lighten the loads” and to
help push the train. This was done “with great alacrity” before jumping 9
back aboard to coast into Leeds.

Onwards to Hull ?
Mind you, whilst the trip from Leeds to Selby was now much smoother,
it was still quite an adventure to get to Hull!
The river journey was 43 miles, and the Ouse and Aire have many
narrow bends, areas of shallow water and tricky tides.
A report of 1835 in Head’s “Home Tours” described the antics that
passengers had to undergo.
“Whenever, in a course, gruff voice, the Captain ordered ’Rowl her’ the crowd,
like sheep at the barking of a dog, walked across the deck, treading on one
another’s heels, with much inconvenience.
At the same time they hailed a rope, previously sent on shore, and made it fast
to a post or a tree until the vessel disengaged from her soft bed. It could then
float again in the river channel”
An average trip took around 4 hours. Despite this, by 1838, the Leeds
and Selby railway was advertising one of the first rail excursions in the
world “To Hull and back – in a day!”
These river voyages couldn’t last. Rail was far more efficient, so it was
no surprise when the railway was extended to Hull in July 1840. Selby
became just a half-way halt on the railway between Leeds and Hull. A
new swing 10 bridge was opened over the river, and the current
passenger station was built.

The end of the independent Leeds to Selby line
Just three months later, the Leeds to Selby was involved in railway
politics. George Hudson, the York-based ‘Railway King’ negotiated a
lease on the line. This cost him £17000 per year. He soon got this back
however, as no sooner had he got the lease than he shut the line to
passengers in November 1840! The idea was to force everyone to use
the lines that Hudson owned, to maximize his profits.
By 1841, the original station had its passenger entrances onto Ousegate
bricked up. There is still a lintel in place on the exterior wall showing
this date. This did not mean that the old station had no further use.
Indeed it became a goods warehouse, and was well used to store the
huge volume of goods that still travelled through Selby by rail, river,
canal and road.
But Hudson had other ideas. He purchased the line outright in 1844.
Goods still used the services, but Hudson then put a stop to that when
he closed the line completely in July 1848!
The situation was only resolved when Hudson went bust in 1850.
Freight and then passenger services were reintroduced over the line in
the course of the next 4 months.
After this turbulent start, the Leeds to Selby line settled down to a quiet
existence. The York and North Midland Railway, which was Hudson’s
company, became part of the North Eastern Railway in 1854. This then
became part of the London and North Eastern Railway in 1923, then
British Railways in 1948.
Following privatization, the line’s franchise is worked by Northern
Rail, and TransPennine Express. Hull Trains also use the line as an
Open Access operator.
The frequency and speed of services along the line greatly exceed
James Walker’s original plans, but he might be intrigued by how 11 little
freight now passes between Leeds and Selby by rail.

A modern journey from Leeds to Selby
Today’s journey starts at the main Leeds station, built in 1869. Pass
the Parish Church on the right on an embankment paved with
gravestones. Church authorities insisted on this ostensibly to avoid
disturbing graves.
As the cement terminal is passed on the left, so the train also passes
the Marsh Lane site of the original station for the Leeds to Selby line.
This closed in 1958, but George Hudson’s actions over a century
before had greatly reduced its importance by concentrating all
services on stations in central Leeds.
Crossing over the skew bridge referred to in glowing terms in 1834,
Cross Gates station is reached. Beyond this station was Vickers
armaments factory, once “Barnbows Plant”, closed in the 1990s.
The train is now approaching Garforth, and the area that was full of
the coal mines whose produce was a vital factor in the planning and
building of the line. Garforth station is little changed and is typical of
the mid 19 th century station buildings of the North Eastern Railway,
with pointed roofs, a veranda and gable ends facing the platform.
12
Garforth Station 2009

Travelling past Garforth, as the line eases left, modern factory units
mark where the branch to Kippax and Castleford – and more coal –
branched off on the right, until the 1980s.
Whilst that line has been abandoned as freight lost importance, a sign
that passengers became more significant is East Garforth station,
opened in May 1987. The contrast with Garforth could hardly be more
marked, as the newcomer has the bare minimum in terms of shelters
and platforms, but it fulfils a vital role for hundreds of commuters.
More former coal fields are on the right. The train then passes under
the A656, and past a little – used industrial estate on the site of
Peckfield Colliery. History is not static and whilst Micklefield is now
just a commuter halt, exciting plans exist for the future of the Leeds to
Selby line here. These include a new “turnback” facility to increase
peak capacity to and from Leeds, a park and ride station called East
Leeds Parkway, where long distance services may call, a fifth
TransPennine Express each hour and electrification to Selby.
The 1834 arch bridge at Micklefield
Whatever the provision, the rails still run
on a fine 1834 bridge over the Great North
Road. Here, the 5am coach from
Knaresboro’ deposited its weary
passengers. Goods came to the station by
this route, and were lifted up to the line
from a rail building on the road below.
Just beyond the platform end
at Micklefield, the line to York
leaves to the left, but the Selby
train forges straight ahead, passing
under the new Great North Road,
the A1(M). The cuttings are those
which attracted the French
enthusiasm, mentioned earlier.
“A marvellous cutting”
13

South Milford
2009 2009
Moving beyond West
Yorkshire, the next station is
South Milford. Again, all
trace of 19 th century building
has gone, and two platforms
and simple shelters are all
that are present.
The line in this area is mainly level, and the locomotives of the 1830s
would have accelerated to around 20 mph on these stretches. Beyond
Milford, the line passes over what was Hudson’s York and North
Midlands Railway scene of much controversy over the years.
Here, Hudson’s control closed the Leeds to Selby.
Just beyond is Gascoigne Wood. In the early 1900s,
migrants travelled between Hull and Liverpool as
part of their journey from Russia to the USA. Their
trains had no toilets, so the station here acted as a
welcome “relief stop”! Gascoigne Wood goods
yard also dealt with Selby coalfield’s output,
closing in 2004. The derelict site was proposed as a
location for West Yorkshire’s “eco town”.
Gascoigne Wood
Signal box 2009
The line then crosses the newest stretch of East Coast Main Line, at
the site of Hambleton Station, closed in 1959. The new ECML opened
in 1983 to avoid possible subsidence from Selby coalfield workings,
and speed restrictions on severe curves north of Selby.
The level crossing on the A63 is at Thorpe Willoughby. Selby Canal is
to the right, over which a line went to Goole until the 1950s.
The train now winds slowly round sharp corners to enter Selby. The
original station is beyond the current running lines. From Platform 3,
the white gable ends of the original station are visible, with the Viking
Shipping 14 Services logo. Six tracks ran in, four for freight, two for
passengers. All links were removed in the 1980s.

What is visible of the 1834 station today?
The running lines and old station building are now private property
and part of the busy working environment of Viking Shipping. There is
therefore no public access. To see how the lines went into the station,
go onto the road overbridge and look back towards the station. The
triangular pediments mark the top of the train sheds, with modern
buildings on what were the goods areas in front.
Much of the station’s exterior can be investigated from Ousegate.
Turn right out of the station, right at the end and under the current
lines. On your right is the station master’s house, with rail-inspired air
bricks. This is where tickets were purchased. Beyond that are the
massive blue doors that would open for access to the rail-transported
goods. Take a few seconds to marvel at the massive timbers, mighty
wheels, handles and pulleys that are still in place. High on the central
wall is the 1841 lintel marking the development of the new station.
In 1834, if you wished to continue your journey, you would now have
to cross Ousegate to one of the staithes or jetties.
These are still in place today, but rapidly becoming derelict, and are
not available for public inspection. On the town side of the rail bridge
one of the jetties still has a gate post and pulley that seem to show rail
ancestry.
However, you can still see how passengers would have embarked onto
those packet boats. Walk up Ousegate, cross the river at the road
bridge and walk back on the far bank.
15

Just before the current rail bridge, look over the flood wall. A cinder
track shows the line of the original Selby to Hull 1840 extension. Go
under the rail bridge and look across the river through the rampant
vegetation and you will see the remnants of a jetty and a ladder that
could once have been used. This is all that remains of the
embarkation points for boats to Hull or York.
Roof of train shed
Decaying jetty
With that view the investigation of Yorkshire’s first main line is
complete. In 1834, the “Leeds Times” described the arrival of the first
train in these words: “A great number of respectably attired persons …
loudly cheered the passengers and gave a hearty and exulting welcome to…
this delightful, improving and hospitable town”.
Whilst the cannon fire that greeted the first arrival is unlikely to be
repeated, do take some time now to enjoy the delights of what still is a
“delightful, improving and hospitable town”.
SELBY CIVIC SOCIETY
References
Terry Coleman : “The Railway Navvies”
METRO : “Yorkshire’s first main line” and quotations therein.
Edward Parsons 16 : “The Traveller’s Companion”
Patricia Scott : “The History of Selby”, and quotations therein
W.W. Tomlinson : “History of the North Eastern Railway”
Researched and published by Groundwork North Yorkshire September 2009. groundwork-northyorkshire.org.uk