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USER MANUAL SWAN Cycle III version 40.72A

USER MANUAL SWAN Cycle III version 40.72A

USER MANUAL SWAN Cycle III version 40.72A

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Definitions of variables 91<br />

RPER<br />

command. If p = 1 (the default value) PER is identical to TM01 and<br />

if p = 0, PER = TMM10.<br />

Average relative period (in s), defined as<br />

∫ ∫ σ<br />

RT m,p−1,p = 2π<br />

p−1 E(σ,θ)dσdθ<br />

∫ ∫ σ p E(σ,θ)dσdθ<br />

FSPR<br />

Here, if p = 1, RPER=RTM01 and if p = 0, RPER=RTMM10.<br />

The normalized frequency width of the spectrum (frequency spreading),<br />

as defined by Battjes and Van Vledder (1984):<br />

FSPR = |∫ ∞<br />

E(ω)e iωτ dω|<br />

0<br />

E tot<br />

, for τ = T m02<br />

DSPR<br />

The one-sided directional width of the spectrum (directional spreading<br />

or directional standard deviation,in o ), defined as<br />

DSPR 2 = ( 180<br />

π<br />

) 2 ∫ 2π<br />

0 (2 sin(θ−θ<br />

2 ))2 D(θ)dθ<br />

and computed as conventionally for pitch-and-roll buoy data<br />

(Kuik et al. (1988); this is the standard definition for WAVEC buoys<br />

integrated over all frequencies):<br />

⎛<br />

(∫ )<br />

(DSPR π<br />

√<br />

2 (∫ ) ]<br />

180 )2 = 2 ⎝1 − √[ ⎞ 2 sin<br />

∫ θE(σ,θ)dσdθ cos θE(σ,θ)dσdθ<br />

E(σ)dσ<br />

+ ∫ ⎠<br />

E(σ)dσ<br />

QP<br />

The peakedness of the wave spectrum, defined as<br />

∫ ∫ σE<br />

Q p = 2 ∫ ∫ 2 (σ,θ)dσdθ<br />

( E(σ,θ)dσdθ) 2<br />

MS<br />

This quantity represents the degree of randomness of the waves.<br />

A smaller value of Q p indicates a wider spectrum and thus<br />

increased the degree of randomness (e.g., shorter wave groups),<br />

whereas a larger value indicates a narrower spectrum and a more<br />

organised wave field (e.g., longer wave groups).<br />

As input to <strong>SWAN</strong> with the commands BOUNDPAR and BOUNDSPEC,<br />

the directional distribution of incident wave energy is given by<br />

D(θ) = A(cos θ) m for all frequencies. The parameter m<br />

is indicated as MS in <strong>SWAN</strong> and is not necessarily an integer number.<br />

This number is related to the one-sided directional spread of the waves<br />

(DSPR) as follows:

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