Sara Cox talks Radox, relaxation and rude ... - Beauty Magazine

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Soap BEAUTYMAGAZINE’SCOLUMNISWRITTENBYJOSEPHINEFAIRLEY, BEAUTYEXPERTANDCO-AUTHOROFTHEBEAUTYBIBLESERIES It’s a sad way to start, but: farewell Prescriptives. At the beginning of this month, this iconic brand (part of the Estée Lauder Companies empire) disappeared from marbled beauty halls around the world – along with its unique ‘Custom Blending’ service, which created individual shades blended on the counter especially for customers. Ironically, it was actually this innovative service that was almost certainly at the heart of the brand’s downfall. Not only was the Custom Blending technology expensive, but each Custom Blend consultation took lots of (expensive) time with a specially trained consultant. (Who couldn’t, while he or she was mixing up those pigments, be selling a bottle of the brand’s Calyx or a jar of Vibrant-C moisturiser, straight off the shelf.) As a Lauder executive (who shall remain anonymous) whispered to me at the time of the announcement, “Why do you think nobody else has copied Prescriptives…?” Because despite Custom Blending’s high price tag, the brand presumably lost money – and lots of it – every time they sent a happy customer away with her perfect skin-matched foundation or the lipgloss of her dreams. But still, it’s a sad day for the industry when a big name like this is laid to rest forever. HANGING TOUGH So: who else will be the losers – and winners – in 2010? I thought I’d get my crystal ball out for this month’s column. And though Prescriptives may be the highest-profile departure of the year, I doubt it will be the last. One particular online beauty site that I know of, for instance, staged a massive January sale to shift unsold stock across literally dozens of lines, before de-listing them permanently. (In general, small imported lines or those started by box What’s in store for 2010? brave beauty entrepreneurs, rather than ‘Big Names’.) What that underlines is that it’s super-competitive out there following an explosion of brands in the past five years – and not everyone can survive. While I doubt that we’ll see another failure on the Prescriptives scale, small and under-capitalised brands are going to struggle. Without publicity on the glossy beauty pages, it’s very hard for a new brand – or an existing niche brand – to get off the ground, let alone maintain their position. A couple of years ago, magazines were willing to write about teensy-but-innovative brands, so long as they had a web presence (although high-spending brands which take expensive advertising remained the major focus of beauty coverage). But now, beauty editors are insisting that products should be available in at least one store, as well as the web – so that their beauty-hound readers have the opportunity to touch, see and smell a product somewhere in the real world. The trouble is, buyers for retail outlets are being extra cautious. One way to pique their interest and get a product on shelf in the past was for a brand to list the exciting upcoming press coverage they were expecting – so what you’ve got is a cosmetic Catch-22. Because without the store presence, there’ll be no press coverage. And that, inevitably, is going to slow the pace of new skincare and make-up start-ups. SET FOR SUCCESS Not totally, though, thank heavens. Ruby & Millie, for instance, has just started an inexpensive range (exclusive to Boots) called Scarlett & Crimson. Allegedly it’s targeted at teens, but there are plenty of products for beauty-seekers of all ages to love – at pocket-money prices. On the ‘green’ front, there’s still a lot happening, too – mid-priced brands like Evolve (started by Laura Rudoe, who worked ‘ I’ve got my crystal ball out – and though Prescriptives may be the highest-profile departure from beauty halls this year, I doubt it will be the last. on the launch of Nude), and budget-priced Purity (exclusive to Superdrug) are making their mark. At the luxury end, meanwhile, there is at least one elegant, sophisticated natural range – at Amex Platinum card prices – set to be unveiled by summer. And that’s still an area of the beautysphere that’s wide open: there are precious few premium natural ranges for the eco-aware yummy mummy and her lunching lady friends with enough style to knock her La Prairie or Chanel off the bathroom shelf. But in general, with the exception of Prescriptives (sob, sob – because it was a brand I was hugely fond of), I think it’ll be the big guns generating much of the excitement for 2010. They have deep pockets and ‘war-chests’ built up during times of plenty, and have survived recessions before, in the knowledge that what goes down must eventually come up. At both the premium and the mass ends of the market, the launch calendars for 2010 look as packed as ever. Trust me: the big brands are like greyhounds at the starting gate, poised to power forward when this downturn swings into an upturn. Just watch this (beautiful) space. And I, for one, can’t wait… ‘ 8 b e a u t y m a g a z i n e f e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0
S T A R As awards season gets underway, British actress Dame Helen Mirren is back in the S T Y L E GET THE LOOK spotlight – and hotly tipped to grab herself another gong. The 64 year old Calendar Girl looks fabulous as she smoulders on the red carpet. Make sure your more mature customers look just as dazzling with the following products… Eyebrows: For an instantly younger look, suggest customers groom their eyebrows to enhance and open up their eyes. Clinique Instant Lift for Brows comprises a brow-filling pencil and a brow bone highlighter to create the illusion of a brighter, lifted brow. Hair: Tell customers to knock off the years by giving their hair a volume boost with John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Blow Dry Lotion. It works by lifting hair at the roots to cut down on blow-drying time and minimise heat damage, while also helping to restore strength and create long-lasting style and body. Face: Brown spots, fine lines and wrinkles all add up to older-looking skin – but there’s help on hand with Olay Definity Colour Enhancer. The 3-blend formula contains an anti-ageing serum, moisturiser with SPF 15 and a sheer foundation to help even out skin tone, smooth wrinkles, moisturise and protect skin. Teeth: Helen makes sure she can smile confidently at the camera by keeping her pegs looking naturally white. Beverly Hills Formula Total Protection contains a dual action antibacterial formula to help fight plaque, tooth decay and bad breath, whilst leaving teeth sparkling white! Hands: Hands are a ‘Prime Suspect’ for ageing skin, so to keep her mitts looking young, Helen could do worse than using Weleda Pomegranate Regenerating Hand Cream. It contains pomegranate seed oil, which is rich in antioxidants to encourage skin cell renewal, increasing skin elasticity and firmness. Body: Helen caused a stir 18 months ago when she was famously snapped sporting a red bikini and a super-toned figure. Suggest your customers keep their bods in great shape too by using a classic body moisturiser like Astral, which contains a blend of nourishing ingredients to keep mature skin hydrated and supple. Image: Jim Smeal/BEI/Rex Features b e a u t y m a g a z i n e f e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0 9
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Sara Cox talks Radox, relaxation and rude ... - Beauty Magazine

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