Touched by Indigo - Royal Ontario Museum

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by chrysanthemums lived to a grand old age. The prunus acquires its
symbolic longevity meaning because of a play on words. Its name,
me/', is homophonous with another word that means eyebrows (me/).
Since bushy eyebrows constitute a sign of old age, the image of a
prunus may be interpreted in this sense.
Although the turtle's carapace pattern is regular, a number of
devices have been employed to make the overall pattern interesting.
The framework, for instance, is made up of three rows of tiny dots for
the long sides of the octagons and two rows of dots for the adjoining
squares. This subtle variation in elements of
the design is also evident in the images of the
chrysanthemum flower heads. Close examination
reveals that there are actually several variant
forms. As well, the solid dark background colour
within each octagon is also relied on to set off
the delicate jewel-like flower heads as well as
the seeming diamond-studded frames.
THIS PAIR OF GIRL'S TROUSERS is constructed
for loose fitting. The wide waistband
enables the wearer to step into and out of the
trousers easily. When worn, the surplus cloth
of the waistband would be folded across the
body and secured in place with a cord. The
edge of the waistband above the tied cord would
then be folded down and tucked in to ensure that the cord does
not slide out of place.14 The use of a wide waistband and cord also
allows the wearer to adjust the trousers to her comfort at any time, for
example, before and after meals, and in poor or good health when
the waistline would likely change. Furthermore, this flexibility makes
it possible for a family of several children of close ages to share the
use of the trousers or, if their ages are far apart, to pass it down from
the elder to the younger.
The loose-fitting trouser legs and the ample crotch area are also
designed for comfort. These trousers would fit many different figures.
As well, the loose fit makes the trousers much more comfortable in
hot weather: the material does not adhere to perspiring legs and the
refreshing cool air from any breeze can be delightfully felt.
The material used for this pair of trousers is indigo-dyed cotton
tabby. It has a reserve design in white consisting of stenciled repeat
pattern of birds and butterflies interlacing on a ground filled with
endless knots and sprays of roses, bamboo, and chrysanthemums.
This array of motifs is embedded with three auspicious wishes. The
bird implies the idea of high official rank (jue) because one of its
general names, c/ue, is phonetically close enough to jue to permit it
to serve as a pun to evoke this connotation. The chrysanthemum and
endless knot are standard symbols of longevity. The butterfly (die),
too, is often enlisted as a visual pun for a word having the same
sound but meaning an elderly person having reached ninety years of
age (die). As for the rose and bamboo, together they summon to mind
the common saying yueyue ping'an (be safe and sound every month)
or siji ping'an (be safe and sound throughout the four seasons). These
similar interpretations are derived from the fact that the rose is called
yueji (literally meaning "months and seasons"), so named on account
of its long flowering characteristic. The bamboo, too, imparts the
meaning of safety because in ancient times people cut bamboo
stems in small sections and threw them into the fire to make cracking
noises, believing that by doing so, evil spirits would be scared away
and peace and safety would be guaranteed.
28. GIRL'S TROUSERS, Cotton, Qing dynasty, late 19th century, Zhejiang province,
Gift of Toronto Diocesan Anglican Church, Women, 971.166.45, L 83 cm x W.
106cm
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