Emulsifiers for Skin Care Applications

Emulsifiers for
Skin Care
Applications

Emulsifiers for Skin Care Applications
The majority of Skin Care products and a very significant percentage of toiletry products are emulsions. The basic components of
these formulations are emulsifiers, emollients and consistency enhancers. Additional value can be given to these formulations by
including active ingredients with specific dermatological effects. The selection of these components determines the success of a
formulation. The chosen emulsifier is not only crucial for the stability of an emulsion, but has also a large impact on consistency,
skin feel and care properties of a formulation. Emulsifiers have a wide range of applications in cosmetic products. They are used in
creams, lotions, sprays and foams that can be of the oil-in-water (O/W) or the water-in-oil (W/O) type.
This brochure will help facilitate the selection of the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsifier that is most suitable for the
desired application.
The HLB System
An emulsion is a dispersion of droplets of a non-miscible liquid in a continuous phase. The polar (hydrophilic) aqueous phase and
the non-polar (lipophilic) oil phase of an emulsion cannot be combined in a stable and homogenous way without a surface-active
additive.
Emulsifiers are interfacially active substances that reduce the interfacial tension between the oil and the water phase. The emulsifier
is adsorbed at the interface, giving a film between both phases, which prevents coalescence of neighbouring droplets. Due to its
amphiphilic structure, the polar part of the emulsifier has an affinity to the water phase and the non-polar part of the emulsifier to
the oil phase.
Emulsifiers can be defined according to their hydrophilic/lipophilic characteristics. In 1949 W.C. Griffin proposed the HLB
(Hydrophile – Lipophile Balance) system in which non-ionic surfactants have been classified on a scale from 0 to 20. Emulsifiers
with a strong lipophilic character have low HLB values between 3 to 8 and tend to form W/O emulsions. Emulsifiers of the HLB
range of 8 to 18 are hydrophilic and prove most suitable for O/W emulsions. HLB values from 12 to 18 are most favourable for
solubilization.
HLB Value
Use as
1.5 – 3 Antifoaming agent
3 – 8 W/O emulsifier
7 – 9 Wetting agent
8 – 18 O/W emulsifier
13 – 15 Wash active substance
12 – 18 Solubilizer for aqueous systems
Figure 1: HLB System according to W. C. Griffin
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The Molecular Weight
Another important basic property of emulsifiers is their molecular weight, the most noticeable impact is the heat stability of W/O
emulsions. Increasing the molecular weight of W/O emulsifiers increases the heat stability of W/O emulsions. Experimental work
on emulsions show that the highest stability of W/O emulsions could be obtained by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsifiers
such as ABIL ® EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) and ISOLAN ® PDI (Diisostea royl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate).
As shown in the graph (Figure 2), emulsions based on ISOLAN ® PDI are stable up to 50 °C. By using ABIL ® EM 90 as an emul sifier
it is possible to produce cosmetic formulations with a heat stability up to 60 °C. The stabilizing potential of the organic, low
molecular weight W/O emulsifiers TEGIN ® OV (Glyceryl Ole ate) and ISOLAN ® GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) is lower (only
up to 40 – 45 °C).
The high emulsion stabilizing effect of ABIL ® EM 90 and ISOLAN ® PDI is most likely due to the strong ad sorption on the interface
which results from its amphiphilic, polymeric structure. This is an advantage over the monofunctional partial esters which have
molecular weights between 500 and 2000.
60
ABIL ® EM 90
Upper limit of stability ( o C)
50
40
ISOLAN ® PDI
ISOLAN ® GI 34
TEGIN ® OV
30
100 500 1000 5000 10000
Molecular weight (g/mol)
Figure 2: Emulsion stability in correlation to the molecular weight of the emulsifier
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Applications
With Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsifiers, either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions can be prepared.
Also some specific emulsion types such as triple emulsions or water-in-silicone emulsions can be formulated. Depen ding on the
emulsifier different application forms can be realized: creams, lotions, sprayable emul sions and impregnating liquids for wet wipes.
Typical fields of application encompass body and skin care, sun care, after sun treatment, decorative cosmetics and deodorants/
antiperspirants.
Emulsifiers Landscape
The landscape in Figure 3 should provide the cosmetic formulator a use-oriented overview of W/O and O/W emulsifiers.
A representative selection of 20 emulsifiers are characterized according to their properties:
• Molecular weight
• HLB value
• Chemistry
• Physical form
• Application form
• ECOCERT approved
The averaged theoretical molecular weight in g/mol is plotted on the y-axis. The HLB value on a scale from 0 to 20 is plotted on
the x-axis. W/O emulsifiers have a low HLB value between 3 to 8. Emulsifiers of the HLB range of 8 to 18 are suitable for O/W
including cationic emulsion.
The colors differentiate the emulsifiers by their chemistry. Silicone based emulsifiers ( ) are depicted in orange and vegetable
based products ( ) are colored in grey. Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsifiers ( ) appear in green color. The deep purple
color corresponds to cationic emulsifiers ( ).
The different shapes represent the physical form of the emulsifier. The circle visualises a liquid emulsifier, square shape stands for a
solid emulsifier and the triangle indicates a pasty material.
The table also contains information for which application – creams, lotions and sprays – which emulsifier is best suited for. Furthermore
it informs which emulsifiers have already been certified by ECOCERT the leading independent international environmental
organization based in France. It is currently the largest environmental control and certification organization in Europe and it works
in 80 different countries all over the world. ECOCERT follows ISO Guide 65 (EN 45011).
Our ECOCERT approved product list besides emulsifiers can also be found at our webpage: www.evonik.com/personal-care
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20000
17
1
10000
2
3
7
Molecular weight [g/mol]
1000
500
5
4
6
15
18
9
19
16
14
11
10
8
20
13
12
5 10 15 20
HLB value
= silicone based = vegetable based
= vegetable based, PEG-free = cationic
= liquid
= solid
= paste
No. Trade Name Application form ECOCERT approved
Cream Lotion Spray
1 ABIL ® EM 90 X X
2 ABIL ® WE 09 X X
3 ABIL ® EM 97 X X
4 ISOLAN ® GPS X X X
5 ISOLAN ® PDI X X
6 ISOLAN ® GI 34 X X
7 ABIL ® Care 85 X X X
8 AXOL ® C 62 X X X X
9 TEGO ® Care CG 90 X X X X
10 TEGO ® Care 450 X X X
11 TEGO ® Care PS X X X
12 TEGIN ® Pellets X X X
13 TEGINACID ® C X
14 TEGINACID ® H X X
15 TEGO ® Care 165 X X
16 TEGO ® Care LTP X X X X
17 TEGO ® Emulprot ® X X X
18 VARISOFT ® TA 100 X X
19 TEGO ® Care CE 40 X X
20 VARISOFT ® PATC X X
Figure 3: Emulsifiers Landscape
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Emulsifiers for W/O Emulsions
Despite the fact that oil-in-water emulsions still dominate the cosmetic market, water-in-oil emulsions are favored when a greater
emolliency is desired in Night Creams, Nappy/Diaper Rash emulsions or All Weather Creams.
Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsifiers
Organosilicone emulsifiers
• ABIL ® EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone)
• ABIL ® WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate)
• ABIL ® EM 97 (Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane)
The excellent stabilizing potential of the polymeric and polyfunctional organosilicone emulsifiers combined with their specific
application properties (excellent spreading and film forming, skin feel) gives them an essential role in many cosmetic formulations.
ABIL ® EM 90 and ABIL ® WE 09 are suitable for the preparation of Multiple Emulsions of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type
or the oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type. One of the most interesting possibilities of these triple emulsions is the gradual release of
water-soluble or oil-soluble active ingredients from the internal phase.
Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsifiers
• ISOLAN ® PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate)
• ISOLAN ® GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate)
• ISOLAN ® GPS (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)
The importance of natural, PEG-free raw materials for skin care cosmetics has strongly increased. Poly gly cerol esters and glucose
esters of natural fatty acids are the emulsifiers of choice for W/O emulsions when good application properties linked with high
temperature stability and flexibility of phase-volume ratio is afforded. ISOLAN ® GI 34 is especially suitable for W/O creams. The
well-known emulsifier ISOLAN ® PDI is used in a wide range of applications such as creams and lotions in Skin Care. ISOLAN ® GPS
is especially designed for the formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with very low oil phase content (down to 18 – 20%).
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Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Stable Body and Facial Care products can be formulated with all Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care W/O emulsifiers. Therefore
the choice of emulsifiers for specific applications depends on the desired properties of a formulation (e.g. stability, viscosity, skin
feel), on the desired processing and on the type of chemical structure of the emulsifier a formulator wants to use.
Baby Care
Baby Care formulations should provide a good protection of the baby skin combined with a high caring effect and a rich skin feel.
As green and natural products the vegetable based, PEG-free polyglycerol/glucose esters of the ISOLAN ® family are recommendable
emulsifiers for Baby Care applications. Baby Creams and Nappy Rash Creams based on ISOLAN ® PDI and ISOLAN ® GI 34 impart a
rich skin feel and are compatible with active ingredients. With ISOLAN ® PDI the formulation of W/O lotions with a brilliant white
appearance, good caring properties and a rich skin feel is possible.
Sun Care
Pleasant “light and silky” Sun Care creams and lotions with low fatting properties can be formulated with the or gano silicone
emulsifiers ABIL ® EM 90 and ABIL ® WE 09. Sun Care emulsions with a high SPF can be formu lated based on ABIL ® EM 90 and
ABIL ® WE 09 due to their compatibility with high amounts of organic and inorganic UV filters. The high hydrophobicity and the
good stabilizing potential of these emulsifiers allow the formulation of waterproof Sun Care products.
Decorative Cosmetics
The organosilicone emulsifiers ABIL ® EM 97, ABIL ® EM 90 and ABIL ® WE 09 are the ideal emulsifiers for light make-up formulations.
In Decorative Cosmetics like foundations often high contents of silicone oils are used. While ABIL ® EM 97 is mainly recommended
for W/Si emulsions, ABIL ® EM 90 is known to give excellent stabilities in W/O as well as in W/Si formulations. Therefore mixtures
of ABIL ® EM 97 and ABIL ® EM 90 have often proved to be favorable in Decorative Cosmetics. ABIL ® EM 90 and ABIL ® WE 09 are
also known to be excellent emulsifiers to obtain waterproof make-up and foundation formulations.
Deodorants/Antiperspirants
ABIL ® EM 97 plays a key role in the formulation of water-in-silicone emulsions for the application Deo do rants/Antiperspirants.
Depending on the composition of the water-in-silicone formulation clear emulsions (gels) or white emulsions with a silky soft feeling
can be obtained.
Antiperspirant formulations based on ABIL ® EM 97 provide fast release of the active with a high shelf stability for the emulsion.
The fast release of AP-active from ABIL ® EM 97 based emulsions has been proven in tests.
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Additional Benefits
Skin Feel
Particular “light and silky” W/O creams and lotions with a soft, dry, non-sticky skin feel and low fatting properties can be formulated
with the organosilicone emulsifiers of the ABIL ® family. Especially ABIL ® EM 97 is known to provide an elegant “silky soft”
character to emulsions.
For the formulation of emulsions with a particular rich skin feel – as desired for Night Creams, All Weather Creams or Baby Creams
– we recommend to use the ISOLAN ® polyglycerol esters such as ISOLAN ® GI 34 and ISOLAN ® PDI.
W/O Lotions with a pleasant very light, non-oily skin feel can be obtained using ISOLAN ® GPS.
Excellent Heat/Freeze Stability
As shown in Figure 2, the heat stability of W/O emulsions is significantly improved by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsifiers
with a high molecular weight. The best available option to formulate emulsions with an excellent heat stability (depending on the
formulation up to + 60 °C) is therefore the organosilicone emulsifier ABIL ® EM 90.
As a PEG-free, vegetable based alternative to ABIL ® EM 90 the polymeric polyglycerol ester ISOLAN ® PDI is recommended.
Depending on the formulation a heat stability up to + 50 °C can be reached.
With both emulsifiers freeze stabilities of - 25 °C can be obtained. A high emulsion stabilizing effect is also given with ISOLAN ® GPS.
Cold Processing
Working with wax-free formulations in a cold emulsification process is becoming more and more important for mass-market W/O
lotions. Since the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsifiers ABIL ® EM 90, ABIL ® WE 09, ABIL ® EM 97, ISOLAN ® PDI and
ISOLAN ® GPS are liquid, they are well suited for such cold processed formulations. As stabilizer Zinc Stearate proved to be most
effective.
Emulsifiers for O/W Emulsions
Worldwide, the type of emulsion most often produced and used is of the oil-in-water variety. O/W emulsions include the more
common types of cosmetic creams and lotions, as well as sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids.
Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsifiers
Organosilicone Emulsifier
• ABIL ® Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
The silicone based, liquid product ABIL ® Care 85 combines the characteristics of an O/W emulsifier with an added value concerning
the velvety skin feel which can be obtained in emulsions based upon it.
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Vegetable based, PEG-free Emulsifiers
• AXOL ® C 62 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)
• TEGO ® Care CG 90 (Cetearyl Glucoside)
• TEGO ® Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate)
• TEGO ® Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)
• TEGO ® Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)
• TEGO ® Emulprot ® (Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum,
Magnesium Stearate)
• TEGIN ® Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE)
These “green” and PEG-free emulsifiers have application in all possible types of O/W formulations.
AXOL ® C 62 is a food grade emulsifier which is based on natural raw materials. By using AXOL ® C 62 Pellets it is possible to produce
cosmetic formulations with a wide range of consistencies from lotions to creams. Depending on the composition even “edible
emulsions” can be prepared. AXOL ® C 62 is supplied in pellets and powder form. For the hot processing of O/W emulsions the
use of AXOL ® C 62 Pellets is suggested due to better processing.
Different to other alkyl glucoside emulsifiers on the market, TEGO ® Care CG 90 has an extremely high content of active matter
(> 90 %). It forms stable emulsions at very low usage concentrations (1 – 1.5 %) without the need for a co-emulsifier. Due to the
low content of consistency enhancers in the product a wide range of compositions with different viscosity levels can be easily
formulated. When processing it is recommended to add TEGO ® Care CG 90 to the water phase.
With TEGO ® Care 450 and TEGO ® Care PS the cosmetic formulator is given the opportunity to formulate a broad spectrum of
cosmetic creams and lotions based on raw materials from a natural basis. These PEG-free methylglucose esters form O/W emulsions
with a bright white appearance and pleasant application properties.
TEGIN ® Pellets is a commonly used emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials. In 1929 Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH developed
this O/W emulsifier which is suitable for the processing of stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 to 8.2.
TEGO ® Care LTP is a versatile, liquid PEG-free emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials suitable for the formulation of O/W
emulsions. It is especially of interest for the cold processing of lotions and sprays at room temperature and for the hot processing of
creams. Emulsions based on TEGO ® Care LTP can be prepared with standard production processes using a homogenizer, but in
cases where no homogenizer is available in production, TEGO ® Care LTP can also be used for the preparation of O/W lotions using
intense stirring instead of a homogenization step.
TEGO ® Emulprot ® is a new generation of emulsifier and texturizer that is close to nature. It is a milk and sugar based, PEG-free
emulsifier which is produced by a biotechnological process. The product is available as a powder and suitable for hot processing.
TEGO ® Emulprot ® is especially suitable for ”Green” Natural O/W emulsions for the application Facial, Body Care and Baby Care.
These “green” emulsifiers are all approved by Ecocert.
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Vegetable based Emulsifiers
• TEGINACID ® C (Ceteareth-25)
• TEGINACID ® H (Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteth-20)
• TEGO ® Care 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate)
One outstanding property of the TEGINACID ® products is their stability in acid or weakly alkaline formulations (pH values
between 4.0 and 8.5). While TEGINACID ® C is mainly suitable for the formulation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical creams, the
main applications of TEGINACID ® H are O/W lotions.
TEGO ® Care 165 is especially of interest for the processing of low cost mass market O/W emulsions. Creams and lotions containing
TEGO ® Care 165 show improved compatibility with higher concentrations of electrolytes.
Cationic Emulsifiers
• VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride)
• VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)
• TEGO ® Care CE 40 (Cetearyl alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimoniumchloride)
Creams and lotions formulated with the cationic vegetable based emulsifiers of the VARISOFT ® family provide a specific non-oily
skin feel which might be favorable in formulations with higher lipid loadings. The specific properties of these formulations are due
to the cationic character of the emulsifier molecule. Because of this cationic character, stabilisation of the formulations with Carbomer
thickeners is not favourable. However, these emulsifiers are well compatible with all type of classical consistency enhancers.
Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Emulsifiers for Facial Care applications should ideally be natural and mild products that provide some additional benefits to facial
skin. These aspects are met when using the emulsifier TEGO ® Care 450. In a publication of Henkel “On the Choice of O/W
Emulsifiers for Use in Skin Care Products for Sensitive Skin” TEGO ® Care 450 was in-vivo tested as a very mild emulsifier.
Moisturizing properties as measured by corneometer have also been determined [1]. TEGO ® Care 450 can be seen as an excellent
emulsifier for Facial Care applications. Furthermore TEGO ® Care CG 90 and TEGO ® Care PS are also good emulsifiers with
moisturizing properties for Facial Care lotions and creams.
Consumers expect Hand Care products to be easily spread, quickly absorbed and to possess a lasting caring effect. In addition, a
hand cream should be difficult to wash off, i.e. it should not re-emulsify immediate on contact with water.
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TEGIN ® Pellets is the most commonly used emulsifier in Hand Care products. Also TEGINACID ® C plays an im por tant role as well
approved emulsifier in Hand Care creams. Combining TEGIN ® Pellets or TEGINACID ® C with TEGO ® Care 450 and/or TEGO ® Care PS
in Hand Care formulations often yields additional benefits such as improved water resistance or additional moisturizing properties.
Body Care lotions for the low cost mass market can be formulated on the basis of the PEG-free emulsifiers AXOL ® C 62 and
TEGO ® Care LTP. By using different types of emulsifiers a specific type of skin feel of the Body Care product can be obtained (see
section Additional Benefits: Skin Feel).
Baby Care
For O/W formulations in Baby Care Applications “green”, vegetable based, PEG-free raw materials with a high purity are requested.
TEGO ® Care CG 90 is a natural, highly efficient emulsifier of high purity which is therefore perfectly suited for formulating all
different types of Baby Care emulsions.
Sun Care
In Sun Care applications emulsifiers are needed that show an excellent compatibility with organic and inorganic UV filters.
AXOL ® C 62 is a proven natural emulsifier for Sun Care lotions and creams. Many cosmetic Sun Care product lines are based on
this emulsifier. Using the emulsifier TEGO ® Care 450 results in Sun Care formulations with a much higher water resistance than it
is usually known from O/W Sun Care products based on classical PEG-containing O/W emulsifiers. Cationic emulsions have been
proven to give water resistance properties and to improve the sand repellency of Sun Care products. Especially in combination with
REWOPAL ® PIB 1000 the water resistancy can be increased.
Deodorants/Antiperspirants
In roll-on Deodorant/Antiperspirant applications ABIL ® Care 85 in combination with the co-emulsifiers TEGINACID ® H or
TEGO ® SMO 80 V allows the formulation of low viscous lotions with an excellent light and smoothing perception on the skin.
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Special Forms of Application
Sprayable Emulsions
Sprayable emulsions play a role of significant importance in many segments of the cosmetic market (e.g. Sun Care, After Sun, Skin
Care). A prerequisite in formulating sprayable emulsions are stable O/W lotions with a low viscosity. Such low viscous O/W
emulsions can be also used as a basis for impregnating liquids for wet wipes.
O/W sprayable lotions based on the emulsifier/consistency enhancer blend TEGINACID ® H can be produced by the classical hot
process with standard homogenization equipment. Their resulting viscosity is very low (100 – 500 mPas)*. Due to the fine droplet
size, the emulsions show a sufficient long-term stability even with these low viscosities.
The combination of ABIL ® Care 85 with TEGINACID ® H provides sprayable lotions (viscosity approx. 1500 mPas)* with an improved
skin feel compared to emulsions which are only based on ethoxylated emulsifiers (velvety-silky, smoothing instead of watery with
a dull after feel).
Sprayable emulsions based on a combination of ABIL ® Care 85 and a hydrophilic co-emulsifier such as TEGO ® SMO 80 V can be
obtained by cold processing. These consistency enhancer-free formulations can be stabilized by using polymeric thickeners (e.g.
TEGO ® Carbomers). The viscosity for such sprayable lotions has to be between 1000 and 2000 mPas* in order to have a good
long-term stability. A viscosity of 2000 mPas or even higher is not a problem for the spray heads that are available today.
PEG-free, sprayable emulsions on basis of AXOL ® C 62 can be produced by hot processing via a concentrated emulsion. The emulsion
viscosity can vary between 100 and 2000 mPas*.
Another possibility to obtain sprayable lotions based on a PEG-free emulsifier is the use of TEGO ® Care CG 90. Combi ning
TEGO ® Care CG 90 with potassium stearate as co-emulsifier in a hot process allows the formulation of stable sprayable lotions
with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 mPas*.
Stable O/W sprayable lotions can be prepared with TEGO ® Care LTP in a cold process at room temperature using a homogenizer.
TEGO ® Care LTP should be combined with polymeric stabilizers/thickeners in order to adjust the viscosity and the stability profile
of the PEG-free emulsions. For the preparation of sprayable emulsions a combination of TEGO ® Carbomer 141 (INCI: Carbomer)
and TEGO ® Carbomer 341 ER (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer) proved to be most effective. The viscosity
of the final emulsion should be approx. 2000 mPas.
* Brookfield RVT, Spindle 4, 10 rpm.
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Wet Wipes
Low viscous O/W emulsions are of interest for many cosmetic applications. Systems of particular interest are impregnating lotions
for the preparation of cosmetic wet wipes. A new technology of P.I.C. (phase inversion concentration) emulsions has been developed.
The products are traded under the names TEGO ® Wipe DE and TEGO ® Wipe DE PF.
TEGO ® Wipe DE and TEGO ® Wipe DE PF are unique blends of EO-free emulsifiers, a caring cosmetic emollient and significant
amounts of preservatives. The INCI name of TEGO ® Wipe DE is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben, Dilauryl Citrate, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben. The INCI of TEGO ® Wipe DE PF
is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Dilauryl Citrate. Both products are liquid concentrates
easy-to-process by dilution with water.
When diluting 3 – 8% of TEGO ® Wipe DE or TEGO ® Wipe DE PF finely dispersed O/W emulsion can be obtained via a
microemulsion-like phase. Due to the relatively high amount of preservative in TEGO ® Wipe DE/DE PF additional preservation of
the resulting impregnating liquid may not be necessary.
The production process is very simple as no heating and no homogenizer is required. Impregnating liquids made from TEGO ® Wipe DE/
DE PF products have a very fine degree of dispersion absolutely comparable to P.I.T. emulsions based on ethoxylated emulsifiers
which leads to good long-term stability.
Additional Benefits
Skin Feel
With the ageing population, skin moisturization has become a key attribute to consumers. One way to a chieve this effect is to boost
the lipophilic content in formulas. This, however, can impart an unpleasant, unctuous feel to a skin care product.
Cationic emulsion systems based on low irritation, skin friendly emulsifiers are now being used to create a unique powdery feel
that can mask higher lipophilic loadings. Cationic emulsifiers can be included in moisturizing lotions, facial creams, Sun Care products
or shaving creams to give a dry, non-oily skin feel combined with good adsorption.
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VARISOFT ® TA 100 offers the formulator flexibility in choosing the stabilizers. Emulsions made with this emulsifier are extremely
light and absorb quickly to form a matte finish on the skin surface. Emulsions based on VARISOFT ® PATC have a light after feel but
leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture.
A velvety-silky skin feel combined with a long lasting skin smoothing perception can be obtained by cosmetic emulsions with the
organosilicone emulsifier ABIL ® Care 85. As a result of corneometer and FOITS measurements ABIL ® Care 85 can be judged as
having outstanding skin moisturizing and skin smoothing properties.
Lotions and creams formulated with TEGO ® Care 450 provide a caring, rich skin feel combined with additional moisturizing
properties.
The highly effective alkyl glucoside emulsifier TEGO ® Care CG 90 is known to impart a soft and supple skin feel to O/W creams
and lotions.
Performance
Modern emulsifiers should provide a large flexibility to the formulator regarding the range of obtainable viscosities (creams, lotions)
and the range of emulsifyable oil components (emollients of different chemical structure and different polarity). Furthermore a
sufficient pH range (4.5 – 8.0) should be accessible for the formulations based on these emulsifiers. Additional requirements can
be the compatibility with electrolytes or with UV filters or other active ingredients.
Such a wide flexibility for the formulator is offered by the versatile emulsifier TEGO ® Care 450, which is known for its excellent
compatibility with active ingredients and significant amounts of electrolytes within the desired pH range.
In specific formulations like self tanning products containing DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) a pH ≤ 4.0 is needed. TEGO ® Care PS can
be recommended for such formulations at low pH values.
In order to obtain even higher electrolyte resistance in O/W formulations, TEGO ® Care 165 alone or as co-emulsifier can provide
additional stability.
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Processing
The processing of O/W emulsions at room temperature has several significant benefits. For example, it is no longer necessary to
heat the water and oil phase to 70 – 80 °C. This saves not only considerable amounts of energy, but, as the cooling step is eliminated,
the cycle time is reduced as well. Another advantage is that heat-sensitive ingredients, such as biological additives, can be added to
the emulsions at any point.
The liquid organosilicone emulsifier ABIL ® Care 85 in combination with the liquid co-emulsifier TEGO ® SMO 80 V enables cold
processing of O/W lotions with velvety-silky skin feel.
PEG-free, cold processable lotions can be produced by using a pre-solution of AXOL ® C 62. A pre-solution of 10 % of AXOL ® C 62
can be prepared which has a long time storage stability and which is pumpable at room temperature. This pre-solution can be easily
worked into the water phase of the emulsion in a cold process.
Cold processed O/W emulsions can be also obtained with the PEG-free emulsifier TEGO ® Care LTP. This cost effective liquid
emulsifier is easy-to-use for cold processing of lotions and sprays. The emulsifier is able to stabilize O/W lotions with and without
a real homogenization step.
TEGO ® Wipe DE/TEGO ® Wipe DE PF allows in a very convenient way to process O/W sprays and lotions at room temperature.
The O/W emulsions can be prepared without a homogenizer only using moderate stirring to prepare the emulsion. For these
applications the addition of polymeric stabilizers such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum is necessary.
The following 2 diagrams summarize the representative W/O and O/W emulsifiers according to their trade name, INCI name,
fields of application, usage concentration and the most important properties. The overviews are dedicated to help in selecting the
right emulsifier for the desired formulation.
15

Trade Name INCI Name Properties
• Silicone based emulsifier with a high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to its
polymeric and polyfunctional structure
• Emulsifier for “light” creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 compatibility with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters
ABIL ® EM 90 Dimethicone • Emulsifier for multiple emulsions
Polyglyceryl-4
Isostearate, • Optimally balanced blend of emulsifiers and an emollient, similar to ABIL ® EM 90
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 • Especially suitable for sunscreen emulsions with high sun protection factors and
Dimethicone,
make up formulations
ABIL ® WE 09 Hexyl Laurate • Emulsifier for multiple emulsions
Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 • Silicone based emulsifier for water-in-silicone creams and lotions
Dimethicone,
• Emulsifier for antiperspirant formulations (including “clear gels”) with excellent
A B I L ® EM 97 Cyclopentasiloxane delivering of antiperspirant active ingredients
• PEG-free emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials especially suitable for the
Polyglyceryl-4
formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with a pleasant, very light and non-oily
Diisostearate/
skin feel
Polyhydroxystearate/ • Allows the formulation of W/O lotions with a very low content of oil phase
ISOLAN ® GPS Sebacate (down to 18 – 20%)
• Vegetable based emulsifier with high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to
Diisostearoyl
its polymeric and polyfunctional structure
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer • Emulsifier for elegant W/O emulsions with a brilliant white appearance and
I SO L A N ® PDI Dilinoleate pleasant application properties
Polyglyceryl-4
• Emulsifier for creams with paraffin oils and with ester oils
ISOLAN ® GI 34 Isostearate • Good stability against oxidation
Figure 4: W/O Emulsifiers Overview
16

Usage/Concentration
Fields of Application
Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP
1.5 – 2.5 % • • • •
4.0 – 6.0 % • • •
1.5 – 3.0 % • •
2 – 3% • • • • • •
3.0 % • • •
2.5 – 4.0 % • • •
17

Trade Name INCI Name Properties
Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16
PEG/PPG-16/16
Dimethicone,
• Silicone based nonionic emulsifier for sprayable emulsions, lotions and creams
Caprylic/Capric • Emulsions with a velvety-silky skin feel and long-lasting skin smoothing perception
ABIL ® Care 85 Triglyceride • Cold processable and easy to handle (liquid and clear down to 0 °C)
• PEG-free, food grade emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials
Glyceryl Stearate • Emulsifier for creams, lotions, sprays and foams
AXOL ® C 62 Citrate • Suitable for cold production of lotions (powder form)
• Sugar based, PEG-free emulsifier with a high purity/active matter
• Emulsifier for “natural” emulsions
TEGO ® Care CG 90 Cetearyl Glucoside • Additional benefits: soft and supple skin feel, moisturizing
• PEG-free emulsifier based on natural renewable raw materials
Polyglyceryl-3
• Emulsifier for creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility
Methylglucose
with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters
TEGO ® Care 450 Distearate • Additional benefits: very mild to skin, moisturizing, water resistant sunscreens
Similar to TEGO ® Care 450, but
Methyl Glucose • Stable creams with lower pH values (down to 3.5)
TEGO ® Care PS Sesquistearate • Higher compatibility with electrolyte-type active ingredients
• PEG-free emulsifier based on renewable raw materials
• Stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 – 8.2
TEGIN ® Pellets Glyceryl Stearate SE • Additional benefit: moisturizing
• Non-ionic emulsifier for cosmetic and pharmaceutic creams (US Pharmakopoeia)
TEGINACID ® C Ceteareth-25 • Creams with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredients
• Blend of emulsifier and consistency enhancer for the preparation of lotions
Glyceryl Stearate, • Especially suitable for sprayable lotions (wet wipes, sun care, deodorants) as well
TEGINACID ® H Ceteth-20 as foaming lotions
Glyceryl Stearate • Vegetable based emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions with pleasant
(and) PEG-100
application properties
TEGO ® Care 165 Stearate • Compatible with higher concentrations of electrolytes
Sorbitan Laurate, • PEG-free, liquid O/W emulsifier easy- to-use for cold processing of lotions
Polyglyceryl-4
and sprays and for hot processing of creams
Laurate, Dilauryl • Able to stabilize O/W lotions prepared in a cold process without a real
TEGO ® Care LTP Citrate homogenization step
Sodium Citrate,
Hydrolyzed Milk
Protein, Xanthan
Gum, Cyamopsis,
Tetragonoloba
(Guar) Gum,
• A Natural Milk-and-Sugar-Based Emulsifier for O/W emulsions
TEGO ® Emulprot ® Magnesium Stearate • Innovative PEG-free emulsifier especially designed for Natural Cosmetic Products
Cetearyl alcohol (and)
Palmitamidopropyl- • Cationic emulsifier system for O/W creams and lotions
trimonium Chloride • Provides a powdery skin feel
TEGO ® Care CE 40 (proposed). • Co-Emulsifier to alter a formulation’s sensory profile
• Emulsifier based on renewable raw materials for O/W emulsions
Distearyldimonium • Emulsions are extremely light and absorb quickly to form a matte finish on the
VARISOFT ® TA 100 Chloride • skin surface
Palmitamidopropyl- • Unique, vegetable based emulsifier for creams and lotions
VARISOFT ® PATC trimonium Chloride • Formulations have a light after feel, but leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture
Figure 5: O/W Emulsifiers Overview
Authors: Gabriele Polak, Dr. Jürgen Meyer, Anna Howe, Angela Paez
Guide line formulations:
For further information please visit our homepage: www.evonik.com/personal-care
18

Usage/Concentration
Fields of Application
Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP
1.5 – 3.0 % • • • • • •
0.3 – 2.0 % • • • • •
1.0 – 1.5 % • • • •
2.0 – 3.0 % • • • •
2.0 – 4.0 % • •
6.0 – 8.0 % • • •
2.0 % • •
3.0 – 4.0 % • • • •
3 – 10 % • •
1.5 – 2.5 % • • • •
2.5 – 5.0 % • • •
6.0 – 8.0 % • • • •
3.5 – 5.5 % •
4.0 – 4.75 % •
Literature: [1] G. Kutz, P. Biehl, M. Waldmann-Laue and B. Jackwerth: On the Choice of Oil-in-Water Emulsifiers for Use in Skin
Care Products for Sensitive Skin, SÖFW-Journal 123, 145 – 150, 1997
[2] Dietz, Th.: Sprayable Emulsions and Foaming Lotions, SÖFW-Journal 128, 62 – 66, 2002
[3] P. Becker, J. Meyer, B. Grüning: TEGO ® Emulprot ® – An Innovative »Milk and Sugar« Based Emulsifier for Natural Skin Care
Concepts, Cosmetic Year Book, July 2007
[4] J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Fötsch: A Novel PEG-free Emulsifier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel,
SÖFW-Journal, November 2005
[5] J. Meyer, G. Polak, R. Scheuermann: Preparing PIC Emulsions with a Very Fine Particle Size, Cosmetic & Toiletries, January 2007
19

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phone + 49 201 173- 2854
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For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cific area of interest, please contact the
Evonik Goldschmidt Head Office in Essen or contact your local representative.
This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH‘s present knowledge
and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice
including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property
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A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE
RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF
PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to
technological progress or further developments. It is the customer’s responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect
and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verified by testing and
carried out only by qualified experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any
such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement
of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)
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03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 22-08