Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
H 3
C Si O Si O Si O Si O Et
CH 3
CH 3
(CH 2
) 3
(CH 2
) 3
m
O NH 2
O
OH
O CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
O
R N N
+
O Si O Si O N
+
N R
H CH CH CH 3
OH CH 3
H
3 3
n
CH 2
CH 2
O
CH 2
CH
O
x
CH 3
Y
Siloxane quat:
Quaternium-80
(ABIL ® Quat 3272, liquid, 50 % active
ABIL ® Quat 3474, viscous, 97 % active)
CH 3
n
Amino functional siloxane:
Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone
(ABIL ® Soft AF 100, liquid, 100 % active)
Figure 7: Tested silicones
Organic based cationics
Two monoalkyl quats with different C-chain-length were tested: one of the most common conditioning agents
Cetrimonium Chloride (“CTAC”, VARISOFT ® 300), which functioned in all our tests as a standard, and the more
hydrophobic VARISOFT ® BT 85 (Behentrimonium Chloride).
In 2007 a new environmental friendly cationic was introduced. VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets is an ester quat based on
high purity stearic acid and is compounded with Cetearyl Alcohol. It is a readily biodegradable conditioning agent with a
high flash point.
Furthermore two dialkyl quats were tested:
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG (Dicetyldimonium Chloride) and VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride).
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) is an imidazolinium based quaternary which offers good biodegradability,
TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidoproyltrimonium Chloride)
were also evaluated.
Silicone based conditioning agents
The two most interesting silicones for conditioners from our range are ABIL ® Soft AF 100, an aminofunctional siloxane
(Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) and ABIL ® Quat 3474, a high molecular siloxane quat
(Quaternium-80). It is common to use silicone derivatives in combinations with organics. Potential synergies between
both types of conditioning chemistries were investigated.
ABIL ® Quat 3272 with the same INCI name has a lower molecular weight due to a shorter silicone chain. This makes it
better to dilute in clear aqueous systems like shampoos and can therefore be used in both, shampoos and conditioners.
The test results shown in this brochure have been generated with ABIL ® Quat 3474.
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