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Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

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Curl retention [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0) * 100<br />

Curl length at t0 after drying at 50 % rel. humidity<br />

Curl length after 2 hours at 70 % rel. humidity<br />

Figure 4: Curl retention test<br />

Figure 5: Fly away effect measuring method<br />

Sensory methods<br />

Technical methods are useful in screening products <strong>and</strong> <strong>for</strong>mulations, but sensory methods should be used to confirm<br />

the findings. When per<strong>for</strong>med by trained personnel, sensory use data will closely parallel consumer preferences.<br />

<strong>Hair</strong> swatch test<br />

A sensory hair swatch test with st<strong>and</strong>ardised damaged hair is mostly used as a screening. By using a defined scoring<br />

system, we rate the following properties by sensory assessment: detangling/wet comb, wet feel, dry comb, dry feel,<br />

volume <strong>and</strong> gloss.<br />

Salon tests (half head tests) done by hairdressers<br />

One of the most important conditioning tests is the half head test. Here, the hair of a test subject is treated with two<br />

different <strong>for</strong>mulations, one on the left <strong>and</strong> one on the right of the head. The hairdresser is able to make a direct<br />

comparison of properties like ease of distribution, rinsability, wet <strong>and</strong> dry comb, wet <strong>and</strong> dry feel, drying time, gloss,<br />

volume/body, antistatic behaviour, bounce, build up, etc. Generally a defined scoring system is used.<br />

7

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