Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...
Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ... Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...
7. Comprehensive Matrix In the table (Figure 20) the performance results for the conditioning agents were correlated with the different hair types having differing performance requirements. The suggestions are based on the test results for the individual properties. From the results with conditioning agents in hair rinse application, those products are selected providing the best fit to the treatment effect needed. By matching a specific need or hair type with performance results, a recommendation of a conditioning ingredient or a selection of products becomes apparent. Ingredients with best performance (positive results in one or more tests) are printed in bold letters. This matrix is dedicated to help in selecting the right conditioning agent for the desired performance of a formulation. It should be used as a working tool, helping to avoid unnecessary trials in formulation work and performance testing. The table refers to the application Conditioning Rinse/Intensive Treatment. Hair type Fine Properties Detangling/wet comb Wet feel Dry comb improved (lower force) Dry comb reduced (higher force) Dry feel Gloss/shine Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop) Antistatic effect Straightening effect (weighing down, poor volume) Body/volume virgin O X X X O permed O O O X dyed O X O X X O X X X Normal (Caucasian) virgin O O X O grey/white O O X O permed O O X O O dyed O X O O X O O O X Thick/coarse straight (Asian) virgin, grey/white O O O O O X permed O O X O O dyed O X X O X X O curly (South American, North African) virgin, grey/white X O O O X straightened X O X O X X dyed X X O O X O curly (Ethnic) virgin, grey/white O O O X X straightened X O X X X X dyed O X O X X O Wash fastness/color protection X = essential; O = important Figure 20: Performance results correlated with specific performance requirements 22
Literature [1] Robbins, C.R.: Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair, Springer Verlag (1994) [2] Robbins, C.R.; Crawford, R.J. (1984): Method to evaluate hair body. J. Soc. Cosm. Chemistry 35, 369–377 Authors Uta Kortemeier, Holger I. Leidreiter, Sascha Herrwerth Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany Ingredients for rinses VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; ABIL ® SOFT AF 100; VARISOFT ® PATC TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; VARISOFT ® 300 VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC; ABIL ® SOFT AF 100 ABIL ® SOFT AF 100; VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 18 and ABIL ® Quat 3474 VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; ABIL ® Quat 3474; VARISOFT ® W 575 PG (higher dosage for straightening effect) ABIL ® Quat 3474; Quats at high use level VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® TA 100 ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100 VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85 VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC; ABIL ® Quat 3474 ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85 VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; VARISOFT ® PATC ; ABIL ® Quat 3474 23
- Page 1 and 2: Hair Types and Required Specific In
- Page 3 and 4: Thin/fine and medium hair Thin/fine
- Page 5 and 6: Hair type Properties Fine Detanglin
- Page 7 and 8: Curl retention [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0
- Page 9 and 10: CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 3 C Si O Si O
- Page 11 and 12: 6. Results Figure 8 gives an overvi
- Page 13 and 14: Comparison against CTAC (VARISOFT
- Page 15 and 16: Body/Volume Conditioners reduce the
- Page 17 and 18: Curl retention [%] ( = L - L t / L
- Page 19 and 20: Half head test results The new envi
- Page 21: Summary: Specific properties of con
7. Comprehensive Matrix<br />
In the table (Figure 20) the per<strong>for</strong>mance results <strong>for</strong> the conditioning agents were correlated with the different hair types having<br />
differing per<strong>for</strong>mance requirements. The suggestions are based on the test results <strong>for</strong> the individual properties. From the results<br />
with conditioning agents in hair rinse application, those products are selected providing the best fit to the treatment effect needed.<br />
By matching a specific need or hair type with per<strong>for</strong>mance results, a recommendation of a conditioning ingredient or a selection of<br />
products becomes apparent.<br />
<strong>Ingredients</strong> with best per<strong>for</strong>mance (positive results in one or more tests) are printed in bold letters. This matrix is dedicated to help<br />
in selecting the right conditioning agent <strong>for</strong> the desired per<strong>for</strong>mance of a <strong>for</strong>mulation. It should be used as a working tool, helping<br />
to avoid unnecessary trials in <strong>for</strong>mulation work <strong>and</strong> per<strong>for</strong>mance testing.<br />
The table refers to the application <strong>Conditioning</strong> Rinse/Intensive Treatment.<br />
<strong>Hair</strong> type<br />
Fine<br />
Properties<br />
Detangling/wet comb<br />
Wet feel<br />
Dry comb improved (lower <strong>for</strong>ce)<br />
Dry comb reduced (higher <strong>for</strong>ce)<br />
Dry feel<br />
Gloss/shine<br />
Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop)<br />
Antistatic effect<br />
Straightening effect (weighing<br />
down, poor volume)<br />
Body/volume<br />
virgin O X X X O<br />
permed O O O X<br />
dyed O X O X X O X X X<br />
Normal (Caucasian)<br />
virgin O O X O<br />
grey/white O O X O<br />
permed O O X O O<br />
dyed O X O O X O O O X<br />
Thick/coarse<br />
straight (Asian)<br />
virgin, grey/white O O O O O X<br />
permed O O X O O<br />
dyed O X X O X X O<br />
curly (South American,<br />
North African)<br />
virgin, grey/white X O O O X<br />
straightened X O X O X X<br />
dyed X X O O X O<br />
curly (Ethnic)<br />
virgin, grey/white O O O X X<br />
straightened X O X X X X<br />
dyed O X O X X O<br />
Wash fastness/color protection<br />
X = essential; O = important<br />
Figure 20: Per<strong>for</strong>mance results correlated with specific per<strong>for</strong>mance requirements<br />
22
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