Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ... Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

03.06.2014 Views

Figure 14 describes the results of the technical ring method (tests done by an institute). These results correlate well to those of the dry combing forces (Figure 11): the lowest volume reduction after conditioning treatment was measured for TEGO ® Amid S 18. Relative change of volume force [%] 0 -5 -10 -15 -20 -25 -30 -35 -40 -45 -50 The low reduction of volume force by the TEGO ® Amid S 18 makes it suitable for preparations especially for fine, thin hair. Test formula: rinse 0.5 % Ceteareth-25 2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % active Conditioning agent ad 100.0 % water; pH=4 TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Quat 3474 CTAC Control 1 % ABIL ® Quat 3474 arithmetic mean value standard error confidence range 95 % Figure 14: Results of body-/volume-measurements Antistatic properties All conditioning agents reduced static charges caused by combing to nearly the same extent. With a lower charge density, ABIL ® Quat 3474 was least efficacious in dissipating the static charge. Reduction of curl droop (improved hold of hairstyle) In comparison to the control formulation (placebo), all conditioning agents increased the curl droop. The lowest reduction was measured for the two dialkylquats VARISOFT ® TA 100 and VARISOFT ® 432 PPG. The reason for that could be better hydrophobizing properties of these products. In between the monoalkylquats and the dialkylquats lays the curl retention property of ABIL ® Soft AF 100. This is why we combined this product and found some synergistic effects. An example is the combination of ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Figure 15). The hydrophobizing effect protects the hair fiber against humidity, which makes the hair style being more stable. This is a very important property for fine hair, but also for frizzy hair. Frizzy hair normally is styled to have either defined curls or to smoothen the hair. With a change of humidity, the hair fiber is plasticized and gets into its original form (frizzy) again. 16

Curl retention [%] ( = L – L t / L – L o )* 100 10 0 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 40 ABIL ® Soft AF 100 plus TEGO ® Amid S 18 reduce the curl droop synergistically. Test formula: rinse 0.5 % Ceteareth-25 2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 % active Conditioning agentt ad 100.0 % water; pH=4 0 0.5 1 2 3 5 time [h] Control ABIL ® Soft AF 100 TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 + 1 % ABIL ® Soft AF 100 Figure 15: Curl retention results 17

Curl retention [%] ( = L – L t / L – L o )* 100<br />

10 0<br />

95<br />

90<br />

85<br />

80<br />

75<br />

70<br />

65<br />

60<br />

55<br />

50<br />

45<br />

40<br />

ABIL ® Soft AF 100 plus TEGO ® Amid S 18<br />

reduce the curl droop synergistically.<br />

Test <strong>for</strong>mula: rinse<br />

0.5 % Ceteareth-25<br />

2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol<br />

2.0 % active <strong>Conditioning</strong> agentt<br />

ad 100.0 % water; pH=4<br />

0 0.5 1 2 3 5<br />

time [h]<br />

Control<br />

ABIL ® Soft AF 100<br />

TEGO ® Amid S 18<br />

1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 + 1 % ABIL ® Soft AF 100<br />

Figure 15: Curl retention results<br />

17

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