Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...
Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ... Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...
5. Preparation of the Hair Swatches and Test Formulations For the sensory test on hair swatches these were damaged by bleaching (and perming) in a standardised way. Then standard aliquots of the conditioning agents were applied via a simple hair rinse formulation, based on • 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-20 resp. Ceteareth-25) • 2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol • 1.0 or 2.0 % active of the tested conditioning agents (for combination 1.0 + 1.0 %) • ad 100.0 % water • pH ad 4.0 resp. 5.0 “Control” indicates this formulation with no conditioning agent. Since the ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets was introduced to the market in 2007 after finalizing the comparison of the other conditioning agents, professional half head tests have been conducted separately to compare the conditioning properties against two standards: Cetrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Chloride. The tests have been done by an independent test institute with 10 panelists by applying formulations based on: • 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-25) • 5.5 % Cetearyl Alcohol • 2.0 % active quat • ad 100.0 % water • pH ad 4.5 10
6. Results Figure 8 gives an overview about the best products for each property-improvement. Detangling, wet combability • VARISOFT ® BT 85 • VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets • TEGO ® Amid S 18 • Synergistic combinations of: • ABIL ® Quat 3474 with VARISOFT ® TA 100 • ABIL ® Quat 3474 with TEGO ® Amid S 18 Wet feel • VARISOFT ® BT 85 • VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets • VARISOFT ® 432 PPG Dry combability -improved • VARISOFT ® TA 100 • VARISOFT ® 432 PPG • Synergistic combination of ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 Dry combability -reduced (improvement of hold) • VARISOFT ® W 575 PG • VARISOFT ® PATC • TEGO ® Amid S 18 Dry feel • VARISOFT ® BT 85 • VARISOFT ® PATC • VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Gloss/shine • TEGO ® Amid S 18 • ABIL ® Quat 3474 Body/volume • TEGO ® Amid S 18 • VARISOFT ® W 575 PG • ABIL ® Soft AF 100 Straightening/weighing down effect Elevated use levels of: • VARISOFT ® BT 85 • VARISOFT ® 432 PPG • Synergistic combinations with ABIL ® Quat Anti-fly-away • VARISOFT ® W 575 PG • VARISOFT ® TA 100 • VARISOFT ® 300 • TEGO ® Amid S 18 Style retention, anti-frizz • ABIL ® Soft AF 100 • VARISOFT ® TA 100 • VARISOFT ® 432 PPG Wash fastness • VARISOFT ® BT 85 • Synergistic combinations of: • ABIL ® Quat with VARISOFT ® W 575 PG • ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with VARISOFT ® BT 85 Figure 8: Summary of superior test results for each property improvement 11
- Page 1 and 2: Hair Types and Required Specific In
- Page 3 and 4: Thin/fine and medium hair Thin/fine
- Page 5 and 6: Hair type Properties Fine Detanglin
- Page 7 and 8: Curl retention [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0
- Page 9: CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 3 C Si O Si O
- Page 13 and 14: Comparison against CTAC (VARISOFT
- Page 15 and 16: Body/Volume Conditioners reduce the
- Page 17 and 18: Curl retention [%] ( = L - L t / L
- Page 19 and 20: Half head test results The new envi
- Page 21 and 22: Summary: Specific properties of con
- Page 23 and 24: Literature [1] Robbins, C.R.: Chemi
5. Preparation of the <strong>Hair</strong> Swatches <strong>and</strong> Test Formulations<br />
For the sensory test on hair swatches these were damaged by bleaching (<strong>and</strong> perming) in a st<strong>and</strong>ardised way. Then st<strong>and</strong>ard<br />
aliquots of the conditioning agents were applied via a simple hair rinse <strong>for</strong>mulation, based on<br />
• 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-20 resp. Ceteareth-25)<br />
• 2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol<br />
• 1.0 or 2.0 % active of the tested conditioning agents (<strong>for</strong> combination 1.0 + 1.0 %)<br />
• ad 100.0 % water<br />
• pH ad 4.0 resp. 5.0<br />
“Control” indicates this <strong>for</strong>mulation with no conditioning agent.<br />
Since the ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets was introduced to the market in 2007 after finalizing the comparison of the other<br />
conditioning agents, professional half head tests have been conducted separately to compare the conditioning properties against<br />
two st<strong>and</strong>ards: Cetrimonium Chloride <strong>and</strong> Behentrimonium Chloride. The tests have been done by an independent test institute<br />
with 10 panelists by applying <strong>for</strong>mulations based on:<br />
• 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-25)<br />
• 5.5 % Cetearyl Alcohol<br />
• 2.0 % active quat<br />
• ad 100.0 % water<br />
• pH ad 4.5<br />
10
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