2 GAS ATTACK Any Saturday or Sunday Afternoon In Camp
GAS ATTACK Taking the Air at Asheville, the American Simla (By Private Richard E. Connell, Co. A, 102nd M. P.) Since Marco Polo, Doctor Cook, Elbert PIubbard, Julian Street, nor any other travel-writer of note had never, so far as I could find out, pilgrimaged to Asheville, Leff and I decided we would, so, one misty Saturday last week, we got passes from Lieutenant Baldwin, I borrowed Sergeant Max Averbeek's paris-green furlough leg- WKBm >R. gins, and Leff and I left for Asheville on the 4:30 train on the Southern Railroad. The trip up was very much like any other southern railroad trip—we were an hour late. An oriental-looking young man shared our section with us—it was a sort of stateroom, the only thing we could, get for the Saturday trains to Asheville are always jammed—and he had a morbid dread of fresh air, so he hermetically sealed us in with him, while he smoked a series of black gas-bombs, which Leff opined were called La Incineratoros. I mention this because any story about Asheville must necessarily be a story about air. This Leff and I found as soon as the train, drawn by two engines, puffed up the last mountain and brought us to Asheville. We noticed the air as soon as we stepped out of the station. You can't help it. One whiff of it makes a private feel like a general. Two whiffs—and you feel sorry for poor old John D. who has only sixty million a year between himself and the poor house. Three whiffs—and you ask somebody to page Jess Willard for you to bang about. Leff and I took about three billion whiffs! Each! Asheville Air. It is hard to describe Asheville air in ordinary terms, to compare it with ordinary sensations. Did you ever glide gently down a white coral lane of a balmy moonlit night, thru bowers of roses and sweet-peas, in a solid gold Rolls-Royce, with J. P. Morgan as your chauffeur, with Billie Burke fanning you with a fan made of apple-blossoms, and with Mary Pickford keeping your crystal goblet filled with Moet et Chandon, while the Boston Symphony, following in noiseless Fifth Avenue busses, jazzily playing, "This IS the LIFE!" That's the way Asheville air makes you feel! An Ozone Jag. Leff and I stood out in front of the station, gulping in the atmosphere. We had soon accumulated a regular ozone bun. The cares of life dropped from us. The stars ~ Land of the Sky GROVE PARK seemed nearer. Indeed, they were, for Asheville is half a mile high. We smiled, and bowed at all passing Ashevillians. We made screaming jests about everything we saw. I wish I could remember some of them. We took an automobile up to the Battery Park Hotel, which stood out on its hill the House of a Thousand like Incandescents—a great, rambling, much-piazzaed building, with nothing stiff or formal about it. It is called the Battery Park because it is situated on a hill where, in the civil war, the battery of General Porter boomed defiance. commands a magnificent view. Miles away across the valley rise Mt. Pisgah and the Rat, a mountain which gets its name from its striking resemblance to a rodent. One can see the wonderful Vanderbilt estate, Biltmore, in the hazy blue distance. Indeed, the story goes that Mrs. George It Vanderbilt, while passing through Asheville looked out from the porch of the Battery Park and became so enchanted by the vista that she bought thousands of acres, now the Biltmore estate. The next morning, Sunday, Leff and I stood on the very spot where she stood, and regretted that we could not buy a few square miles of landscape, but regrets are only momentary in Asheville, for all one needs to do is inhale deeply and the cool, pure air chases the glooms. Another story about the founding of Biltmore, is that Mr. Vanderbilt hired Immmmm INN. three experts to make a tour of the country to find what place in the temperate zone had the finest climate and could grow the greatest variety of trees, shrubs and flowers. This commission, so a fine old Southern judge told us, picked out Asheville. (Continued on page 8)