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Surface Modification of Cellulose Acetate with Cutinase and ...

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Chapter 1<br />

the yarn. The cellulase molecule binds to an exposed fibril on the surface <strong>of</strong> the yarn<br />

<strong>and</strong> hydrolyses it in a process know as 'Bio-Stonewashing', leaving the interior part <strong>of</strong><br />

the cotton fibre intact. When the cellulases partly hydrolyse the surface <strong>of</strong> the fibre, the<br />

indigo is partly removed <strong>and</strong> light areas are created. There are a number <strong>of</strong> cellulases<br />

available, each <strong>with</strong> its own special properties. These can be used either alone or in<br />

combination in order to obtain a specific look. Heikinhemo <strong>and</strong> collaborators<br />

demonstrated that Trichoderma reesei endoglucanase II was very effective removing<br />

color from denim, producing a good stonewashing effect <strong>with</strong> the lowest hydrolysis<br />

level (Heikinheimo et al., 2000). Later Miettinen-Oinonen <strong>and</strong> collaborators developed<br />

new genetically engineered T. reesei strains able to produce elevated amounts <strong>of</strong><br />

endoglucanase activity. Production <strong>of</strong> endoglucanase I <strong>and</strong> II was increased fourfold<br />

above that <strong>of</strong> the host strain, <strong>with</strong>out any production <strong>of</strong> cellobiohydrolases. Cellulase<br />

preparations derived by the new T. reesei overproduction strains proved to be more<br />

efficient for stonewashing process than the ones produced by parental strain (Miettinen-<br />

Oinonen <strong>and</strong> Suominen, 2002). Application research in this area is mainly focused on<br />

preventing or enhancing backstaining depending on the style required. Backstaining is<br />

defined as the redeposition <strong>of</strong> released indigo onto the garments. Cavaco-Paulo <strong>and</strong><br />

collaborators were the first group studying in detail the nature <strong>of</strong> indigo-cellulase-<br />

cellulose interactions (Cavaco-Paulo et al., 1998). These authors attribute the effect <strong>of</strong><br />

backstaining to the high affinity between indigo <strong>and</strong> cellulase <strong>and</strong> proved that the strong<br />

ability <strong>of</strong> cellulase enzymes to bind to cotton cellulose is the major cause <strong>of</strong><br />

backstaining (Cavaco-Paulo et al., 1998). Later, the affinity <strong>of</strong> cellulases from different<br />

fungal origins for insoluble indigo dye in the absence <strong>of</strong> cellulose was compared. The<br />

authors reported that acid cellulases from T. reesei have higher affinity for indigo than<br />

neutral cellulases <strong>of</strong> Humicola insolens (Campos et al., 2000). The same group studied<br />

the interactions <strong>of</strong> cotton <strong>with</strong> CBD peptides from family I <strong>and</strong> family II <strong>and</strong> they<br />

provided new highlights for tailoring cellulases when they found that truncated<br />

cellulases <strong>with</strong>out CBDs caused less backstaining than entire enzymes (Cavaco-Paulo et<br />

al., 1999; Andreaus et al., 2000). These authors had previously studied the effect <strong>of</strong><br />

temperature on the cellulose binding ability <strong>of</strong> cellulases from T. reesei <strong>and</strong> the<br />

14

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