Sep/Oct 2005 - Korean War Veterans Association

while we were moving south on the same
road. We continued on our schedule, walk
50 minutes, rest 10. At each rest stop we
would find Chinese soldiers. I would load
my pipe with tobacco, bum a light, and
then we would talk.
The conversation was basically the
same at each rest stop. There was much
humor, laughing and joking with each
other. It was very difficult to view them as
the enemy, although we knew the situation
could change at any moment.
We were subjected to the “search” by
the US Air Force 2 or 3 times each night.
Each time the “Air Raid Alert” was sounded,
everyone would immediately take
cover, often no more than lying down in a
ditch, if there was no snow, drawing our
legs up under our coat and hiding our face.
The color of the clothing would blend in
with the ground, grass and weeds. In a few
minutes the flare plane would arrive, kicking
out flares. It would be followed by a
light bomber. We were never bombed or
strafed, and I can only assume we were not
sighted.
Certainly, there were hundreds of
Chinese all along the road, including a significant
number of trucks and horse-drawn
conveyances. About five minutes after the
last plane passed, the “all clear” would
sound. The road would become a regular
beehive of movement by troops, trucks and
horses. This would continue until the next
air raid warning.
As we continued our journey, we began
to think about how, or where, we would
obtain food. We knew the Chinese troops
went into camp before daylight and did not
move again until dark. They would prepare
the morning meal shortly before daylight,
using wood fires. By the time of first light
they were all “sacked out” for the day. The
evening meal would be prepared near dark,
after the possibility of an attack by air had
passed. We finally decided, since our Safe
Conduct Pass was working so well, our
best bet for food was to find a unit going
into camp, walk into their area, show them
our pass, and tell them we would like to
have some food and spend the day with
them before continuing on our journey.
About 5:30 a.m. the morning of March
9, we found what appeared to be a battalion
setting up camp a short distance from the
road, in a grove of trees. We boldly walked
into their camp. As might be expected, we
When I took the package from the Chinese
soldier, it was very warm. This was a very
strange occurrence, and Captain Harrod
and I commented on the situation. We had
no idea what was in the package, but
decided we should open it and find out. If it
blew up, so be it.
were stopped by a sentry. We showed him
the Safe Conduct Pass, told him our story,
and said we would like to have something
to eat and would like to spend the day with
them. He told us to follow him. We were
stopped at the Battalion CP. There we told
our story again to a group of officers. They
were about to sit down to eat. Much to our
surprise, they invited us to join them. The
meal consisted of rice only, but they very
graciously shared it with us. During the
meal we made “small talk” with them and
they with us. Everyone was very congenial.
After the meal was finished we were taken
to a place where we could sleep. We were
cautioned about not moving into the open
during the day. We told them we knew all
about that and they could be assured we
would do absolutely nothing to expose our
position.
The Chinese began to stir and move
around shortly after noon, but never in the
open. We talked with several of them. The
conversations were the usual “soldier talk,”
wine, women and food being mentioned
quite often. Shortly before dark we were
taken to the Battalion CP again, where we
joined the officers in the evening meal.
After eating, we talked for a few minutes.
They were getting ready to move, and we
expressed our appreciation for their hospitality,
departed, and started walking down
the road.
The night of March 9 was a repeat of the
preceding night—walk 50 minutes, take a
10-minute break, smoke, talk with the
Chinese soldiers along the way, show the
Safe Conduct Pass, answer questions, take
cover from air raids, and walk some more.
I mentioned earlier that I had a parka. It
had large patch pockets on each side. I kept
my pipe and tobacco in the right pocket.
When we left the North Korean headquarters
in Chunchon, I had about the equivalent
of a Bull Durham sack of tobacco in
my pocket. At almost every break I would
be given more tobacco by the Chinese soldiers
with whom we visited during the
break. On several occasions I told them I
didn’t need any more tobacco, but they
insisted I take it, so I did. I certainly didn’t
want to offend anyone over a sack of tobacco.
When we reached the U.S. lines, my
parka pocket was overflowing with tobacco,
all of which had been given to me by
the Chinese soldiers we met along the way.
The morning of March 10 we walked
into a Chinese unit about 5:30 a.m. just as
we had the preceding morning, told them
our story, asked for food and permission to
spend the day with them. We had two good
meals, a good sleep, some conversation,
much as before, and, at dark, continued on
our way. We had been traveling two nights.
Each night the Chinese were moving north
while we were moving south.
The night of March 10 was a repeat of
the preceding two nights—same schedule,
same everything, except, now the Chinese
soldiers were telling us more details of how
far it was to the American lines. They
would tell us when we got to the American
lines we could get a jeep (their word) and
we wouldn’t have to walk any more. We
readily agreed that would be most welcome,
and I was very sincere. Remember, I
was faking a serious limp with my right
leg. If you don’t think that is tiring, try
walking 50 minutes without putting much
weight on one foot. Bet you are ready for a
break. Then do this for about 12 hours and
a jeep ride really sounds good. The morning
of March 11, after our third night of
walking south on the road between
Chunchon and Hongchon, we again found
a Chinese unit settling down for the day. As
before, we walked into their area, showed
our Safe Conduct Pass, told them where we
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The Graybeards September - October 2005