w h i t e w a t e r ⢠r i V e r ⢠s e a ⢠m u l t i s p o r t ... - Canoe & Kayak
w h i t e w a t e r ⢠r i V e r ⢠s e a ⢠m u l t i s p o r t ... - Canoe & Kayak w h i t e w a t e r ⢠r i V e r ⢠s e a ⢠m u l t i s p o r t ... - Canoe & Kayak
Exploring Fiji by Shelene Paraone What an adventure: Last winter, when out paddling one cold blustery day clutching our thermos of hot coffee, I remember a remark to Andy from Wellington Canoe & Kayak; “Wouldn’t it be nice to paddle somewhere warm for a change?” As the cold days rolled on, somehow the idea took hold. Andy spent more and more time thinking of the possibilities, and before long the momentum of a dream was carrying us away on its tides. Andy found a company called Tamarillo Tropical Expeditions, (www.tamarillo. co.nz) formed in 1996, set-up and operated by Anthony Norris, Marina, Mantovani and Ratu Joseva (a traditional chief in Kadavu). With traditional culture they guide kayaking adventures for all ages and abilities. We designed our own expedition, a nine-day 165km epic adventure circumnavigating Kadavu Island. Little did we know then, but our journey would take us through tranquil, smooth, clear blue waters to some extreme weather conditions, to unforgettable views and adventure mixed with delightful local culture, food, and entertainment. We would be left with an inspirational, unique feeling of traditional villages and lifestyle with all the natural beauty Kadavu people hold close to their hearts. As winter settled in nine enthusiasts from the Wellington Yakity Yak Club, joined by a couple from Auckland, one from the U.K and one from the U.S.A flew in to Vunisia (capital of Kadavu Island). We were met by Ratu and Anthony for a boat transfer to Tamarillo’s Kadavu Island Headquarters and traditional meeting house, Ratu’s coconut plantation and Homestead. First there were speeches. Ratu welcomed us, “Bula”. This is “Hello”. A gift of Kava root was presented with chants and claps to complete the ritual. We had experienced our first ceremonial welcome and the taste for Kava, Fiji’s traditional welcoming beverage …It is polite to accept two bowls. This custom was repeated every night at each village, creating a sense of total relaxation over your whole body. It was a great way to unwind from a long day’s paddle. We sat cross-legged on a woven mat in Ratu’s Traditional meetinghouse with mosquito nets strung and tied from the ceiling of the thatched roof. This was also our sleeping quarters. We tried our first Fijian delicacy, baked kasava (similar to our sweet potato) covered in a sweet brown sugary syrup… very tasty. A spread of local delicacies awaited us for dinner. This included stuffed crabs, fresh fish, taro, rice, and taro leaves mixed in coconut cream, with lemon tea to finish. Kerosene Lanterns enhanced the ambience of the whole culture dinner experience. (Some villages have generators, but torches came in handy). We paddled 20-25km (5-6hrs) daily in double and single kayaks. It was 30 degrees C when we set off in quest of adventure with four guides - Qase (pronounced Gus), Ephramie, and George, all Fijian and Nick a kiwi. Anthony was on the water with us, and Ratu was in the support boat, carrying our luggage, fresh coffee and food. The water was clear blue, and smooth. We heard the hypnotic continual deep hum of the surf folding and crashing on the distant reef. Andy brought a sail along. Attached to his kayak he moved through the water with very little effort. Definitely an ideal way to go. Gliding through the various shades of blue water we admired our surroundings, endless coconut trees, mangroves and tropical rainforest. There are lots of small villages, fanned with palm trees, along the coastline. The word “Bula” echoes from the shores as we passed the locals. We returned their friendly gesture with “Bula Morcea” (pronounced Morthea) hello and thank you. This was a regular occurrence throughout our journey. Lunch was on another white sandy beach. As on each day we had a range of food from roti stuffed with bjuja or corned beef, home made buns with either egg, tuna, banana, tamarillo jam, fresh fish with coconut cream, fresh coffee and coconuts. All these were lovingly prepared by the guides. Most days after lunch we could laze in the sun or go for a snorkel and be mesmerised by the impressive coral gardens and stunning coloured fish. On one particular day, to our surprise we saw a ‘dug out log of wood’ with a Fijian standing in the stern ‘paddling’ with a long pole, no blades attached. He cruised effortlessly and stepped on to the beach. “Bula” this young man greeted us. The dug out traditional canoe base is very rounded and the idea is you stand on the back edge for balance and use the pole to paddle. Another day we meet a met Rarumvabuka. He asked “Why did we want to spend all those hours in the water just paddling?” I guess it seemed unnecessary to paddle long stretches of ocean at a time. I smiled and said, Mt Nabukulevu and Cape Washington 14 ISSUE FORTYone • 2 0 0 7
“We wanted to explore how beautiful your Island is by kayak”. He just smiled and nodded. We stayed at eight different villages throughout our journey. Accommodation was a mix of camping, village resorts, bure’s, and community halls. Galoa Island Resort was our first destination. As we pulled up, we heard “We’ve been expecting you”. This was from Humphrey and Maraia the proud owners. Their hospitality was faultless. With more local delicacies and enchanting entertainment we sang, laughed and shared stories. Next day Humphrey sang a traditional farewell, while we waved and headed off round the coast. Muani Village was a charming little community. The children were first onto the beach to greet us. They looked in awe at our kayaks wanting to have a go, so Andy yelled, “Who wants to come for a paddle?” Two energetic kids bounded towards him and leapt in to the kayak. In the evening it was the adults’ turn. The moonlight was magical, it glowed on the calm water. With squeals of delight, and laughter we paddled in the bay for an hour. There is a school here for the near-by villages. We had the pleasure of being introduced to all the teachers and children from pre-school to intermediate. We learnt how their education system is run and had a sneak preview of what they are teaching. In strong headwinds, torrential rain with metre swells, getting to Daviqele Village was an interesting feat. We paddled into an inlet and stopped in front of the mangroves, I heard someone say “It’s a dead end. Where to now?”. We had to carry our kayaks 150m through the mangrove trees to the other side, bringing the village about 400metres away in sight. Ratu Aca is the village chief. In his day he played rugby for Fiji. He told us how he met Anthony many years ago, when Anthony and a friend surfed into his village on a big wave. Ratu Aca said “Anyone who could ride a wave that big and surf up to the shore without capsizing is more than welcome to stay here”. Anthony and his friend stayed for a week, and they have been friends ever since. The next day we rounded the western end of Kadavu Island and Kadavu’s tallest mountain Nabukulevu. Also known as Mt Washington it stands at 822 Metres high! The surf was rougher, so we headed a little further out to get round safely. True to the guides’ advice, by late morning the winds were 15+ kph, with a few gusts to 25kph. The sea went slowly and predictably from a smooth-faced ½ - 1 metre swell to more and more. We had time to settle into the rhythm and the more challenging paddling of the day. In 3 ½ to 4 ½ metre swells, we rolled, swayed, and watched the volume of water rolling before us. Some of us tried to get the most distance out of each wave by surfing the edge and riding with it, speeding at 8-12 knots down the face of the swells. The rides were fast and joyfully noisy, adrenaline on high. This was ocean kayaking at its best. Round the corner of the island the sea flattened out and lunch was a half km up the coastline. The rest of the afternoon was magnificent, dead flat, clear blue waters, and only a whisper of wind. Tavuki Village was one of the more traditional places in which we stayed. In 1988 Ratu Nacagilevu House was built. Meetings are held here by chiefs and elders from around Kadavu Island, to discuss important issues and make decisions. We were honoured to meet one of the elders Ratu Jone, who welcomed us with the Kava ceremony. We also had the pleasure of meeting Ratu Joseva’s sister Bulou Lusiana (the word Bulou is the feminine version to Ratu meaning chief) We arrived at Daku Village, and were honoured to be invited by the chief ‘Epi Ravono’ to his son Eprioni’s 21 st birthday party. It was an exquisite display of traditional culture. He was dressed in the formal tapa cloth wrap made by his mother, with a patterned shirt, lei and head dress. The party carried on until daylight. Having completed our circumnavigation of Kadavu Island, we left our kayaks at Ratu’s homestead and walked through the mangroves behind his place to Matava Resort. We should have been suspicious when someone said, “There would be a little mud”. It didn’t really register until we got to the start of the trees; there we were faced with a great expanse of black swamp mud. “ You are joking”, I heard “We’re not going through that are we?” Ephramie beamed a big smile, crossed his arms and strode off into the mud. For the next half hour we ploughed through knee deep. I heard Joy say, “ I know I’d wanted to trek but this wasn’t what I had in mind” Still it was a memorable end to the trip. We hosed ourselves down at the resort boat ramp and were looking forward to the hot shower we had been missing all week. Matava with its relaxing beach front bure’s, decks, hot showers and gorgeous views, complete with its charming maitre d’ called Maggie was a marvellous end to a captivating and challenging week. The great Astrolabe reef surrounds Kadavu’s exquisite coastline, impressive views, and lovely warm climate. It protects the white coral beaches from pounding Pacific swells and provides tranquil lagoons and passages, faultless bays and beaches. Its remote and unspoiled environment, around its immaculate clear, turquoise waters, is perfect for kayaking and cultural interaction. It’s an absolute must to see and experience. “Why wouldn’t you want to go there?” I say. Discover for yourself that wonderful heart warming feeling that soothes the soul. I really think that by seeing Fiji in its natural environment with all its raw features and beautiful people this was one of those truly special trips where you get more out of it than you thought. Having shared such an experience, with photos capturing all those memorable moments, this is most certainly an adventure I will do again. Plans are afoot for a return trip next year. The Kadavu Classic will run from July 6-12 2008. Travelling to Nadi on Saturday July 5 and home on Sunday July 13. This makes it a 9-day trip in total. This should require only 5 days leave from work for most people). Please contact Jim or Andy at Wellington@canoeandkayak.co.nz Another tough day in Fiji Brett Guilliard, Joy Tracey,Qeorge ,Andrea Pichler, Andy Lynch, Rachel Sutton,Gus, and Dani (USA) ISSUE FORTYone • 2007 15
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“We wanted to explore how beautiful your Island is by kayak”. He just smiled<br />
and nodded.<br />
We stayed at eight different villages throughout our journey. Accommodation<br />
was a mix of camping, village resorts, bure’s, and community halls. Galoa<br />
Island Resort was our first destination. As we pulled up, we heard “We’ve<br />
been expecting you”. This was from Humphrey and Maraia the proud owners.<br />
Their hospitality was faultless. With more local delicacies and enchanting<br />
entertainment we sang, laughed and shared stories. Next day Humphrey sang<br />
a traditional farewell, while we waved and headed off round the coast.<br />
Muani Village was a charming little community. The children were first onto the<br />
beach to greet us. They looked in awe at our kayaks wanting to have a go, so<br />
Andy yelled, “Who wants to come for a paddle?” Two energetic kids bounded<br />
towards him and leapt in to the kayak. In the evening it was the adults’ turn.<br />
The moonlight was magical, it glowed on the calm water. With squeals of<br />
delight, and laughter we paddled in the bay for an hour.<br />
There is a school here for the near-by villages. We had the pleasure of being<br />
introduced to all the teachers and children from pre-school to intermediate.<br />
We learnt how their education system is run and had a sneak preview of what<br />
they are teaching.<br />
In strong headwinds, torrential rain with metre swells, getting to Daviqele<br />
Village was an interesting feat. We paddled into an inlet and stopped in front<br />
of the mangroves, I heard someone say “It’s a dead end. Where to now?”. We<br />
had to carry our kayaks 150m through the mangrove trees to the other side,<br />
bringing the village about 400metres away in sight.<br />
Ratu Aca is the village chief. In his day he played rugby for Fiji. He told us<br />
how he met Anthony many years ago, when Anthony and a friend surfed into<br />
his village on a big wave. Ratu Aca said “Anyone who could ride a wave that<br />
big and surf up to the shore without capsizing is more than welcome to stay<br />
here”. Anthony and his friend stayed for a week, and they have been friends<br />
ever since.<br />
The next day we rounded the western end of Kadavu Island and Kadavu’s<br />
tallest mountain Nabukulevu. Also known as Mt Washington it stands at 822<br />
Metres high! The surf was rougher, so we headed a little further out to get<br />
round safely. True to the guides’ advice, by late morning the winds were 15+<br />
kph, with a few gusts to 25kph. The sea went slowly and predictably from a<br />
smooth-faced ½ - 1 metre swell to more and more. We had time to settle into<br />
the rhythm and the more challenging paddling of the day. In 3 ½ to 4 ½ metre<br />
swells, we rolled, swayed, and watched the volume of water rolling before<br />
us. Some of us tried to get the most distance out of each wave by surfing the<br />
edge and riding with it, speeding at 8-12 knots down the face of the swells.<br />
The rides were fast and joyfully noisy, adrenaline on high. This was ocean<br />
kayaking at its best.<br />
Round the corner of the island the sea flattened out and lunch was a half km<br />
up the coastline. The rest of the afternoon was magnificent, dead flat, clear<br />
blue waters, and only a whisper of wind.<br />
Tavuki Village was one of the more traditional places in which we stayed. In<br />
1988 Ratu Nacagilevu House was built. Meetings are held here by chiefs and<br />
elders from around Kadavu Island, to discuss important issues and make<br />
decisions. We were honoured to meet one of the elders Ratu Jone, who<br />
welcomed us with the Kava ceremony. We also had the pleasure of meeting<br />
Ratu Joseva’s sister Bulou Lusiana (the word Bulou is the feminine version to<br />
Ratu meaning chief)<br />
We arrived at Daku Village, and were honoured to be invited by the chief ‘Epi<br />
Ravono’ to his son Eprioni’s 21 st birthday party. It was an exquisite display<br />
of traditional culture. He was dressed in the formal tapa cloth wrap made by<br />
his mother, with a patterned shirt, lei and head dress. The party carried on<br />
until daylight.<br />
Having completed our circumnavigation of Kadavu Island, we left our kayaks<br />
at Ratu’s homestead and walked through the mangroves behind his place to<br />
Matava Resort. We should have been suspicious when someone said, “There<br />
would be a little mud”. It didn’t really register until we got to the start of the<br />
trees; there we were faced with a great expanse of black swamp mud. “ You<br />
are joking”, I heard “We’re not going through that are we?” Ephramie beamed<br />
a big smile, crossed his arms and strode off into the mud. For the next half hour<br />
we ploughed through knee deep. I heard Joy say, “ I know I’d wanted to trek<br />
but this wasn’t what I had in mind”<br />
Still it was a memorable end to the trip. We hosed ourselves down at the resort<br />
boat ramp and were looking forward to the hot shower we had been missing<br />
all week. Matava with its relaxing beach front bure’s, decks, hot showers and<br />
gorgeous views, complete with its charming maitre d’ called Maggie was a<br />
marvellous end to a captivating and challenging week.<br />
The great Astrolabe reef surrounds Kadavu’s exquisite coastline, impressive<br />
views, and lovely warm climate. It protects the white coral beaches from<br />
pounding Pacific swells and provides tranquil lagoons and passages,<br />
faultless bays and beaches. Its remote and unspoiled environment, around<br />
its immaculate clear, turquoise waters, is perfect for kayaking and cultural<br />
interaction. It’s an absolute must to see and experience. “Why wouldn’t you<br />
want to go there?” I say. Discover for yourself that wonderful heart warming<br />
feeling that soothes the soul.<br />
I really think that by seeing Fiji in its natural environment with all its raw<br />
features and beautiful people this was one of those truly special trips where<br />
you get more out of it than you thought. Having shared such an experience,<br />
with photos capturing all those memorable moments, this is most certainly<br />
an adventure I will do again.<br />
Plans are afoot for a return trip next year.<br />
The Kadavu Classic will run from July 6-12 2008. Travelling to Nadi on Saturday<br />
July 5 and home on Sunday July 13. This makes it a 9-day trip in total. This should<br />
require only 5 days leave from work for most people).<br />
Please contact Jim or Andy at Wellington@canoeandkayak.co.nz<br />
Another tough day in Fiji<br />
Brett Guilliard, Joy Tracey,Qeorge ,Andrea Pichler, Andy Lynch, Rachel<br />
Sutton,Gus, and Dani (USA)<br />
ISSUE FORTYone • 2007 15
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