w h i t e w a t e r • r i V e r • s e a • m u l t i s p o r t ... - Canoe & Kayak

Exploring Fiji by Shelene Paraone
What an adventure:
Last winter, when out paddling one cold blustery day clutching our thermos
of hot coffee, I remember a remark to Andy from Wellington Canoe & Kayak;
“Wouldn’t it be nice to paddle somewhere warm for a change?” As the cold
days rolled on, somehow the idea took hold. Andy spent more and more time
thinking of the possibilities, and before long the momentum of a dream was
carrying us away on its tides.
Andy found a company called Tamarillo Tropical Expeditions, (www.tamarillo.
co.nz) formed in 1996, set-up and operated by Anthony Norris, Marina,
Mantovani and Ratu Joseva (a traditional chief in Kadavu). With traditional
culture they guide kayaking adventures for all ages and abilities. We designed
our own expedition, a nine-day 165km epic adventure circumnavigating
Kadavu Island. Little did we know then, but our journey would take us through
tranquil, smooth, clear blue waters to some extreme weather conditions, to
unforgettable views and adventure mixed with delightful local culture, food,
and entertainment. We would be left with an inspirational, unique feeling of
traditional villages and lifestyle with all the natural beauty Kadavu people
hold close to their hearts.
As winter settled in nine enthusiasts from the Wellington Yakity Yak Club,
joined by a couple from Auckland, one from the U.K and one from the U.S.A
flew in to Vunisia (capital of Kadavu Island). We were met by Ratu and
Anthony for a boat transfer to Tamarillo’s Kadavu Island Headquarters and
traditional meeting house, Ratu’s coconut plantation and Homestead.
First there were speeches. Ratu welcomed us, “Bula”. This is “Hello”. A gift
of Kava root was presented with chants and claps to complete the ritual.
We had experienced our first ceremonial welcome and the taste for Kava,
Fiji’s traditional welcoming beverage …It is polite to accept two bowls. This
custom was repeated every night at each village, creating a sense of total
relaxation over your whole body. It was a great way to unwind from a long
day’s paddle.
We sat cross-legged on a woven mat in Ratu’s Traditional meetinghouse with
mosquito nets strung and tied from the ceiling of the thatched roof. This was
also our sleeping quarters. We tried our first Fijian delicacy, baked kasava
(similar to our sweet potato) covered in a sweet brown sugary syrup… very
tasty.
A spread of local delicacies awaited us for dinner. This included stuffed crabs,
fresh fish, taro, rice, and taro leaves mixed in coconut cream, with lemon tea to
finish. Kerosene Lanterns enhanced the ambience of the whole culture dinner
experience. (Some villages have generators, but torches came in handy).
We paddled 20-25km (5-6hrs) daily in double and single kayaks. It was 30
degrees C when we set off in quest of adventure with four guides - Qase
(pronounced Gus), Ephramie, and George, all Fijian and Nick a kiwi. Anthony
was on the water with us, and Ratu was in the support boat, carrying our
luggage, fresh coffee and food. The water was clear blue, and smooth. We
heard the hypnotic continual deep hum of the surf folding and crashing on
the distant reef. Andy brought a sail along. Attached to his kayak he moved
through the water with very little effort. Definitely an ideal way to go.
Gliding through the various shades of blue water we admired our surroundings,
endless coconut trees, mangroves and tropical rainforest. There are lots of
small villages, fanned with palm trees, along the coastline. The word “Bula”
echoes from the shores as we passed the locals. We returned their friendly
gesture with “Bula Morcea” (pronounced Morthea) hello and thank you. This
was a regular occurrence throughout our journey.
Lunch was on another white sandy beach. As on each day we had a range of
food from roti stuffed with bjuja or corned beef, home made buns with either
egg, tuna, banana, tamarillo jam, fresh fish with coconut cream, fresh coffee
and coconuts. All these were lovingly prepared by the guides. Most days after
lunch we could laze in the sun or go for a snorkel and be mesmerised by the
impressive coral gardens and stunning coloured fish.
On one particular day, to our surprise we saw a ‘dug out log of wood’ with a
Fijian standing in the stern ‘paddling’ with a long pole, no blades attached.
He cruised effortlessly and stepped on to the beach. “Bula” this young man
greeted us. The dug out traditional canoe base is very rounded and the idea
is you stand on the back edge for balance and use the pole to paddle.
Another day we meet a met Rarumvabuka. He asked “Why did we want
to spend all those hours in the water just paddling?” I guess it seemed
unnecessary to paddle long stretches of ocean at a time. I smiled and said,
Mt Nabukulevu and Cape Washington
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