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Stoke It — and Smoke<br />

It!<br />

You Will Find the Flavor<br />

to Your<br />

Liking<br />

TRY<br />

SMOKING<br />

YOUR FISH<br />

Smoke and salt, either singly or in<br />

combination, have long been used in<br />

the preservation and preparation <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>fish</strong> for human consumption.<br />

As early as 2,000 B.C., people along<br />

the River Bann in Northern Ireland<br />

smoked fresh-caught salmon over crude<br />

hearths on the marshy flats beside the<br />

river. The use <strong>of</strong> salt came somewhat<br />

later in history. Among the first to use<br />

it extensively were the Egyptians who<br />

depicted their <strong>fish</strong>-salting process on<br />

the walls <strong>of</strong> the ancient tombs.<br />

With the advent <strong>of</strong> refrigeration,<br />

brining and <strong>smoking</strong> <strong>of</strong> meat and <strong>fish</strong><br />

were no longer necessary. Nonetheless,<br />

the techniques remain today as the<br />

best methods <strong>of</strong> preparing less tasty<br />

Too many cooks? Not so when it<br />

comes to <strong>smoking</strong> <strong>fish</strong>! This article<br />

is a "composite" <strong>of</strong> the <strong>fish</strong><br />

<strong>smoking</strong> techniques and experiences<br />

<strong>of</strong> the DNR's Howard<br />

Krosch, Jack Skrypek, Walter<br />

Wettschreck, Ken Bonnema and<br />

Bruce Hawkinson, as related to<br />

associate editor Charles Wechsler.<br />

MARCH • APRI L 1974 45


<strong>fish</strong> species or those with oily flesh.<br />

These <strong>smoking</strong> "favorites" include<br />

carp, cat<strong>fish</strong>, suckers, salmon, trout,<br />

herring, tullibee and numerous saltwater<br />

species.<br />

No doubt most anglers have, at one<br />

time or another, wanted to <strong>try</strong> smokehouse<br />

cookery but were reluctant to<br />

attempt<br />

what they believe to be a<br />

complex cooking technique. However,<br />

brining and <strong>smoking</strong> <strong>fish</strong> can be as<br />

easy or as difficult as you make it. Certainly<br />

there are as many "home patented"<br />

smokehouse techniques and<br />

gadgets as there are people who smoke<br />

<strong>fish</strong>. This article is not an attempt to<br />

enlighten these self-taught<br />

"connoisseurs",<br />

but rather to present a simplified,<br />

step-by-step procedure for the beginner.<br />

The Smoker<br />

Many types <strong>of</strong> manufactured or<br />

home-made smokers will produce<br />

excellent results. Your smoker may be<br />

a wooden barrel, a large fibreboard<br />

box, steel drum or a discarded refrigerator.*<br />

Amateurs can purchase portable<br />

outdoor<br />

smokers, small electric hotplate<br />

units or even convert the patio<br />

fireplace into a suitable <strong>smoking</strong> unit.<br />

•Note: Modern, plastic-lined refrigerators<br />

should not be used as the plastic could melt<br />

with the fumes spoiling <strong>your</strong> food. Use only<br />

steel-lined iceboxes and refrigerators. Also,<br />

do not use the racks in old iceboxes. They<br />

may be cadmium-plated and food could<br />

absorb highly toxic cadmium during the<br />

<strong>smoking</strong> process.<br />

Cross-sectional view <strong>of</strong> homemade<br />

<strong>fish</strong> smoker: 55 gallon oil<br />

drum with ends removed, connected<br />

by drain tile to fire pit<br />

six feet away. Pit is one to two<br />

feet lower than smoker. Simple<br />

trench covered by sheet metal<br />

and dirt may be used to convey<br />

smoke. Move smoker cover to<br />

regulate draft.<br />

(Lack <strong>of</strong> space prohibits us from<br />

publishing detailed plans for constructing<br />

a smokehouse. However, anyone<br />

interested may write: <strong>Minnesota</strong><br />

<strong>Department</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Natural</strong> Resources,<br />

Bureau <strong>of</strong> Information and Education,<br />

350 Centennial Bldg., St. Paul, Minn.<br />

55155.)<br />

The smoker should have racks,<br />

hooks (S-hooks can be made from<br />

large paper clips or coat hangers) or<br />

even spring-type clothespins to hold<br />

the <strong>fish</strong> in such a way that smoke and<br />

heat will contact all food surfaces<br />

evenly. Ventilation must be carefully<br />

controlled so the fire smoulders and<br />

smokes, rather than burning with a<br />

smokeless flame.<br />

A thermometer should be suspended<br />

from the top <strong>of</strong> the smoker. In<br />

46 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER


Cleaning<br />

Fish may be cleaned any number <strong>of</strong><br />

ways. Large <strong>fish</strong> (over 5 pounds) such<br />

as Coho and Chinook Salmon, carp,<br />

buffalo, cat<strong>fish</strong> and larger trout are<br />

usually filleted or split from the back<br />

into what is called a "butterfly" cut.<br />

Very large <strong>fish</strong> should be sliced crosswise<br />

into large chunks. Smaller species<br />

such as Brook Trout, suckers, bullheads,<br />

herring and Tullibee may simply<br />

be gilled, gutted and washed.<br />

Remember: no matter how you<br />

clean the <strong>fish</strong>, always leave the skin<br />

intact, with scales on.<br />

general, the food to be smoked should<br />

be at least four feet away from a wood<br />

fire and at least two feet away from a<br />

sawdust or chip fire (see illustration).<br />

Each smokehouse expert has a<br />

favorite fuel or combination <strong>of</strong> fuels.<br />

In the beginning, <strong>try</strong> chips or sawdust<br />

from any nonresinous woods such as<br />

oak, ash, hickory, maple, beech, alder,<br />

apple or all fruit woods. Charcoal briquets<br />

can be added to maintain an<br />

even fire. Some experts use an electric<br />

or gas plate as a heat source and place<br />

a pan <strong>of</strong> dampened sawdust over the<br />

heat to create smoke.<br />

The entire <strong>smoking</strong> procedure consists<br />

<strong>of</strong> five basic steps: (1) Cleaning;<br />

(2) Brining; (3) Drying (removing excess<br />

moisture); (4) Smoking; (5) Serving<br />

or Storing.<br />

Brining<br />

The salt brine solution in which the<br />

<strong>fish</strong> is immersed acts as a preservative<br />

which inhibits bacterial growth. Most<br />

bacteria are retarded by five percent<br />

salt or higher concentrations.<br />

Any plastic, ceramic or stainless<br />

steel container may be used for brining.<br />

Do not use aluminum or galvanized<br />

pans which may corrode. For<br />

the beginner, the brining process may<br />

require some experimentation until<br />

you find the right application for each<br />

size and species <strong>of</strong> <strong>fish</strong>.<br />

A popular and simple brining procedure<br />

is to place the <strong>fish</strong> in a brine<br />

solution made in the ratio <strong>of</strong> 2 cups<br />

(about 1 pound) <strong>of</strong> noniodized, canning<br />

salt to 1 gallon <strong>of</strong> water for 1<br />

hour, stirring occasionally to remove<br />

blood and slime.<br />

MARCH • APRI L 1974 47


At left, tullibee fillets<br />

before and after <strong>smoking</strong>.<br />

Rinse the <strong>fish</strong> in cold water and<br />

place in a second brine made in the<br />

ratio <strong>of</strong> 1/2 cups <strong>of</strong> salt to 1 gallon <strong>of</strong><br />

water for 20-48 hours. Length <strong>of</strong> time<br />

in the solution will depend on size and<br />

thickness <strong>of</strong> the <strong>fish</strong>, amount <strong>of</strong> fat<br />

and degree <strong>of</strong> cure you wish to obtain.<br />

Other ingredients such as brown sugar,<br />

black pepper or bay leaves may be<br />

added during the second brining to<br />

enhance color and taste.<br />

Fish may also be brined by drysalting.<br />

Place the <strong>fish</strong> in a shallow container<br />

<strong>of</strong> fine salt and dredge, so that it<br />

is salt-covered on all surfaces. Next,<br />

place the salt-laden <strong>fish</strong> in another<br />

container where salt should be scattered<br />

between each layer <strong>of</strong> <strong>fish</strong>. Leave<br />

the <strong>fish</strong> in the salt for 6-12 hours (6<br />

hours if split or 1 2 if whole).<br />

Drying<br />

Remove the <strong>fish</strong> from the brine,<br />

rinse in freshwater and hang in a cool,<br />

breezy place for about 3 hours, or<br />

until a thin glaze, or pellicle, has<br />

formed on the surface. Do not hang<br />

<strong>fish</strong> where they are exposed to direct<br />

sunlight.<br />

Formation <strong>of</strong> the pellicle is very<br />

important in the <strong>smoking</strong> process. It<br />

helps seal in natural juices and flavors<br />

<strong>of</strong> the flesh and forms a smooth,<br />

attractive surface on which the smoke<br />

will be deposited evenly.<br />

If <strong>fish</strong> are smoked before a pellicle<br />

48 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER


Using Army surplus field<br />

range materials, Howard Krosch<br />

improvised this backyard smoker.<br />

Smokehouse is on slight slope<br />

above fire pit.<br />

is formed, natural juices will seep out<br />

resulting in pools <strong>of</strong> unattractive white<br />

curd. A well-formed pellicle gives a<br />

glossy sheen to the <strong>fish</strong>, and it is dry<br />

and smooth to the touch.<br />

It is important to note that the<br />

<strong>smoking</strong> process should not be started<br />

during rainy or extremely damp<br />

weather. Cool, clear, dry days are<br />

important to the success <strong>of</strong> <strong>your</strong><br />

smokehouse cookery.<br />

Smoking<br />

Fish may be either cold smoked or<br />

hot smoked. However, cold <strong>smoking</strong> is<br />

usually not feasible for most persons<br />

because <strong>of</strong> the extended time required<br />

to complete the process. For this reason,<br />

we will present only a simplified,<br />

hot smoke procedure.<br />

First step is to hang the <strong>fish</strong>, tail<br />

up, or place them on the smokehouse<br />

racks skin side down. The racks should<br />

be sprayed with "Pam" or some other<br />

teflon substance to prevent sticking.<br />

Be sure to arrange the <strong>fish</strong> so they do<br />

not touch, and will not drip onto each<br />

other.<br />

Smoke the <strong>fish</strong> from 2 to 4 hours at<br />

low temperatures (about 110 to 120<br />

degrees) and in heavy smoke. Next,<br />

introduce higher temperatures<br />

(160-180 degrees) and little or no<br />

smoke for about 2 hours. Length <strong>of</strong><br />

cooking time in this second step depends<br />

on size <strong>of</strong> the <strong>fish</strong>, color and<br />

flavor you wish to achieve.<br />

After <strong>smoking</strong>, allow the <strong>fish</strong> to cool<br />

briefly in the smokehouse and then<br />

chill. For the ultimate in flavor, <strong>fish</strong><br />

should be eaten soon after <strong>smoking</strong>.<br />

However, smoked <strong>fish</strong> may be refrigerated<br />

for up to two weeks. Do not keep<br />

the food in air-tight containers under<br />

poor refrigeration or spoilage may result.<br />

These poor conditions favor the<br />

development <strong>of</strong> botulism toxin.<br />

If you wish to store smoked <strong>fish</strong> for<br />

a prolonged period, they may be frozen.<br />

Fish to be frozen should have the<br />

heads left on to minimize the amount<br />

<strong>of</strong> flesh exposed to the air. They<br />

should also be well-wrapped with several<br />

layers <strong>of</strong> paper to prevent the<br />

smokey odor from permeating other<br />

frozen foods.<br />

•<br />

MARCH • APRI L 1974 49

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