HYDRACTIN Moisture & Energy - Kinetik

HYDRACTIN ® 

Moisture & Energy

Table of contents 

1 Introduction 3 

2 Active Principle 4 

2.1 The Stratum Granulosum 5 

2.2 Supply of Active Substances 6 

2.3 Biopolymers from Algae 7 

2.4 HYDRACTIN ® , a Concept 7 

3 Efficacy Tests 8 

3.1 Immediate Skin Moisturization 8 

3.2 Long-term Moisturization 9 

4 Use and Storage 10 

4.1 Summary 10 

4.2 Areas of Use 10 

4.3 Origin of the Substances 10 

4.4 Suggestions for Storage 10 

4.5 Suggestions for Use 10 

4.6 Suggested Usage Concentrations 10 

5 Specification 11 

5.1 Product Specification 11 

6 Registration and Description 12 

6.1 INCI Name 12 

6.2 Registration and Contents 12 

6.3 Other Substances 12 

7 Toxicology and Safety Assessment 13 

7.1 Toxicology 13 

7.2 Environmental Toxicology 13 

7.3 Water Hazard Class 14 

7.4 Safety Assessment 14 

8 Test Emulsions and their Effects 15 

8.1 Product Description 15 

8.2 Recipe DAY 0403 15 

8.3 Production of Emulsion 16 

8.4 Stability Data 16 

8.5 Efficacy of Cream M/11 and DAY 0403 17 

8.6 Summary 18 

9 Bibliography 19 

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HYDRACTIN ® │ Moisture & Energy

1 Introduction 

The skin makes use of a sophisticated defense system in order to protect itself from adverse 

influences and from excessive loss of moisture. 

The multi-layered membrane which is responsible for hindering almost all loss of water from the 

skin and the intrusion of chemicals is not located at the the skin’s surface. It is located within the 

lower levels of the corneal layer (Stratum corneum). 

The tissues located below this membrane contain most of the skin's moisture. The water content of 

these cells is around 70-80%. The moisture content of the corneal layer at 10%, is significantly 

lower. The outer part of the corneal layer only contains 2% water. 

As the smoothness and consequently the appearance of the skin depend on the presence of 

sufficient amounts of water, the ability to keep the moisture level within the corneal layer is of 

paramount physiological importance. Whenever the corneal layer dries out, it becomes brittle and 

looses elasticity. The substances which, in conjunction with water, build a nearly water-resistant 

multi-layered barrier become brittle as the water content diminishes. This process leads to an 

increase of water permeability. This effect can be compensated by adding moisture but not by 

adding fatty substances. Therefore, it is necessary to provide the corneal layer with active cosmetic 

substances that are able to overcome deficiencies as well as able to activate the biochemical 

processes. 

HYDRACTIN ® is now available to the cosmetics industry. This product is an innovative active 

ingredient which can intensively moisturise dry skin with a long lasting effect. 

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2 Active Principle 

The corneal layer (Stratum corneum) plays a fundamental role in regulating the skin’s moisture 

level. The corneal layer is the upper outside layer of the epidermis, and thus builds a protective 

layer. The hardened keratinized cells and the barrier lipids build a brick wall type of structure that 

protects the skin from invading foreign substances and prevents water from the inside to 

evaporate. This barrier is thus a vital area whose roles are protecting the skin and keeping it 

healthy. 

Area of activity 

HYDRACTIN ® 

The vital role played by the corneal layer in regulating skin moisture raises the question of how to 

influence the formation of the corneal layer itself in a positive way. 

The most important steps in building the corneal layer take place within the layer below, that is the 

granular layer (Stratum granulosum). Therefore, it is important to understand that layer better. 

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2.1 The Stratum Granulosum 

This layer is the location of many rapid metabolic processes. It is within this layer that cell formation 

and cell death take place. The densely built corneal layer results from the transformation of cells of 

the epidermis containing water while building and excreting barrier lipids As a result, the cell 

structure changes into rigid, flattened keratin filaments. 

In order to carry out such complex metabolic processes, large amounts of energy are required. 

Energy is available primarily from the most powerful chemical entity of cell metabolism, adenosine 

triphosphate (ATP). 

ATP ADP + P + Energy (approx. 30kJ/mol) 

ATP is broken up into adenosine diphosphate (ADP) and energy, and in a subsequent step even 

into adenosine monophosphate (AMP). Similarly, as with batteries, both ADP and AMP are 

charged to ATP within the mitochondria, the energy generators within the cell. 

Impressive in-vivo studies by K. Schrader and S. Bielfeldt demonstrated that a lotion containing 

ATP applied to the skin significantly increases both the long-term and the short-term moisture 

retention capability of the skin. In addition, a considerable improvement in skin texture was 

achieved, probably due to an increase in moisture in the skin. In that study, the increase of skin 

moisture could clearly be attributed to the activation of biochemical processes. However, the 

individual reactions involved not elucidated. 

Structure of the ATP molecule 

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2.2 Supply of Active Substances 

A complete woman's face cleansing includes weekly peeling. Most men are unaware of the fact 

that this type of removal of detached keratinocytes occurs while shaving. Razors used for both dry 

andwet shaving do remove the cells of the corneal layer, thus resulting in a soft peeling. 

Keratinolytics are substances which aid the softening and detaching of flat fused cells, thus 

enabling active substances and skin care substances to access the inside of the skin. A uniform 

skin surface lets the skin appear fresh and smooth. 

The Papaya fruit contains the enzyme papain and extraordinarily high amounts of vital substances 

such as beta carotene and vitamins as well as glucosides and trace elements. Papain is a 

particularly mild keratinolytic. In fact, as opposed to fruit acids, papain is already active at neutral 

pH values. It fosters the access of active substances to the skin and of skin care substances 

through a particularly soft peeling effect without causing skin irritation. The skin obtains new 

freshness and an attractive appearance. 

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2.3 Biopolymers from Algae 

In order to complete the HYDRACTIN ® moisturizing concept, a polysaccharide from the brown 

algae is added. It builds a thin film on the skin which reduces the loss of moisture. Due to its size, 

this biopolymer cannot penetrate the skin. However, it builds a soft net-like protecting film which 

reduces the natural evaporation of water from the skin. 

2.4 HYDRACTIN ® , a Concept 

HYDRACTIN ® is an optimized system for the physical and biochemical support of the skin. 

All substances included in this system are of natural origin and have been scientifically tested as to 

their efficacy and safety. The excellent efficacy of HYDRACTIN ® for enhancing skin moisturization 

was also demonstrated with an in-vivo study against a placebo involving 16 people. Both the shortand 

the long-term moisturizing effects were tested. 

HYDRACTIN ® is a unique cosmetic active ingredient which is effective on 

three levels: 

‣ As an energy source stimulating and activating the cellular 

metabolism, leading to a significant increase of skin moisture 

‣ Reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) 

‣ Vital substances from the papaya provide the skin with new 

freshness and beauty 

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3 Efficacy Tests 

3.1 Immediate Skin Moisturization 

The immediate moisturization effect of HYDRACTIN ® was tested on 16 people by an independent 

laboratory. Test emulsion M/10 (without HYDRACTIN ® ), M/11 (with 3% HYDRACTIN ® ) and DAY 

0403 (with 6% HYDRACTIN ® ) were applied to the skin. The moisture level of the skin was 

measured with a corneometer after 0, 1, 3, and 5 hours. 

The diagram depicts the percentage increase of skin moisture against a placebo for 

HYDRACTIN ® at concentrations of 3% and 6%. 

The measurement at hour zero indicates the skin moisture level before HYDRACTIN ® was applied. 

After the time intervals of 1, 3, and 5 hours, the values measured with M/10 (placebo) were 

deducted from the values measured with HYDRACTIN ® in order to obtain the real moisturization 

effect of HYDRACTIN ® at concentrations of 3% and 6% in the cream. 

The increase of moisturization 

1 hour after application is: 

18% with 3% HYDRACTIN ® 

and even 39% with 6% HYDRACTIN ® ! 

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3.2 Long-term Moisturization 

A long-term study of 16 people was carried out spanning a period of 28 days. Application of the 

emulsions M/10, M/11, and DAY 0403 to the skin was repeated daily. On day 28, skin 

moisturization was measured with a corneometer 12 hours after the last application. 

As above, the diagram depicts the percentage increase of skin moisturization due to HYDRACTIN ® 

at concentrations of 3% and 6% against a placebo. 

The measurement at hour zero indicates the skin moisture level before HYDRACTIN ® was applied. 

After 28 days, the value measured with M/10 (placebo) was deducted from the values measured 

with HYDRACTIN ® in order to obtain the real moisturization effect of HYDRACTIN ® at 

concentrations of 3% and 6% in the cream. 

The increase of moisturization 

28 days after application is: 

11% with 3% HYDRACTIN ® 

and even 17% with 6% HYDRACTIN ® ! 

The results were obtained 12 hours after 

the last application of the test emulsion. 

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4 Use and Storage 

4.1 Summary 

The individual components in HYDRACTIN ® are synergistically balanced active substances. They 

meet the need for a positive and lasting moisturization of the skin. In addition, the hydrated skin 

yields a radiant youthful appearance. 

4.2 Areas of Use 

♦ Day skin care ♦ Body lotion 

♦ Night skin care ♦ Hand care 

♦ Moisturizing fluid ♦ After sun products 

4.3 Origin of the Substances 

HYDRACTIN ® is of botanical and biotechnological origin. It does not contain any animal-derived 

substances or any substances derived from mineral oils. 

4.4 Suggestions for Storage 

HYDRACTIN ® should be stored at a low temperature (4°C) away from light. Shelf life is 24 month 

after production. 

4.5 Suggestions for Use 

The use of a complexing agent such as EDTA in formulations is recommended. Heavy metals 

interfere with both papain and ATP. It is recommended that the pH of the final product is greater 

than 6.0, at lower pH conditions ATP is reduced to ADP. 

4.6 Suggested Usage Concentrations 

2% - 8% 

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5 Specification 

5.1 Product Specification 

Test Parameter Test Equipment Specification Value 

Appearance TP 063 Yellowish, almost clear solution 

Odor TP 063 Characteristic 

Consistency TP 063 Liquid 

pH-Value, direct TP 006 6.2 – 7.0 

Refraction index 20°C TP 044 1.438 – 1.445 

Density 20°C TP 007 1.204 – 1.214 g/ml 

Centrifuge TP 042 No visible separation 

Total plate count TP 032 < 50 cfu/g 

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6 Registration and Description 

6.1 INCI Name 

EU: Glycerin, Aqua, Disodium Adenosine Trisphosphate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Algin 

USA: Glycerin, Water, Disodium Adenosine Trisphosphate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Algin 

Japan: Glycerin, Water, Disodium Adenosine Trisphosphate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Algin 

6.2 Registration and Contents 

INCI EU Content in % CAS-Nr. EINECS-Nr. 

Glycerin > 50 56-81-5 200-289-5 

Aqua 10 – 25 7732-18-5 231-791-2 

Disodium 

Adenosine 

Triphosphate 

1-5 987-65-5 213-579-1 

Algin 0.1-1 9005-38-3 Polymer 

Carica Papaya Fruit 

Extract 

0.1-1 84012-30-6 281-675-0 

6.3 Other Substances 

0.50% Phenoxyethanol is added to preserve HYDRACTIN ® . 

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7 Toxicology and Safety Assessment 

7.1 Toxicology 

Test Parameter Test Method Assessment 

Oral toxicity Inform. from literature Not toxic * 

Skin irritation 

Rep. human patch test with 30 people 

using 20% aqueous solution 

Not irritating 

Eye Irritation BECAM test (in-vitro), undiluted Slightly irritating 

Sensitization 

Photo toxicity 

Rep. human patch test with 30 people 

using 20% aqueous solution 

Photo patch test with 50 people using 

20% aqueous solution 

Not sensitizing 

Not photo toxic 

Mutagenicity AMES test (in-vitro), undiluted Not mutagenic 

* Oral toxicity is defined as non-toxic based on literature sources that refer to the LD50 for glycerol 

of >2 g/kg, for algin of >5 g/kg and for ATP of >0.25 g/kg. The papaya fruit is a foodstuff and thus 

not considered toxic. In view of individual usage concentrations, an assessment of non-toxicity is 

considered appropriate. However, an exact oral toxicity assessment was not carried out. 

7.2 Environmental Toxicology 

Test Parameter Test Method Assessment 

Biol. Degradability OECD 301 F Readily biodegradable 

Daphnia limit test 100 mg/Liter, 48 

hours 

Not toxic 

In all likelihood, HYDRACTIN ® will not have any environmental toxicological impact. Its 

Bioaccumulation can be ruled out as HYDRACTIN ® is soluble in water and biodegradable. 

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7.3 Water Hazard Class 

Substance Information from Literature Assessment 

Glycerol Merck Index WHC 0 

Water None WHC 0 

ATP Merck Index WHC 1 

Algin Information from producer / 

research study 

WHC 1 

Papaya extract none unknown 

As the papaya fruit is a foodstuff, its consumption is harmless. Therefore, the addition of papaya 

extract is not considered devaluating. The good biological degradability and the non-toxicity as 

determined with the Daphnia limit test confirmed these assumptions. 

For these reasons, HYDRACTIN ® is assessed as a product with the water hazard value 1. 

7.4 Safety Assessment 

HYDRACTIN ® can be classified as harmless based on comprehensive toxicological data and 

environmental toxicological information. During testing, neither irritating nor toxic characteristics of 

any kind emerged. No single irritation was detected during efficacy testing on 16 people during a 

28 day period. 

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8 Test Emulsions and their Effects 

Efficacy tests were conducted using a light non-fatty base, as required by modern day care 

creams. The stability tests and the physical parameters of the test cream DAY 0403 are listed 

below. 

8.1 Product Description 

White emulsion, pH value of 6.7, viscosity of approximately 60,000 mPas 

centrifugation at 6,000 rev/min (20 min.): No separation 

8.2 Recipe DAY 0403 

Phase Substance INCI Name % [w/w] 

A Water demin. Aqua 72.25 

B Sisterna SP 30 C Sucrose Distearate 2.70 

Sisterna SP 70 C Sucrose Stearate 0.90 

Cetiol OE Dicaprylyl Ether 5.00 

Myritol 312 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4.00 

Cegesoft C24 Octyl Palmitate 7.00 

Uniphen 

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, 

Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, 

Butylparaben 

1.00 

C Carbopol ETD 2001 Carbomer 0.15 

Carbopol ETD 2050 Carbomer 0.10 

D NaOH solution 10% Sodium Hydroxide, Aqua 0.75 

E Perf. Merveille 21 385 A Perfume 0.15 

F HYDRACTIN ® Glycerin, Aqua, Disodium Adenosine 

Triphosphate, Algin, 

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract 

6.00 

---------- 

100.00 

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8.3 Production of Emulsion 

1) Prepare water, heat to 75°C 

2) Mix substances of Phase B and stir until the oils moisten the surfactant, then heat to 75°C 

3) Just before emulgation takes place, disperse Phase C into the hot Phase B 

4) Absorb Phase B/C into Phase A, homogenize slightly 

5) Add Phase D to the above mixture and homogenize strongly 

6) Cool to 40°C, stirring constantly 

7) While stirring, add Phases E and F, homogenize slightly 

8) Cool to 30°C, stirring constantly 

8.4 Stability Data 

The emulsion DAY 0403 should reach a droplet size of 1-10 micrometers. 

The following results were obtained with heat stability tests conducted with that emulsion: 

After 1 month After 2 months After 3 months 

at 3°C OK OK OK 



at 50°C OK Increase of droplet size Separation 

Temperature stability tests resulted in no changes in droplet size, viscosity or pH levels except at 

50°C. 

After one month, no changes occurred at 50°C. After two months an increase of droplet size was 

observed. This increase led to the separation of the emulsion after 3 months. 

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8.5 Efficacy of Cream M/11 and DAY 0403 

The moisturization effect of M/11 and DAY 0403 was determined in a test involving 16 people. The 

following diagram depicts the averages of short- and long-term moisturization compared to 

untreated skin. Values for creams M/11 and DAY 0403 are reported as percentage increase of skin 

moisture. The cream M/11 was produced by the same procedure as cream DAY 0403. However, 

the former only contains half the amounts of HYDRACTIN ® , that is 3%. 

DAY 0403 

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HYDRACTIN ® │ Moisture & Energy 

DAY 0403

8.6 Summary 

The only difference between the creams M/11 and DAY 0403 is the content of HYDRACTIN ® . 

Production procedures and cream consistency are identical and the stability data are 

interchangeable. 

A significant increase in skin moisturization with both emulsions was observed in the efficacy 

studies carried out with 16 people. The key results for each individual emulsion are summarized 

below: 

Skin moisturization with cream M/11 compared to untreated skin increased 

by 21% 1 hour after application 

Skin moisturization with cream applied daily for a period of 28 days compared to 

untreated skin increased by 18% 12 hours after the last application 

Skin moisturization with cream DAY 0403 compared to untreated skin increased 

by 43% 1 hour after application 

Skin moisturization with cream applied daily for a period of 28 days compared to 

untreated skin increased by 24% 12 hours after the last application 

The test recipe was developed within the constraints of stability, skin texture and absorption to 

meet the demands of a modern facial cream. The above test results for increased moisturization 

are transferable to formulations that are modified slightly. 

These results for efficacy and stability can be extended to similar formulations. Considerable 

savings are possible due to shorter development cycles and avoidance of costly efficacy studies. 

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9 Bibliography 

‣ Hydratation der Haut-medizinische Notwendigkeit oder kosmetisches Werbeargument?, 

Hagen Tronnier, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, Nr. 2/87 

‣ Lexikon der Biochemie und Molekularbiologie, Herder Verlag, 1991 

‣ Benninghoff Anatomie, Makroskopische Anatomie, Band 2, 15. Auflage 1994, 

Urban und Schwarzenberg Verlag 

‣ Biochemie, D. Voet and J.G. Voet, Deutsche Übersetzung 1994, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft 

‣ Cytologie, Histologie und mikr. Anatomie, Otto Bucher und Hubert Wartenberg, 

12. Auflage 1997, Verlag Hans Huber 

‣ In-vivo-Regulation der Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit, M. Gloor/T. Scheer, Ärztliche Kosmetologie 

19, 1989, G. Braun-Verlag Zeitschriften Karlsruhe 

‣ Die sagenhafte Heilkraft der Papaya, Harald W. Tietze, Falkentaschenbuch 

‣ Römpp Chemie Lexikon, 9. Auflage, Thieme Verlag 1989 

‣ Multiaktive Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika, Heinz Eggensperger, Verlag für chemische Industrie, 

Augsburg 

‣ Taschenbuch der Drogenkunde, Heinz A. Hoppe, Walter de Gruyter, 1981 

‣ Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients, Second Edition, Leung and Foster, John 

Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1996 

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RAHN AG 

Dörflistrasse 120 

CH-8050 Zürich 

Tel. +41 44 315 42 00 

Fax +41 44 315 42 45 

Cosmetics@rahn-group.com 

www.rahn-group.com 

RAHN GmbH 

Hahnstrasse 70 

DE-60528 Frankfurt am Main 

Tel. 0800 1 816 015 

Fax 0800 1 816 016 

RAHN (UK) Ltd. 

75 Park Road 

GB-Peterborough PE1 2TN 

Tel. 0800 0 323 743 

Fax 0800 0 323 744 

RAHN USA Corp. 

1005 North Commons Drive 

Aurora US-Illinois 60504 

Tel. +1 630 851 42 20 

Fax +1 630 851 48 63 

Disclaimer: 

Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This information is based on our own 

experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its 

use, or the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a license to operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents. 

Version: 11/2008

HYDRACTIN Moisture & Energy - Kinetik

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