Food, Gender and Cultural Hegemony - Kennesaw State University

Cualli 134
191). There is a story that one Spanish priest "of more logic than orthodoxy" reached
the conclusion that the absence of grapes and wheat in the New World meant that God
did not intend that the indigenous peoples of America be Christianized (Crosby 71).
The Spanish diet just prior to 1492 consisted of dinner (between 10 and 11 AM
in the morning) and supper (at 6 or 7 PM.) Dinner was the largest meal. Elites would
expect three courses, not counting soups, side dishes, and desserts. Quantity was
emphasized over quality, but wine was a must. Among the popular classes there
might only be one or two courses. Wheat bread and meat were the principal foods.
Beef, pork, mutton, goat, and poultry and wild game were roasted on a spit, boiled or
cut up and stewed. Stews were heavily spiced, reflecting the Moorish influence
(Domingo 17-29). Vinegar, salt, cloves, coriander, saffron, pepper, ginger, cinnamon,
pine nuts, onions and parsley were frequently used spices. Olive oil was indispensable
for cooking and flavor. Eggs and fruit (both fresh and dried) were accompaniments.
Vegetables were few: onions, carrots, turnips, and cabbages were used but not
esteemed. The only beverages were water and wine (Oliveira Marques 16-29). Only
the elite had wine everyday, but all Spaniards regarded it as essential (Domingo 26).
Furniture was scanty in the houses of both the popular classes and the elite
prior to the sixteenth century. Benches were more common than chairs and often
people sat on cushions or carpets to eat. Tables appeared in elite houses in the
medieval period, but were seldom seen in the houses of the popular classes. Often a
table consisted only of a board mounted over trestles, and was frequently carried
from room to room. Round pieces of bread were commonly used as plates even in
elite banquets. Silverware apart from spoons was rare before the eighteenth century.
Most people carried their own knives. Often soup was served in large pots that served
as a common bowl. Large goblets were used for wine. There was a custom of
washing hands before and after eating since the hands were frequently used for eating
(Oliveira Marques 28-30). In spite of the primitive trappings, the banquets of the elite
were highly ceremonial. For example it was the custom to precede each dish, as well
as the wine, with servants bearing torches under the leadership of an usher:
Recipe for rabbit (16 th Century Treatise on Cooking)
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