Food, Gender and Cultural Hegemony - Kennesaw State University

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Cualli 143 nuns of Puebla invented Mole in honor of Viceroy Tomas Antonio de la Cerda y Aragon. Possibly the nuns, (influenced by the aristocratic Nahua girls being schooled in the convent), and in search of a dish that would be appropriately luxurious and stately for the Viceroy, came up with an elaboration of the most celebratory food that Nahua culture had to offer: the mole poblana. We know it was celebratory because it was featured as part of the marriage feast in the Codex Mendoza. The chocolate as an ingredient made it appropriate for royalty (there is no clear evidence if chocolate was part of the mole prior to the conquest). However, the inclusion of European spices such as coriander, cloves, cinnamon and ginger made the mole familiar to the Spanish Viceroy. Jeffrey Pilcher remarks: "For mole poblano to have gained social status in colonial Mexico…it would have been seen as a Creole rather than mestizo dish. And notwithstanding the New World chiles lurking inside, mole would have seemed completely appropriate for any medieval banquet," (Pilcher 42-43). The mole had to appear as a Creole creation, since the "mestizo" was essentially without social status in the colonial period. The genius of mole was that it had crucial indigenous characteristics as a cuisine, and was also credible as European cuisine. Conclusion This examination of food and identity in the conquest period in Mexico suggests that several factors were responsible for the successful creation of a creole cuisine that incorporated indigenous and Spanish foods. Similarities in modes of food preparation, an attitude of celebration and reverence toward food, and a relationship between social hierarchy and appropriate celebratory foods were all important in the evolution of a hybrid cuisine that would be seen as "national" by all groups. The influence of miscegenation and specifically the gradual infiltration of indigenous women through marriage and concubinage into Spanish society undoubtedly also were significant. The marriage of the tortilla with chicken and pork, combined with chiles and cheese; the knowledge to blend the flavors of chiles and spices on the metate; these factors resulted in a most [Type text]
Cualli 144 felicitous union. Works Cited Acosta, Joseph de. Historia Natural y Moral de las Indias. México: Fondo de Cultura Económica, 1962. Print. Adams, Richard N. "Food Habits in Latin America." Human Nutrition Historic and Scientific. Institute of Social and Historical Medicine. New York: International Universities Press, 1960. Print. Albala, Kenneth. “V.C.2. Southern Europe.”Cambridge World History of Food. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000. Print. Bohrer, Vorsila L. “Maize in Middle American and Southwestern United States Agricultural Traditions.” Corn and Culture in the Prehistoric New World. Boulder: Westview Press, 1994. 469-512. Print. Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1984. Print. Bauer, Arnold J. Goods, Power, History: Latin America’s Material Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001. Print. Burgos-Debray, Elizabeth. I, Rigoberta Menchu: An Indian Woman in Guatemala. London: Verso, 1983. Print. Bynum, C. Walker. "The female body and religious practice in the later Middle Ages.” Fragments for a history of the human body. Cambridge: M.I.T. Press, 1989. Print. Coe, Sophie D. America’s First Cuisines. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1994. Print Coe, Sophie D. and Michael D. Coe. The True History of Chocolate. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1993. Print. Codex Mendoza: Aztec Manuscript. Productions Liber, 1978. Print. Cook, Sherburne F. and Woodrow Borah. "Indian Food Production and Consumption in Central Mexico Before and After the Conquest (1500-1650)." Essays in Population History. Berkeley: UC Press, [Type text]
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Page 5 and 6: Cualli 130 examination of food ways
Page 7 and 8: Cualli 132 thousands of sacks of wh
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Page 11 and 12: Cualli 136 beverage (Soustelle, 196
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Page 15 and 16: Cualli 140 In the next phase (1550-
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Page 21 and 22: Cualli 146 Kellogg, Susan. “Hegem
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Food, Gender and Cultural Hegemony - Kennesaw State University

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