Designers Finest - KappAhl
Designers Finest - KappAhl
Designers Finest - KappAhl
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designers<br />
finest<br />
autumn<br />
2 011
designers<br />
finest<br />
DISCOVER DESIGNERS FINEST!<br />
A NEW LIMITED EDITION COLLECTION<br />
THE FINEST SILK, THE SOFTEST LEATHER, FLATTERING CUTS AND EDGY<br />
DETAILING THAT EXUDES CHARACTER, LUXURY AND EXCLUSIVITY. WHEN<br />
KAPPAHL LETS EIGHT OF ITS 35 DESIGNERS LIVE IT UP, THE RESULT<br />
IS TIMELESS CLASSICS INSPIRED BY STRONG FEMININE PERSONALITIES<br />
SUCH AS SOFIA COPPOLA AND CHARLOTTE GAINSBOURG.<br />
Last autumn, Maria, Catrin, Ingela,<br />
Gabban, Lollo, Annika, Cecilia and<br />
Carina were asked if they would<br />
like to take part in a fantastic -<br />
yes, truly unique design journey!<br />
An adventure with no limits but<br />
with a clear goal: to give <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s<br />
current customer a wider selection<br />
and to give new, selective and<br />
fashion-conscious customers a chance<br />
to discover <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s range. And<br />
to give women on-the-move, with<br />
little time and loads of taste, the<br />
chance to simply acquire an entire<br />
wardrobe. With <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong>, we<br />
also take the opportunity to bring<br />
attention to <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s own talented<br />
and creative designers!<br />
<strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong> is a womenswear<br />
collection of extra fine quality,<br />
which explains the slightly higher<br />
price tag. It consists of 20<br />
garments with matching accessories.<br />
The design team´s work has been<br />
a journey in which only their<br />
imagination set the boundaries.<br />
Nearly. Unlike other collections,<br />
price, manufacturing or material<br />
costs played no role in the design.<br />
» The goal with this special<br />
collection is that it should be easy<br />
to vary based on mood, wardrobe,<br />
and occasion. Every garment can<br />
be combined, worn on its own or<br />
as layers. That is why it is vital<br />
that the collection is coherent and<br />
unified when it comes to colours<br />
and silhouettes«, explains <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s<br />
head designer Carina Johansson.<br />
She also points out that every<br />
garment stands out and reflects its<br />
designer’s personality, ambitions<br />
and dreams, although when this was a<br />
team effort!<br />
Cuts and contrasts in materials<br />
are key details for the collection.<br />
Pure cubism and round forms<br />
blended with draping and asymmetry.<br />
Throughout the collection materials<br />
such as leather and suede are<br />
contrasted with thin, pliable<br />
materials such as silk, lyocell and<br />
cotton. The colours the designers<br />
chose to stick to are white, black<br />
and grey together with accent<br />
colours such as bordeaux and dijon.<br />
When the designers themselves<br />
describe the challenge with the<br />
collection, they are in agreement<br />
that it is a dream project. To<br />
create garments in their own image,<br />
for women by women!<br />
Autumn 2011 marks the debut of the <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong>, a<br />
limited edition collection which will be available in all of<br />
<strong>KappAhl</strong>’s boutiques in all markets. For those who want<br />
to be sure they can be a part of this, we recommend that<br />
you prepare yourself prior to queuing at any of <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s<br />
almost 370 stores in Europe.<br />
In Autumn 2010 the design process began for <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong>, a close collaboration between eight designers<br />
to put together a unified and coherent collection.<br />
A year later <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong> is complete and the result highlights a strong<br />
partnership as well as solid designing from <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s designers.<br />
2<br />
3
GABRIELLE<br />
DESIGNER<br />
designers<br />
finest<br />
TROUSERS<br />
WHY PAIR LEATHER AND FABRIC?<br />
» <strong>KappAhl</strong> is known for making great trousers with the right fit for<br />
all body types and especially in denim. It’s great to play with leather<br />
together with dressier materials. For instance, leather detailing on suit<br />
trousers. It took a lot of trial and error to get the right cut, the right<br />
sheen and exclusiveness in leather. I was inspired by the 60s and the<br />
90s. You get freedom of choice, for instance, there are long zips on the<br />
trouser legs, which means that you decide yourself if you want a bootcut or<br />
slim silhouette. In that way, we’ve tied all these different time periods<br />
together with zippers.«<br />
THE TROUSERS HAVE SO MANY FINE DETAILS?<br />
» I like the old thought with piping and binding, for instance when<br />
you add leather around a seam. Or as on vintage tailored men’s trousers,<br />
there’s often a white inner-side to the lining. It’s both beautiful and<br />
nice against your skin. Good old-fashioned tailoring details that have been<br />
absolutely wonderful to revel in.«<br />
WHERE DO YOU FIND YOUR INSPIRATION?<br />
» In books, films, online, fashion shows, different forums and when I´m<br />
in town. I love the internet and sometimes I follow a thread that leads to<br />
something amazingly interesting and then I forget where I started. You need<br />
to be satisfied and not annoyed when you’re looking for something online.«<br />
THE CHALLENGE IN DESIGNING FOR KAPPAHL?<br />
» The art of creating something unique, yet mainstream and commercial.<br />
And then timing, that’s the most difficult of all.«<br />
» The art of creating<br />
something unique,<br />
yet mainstream and<br />
commercial.«<br />
4<br />
Working for <strong>KappAhl</strong>: It’s a great atmosphere, fantastic<br />
colleagues and loads of possibilities. There really is room here<br />
to develop. Background: When I started designing 25 years<br />
ago, <strong>KappAhl</strong> was one of my clients. Now I have been working for<br />
<strong>KappAhl</strong> for 12 years, and have come full circle.<br />
These small details give the trousers a high quality, tailormade<br />
look. And Gabrielle points out that you should dare to<br />
spend time on those extra details.<br />
5
ANNE-LOUISE<br />
DESIGNER<br />
designers<br />
finest<br />
COAT<br />
THE AUTUMN’S MOST IMPORTANT FASHION TRENDS?<br />
» Modern, minimalist garments that are inspired by the 60s and the<br />
90s. Ruffles and the ethereal romantic are moving towards being scaled<br />
back. Even trends from the 1930s and 1940s are making a comeback. And then<br />
there’s the 90s grunge style, layer upon layer. There are a lot of vintage<br />
touches in every trend. Historical scenes, rock and baroque style, lace<br />
with leather and punk elements. A gorgeous and rather crazy combination<br />
from many periods and styles.«<br />
WHY LOOK BACK?<br />
» These different periods are iconic. I think you need to know the<br />
history before you can build something new. Today there are so many great<br />
materials which means that cut and fit can develop. We designers always<br />
have a modern perspective with what we do, but we need inspiration from<br />
the past in order to design for the future.«<br />
THE ROAD TO A FINISHED COAT AND PULLOVER?<br />
» The three-quarter coat got a 60s touch in black bouclé with outer<br />
pockets in real leather - the coat has a bit of an A-line shape. What’s<br />
great with bouclé is that it’s a bit curly, alive and warm, similar to fur<br />
yet elegantly simple and modern. The pullover is patent knit, is on trend<br />
and I knew I wanted to make a pullover that was short in the front and<br />
a bit longer at the back. Deep armholes and rollneck. At first it was a<br />
little too long, so we shortened it a bit and decided not to make it in<br />
black since the stitches are more visible in this grey melange.«<br />
» What’s great with<br />
bouclé is that it’s<br />
a bit curly, alive<br />
and warm.«<br />
Anne-Louise has also<br />
designed the pullover for<br />
<strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong>.<br />
6<br />
Favourite designer: Alexander Wang because he mixes<br />
masculine and feminine expressions in an exciting way Background:<br />
Studied at Tillskärarakademin and Fashion Design at<br />
the Swedish School of Textiles. Worked as a designer for JC<br />
and then seven years for <strong>KappAhl</strong>. You grow with your target<br />
group. Favourite garment: Jackets in different styles and<br />
fabrics. If you weren’t a designer: Then I would be a florist.<br />
Peonies are my favourite flower.<br />
Visible details, sharp silhouettes and new material<br />
combinations are typical characteristics for <strong>Designers</strong><br />
<strong>Finest</strong> – the details have been chosen with great care to<br />
evoke a deliberately modern impression.<br />
7
designers<br />
finest<br />
INGELA<br />
DESIGNER<br />
LEATHER JACKET<br />
» This is proof of<br />
a fantastic<br />
collaboration and<br />
talented designers.«<br />
TELL US ABOUT THE LEATHER JACKET’S DESIGN?<br />
» This was the first time that I designed anything in leather and it<br />
was more difficult than I’d imagined. Getting the right fit has been a<br />
challenge. We had to change the leather several times to get the right<br />
fall, and the leather couldn’t be too stiff. There was a lot of trial and<br />
error before we got the right waist, fit and draping.«<br />
THE BENEFITS OF WORKING TOGETHER ON A COLLECTION?<br />
» The idea with highlighting a design collection and not just individual<br />
designers has been on the agenda for several years. There are thirty-five<br />
designers and thirty people working on so-called hidden designs. We want<br />
to show variety and <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong> is the result when the designers<br />
themselves get to decide what they want to wear. Taking the latest trends<br />
and making clothes that are timeless and made in extra-luxe quality is<br />
extremely rewarding.«<br />
WHAT WAS THE GREATEST CHALLENGE?<br />
» Allowing everyone being creative but still staying within the<br />
boundaries so that all of the garments and accessories worked together and<br />
didn’t stand out too much. This is proof of a fantastic collaboration and<br />
talented designers with tons of experience.«<br />
WAS THERE A RISK FOR COMPETITION WHEN THERE ARE SO MANY DESIGNERS WORKING<br />
TOGETHER?<br />
» No, everyone has worked together even if we didn’t always agree. We all<br />
see a common vision and contribute to the success of <strong>KappAhl</strong>. Having fun<br />
is far more important and that’s something we always have!«<br />
There are many steps to the<br />
final fit. Here the leather jacket<br />
goes through its final fitting<br />
before Ingela approves it for<br />
production.<br />
8<br />
The well-appointed leather jacket is made of the softest<br />
leather for a luxurious feel. The raw edges add a modern,<br />
on trend touch to the jacket.<br />
Family: Husband and two sons. My 12-year-old son is extremely<br />
interested in clothing and often comments on my sense<br />
of style. Leisure: Skiing, yoga and Zumba. Background:<br />
Started working in clothing boutiques, have been a costume<br />
designer for TV, attended the Nordic Design School in Borås,<br />
Göteborg. The charm of the profession: Being creative.<br />
9
ANNIKA<br />
DESIGNER<br />
designers<br />
finest<br />
BLOUSE<br />
WHAT FEELING SHOULD CUSTOMERS HAVE WHEN THEY’RE SHOPPING IN THE STORE?<br />
» They should see the clothing and think, ”ooh! I want that, that’s<br />
gorgeous, how awesome!” She should feel joy and happiness.«<br />
WHAT IS IT LIKE TO CONSTANTLY WORK IN THE FUTURE?<br />
» At the moment, I am designing for July, September, October and just<br />
fitted the collection for next June. You get a bit muddled when it comes<br />
to the seasons. I can sometimes even forget what year it is. For instance,<br />
once I didn’t notice that my passport had expired when I was about to go<br />
on holiday. One lives in so many different times simultaneously, which is a<br />
pretty amazing feeling.«<br />
WHAT IS IT LIKE TO WORK WITH PURE SILK?<br />
» It is so incredibly luxurious to work with this type of material.<br />
I wanted to do something with volume, something fun with wide sleeves,<br />
lots of draping, a blouse that would hang beautifully over a pair of slim<br />
trousers.«<br />
WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR JOB?<br />
» That there are always new things happening! I love seeing new fashion<br />
shows, it doesn’t really matter what they are for. I get really excited<br />
about new colours and models! You move forward, and I am always longing to<br />
start new things.«<br />
» One lives in<br />
so many different<br />
times simultaneously.«<br />
10<br />
Hidden talent: I pull out my sewing machine and sew<br />
cushion covers and quilted pillows, which are like mind maps.<br />
Background: School of Design and Crafts, HDK in Göteborg.<br />
Favourite designers this autumn: Marc by Marc Jacobs and<br />
Gucci for their colour schemes. Leisure: Hmm, my own time?<br />
Besides, I work every day with my greatest passion.<br />
The work process is very complex, and there was quite a lot to<br />
synchronise. Everything from sketches, fittings and establishing<br />
quality controls.<br />
11
designers<br />
finest<br />
CARINA<br />
DESIGNER<br />
DRESS<br />
» We want to put<br />
a spotlight on<br />
ourselves as a<br />
design collective.«<br />
DESCRIBE YOUR OWN STYLE?<br />
» I love mixing it up and have a rather feminine style with high heels,<br />
short jackets, dresses and I especially love accessories.«<br />
WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT WHEN YOU DESIGN?<br />
» I always think about obtaining a good fit, what works and what doesn’t.<br />
Every customer is different and should dress according to their body. It’s<br />
important to highlight what is good and, at the same time, it should be<br />
easy to wear and flatter the figure. That’s why it’s great to have a chance<br />
to be part of this project and make a dress that is wearable, modern and<br />
timeless. And suits every figure. The dress is sweeping and has an elegant<br />
fall. This is something that we can’t always do every day and have so much<br />
freedom. The entire collection and collaboration is unique with garments<br />
and accessories that you don’t usually find in the <strong>KappAhl</strong> store.«<br />
WHICH TRENDS ARE MOST IMPORTANT THIS AUTUMN?<br />
» Tons of colour, Missoni prints, fur and velvet. More colour than usual<br />
and even warmer neutrals.«<br />
YOUR STRENGTH AS A DESIGNER?<br />
» I am full of ideas and very creative. My weakness is that I am a bit<br />
messy, and sometimes I’m surround by what I call creative chaos. But I know<br />
where everything is at work and need my piles around me. I find it difficult<br />
to throw away things like fabric samples and old press cuttings. I<br />
always think that I might need them in the future.«<br />
The creativity and commercial creation has to coordinate when<br />
designing a collection for such a broad target group. The challenge<br />
is finding a model that works equally well in size 34 as in 44.<br />
12<br />
Collects: Everything from toys to handbags, I probably have<br />
35 different bags. I also collect rocking horses and Art Deco<br />
perfume bottles. Interior design: Has an 18th century house<br />
on an island in the archipelago. The style is Shabby Chic<br />
with a mixture of old and new. Background: Has attended<br />
the College of Design, HDK in Göteborg. At that time, being<br />
a designer wasn’t especially trendy and companies didn’t<br />
understand the importance of having their own designers.<br />
13
CECILIA<br />
DESIGNER<br />
designers<br />
finest<br />
SKIRT<br />
HOW DID THE DESIGNERS FINEST JOURNEY BEGIN?<br />
» Everyone from our various divisions was asked to come up with loads<br />
of ideas about what we wanted to do. And then we decided, among other<br />
things, that we’d mix tricot with knits, leather with materials and play<br />
with other materials. It’s great when you can use more exclusive materials,<br />
it inspires new thoughts and visions. Just being able to choose lyocell,<br />
which is similar to viscose but more environment-friendly and a little more<br />
expensive, was a luxury. Finally, we figured out which garments we wanted<br />
to focus on.«<br />
WHAT IS IT LIKE TO DESIGN IN TRICOT?<br />
» It’s great, there are so many things you can do in tricot and it’s<br />
constantly developing new qualities that let you try new models. It’s<br />
extremely important to choose the right quality. For instance, the<br />
materials need to have the right weight or it twists, such as with a fabric<br />
like lyocell, which we usually don’t work with. At the same time, you want<br />
it to have that light, airy feel. Then the customers also have to like the<br />
material and sometimes there are compromises. A lot of it is about gut<br />
instinct, certain things you just won’t wear no matter how beautiful they<br />
are.«<br />
WHAT IS THE PASSION WITH DESIGNING?<br />
» It’s so much fun to create something yourself. The feeling of being<br />
able to take a trend and reinvent it so it suits our customers. And always<br />
being able to work on new things. For the future.«<br />
» It’s not about age,<br />
it’s about your<br />
attitude in life.«<br />
Strength as a designer: I am good at seeing the big picture,<br />
that everything works well together. Background: Every-thing<br />
in textiles, manager, men’s tailor at Stora Teatern in Göteborg,<br />
buyer, brand developer and designer. Favourite garment: All<br />
types of cardigans. Leisure: I love my garden and my books.<br />
”It’s important to have a critical eye in order to get a perfect<br />
aperture”, says Cecilia, as she quality checks the distance<br />
between buttons and visible seams.<br />
14<br />
15
CATRIN<br />
DESIGNER<br />
designers<br />
finest<br />
BELT<br />
WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH DESIGNERS FINEST?<br />
» I stepped in when the collection was in progress and was asked to make<br />
a number of matching accessories that were on-trend, modern and would of<br />
course complement the rest of the collection and make a certain statement.<br />
A bit cooler, simpler and timeless.«<br />
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THIS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS?<br />
» Now we had the chance to work with more exclusive materials, real<br />
leather, suede and wool. It was really exciting. Colour is big in all the<br />
autumn fashion shows around the world so it was fun to have bright accent<br />
colours in this collection and to work with trends like colour blocking.«<br />
WHAT IS COLOUR BLOCKING?<br />
» It’s when a garment is divided into different colour fields. You can<br />
see this clearly on the bag and even the scarf. A huge graphic statement,<br />
and also a way to tie together the entire collection colourwise with the<br />
accessories.«<br />
WHAT SIGNAL DOES THE BELT SEND?<br />
» For me, an oversized belt is a type of statement. Not so cautious. And<br />
big, bold accessories are a trend that’s been around for a while now. You<br />
want to put yourself out there and show people who you are. Just look at<br />
the blog sphere where people dare to stand out.«<br />
» Bold accessories<br />
help us make a<br />
statement.«<br />
A coherent accessories range that does a fantastic job of<br />
framing the collection. The accessories are eye-catching and<br />
stand out against the garments, all of them are ”statement<br />
pieces” in their own right.<br />
16<br />
Passion: Looking for vintage items. Collects: Bracelets and<br />
rings, have around 50 bags and tons of bracelets. Sources<br />
of inspiration: Concerts! It’s so great and you get a complete<br />
experience with the set design and music. It’s a feast for the senses.<br />
Autumn’s accessories trends: We’re going to see loads<br />
of fur garments like fur hats, legwarmers, fur muffs and collars.<br />
Coloured bags and belts. Lots of costume jewellery in gold.<br />
17
MARIA<br />
GRAPHIC DESIGNER<br />
JENNY<br />
GRAPHIC DESIGNER<br />
ILLUSTRATIONS / PRINTS<br />
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE AN ILLUSTRATION OF A BIRD FOR THE TUNIC?<br />
» I was inspired by the chance of having more freedom in our designs.<br />
Free as a bird released from its cage. So I held on to those thoughts<br />
around cages, butterflies and birds. I didn’t want to add a colour scheme,<br />
rather I wanted it to be in black and white, which works so well. This<br />
illustration is very me.«<br />
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO WEAR THE TUNIC WITH YOUR PRINT?<br />
» It should be simple to wear, both for everyday and parties, preferably<br />
with slim trousers and a jacket.«<br />
DO YOU REMEMBER WHEN YOU WERE FIRST BITTEN BY THE FASHION BUG?<br />
» Unlike my daughter, who’s in seventh grade and already has her own<br />
style, I didn’t really understand that I didn’t have to look like everyone<br />
else until sometime after eighth grade. That´s when I started sewing my own<br />
clothes and dyeing the garments myself.«<br />
HOW DOES IT FEEL TO SEE YOUR DESIGN ON DISPLAY IN THE STORES?<br />
» Extremly proud. It’s so much fun and it’s even more fun when your<br />
garment is in demand.«<br />
DOES YOUR WELL OF INSPIRATION EVER RUN DRY?<br />
» No, not often. I find inspiration everywhere, online, in vintage shops,<br />
books and in life itself.«<br />
FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS<br />
HOW DID THE FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS FOR DESIGNERS FINEST COME ABOUT?<br />
»I was very happy when I was asked if I wanted to create the fashion<br />
illustrations for <strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong>. This time I’ve worked with a little<br />
cooler style, a quicker sketch feel. It was fun to also clip in the<br />
garments, a little like a collage. I wanted the sketches to be simple and<br />
not take too much space from the garment. This style is very close to my<br />
own.«<br />
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE COLLECTION?<br />
» Cool, elegant, simple, feminine, volume and contrasts. Classic pieces<br />
that are amazingly gorgeous. I can imagine wearing all of the pieces and<br />
<strong>Designers</strong> <strong>Finest</strong> is a style that suits everyone, no matter age.«<br />
Maria found her inspiration for the print in the collection’s<br />
concept – Free <strong>Designers</strong>. The designers and the working<br />
process for the collection are symbolised in the form of birds<br />
and bird cages.<br />
18<br />
Background: Fashion Design at the Swedish School of<br />
Textiles in Borås. Favourite artist: Nikki de Saint Phalle.<br />
Favourite material: Natural materials, preferably silk and<br />
cotton. Personal style: Change into comfortable clothing<br />
as soon as I come home, preferably my two-piece tracksuit.<br />
Relaxing: Have the privilege of being at home two days a week<br />
painting acrylics and watercolours.<br />
Background: I’ve always been interested in art, design and<br />
fashion. I’ve worked in China for a Chinese clothing company<br />
and helped them with their own brand. Favourite country:<br />
Even though I am from Hong Kong, it’s Tokyo and Japan that<br />
inspire me. The choice there is huge and, at the same time,<br />
it’s very traditional so there are no limits when it comes to<br />
imagination, colour and form.<br />
19
For more information about our clothes, please contact:<br />
Sweden head office: monika.kostovska@kappahl.com<br />
Sweden showroom: sanna.cederlof@kappahl.com<br />
Finland showroom: info@marsaana.com<br />
Norway showroom: annelie.lindwall@kappahl.com<br />
Poland showroom: paulina.szwaj@kappahl.com<br />
Czech Republic showroom: zuzana.cisternas@kappahl.com<br />
PRODUCTION: ÅKESSON & CURRY