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Travel guide

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are the references to the building plans typical of the different towns<br />

around the Island. The exhibition spreads over 18 halls on about 1000<br />

msq. The museum collections include over 7000 finds: textile and wooden<br />

handiwork, musical instruments of the oral tradition, working and<br />

domestic tools, garments and jewels dating to the period between the end<br />

of the XIX and the mid-XX century. At Carnival, Sardinia forcibly expresses<br />

its most ancient traditions, which sometimes date back to most ancient<br />

times. In Mamoiada, the Mamuthones and Issohadores go on parade: the<br />

former wearing a black wooden mask, a black sheep fleece and a<br />

resounding cluster of bells; the latter wearing a jacket of red cloth and a<br />

waistband with bronze and brass bells, and carrying sa soha, a cord made<br />

of rush. There are strong references to the celebration of the victory of the<br />

peasants of Barbagia (the issohadores) over the Saracen invaders captured<br />

and paraded around (the mamuthones) or even to the ancestral rituals of<br />

fertility, attributable to primeval cults spread all over the Mediterranean<br />

region. The parade of Samugheo features some analogies with the<br />

Barbagian one: the main characters are the Mamutzones, covered in goat<br />

fleece with tall headpieces made of cork over which large horns stick out,<br />

a black face and carrying two pairs of large bells hanging on the body;<br />

s’Urtzu, an anthropomorphic goat with a fleece of black goat; su<br />

Omadore, peasant image with a long black jacket. Here, too, are strong<br />

references to the ancient Dionysian cults: the mamutzones, followers of<br />

Dionysus, dance around s’urtzu, which embodies the worshipped god,<br />

whereas su omadore plagues it until its sacrifice. In Bosa, the Karrasegare<br />

is an important occasion of community cohesion. In the last days collective<br />

hysteria mounts around Gioldzi. Represented by a huge puppet stuffed<br />

with straw and cloths, it is the symbol of the dying Carnival. It is its fate, in<br />

the evening of the Mardi Gras, to burn at the stake. The ritual is foretold,<br />

during the day, by the chorus of the s’attittadora and their mourning<br />

marks. Ovodda offers its most famous and frisky aspect on an unusual<br />

date: Ash Wednesday. The inhabitants flock down the streets wearing old<br />

clothes and with their face blackened with soot, a compulsory requirement<br />

even for the tourists attending the celebrations. In the evening, following a<br />

day of cheerfulness with offers of cheese, sausages, doughnuts and good<br />

wine, it is the time for the trial to the tyrant Don Conte, represented by a<br />

huge puppet of devastating ugliness, gross and obscene. Its fate is<br />

decided: burnt at the stake. Finally Tempio Pausania, where a Carnival<br />

63

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