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Avellino and Irpinia - In Campania

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Alta <strong>Irpinia</strong><br />

famous travellers<br />

There is a place in Central Italy, under high mountains,<br />

noble <strong>and</strong> remembered for its fame, the Ansanto valley;<br />

gloomy with dense growth it is closed on two sides<br />

by woods, where, full in the middle, between boulders<br />

<strong>and</strong> whirlpools, thunders a river.<br />

Aeneid (VII, 563-567)<br />

158<br />

Alta <strong>Irpinia</strong>, on the eastern side of the province,<br />

is a hilly zone with sheer summits, intersected by<br />

innumerable streams. The area was hard hit by the<br />

earthquake of 1980, but the rare villages rich in<br />

history <strong>and</strong> natural beauty have been patiently<br />

restored in memory of the past.<br />

Montella, famous for its walnuts <strong>and</strong> chestnuts, is<br />

the starting point for excursions into the splendid<br />

surrounding mountains. From here one can reach<br />

the Santa Maria della Neve Monastery, the Salvatore<br />

Sanctuary <strong>and</strong> the Caprone Grotto, where it is<br />

believed that ceremonies to the god Bacchus were<br />

held in ancient times. Nearby is the San Francesco<br />

a Folloni monumental complex, said to have been<br />

founded by Saint Francis of Assisi himself.<br />

Bagnoli Irpino, in a lovely position on the northern<br />

slopes of the Picentini mountains, is dominated by<br />

the remains of a 1400’s castle. Among the naturally<br />

beautiful sites to be visited is the Caliendo Grotto;<br />

300 meters deep it has many small waterfalls that<br />

burst from the rock.<br />

Piano Laceno is a touristic centre that is open both<br />

summer <strong>and</strong> winter, <strong>and</strong> has many good hotels <strong>and</strong><br />

restaurants. There are good ski slopes with efficient<br />

ski-lifts. On the western edge of the plain is the lake<br />

of Laceno, with equipped picnic areas.<br />

At Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi, which takes its<br />

name from the cult of Saint Michael the Archangel to<br />

whom the Longobards were particularly devoted,<br />

one can visit the Romanesque cathedral <strong>and</strong> the<br />

Longobard castle. A few kilometers away is the<br />

splendid San Guglielmo al Goleto Abbey, another<br />

masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, one of the<br />

most evocative of the monumental complexes of<br />

Southern Italy. The complex, with its great walls,<br />

dominates the entire Ofanto Valley <strong>and</strong> includes the<br />

monastery <strong>and</strong> two churches.<br />

The historical centre of Bisaccia is interesting:<br />

in the Ducal Castle that was founded in the 7 th<br />

century there are literary cafès <strong>and</strong> artisan shops.<br />

Calitri, on the border with the province of Salerno,<br />

has a charming ancient village dominated by the<br />

Castle, <strong>and</strong> lovely green areas by the Ofanto river.<br />

Conza della <strong>Campania</strong> surges near lake of Conza,<br />

a large artificial body of water with a refined<br />

ecosystem of great naturalistic interest, protected by<br />

the WWF.<br />

Archaeological excavations have brought to light<br />

important remains <strong>and</strong> part of the forum of the<br />

Roman city, visible in the Archaeological Park<br />

of ancient Compsa.<br />

San Guglielmo<br />

al Goleto Abbey<br />

159<br />

A sanctuary on a<br />

sulphur lake: the Mefite<br />

of Rocca San Felice<br />

<strong>In</strong> the Ansanto Valley is<br />

‘Mofeta’, a very famous<br />

place in ancient times. The<br />

lake of sulphureous mud is<br />

a volcano that lets off gas<br />

<strong>and</strong> sulphur vapours. Close<br />

by, in the 6 th century BC the<br />

Samnites built a sanctuary<br />

venerated by many,<br />

dedicated to the goddess<br />

Mefite, protectress of health<br />

<strong>and</strong> patron of water <strong>and</strong><br />

fields. The name is still<br />

remembered in the adjective<br />

‘mephitic’, which refers to<br />

the intolerable smell of the<br />

sulphur vapours. The<br />

sacred nature of this place<br />

has passed down to the<br />

nearby Santa Felicita<br />

Sanctuary.<br />

Lake of Laceno

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