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This section should not be attempted in bad weather, particularly
after fresh snowfall. It is also dangerous because of the danger of
lightning striking the countless fittings made of forged steel.
On the summit, you find the Capanna Penìa (Penìa mountain hut) which offers
home-cooked food and limited overnight accommodation for small groups.
Descend using the same route.
Rock climb on the Marmolada’s west ridge
After all, do not forget that you are going to climb the Marmolada,
the Queen of the Dolomites.
From Rifugio Castiglioni via the dam and near the cable car, continue
along path No. 606, which leads to the Pian dei Fiacconi mountain
hut (at 2,626m) within 2 hours. The hut offers sleeping places for
an overnight stay. You can also reach the hut by cable car - this has
to be taken into consideration when you calculate the entire hiking
time and length of the stage.
Path No. 606 goes further towards the west and steps down a little
to the residual edge of the glacier then goes flat through the rocks to a
crevasse on the northern crest of the Marmolada. From here, hike down
on the glacier between Marmolada and Piccolo Vernèl and again over
the glacier up, first through scree and rocks then on ice to the secured
wall which leads to the Marmoladascharte, (col at 2,896m).
2 hours from Pian dei Fiacconi.
From the Marmoladascharte, it is possible to reach the summit
of the Marmolada in around an hour, Punta Penia at 3,343m and
over the Klettersteig (fixed rope route) on the northwestern crest.
The route is exposed, fascinating and varied but suitable only for
experienced mountaineers and climbers with good equipment.
Back at the Marmoladascharte, climb down (towards the west)
walking sometimes on a thin sheet ice then head towards the south
along a partly secured section of path before, after a gully, finally
reaching the junction with path No. 610 which comes down from
the Passo Ombretta.
Opt for path No. 610 and reach the Passo Ombretta (pass at
2,727m), with the bivouac “Marco Dal Bianco”. From here, descend
to the mountain hut “Onorio Falièr” at 2,074m and into the Franzedàz
valley. Near the Malga Ciapèla, you rejoin the initial route.
The bivouac “Marco Dal Bianco” on Passo Ombretta belongs to the Oriental
Group of the Academic Italian Alpine Club. It was built in 1968 to pay tribute to
a courageous mountaineer from Vicenza, and was renovated in 1982; it offers
nine sleeping places, is always open but unmanned. Water must be obtained by
melting snow and ice. The accommodation is basic, and a little neglected.
The Falièr mountain hut, under the imposing south walls of the Marmolada,
belongs to the Venice Division of the Italian Alpine Club. It was built in 1911
and renovated in 1999. It is open from 20th June until 20th September and
serves home cooking. It offers 56 beds, refuge in winter with 4 places in a
dormitory, hot and cold water, shower, toilet, light power unit; Station of the
mountain rescue service CNSAS “118“; Tel: +39 0437 722005 (mountain
hut).
If you continue along path No. 606 (towards the west), you reach
the Contrìn mountain hut (at 2,074m).
4 hours from Pian dei Fiacconi.
46 FROM BRIXEN TO FELTRE THE DOLOMITES “ALTA VIA” N.2 47