Pilgrim - Vie Romee
Pilgrim - Vie Romee
Pilgrim - Vie Romee
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Edited by Renato Stopani<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong><br />
routes<br />
in the Florentine countryside<br />
TUSCANY
in the Florentine countryside
<strong>Pilgrim</strong> routes in the Florentine countryside<br />
Edited by Renato Stopani<br />
Texts by<br />
Renato Stopani, Alessandra Cavallini, Claudio Fagarazzi<br />
Graphic project, pagination, image processing<br />
Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva<br />
Illustrations<br />
Massimo Tosi<br />
Photos courtesy of<br />
Renato Stopani, Massimo Tosi, Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze,<br />
Andrea Dini, Apt Arezzo, Apt Siena, Giuditta Marsili<br />
and Leonardo Tarchiani<br />
Copyright © 2010 by<br />
Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze/Casa Editrice Le Lettere<br />
ISBN 88 6087 269 3<br />
www.lelettere.it<br />
www.vieromee.it
A project by Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze<br />
With the contribution of<br />
Tuscan Region<br />
Province of Florence<br />
Province of Arezzo<br />
Province of Siena<br />
In collaboration with the Municipalities of:<br />
Arezzo<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Barberino del Mugello<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />
Borgo San Lorenzo<br />
Campi Bisenzio<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Castelnuovo Berardenga<br />
Certaldo<br />
Colle Val d’Elsa<br />
Empoli<br />
Fiesole<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Greve in Chianti<br />
Impruneta<br />
Incisa Valdarno<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Laterina<br />
Project partners<br />
Municipality of Florence<br />
University of Florence<br />
Istituto Geografico Militare<br />
Archdiocese of Florence<br />
Diocese of Siena<br />
Diocese of Arezzo<br />
Diocese of Fiesole<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Montelupo Fiorentino<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Pelago<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Radda in Chianti<br />
Reggello<br />
Rignano sull’Arno<br />
San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
Scarperia<br />
Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Signa<br />
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
Vaglia<br />
Scientific committee<br />
Claudio Leonardi, Antonio Paolucci, Fabrizio Porcinai, Renato Stopani<br />
Supervision<br />
Antonio Gherdovich<br />
Coordination<br />
Marcella Antonini<br />
General Organization<br />
Alessandra Cavallini<br />
Scientific coordination<br />
Renato Stopani, Claudio Fagarazzi<br />
On-site research and survey<br />
Giuditta Marsili, Leonardo Tarchiani<br />
Operational management<br />
Silvia Zonnedda, Simona Pozzoli<br />
Press Office<br />
Letter@ Comunicazione Integrata<br />
Graphic project and image, website and digital media<br />
Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva<br />
English translation<br />
English Workshop - Firenze
TABLE OF CONTENTS<br />
Introduction P. 8<br />
How to Use the Guide >> 10<br />
Useful Information >> 12<br />
Definitions and Directional Signs >> 13<br />
THE HISTORY<br />
Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network >> 17<br />
The Ten Main Roads of the Florentine Republic >> 19<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes in the Florentine Countryside >> 20<br />
1200: Florence, an Important Stop on the Way to Rome >> 22<br />
The Rise of Hospices in the City of Florence >> 23<br />
FLORENCE, THE URBAN TOUR >> 25<br />
THE VIA SANESE<br />
Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena >> 41<br />
6<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina >> 48<br />
Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi >> 54<br />
Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio >> 58<br />
Leg 3, Alternative route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio >> 62<br />
Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti >> 64<br />
Leg 4, Alternative route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta >> 68<br />
Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena) >> 74<br />
THE VIA PISANA<br />
and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa >> 81<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa >> 88<br />
Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli >> 94<br />
Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino >> 100<br />
Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo >> 106<br />
Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Oliveto Castle >> 110<br />
Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi >> 112<br />
Legs 4 / 5, Alternative route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi >> 118<br />
Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni >> 122<br />
Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza del Campo (Siena) >> 126
THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
The <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Route to Rome in the 13 th Century P. 135<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello) >> 142<br />
Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario >> 150<br />
Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata >> 154<br />
Leg 3, Local Itineraries:<br />
Lake Bilancino – Cafaggiolo – Scarperia >> 158<br />
Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola >> 164<br />
Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio >> 170<br />
Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass >> 174<br />
Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata >> 178<br />
THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
The Itinerary to Loreto >> 185<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi >> 192<br />
Local Itinerary: Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna<br />
Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina >> 198<br />
Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno >> 204<br />
Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi >> 212<br />
Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina >> 218<br />
Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 222<br />
THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Via Sancti Petri >> 229<br />
7<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve >> 236<br />
Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana >> 242<br />
Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò >> 246<br />
Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna >> 250<br />
Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina >> 254<br />
Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 258
Introduction<br />
8<br />
Walking around the Florentine countryside, along the ancient<br />
pilgrim roads to Rome is to relive the experience of a “slow”<br />
journey, rich with the stories of people and places, art and history,<br />
nature and tradition, reflection and spirituality.<br />
This is the aim of the project to promote these pilgrim roads<br />
to Rome.<br />
Six itineraries that leave from Florence and intersect the Via Francigena,<br />
the Via dell’Alpe di Serra and other main religious thoroughfares<br />
of the past.<br />
The Florentine countryside – a term that describes the dioceses<br />
of Florence and Fiesole, an area controlled by the city of Florence<br />
as far back as the 13 th century – was an integral part of the<br />
network of pilgrim roads that profoundly marked all of Tuscany<br />
during the course of the Middle Ages.<br />
The Via Francigena – the quintessential via peregrinalis – did not<br />
pass through Florence as it crossed the westernmost part of Tuscany.<br />
Nevertheless, Florence was connected to this thoroughfare<br />
through roads that intersected it in the Val d’Elsa or Siena. Thus,<br />
some important roads in the Florentine Republic became pilgrim<br />
routes in all respects.<br />
Later, Florence – given also its growing importance as an economic<br />
and political “power” – acquired an increasingly greater<br />
role in the flow of pilgrims heading to Rome. Already at the time<br />
of the first Jubilees, in fact, the majority of pilgrims from all over<br />
Europe who went to Rome passed through Florence. From that<br />
time on, the city increasingly attracted wayfarers of the Via Francigena:<br />
all the main roads and routes, that radiated from the city,<br />
were covered by romei, or pilgrims going to Rome; therefore numerous<br />
hospices and other accommodation facilities were built<br />
in the city, which are still visible in part today amidst the modern<br />
buildings.<br />
After careful historical research that retraced the routes in the<br />
region, here are the itineraries, reborn to be offered anew to<br />
today’s wayfarers:<br />
the Via Sanese which connects Florence and Siena, from where,<br />
returning to the Via Francigena, one continued to Rome;<br />
the Via Pisana, one followed as far as Empoli, and the Francigena<br />
Nova in the lower Val d’Elsa;<br />
the Strada dei Sette Ponti (or Road of the Seven Bridges) and<br />
the Via Vecchia Aretina, going along opposite sides of the upper<br />
Valdarno and both used to link up with the so-called Via<br />
dell’Alpe di Serra near Arezzo;<br />
the Via Vecchia Bolognese, the Bologna-Florence thoroughfare<br />
that began to gain importance in the 13 th century as it began to<br />
replace the Via Francigena as the preferred route to Rome;<br />
an urban itinerary, inside the city of Florence lined with ancient<br />
hospices on the road that led from Porta San Gallo to Porta San<br />
Pier Gattolino (the current Porta Romana), crossing through the
oldest part of the city, then over the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.<br />
All the suburban itineraries radiate out from Florence, starting<br />
from the gates of the city’s 14 th -century walls.<br />
The pilgrim of today can travel again on these ancient roads, following<br />
the suggestions and rich historical material in this guide.<br />
With its 560 km. of routes based on a system of foot and bike<br />
paths, the guide – with abundant historical insights and pilgrimage<br />
accounts – opens the door to the discovery of sometimes<br />
little known corners in the area of Florence and its surroundings.<br />
In addition to the guide, the project of the pilgrim roads to<br />
Rome has also created the web site www.vieromee.it that integrates,<br />
expands, and updates useful information on the pilgrim<br />
routes. Multimedia, an information exchange, and maps can be<br />
found on the site, with the possibility of downloading tracks for<br />
traditional GPS. In addition, the site may also be visited using<br />
GPS-equipped cell phones, thus enabling online consultation of<br />
the routes.<br />
Like the principal historical itineraries, the ancient pilgrim roads<br />
to Rome are also identified by a logo that is meant to accompany<br />
the pilgrim along the itineraries: the symbol of a “benedictory<br />
hand”, the sign of good fortune once exchanged by wayfarers<br />
as they traveled towards the destination of their pilgrimage.<br />
The ancient pilgrim roads to Rome – a project sponsored by the<br />
Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze in collaboration with the Tuscan<br />
Region, the provinces and tourism offices of Arezzo, Florence<br />
and Siena, the municipalities of the areas concerned, the<br />
University of Florence, the Istituto Geografico Militare, and the<br />
Archdiocese of Florence – represent an alternative cultural and<br />
tourist offering that responds to an ever-growing demand of informed<br />
and attentive visitors who practice a form of sustainable<br />
tourism that respects the environment.<br />
9<br />
Have a good trip!
How to Use the Guide<br />
After a short historical introduction, an overview of the itineraries<br />
is given with specific information on distance, elevation<br />
gain, and the overall level of difficulty.<br />
Two maps illustrate each itinerary: one is for walking routes and<br />
one for biking routes. Maps are not drawn to scale.<br />
A complete and exhaustive list of the accommodation facilities<br />
in each place is available on the www.vieromee.it internet site.<br />
The itineraries are broken into legs; each leg corresponds to the<br />
distance that can be covered either on foot or by bicycle in one<br />
day, keeping in mind the length and types of terrain.<br />
The technical description for each leg of the walks contains<br />
traveling times, a description, and a list of possible difficulties<br />
as well as pointing out some places to see and information<br />
on public transport. The “navigator”, under the description<br />
of each stage, shows the course of the itinerary, indicating the<br />
specific waypoint.<br />
The description of each leg illustrates the most important historical<br />
and artistic resources from the pilgrims’ point of view.<br />
The text is supplemented with boxes, describing in-depth<br />
particularly interesting monuments and places, interspersed<br />
throughout the text.<br />
10<br />
For each itinerary, information is provided on: accommodation<br />
facilities, events and fairs, and tourist information offices.<br />
The information on accommodation facilities was collected in<br />
2009 from the APT, the local tourist boards for the provinces of<br />
Florence, Siena, and Arezzo.<br />
The references on religious accommodations were provided<br />
by the Archdiocese of Florence and the Diocese of Fiesole. It<br />
must be added that the parishes listed are willing to offer a<br />
spiritual and pastoral hospitality to pilgrims in possession of a<br />
pilgrim credential card (normally released by a religious organization).<br />
For the three main cities (Florence, Siena, and Arezzo),<br />
only hostels and holiday houses were chosen; whereas for all the<br />
other legs of the itinerary, other types of accommodation facilities<br />
have been listed, whose approximate price does not exceed<br />
50 Euros per person per night. The accommodation facilities indicated<br />
for each leg were chosen from among those within an<br />
hour’s walk from the stopping point for that stage.
LEGEND<br />
WALKING Itinerary<br />
CITY TOUR<br />
VIA SANESE<br />
VIA PISANA AND FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Via Francigena<br />
Stretch connecting to the Via Francigena<br />
BIKING Itinerary<br />
BUS route<br />
Places with BUS SERVICE<br />
(for information and schedules, visit the following sites: www.sita-on-line.it;<br />
www.sena.it; www.trainspa.it; www.acv.it; www.etruriamobilita.it; www.amvbus.it)<br />
Places with RAILWAY SERVICE<br />
Beginning and end of an itinerary or a leg<br />
Stops along the route and junctions for alternative itineraries<br />
Centers of historico-artistic interest<br />
Religious buildings<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong> hostels and accommodation facilities<br />
11<br />
Places of natural interest<br />
Castles/towers/ancient villages<br />
VISIT THE SITE<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Further notes on the itineraries and historico-artistic resources<br />
Information on the towns and villages, places of interest and events<br />
Images taken along the route and of the countryside<br />
Detailed maps and description of the routes<br />
Audio-guide and GPS files<br />
Updates on accommodation facilities and tourist information
Useful information<br />
Retracing the historical route, the itineraries of the pilgrim<br />
roads to Rome cross numerous dirt roads and paths. Nevertheless,<br />
the itinerary sometimes follows roads where the presence<br />
of motor vehicles may expose hikers or bikers to risks.<br />
The rule of the road illustrates the behavior to be followed<br />
while traveling on urban and suburban roads intended to guarantee<br />
the safety of pilgrims.<br />
Along the paths, particular attention must be paid to the directional<br />
signs so as not to lose track of the route indicated.<br />
In addition, when crossing through natural areas, it is important<br />
to remember the following: do not damage vegetation or<br />
disturb animals; avoid making unnecessary noise; do not leave<br />
behind trash of any kind; do not light fires; camp only in designated<br />
areas; use only the public rights of way when crossing<br />
private fenced areas.<br />
In many rural areas, fences are used to keep wild animals out<br />
of cultivated areas. On private property, close gates once you<br />
have passed.<br />
For cyclists, bring a small repair kit. Bike tourists must give way<br />
to those traveling on foot.<br />
Before beginning legs located outside of cities and towns, always<br />
be sure to check the weather forecasts.<br />
TRAFFIC CODE, D. LGS. 30/4/92 No. 285<br />
12<br />
Pedestrians must walk on pavements, footpaths and other areas designated for their use.<br />
If these facilities are not available or are obstructed, closed, or inadequate, pedestrians<br />
must walk along the side of the road facing oncoming vehicles so as to minimize as<br />
much as possible the obstruction of traffic. Outside of towns, pedestrians must walk<br />
against traffic on two-way roads and on the right side of the road in the same direction<br />
as vehicular traffic on one-way thoroughfares. From half an hour after sunset until a halfhour<br />
before sunrise, pedestrians must walk in single file when traveling outside cities and<br />
towns on roadways without public lighting.<br />
Pedestrians crossing the roadway must use pedestrian crossings, underpasses, and overpasses.<br />
Where these do not exist, or are more than 100 meters from the crossing point,<br />
pedestrians may only cross perpendicular to the road, and try to avoid situations that may<br />
endanger themselves or others.<br />
Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing intersections on the diagonal; they must use<br />
the crosswalks, where they exist, to traverse squares, even if they are more than 100<br />
meters away.<br />
Pedestrians are prohibited from stopping or lingering on the roadway, except in cases of<br />
necessity; they are likewise prohibited from stopping in groups on sidewalks, shoulders,<br />
or crosswalks, where they may obstruct the normal passage of other pedestrians.<br />
Where no crosswalk is available, pedestrians must give precedence to drivers.<br />
Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing the road before buses, trolley buses, and trams<br />
that are at a bus stop. The use of skateboards, roller skates/blades or other similar forms<br />
of transportation is prohibited on the roadway.<br />
Games, workouts, and sporting events are not authorized. The use of skateboards, roller<br />
skates/blades or other similar forms of transportation is prohibited in pedestrian-only<br />
areas as they may create situations dangerous to others.<br />
Pedestrians are also advised to carry a reflective vest to be worn at night on roadways<br />
outside inhabited areas where no public lighting is available.
Definitions and directional signs<br />
Travel time is the amount of time needed by an average<br />
hiker to walk the distance, not considering possible stops along<br />
the way.<br />
Total elevation gain is the sum of all the climbs of a leg or<br />
an itinerary.<br />
The degree of difficulty, based on the Club Alpino Italiano<br />
(CAI) ratings for Liguria, Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta, uses the<br />
following categories: T = for day-tourists, E = hikers of all levels,<br />
EE = for experienced hikers; EEA = for experienced hikers, with<br />
equipment.<br />
DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY FOR THE ITINERARIES<br />
T = for day-tourists - Itineraries of rather short duration on clearly marked lanes, muletracks<br />
or easy paths that are well-marked and do not present problems of orientation.<br />
They require a certain acquaintance with mountain environments and an adequate physical<br />
conditioning.<br />
E = hikers of all levels - Itineraries on paths or tracks, usually marked, across various types<br />
of terrain (meadows, taluses, or scree). The walks can be short stretches on flat or slightly<br />
uneven ground with leftover snow, where there is a slight risk of injury from falling.<br />
The routes may sometimes cross open country that, however, is clearly and adequately<br />
marked. Steep hillsides may be encountered; exposed sections will have either barriers or<br />
cables available for protection. There may sometimes be unexposed passages over rock,<br />
or short, easy stretches equipped with safeguards (steps, walkways or cables) that do<br />
not require the use of specific equipment (e.g., slings, snap-hooks, etc.) A good sense<br />
of direction is required together with a certain amount of experience and knowledge of<br />
mountainous terrain, as well as suitable training for hiking, footwear, and equipment.<br />
This type of route constitutes the majority of the hiking trails in the Italian mountains.<br />
EE = for experienced hikers - These itineraries are generally marked but require the ability<br />
to hike on specific types of terrain. Paths or tracks over impassable and treacherous<br />
terrain (steep, possibly slippery slopes of grass or scree and talus). Varied terrain (scree,<br />
small, gently sloping snowfields, open slopes without landmarks, etc.). Rocky stretches<br />
with minor technical obstacles (safeguarded trails, via ferratas of lesser difficulty). They<br />
require: general experience in and familiarity with a mountain environment; a sure step<br />
and a head for heights; adequate equipment, gear, and physical preparation. In addition,<br />
on the safeguarded routes, it is necessary to know how to use personal safety equipment<br />
(snap-hooks, belaying devices, slings, and short ropes).<br />
13<br />
EEA = for experienced hikers, with gear.
The directional signs contain the logo of the pilgrim roads to<br />
Rome and comply with the rule of the road, Tuscan Regional Hiking<br />
(RET) regulations, and those used on CAI trails.<br />
In addition to the signs along the itinerary, in the cities and towns<br />
and along the legs of the hike, along the Traffic Code roads of the<br />
route the pilgrim will find:<br />
arrows in cities and towns<br />
Via Via Romea Romea<br />
arrow on interurban streets and roads<br />
Via Romea<br />
Via Romea<br />
Via Romea<br />
and along paths and roads not governed by the rule of the road:<br />
CAI directional signs<br />
14<br />
VR<br />
simple CAI trail markers<br />
733<br />
VIA ROMEA<br />
RET arrows ROMEA<br />
TUSCANIA h 0.45<br />
0. 30<br />
0. 40<br />
3. 10<br />
211<br />
Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30<br />
Meta Intemedia 0. 40<br />
Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10<br />
0. 30<br />
0. 40<br />
211<br />
Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30<br />
Meta Intemedia 0. 40<br />
211<br />
3. 10<br />
Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s along the route<br />
15
16<br />
Along one of the stone-paved routes
THE HISTORY<br />
Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network<br />
In Canto XXIII of Inferno, responding to the two Gaudenti<br />
brothers who have asked Dante where he is from, Dante says,<br />
“…l’ fui nato e cresciuto sovra ‘l bel fiume d’Arno alla gran villa”<br />
(…Born was I, and grew up, In the great town on the fair river<br />
of Arno”). The expression used by the poet, gran villa, great<br />
town, is indeed quite appropriate for describing the city of his<br />
birth: at the beginning of the 14 th century, Florence was one<br />
of the great metropolises of the West, besides being one of<br />
the most important international economic “centers”, with few<br />
equals in terms of size and number of inhabitants.<br />
17<br />
During the 13 th century, Florentines had considerably developed<br />
a far-reaching commerce, from which a new and more substantial<br />
source of wealth was derived: the loan of money. The large<br />
accumulations of capital produced were the basis for considerable<br />
urban growth as well as the great architectural achievements<br />
of that period. Furthermore the Florentines were fully aware of<br />
the importance of their city and the economic power it had attained.<br />
For example, it is significant that in a plaque, still in place,<br />
that recalls a minor event such as the 1243 reconstruction of the<br />
Parish Church of Santi Simone e Giuda, in the popular quarter<br />
formed around the “Parlagio”, the city was defined as the main<br />
one in the West: ”…de florentina (civitate) pre qualibet urbe<br />
latina” (1).
18<br />
Above: Map of the main road network of the Republic of Florence / Below: A view of Florence
The Ten Main Roads of the Florentine Republic<br />
Again in the 13 th century, the attraction of Florence on its countryside<br />
led to a traffic system with roads radiating out from the<br />
city, based on direct connections with the various areas in the<br />
district, an index of the latter’s increasingly greater economic<br />
and political subordination to the former. An extract from the<br />
1322-1325 Statuto del Capitano del Popolo, from a chapter that<br />
most likely dates to before the end of the 13 th century, contains<br />
a list of the main roads that led off from Florence which we<br />
quote below (2) and are the ten main roads and routes of the<br />
Florentine Republic:<br />
Via et strata que summit a porta seu Burgo Sancti Niccholai per<br />
quam itur in Vallem Arni (3)<br />
Strata de Chianti que summit initium a pilastro ubi est crux<br />
ultra ponticellum de Ricorboli<br />
Strata per quam itur Pratum et incipit a ponte seu Burgo Sancti Pauli<br />
Strata de Sexto per quam itur Pratum<br />
Strata per quam itur ad Sanctum Petrum de Sieve, versus Bononiam<br />
et versus Gallianum et Sanctam Agatham<br />
Strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve et vadit versus Decomanum<br />
et incipit a Burgo Sancti Petri Maioris<br />
Strata per quam itur ad Sanctum Cassianum, Podium Boniççi et<br />
Sanctum Donatum de Poci<br />
Strata de Giogholis que summitur a porta seu Burgo Sancti<br />
Petri Gattolino<br />
Strata per quam itur Pisas que summitur a porta seu Burgo<br />
Sancti Frediani<br />
As can be determined, the polarizing power of the city, by favoring<br />
a series of links to the main towns in the countryside, gave<br />
birth to a road network that radiated out from the focal point<br />
that was, of course, Florence. The road system was functional<br />
and efficient, its importance to the city’s economy is described<br />
well in Chapter CI, Book V of the 1325 Statuto del Podestà<br />
which says, “…et cum pulcrum et utilitati reipublice bene conveniat<br />
stratas publicas, et maxime illam per quam victualia et<br />
mercantie deferentur ut plurimum in civitatem Florentie” (4).<br />
Besides, most of the ten main roads and routes passed through<br />
the city in a supra-regional road network. Such was the case<br />
of the road that after San Piero a Sieve headed across the Apennines<br />
towards Bologna or of the road that led to the port<br />
of Pisa, or the others, both north and south of the Arno, that<br />
continued until they met up with the Via Francigena, the main<br />
artery in Italy with traffic from all over the continent during the<br />
Middle Ages. This was, for example, the route that led to Poggibonsi,<br />
and then continued “versus civitatem Senarum et versus<br />
Romanam Curiam”, the latter a road “que utilissima est publice<br />
rei”, as stated in the same Chapter CI, Book V of the Statuto<br />
del Podestà (5).<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />
19<br />
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<strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes in the Florentine Countryside<br />
It was precisely on these and other roads whose routes led to<br />
far-reaching developments, that the pilgrims arrived in Florence<br />
passing through the city on their way to Rome; the same roads<br />
were also used by many Florentines thus enlarging the flow of<br />
European wayfarers.<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />
As regards the former, the city had become a transit point for<br />
those – ever more numerous, as we shall see, beginning in the<br />
early 13 th century – who made the pilgrimage to Rome following<br />
routes other than that of the Via Francigena to cross over the<br />
Apennines.<br />
But there were also many Florentines who, undertaking one of<br />
the three peregrinationes maiores (to Rome, Jerusalem and Santiago<br />
de Compostela), began their journey by using those main<br />
roads and routes in the countryside that connected to the Via<br />
Francigena, the backbone of the Italian pilgrimage routes. For<br />
example, the itinerary memoirs from different years left by three<br />
Florentine pilgrims who traveled to Santiago de Compostela during<br />
the 15th century, tell us that two of them joined the Via<br />
Francigena in Lucca, which they reached from Florence following<br />
the strata per quam itur Pratum (6).<br />
However, one could also reach Compostela by sea, and, after<br />
the 12 th century, most embarkations occurred in Pisa and later,<br />
in Leghorn because of the silting up of the port of Luni. Consequently,<br />
the strata per quam itur Pisas was used even by those<br />
who chose to join the Via Francigena in the lower Valdelsa.<br />
20<br />
For those wanting to go to Rome, the connection south of the<br />
Arno to the Via Francigena was chiefly the strata per quam itur<br />
ad Sanctum Cassianum that split into two routes. The first, the<br />
so-called Via Sanese, wound beyond San Casciano over the<br />
ridge of the hills acting as a watershed between the Val di Pesa<br />
and the Valdelsa, reaching the Via Francigena in Siena. The other<br />
route – more properly called a strada romana, because of its<br />
ultimate destination: Rome – instead headed to Poggibonsi, and<br />
there joined the Via Francigena in the mid-Valdelsa (7).<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
The routes passing along the opposite sides of the upper Valdarno<br />
were also tied to the pilgrimages to Rome. In fact, both<br />
the Via Vecchia Aretina and the Strada dei Sette Ponti – to use<br />
the modern names of these two roads – arrived in Arezzo, an<br />
important stop on the so-called Via dell’Alpe di Serra; this latter<br />
was another popular route to Rome for pilgrims that in the Annales<br />
Stadenses – considered the most comprehensive guide to<br />
Rome of the Middle Ages – was defined as the melior via, or the<br />
best way, to reach the Eternal City, at least for pilgrims coming<br />
from Germanic areas (8).
Moreover, beginning in the late Middle Ages, the Via Vecchia<br />
Aretina would also become the first part of the itinerary used<br />
by Florentines to reach another very popular pilgrimage destination,<br />
one that would see significant growth during the Counter-<br />
Reformation period: the Holy House of Loreto (9). It was no coincidence<br />
that the great Spedale del Bigallo hospice complex was<br />
built along this route to serve the pilgrims.<br />
As can be seen, even if only marginally affected by the route of<br />
the Via Francigena, which unfolded in the south-western limits<br />
of the countryside, along the Val d’Elsa, this area that in the<br />
Middle Ages constituted the Florentine countryside was crossed<br />
by routes that were an integral part of the “system” of pilgrimage<br />
routes. The reason being that Florence, like all large cities<br />
in Western Christendom, from at least the 12 th century onward<br />
contributed abundantly to supplying the flood of pilgrims heading<br />
towards the main loca sacra of Christianity (and the abundance<br />
of documentary evidence would suffice to attest it).<br />
Furthermore, along the roads in the countryside around Florence<br />
traveled by these pious wayfarers departing from the city were<br />
many minor pilgrimage destinations also much frequented by<br />
Florentines. We refer here to the sanctuaries where miraculous<br />
sacred images of the Madonna were worshiped, places such<br />
as Impruneta, the Madonna del Sasso in Lobaco or the parish<br />
church in Cercina, to name but a few. Or those places whose<br />
holiness was derived from the existence of the tomb or relics<br />
of a local saint, like the sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino in Panzano,<br />
the oratory of Beato Gherardo in Villamagna, the Church of the<br />
Beata Giulia in Signa, and the sanctuary of Santa Verdiana in<br />
Castelfiorentino.<br />
21<br />
Fresco by Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Welcoming the <strong>Pilgrim</strong>s. Oratory of Buonomini di San Martino
1200: Florence, an important stop on the way to Rome<br />
Florence’s association with pilgrimages became even more pronounced<br />
in the 13 th century when, as mentioned above, the city<br />
became an obligatory stop for the majority of those who were<br />
making the pilgrimage to Rome. Over the course of that century,<br />
in fact, it might be said that the Via Francigena was “abducted”<br />
by the city on the Arno. Indeed, the preferred route to Rome<br />
was no longer the ancient road that had developed in the late<br />
Middle Ages – crossing the Apennines at the Monte Bardone<br />
Pass, then heading towards Lucca, until finally reaching Siena<br />
through the Val d’Elsa – but rather on the road that connected<br />
Bologna directly to Florence through the Apennine passes of the<br />
Mugello (first, the Osteria Bruciata Pass, later the Giogo Pass<br />
near Scarperia), and then continued towards Siena using roads<br />
that had previously connected the city of Florence with the Via<br />
Francigena at Poggibonsi or Siena (10).<br />
The new route to Rome would also be the main traffic conduit<br />
between the Po River valley and peninsular Italy, along which<br />
moved massive flows of people, goods and money, attracted<br />
by Florence’s economic and financial power, which reached its<br />
zenith right in the 13 th century as evidenced by the mintage in<br />
1252 of the gold coin (the florin), which joined the silver one,<br />
minted as early as 1235.<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from the Villa Bardini garden<br />
22
The Rise of <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Hospices in the City of Florence<br />
Evidence of the new and important role played by the city in the<br />
pilgrimage road system is seen in the foundation of many pilgrim<br />
hospices between the 13 th and 14 th centuries. A typical example<br />
of Florentine spirituality, expressed in purely religious forms as<br />
well as in works of charity, the pilgrim hospices were distributed<br />
throughout the city, but especially in the areas closest to the city<br />
gates and the stretches of roads just outside of these gates (11).<br />
A particular concentration of hospices was found along the city<br />
route from Porta San Gallo to Porta San Pietro Gattolino (now<br />
Porta Romana) continuing what had by then become the strada<br />
regia romana within the city walls.<br />
During the 13 th century, any changes in the pilgrimage road system<br />
– at least as regarded the route to Rome – also affected<br />
the Florentine countryside. Of the streets that radiated out from<br />
Florence then used primarily by pilgrims to Rome, the ones that<br />
stood out were the countryside’s main roads and routes. Both<br />
the road that led through the Mugello to Bologna and the ancient<br />
links to the Via Francigena (the Via Sanese and the Via<br />
Romana) experienced a consequent build-up of accommodation<br />
and charitable facilities as a result of the increased traffic. Inns<br />
and hostels thus dotted the routes and many pilgrim hospices<br />
were also built, the most important of which were located at<br />
the main stopping points: Tagliaferro, Scarperia, Firenzuola, and<br />
Pietramala on the road to Bologna, and San Casciano, Castellina<br />
and Poggibonsi on the two routes to Rome (12).<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />
Reconstruction of the San Giovanni Evangelista Hospice in Florence<br />
23<br />
www.vieromee.it
Notes<br />
(1) The plaque, in fact, is found on the facade of the Church of San Simone,<br />
in the small square of the same name that opens near Via Torta, the city street<br />
whose curvilinear progression traces the perimeter of the ancient amphitheater<br />
of Florentia, whose remains in the Middle Ages were called Parlagio.<br />
(2) Cf. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto<br />
del Capitano del Popolo degli anni 1322-1325, vol.I, Libro IV, Capitolo VIII,<br />
p.175, Firenze 1921.<br />
(3) It is the road that connected Florence and Arezzo and corresponds to the<br />
current Via Vecchia Aretina.<br />
(4) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto<br />
del Podestà dell’anno 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, p.428, Firenze 1921.<br />
(5) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto del<br />
Podestà del 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, ibidem, Firenze 1921.<br />
(6) Cfr. R. Stopani, Il “camino” italiano per Santiago de Compostela. Le fonti<br />
itinerarie di età medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 2001, pp. 51-72 and pp.73-86.<br />
In both the memoirs, the pilgrimage, beyond Lucca, continued following the<br />
route of the Via Francigena crossing the Alps through the Moncenisio Pass.<br />
The pilgrim who wrote the third 15 th -century memoir (pp. 90-105) from Florence<br />
instead reached Bologna; he continued along the Via Emilia as far as<br />
Borgo San Donnino and there joined the Via Francigena, also crossing the<br />
Alps through the Moncenisio Pass.<br />
(7) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena in Toscana. Storia di una strada medievale,<br />
Salimbeni, Firenze, pp. 61-64.<br />
(8) Cfr. Annales Stadenses auctore Alberto, in Monumenta Germaniae Historica”,<br />
Scriptores, vol. XVI, pp. 335-341, Hannoverae 1858.<br />
24<br />
(9) The numerous itinerary memoirs of the pilgrimage to Loreto refer primarily<br />
to the 16 th -17 th centuries. Let us recall for its completeness the Libro della<br />
Compagnia della Santissima Trinità, del 1577, (National Central Library of<br />
Florence, Ms. Magl. Cl. XIII, cod.78), and Il pellegrinaggio alla Santa Casa di<br />
Loreto in A Roma per il Giubileo del 1575 con la Confraternita della Santissima<br />
Trinità, Le Lettere, Firenze 2000, pp. 91-112, published by R. Stopani.<br />
(10) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena all’epoca dei primi Giubilei. La strada<br />
cambia itinerario e diviene via regia romana in La via Francigena. Storia di una<br />
strada medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 1998, pp.138-149.<br />
(11) Cfr. R. Stopani (edited by), Firenze e i primi Giubilei. Un momento di storia<br />
fiorentina della solidarietà, Centro Studi Romei, Firenze 1999, pp. 22-29.<br />
(12) Cfr. AA.VV., Percorsi e valichi dell’Appennino fra storia e leggenda. Futa,<br />
Osteria Bruciata, Giogo, Firenze 1985, pp. 85-108 e R. Stopani, Le vie del<br />
Giubileo. Guida, storia, percorsi, Erremme, Roma 1996, pp. 41-102.
1 st Itinerary<br />
FLORENCE<br />
THE URBAN TOUR<br />
At the beginning of the 14 th century, in his Cronica (Libro XI,<br />
Capitolo XCIV) Giovanni Villani - with legitimate pride in his city -<br />
wrote that in Florence there were “thirty hospices with more than<br />
one thousand beds to accommodate the poor and the infirm”. In<br />
fact, the city had a system of charitable institutions that, alongside<br />
the modest facilities offering a few beds to foreigners passing<br />
through and to the needy, envisaged the large spedali, or hospices,<br />
considered an expression and symbol of the city since they<br />
had been erected with the participation of all the population “ad<br />
utilitatem animarum et decorum civitatis”. From the 13 th century<br />
on, because of the massive flows of people and goods caused<br />
by the network of business relations that radiated from Florence,<br />
the bulk of traffic heading into the Italian peninsula from the<br />
north converged in the new trans-Apennine passes of the Mugello.<br />
Then there was the pilgrim traffic to Rome, as the city on the<br />
Arno had become a requisite stopping point for all those who<br />
were going ad limina Beati Petri. Hence the need for adequate<br />
accommodation and charitable facilities to meet the needs of all<br />
those (pilgrims or travelers) who passed through the city.<br />
25
1 st Itinerary<br />
FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
3<br />
5<br />
6<br />
9<br />
10<br />
7<br />
8<br />
11<br />
12<br />
26<br />
13<br />
16<br />
15<br />
14<br />
Porta San Pietro Gattolino<br />
Portal architrave of San Giovanni Battista della Calza
HOSPICES ALONG THE URBAN TOUR<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Convent of Sant’Agata<br />
Mantellate Conservatory<br />
Former hospice<br />
of Bonifazio<br />
Church of San Giovannino<br />
dei Cavalieri<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
8<br />
Church of Gesù Pellegrino<br />
Former hospice<br />
of San Matteo<br />
Hospice<br />
of Santa Maria Nuova<br />
Oratory of San Tommaso<br />
9<br />
10<br />
11<br />
12<br />
Former hospice of Bigallo<br />
Compagnia dei<br />
Buonomini di San Martino<br />
Former hospice of Santo<br />
Sepolcro al Ponte Vecchio<br />
Oratory<br />
of San Sebastiano dei Bini<br />
13<br />
14<br />
15<br />
16<br />
Former hospice of<br />
San Niccolò, or della Buca<br />
Former hospice<br />
of San Pier Novello<br />
Former hospice of Spirito<br />
Santo, or Piccione<br />
Church of San Giovanni<br />
Battista alla Calza<br />
27<br />
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Starting point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
(coming from Via Bolognese)<br />
End point: Porta San Pietro Gattolino (Florence)<br />
(entering Via Romana or Via Sanese)<br />
Level of difficulty: easy<br />
Elevation gain: none<br />
Distance: 5 km<br />
Travel time: 1 h 30’
The always open door of mercy<br />
Erected mainly over the course of the 13 th century or in the<br />
early decades of the 14 th century, the hospices played a key<br />
role in the 13 th -century development of the urban structure of<br />
Florence, tending to be located in the newly developed areas<br />
of the city, namely the “villages” outside the 12 th -century walls<br />
along the roads radiating into the countryside. Their growth<br />
was linked to a sort of “civic religiosity” found in all levels of the<br />
populace and which favored the “spirituality of deeds”, finding<br />
expression in the construction of charitable facilities. The<br />
Signoria could rightly state that the city kept “the door of mercy<br />
[always open] to the great and the lowly, the infirm and the<br />
vigorous, and to wayfarers”.<br />
1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />
The hospices inside the city were found in those areas near the<br />
gates that marked the start of the main roads. The north-south<br />
artery across the city was the most important – the natural<br />
continuation inside the city walls of the roads that connected<br />
Florence to Bologna and Rome, respectively. There was a particular<br />
concentration of hospices along the route that ran from<br />
Porta San Gallo in the oldest part of the city, across the Arno<br />
at the Ponte Vecchio, to Porta San Pietro Gattolino (nowadays,<br />
Porta Romana).<br />
Via San Gallo. In the foreground, the church of the hospice of the Mantellate<br />
28<br />
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IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
Accommodation in the city<br />
The main Florentine hospital structures were in oldest part of the<br />
city and, beginning in the 15 th century, they became increasingly<br />
specialized as they assumed different functions: the hospital<br />
of Santa Maria Nuova, founded in 1286, became the largest<br />
hospital in the city; the hospice of San Matteo, established<br />
in the 14 th century by the moneychanger Lemmo Balducci; the<br />
hospice of the Innocenti, established as a shelter for abandoned<br />
children; and the hospice of Bonifazio, named after its<br />
founder, Messer Bonifazio Lupi.<br />
Besides the north-south route, many hospices were in the areas<br />
of the city along roads leading to the other gates. From Porta al<br />
Prato and the nearby Porta Faenza (the latter’s remains being<br />
incorporated in one of the bastions of the Fortezza da Basso), heavily<br />
traveled roads branched off towards Pistoia, Prato and other<br />
towns in the Florentine valley. Near these gates, famous hospitals<br />
were established whose buildings – renovated and enlarged several<br />
times over the years – can still be seen: the hospice of San<br />
Giovanni di Dio on Borgo Ognissanti, the hospice of the Scala<br />
on Via della Scala, the hospice of the Convalescenti in Piazza<br />
Santa Maria Novella, the Templar hospice of San Jacopo in<br />
Campo Corbolini on Via Faenza, and the hospice of Sant’Antonio<br />
(the current “Cenacolo di Fuligno”).<br />
Near Porta San Frediano, the beginning of the strata per quam<br />
itur Pisas, heavily trafficked because of the goods going to Pisa,<br />
the natural outlet to the sea of Florence, was the structure known<br />
as the hospice of Buonamico while going towards Porta alla<br />
Croce, at the head of the strata per quam itur ad Pontem de<br />
Sieve was another hospice run by the Templars, situated prope<br />
ecclesiam Sanctae Crucis: the church of Santa Maria della Croce<br />
al Tempio, which still overlooks Via dei Malcontenti.<br />
29<br />
Hospice of the Innocenti
The urban tour being recommended is the same as the one<br />
pilgrims once followed upon arriving in Florence from Via Bolognese.<br />
They entered the city through Porta San Gallo and<br />
proceeded towards Porta San Pietro Gattolino, where the<br />
road joined either Via Romana or Via Sanese, both of which<br />
led to Siena and then on to Rome. The greatest number of pilgrim<br />
hospices was concentrated along this route – often modest<br />
structures with only a few beds as well as important charitable<br />
institutions of the city.<br />
In front of Porta San Gallo, just outside the walls, was the pilgrim<br />
hospice that had given its name to the gate and the street<br />
that began there. For more than three centuries, it was one of<br />
the largest hospices in Florence, founded in 1218 by Guidalotto<br />
Voltodellorco to serve the poor, the needy and pilgrims. The<br />
eight-building complex however was completely demolished<br />
during the 16 th century for defensive reasons at the time of the<br />
siege of Florence.<br />
Entering the city, along Via San Gallo, the pilgrims immediately<br />
found, in the following order, the hospices of Santa Caterina<br />
de’ Talani, San Gherardo and Sant’Onofrio. Two convents<br />
later rose on the sites of these hospices. The first was that of<br />
the Mantellate 2 , which became a boarding school in the 18 th<br />
century; its church, from the 17 th century, houses paintings by<br />
Stradano and Jacopo Vignali; the other was the Convent of<br />
Sant’Agata 1 (now part of the Military Hospital), its late 16 th -<br />
century church contains a beautiful painting by Alessandro Allori<br />
depicting the Wedding in Cana and two frescoes by Giovanni<br />
Bizzelli (the Martyrdom and Burial of Saint Agatha).<br />
30<br />
The hospice of San Matteo on Piazza San Marco, nowadays the Academy of Fine Arts
The pilgrims then found themselves in front of the majestic hospice<br />
of Bonifazio 3 , whose loggias – redone in 1787 – still<br />
face the street today. Built between 1377 and 1387 by Bonifazio<br />
Lupi, the marchese of Soragna, valiant captain of the Florentines,<br />
the hospices originally had 34 beds. Considerably enlarged<br />
later, it incorporated other hospices found on Via San Gallo, like<br />
the San Dionisio hospice which was situated in front of the previously<br />
mentioned Church of Sant’Agata (it subsequently became<br />
the Monastery of the Ceppo). Over the course of its long<br />
history, the hospice of Bonifazio had many different uses: first<br />
(1736), it became a conservatory, then a hospice for the chronically<br />
ill, and finally a mental hospice, continuing to serve this<br />
function until its suppression.<br />
A little further on was the hospice of the Broccardi, which<br />
was connected to the hospice of Bonifazio, followed by others<br />
such as San Giovanni Battista Decollato and Gesù Pellegrino.<br />
The former was found on the spot where today stands the<br />
church popularly known as San Giovannino dei Cavalieri 4 :<br />
it was closed in the 16 th century when the hospital nuns of San<br />
Giovanni di Gerusalemme, which were affiliated with the Order<br />
of Malta, established there. The 16 th -century church contains<br />
works of a certain value, including a Nativity by Bicci di Lorenzo<br />
and a Crucifix with Mary and St. John, attributed to Lorenzo<br />
Monaco. The hospice of Gesù Pellegrino 5 , also known as<br />
the hospice of the Compagnia Dei Pretoni, of which only the<br />
church – restored in the 16 th century – remains, was abolished<br />
at the end of the 17 th century. Inside the church is the tombstone<br />
of Arlotto, a parish priest famous for his humor, on which<br />
there is an inscription he himself wrote: “QUESTA SEPOLTURA IL<br />
PIEVANO ARLOTTO FECE FARE PER SÉ E PER CHI CI VUOLE EN-<br />
TRARE” (“Father Arlotto had this tomb made for himself and for<br />
all those who want to enter”). The carved-stone coat-of-arms of<br />
the hospice depicts the figure of a pilgrim complete with staff<br />
and haversack; it is set in a wall in one of the buildings beside<br />
the church that presumably used the buildings of the hospice.<br />
1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />
31<br />
From the hospice of Gesù Pellegrino, turning from Via San Gallo<br />
onto Via degli Arazzieri, we enter Piazza San Marco, with the<br />
loggia of the hospice of San Matteo 6 (today, the Academy of<br />
Fine Arts) facing the square. This hospice was founded in 1385<br />
by the rich merchant Guglielmo Balducci, known as Lemmo,<br />
and was later run by the Money Changers’ Guild. It was one of<br />
the main charitable institutions in Florence with sixty beds that<br />
were predominantly used to receive the poor and the sick.<br />
Returning to Via San Gallo and continuing on – with the street’s<br />
name changing to Via dei Ginori – we arrive in Piazza San Lorenzo<br />
where one of the oldest hospices in Florence once stood. First documented<br />
in the early 12 th century, it was near the Basilica di San<br />
Lorenzo, and rose near one of the gates in the “old town walls”.<br />
www.vieromee.it
Taking a detour from Piazza San Lorenzo, we continue on Via<br />
dei Gori, Via dei Pucci and then, Via Bufalini, until we reach the<br />
hospice of Santa Maria Nuova 7 , Florence’s main hospital,<br />
still working, called arch-hospital, for both its size and importance.<br />
Founded in 1285 by the merchant Folco Portinari, a leading<br />
political figure, it was established specifically to treat and care<br />
for the sick. Despite the continuous overlapping of new additions<br />
to the original buildings over the centuries, the hospital<br />
has maintained its majestic, late medieval cruciform structure<br />
that could accommodate more than 600 patients at the end of<br />
the 15 th century. In addition, there still is the ancient church of<br />
Sant’Egidio (San Gilio), built on Lorenzo di Bicci’s design and later<br />
altered. The façade with the elegant colonnade dates back<br />
to the early 17 th century; it was built by Giulio Parigi on a design<br />
by Bernardo Buontalenti.<br />
1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />
32<br />
Not far from Santa Maria Nuova was the hospice of the Pellegrini<br />
Oltramontani, one got there continuing along Via Sant’Egidio<br />
turning left to reach Via della Pergola. It was founded by<br />
Santi Cini, a Dominican friar and close friend of Saint Philip Neri,<br />
to house pilgrims to Rome who had crossed the Alps, that were<br />
taken in and fed for several days by the Compagnia dei Contemplanti,<br />
whose members were the scions of noble Florentine<br />
families. Adjoining the hospice was a church dedicated to St.<br />
Thomas Aquinas 8 , its original, late Renaissance architectural<br />
features still intact. It was built on a design by Santi di Tito, who<br />
was also responsible for the premises of the hospice that has<br />
also maintained the original 16 th -century structural and room<br />
layout, including a large, classical-style fireplace in pietra serena.<br />
Standing again before the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, we<br />
turn left into Via Folco Portinari and then right into Via dell’Oriuolo,<br />
continuing until we arrive in Piazza del Duomo. Here,<br />
between the baptistery and the façade of the original Cathedral<br />
of Santa Reparata, there once rose another of the city’s ancient<br />
hospital institutions: the hospital of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />
(reconstruction on page 21). It was founded in 1040 by the<br />
Chapter of the Cathedral and later demolished to make way for<br />
the larger Santa Maria del Fiore.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
On Piazza del Duomo at the corner of Via dei Calzaioli is the<br />
14 th -century Loggia del Bigallo, which, until the late 16 th century,<br />
was the seat of the Archconfraternity of Misericordia, the<br />
ancient and glorious Florentine institution that looked, and still<br />
today looks, after the sick. The loggia takes its name from the<br />
fact that since 1425 it was also the seat of the Compagnia del<br />
Bigallo 9 , which oversaw various charitable institutes in the<br />
city and the countryside, including the hospice of Bigallo, on<br />
Via Vecchia Aretina, from which its name was derived. Two large<br />
marble arches, filled with sculptures and ornamental motifs, are<br />
at the base of the building, which is dominated by a floor with
elegant trefoil double-lancet windows. There is a small museum<br />
inside with mostly 14 th -15 th century works, including a detached<br />
fresco from 1342, that displays the oldest view of Florence.<br />
We now take Via dei Calzaioli, turning immediately left into Via<br />
delle Oche and then right into Via Santa Elisabetta where we<br />
continue into Via dei Cerchi. About halfway along the street,<br />
we turn to the left where we find the Piazzetta of San Martino<br />
del Vescovo, on which stands, in addition to the House of Dante<br />
and the Torre della Castagna, the Oratory of the Compagnia<br />
dei Buonomini di San Martino 10 , a small hospice linked to an<br />
ancient Florentine confraternity. On the walls of the small singlenave<br />
oratory is a fresco cycle painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio<br />
in the 15 th century that depicts the Works of Mercy. In one of the<br />
scenes two pilgrims holding staffs are received; two bonomini,<br />
good men, give money to a servant to prepare a bed for them –<br />
seen in the background – and something to eat and drink.<br />
Returning to Via dei Cerchi, we go to the end of the street and<br />
arrive in Piazza della Signoria. We enter the Uffizi loggia, off<br />
of which we take Via Lambertesca until it meets Via Por Santa<br />
Maria, the street that leads us to the Ponte Vecchio. After crossing<br />
the bridge, in the platea in capite pontis we find the two<br />
hospices of San Miniato and of Santo Sepolcro 11 . Both<br />
ancient hospices date back to the 11 th century. The latter, that<br />
belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, still retains its<br />
13 th -century façade, with a Jerusalem cross carved on a marble<br />
plaque with the old street number.<br />
We then take Borgo San Jacopo, Via Toscanella, and then Sdrucciolo<br />
dei Pitti – two narrow streets sided by tall buildings characteristic<br />
of the old Florence – until we come to Piazza Pitti. At<br />
33<br />
18 th -century drawing of the loggia of the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova
the end of the square, we find the beginning of Via Romana that<br />
leads to the gate of the same name, the Porta Romana. In the<br />
Middle Ages, the street was dotted with hospices. The first one<br />
encountered was the hospice of Sant’Antonio, built in 1316,<br />
then the 13 th -century hospice of San Sebastiano de’ Bini 12<br />
connected to the prestigious Roman institution of Santo Spirito<br />
in Sassia, as still indicated by the double cross carved into a<br />
14 th -century architrave in the wall of the façade of the 15 th -16 th -<br />
century oratory that rose where the hospice had been.<br />
Just beyond was the hospice of San Niccolò dei Fantoni 13<br />
known as the Buca from the name of the tavern near which it<br />
had been built. A stone coat of arms with the insignia of the<br />
Compagnia del Bigallo, from which the hospice depended, is<br />
found in the wall of the building later erected in its place. It also<br />
houses a mid-15 th -century detached fresco depicting the Madonna<br />
with Child between Two Angels.<br />
Continuing on, almost in front of the Annalena gate, the entrance<br />
to the Boboli gardens, was the small hospice of San Pier<br />
Novello 14 , founded by Piero di Cione Ridolfi in about the mid-<br />
14 th century. It was popularly called the hospice of the Chiocciola,<br />
only a dilapidated architrave remains of it, carved with the<br />
inscription: “HOSPITIUM NOBILIS RODULPH… FAMILIAE”.<br />
Then there was the hospice of San Lorenzo and, after the<br />
church of San Pietro Gattolino, the hospice of Madonna Santa<br />
Maria e dello Spirito Santo 15 , belonging to the Laudesi,<br />
commonly called Il Piccione or dove, because of the symbol of<br />
the Holy Spirit carved on the door lintel, with the inscription<br />
“HOSPITALE S.MARIE DE LAUDIBUS”.<br />
34<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Ponte Vecchio
At the end of the street was the hospice of San Giovanni Battista<br />
della Calza 16 , originally of the Knights of St. John of<br />
Jerusalem; it later became a convent of Jesuati monks whose<br />
long stocking-like hood gave rise to their nickname of calza,<br />
or stocking. The church, which presumably reused the hospice<br />
structures, has a 14 th -century portal lintel; inside is a crucifix<br />
attributed to Lorenzo Monaco and a panel by Empoli, while in<br />
the convent refectory is a 1514 painting of the Last Supper by<br />
Franciabigio.<br />
Somewhere near Porta Romana – the exact location uncertain<br />
because it was destroyed – was a final hospice: San Bartolomeo<br />
ad Sanctum Petrum Cattuarium (that later became San<br />
Pietro in Gattolino), founded by Sennuccio Del Bene who was a<br />
friend of Petrarch.<br />
Beyond the gate was the beginning of the strata qua itur versus<br />
civitatem Senarum et versus Romanam Curiam, whose stretch<br />
closer to the city was also dotted with hospices and other accommodation<br />
structures (e.g., hostels, inns) for travelers and pilgrims.<br />
Detail of the Palazzo Vecchio with the Uffizi in the background<br />
35<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR
ACCOMMODATION FACILITIES IN FLORENCE<br />
36<br />
Archi Rossi<br />
Via Faenza, 94r<br />
50123 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 290804 - Fax: 055 2302121<br />
info@hostelarchirossi.com<br />
www.hostelarchirossi.com<br />
Casa del SS. Rosario<br />
Via G. Monaco, 24<br />
50144 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 321171 - Fax: 055 3217337<br />
Casa Don Secchiaroli<br />
Via Borghini, 23/25<br />
50133 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 578100 - Fax: 055 589339<br />
info@casadonsecchiaroli.it<br />
www.casadonsecchiaroli.it<br />
Casa Madonna del Rosario<br />
Via Capo di Mondo, 44<br />
50136 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 679621 - Fax: 055 677133<br />
info@madonnadelrosario.it<br />
www.madonnadelrosario.it<br />
Casa per ferie San Marco<br />
Via Venezia, 18b<br />
50121 Florence - Tel: 055 579603<br />
www.italianroom.it<br />
Casa Regina del Santo Rosario<br />
Via G. Giusti, 35 - 50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2477636 - Fax: 055 2269149<br />
Casa Santo Nome di Gesù<br />
Piazza del Carmine, 21<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 213856 - Fax: 055 281835<br />
info@fmmFlorence.it<br />
www.fmmFlorence.it<br />
Conservatorio S. Maria degli Angeli<br />
Via della Colonna, 34<br />
50121 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2478051 - Fax: 055 2480985<br />
angeli.fi@tiscali.it<br />
www.conservatorioangeli.it<br />
C.S.D. Istituto Gould<br />
Via dei Serragli, 49<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 212576 - Fax: 055 280274<br />
foresteriaFlorence@diaconiavaldese.org<br />
www.istitutogould.it<br />
Deltachi<br />
Via Silvio Spaventa, 4<br />
50129 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 5001392 - Fax: 055 5001392<br />
info@deltachi.it - www.deltachi.it<br />
Gallo D’oro<br />
Via Cavour, 104<br />
50129 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 5522964 - Fax: 055 5534823<br />
info@ostellogallodoro.com<br />
www.ostellogallodoro.com<br />
Hostel A Fi 9<br />
Via Ricasoli, 9<br />
50122 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2398665 - Fax: 055 2645447<br />
info@academyhostels.com<br />
www.academyhostels.com<br />
Istituto Alfa Nuova<br />
Via E. Poggi, 6<br />
50129 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 472883 - 055 476280<br />
Fax: 055 488437<br />
Istituto del Sacro Cuore<br />
Viale Michelangelo, 27<br />
50125 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 6811872 - Fax: 055 6811388<br />
info@sacrocuore.com<br />
www.sacrocuore.com<br />
Istituto Salesiano dell’Immacolata<br />
Via del Ghirlandaio, 40<br />
50121 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 62300<br />
Fax: 055 6230282<br />
www.salesianiFlorence.it<br />
Istituto San Francesco di Sales<br />
Viale L. Ariosto, 13<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 224190<br />
Istituto San Giovanni Battista<br />
Via di Ripoli, 82<br />
50126 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 6802394 - Fax: 055 6815228<br />
istituto@merlobianco.it<br />
Istituto San Gregorio<br />
Via Francesco Bonaini, 9a<br />
50134 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 480955<br />
Fax: 055 475832<br />
Istituto Santa Chiara<br />
Via Borgognissanti, 56<br />
50123 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 215915<br />
Istituto Suore Oblate Spirito Santo<br />
Via Nazionale, 8<br />
50123 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2398202<br />
Fax: 055 2398129
Istituto Suore Rave di S. Elisabetta<br />
Viale Michelangelo, 46<br />
50125 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 6811884 - Fax: 055 6811884<br />
s.elisabetta.fi@tiscali.it<br />
Madonna Divina Provvidenza<br />
Via S. Biagio a Petriolo, 33<br />
50145 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 317263 - Fax: 055 317263<br />
sroblatepetr@alice.it<br />
Monaco 34<br />
Via Guido Monaco, 34<br />
50144 Florence<br />
Tel: 055321018<br />
info@ciaohostel.com<br />
www.ciaohostel.com<br />
New Ostel<br />
Via I. Peri, 3<br />
50144 Florence<br />
Tel e Fax: 0555272220<br />
info@newostel.com<br />
www.newostel.com<br />
Ostello 7 Santi<br />
Viale dei Mille, 11<br />
50131 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 5048452<br />
Fax: 055 5057085<br />
info@7santi.com<br />
www.7santi.com<br />
Ostello Centrale<br />
Via Faenza, 46/r<br />
50123 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 268481<br />
Fax: 055 268481<br />
Ostello Il Kantiere<br />
Via del Cavallaccio, 1/Q<br />
50142 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 7331270<br />
segreteria@kantiereFlorence.it<br />
www.kantiereFlorence.it<br />
Ostello Santa Monaca<br />
Via Santa Monaca, 6<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 268338 - 055 2396704<br />
Fax: 055 280185<br />
info@ostello.it<br />
www.ostello.it<br />
Ostello Villa Camerata<br />
Viale A. Righi, 2/4<br />
50137 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300<br />
Florence@aighostels.com<br />
www.ostelloFlorence.it<br />
Pensionato Pio X<br />
Via dei Serragli, 106<br />
50123 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 225044<br />
Fax: 055 225044<br />
Pensionato S. Filippo Neri<br />
Via dell’ Anguillara, 25<br />
50122 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 215701<br />
Fax: 055 215701<br />
pensionato@oratoriosanfilippo.it<br />
www.oratoriosanfilippo.it<br />
Plus Ostello Florence<br />
Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 15/17<br />
50129 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 4628934<br />
Fax: 055 4628934<br />
info@plusflorence.com<br />
www.plusflorence.com<br />
Pr. I. M.S.C. Alfa Nuova<br />
Via E. Poggi, 6<br />
50129 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 472883<br />
Fax: 055 488437<br />
Suore Oblate dell’Assunzione<br />
Via Borgo Pinti, 15<br />
50121 Florence<br />
Tel: 0552480582<br />
Fax: 0552346291<br />
Villa Agape<br />
Via Torre del Gallo, 8/10<br />
50125 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 220044<br />
Fax: 055 2337012<br />
Villa I Cancelli<br />
Via Incontri, 21<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 4226001<br />
Fax: 055 4226037<br />
villaicancelli@alice.it<br />
Villa Maria SS. Assunta<br />
Via delle Forbici, 38<br />
50133 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 577690<br />
Fax: 055 570156<br />
Youth Residence Florence 2000<br />
Viale R. Sanzio, 16<br />
50124 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2335558<br />
Fax: 055 2306392<br />
bed@dada.it<br />
www.cheap-hotel-florence.com<br />
37
INFORMATION<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
Bike rentals<br />
APT Florence<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Via Cavour, 1r<br />
Tel: 055290832 - 055290833<br />
info1@Florenceturismo.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Saturday<br />
8.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m.<br />
Sundays and holidays 8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />
www.Florenceturismo.it<br />
Other APT offices in Florence<br />
Via Manzoni 16<br />
Tel: 055 23320<br />
Aeroporto “A. Vespucci”<br />
Tel: 055 315874<br />
Municipality of Florence<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Piazza Stazione<br />
Tel: 055 212245<br />
turismo3@comune.fi.it<br />
Municipality of Florence<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Borgo S. Croce 29r<br />
Tel: 055 2340444 - 055 2264524<br />
turismo2@comune.fi.it<br />
Alinari<br />
Bicycles and scooters for hire<br />
Via Guelfa, 85r<br />
Tel: 055 280500<br />
www.alinarirental.com<br />
Florence by bike<br />
Bicycles and scooters for hire<br />
Via S.Zanobi, 120/122r<br />
Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />
www.florencebybike.it<br />
Rent Way<br />
P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />
50122 - Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2398890<br />
Cell: 333 9619820<br />
www.rentway.it<br />
info@rentway.it<br />
Events and fairs<br />
38<br />
• Bacco Artigiano (26 September)<br />
• Benedizione del vino (September)<br />
• Capodanno toscano (29 March)<br />
• Festival of Magi (6 January)<br />
• Festa della Rificolona (7 September)<br />
• Feast of San Lorenzo (10 August)<br />
• Feast of Santa Reparata (7 - 8 October)<br />
• Feast of Sant’Anna (26 July)<br />
• La Fiorita (23 May)<br />
• Ricordo di Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici<br />
(18 February)<br />
• Scoppio del Carro (12 April)<br />
• Torneo del Calcio Storico (24 June)
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Palazzo Vecchio from Via dei Cerchi<br />
39<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR
40<br />
The City of Florence Welcoming the Poor and the Needy, “Libro del Biadaiolo”
2 nd Itinerary<br />
THE VIA SANESE<br />
Connecting to the<br />
Via Francigena in Siena<br />
41<br />
For connections to Siena (and then to Rome) among the main<br />
roads in their own countryside, Florentines preferred to use the<br />
road known as Sanctus Donatus in Pocis, or the Via Sanese as its<br />
ultimate destination was Siena. It was the shortest route to Siena,<br />
where it joined the Via Francigena and, not coincidentally, was<br />
also used by pilgrims on their way to Rome after passing through<br />
Florence, as seen from the pilgrims’ memoirs. Significantly, however,<br />
it is along this road that one finds the oldest documented<br />
bridge in Florence: the Ponte della Sambuca also called Romagliano<br />
(or Romagnano), mentioned as early as the 12 th century,<br />
which demonstrates the importance and age of the road.
2 nd Itinerary<br />
THE VIA SANESE<br />
Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Uopini<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
42<br />
THE ITINERARY<br />
Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
Elevation gain:<br />
600<br />
500<br />
400<br />
300<br />
200<br />
100<br />
00
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 83.3<br />
Distance (alternative routes): km 23.4<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze<br />
Distance: km 15.6<br />
Page 48<br />
Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi<br />
Waypoints: San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />
Distance: km 14<br />
Page 54<br />
Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio<br />
Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca<br />
Distance: km 15.5<br />
Page 58<br />
Leg 3, Alternative Route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio<br />
Waypoints: Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa<br />
Distance: km 8.9<br />
Page 62<br />
Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti<br />
Waypoints: Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto<br />
Distance: km 17.2<br />
Page 64<br />
Leg 4, Alternative Route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta<br />
Waypoints: Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosio, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli,<br />
Distance: km 14.5<br />
Page 68<br />
Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena)<br />
Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km)<br />
Distance: km 21<br />
Page 74<br />
Uopini - Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
Distance: km 7.2<br />
43<br />
The route alternates stretches on secondary asphalt roads and dirt roads. The path<br />
is well marked and presents no orientation difficulties. From the village of San<br />
Donato in Poggio, the route is basically a hike on forest roads and trails. The two<br />
alternative routes are also hikes.<br />
The legs can be easily walked. There are no particular problems with finding water<br />
or other refreshments, except on the two alternative routes.<br />
The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent climbs. The scenery is exceptionally<br />
beautiful with historical and cultural elements typical of the rural Tuscan<br />
economy.<br />
Two alternative routes are suggested. The first is more panoramic, the second<br />
goes to Sant’Eufrosino, a local pilgrimage destination.<br />
Note: The route joins the Via Francigena in Siena. There are many gates along<br />
the farm roads that keep the wildlife away from the crops. Do not leave the gates<br />
open, once having passed through.<br />
To cover the most urbanized and heavily trafficked areas, we recommend going<br />
the final 7.2-km stretch between Uopini and Siena by bus.
2 nd Itinerary<br />
THE VIA SANESE<br />
Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
44<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the countryside south of Florence
BIKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 90,5<br />
Distance (alternative routes): km 23,4<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-C<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
List of itinerary legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Montefiridolfi<br />
Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze,<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />
Distance: km 29,6<br />
Page 48<br />
Leg 2: Montefiridolfi – Castellina in Chianti<br />
Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca, San Donato in Poggio, Pietracupa,<br />
San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto<br />
Distance: km 32,7<br />
Page 58<br />
Leg 3: Castellina in Chianti – Siena<br />
Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km), Uopini<br />
Distance: km 28,2<br />
Page 74<br />
Leg 2 / 3, Alternative Route:<br />
(A) Badia a Passignano – Panzano<br />
(B) Panzano – Pietrafitta<br />
Waypoints: (A) Rignana, Fornace, Pitracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino<br />
(B) Lucarelli<br />
Distance: km 23,4<br />
Page 62<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Badia a Passignano<br />
Pietracupa<br />
Panzano<br />
Pietrafitta<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
45<br />
6.6 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
8.9 km<br />
Time: 1h00’<br />
10.0 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
4.5 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
33.2 km<br />
Time: 2h40’<br />
The main itinerary, in the stretch between S.Donato in Poggio and Querciagrossa,<br />
and the “Leg 2 and 3” alternative route are demanding and suitable for bicyclists<br />
of medium technical skill. The “Leg 2 and 3” route may have an alternative stop in<br />
Panzano. The itinerary unwinds on secondary asphalt and on dirt roads, it is wellmarked<br />
and does not present any problems of orientation.<br />
There are no particular problems with finding water or other refreshments, unlike<br />
along the two alternative routes. The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent<br />
changes in elevation and steep climbs. The scenery is exceptionally beautiful<br />
due to historico-cultural elements typical of Tuscan agriculture.<br />
Note: The course requires good physical conditioning because of the many climbs.<br />
Almost 45% of the route can be covered using racing bikes while the remaining<br />
55% has gravel and beaten earth road beds and are suitable for mountain or citybikes<br />
with sturdy tires. The final stretch from Fonterutoli to Casalino is characterized<br />
by the presence of hawthorn with the consequent high risk of punctures.
Sanese Road and Romana Road<br />
The road in the first part of the itinerary (from Florence to the valley<br />
floor of the Pesa), followed the route of another main road in<br />
the Florentine countryside, that of the Strada Regia Romana, as it<br />
came to be known. It joined the Via Francigena, in the middle of<br />
the Val d’Elsa at Poggibonsi, and then continued with a slightly<br />
longer route, towards Siena.<br />
Both routes played an increasingly important role in the system<br />
of pilgrimage roads when the Via Francigena was “abducted” by<br />
Florence in the 13 th century as, with the development of a trans-<br />
Apennine crossing for Bologna, pilgrims to Rome began to favor<br />
the crossing points in the Mugello instead of the Cisa Pass, making<br />
Florence a stopping point on the road to Rome.<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
Until at least the end of the 12 th century, the two routes (the<br />
Sanese Road and the Romana Road), served to connect Florence<br />
with the southern section of the Via Francigena in Tuscany. In this<br />
guide, we have favored the “Via Sanese” because it allows us to<br />
recommend walking itineraries which sometimes follow exactly<br />
the ancient road that has survived 18 th - and 19 th -century modernization.<br />
In fact, the former Romana road, now State Road 2, is<br />
less suited to our idea of creating an alternative route, because of<br />
the intense traffic that characterizes some sections, especially in<br />
the larger towns (Tavarnelle, Barberino, Poggibonsi, and Staggia)<br />
located along the way.<br />
46<br />
Along the Via Sanese after Fonterutoli<br />
www.vieromee.it
The Ancient Way<br />
In the Middle Ages, the common course of the two roads started<br />
at Porta San Pietro Gattolino (now Porta Romana), climbing the<br />
hill of San Gaggio where once stood the Hospice of San Giuliano<br />
a Colombaia, founded in 1363 near the ancient “Fonte<br />
di Colombaia”. The route then headed towards Galluzzo where<br />
there was another hospice, Santa Maria di Malavolta, following<br />
though a different route than that of state road 2, (today the<br />
Via del Podestà), on which the hospice of Santa Lucia a Massapagana<br />
once stood.<br />
The road then proceeded towards Tavarnuzze whose name carries<br />
on the memory of the inn for travelers once found there.<br />
Soon after, it crossed the Greve River at the foot of Castle of<br />
Montebuoni to climb again to San Casciano. Then it descended<br />
into the Val di Pesa where in Ponte Nuovo it split into two routes:<br />
the Sanese road, that crossed the Pesa at Sambuca, reached the<br />
watershed line between the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa, and arrived<br />
in Siena from a path along the ridge, and the Via Romana<br />
that went up the hills that divide the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa<br />
and it then ran along the bottom of the Valdelsa and of its tributary<br />
Staggia, and also reached Siena after having joined the Via<br />
Francigena at Poggibonsi.<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of San Donato in Poggio<br />
47
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 1:<br />
PORTA SAN MINIATO (FLORENCE)<br />
SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 1<br />
Poggio<br />
Imperiale<br />
La Fonte<br />
Galluzzo<br />
Riccio<br />
Botta<br />
Pozzolatico<br />
Colleramole<br />
Tavarnuzze<br />
Riboia<br />
Pescina<br />
Meccoli<br />
48<br />
Sant’Andrea<br />
in Percussina<br />
LEG 1 to<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
see page 54<br />
Bagnolo<br />
Impruneta<br />
Farmhouse in the Val di Pesa
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 440<br />
Distance: km 15.6<br />
Travel time: 5h05’<br />
This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads. There are quite challenging<br />
climbs. There are no problems or possible difficulties in identifying the route.<br />
The leg has innumerable panoramic vantage points.<br />
Note: This leg requires being in good physical condition. There are many<br />
fountains and refreshments available in the towns and villages along the route.<br />
At the end of this leg in S. Andrea in Percussina, you can proceed to S. Casciano<br />
V. Pesa (3.5 km), which offers a greater number of accommodation facilities.<br />
Transport:<br />
Florence<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
To be seen:<br />
Church of San Felice a Ema<br />
Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />
Basilica di S. Maria dell’Impruneta (5 km from Tavarnuzze)<br />
The Machiavelli House – Sant’Andrea in Percussina – San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />
49<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Leg 2<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Leg 3<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Leg 4<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Leg 5<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Siena
DEVOTION<br />
The Miraculous Image of Impruneta<br />
Beyond the legends that flourished around its recovery, it is certain<br />
that the attraction of the miraculous image of the Virgin,<br />
kept in the parish church of Impruneta, quickly spread from the<br />
countryside to the city, instilling in Florentines a special devotion<br />
to the sacred image. Such that, as Repetti wrote (in Dizionario<br />
geografico fisico storico della Toscana 1832-43, vol. II, p. 574),<br />
“... oftentimes the Florentine government in cases of war or misfortunes<br />
like the plague, a long drought or persistent rains, had<br />
recourse to the miraculous image of Our Lady of Impruneta,<br />
whose venerable tabernacle, with a grand escort, a great multitude,<br />
and extreme devotion was brought in a procession to<br />
Florence”.<br />
The importance of the ancient parish church also grew, and it<br />
was renovated and expanded several times beginning in the 15 th<br />
century, until it assumed its current aspect as a large sanctuarybasilica,<br />
complete with a large colonnade in front so as to receive<br />
the ever increasing number of pilgrims who flocked there.<br />
As the fame of this sacred image grew, so did the wealth of the<br />
Impruneta parish church, that was enriched with buildings, rooms<br />
and works of art. (Many of the latter are now kept in the Museum<br />
of the Treasure of Santa Maria of Impruneta).<br />
Confirming the constant flow of pilgrims who went to the basilica,<br />
was the establishment of a preceptory of Jerusalem (the<br />
so-called Commenda) whose task was to give hospitality to those<br />
who came on pilgrimage to Impruneta, sometimes from places<br />
quite far away.<br />
50<br />
The Madonna of Impruneta
To avoid the usual problems of traffic, we suggest starting our<br />
itinerary from the San Miniato city gate - near the Villa Bardini<br />
and reachable from the Via Belvedere - flanked by a remaining<br />
section of the 14 th -century walls. So, after covering a short<br />
stretch of Via del Monte alle Croci, we continue along the picturesque<br />
footpath up Via dell’Erta Canina, an old, stone-paved<br />
road that slopes sharply (hence its name). Moreover, this road<br />
was still used in the 19 th century to go to Siena and Rome, as<br />
evidenced by the simple lines of verse engraved at the base of<br />
a street tabernacle near the end of our steep climb, which invoke<br />
divine protection for travelers in addition to indicating the<br />
distance traveled from Florence (a quarter-mile) and urging that<br />
the horses be rested.<br />
Having turned into the modern Viale Galileo and traveled a small<br />
distance, our route continues along characteristic streets sided<br />
by high walls with traces of antique graffiti; we pass by Via della<br />
Torre del Gallo, Via del Pian dei Giullari, Via Guglielmo Righini<br />
and Via Suor Maria Celeste. Walking behind the Villa Poggio<br />
Imperiale in a countryside dotted with villas and farmhouses –<br />
the landscape typical of the hills of Florence – we come to Via<br />
Gherardo Silvani, at the beginning of which we find the beautiful<br />
Romanesque Church of San Felice a Ema, completely<br />
renovated in the 18 th century.<br />
Then, taking the Via Vecchia di Pozzolatico, we arrive in the<br />
small village of Pozzolatico, whose church, dedicated to Saint<br />
Stephen, has partially retained its original Romanesque character,<br />
which is especially evident in the massive bell tower. Here,<br />
the suggested itinerary includes our first detour to visit a minor<br />
place of pilgrimage yet one of considerable local importance,<br />
especially in Florence. In fact, we find in Pozzolatico one of the<br />
Florentine valley paths that climb the slopes of the Impruneta hill<br />
on which stands the Sanctuary-Basilica of Santa Maria, with<br />
its miraculous image of the Madonna.<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1<br />
51<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
4.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Church of San Felice a Ema<br />
2.1 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />
2.4 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose<br />
2.8 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Poggio di Montebuoni<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
www.vieromee.it
Returning to Pozzolatico to resume our journey, we proceed towards<br />
the Romanesque church of San Lorenzo alle Rose, using<br />
a much less trafficked side street. Here, we can still admire<br />
the landscape of the hills surrounding Florence which have been<br />
shaped by the work of man. Then we begin to descend towards<br />
the village of Tavarnuzze where we intersect state road 2. Rather<br />
than follow the Greve River, like the state road, we suggest following<br />
the path of the medieval road that went up the steep<br />
Montebuoni Hill, where the Buondelmonte castle once stood<br />
and where there was also a hospice (the Hospitale de Montebuoni),<br />
run by the Vallombrosans from the Montescalari Abbey,<br />
which has been documented as early as 1095. Then, we walk<br />
downhill on a steep footpath until we reach state road 2, at Ponte<br />
degli Scopeti, an ancient crossing point over the Greve River.<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1<br />
From here onwards, our route retraces a good part of the medieval<br />
road to Rome and to Siena since, past Ponte degli Scopeti, we begin<br />
the road that goes to San Casciano, passing through the village<br />
of Sant’Andrea in Percussina, famous for having been the buen<br />
retiro of Niccolò Machiavelli when he retired to the villa after having<br />
been removed from the office of chancellor of the Republic.<br />
The hills of the Val di Pesa<br />
52<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
4.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Church of San Felice a Ema<br />
2.1 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />
2.4 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose<br />
2.8 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Poggio di Montebuoni<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
Step by step<br />
This first part of the route is thus described in the Book of<br />
Memories of the Florentine Company of the Holy Sacrament<br />
that went on pilgrimage to Rome in the Holy Year of 1575:<br />
“…we went towards the Gate (San Pietro Gattolini) always a<br />
great number as far as the Gate and San Gaggio inside and<br />
along the streets. As we were still arriving near the gate we<br />
met a company near the gate that accompanied us lovingly<br />
as far as San Gaggio and then we went on our Holy <strong>Pilgrim</strong>age<br />
cheerfully with God’s name and we came to the Church<br />
of Santo Andrea above mentioned, at midday we were invited<br />
with greatest charity to refresh ourselves and sit at a table with<br />
4 priests always speaking of spiritual things and then we left,<br />
singing ever more psalms”.<br />
Farm road near San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />
53
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 2:<br />
SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA<br />
MONTEFIRIDOLFI<br />
Sant’Andrea<br />
in Percussina<br />
Continuing of LEG 1<br />
see page 48<br />
Falciani<br />
Montecapri<br />
Le Querce<br />
La Bruscola<br />
Molinaccio<br />
San Casciano<br />
Crespeccioli<br />
Canciulle<br />
Calzaiolo<br />
Bibbione Castle<br />
Mocale<br />
54<br />
Bargino<br />
Loggetta<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
The Parish Church of Santa Cecilia a Decimo
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 210<br />
Distance: km 14<br />
Travel time: 3h55’<br />
This leg is mainly on secondary asphalt roads, with a stretch of dirt road between<br />
San Casciano and Calzaiolo. There are steep climbs. There are no problems<br />
with orientation or unclear identification of the route.<br />
Many panoramic points over the Chianti hills are found along this leg.<br />
Note: The length of this leg is limited with little elevation gain and does not<br />
require specific physical training. There is a tough, approximately 1-km climb<br />
after Calzaiolo. Water is available in the villages and towns.<br />
Transport:<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
To be seen:<br />
Museo d’Arte Sacra – San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />
Montefiridolfi Castle<br />
55<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Leg 2<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Leg 3<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Leg 4<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Leg 5<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Siena
HOSPITALITY<br />
The Inns of the Machiavelli Family<br />
An important place-name, Spedaletto derives its name from the<br />
existence of a hospice known to have been located here beginning<br />
in the 14 th century, whose patrons were the Machiavelli family. In<br />
addition to this charitable structure for poor travelers and pilgrims,<br />
the Machiavelli family ran a series of inns on the stretch of road<br />
between Florence and San Casciano. In fact, the 1427 Florentine<br />
Cadastral records show that a number of properties belonged to<br />
various branches of the family: one inn just outside the city walls<br />
at Porta San Pietro Gattolino; another in Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
(standing beside the 13 th -century manor house of the Florentine<br />
Secretary, called, not surprisingly, the Albergaccio), and a third was<br />
located in castro Sancti Chasciani.<br />
The Albergaccio, the Machiavelli House, Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
56
Proceeding past Sant’Andrea in Percussina towards San Casciano,<br />
we come across Spedaletto, a typical elongated village that<br />
lines the sides of the road.<br />
Built at an intersection with a cross road connecting the Val di<br />
Pesa and the Val di Greve, the origins of San Casciano are reflected<br />
in the oldest part of the town, that lies along two main<br />
streets that intersect, forming an X. Because of its importance as<br />
a stopping point, the town was home not only to inns but also<br />
to many hospices between the late 13 th and the early 14 th centuries,<br />
including: the Hospice of Santa Cristina, that of San Lorenzo,<br />
a Hospitale domine Mate and one kept by the Dominicans.<br />
Along a separate route that runs parallel to state road 2 and<br />
keeping to its left, our itinerary continues down into the Pesa<br />
River valley floor, which is reached at Calzaiolo. The town owes<br />
its name to the fact that Giovanni, son of Pietro, known as Calzaiolo,<br />
together with his wife Carina had founded a hospice here<br />
in 1139, whose structures – despite numerous renovations – are<br />
still preserved, together with the church annexed to it.<br />
We continue for just over a kilometer along the state road following<br />
the Pesa River course until we reach Monte di Sassi. We<br />
turn left here to go up to Bibbione Castle, then continue on to<br />
Villa La Loggia and Montefiridolfi.<br />
Bibbione Castle<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 2<br />
57<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />
0.7 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Spedaletto<br />
2.9 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
San Casciano<br />
4 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Calzaiolo<br />
2.6 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Bibbione Castle<br />
3.8 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
www.vieromee.it
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 3:<br />
MONTEFIRIDOLFI<br />
SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />
Startin point<br />
of LEG 2<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Vignano<br />
Acquaviva<br />
Monte Lodoli<br />
Fabbrio<br />
Badia a Passignano<br />
Sambuca<br />
Il Poggiolino<br />
Casetto<br />
San Giustino<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
58<br />
LEG 2 to<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
see page 64<br />
Fermignano<br />
San Donato<br />
in Poggio<br />
The Sambuca Bridge (Mappe di Popoli e Strade dei Capitani di Parte Guelfa, 1585)
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Badia a Passignano, Sambuca<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 260<br />
Distance: km 15.5<br />
Travel time: 4h45’<br />
The leg covers both asphalt side roads and dirt roads. No problems with orientation<br />
or possible unclear identification of the route, even when on dirt roads. The climbs<br />
are not particularly demanding.<br />
The itinerary includes panoramic views of the Chianti hills.<br />
Note: This leg covers a limited distance with reasonable elevation gain. There is a<br />
3-km stretch of dirt road between Santa Maria a Macerata and Badia a Passignano.<br />
From Badia a Passignano, you can take an alternative route through Rignana and<br />
Fornace that leads to S. Donato in Poggio. Instead, care must be taken on the main<br />
itinerary because of the motor traffic on a 4-km stretch along the Via Chiantigiana<br />
between Sambuca and Castellina in Chianti.<br />
Water is available in the villages and towns.<br />
Transport:<br />
Monteridolfi<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
To be seen:<br />
Abbey of Passignano<br />
Bridge of Romagliano in Sambuca Val di Pesa<br />
Village of San Donato in Poggio<br />
Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio<br />
59<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Leg 2<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Leg 3<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Leg 4<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Leg 5<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Siena
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 3<br />
After Monteridolfi, we pass Santa Maria Macerata until we<br />
reach the Abbey of Passignano, another pilgrimage destination<br />
as it holds the body of Saint John Gualbert, the founder of<br />
the Vallombrosan order.<br />
From the Abbey of Passignano, we can go directly to San Donato<br />
in Poggio on a hilly route that passes mainly through wooded<br />
areas. Heading instead towards the valley floor, where the medieval<br />
Via Sanese passed, we reach Sambuca, a village built near<br />
the ancient Bridge of Ramagliano, documented since the mid-12 th<br />
century. As usually happened at river crossings, there were inns and<br />
hostels as well as charitable institutions to be found. In particular,<br />
regarding to the latter, there had been a hospice run since 1123<br />
by the monks from the Abbey of Passignano, which seems to have<br />
been near the Bridge of Ramagliano. There was then a Hospice of<br />
San Lazzaro, documented since the end of the 13 th century, and the<br />
Hospice of San Nicola, commonly known as il Chiesino.<br />
Passing through all the old town of Sambuca, whose urban layout<br />
developed along the road where it rose, we start to climb a very<br />
steep slope to reach the ridge of hills separating the Valdelsa and<br />
the Val di Pesa. The route on which we walk is a direct successor<br />
to the ancient Via Sanese, and soon brings us to San Donato in<br />
Poggio, passing before the homonymous parish church, located<br />
just outside the ancient walls of the castle that has retained substantially<br />
intact its medieval urban layout.<br />
Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio<br />
60<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
6.6 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Abbey of Passignano<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Sambuca<br />
4.6 km<br />
Time:1h35’<br />
San Donato<br />
in Poggio
LAND OF SAINTS<br />
The Relics of Saint John Gualbert in Passignano<br />
Probably founded by the Lombards, the Benedictine Abbey of San<br />
Michele Arcangelo a Passignano was offered around the mid-11 th<br />
century by the lords who had its patronage to Saint John Gualbert<br />
who had founded some years earlier in Vallombrosa a new monastic<br />
congregation actively engaged in reforming the Church. The<br />
saint restored the monastery and established a small community<br />
there, which was led by his disciple Leto. And it was in Passignano<br />
itself that in 1073 the saint ended his earthly days; therefore the<br />
monastery, custodian of the remains of the founder of the Vallombrosan<br />
congregation, came to occupy a prestigious position within<br />
the order itself, and became a pilgrimage destination, also benefiting<br />
from its proximity to the Via Sanese, one of the pilgrims’ routes<br />
to Rome.<br />
Thanks to numerous donations obtained as a result of the monks’<br />
fervor, the Abbey of Passignano came to possess many landed<br />
properties. The monastery grew to the current majestic complex<br />
with buildings from various eras (including a hospice for<br />
pilgrims and travelers), encircled within 14 th -century walls. The<br />
Romanesque-style church was enlarged and modernized in the<br />
late Renaissance: it contains the precious reliquary-bust of Saint<br />
John Gualbert, the work of 15 th -century Florentine goldsmiths; it<br />
is made of embossed and chiseled silver with a base consisting of<br />
20 small cuspated aedicules, decorated with scenes in fine enamel<br />
that illustrate the saint’s miracles and stories from his life.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
San Donato in Poggio and the Parish Church<br />
The church has its original architectural features, and is indeed<br />
one of the most artistically perfect Romanesque buildings in the<br />
Florentine countryside because of the elegant facing of its walls<br />
with courses of white limestone, recalling the marmoreal brilliance<br />
of the main Romanesque churches in Florence.<br />
San Donato was one of the main stopping points along the Via<br />
Sanese: in “Sainct Donast est le commencement de la Seigneurie<br />
des Florentins”, wrote an anonymous Frenchman on his way<br />
to Rome in 1480, one of the many pilgrims who stopped there.<br />
Inside the castle, there is evidence that a hospice dedicated to<br />
Saint Luke once existed, as well as a Hospitale Communis, which<br />
housed the poor of Christ and the hospitalers.<br />
61
Starting point of LEG 3<br />
Alternative Route<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
Leg 3, Alternative Route:<br />
BADIA A PASSIGNANO<br />
SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Vignano<br />
Monte Lodoli<br />
Acquaviva<br />
Fabbrio<br />
Badia a Passignano<br />
Sambuca<br />
MAIN<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Il Poggiolino<br />
Casetto<br />
San Giustino<br />
Rignana<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
Fermignano<br />
Fornace<br />
62<br />
San Donato<br />
in Poggio<br />
Pietracupa<br />
LEG 2/3, Alternative route to<br />
Pieve a Panzano<br />
see page 68<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Abbey of Passignano
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 330<br />
Distance: km 8,9<br />
Travel time: 3h<br />
The alternative route for leg 3 starts in Badia a Passignano after traveling<br />
6.6 km from Montefiridolfi. From the Abbey, the alternative route joins the<br />
road for Poggio al Vento, which we follow for about 2 km. In this stretch,<br />
we find a steep climb that goes from Borro di Rimaggio to the fork for<br />
Casa Poggio al Vento. After passing the crossroads, we continue on the<br />
left for about 800 meters to the small bridge over the Fosso Casasilia. We<br />
continue along the dirt road that follows the crest of the hills as far as Santa<br />
Maria a Rignana, and then, past Rignana, we come to another crossroads<br />
after about 1 km. We turn right and descend to the Pesa River as far<br />
as the little bridge in Fornace. This is the beginning of a demanding, uphill<br />
climb, more than 2 km long, that brings us to Pietracupa. We then pass<br />
near the ruins of the village of Fornace until reaching the edge of a wood.<br />
Keeping to the left on the uphill dirt road, we pass through the villages of<br />
Casalino and Podere Ripoli. Here we find a dirt road on the right that leads<br />
us to Montecchio farm and the entrance to La Papessa holiday farm. From<br />
there, we reach an asphalt road that we follow for a few hundred metres<br />
as far as the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pietracupa.<br />
The route has many panoramic viewpoints over the Val di Pesa. This leg<br />
is entirely on forest roads with no orientation problems. The climbs are of<br />
medium difficulty.<br />
63<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Abbey of Passignano<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
6,6 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
8,9 km<br />
Time: 3h
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 4:<br />
SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />
CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI<br />
San Donato<br />
in Poggio<br />
Pietracupa<br />
Continuing of LEG 2<br />
see page 58<br />
Il Leccio<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
Caselline<br />
San Silvestro<br />
Santa Maria Grignano<br />
La Valle<br />
San Damè<br />
Protine<br />
Faggeto<br />
Pietrafitta<br />
Gualdolino<br />
Sassocupo<br />
Monastero di Sotto<br />
Cavallari<br />
Sommavilla<br />
Cellole<br />
64<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto.<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 615<br />
Distance: km 17.2<br />
Travel time: 5h55’<br />
After the initial 2.5 km along an asphalt road, the route continues on dirt roads<br />
and trails. There are many forks along these forest roads, so special attention<br />
must be paid to the signs. The route then unwinds almost exclusively in forests<br />
where oak species prevail. There are steep climbs, of which the most difficult is<br />
definitely the one that goes from Cerchiaio to Pietrafitta.<br />
Note: This leg requires good physical training. Water is available only in the<br />
villages and towns.<br />
Transport:<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
To be seen:<br />
Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose<br />
Village and fortress of Castellina in Chianti<br />
Archeological Museum of the Sienese Chianti – Castellina in Chianti<br />
65<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Leg 2<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Leg 3<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Leg 4<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Leg 5<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Siena
66<br />
Fortress of Castellina
From San Donato in Poggio, our itinerary, that retraces the ancient<br />
Via Sanese continues along the panoramic Provincial Road<br />
76 that offers sweeping views over both the Val di Pesa and Val<br />
d’Elsa. Just outside the castle, at the fork with the road to Panzano,<br />
is the Oratory of the Madonna of Pietracupa, a lesser<br />
pilgrimage destination but of considerable local importance beginning<br />
at the end of the 16 th century.<br />
Shortly after, in San Giorgio alle Rose, there is a Romanesque<br />
church with a rectangular hall but no apse that overlooks the<br />
road: it is the ancient Hospice of San Giorgio all’Eroso, documented<br />
as early as the 12 th century. The farmhouse across the<br />
road incorporates the remains of a tavern, that was noted in<br />
the 16 th -century Mappe di Popoli e Strade of the Capitani di<br />
Parte Guelfa.<br />
Just beyond the Hospice of San Giorgio, we leave the provincial<br />
road behind and take the local road to the left that goes down<br />
into the Val di Pesa, passing by the San Silvestro and Protine<br />
farmhouses. To the side of the latter is a small single-nave Romanesque<br />
church with an apse whose original characteristics are<br />
practically intact. We continue to the Cerchiaia mill and then<br />
proceed towards Pietrafitta on a steeply sloping dirt road that<br />
intersects the Chianti state road. We continue on a dirt road as<br />
far as Pietrafitta, an ancient Chianti castle, of which some structures<br />
still remain in addition to the parish church, renovated in the<br />
19 th century. We keep on as far as the Casanuova farmhouse, then<br />
cross a wooded area to head towards the Monastero di Sotto,<br />
the former residence of the Vallombrosan monks, now used as a<br />
holiday farm. From here, we continue across dirt roads up to San<br />
Martino and then to Castellina after only five hundred meters.<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4<br />
Castellina in Chianti, an ancient outpost of the Florentine Republic,<br />
retains the mighty defensive works built at the beginning<br />
of the 15 th century. An important stopping point along the<br />
way, Castellina had a Hospitale pauperum dedicated to Saint<br />
Michael and offered various forms of commercial hospitality<br />
(inns, hostels).<br />
67<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
2.4 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Ancient Hospice<br />
of San Giorgio all’Eroso<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
San Silvestro<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
Protine<br />
2.7 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Pietrafitta<br />
3.2 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Monastero di Sotto<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
www.vieromee.it
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE:<br />
SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />
PIETRAFITTA<br />
Starting point of LEG 2/3, Alternative route B<br />
Continuing of LEG 2/3, Alternative route A<br />
San Donato<br />
in Poggio<br />
see page 62<br />
Sicelle<br />
Pietracupa<br />
Il Leccio<br />
Sant’Eufrosino<br />
Lucarelli<br />
Panzano<br />
Pieve a Panzano<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
Caselline<br />
MAIN<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Santa Maria Grignano<br />
La Valle<br />
San Damè<br />
Pietrafitta<br />
Faggeto<br />
Gualdolino<br />
68<br />
Sassocupo<br />
Monastero di Sotto<br />
Cellole<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Cavallari<br />
Sommavilla<br />
LEG 2/3, Alternative route B to<br />
Siena<br />
see page 62<br />
Landscape along the itinerary
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 580<br />
Distance: km 14.5<br />
Travel time: 5h10’<br />
This leg is 50% on asphalt roads and 50% on gravel and grass roads. Again,<br />
in this case, there are no orientation problems or difficulties in identifying the<br />
route. This is a very demanding leg that requires proper physical training. There<br />
is a variety of sometimes very steep climbs, with a total elevation gain of 710 m.<br />
On top of that, it is over 19 km long.<br />
Transport:<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
To be seen:<br />
Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino<br />
Parish Church of San Leolino – Panzano<br />
Note: Those who are doing the bike itinerary and are coming from Montefiridolfi,<br />
will stop in Panzano, then onward to Siena with a very challenging<br />
new leg.<br />
69<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Pietrafitta<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
14,5 km<br />
Time: 5h10’<br />
5 km<br />
Time: 1h35’
DEVOTION<br />
Pietracupa and the Miraculous Image of the Madonna<br />
Along the Via Sanese there was a road tabernacle dedicated to<br />
the Virgin, with the frescoed image painted there, set on a large<br />
limestone block. At the end of the 16 th century, the story spread<br />
that this image performed miracles. The local people began to<br />
make pilgrimages there and, as a result, bequests and donations<br />
grew to the point that the construction of a true sanctuary was<br />
carried out to house the tabernacle and the fresco. In 1596, the<br />
oldest part of the building was built: a church hall whose architectural<br />
features reflected the classical canons of 16 th -century Mannerism.<br />
During the 17 th century, with the further growth in popular<br />
devotion and, consequently, in pilgrimages, the church was<br />
expanded with the addition of three chapels in the presbytery.<br />
At the same time, to meet the needs of the ever more numerous<br />
lay companies that went there, a large arcade that surrounds the<br />
building on three sides was built, giving it the typical aspect of<br />
a church that was a pilgrimage destination. (L. BIADI, Memorie<br />
storiche del piviere di San Pietro in Bossolo, Florence 1848).<br />
Oratory of the Madonna of Pietracupa<br />
70
The road that at the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pietracupa<br />
breaks off from the Via Sanese winds through the hills that<br />
slope toward the bottom of the Val di Pesa along a path that<br />
runs across the whole valley in the direction of Panzano Castle,<br />
with another nearby holy place, a pilgrimage destination<br />
– also in this case – of mostly local importance, the Sanctuary<br />
of Sant’Eufrosino. This alternative route, though longer, also<br />
takes us to Castellina in Chianti and then rejoins the Via Sanese.<br />
Along the way we find the turreted Valle manor house, then the<br />
small village of Sicelle, with its parish church rebuilt consistent<br />
with the original style in the early 20 th century. Upon reaching<br />
the Castagnoli farmhouse, we turn left to cross the Pesa River<br />
and then climb up to the Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino.<br />
Interior of the Parish Church of San Leolino<br />
71<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE<br />
Leaving Sant’Eufrosino, we go on in the direction of the Parish<br />
Church of San Leolino a Panzano, passing the Via di Mezzo<br />
farmhouse and reaching the state road 222 in Ferruzzi where<br />
the short road that leads to the church branches off.<br />
Recorded as a rural church as early as the 10 th century, San Leolino<br />
has preserved its original Romanesque structures inside despite<br />
the façade having been renovated in the 16 th century. It has<br />
three aisles that are separated by a series of arches on pillars. It<br />
contains ancient and precious artworks, including a panel painting<br />
attributed to Meliore, depicting the Madonna Enthroned<br />
with Saints Peter and Paul, a polyptych by Mariotto di Nardo<br />
also portraying the Madonna and Saints, a late 14 th century triptych<br />
of the Sienese school, and a 15 th -century Florentine school<br />
cuspated panel painting.<br />
The ancient Chianti dirt road runs behind the church. It passes<br />
the Le Masse and Castagnoli farmhouses and leads to the small<br />
hamlet of Lucarelli, on state road 222. Here we cross the Pesa<br />
River again and start climbing anew the slopes of the hills below<br />
Castellina. We continue past the Scovo and Casuccia farmhouses<br />
and arrive in Pietrafitta.<br />
Stone-paved road along the route<br />
72<br />
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DEVOTION<br />
The Water of Saint Eufrosino<br />
What distinguishes the church of Sant’Eufrosino from the other<br />
minor loca sacra (holy places) on our routes is its considerable antiquity.<br />
The cult of Saint Eufrosino, in fact, dates back to the early<br />
Middle Ages and most likely relates to the effort to evangelize the<br />
Lombard Arians on the part of eastern missionaries sent to Tuscia<br />
from Rome beginning in the 620s. As early as about the 8 th century,<br />
an oratory was erected on the site where one of them, known<br />
for his charity, was buried, as confirmed by the remains of a richly<br />
carved chancel screen recently brought to light during church<br />
restoration work. Today the church displays the simple and austere<br />
forms resulting from a radical, 15 th -century reconstruction,<br />
with a wide and uncluttered nave and a small external arcade<br />
for pilgrims. The pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino<br />
was largely because of a belief in the saint’s thaumaturgic virtues<br />
associated with the miraculous water from the little well placed<br />
inside a small chapel located next to the church, and from a small<br />
fountain inside a nearby aedicule.<br />
When ill, people from the surrounding areas came to bathe or<br />
dip their limbs in the water of Saint Eufrosino. The water was also<br />
thought to have galactophorus qualities if ingested, thus presenting<br />
a solution to one of the most distressing problems of peasant<br />
societies of the past (R. STOPANI, Un Santuario altomedievale nel<br />
Chianti. L’oratorio di Sant’Eufrosino a Panzano, Centro di Studi<br />
Chiantigiani “Clante”, Florence 1997).<br />
Small fountain of Sant’Eufrosino<br />
73
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />
LEG 5:<br />
CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI<br />
UOPINI (SIENA)<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Starting point of<br />
LEG 3<br />
Il Mandorlo<br />
Continuing of LEG 2/3,<br />
Alternative route B<br />
see page 68<br />
Cagnano di Sopra<br />
Il Trebbio<br />
Tramonti<br />
Fonterutoli<br />
Caggio<br />
Bellosguardo<br />
Pietralta<br />
Gallozzole<br />
Querciagrossa<br />
Gaggiola<br />
Santa Chiara<br />
Ripa Poggiarello<br />
Basciano<br />
(Ripa Poggiarello 1 km)<br />
74<br />
Santa Fortunata<br />
Uopini<br />
Tognazza<br />
Acquaviva<br />
Piazza Duomo<br />
(Siena)<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w along the route
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km)<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 320<br />
Distance: km 21<br />
Travel time: 6h 05’<br />
This leg takes place almost exclusively on gravel roads and on trails. The route<br />
is readily identifiable and there are no difficulties or problems of orientation.<br />
This leg is particularly demanding for the distance to be covered. It spreads<br />
over a hilly environment of great beauty and fascination with valleys and hills<br />
characterized by alternating cultivated fields and hardwood groves. Some of the<br />
land crossed belongs to farmers who also raise Cinta Senese pigs.<br />
Note: For hikers, Uopini is considered the end of this leg. From here public<br />
transport can be used to reach the town of Siena (lines 036, 527, 528, 573,<br />
596, or visit website http://www.sienamobilita.it/).<br />
Transport:<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Fonterutoli<br />
Siena<br />
75<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Leg 2<br />
S. Andrea in Percussina<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Leg 3<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Leg 4<br />
S. Donato in Poggio<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Leg 5<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Siena
Beyond Castellina, state road 222 basically follows the route of<br />
the ancient Via Sanese as far as Siena.<br />
Long stretches of the medieval route – now a country road – have<br />
survived and run parallel to the state road. Useful as an alternative<br />
route, it enables going to all the many places that were once<br />
stopping points along the road, as well as reaching Siena.<br />
Then we encounter the village of Fonterutoli where the tavern<br />
Osteria di Fonte Rutili is shown on the 16 th century maps of the<br />
Capitani di Parte Guelfa, depicting also the spring that gave the<br />
village its name.<br />
2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 5<br />
Then we encounter the village of Frassi, where now is a holiday<br />
farm, not on the state road, and then on to Quercegrossa, a Sienese<br />
castle that housed the Hospice of San Jacopo recorded in the 1349<br />
Sienese Statutes.<br />
Using back roads that run parallel with the state road, we pass the<br />
farmhouses of Sornanino, Sornano and Casalino and we reach the<br />
Molino di Quercegrossa, the town that grew on the site of the<br />
Sienese castle.<br />
At Molino di Quercegrossa, we cross the state road and proceed<br />
towards Siena along dirt roads, past the Molino dello Staggia,<br />
Basciano and Palazzetto. We cross under the Florence-Siena<br />
highway and the railway and come to Molinuzzo. Siena is now<br />
near. Our itinerary comes across a final stopping point before<br />
reaching the city: the small village of Uopini, with its small church<br />
that has preserved intact its original Romanesque features. One<br />
could count on the assistance given in Uopini at the hospice there,<br />
which offered eight places to pilgrims.<br />
76<br />
From here, the bus takes us up to the majestic outer gate of<br />
Camollia where we enter Siena through the 14 th -century walls.<br />
Following Via di Camollia, Via dei Montanini, Banchi di Sopra<br />
and Via di Città, we find to the right Via del Capitano that leads<br />
us into the Piazza del Duomo. Before the old building of the<br />
hospice of Santa Maria della Scala in front of the cathedral<br />
our journey ends.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
1.7 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Godenano<br />
Fonterutoli<br />
5.4 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Casalino<br />
5 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
La Staggia<br />
4.5 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Basciano<br />
Uopini<br />
3 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)
Torre del Mangia, Piazza del Campo in Siena<br />
77
ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />
78<br />
Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano<br />
Art B&B<br />
Via della Volta, 6<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8290372<br />
Fax: 055 8294149<br />
info@bbart.eu<br />
www.bbart.eu<br />
Di Chiara Michela Affittacamere<br />
Via Volterrana, 287<br />
Chiesanuova<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 827209<br />
La Fonte del Machiavelli B&B<br />
Via Scopeti, 54<br />
Sant’ Andrea in Percussina<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8249598 - Fax: 055 8249598<br />
info@lafontedelmachiavelli.com<br />
www.lafontedelmachiavelli.com<br />
Massanera Agriturismo<br />
Via Faltignano, 76<br />
Chiesanuova<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8242360<br />
Fax: 055 8242441<br />
info@massanera.com<br />
www.massanera.com<br />
Parrocchia San Casciano<br />
Via Guarucci, 8<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 820218<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
Il Convento di Bini Cristina Affittacamere<br />
Via Collina, 11<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 0558244449<br />
Petigliolo Affittacamere<br />
Via Petigliolo, 19/a<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8244029<br />
Sant’Angello Affittacamere<br />
Via Collina, 56<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 333 8001684<br />
Villa S. Andrea Affittacamere<br />
Via di Fabbrica<br />
Montefiridolfi<br />
50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8249033<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Azienda Agricola Conio<br />
Via Sinigogola, 1<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8072055 - 055 8072822<br />
Fax: 055 8072822<br />
www.aziendaagricolaconio.it<br />
B&B Palazzo Malaspina<br />
Via del Giglio, 35<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8072946<br />
www.palazzomalaspina.it<br />
Fattoria la Ripa<br />
Strada Provinciale per Castellina, 27<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50021 Barberino Valdelsa<br />
Tel: 055 8072948<br />
laripa@laripa.it<br />
www.laripa.it<br />
Il Glicine Affittacamere<br />
Via de’ Baluardi, 5a<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8071604 - Fax: 055 8071604<br />
info@lifeinchianti.com<br />
La Papessa Affittacamere<br />
Via Montecchio, 4<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8072363<br />
Pietracupa Affittacamere<br />
Via Madonna di Pietracupa, 31<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Tel: 055 8072400 - Fax: 055 8072142<br />
info@locandapietracupa.com<br />
www.locandapietracupa.com<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Castello Fonterutoli B&B<br />
Via Ottone III, 5<br />
Loc. Fonterutoli<br />
53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />
Tel. 0577 741385<br />
Podere Monastero Affittacamere<br />
Monastero, 37<br />
53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />
Tel: 0577 740436<br />
Tatini Andrea Affittacamere<br />
San Martino, 28<br />
53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />
Tel: 0577 740534
Cell: 329 8113124<br />
info@casatatini.com<br />
www.casatatini.com<br />
Villa Cristina Affittacamere<br />
Via Fiorentina, 34<br />
53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />
Tel: 0577 741166 - Fax: 0577 742936<br />
info@villacristina.it<br />
www.villacristina.it<br />
Siena<br />
Accoglienza Santa Luisa<br />
Via San Girolamo, 8<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 284377<br />
Alma Domus Santuario Santa Caterina<br />
Via Camporegio, 31<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 44177 - Fax: 0577 47601<br />
Caritas Affittacamere<br />
Via della Diana, 4<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 280643<br />
caritas@carita-sfiera.org<br />
www.caritas-siena.org<br />
Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi<br />
P.za A. Manzoni, 8<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 222633<br />
Casa per ferie Istituto Maria de’ Gori<br />
Via dei Servi, 31<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 221076<br />
Fax: 0577 221298<br />
Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto<br />
Via del Lecceto, 6<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 349393<br />
Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio<br />
Via Fiorentina, 89<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 52212<br />
siena@ostellionline.org<br />
www.ostelloguidoriccio.com<br />
Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII<br />
Via Montarioso, 35<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 587011<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
Impruneta Associazione Pro Loco<br />
Piazza Garibaldi<br />
Tel. 055 2313729<br />
www.proimpruneta.rdt.it<br />
Comune di Impruneta (urp):<br />
Tel: 055 2036430 / 428<br />
UPT San Casciano<br />
Public library<br />
of San Casciano in Val di Pesa<br />
Via Roma, 37 - 50026 San Casciano<br />
in Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8256380<br />
Fax: 055 8229920<br />
www.comune.san-casciano-val-di-pesa.fi.it<br />
Pro Loco Tavarnelle in Val di Pesa<br />
Piazza Matteotti<br />
50020 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8077832<br />
Fax: 055 8077832<br />
www.prolocotavarnelle.it<br />
Tourist information Panzano in Chianti<br />
Via Le Ginestre, 9<br />
50020 Panzano in Chianti (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 0940024<br />
www.panzanoinchianti.com<br />
Pro Loco San Donato in Poggio<br />
Via del Giglio, 47<br />
50020 San Donato In Poggio,<br />
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />
Tel: 0558072338<br />
www.sandonatoinpoggio.it<br />
Pro Loco Radda in Chianti<br />
Piazza Castello, 2<br />
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 838003<br />
Fax: 0577 738062<br />
www.comune.radda-in-chianti.si.it<br />
Proloco Castellina in Chianti<br />
Via Ferruccio, 40<br />
53011 Castellina In Chianti (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 741392 - 0577 741393<br />
www.chiantistorico.com/it/contact/castellina.php<br />
Library of Castellina in Chianti<br />
Via Pietro Nenni, 26<br />
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 740201<br />
Fax: 0577 742355<br />
www.castellinainchianti.com<br />
APT Siena<br />
Piazza del Campo 56<br />
53100 Siena (Si)<br />
Tel: 0577 280551 - 0577 42209<br />
Fax: 0577 270676 - 0577 28104<br />
aptsiena@siena.turismo.toscana.it<br />
www.terresiena.it<br />
79
Tourist information office Siena<br />
Piazza Rosselli - 53100 Siena (SI)<br />
Tel. 0577 270600<br />
www.comune.siena.it<br />
Rental<br />
Alinari<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via Guelfa, 85r - 50129 - Florence<br />
Tel: 055 280500<br />
www.alinarirental.com<br />
Florence by bike<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via San Zanobi, 120/122r<br />
50129 - Florence<br />
Tel. e Fax: 055 488 992<br />
www.florencebybike.it<br />
Rent Way<br />
P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />
50122 - Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820<br />
www.rentway.it<br />
info@rentway.it<br />
Ciclosport di Porciatti<br />
Via Trento, 82<br />
53036 - Poggibonsi (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 938507<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte<br />
Feast of San Michele Arcangelo<br />
(last Sunday of September)<br />
Castellina in Chianti<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Fausto<br />
(third Sunday of September)<br />
Castelnuovo Berardenga<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Giusto<br />
and Clemente (5 June)<br />
Good Friday Procession, Stations of the<br />
Cross in costume (Easter)<br />
Greve in Chianti<br />
Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />
Greve in Chianti Loc. Panzano<br />
Festival of “Stagion Bona”,<br />
historical re-enactment (April)<br />
Feast of Sante Marie and fair<br />
(15 August)<br />
Impruneta<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Luca<br />
(18 October)<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint,<br />
Maria Vergine (8 September)<br />
Festa dei Rioni and Torneo del Barilotto<br />
(September)<br />
80<br />
Ciclofficina di Bettini<br />
Via Redipuglia, 17/19<br />
53036 - Poggibonsi (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 936881<br />
Furgoncin<br />
Via Cassia Nord<br />
53035 - Castellina Scalo, Monteriggioni (SI)<br />
Tel: 0577 305015<br />
Centro bici<br />
Viale Toselli, 110<br />
53100 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 282550<br />
DF Motor<br />
Via dei Gazzani, 16<br />
53100 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 288387<br />
DF Bike<br />
Via massetana romana, 54<br />
53100 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 271905<br />
Radda in Chianti<br />
Festa del Perdono<br />
(beginning of September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Niccolò<br />
(29 September)<br />
San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />
Festa della Battitura (28 June)<br />
Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Casciano<br />
(13 August)<br />
San Donato in Poggio<br />
Borgo incantato (end of June)<br />
Feast of San Donato (7 August)<br />
Corpus Domini Procession with flowers<br />
(14 June)<br />
Siena<br />
Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May)<br />
Palio della Madonna di Provenzano<br />
(2 July)<br />
Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August)<br />
Santa Lucia (13 December)<br />
Sant’Ansano (1 December)<br />
Events and Fairs<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />
Feast of Beato Davanzato<br />
(first Sunday in July)<br />
Feast of San Bartolomeo (24 August)<br />
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />
Pentecost Festival (May, June)<br />
Borgo Incantato (June)<br />
Festa della Battitura (July)<br />
Feast of Santa Lucia
3 rd ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA PISANA<br />
and the connection to the Francigena<br />
Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />
81<br />
The strata per quam itur Pisas represented a predominantly commercial<br />
artery for medieval Florence. Together with the Arno - at<br />
that time an inland waterway – it served to channel the flow of<br />
traffic from the larger towns in the lower Valdarno district, and<br />
that to the port of Pisa. Yet the road was also used by pilgrims<br />
going to Pisa – and later, to Leghorn – for embarkation to Santiago<br />
de Compostela, also because it could be used as a link<br />
to the Via Francigena, the quintessential via peregrinalis, whose<br />
route was intersected southwest of Empoli, near the confluence<br />
of the Elsa into the Arno River.
3 rd ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA PISANA<br />
and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
(Florence)<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
82<br />
THE ITINERARY<br />
350<br />
300<br />
250<br />
200<br />
150<br />
100<br />
50<br />
00<br />
Starting Point: Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />
End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
Elevation gain:<br />
Le Piagge Railway Station<br />
Renai Park<br />
Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
Church of Sant’Ippolito<br />
Il Torrino (landscape)<br />
Detour to Castle of Oliveto<br />
S. Martino Maiano, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />
Junction S. Martino Maiano, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />
Junction S. Martino, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />
Ancient village of Cerbaia<br />
Castle of the Chiocciola<br />
Castle of the Villa
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 135.9<br />
Distance (local itinerary): km 4.8<br />
Distance (alternative route): km 12.9<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa<br />
Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway<br />
Station, Renai Park, Signa<br />
Distance: km 15.5 - Page 88<br />
Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli<br />
Waypoints: Villa Caruso, Hermitage of Lecceto, Malmantile,<br />
Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana<br />
Distance: km 21.9 - Page 94<br />
Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino<br />
Waypoints: Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />
Distance: km 21 - Page 100<br />
Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo<br />
Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano<br />
Distance: km 15.1 - Page 106<br />
Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Castello di Oliveto<br />
Distance: km 4.8 - Page 110<br />
Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi<br />
Waypoints: Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bascinano,<br />
San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano<br />
Distance: km 20.9 - Page 112<br />
Legs 4 / 5, Alternative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi<br />
Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />
Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118<br />
Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni<br />
Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove<br />
Distance: km 21 - Page 122<br />
Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
Waypoints: Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola,<br />
Casalino, Le Querce<br />
Distance: km 20.5 - Page 126<br />
83<br />
After passing through Cascine Park in Florence, our route goes on along the<br />
shared-use path that leads to Renai Park in Signa. We continue along the hills<br />
in the western end of Chianti, staying on the right bank of the Elsa River. The<br />
landscape of inestimable beauty offers views over rural panoramas that are<br />
characterized by 19 th -century farms with vineyards, olive groves, woods, and<br />
cultivated fields.<br />
The tour unwinds on dirt and asphalt roads and alternates between tourist-style<br />
and hiking stretches. In rural areas, there may be orientation problems due to<br />
insufficient signage and place-name information. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the<br />
route runs parallel to the Via Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from<br />
Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, and Acquaviva.<br />
Note: The legs are easily practicable on foot or by bicycle but are demanding<br />
because of their length, the climbs and the few points with water and refreshments.<br />
Good physical training is required. The road bed is either asphalt (55%),<br />
or with gravel and grass (45%).
3 rd ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA PISANA<br />
and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />
Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />
Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
84<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Val d’Elsa countryside
BIKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 135.9<br />
Distance (alternative route): km 12.9<br />
Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station,<br />
Renai Park, Signa, Lastra a Signa, Villa Caruso<br />
Distance: km 21.1 - Page 88<br />
Leg 2: Hermitage of Lecceto – Castelfiorentino<br />
Waypoints: Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana, Empoli,<br />
Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />
Distance: km 37.3 - Page 94<br />
Leg 3: Castelfiorentino – Poggibonsi<br />
Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano, Certaldo, Le Case di Sciano,<br />
Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano, San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano,<br />
Sant’Appiano<br />
Distance: km 36 - Page 106<br />
Leg 3, Alterative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi<br />
Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />
Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118<br />
Leg 4: Poggibonsi – Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove,<br />
Monteriggioni, Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce<br />
Distance: km 41.5 - Page 122<br />
Some sections follow asphalt roads and bike paths, others are suitable for bicyclists<br />
of average technical capacity, along dirt roads with slightly rough or uneven<br />
road beds (cattle tracks, cart roads, etc.) and smooth, well-beaten trails. Almost<br />
all legs have steep climbs. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the route runs parallel to the Via<br />
Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino,<br />
Certaldo, and then in Acquaviva.<br />
Note: The tourist-style bike route is not particularly difficult, other than the need<br />
for adequate physical training related to the climbs and the length of the legs.<br />
Little-used asphalt roads account for 55% of the route and are suitable also for<br />
racing bikes; the remaining 45% have gravel and beaten earth road beds and are<br />
suitable for either mountain or city bikes.<br />
85<br />
The Arno at the Ponte della Vittoria, Florence
Hospitality Along The Way<br />
86<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
The existence of a full range of hospitality facilities along the<br />
way to Pisa is sufficient to demonstrate that in the Middle Ages<br />
the road was used by pilgrims, with a hospice in populo Sanctae<br />
Mariae de Verzaria iuxta stratam qua itur Florentia Pisas right<br />
at the route’s beginning in Florence near Porta San Frediano.<br />
Hospices were also found in “burgo Sancti Fridiani”, Legnaia (the<br />
hospice of the Cappone), Ponte a Greve, and Casellina (the Hospice<br />
Pontis de Grieve and the Hospice de Casellina). Continuing<br />
along, there were: the hospice of Sant’Antonio in Lastra a Signa,<br />
founded in 1411 by order of the Florentine consuls of the Silk<br />
Weavers’ Guild; a hospice set “prope fossatum Rimagii et prope<br />
stratam publicam” in Gangalandi, the hospice of San Francesco,<br />
and that of the parish church in Signa. Other institutions that offered<br />
hospitality to pilgrims were the Hospice Virginis Marie sive<br />
della Tagliata and a hospice run by the Dominicans in Montelupo,<br />
the Hospice Sancti Leonardi de Cerbaiola in Cerbaiola, and<br />
especially in Empoli where, in the 14 th century, the existence of<br />
three hospices is documented: the Domus pauperum hospitalis,<br />
the Hospice Ecclesiae Sancti Augustini and the Hospice Societas<br />
Annunciate plebis.<br />
In addition to these charitable organizations were commercial<br />
accommodation structures that concentrated in the main towns<br />
through which the road passed – in Empoli, Lastra a Signa and<br />
Gangalandi, above all. Yet it is clear from the 1334 Statuto of<br />
the Innkeepers’ Guild that private hospitatores were also found<br />
in Lignaria, Scandicci, Pons ad Grevem, Planus Septimi, Ugnanus,<br />
Malmantile, Monslupus, and Ponturmus.<br />
Along the Arno at the Indiano
The Via Quinctia<br />
The medieval route of the Via Pisana followed the general outlines<br />
of the Via Quinctia, the Roman road to Pisa. While the 1752<br />
discovery of a milestone near Montelupo, whose inscription –<br />
T.QUINTIUS. T.F. / FLAMINIUS / COS / PISAS X – allowed the road<br />
to be identified, nothing remains of the characteristic Roman road<br />
bed, erased by centuries of history, and especially by the Arno as<br />
it flooded and changed course.<br />
In turn, the modern road follows the directional axis of the medieval<br />
road to Pisa whose course, however, was probably characterized<br />
by passing nearer the foothills thus further away from the<br />
course of the Arno. Over time, there were corrections, adjustments,<br />
and modifications to its course. In fact, the 1322-1325<br />
Statuto del Capitano del Popolo talks of a “stratam novam et carrarecciam<br />
confectam a Ponte de Signe ad Pontem Pese de Monte<br />
Lupo” (Liber IV Capitulus X).<br />
However, the string of villages – many with the typically elongated<br />
urban structure of the “street-villages” – leaves no doubt about<br />
the general correspondence between the modern and the medieval<br />
course of a road that, as Repetti states, was still in the 19 th century<br />
“the most utilized of all the post roads, both for goods and<br />
transport that pass, over it and for its comfort, breadth and excellent<br />
maintenance, as well as the frequency of the villages, hamlets<br />
and towns that it crosses” (E.REPETTI, Dizionario geografico fisico<br />
storico della Toscana, Florence 1832-1843, vol. V, p.570).<br />
Certaldo Alto seen from the hills to the North<br />
87
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 1:<br />
PORTA SAN FREDIANO (Florence)<br />
LASTRA A SIGNA<br />
San Martino<br />
Le Piagge Railway Station<br />
San Donnino<br />
Piazzaletto dell’Indiano<br />
Signa<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 11<br />
Renai Park<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Ponte alla Vittoria<br />
Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />
LEG 1 to<br />
Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
see page 94<br />
88<br />
Mill near Renai
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station,<br />
Renai Park, Signa<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 30<br />
Distance: km 15,5<br />
Travel time: 4h<br />
Entirely on the plain, this leg is a tourist-style route that goes along narrow<br />
asphalt roads and shared-use paths. It is well marked and does not present any<br />
orientation problems.<br />
The tourist-style route begins from Porta San Frediano, crosses Cascine Park<br />
in Florence, and continues on the shared-use path that goes from Florence to<br />
Renai Park in Signa. The last part passes through the towns of Signa and Lastra<br />
a Signa.<br />
Note: The route requires a minimum of physical training. Asphalt roads account<br />
for 55% of the itinerary, with the remaining 45% gravel and dirt roads, making<br />
it suitable for either a mountain or a city bike.<br />
Transport:<br />
Florence<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
To be seen:<br />
Renai Park in Signa<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in Signa<br />
15 th -century town walls in Lastra a Signa<br />
San Martino in Gangalandi<br />
89<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />
90<br />
Santa Maria in Mantignano and San Salvatore in Settimo<br />
The construction of a bike path on the left side of the river is under<br />
consideration. It would run from the Cascine over the Ponte<br />
dell’Indiano, and could be used to visit places of particular historical<br />
and artistic interest. One such example is in Mantignano with the<br />
ancient Church of Santa Maria, formerly a Benedictine convent of<br />
women. Documented as early as 1082, the church – currently a parish<br />
church – has retained the original Romanesque structure virtually<br />
intact. It has a single nave with an apse and protruding transept. But<br />
of special interest, near the ancient Via Pisana, is the Abbey of San<br />
Salvatore in Settimo, a very important church in the religious history<br />
of Florence. According to tradition, the abbey was founded in the<br />
early 11 th century by Lotario of the Cadolingi counts and, like all Benedictine<br />
foundations, offered hospitality. The hospitium peregrinorum<br />
sive pauperum dates back to 1096 and was built on land donated to<br />
the monastery by the Carolingian Count Ughiccione. In 1060 the abbey<br />
of Settimo passed to the Vallombrosan Order and was the scene<br />
of the miraculous event related to Peter Igneous, the monk who<br />
passed the “trial by fire” (hence his name), demonstrating the truth<br />
of the allegations of simony that Saint John Gualbert had addressed<br />
to the bishop of Florence, Pietro Mezzabarba. In 1236 the Cistercians<br />
replaced the Vallombrosans and remained until the Leopoldine<br />
suppression in 1782. We owe them the reorganization of the great<br />
abbey complex that, in addition to the church, includes a series of<br />
monastic buildings gathered around two cloisters and with the whole<br />
enclosed by 14 th - and 15 th -century fortifications. Today the church retains<br />
the layout that was the result of a 13 th -century reconstruction<br />
carried out by the Cistercians that incorporated the structures of the<br />
existing 11 th -century building, still visible in some of the walls and in<br />
the left apse. It consists of three aisles with wooden trusses, but the<br />
choir is the result of a 15 th -century renovation. Below the presbytery is<br />
the vaulted crypt with columns, another remnant of the 11 th -century<br />
building. We should also note that the sepulcher of the countesses<br />
Gasdia and Cilla dates back to the original building; the sepulcher is a<br />
chest inlaid with white and serpentine marble, with a fronton and the<br />
inscription anno 1096. Also of great importance are the large 15 th -<br />
century cloister and the large, three-aisled chapter room with cross<br />
vaulted ceilings rising from columns. The entire complex is currently<br />
undergoing significant renovations and improvements.<br />
The Fortifications of the Abbey of Settimo
While our itinerary essentially follows that of the medieval Via<br />
Pisana, we branch off on to paths to avoid the intense vehicle<br />
traffic that characterizes the modern Tosco-Romagnola state<br />
road that retraces the ancient Via Pisana.<br />
A bike path goes along Lungarno Santa Rosa near Porta San<br />
Frediano that continues as far as Piazza Taddeo Gaddi in front<br />
of the Ponte alla Vittoria. We cross the bridge and enter Cascine<br />
Park, which runs along the right bank of the Arno, thus avoiding<br />
the western outskirts of the city while remaining in a very beautiful<br />
natural setting.<br />
We go through Cascine Park along Viale Lincoln and then on<br />
Viale Washington until we reach the Piazzaletto dell’Indiano and<br />
take Via di San Biagio a Petroio. A bike path starts here that runs<br />
on the right side of the river until reaching Renai Park in Signa.<br />
This path is recommended, although the ancient route of the Via<br />
Pisana ran along the left side of the Arno where obviously all of<br />
the historical and territorial evidence linked to the road is found.<br />
Detail of the porch, Hospice of S.Antonio, Lastra a Signa<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1<br />
91<br />
Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Cascine Park<br />
11 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
Renai Park<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Signa<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
Church of San Martino<br />
a Gangalandi<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
www.vieromee.it
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1<br />
92<br />
As we have said, the bike path continues along the right bank<br />
of the Arno and goes directly to Signa. Set at the top of a hill<br />
whose slope overlooks the river, the oldest part of Signa has<br />
maintained the layout of the medieval castle as well as some<br />
remnants of the defensive walls that encircled it, including the<br />
turreted Porta di San Miniato and the nearby Church of Santa<br />
Maria al Castello. In the lower part of the town – the ancient<br />
village of the castle – is the late-Romanesque Parish Church of<br />
San Giovanni Battista, with three wide aisles divided by circular<br />
pillars made of stone ashlars. Not far away is the Oratory<br />
of San Lorenzo, Signa’s early parish church; it is a single-nave<br />
church, attributable to the 12 th century and contains a coeval<br />
pulpit in marble slabs inlaid with geometric designs.<br />
We cross the Arno at Signa; the small village of Ponte a Signa is<br />
just beyond the bridge on the State Road. Its name derives from<br />
the bridge over the Arno that has been destroyed several times<br />
over the centuries and whose earliest historical reference dates<br />
back to 1217. A hospice, documented in 1258, stood near the<br />
bridge that was guarded by a medieval fortification called “the<br />
Tower”, which is still standing and overlooks the road.<br />
At Ponte a Signa, we continue for a short stretch on the state<br />
road, but in the opposite direction so as to reach San Martino<br />
a Gangalandi and Lastra a Signa.<br />
Just beyond Gangalandi lies Lastra a Signa, whose most ancient<br />
center has preserved the early 15 th -century fortifications<br />
that enclosed the “terra”, or city, including the main gateway,<br />
the so-called “Portone di Baccio”, topped by a high tower. Of<br />
great interest, inside the walls is the Hospice of Sant’Antonio,<br />
a large 15 th -century building having, at its base, a loggia with<br />
seven arches which are partially walled up and rise from pietra<br />
serena octagonal columns with foliage capitals. Even if individual<br />
elements are gothicizing, the proportions and spaces show an<br />
already Renaissance vision that makes us think it is an early work<br />
by Brunelleschi, whose activity for the town wall restoration<br />
work in Lastra a Signa is documented. The three large rooms<br />
with cross vaulted ceilings that look on to the loggia are where<br />
travelers and pilgrims were housed. A coat-of-arms for the Silk<br />
Weavers’ Guild appears on the lintel of a 15 th -century fireplace<br />
in one of the large rooms on the first floor, reminding us of the<br />
guild’s role in building the hospice.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
(Florence)<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Cascine Park<br />
11 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
Renai Park<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Signa<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
Church of San Martino<br />
a Gangalandi<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Lastra a Signa
A LAND OF SAINTS<br />
Blessed Giovanna of Signa<br />
The rural church of Signa was also called the “parish church of the<br />
Blessed Soul” and, in the Middle Ages, it attracted a considerable flow<br />
of pilgrims, mostly from the surrounding area. In fact, in a 15 th -century<br />
wooden chest painted by Pietro da Gambassi, the church housed the<br />
body of the Blessed Giovanna of Signa, a pious woman from the 14 th<br />
century. Her intense ascetic virtues and the miracles wrought during her<br />
life were the basis of the particular devotion for this blessed woman immediately<br />
following her death. Already in the first half of the 15 th century,<br />
the walls of the church’s apse were frescoed with Episodes from<br />
the Life of the Blessed Giovanna by a painter from Neri di Bicci’s circle,<br />
the so-called “Master of Signa”. The growth in the number of pilgrims,<br />
attracted by the miraculous virtues attributed to the blessed woman,<br />
must also have led to the creation of the hospice of Santi Gualberto<br />
and Onofrio adjoining the church and documented as early as 1376.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Church of San Martino a Gangalandi<br />
Recorded in the early 12 th century as the suffragan of the Signa parish<br />
church, the church of Gangalandi – not by chance named after Saint<br />
Martin, the patron saint of travelers – obtained the privilege of having<br />
a baptismal font in 1278, a consequence of the collapse of the bridge<br />
over the Arno that had made communication difficult with the mother<br />
church across the river. For this reason, the building was enlarged, its<br />
construction dating to the years between the 13 th and 14 th centuries,<br />
with the exception of the elegant décor in the apse with pietra serena<br />
pilasters and cornices, which is traditionally attributed to Leon Battista<br />
Alberti. On the façade is a large colonnade, inside of which was a late<br />
medieval fresco representing St. Christopher; a clear reference to the<br />
assistance given to pilgrims, that was later detached and placed inside<br />
the church. Moreover, a hospice existed in Gangalandi prope stratam<br />
publicam and, not unexpectedly, the art works kept in the church refer<br />
to acts of charity towards travelers. A fragment of a 14 th -century<br />
fresco shows Saint Martin on horseback whereas he is depicted giving<br />
his cloak to a poor man in the frescoes by Bicci di Lorenzo that<br />
decorate the walls of the internal tempietto that serves as a baptistery.<br />
93<br />
Detail of the frescoes in the Church of San Martino a Gangalandi
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 2:<br />
LASTRA A SIGNA<br />
EMPOLI<br />
Continuing of LEG 1<br />
see page 88<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Villa Caruso Bellosguardo<br />
Torre della Badia<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 2<br />
La Falterona<br />
Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
Malmantile<br />
LEG 2 to<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
see page 100<br />
Turbone<br />
FIbbiana<br />
Montelupo<br />
Gavignano<br />
Turbone<br />
Empoli<br />
Church of Sant’Ippolito<br />
94<br />
The Town Walls of Lastra a Signa
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Villa Caruso, Monastery of Lecceto, Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito,<br />
Montelupo, Fibbiana<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 170<br />
Distance: km 21.9<br />
Travel time: 5h55’<br />
This tourist-style leg goes primarily along dirt roads, in the stretch between<br />
Lastra a Signa and S. Ippolito, whereas the final part is exclusively along asphalt<br />
roads. The route is well-marked and does not offer any problems of orientation.<br />
The initial climb towards the Monastery of Lecceto and the overall distance of<br />
this section require suitable physical training.<br />
Note: There is very little shade along this leg except for the wooded stretch<br />
between Lastra a Signa and Malmantile. Water and refreshments can be found<br />
in the towns and villages along the way. Particular attention should be paid by<br />
those on foot along the provincial and regional roadways between Sant’Ippolito<br />
and Montelupo and between Cortenuova and the center of Empoli.<br />
Transport:<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Lecceto/Malmantile<br />
Empoli<br />
To be seen:<br />
Villa Caruso Bellosguardo<br />
Hermitage of Lecceto<br />
Castle of Malmantile<br />
Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />
House of Pontormo – at Pontormo, near Empoli<br />
95<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Montelupo, The Land of Ceramics<br />
Located near the confluence of the Pesa into the River Arno, Montelupo<br />
was one of the main centers encountered on the course of<br />
the Via Pisana: not by chance were there two hospices as well as<br />
numerous accommodation facilities (inns and hostels). It is famous<br />
still today for the artistic pottery and the ceramics industry that<br />
have existed here since the Middle Ages, and, as a result, is now<br />
the seat of an important museum of ceramics. Its parish church is<br />
dedicated to St. John the Evangelist and was founded in 1326 on<br />
the site of a hospice dedicated to St. Nicholas. Currently, however,<br />
the church shows the results of a radical 18 th -century renovation.<br />
The town of Montelupo is dominated by the ruins of the Florentine<br />
castle built in the 13 th century to oppose the Pistoiese one of<br />
Capraia facing it from across the Arno. One of the fort’s towers<br />
was used as the bell-tower of the castle church of San Lorenzo,<br />
a building from the 13 th -14 th centuries, renovated during the Renaissance.<br />
Church of San Lorenzo a Montelupo<br />
96
To continue towards Montelupo after Lastra a Signa, we suggest<br />
using provincial road No. 72 as an alternative to the modern<br />
Via Pisana; it starts near Ponte a Signa and winds through the<br />
hills that divide the lower Valdarno from the Val di Pesa. On this<br />
route, we find the Church of Santa Maria delle Selve, a Carmelite<br />
monastery founded on a villa given to the order by the Del<br />
Pace family in 1343, then the Dominican Convent of Lecceto,<br />
dedicated to Saints Philip and James, established in 1473 with<br />
the support of Filippo Strozzi.<br />
A little further on is the castle of Malmantile, which has preserved<br />
remarkably intact the entire boundary wall built at the<br />
beginning of the 15 th century. A rectangular plan with towers at<br />
the corners and in the middle of the long sides, the walls open<br />
at the two gates in the two shorter sides, at the ends of the road<br />
that divides the town. Along the perimeter of the walls are embrasures,<br />
above which some of the brackets still remain, namely<br />
the corbels in pietra serena that supported the parapet walks.<br />
Reconstruction of the walls of Malmantile<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2<br />
97<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
2 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Church of Santa Maria delle Selve<br />
4.6 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Castle of Malmantile<br />
Church of San Pietro in Selve<br />
8.4 km<br />
Time: 2h10’<br />
Montelupo<br />
0.7 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />
Church of San Michele Arcangelo<br />
a Pontorme<br />
5 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Empoli<br />
1.2 km<br />
Time: 20’<br />
www.vieromee.it
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2<br />
Just beyond Malmantile, we come to the Church of San Pietro<br />
in Selve, on whose façade are preserved the 14 th -century frescoes<br />
depicting some saints, including a Saint Christopher (another<br />
reference to the heavenly protection of travelers!).<br />
Returning to Malmantile, we retrace our steps for 200 meters<br />
and then turn right onto a dirt road that crosses Scopicci and<br />
Villa Gello, sloping down to the valley floor of the Pesa River. We<br />
come to the Parish Church of Sant’Ippolito and Cassiano,<br />
the ancient matrix church of Montelupo, a beautiful Romanesque<br />
building with a single nave and a protruding transept that<br />
ends in a semi-circular apse.<br />
Along a dirt road we come to the pedestrian bridge over the<br />
Turbone River, a tributary of the Pesa, and then use an internal<br />
secondary road to the left of the provincial road that connects<br />
Montelupo to Cerbaia.<br />
Our journey continues towards the Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana,<br />
built by Ferdinand I and designed by Bernardo Buontalenti.<br />
Then, following along the left bank of the Arno, we reach<br />
the small village of Torre, whose name derives from the late<br />
medieval tower that overlooks the river. Then we head in the<br />
direction of Empoli on an internal track that runs parallel to the<br />
Tosco-Romagnola state road and passes through a series of small<br />
villages (Fibbiana, Tinaia, Cortenuova, and Pontorme), each<br />
with a parish church, with the one in Pontorme being especially<br />
significant. Dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel, the Romanesque<br />
façade preserves traces of the original brickwork; a<br />
hospice dedicated to Saint Mary was attached to the church and<br />
documented from 1334.<br />
98<br />
We reach Empoli, the main stop on the Via Pisana in the Florentine<br />
countryside, as seen by the three hospices that were located<br />
there as well as the other accommodation structures and businesses<br />
there.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
2 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Church of Santa Maria delle Selve<br />
4.6 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Castle of Malmantile<br />
Church of San Pietro in Selve<br />
8.4 km<br />
Time: 2h10’<br />
Montelupo<br />
0.7 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />
Church of San Michele Arcangelo<br />
a Pontorme<br />
5 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Empoli<br />
1.2 km<br />
Time: 20’
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Churches of Empoli<br />
Before entering the historic center, we find the 17 th -century<br />
Church of the Madonna del Pozzo, an unusual octagonal tabernacle<br />
preceded by a small nave and surrounded outside by a loggia.<br />
The building was erected on the spot where formerly there<br />
had stood a tabernacle; miraculously unscathed in a fire, it was<br />
for this reason that it also became a pilgrimage destination, albeit<br />
in a strictly local sense. It was located outside the 15 th -century<br />
walls that enclosed the medieval village, and remains of the walls<br />
are still visible in several parts of the city. Inside the walls were the<br />
Gothic Church of Santo Stefano, part of a convent of Augustinian<br />
friars, and the ancient Parish Church of Sant’Andrea. Romanesque<br />
features of the latter remain only on the lower part of the<br />
façade. (The upper part was rebuilt in the 18 th -century when the<br />
church was radically altered to create a single large nave). The five<br />
harmonious arches in green and white marble on the surviving<br />
section of the façade clearly recall the façade of San Miniato al<br />
Monte in Florence and are the only example in all the countryside<br />
of the decorative practice of covering buildings with marble inlays,<br />
typical of the Florentine Romanesque style.<br />
The Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea in Empoli<br />
99
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 3:<br />
EMPOLI<br />
CASTELFIORENTINO<br />
Empoli<br />
Continuing of LEG 2<br />
see page 94<br />
Cerbaiola<br />
Casino<br />
di Monterbero<br />
Il Torrino<br />
Santa Domitilla<br />
Pozzale<br />
Corniola<br />
Montemagnoli<br />
Monterappoli<br />
Sant’Andrea<br />
Bellosguardo<br />
Camposano<br />
Belvedere<br />
Castelnuovo D’Elsa<br />
Cafaggio<br />
Cambiano<br />
100<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Castelfiorentino on an 18 th -century cadastral map
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 180<br />
Distance: km 21<br />
Travel time: 5h40’<br />
This leg is a tourist-style hike: half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There<br />
can be problems of orientation on some of the rural stretches that lack references<br />
to place-names. The hilly stretch is characterized by panoramic views on<br />
the Val d’Elsa.<br />
Note: The route is half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There are few<br />
points where water or refreshments are available. You must be in good physical<br />
condition for the walk. Monterappoli is the first point that connects with the Via<br />
Francigena that, passing through Pogni and Mulin Novo, connects us to “Sigeric’s<br />
route” in Baccanella. It is also possible to reach the Via Francigena from Castelfiorentino<br />
through a junction that heads south from Viale dei Profeti. Past the<br />
bridge over the Scolmatore canal, we turn right and stay on Viale dei Profeti. Once<br />
past Palazzina, we come again to the Via Francigena.<br />
Transport:<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
To be seen:<br />
Church of San Leonardo in Cerbaiola<br />
Church of Santi Simone and Giuda a Corniola<br />
Panorama of the Val d’Elsa from Il Torrino<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Monterappoli<br />
Panorama from Bellosguardo<br />
Panorama from Belvedere<br />
Sanctuary of Santa Verdiana and the Museum of Sacred Art – Castelfiorentino<br />
101<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />
in Monterappoli<br />
The original characteristics of this brick building have been preserved<br />
almost intact. It has a large single nave that ends in a<br />
semicircular apse and is enriched by external wall decorations (intertwined<br />
arches, bull’s eye windows, small embedded windows,<br />
the central part of the façade jutting out) that highlight the involvement<br />
of workers from the Po River valley as confirmed by the<br />
inscription on the portal lintel that refers to its craftsman, MAG-<br />
ISTER BONSERI EX GENTE LOMBARDA, as well as the year of its<br />
construction (1165). A series of architectural ceramics – only a few<br />
remain – set at the top of the façade refer to an ornamental practice<br />
that undoubtedly arrived by way of Pisa. The door lintel also<br />
displays a carved benedictory Dextera Domini, or Hand of God, a<br />
clear sign of the charitable function that the parish church must<br />
have had for pilgrims.<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Monterappoli<br />
102
Leaving the historical center of Empoli, we move into the residential<br />
district of Quartiere Carrara in the direction of the Empoli<br />
suburb of Pratovecchio. We come to the Church of San Leonardo<br />
di Cerbaiola, a former pilgrims’ hospice founded by the<br />
Guidi counts in the 12 th century, and that belonged to the Order<br />
of Malta from the 16 th century until the Napoleonic suppression.<br />
A little farther on, we reach the Church of Santi Simone e<br />
Giuda a Corniola, which was the site of a Carmelite convent,<br />
whose beautiful 17 th -century cloister remains.<br />
In Empoli, we leave the Via Pisana behind to head south to join<br />
the most recent of the various routes constituting the Via Francigena<br />
that ran along the right bank of the Elsa River.<br />
After Corniola, we come to the road that is considered to have<br />
supplanted this important medieval artery and which follows<br />
along the ridge of low hills – that serve as the watershed between<br />
the Valdelsa and the Val d’Orme – a more internal route<br />
than that of the state road 429 in the valley below, which goes<br />
back up the course of the Elsa. Along the way, we come to the<br />
village of Monterappoli, the ancient castle of the Guidi counts,<br />
whose parish church has traces of the original Romanesque<br />
building in brick. Not far from it is the parish church dedicated<br />
to Saint John the Evangelist.<br />
The benedictory Dextera Domini, parish church of San Giovanni Battista in Monterappoli<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3<br />
103<br />
Empoli<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Church of Santi Simone<br />
e Giuda a Corniola<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Monterappoli<br />
0.7 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />
11.1 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
www.vieromee.it
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3<br />
Monterappoli represents the first opportunity to link up with the<br />
oldest part of the Via Francigena that runs through the hills on<br />
the left bank of the Elsa River. In fact, we go down into the valley<br />
where the river runs parallel to state road 429, and cross the<br />
Elsa at Molin Novo. We then go back up towards the ridge of<br />
hills as far as Baccanella, once along the ancient route whose<br />
place-name makes clear its relation to the road as it derived from<br />
there having once been a stopping place.<br />
Continuing on the right hand of the Elsa, we descend into the<br />
small Ormicello River valley and then climb up to Monteravoli: a<br />
centuries-old holm-oak along the road is a clear and obvious point<br />
of reference. Across the beautiful Val d’Elsa countryside – along<br />
the way we come across names like Bellosguardo and Belvedere<br />
– we reach Castelfiorentino, the stopping point on the<br />
“new” Via Francigena, unfailingly recalled in the pilgrims’ memoirs,<br />
starting from the 12 th century.<br />
Church of Santa Verdiana in Castelfiorentino<br />
104<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Empoli<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Church of Santi Simone<br />
e Giuda a Corniola<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Monterappoli<br />
0.7 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />
11.1 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
Castelfiorentino
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Castelfiorentino: An Important Crossroads<br />
Built at the intersection of the Via Francigena and the Via Volterrana<br />
at the point where the latter crossed the Elsa River, Castelfiorentino<br />
was a crossroads of primary importance in the Middle<br />
Ages: 14 th -century sources speak of the existence of two hospices<br />
in the castle (the Hospitale Sancte Crucis and the Hospitale Spiritus<br />
Sancti), besides the inns, naturally. In the highest area of the<br />
oldest part of the town stretching downward on the southern<br />
slope of a hill towards the Elsa, a part of the brick walls that surrounded<br />
the town has been preserved, together with two churches:<br />
the Parish Church of Sant’Ippolito and the Collegiate Church<br />
of San Lorenzo. Both buildings are among the most significant<br />
examples of the large group of Romanesque, brick buildings with<br />
a single nave (as we have previously seen in Monterappoli). They<br />
were built by workers from Lombardy who were active in lower<br />
Valdelsa in the second half of the 12 th century. Two other important<br />
religious buildings are found outside the ancient walls, on<br />
the “Plain of Elsa”: the Gothic church of San Francesco, previously<br />
annexed to the homonymous monastery, and the Sanctuary<br />
of Santa Verdiana, a simple and pleasing 18 th -century Baroque<br />
building dedicated to the saint of Castelfiorentino whose body is<br />
preserved there.<br />
LAND OF SAINTS<br />
The Hermitage of Santa Verdiana<br />
The Sanctuary was a pilgrimage destination especially – but not<br />
exclusively – for the populace of the Val d’Elsa because of their<br />
special devotion to the saint, represented in many of the paintings<br />
collected in the Museum of Sacred Art annexed to the church.<br />
From Castelfiorentino, Verdiana degli Attavanti (1178-1242) lived<br />
the last thirty-four years of her life in the company of two snakes,<br />
in a cell of the hermitage in front of the Oratory of Sant’Antonio<br />
Abate, just outside the city’s walls. After her death, Verdiana was<br />
buried under the altar of the hermitage where she had lived for<br />
so long and over which a church was later erected in her honor.<br />
It is not known with certainty when her sanctification was proclaimed,<br />
however it must have happened in the second half of<br />
the 13 th century, if mention of an “Ecclesia Sanctae Verdianae de<br />
Castro florentino” is already made in the early 14 th century and if,<br />
in the last novella of the fifth day of the Decameron, Boccaccio<br />
recalls her as a saint with this expression: “... an old woman who<br />
showed like Saint Verdiana, that giveth the serpents to eat”.<br />
We also know that during her life, with “quibusdam dominabus”<br />
of Castelfiorentino, Saint Verdiana went on a pilgrimage to Santiago<br />
de Compostela (O. POGNI, Vita di Santa Verdiana d’incognito<br />
autore, Empoli 1936).<br />
105
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 4:<br />
CASTELFIORENTINO<br />
CERTALDO<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 3<br />
Passignano<br />
Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />
Voltignano<br />
Poggio al Cielo<br />
Bagnolo<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Oliveto Castle<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
LOCAL<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Pian Grande<br />
Belvedere<br />
Ponzano<br />
San Giorsole<br />
Fraille<br />
Quercitella<br />
106<br />
Certaldo<br />
LEG 3 to<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
see page 112<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Val d’Elsa countryside
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Villa di Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 160<br />
Distance: km 15.1<br />
Travel time: 4h15’<br />
A tourist-style hike on dirt and asphalt roads.<br />
There may be orientation problems in some of the rural stretches where placename<br />
references are missing. The route is characterized by stupendous views of<br />
the Val d’Elsa.<br />
Note: When the main route enters the road to Lucardo, after 500 m. we find<br />
a detour on the right to go on the Local Itinerary, for Castle of Oliveto (Via di<br />
Monte Oliveto). In addition, after about 2 km from this detour, we come to the<br />
intersection in Piangrande to the Alternative Route that leads to San Martino<br />
a Maiano and San Lazzaro, with a stop in Casale. Otherwise, we continue on to<br />
Certaldo. The Via Francigena can be reached from Certaldo by another connecting<br />
road. There are few points with water and refreshments.<br />
Transport:<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
To be seen:<br />
Castle of Oliveto<br />
House of Boccaccio - Certaldo<br />
Museum of Sacred Art - Certaldo<br />
Museum of the Palazzo Pretorio - Certaldo<br />
Canonica Park - Certaldo<br />
107<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castealfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Certaldo<br />
Certaldo rose as a castle of the Alberti counts in order to control<br />
passage along the Via Francigena. It witnessed a rapid development<br />
between the 12 th and 13 th centuries, thanks to this road that<br />
ran at the foot of the hill on which the village rose. Its original<br />
urban plan as well as its architectural and environmental characteristics<br />
has been preserved almost intact. Following the contours of<br />
the hill, the town walls from the 13 th and 14 th centuries still encircle<br />
the medieval town, which is divided longitudinally by a broad street<br />
that leads towards the 15 th -century Palazzo del Vicario, located on<br />
the highest point where the Alberti Castle once stood. A particularly<br />
distinctive feature of Certaldo is the use of the locally made<br />
red brick in all the castle buildings, including the two churches<br />
found here: the rectory of Santi Michele e Jacopo and the Church<br />
of San Tommaso. Both have a single-nave, Romanesque plan; a<br />
surviving ceramic basin with Arabic epigraphic characters on the<br />
cusp of the façade of San Tommaso demonstrates the relationship<br />
between Certaldo and Pisa, one apparently favored by the road<br />
network. The presence in the castle of a rectory is also significant:<br />
the small communities of priests who lived together (i.e. the canons)<br />
were devoted to providing hospitality, confirmed in Certaldo,<br />
moreover, at the beginning of the 14 th century by the existence of<br />
two hospices, both dedicated to the Madonna. It must also be remembered<br />
that the rectory kept the remains of the Blessed Giulia<br />
Della Rena, whose flow of local pilgrims added to that of the pious<br />
travelers going along the Via Francigena to Rome.<br />
Reconstruction of the Praetorian Palace in Certaldo<br />
108
After Castelfiorentino, our itinerary continues following the<br />
“new” Via Francigena but on a longer route that unwinds on<br />
the left side of state road 429. Winding through a landscape of<br />
low, intensely cultivated hills dotted with farmhouses, we find<br />
the turreted, Renaissance Villa of Cabbiavoli, then, with a<br />
short detour, the 15 th -century castle of Oliveto. The road then<br />
descends to the bottom of the Elsa Valley, while the medieval<br />
profile of Certaldo, the birthplace of Giovanni Boccaccio, stands<br />
out in the distance.<br />
Glimpse of Certaldo<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 4<br />
109<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
3.6 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />
3.2 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Turreted Manor House of Oliveto<br />
8.3 km<br />
Time: 2h15’<br />
Certaldo<br />
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3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 4, LOCAL ITINERARY:<br />
OLIVETO CASTLE<br />
Passignano<br />
Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />
Voltignano<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Poggio al Cielo<br />
Bagnolo<br />
Oliveto Castle<br />
Via Pian Grande<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
LOCAL<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Petrazzi<br />
Belvedere<br />
MAIN<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Ponzano<br />
San Giorsole<br />
Fraille<br />
Quercitella<br />
Certaldo<br />
110<br />
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 120<br />
Distance: km 4.8<br />
Travel time: 1h35’<br />
The local itinerary begins at the crossroads of Via Lucardese and Via Pian Grande<br />
and, for the most part, goes along the dirt roads that lead to Oliveto Castle<br />
and, completing a circle in the park of the farm, takes us back to our starting<br />
point. It is a hilly route characterized by vantage points over the Val d’Elsa along<br />
easily walkable dirt roads.
Oliveto Castle<br />
111
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 5:<br />
CERTALDO<br />
POGGIBONSI<br />
Continuing of LEG 3<br />
see page 106<br />
Santa Maria a Collina<br />
Montignano<br />
Podere San Luigi<br />
ALTERNATIVE<br />
ROUTE<br />
Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />
Certaldo<br />
Le Case di Sciano<br />
Tre Colli<br />
San Michele a Semifonte<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />
Petrognano<br />
Pastine<br />
Ferrale<br />
Fonterofoli<br />
Sant’Appiano<br />
Le Grillaie<br />
Ellerone<br />
Gavignano<br />
112<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
The fertile Val d’Elsa countryside in spring
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano,<br />
San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 310<br />
Distance: km 20.9<br />
Travel time: 5h<br />
A tourist-style leg mainly on asphalt roads. There are no problems of orientation<br />
or with markings for the itinerary. It is a hilly walk with many panoramic points,<br />
from which several places of interest can be visited.<br />
Those who take the alternative route for Casale, return to the main itinerary at<br />
Podere San Luigi. This leg requires good physical training for the walk.<br />
Transport:<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
To be seen:<br />
Semifonte<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />
Fortress of Poggio Imperiale - Poggibonsi<br />
Sanctuary of Romituzzo - Poggibonsi<br />
113<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5<br />
114<br />
As we leave Certaldo to reach the next stopping point on the Via<br />
Francigena Nova (Poggibonsi) and to avoid the heavily trafficked<br />
state road 429, we suggest a route that goes in the same direction<br />
and allows us to visit a number of Val d’Elsa locations rich<br />
with history and art, despite its greater distance.<br />
From Sciano, we thus take an ancient route, the so-called Via<br />
di San Donnino that crosses the hills on the right side of the<br />
mid-Val d’Elsa. Along the way, we find first of all the Church of<br />
Santa Maria in Bagnano, in which there was a 13 th -century<br />
Madonna and Child by the so-called “Master of Bagnano”, now<br />
in the Certaldo Museum of Sacred Art. The road we are traveling<br />
however was also used by pilgrims in medieval times as an<br />
alternative to the route along the valley floor and it is not by<br />
chance that the existence of a hospice in Bagnano (Santa Maria<br />
de Albagnano) was documented in 1322. Continuing along,<br />
we reach the place where the Alberti castle of Semifonte once<br />
stood, destroyed in 1202 by the Florentines. Nothing remains of<br />
it, however an octagonal chapel was erected on its site in 1597,<br />
San Michele a Semifonte – also called the “Cupola of San Donnino”<br />
– based on a design by Santi di Tito, which exactly reproduces<br />
Brunelleschi’s dome of Santa Maria del Fiore in a 1:8 ratio.<br />
Near the chapel, in the village of Petrognano, a number of<br />
13 th -century tower-houses have been preserved, later converted<br />
into farmhouses, as well the farm-villa of the same name that<br />
also incorporates a pre-existing turreted manor house. Also in<br />
Petrognano there was a hospitality structure for pilgrims (the<br />
spedale pauperum), which is documented as early as 1286.<br />
Proceeding along, we reach the ancient Parish Church of<br />
Sant’Appiano, where again there was a hospice, named for<br />
Saint Nicholas, which is also recorded as early as the late 13 th<br />
century.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Certaldo<br />
8.7 km<br />
Time: 1h25’<br />
Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />
1.7 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte<br />
1.3 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Petrognano<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 1h35’<br />
Poggibonsi
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />
The three-aisle church has preserved some of the original Lombardizing<br />
proto-Romanesque structures, later integrated during<br />
the Romanesque period. In front of the façade of the church are<br />
four cruciform pillars: these are the remains of a 12 th -century octagonal<br />
building topped by a small conical dome, clearly built in<br />
imitation of the Holy Sepulcher. The capitals carved with motifs<br />
that evoke the Eastern Judeo-Christian symbolism and, above all,<br />
its iconography and the central plan served to make the small<br />
building a sort of reproduction of the Jerusalem model.<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />
115
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Poggibonsi was called Marturi before the mid-12 th century construction<br />
of the castle of Podium Bonitii (that would give its name<br />
to the town). It was an important road junction in the Middle<br />
Ages as it was the point where the Via Francigena converged with<br />
a series of routes leading to the main cities in Tuscany. Because of<br />
its importance for the control of the road network, the regional<br />
potentates of the time contested it until 1270 when Florence took<br />
it over permanently, destroying the castle (which stood where the<br />
Medici fortress of Poggio Imperiale is found today) and relocating<br />
the town to the plain. Recent archaeological excavations have unearthed<br />
some traces of Podium Bonitii, adding to the sole surviving<br />
monument: the so-called Fountain of the Fairies, a large public<br />
fountain set on six ogival double-arches. After the castle’s destruction<br />
in 1270, the Franciscan, Gothic Basilica of San Lucchese was<br />
built that, together with its convent, is located on the high ground<br />
facing the castle, whereas nothing remains of the ancient abbey<br />
of San Michele a Marturi, a royal monastery probably founded by<br />
the Lombards and whose vestiges were re-used to make the 19 th<br />
century neo-Gothic castle of Badia.<br />
HOSPITALITY<br />
116<br />
The main stopping point of the Via Francigena<br />
in the Val d’Elsa<br />
Several accounts confirm the importance of Marturi-Podium<br />
Bonitii as a stopping point along the Via Francigena. We need<br />
only recall the many inns mentioned in 14 th -century sources and<br />
the at least four tavernari that appear to have been there in 1221.<br />
Also the presence all around Poggibonsi along the streets that<br />
converged there of seven canonical churches is important (we<br />
have already mentioned how hospitality was among the canons’<br />
tasks). In some of the rectories, moreover, pilgrimage references<br />
and symbols are evident: Jerusalem-style crosses (in Cedda and<br />
Casaglia), the figures of the Magi, the first pilgrims in the story of<br />
salvation (Talciona), and a roadside cross (Cedda).<br />
In the 14 th century, there were four hospices in Poggibonsi, and<br />
two mansions of the Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem,<br />
both of which were just outside the village. The one called Santa<br />
Croce was at Torri, above Poggibonsi (a tall, 13 th -century brick<br />
tower still indicates the site), and the other, on the Via Francigena<br />
towards Siena, was the mansion of San Giovanni Battista al Ponte,<br />
so named because it was located near the crossing of the Staggia<br />
River. The latter has retained the original layout of the premises<br />
that are distributed around an inner courtyard, on which also the<br />
Romanesque church with an apsidal nave opens.
Shortly after, we arrive at Linari Castle, whose lords were the Cadolingi<br />
counts of Fucecchio. It rises on a tuffaceous hillock overlooking<br />
the Elsa plain and preserves some remains of the fortifications<br />
that once stood there. At the foot of the castle stands the neo-<br />
Gothic Parish Church of Santo Stefano, while in the higher part<br />
of the village is the Church of Santa Maria, near which was a<br />
hospice, also named for the Virgin Mary and first recorded in the<br />
early 14 th century.<br />
The next stretch of our itinerary leads us to Poggibonsi, where we<br />
reconnect with state road 429, which leads directly to the historical<br />
center of the town, the main stopping place of the Via Francigena<br />
in the Val d’Elsa, both of the “new” route on the floor of the valley<br />
and the original one – even older than the one on the hill – that<br />
went along halfway up hill on the left of the Elsa.<br />
The Fountain of the Fairies in Poggibonsi<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5<br />
117<br />
Certaldo<br />
8.7 km<br />
Time: 1h25’<br />
Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />
1.7 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte<br />
1.3 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Petrognano<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 1h35’<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
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3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE:<br />
PIAN GRANDE<br />
PODERE SAN LUIGI<br />
Inizio VARIANTE “Tappa 4 / 5”<br />
Villa di Cabbiavoli<br />
Voltignano<br />
Poggio al Cielo<br />
Bagnolo<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Castello di Oliveto<br />
San Martino a Maiano<br />
Pian Grande<br />
Belvedere<br />
Ponzano<br />
Fraille<br />
ITINERARIO<br />
PRINCIPALE<br />
Certaldo<br />
Casale<br />
San Giorsole<br />
Podere San Luigi<br />
Le Case di Sciano<br />
VARIANTE<br />
San Lazzaro<br />
Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />
Tre Colli<br />
Petrognano<br />
San Michele a Semifonte<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />
Pastine<br />
Ferrale<br />
Sant’Appiano<br />
Le Grillaie<br />
Ellerone<br />
Gavignano<br />
118<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Traditional agricultural landscape in Valdelsa
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 190<br />
Distance: km 12,9<br />
Travel time: 3h50’<br />
A tourist-hiking tour on dirt and asphalt roads. The itinerary markings may be<br />
unclear because of the lack of place-names and directional signage.<br />
2 km after the turnoff for Oliveto Castle, near Pian Grande, we can leave the<br />
main itinerary for an alternative one that leads us to the unspoiled landscape<br />
of the Borro di Casale Valley, characterized by olive-groves, cultivated fields,<br />
and woods. This is a small, mostly dirt road along the ridge that leads us to San<br />
Martino a Maiano. We turn right 2.6 km after San Martino a Maiano towards<br />
Casale to see the pinnacles of eroded clay that characterize the “gullies of Casale”.<br />
Here we can stop for a break. From Casale, we go back north for about<br />
800 m and take the road to the right for San Gaudenzio a Ruballa. We continue<br />
as far as Betto, where we get on an asphalt road heading south. After 500<br />
meters, we turn left and go down towards San Lazzaro. After 1.2 km, we reach<br />
an asphalt road and turn left, continuing for about 300 m. We then take the<br />
dirt road on the right. Always keeping to the left, after a few hundred meters<br />
we return to the main itinerary at Podere San Luigi.<br />
Transport:<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Casale<br />
To be seen:<br />
Oliveto Castle<br />
Gullies at Casale<br />
Church of Santa Maria a Casale<br />
119<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Pian Grande<br />
Casale<br />
Podere San Luigi<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
9.2 km<br />
Time: 2h30’<br />
5.9 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
7 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
13.3 km<br />
Time: 4h
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE<br />
Following an alternative route that also goes to Certaldo, but<br />
along the southern outskirts of the modern town, we come to<br />
the parish church of San Lazzaro a Lucardo, where we can<br />
also admire the picturesque Casale landscape with its gullies.<br />
Along this route, which begins a mile after the short detour to<br />
Oliveto, we find in succession, two churches: San Martino a<br />
Maiano and Santa Maria a Casale both formerly suffragans of<br />
the nearby church of San Lazzaro a Lucardo. The latter is one of<br />
the finest medieval churches in the Val d’Elsa, still with its original<br />
Romanesque architectural features, presumably from the years<br />
between the 11 th and 12 th centuries. It consists of three aisles,<br />
divided by a succession of arches rising from simple square pillars<br />
and has a number of technical and decorative motifs of Lombard<br />
origin (small barrel-vaulted arches crowning the apse, pilasters,<br />
offsets in the series of arches) that allow us to identify the workers<br />
as being from the Po River valley.<br />
Parish Church of San Lazzaro<br />
120<br />
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Near Casale<br />
121
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
LEG 6:<br />
POGGIBONSI<br />
MONTERIGGIONI<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Starting point og LEG 4<br />
Tresto<br />
Sassa<br />
Castagneto<br />
Megognano<br />
Poggiarello<br />
Lecchi<br />
Pini<br />
Staggia<br />
Fontana<br />
LEG 4 to Siena<br />
see page 126<br />
La Pineta<br />
Casone<br />
Serfignano<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
122<br />
Acquaviva<br />
junction with the Francigena<br />
Strove<br />
Certino di Sopra<br />
Badia a Isola
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with the Francigena, Strove<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 390<br />
Distance: km 21<br />
Travel time: 5h25’<br />
Tourist-style leg that mainly covers dirt and asphalt roads and does not present<br />
particular orientation problems.<br />
Note: In Acquaviva, the itinerary joins the Via Francigena and continues along it<br />
passing through Strove and Abbadia a Isola as far as Monteriggioni.<br />
Water and refreshments can be found in the villages along the route.<br />
Transport:<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
To be seen:<br />
Staggia Fortress<br />
Castle of Monteriggioni<br />
Badia a Isola<br />
123<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 6<br />
124<br />
From Poggibonsi, our journey continues and connects to the<br />
hilly track of the Via Francigena at Badia a Isola. This route initially<br />
goes along the right side of the Staggia River (crossed at<br />
the mansion of San Giovanni Battista al Ponte), reaching the<br />
villages of Megognano and Lecchi, and then continuing to<br />
Staggia Castle, where we again cross the river. An important<br />
Florentine walled city, or terra murata, on the border with the<br />
state of Siena, Staggia has preserved almost the full circuit of the<br />
14 th - and 15 th -century fortifications that enclosed the town ending<br />
with the fortress. The latter reused the structures of a feudal<br />
castle, which were subsequently transformed and integrated by<br />
the Franzesi, a powerful Florentine merchant family whose fortune<br />
had been created in France.<br />
The route goes from Staggia along the flat valley bottom, reaching<br />
first, the small Romanesque churches of San Silvestro<br />
and of Sant’Antonio ai Laghi and then, Il Casone and Villa<br />
San Luigi.<br />
From here, following the Via Francigena directions, we come to<br />
Siena. In fact, Badia a Isola is quite near: we reach it after passing<br />
through the small village of Strove, where the Romanesque<br />
parish church, dedicated to Saint Martin, again recalls, with its<br />
dedication, the heavenly protection of pilgrims.<br />
Founded in 1001 as a family monastery by the lords of Staggia,<br />
the abbey of San Salvatore a Isola took its name from<br />
the fact that it rose at the edges of the wide swampy depression<br />
that characterized the area during the Middle Ages. The<br />
church was renovated in a Romanesque style around the mid-<br />
12 th century, becoming a large building with a basilican plan.<br />
Inside, it is divided into three aisles with alternating fascia pillars<br />
and columns, reflecting a typically Lombard layout. The building,<br />
however, also displays noticeable northern European influences<br />
(beginning with the twin portals, now partly closed) and ornate,<br />
very low relief decorations that recall a pre-Romanesque style of<br />
Volterran derivation.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
8 km<br />
Time: 1h40’<br />
Castle of Staggia<br />
Church of San Silvestro<br />
2.4 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Church of Sant’Antonio ai Laghi<br />
4 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
Strove<br />
6.6 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
Monteriggioni
Near the abbey on the top of a hill overlooking the Via Francigena,<br />
the Sienese erected the castle of Monteriggioni in the<br />
second decade of the 13 th century whose declared purpose was<br />
to control traffic on this important artery. The almost circular<br />
walls, with fourteen tall, quadrilateral towers that connect the<br />
parapet walk, make Monteriggioni one of Tuscany’s most picturesque<br />
medieval fortified structures, which suggested to Dante<br />
the similarity (Inferno XXXI vv.40-41): “Because as on its circular<br />
parapets / Montereggione crowns itself with towers.”<br />
Beyond Monteriggioni, the Via Francigena continued towards<br />
Siena, following different routes: one now is essentially followed<br />
by the “Cassia” state road; the other two routes ran along the<br />
left of the Staggia River.<br />
One of the two access gates in Monteriggioni<br />
125
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />
Continuing of LEG 4<br />
see page 122<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
LEG 7:<br />
MONTERIGGIONI<br />
PIAZZA DUOMO (SIENA)<br />
Petraglia<br />
Gallinaio<br />
Bracciano<br />
Fioreta<br />
Borgo Cerbaia<br />
Castagnoli<br />
Castle of<br />
the Chiocciola<br />
Villa<br />
Poggetto<br />
San Martino<br />
Fungaia<br />
Cannuccio<br />
Fabbrica<br />
Casalino<br />
Le Querce<br />
Casciano<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
126<br />
Monteriggioni
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Borgo di Cerbaia, Castle of the Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 170<br />
Distance: km 20.5<br />
Travel time: 5h55’<br />
A tourist-style leg that follows either asphalt or natural road beds. Thanks to<br />
the signs for the Via Francigena, there are no problems finding the route. It<br />
is partially shaded by broad-leaved trees. There are few places for water and<br />
refreshments. The panoramas are extremely beautiful.<br />
Note: The itinerary corresponds to the Via Francigena of Sigeric.<br />
The distance covered in this leg requires a certain physical training for the walk.<br />
Transport:<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena<br />
To be seen:<br />
Castle of the Chiocciola<br />
Piazza Duomo – Siena<br />
127<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Frediano<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Leg 2<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Empoli<br />
Leg 3<br />
Empoli<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Leg 4<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Certaldo<br />
Leg 5<br />
Certaldo<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Leg 6<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Leg 7<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Siena
Leaving Monteriggioni, we walk south on the Via Francigena<br />
of Sigeric along the dirt roads of the Montagnola Senese. This<br />
is a series of ridges characterized by the widespread presence<br />
of holm-oak woods and the occasional chestnut and beech<br />
tree. The area is distinguished by a high concentration of parish<br />
churches, villas, monasteries, and castles, something difficult to<br />
find elsewhere.<br />
We thus head south to Cerbaia, a now abandoned medieval<br />
village. We cross some woods to reach the Castle of the Chiocciola.<br />
This is a fortification that was built as an outpost of the<br />
Republic of Siena, its function was to control the transit of pilgrims<br />
arriving from the north along the Via Francigena to Siena<br />
as well as to protect Siena from its enemy, Florence. The castle is<br />
made up of two buildings: a large crenellated keep and a high<br />
cylindrical battlemented tower that ends with a sentry box. The<br />
presence inside the tower of a large spiral staircase, precisely the<br />
shape of a snail, gave the fortification its name. We then pass<br />
through La Villa and descend towards the valley of Pian del Lago,<br />
where we take Montemaggio provincial road 101 to the right.<br />
Then we continue until Osteriaccia and, before the road enters<br />
the woods, we turn left onto a dirt road that leads to Casalino.<br />
We cross the road of Pian del Lago, and go on back streets to<br />
Convento Vecchio. Here, the place-name refers to the old Charterhouse<br />
of Belriguardo, built in 1340; it was later abandoned<br />
by the Carthusians in 1635 because of the unwholesomeness of<br />
the rooms.<br />
128<br />
Continuing east, we cross the ring road to arrive in Acqua Calda<br />
on the outskirts of Siena, and then continue to the historical<br />
center. From Porta Camollia, the northern entrance into Siena,<br />
the Via Francigena enters through the walls. From here, it is easy<br />
to find directions to the hospice of Santa Maria della Scala in<br />
Piazza Duomo.<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Ancient village of Cerbaia<br />
Castle of the Chiocciola<br />
Castle of the Villa<br />
Casalino<br />
Le Querce<br />
Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />
4.4 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
0.5 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
6.3 km<br />
Time: 1h40’<br />
2.3 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
5.5 km<br />
Time: 1h40’
129<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 7<br />
Above: Hospice of Santa Maria della Scala / Below: Frescoes, hospice
130<br />
The city of Siena (from the “Libro del Biadaiolo”, Laurentian Library, Florence)<br />
HOSPITALITY<br />
The Hospices in Siena<br />
In Siena, pilgrims could find hospitality in the many inns found<br />
in the city, or in the equally numerous religious or secular hospices,<br />
among which the “Xenodochium hospitalis et de Canonica<br />
Sanctae Mariae” (later Santa Maria della Scala) stood out. It had<br />
branches throughout the Sienese territory, especially along the<br />
route of the Via Francigena. In front of the cathedral in Piazza<br />
Duomo is a large complex of mostly medieval buildings that was<br />
the hospital of La Scala and is now a museum.
ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Rooms Affittacamere<br />
Via Guardiana, 9<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8722985<br />
querceimm@inwind.it<br />
Valdirose Affittacamere<br />
Via Val di Rose, 37<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8724608<br />
Fax: 055 8724608<br />
irene@valdirose.com<br />
www.valdirose.com<br />
Viallani Enrico Agriturismo<br />
Via L. da Vinci, 47/49 - Calcinaia<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8723629 - Fax: 055 8723594<br />
agriturismo.cupoli@katamail.com<br />
www.agriturismocupoli.it<br />
Villa Toscana Affittacamere<br />
Via di Calcinaia, 105<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8723149<br />
Fax: 055 8723149<br />
info@florencehouserental.com<br />
www.florencehouserental.com<br />
Zantedeschi Giovanna Affittacamere<br />
Via Erta, 27<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 702165<br />
Lecceto<br />
Casa le Tuje B&B<br />
Via del Fantone, 2<br />
Malmantile<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8729113<br />
info@casaletuje.it<br />
www.casaletuje.it<br />
Tenuta San Vito Agriturismo<br />
Via San Vito, 59<br />
Malmantile<br />
50056 Montelupo Fiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 51411<br />
Fax: 0571 51405<br />
sanvito@san-vito.com<br />
www.san-vito.com<br />
Villa Saulina Agriturismo<br />
Via Maremmana, 11<br />
Malmantile<br />
50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8729511<br />
Fax: 055 878065<br />
info@villasaulina.it<br />
www.villasaulina.it<br />
Empoli<br />
Parrocchia San Simone e Giuda<br />
Via di Corniola, 75<br />
Corniola<br />
50053 Empoli<br />
Tel: parroco 0571 924658<br />
Cell: 3286689734<br />
Queen Zenobia Affittacamere<br />
Via Rozzalupi, 21<br />
50053 Empoli<br />
Tel: 0571 72646<br />
queenzenobia@libero.it<br />
www.queenzenobia.it<br />
Scarselli Affittacamere<br />
Via Meucci, 2<br />
50053 Empol<br />
Tel: 0571 960090<br />
info@scarselliaffittacamere.it<br />
www.scarselliaffittacamere.it<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Il Grande Prato Ostello<br />
Via Renai, 11<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 61744<br />
Fax: 0571 635875<br />
info@grandeprato.it<br />
www.grandeprato.it<br />
La casa di Cecchina Affittacamere<br />
Via dei Praticelli, 1<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 633408<br />
lacasadicecchina@katamail.com<br />
La Castellina Affittacamere<br />
Via San Lorenzo, 8<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 64786<br />
0571 684910<br />
Monastero di S. Benedetto<br />
Via delle Monache, 17<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 631489<br />
Parrocchia Santa Maria della Marca<br />
Piazza A Grandi, 38<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: parish priest 0571 634210<br />
Tagliaferri Grazia Affittacamere<br />
Via di Cambiano Alto, 12<br />
Cambiano<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino<br />
Tel: 0571 672324<br />
Fax: 0571 672115<br />
131
132<br />
Casale<br />
Agriturismo di Fonti<br />
Via S.Martino, 35/46<br />
San Martino a Maiano<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: 0571 669439 - Fax: 0571 669437<br />
www.agricoladifonti.it<br />
Agriturismo Tenuta di Sticciano<br />
Via di Sticciano, 207<br />
Fiano<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: 0571 669032<br />
Fax: 0571 669422<br />
www.tenutadisticciano.it<br />
Agriturismo Villa Il Bacìo<br />
Via del Pino, 703<br />
Il Bacìo<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: 055 609409<br />
Fax: 055 609409<br />
www.fattoriabacio.com<br />
1.9km North-East of Casale<br />
Chiesa di San Gaudenzio a Ruballa<br />
Via del Pino<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: Parrocchia S. Donato a Lucardo, from<br />
which the church depends 0571 669125<br />
a 1,5km a Nord-Est di Casale<br />
Chiesa San Martino a Maiano<br />
Via S.Martino<br />
Maiano<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: parish priest Don Elio Agostini<br />
0571 668054<br />
Villa La Poggiolaia Casa Vacanza<br />
Via del Pino<br />
Il Bacìo, Sammozzano<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: 0571 669695<br />
paola@poggiolaia.it<br />
www.poggiolaia.it<br />
Apartments 2.9 km North-East of Casale<br />
Certaldo<br />
Casa Chianti Ostello<br />
Casenuove, 77<br />
Fiano<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Fattoria Bassetto Ostello<br />
Via delle Città, 4<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Il Pianigiano B&B<br />
Via Piano di Sotto, 89<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
MSN Relais Fattoria Bacio Ostello<br />
Via del Pino, 703<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Parrocchia S. Tommaso Apostolo<br />
Via XX Settembre, 6<br />
50052 Certaldo<br />
Tel: parish priest 0571 668054<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Agriturismo La Moraia<br />
Talciona, 37<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
B&B Antico Podere Il Bugnolo<br />
Canonica, 5<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Borgo di Talciona Affittacamere<br />
Talciona, 18<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 0577 989087 - 347 1987331<br />
maridatalciona@yahoo.it<br />
Casa ai Carfini Affittacamere<br />
Strolla, 5<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 347 3217165<br />
info@casaaicarfini.com<br />
www.casaaicarfini.com<br />
Garden House B&B<br />
Orneto, 6<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 0577 988005 - 347 6151070<br />
Migliorni Fernanda Affittacamere<br />
Piazza Calatafimi, 9<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 0577 938671<br />
0577 980206<br />
Poggioagrilli Casa Vacanza<br />
Poggiagrilli, 23<br />
Gavignano<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
poggiagrilli@yahoo.it<br />
www.poggiagrilli.it<br />
Santuario Francescano<br />
di San Lucchese<br />
Via San Lucchese<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 0577 936219<br />
0577 930577<br />
www.sanlucchese.org<br />
Santuario Romituzzo<br />
Via Burresi, 17<br />
53036 Poggibonsi<br />
Tel: 0577 938071<br />
www.romituzzo.it
Monteriggioni<br />
Casa del Clero Sant’Ansano<br />
Via Montarioso, 35<br />
53035 Monteriggioni<br />
Tel: 0577 596078<br />
Casa per ferie S. Maria Assunta<br />
Castello di Monteriggioni<br />
Piazza Roma, 23<br />
53035 Monteriggioni<br />
Tel: 0577 304214<br />
Cell: 335 6651581<br />
casaferiesma@yahoo.it<br />
www.monteriggioniturismo.it<br />
Parrocchia di Cristo Re<br />
Piazza Cristo Re, 1<br />
53035 Monteriggioni<br />
Tel: 0577 304214 - Cell: 335 6651581<br />
casaferiesma@yahoo.it<br />
Villa Montarioso<br />
Via Montarioso, 35<br />
53035 Monteriggioni<br />
Siena<br />
Accoglienza Santa Luisa<br />
Via San Girolamo, 8<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 284377<br />
Alma Domus<br />
Santuario Santa Caterina<br />
Via Camporegio, 31<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 44177<br />
Fax: 0577 47601<br />
Caritas Affittacamere<br />
Via della Diana, 4<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 280643<br />
caritas@carita-sfiera.org<br />
www.caritas-siena.org<br />
Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi<br />
P.za A. Manzoni, 8<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 222633<br />
Casa per ferie Istituto<br />
Maria de’ Gori<br />
Via dei Servi, 31<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 221076<br />
Fax: 0577 221298<br />
Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto<br />
Via del Lecceto, 6<br />
53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 349393<br />
Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio<br />
Via Fiorentina, 89 - 53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 52212<br />
siena@ostellionline.org<br />
www.ostelloguidoriccio.com<br />
Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII<br />
Via Montarioso, 35 - 53011 Siena<br />
Tel: 0577 587011<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
APT Florence<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Via Cavour 1r<br />
Tel: 055 290832 - 055 290833<br />
info1@Florenceturismo.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30<br />
a.m.-6.30 p.m., Sundays and holidays<br />
8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />
www.Florenceturismo.it<br />
Tourist Information Office Lastra a Signa<br />
Kiosk in Piazza Stazione<br />
Via L. Cadorna, 1- 50055 Lastra a Signa<br />
Tel: 055 8725770<br />
Fax: 055 8727933<br />
ufficioturistico@comune.lastra-a-signa.fi.it<br />
UPT Montelupo Fiorentino<br />
via Baccio Sinibaldi, 43<br />
Tel: 0571 518993<br />
Fax: 0571 911421<br />
ufficioturistico@museomontelupo.it<br />
“Le Terre del Rinascimento”<br />
Intermunicipal Tourist Information Office<br />
Via della Torre, 11<br />
50050 Vinci (Florence)<br />
Tel 0571 568012 - Fax 0571 567930<br />
www.terredelrinascimento.it<br />
terredelrinascimento@comune.vinci.fi.it<br />
Tourist and Culture Office Municipality<br />
of Empoli<br />
P.zza Farinata degli Uberti<br />
50053 Empoli (Florence)<br />
Tel 0571 757729 - Fax 0571757740<br />
cultura@comune.empoli.fi.it<br />
Hours: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays<br />
and Fridays 9 a.m.-12 p.m.; Tuesdays<br />
and Thursdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />
U.R.P. Information Point Municipality<br />
of Empoli<br />
Via G. del Papa 41<br />
50053 Empoli (Florence)<br />
Tel 0571 757622 - Fax 055 0571 980033<br />
www.comune.empoli.fi.it<br />
www.empolese-valdelsa.it<br />
urp@comune.empoli.fi.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.-<br />
1.30 p.m./2.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.;<br />
Saturdays 8 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />
133
134<br />
Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />
of Castelfiorentino<br />
c/o Stazione FFSS - Via Ridolfi, 1<br />
50051 Castelfiorentino (Florence)<br />
Tel e Fax 0571 629049<br />
www.comune.castelfiorentino.fi.it<br />
infocastello@libero.it<br />
Winter hours (from mid-October to 1 April):<br />
Every day 10 a.m.-12 p.m./4 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />
Summer hours: every day 9 a.m.-12.30<br />
p.m./3.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.<br />
Tourist Information Office of Certaldo<br />
Piazza Masini, c/o Stazione FFSS<br />
(In the premises of the former goods yard)<br />
50051 Certaldo (Florence)<br />
Tel: 0571 656721 - Fax: 0571 627531<br />
www.comune.certaldo.fi.it<br />
info.turismo@comune.certaldo.fi.it<br />
Hours (from the week before Easter until<br />
mid-October): 9 a.m.-1 p.m./3.30 p.m.-7<br />
p.m.; (from mid-October to 31 December):<br />
10 a.m.-12 p.m./3.30 p.m.-5.30 p.m.<br />
Pro Loco Certaldo<br />
Via Boccaccio 16<br />
50052 Certaldo (Florence)<br />
Tel. 0571 652730<br />
www.prolococertaldo.it<br />
segreteria@prolococertaldo.it<br />
Summer hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30<br />
p.m.-7 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings<br />
Winter hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30<br />
p.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings<br />
Tourist Information Poggibonsi<br />
Piazza Mazzini, 6<br />
Tel: 0577 935113 - Fax: 0577 982509<br />
www.terresiena.it<br />
poggibonsi@vacanzesenesi.it<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
of Monteriggioni<br />
P.za Roma, 23<br />
Tel: 0577 304834 - 0577 573213<br />
Fax: 0577304834<br />
skype: ufficioturisticomonteriggioni<br />
info@monteriggioniturismo.it<br />
APT Siena<br />
Piazza del Campo 56<br />
Tel: 0577 280551 - Fax 0577:270676<br />
aptsiena@siena.turismo.toscana.it<br />
Events and fairs<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Bartolomeo<br />
(24 August)<br />
Barberino Medievale (end of May)<br />
Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte<br />
Feast of San Michele Arcangelo<br />
(last Sunday in September)<br />
Castelfiorentino<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Santa Verdiana<br />
(first week of June)<br />
Palio dei Rioni (third Sunday of June)<br />
Certaldo<br />
Feast of the Beata Giulia<br />
(first Sunday of September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso<br />
(3 July)<br />
Certaldo, Parco di Canonica<br />
Festa degli arcieri (1 May)<br />
Empoli<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea<br />
(30 November)<br />
Celebration for Corpus Domini<br />
(14 June)<br />
Volo del ciuco (June)<br />
Festa della Stagione Bona (April)<br />
Lastra a Signa<br />
Feast of Sant’Anna (July)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino<br />
(11 November)<br />
Lastra a Signa, Loc. Malmantile<br />
Medieval Festival in Malmantile (May)<br />
Montelupo<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />
Evangelista (27 December)<br />
Montelupo, Loc.Turbone<br />
Bosco in festa<br />
(last weekend of October)<br />
Montespertoli<br />
Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea<br />
(30 November)<br />
Itinerant Via Crucis (Easter)<br />
Monteriggioni<br />
Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint,<br />
Maria Vergine (8 September)<br />
Festa dei Rioni e Torneo del Barilotto<br />
(settembre)<br />
Poggibonsi<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lucchese<br />
(28 April)<br />
Siena<br />
Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May)<br />
Palio della Madonna di Provenzano<br />
(2 July)<br />
Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August)<br />
Santa Lucia (13 December)<br />
Sant’Ansano (1 December)
4 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
the pilgrim route to Rome<br />
in the 13 th century<br />
135<br />
Until at least the end of the 12 th century, the importance of the<br />
road connecting Florence and Bologna that crossed the Mugello<br />
was probably modest. The main artery used for going to and from<br />
the Po River Valley continued to be the Via Francigena, as evidenced<br />
by documentary sources that inevitably mention the route<br />
through the Apennine pass of Monte Bardone (Cisa). Yet, as mentioned<br />
previously, in the 13 th century Florence got hold of the main<br />
communication axis with Padania, the Po valley, imposing one of<br />
the roads that connected with Bologna as a route over the Apennines.<br />
Originally, this road was used to reach the upper Santerno<br />
valley and only later was it extended to Bologna. Beyond San Piero<br />
a Sieve, the road passed through the parishes of Sant’Agata and<br />
Cornacchiaia, using the pass in the Mugello known as the Osteria<br />
Bruciata, which was later replaced by the Giogo Pass.
4 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13 th century<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Ceppeto (Monte Morello)<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
136<br />
THE ITINERARY<br />
Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
End point: Sant’Agata<br />
Elevation gain:<br />
1200<br />
1000<br />
800<br />
600<br />
400<br />
200<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
Horticultural Garden<br />
Stibbert Museum<br />
Parish Church of Cercina<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Buonsollazzo Abbey<br />
Trebbio Castle<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
00
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 108.7<br />
Distance (local itineraries): km 16.9<br />
Level of physical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello)<br />
Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra,<br />
Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi,<br />
Parish Church of Cercina<br />
Distance: km 15.6 - Page 142<br />
Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Waypoints: Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno,<br />
Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />
Distance: km 15 - Page 150<br />
Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata<br />
Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve,<br />
Gabbiano<br />
Distance: km 23 - Page 154<br />
Leg 3 Local Itineraries:<br />
Lake of Bilancino – Castle of Cafaggiolo<br />
Distance: km 8.5 - Page 158<br />
Scarperia<br />
Distance: km 8.4 - Page 158<br />
Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola<br />
Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />
Distance: km 17.5 - Page 164<br />
Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio<br />
Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala<br />
Distance: km 13.8 - Page 170<br />
Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass<br />
Waypoints: Cà degli Arrighi<br />
Distance: km 10.4 - Page 174<br />
Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata<br />
Waypoints: Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio<br />
Distance: km 13.4 - Page 178<br />
137<br />
The tour takes place mostly on trails , dirt and gravel roads (55%), and asphalt<br />
secondary roads (45%). There are particularly demanding hilly legs (Ceppeto<br />
– Monte Senario; Sant’Agata – Firenzuola, Firenzuola – Covigliaio). The route<br />
unwinds amidst landscapes of great beauty, with native broadleaf and conifer<br />
woods that were planted at the start of the last century.<br />
We cross two natural sites of Community Importance: Monte Morello and the<br />
Firenzuola Basin. Attention must be paid along the short sections that go along<br />
provincial and/or local roads, and the rules of the road Code regarding pedestrian<br />
movement on out-of-town roads must be followed<br />
Note: Undertaking this itinerary requires orientation skills, experience, and<br />
knowledge of mountainous terrain and adequate physical training for the walk,<br />
as well as appropriate footwear and equipment. The hiking stretches follow CAI<br />
trails almost exclusively, and so they are usually marked; the only exception is<br />
between Covigliaio and Passeggere. Water is available in the villages and fountains<br />
along the route. From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia<br />
Romagna through the Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or<br />
continue our journey in a southerly direction that takes us back to Sant’Agata.
4 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13 th century<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
138<br />
Hospice of San Gallo and the beginning of the Via Bolognese in the Catena Map
BIKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 108.7<br />
Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: From Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra,<br />
Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi,<br />
Parish Church of Cercina, Ceppeto, Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno,<br />
Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />
Distance: km 30.6<br />
Page 142<br />
Leg 2: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata<br />
Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve,<br />
Gabbiano<br />
Distance: km 23<br />
Page 154<br />
Leg 3: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola<br />
Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />
Distance: km 17.5<br />
Page 164<br />
Leg 4: Firenzuola – Futa Pass<br />
Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala, Covigliaio, Cà degli Arrighi<br />
Distance: km 24.2<br />
Page 170<br />
Leg 5: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata<br />
Waypoints: Passo dell’Osteri Bruciata, Riarsiccio<br />
Distance: km 13.4<br />
Page 178<br />
The route alternates between asphalt and gravel roads, with slightly bumpy and<br />
irregular stretches for average cyclists (MC class). Except for the section between<br />
Passeggere and Covigliaio, the path is usually well-marked and identifiable.<br />
The landscape is extremely picturesque, and is characterized by both the typical<br />
central Apennine mountain ecosystems, with oak and chestnut forests and<br />
planted pine groves, and by the farmed hills of the Mugello valley and the<br />
mountain pastures of the Firenzuola basin.<br />
Note: The course presents technical difficulties in some parts and requires good<br />
physical training. The more technically demanding stretches are found in Leg 5,<br />
from the Futa Pass to Osteria Bruciata, and near Camporomano (shortly after<br />
the Abbey of Buonsollazzo), above all, for the limited width of the path. Orientation<br />
problems may arise along Leg 5 between Covigliaio and Passeggere<br />
because of the absence of CAI signage. The course is physically very demanding<br />
because of the presence of some major climbs (the Monte Senario, Firenzuola,<br />
and Futa Pass legs). It is preferable to use a very sturdy mountain- or city-bike on<br />
this route. The stretches suitable for racing bikes are only those around Florence<br />
and those on the Mugello plain. There are no particular problems associated<br />
with the availability of water as there are fountains and towns along the way.<br />
From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia Romagna through the<br />
Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or to proceed on our<br />
journey, which takes us back in a southerly direction to Sant’Agata.<br />
139
A Disputed Route<br />
The succession of measures undertaken by the Florentine Republic<br />
to increase the route’s efficiency – bridge construction,<br />
rebuilding of road sections – could not avoid creating conflicts<br />
with the powerful feudal house of the Ubaldini family, whose<br />
possessions were distributed on both sides of the Tuscan-Emilian<br />
Apennines. The foundation of the two terrenuove or towns of<br />
Scarperia and Firenzuola must be seen in the context of the ageold<br />
struggle against these Mugello landowners who were finally<br />
crushed around the mid-14 th century – the same years in which<br />
the new road that directly connected, via the Giogo Pass, the<br />
two terrenuove mentioned above was opened. Significantly, on<br />
the occasion of the foundation of Firenzuola, it was stated, “in<br />
qua et per quam terram Firenzuole sit et esse debeat una via<br />
que vadat versus Florentiam et recte versus Bononiam” (Public<br />
Records Office of Florence, Chapters, reg.32 c.71r.)<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w with Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve<br />
140<br />
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A Road Towards Europe<br />
The new road connection would become the important transit<br />
conduit between northern and central Italy, increasingly used by<br />
merchants and travelers but especially by pilgrims going to Rome.<br />
The latter, especially those arriving in Italy from the countries of<br />
Central Europe, crossed the Alps and arrived in the Po River Valley.<br />
From there, they took up the Via Emilia, proceeding to Bologna<br />
and then took the road to Florence. Then following the roads to<br />
the south that linked the city on the Arno to the Via Francigena<br />
(the Strada Sanese and the Via Romana), pilgrims going to Rome<br />
rejoined the ancient route to Rome in Siena or Poggibonsi.<br />
But the road that connected Florence and Bologna was often<br />
also the route used by those Florentine pilgrims who wanted<br />
to visit the other two destinations of peregrinationes maiores:<br />
Santiago de Compostela and Jerusalem. In their memoirs some<br />
Jacobean pilgrims who began their long walk from Florence, indeed<br />
described the route across the Apennines leading to Bologna<br />
from where they reached Borgo San Donnino via the Via<br />
Emilia whence the Via Francigena was taken up. And also those<br />
who were going to the Holy Land passed by Bologna in order to<br />
reach Venice, the city that had become the customary embarcation<br />
point for the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the 14 th century.<br />
Hospice of the Ruota, on the old Via Bolognese<br />
141
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
LEG 1:<br />
PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence)<br />
CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO)<br />
Ceppeto<br />
(Monte Morello)<br />
Continuing of LEG 1<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
Fondi<br />
see page 150<br />
Il Carretello<br />
Park at Villa Demidoff<br />
Pieve di Cercina<br />
Montorsoli<br />
Il Casale<br />
Piazza-Canonica<br />
di Cercina<br />
Montorsoli<br />
Trespiano<br />
Piazza di Careggi<br />
Santa Marta<br />
La Pietra<br />
142<br />
Park at the<br />
Stibbert Museum<br />
Horticultural Garden<br />
Porta San Gallo (Firenze)<br />
Starting point of LEG 1<br />
A section along the route
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra, Piazza di Careggi,<br />
Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi, Parish Church of Cercina<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 560<br />
Distance: km 15.6<br />
Travel time: 5h20’<br />
This leg goes along asphalt and stone-paved roads in an area around Florence.<br />
It is a well-marked route that does not present orientation problems.<br />
Note: Attention must be paid to road traffic on the stretches of narrow roads<br />
encountered. This leg becomes physically demanding at the park of the Stibbert<br />
Museum when the climb to Ceppeto starts.<br />
Transport:<br />
Florence<br />
Montorsoli<br />
To be seen:<br />
Horticultural Garden<br />
Park at Villa La Pietra<br />
Park at Villa Demidoff<br />
143<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
The Community of Pellegrino<br />
“Pellegrino” was a village located outside the 14 th -century walls of Florence<br />
that extended on the right of the Via Bolognese just outside Porta<br />
San Gallo. It took its name from the existence of numerous accommodation<br />
structures there for pilgrims to Rome coming from the north<br />
who stopped in Florence on their way. With the early 19th-century<br />
administrative reforms, the whole Pellegrino area and the surrounding<br />
villages of Careggi, Montughi, Novoli and others were merged into<br />
a single Community, which took the name of Pellegrino da Careggi.<br />
Later eliminated during the period when Florence was the capital, the<br />
community was incorporated into the municipality of Florence. Toponymic<br />
evidence of its existence remains in the name of a minor road<br />
that branches off from the Via Bolognese, called Via del Pellegrino.<br />
Coat-of-arms of the Hospice of Gesù Pellegrino<br />
144
The starting point of our journey along the Via Bolognese is Piazza<br />
della Libertà, formerly known by the name of Piazza San<br />
Gallo which took its name from the important Florentine hospice<br />
that had once stood there, and which was destroyed at the time<br />
of the 1529 siege of Florence.<br />
The medieval Via Bolognese started from the city gate that was<br />
also called San Gallo. The initial stretch is by now a city street,<br />
along which a whole succession of buildings and places recall<br />
the pilgrims’ transit. There were hospices near the Church of<br />
Santa Maria del Suffragio (linked to the mansion of the Order<br />
of Saint James of Altopascio) and where today the Villas Spalletti<br />
and Spedaluzzo are located.<br />
In order to get around the traffic problems that characterize this<br />
whole area of the city, our route begins from Piazza della Libertà,<br />
near the ancient route. From the square, we suggest taking Via<br />
Paolo Toscanelli to Viale Milton and crossing the Mugnone on<br />
the pedestrian bridge there to get to Via XX Settembre. We cross<br />
the street and enter the Horticultural Garden where we can<br />
admire the large 19 th -century hothouse that sheltered the plants<br />
from sub-tropical countries studied by the Società di Orticoltura<br />
Toscana, established in 1852 by the Accademia dei Georgofili.<br />
On the other side of the park is Via Trento, from which a superb<br />
panoramic view of the city can be enjoyed. We continue along<br />
the street as far as Via Trieste, which leads us into Via Vittorio<br />
Emanuele II. After a short stretch, we turn right into Via Stibbert,<br />
becoming Via Montughi, which takes us back to the Via<br />
Bolognese at La Pietra whose name is linked to the presence of<br />
The Horticultural Garden of Florence<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1<br />
145<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
0.5 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Horticultural Garden<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Stibbert Museum and Park<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
La Pietra<br />
6.5 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Montorsoli<br />
Parish Church of Cercina<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h05’<br />
1.1 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Castiglioni<br />
Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />
a Ceppeto<br />
1.6 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
www.vieromee.it
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1<br />
a milestone that indicated the first mile from Porta San Gallo. In<br />
La Pietra, there is a large tabernacle with a 15 th -century fresco<br />
that depicts the Madonna enthroned surrounded by saints and<br />
two pilgrims’ hospices dedicated to St. Nicholas and St Jerome<br />
that were a little further on, in the village of La Lastra where we<br />
find the hospice of the Ruota, a small late-Romanesque building<br />
with a single rectangular nave.<br />
To avoid the dangers related to traffic, we abandon at La Pietra<br />
the ancient route of Via Bolognese that today follows the state<br />
road 65, and enter a secondary road on the left (Via della Pietra)<br />
that leads us to Piazza di Careggi. From here, we take Via Terzollina<br />
that runs to the right of the stream of the same name and<br />
start to climb the hilly slopes of Monte Morello. We pass through<br />
Canonica di Cercina and come to the Romanesque Parish<br />
Church of Sant’Andrea in Cercina, which was a pilgrimage<br />
destination in the past because of the popular veneration for an<br />
ancient and precious wooden statue of the Madonna kept there.<br />
From the Cercina parish church, we follow a secondary road until<br />
we reach Castiglioni, where there is a villa built on a 13 th -century<br />
tower house, and a church dedicated to St. Michael, formerly<br />
suffragan of the parish church. We then continue towards Via<br />
dei Colli Alti passing near the forest station. We now reach the<br />
Oratory of San Jacopo a Ceppeto after traveling a short stretch<br />
of Via dei Colli Alti.<br />
The Park at Villa La Pietra<br />
146<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
0.5 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Horticultural Garden<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Stibbert Museum and Park<br />
0.9 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
La Pietra<br />
6.5 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Montorsoli<br />
Parish Church of Cercina<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 1h05’<br />
1.1 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Castiglioni<br />
Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />
a Ceppeto<br />
1.6 km<br />
Time: 45’
DEVOTION<br />
Cercina, A Place Chosen by Mary<br />
According to tradition, it was believed that the image of the Madonna<br />
of Cercina was left at the church by a cardinal heading to<br />
France in 1285. An ancient account recounts that the sacred image<br />
(a 13 th -century, polychrome wooden statue), was loaded on<br />
a mule, along with other household goods, and that once it had<br />
arrived in the parish of Cercina “on the road that leads to Bologna,<br />
at Montorsoli, the mule stopped as if riveted [to the spot],<br />
in such a way that even the violence of all the carters could not<br />
move it… the cardinal and his whole court followed the mule in<br />
astonishment, until it stopped at the church” (V. FINESCHI, Notizie<br />
istoriche riguardanti l’antica e miracolosa figura di Maria Vergine<br />
situata nella chiesa di Sant’Andrea a Cercina, Firenze 1795, p.62).<br />
The site was recognized as the one chosen by Mary as her shelter<br />
and “as soon as [the statue was] unloaded, the mule fell to the<br />
ground as if in the act of worship”. From that time on, there was<br />
such an uninterrupted pilgrimage to the wooden statue of the<br />
Madonna that in 1435 a high prelate (Cardinal Lodovico di Varambona)<br />
issued a Breve conceding special indulgences to all visitors.<br />
The Parish Church of Cercina<br />
147
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Park at Villa Demidoff<br />
Along the Via Bolognese pilgrim route, climbing towards Monte<br />
Morello, we reach Via dei Colli Alti, next to the forest station.<br />
From here, we turn right and go east on Via dei Colli Alti. After<br />
3 km, we come to the village of Pratolino where we can visit the<br />
historical park of Villa Demidoff. In 1568 Francesco I de’ Medici<br />
acquired the Pratolino holding and charged Buontalenti with the<br />
task of making it a residence for his second wife Bianca Cappello.<br />
The villa was located in the middle of a 40-hectare park in which<br />
there were complex water jets with automata, water tricks, and<br />
monumental fountains embellished by the presence of ancient<br />
statues, mother of pearl, semi-precious stones and marbles. Of<br />
these, only the statue of the Colossus of the Apennines by Giambologna<br />
remains, immersed in the park where a rich and varied<br />
flora can be enjoyed. The park offers numerous cultural and musical<br />
activities, including RURALIA, an event in May that evokes<br />
an agricultural fair from the last century.<br />
The Colossus of the Apennines by Giambologna, the park at Villa Demidoff<br />
148
<strong>Vie</strong>w towards Cercina from Castiglione<br />
149<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
LEG 2:<br />
CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO)<br />
SANTUARIO DEL MONTE SENARIO<br />
Carzola di Sotto<br />
Via Bolognese<br />
Il Trebbio<br />
Sanctuary<br />
of Monte<br />
Senario<br />
Causelle<br />
Bivigliano<br />
Marcherello<br />
Viliani<br />
Paterno<br />
Ferraglia<br />
Le Case<br />
Pratello<br />
Fontebuona<br />
Pescina<br />
Monte Morello<br />
150<br />
Ceppeto<br />
Continuing of LEG 1<br />
see page 142<br />
Park at Villa Demidoff<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Mugello countryside
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno, Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Difficult<br />
Climb: m 700<br />
Distance: km 15<br />
Travel time: 5h15’<br />
This leg goes along on both small asphalt roads and on forest roads with a<br />
gravel road bed.<br />
The path is well-marked also within the Monte Morello reserve. The leg proceeds<br />
within the Monte Morello Site of Community Importance (SCI), through a<br />
landscape characterized by turkey and downy oak woods planted at the beginning<br />
of last century. In the distance, the woods of Arizona cypress, Atlas cedar,<br />
and Austrian, Corsican, and Turkish pine are also visible, which were planted<br />
during the same period. Picturesque waterfalls are present a short distance from<br />
the village of Paterno.<br />
Note: This is one of the most challenging legs, from a physical point of view,<br />
along the route. Attention should be paid to road traffic along the provincial<br />
and regional roads.<br />
Transport:<br />
Monte Senario<br />
To be seen:<br />
Park at Villa Demidoff<br />
Monte Morello, Site of Community Importance<br />
Convent of Monte Senario<br />
151<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />
Monte Morello<br />
A Site of Community Importance (SCI), Monte Morello covers<br />
over 4000 hectares. Of scenic and recreational significance, the<br />
remaining open areas play a strategic role in providing nesting<br />
and wintering places for endangered bird species. Today the<br />
mountain enjoys a rich fauna composed of wild boar, fox, deer,<br />
hare, roe deer, pheasant and other animals – vipers are not uncommon<br />
– with a thick vegetation of pine, oak, cypress and silver<br />
fir. Of importance is also the presence of such amphibians<br />
as the Spectacled Salamander. There are numerous water springs<br />
(Seppi, Ciliegio, etc.), although some have disappeared or their<br />
capacity has been reduced because of the excavations carried out<br />
under the mountain for the high-speed trains. In addition, there<br />
has been the gradual desiccation of many black pine woods, an<br />
effect of the climatic trends in recent years coupled with the exponential<br />
spread of bark beetles, the vectors of blue stain fungus<br />
(Leptographium sp.) that have led to their foliage turning red until<br />
completely dehydrated.<br />
Monte Morello remains the Florentines’ “mountain” as they go<br />
there to walk, hike and picnic in the summer or to look for mushrooms<br />
and wild asparagus.<br />
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />
152<br />
The Convent of Monte Senario<br />
At the top of Monte Senario is the convent of the Order of the<br />
Servants of Mary. The Servite congregation came into existence<br />
here in 1233, on the initiative of seven noble Florentines (the “seven<br />
founding brothers”) who retreated to the mount in prayer.<br />
From their coenobitic experience, the Servants of Mary – as the<br />
followers of the new order were called – were born and they<br />
had considerable success in 13 th -century Tuscan and Italian society.<br />
The original convent grew over the years and was completely<br />
rebuilt in the late 16 th century at the behest of Grand Duke Ferdinando<br />
I. Subsequently, it was further modified until it assumed<br />
its current shape. Along the quiet paths scattered about the thick<br />
pine forest surrounding the monastery and covering the summit<br />
of Monte Senario are numerous signs of the order’s religious history,<br />
all within walking distance. There are the cells, caves and<br />
chapels dedicated to various saints and blessed souls belonging<br />
to the Servite congregation. From the panoramic terrace that surrounds<br />
the church and the monastic premises, we can enjoy a<br />
magnificent view over the Arno valley and the Mugello.
From the Oratory of San Jacopo in Ceppeto, we follow a CAI<br />
path that leads us – passing through Pescina – to the road that<br />
goes to the small village of Paterno. We continue and we soon<br />
come to the state road that we follow for a short stretch in a<br />
southerly direction. Then, we take the road on the left and pass<br />
through the village of Sommavilla until we arrive in the village of<br />
Bivigliano, which stretches at the foot of Monte Senario, where<br />
a foot path begins that leads to the sanctuary of the same name.<br />
Convent of Monte Senario<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2<br />
153<br />
Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />
a Ceppeto<br />
4.7 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Paterno<br />
2.6 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese<br />
4.8 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
Bivigliano<br />
2.9 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
www.vieromee.it
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
LEG 3:<br />
SANCTUARY OF MONTE SENARIO<br />
SANT’AGATA<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Cafaccio<br />
Santa Maria<br />
Gabbiano<br />
LOCAL ITINERARY<br />
Scarperia<br />
Mogognano<br />
LOCAL ITINERARY<br />
Lake Bilancino<br />
Castle of<br />
Cafaggiolo<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
Castle of Trebbio<br />
Ischieti<br />
Tagliaferro<br />
Campomigliaio<br />
Abbey of Buonsollazzo<br />
154<br />
Vaglia<br />
Il Trebbio<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 2<br />
Sanctuary<br />
of Monte<br />
Senario<br />
Towards the Mugello
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Castle of Trebbio, San Piero a Sieve,<br />
Gabbiano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 290<br />
Distance: km 23<br />
Travel time: 6h25’<br />
The route on dirt roads and paths is well-marked, except near Camporomano,<br />
shortly after Buonsollazzo Abbey, where the CAI signs affixed to tree trunks are<br />
missing. This leg requires orientation skills and good physical training.<br />
Note: Once in Trebbio, you can take the local route for Lake Bilancino and<br />
Castle of Cafaggiolo or remain on the main road and take the dirt track to the<br />
right following the CAI 19 signs as far as Ischieti, which is found at the end of<br />
the first local itinerary. Once in San Piero a Sieve, however, you can turn right<br />
in Via Calimara from Piazza della Colonna, and take the second local itinerary<br />
that leads to Scarperia.<br />
After the Abbey of Buonsollazzo, heading down towards Camporomano, cyclists<br />
are advised to proceed on foot to avoid falls.<br />
Transport:<br />
Monte Senario<br />
Scarperia<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
To be seen:<br />
Castle of Trebbio<br />
Medicean Fortress of San Martino – San Piero a Sieve<br />
Convent of Bosco ai Frati<br />
155<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2<br />
156<br />
From the sanctuary of Monte Senario, we continue our itinerary<br />
and we pass by the Abbey of Buonsollazzo, which is said<br />
to have been built before the year 1000 by Marchese Ugo di<br />
Toscana, in the place where he had the vision that converted<br />
him to the Christian life. The abbey later passed to a Cistercian<br />
congregation and then to the Trappist monks, to whom we owe<br />
the 18 th -century layout of the complex.<br />
After passing the abbey, we continue along the path until we<br />
come to the state road at Tagliaferro, a village remembered as<br />
having many inns and hostels in addition to a pilgrims’ hospice<br />
dedicated to Saint Lawrence, recorded since 1221.<br />
We cross the Via Bolognese and take the road that, by way of<br />
Uccellare and Spugnole, leads to Trebbio Castle, the ancestral<br />
home of the Medici. We continue on as far as Ischieti skirting<br />
the Fortress of San Martino, built in the second half of the<br />
16 th century by Grand Duke Cosimo I, on the hill overlooking<br />
San Piero a Sieve.<br />
Leaving the town of San Piero, we can continue by way of Gabbiano-Sant’Agata<br />
or by way of the local itinerary that leads to<br />
Scarperia.<br />
Beyond the Giogo Pass, the new road (the present state road<br />
503 follows the same course) went down into the Santerno Valley<br />
and reached Firenzuola, the other “terranuova” founded<br />
by the Florentine Republic in 1332 precisely because of the new<br />
road which for centuries would channel pilgrims who came from<br />
the North and were headed to Rome. The route that we suggest,<br />
instead, broadly corresponds to the road to Bologna, which preceded<br />
that of the Giogo Pass and crossed the Apennines at the<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass and, albeit via a longer route, also reaches<br />
Firenzuola and the Santerno Valley.<br />
Then from Scarperia we pass through Magognano (near which is<br />
the 14 th -century Franciscan convent of San Bonaventura in Bosco<br />
ai Frati with its wooden crucifix from the school of Donatello) and<br />
Gabbiano and return to the main itinerary that leads to the village<br />
of Sant’Agata, built around the homonymous parish church, a<br />
beautiful Romanesque church with a nave and two aisles divided<br />
by tall circular pillars that directly support the wooden frame of<br />
the roof, as in the hallenkirchen in northern countries.<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />
3.6 km<br />
Time: 55’<br />
Buonsollazzo Abbey<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h05’<br />
Tagliaferro<br />
2.7 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Castle of Trebbio<br />
2.8 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Fortress of San Martino<br />
1 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
8.6 km<br />
Time: 2h25’
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
San Piero a Sieve was the first major town encountered on this<br />
road. An ancient market town recorded as early as the 12 th century,<br />
San Piero rose at the point where the road crossed the Sieve<br />
River and, like all river-crossing settlements, had many commercial<br />
(inns, hotels) and charitable accommodation structures. Among<br />
the latter were the hospice of San Piero a Sieve, which is first recorded<br />
in 1184 and the hospice of San Jacopo a Novoli, documented<br />
in 1335. The first is now the oratory of the brotherhood<br />
placed before the Parish Church of San Piero a Sieve on whose<br />
counter-façade is an inscription that refers to the reconstruction<br />
of the hospice carried out in 1275 by a Magister Panicia commissioned<br />
by Gianibuonus.<br />
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
Notes along the Via Bolognese<br />
An anonymous Florentine pilgrim, who went on pilgrimage to<br />
Santiago de Compostela in 1477, thus describes the first part of<br />
the Via Bolognese: “...at first we left Florence, a beautiful and<br />
noble City, well populated and full of artists; the first waypoint is<br />
five miles away in Ucciellatoio. Outside the aforementioned City,<br />
there is an inn called the Ucciellatoio. From there, one reaches<br />
Vaglia, which has many houses and two inns. San Piero a Sieve,<br />
many houses and three inns”.<br />
157<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Castle of Trebbio<br />
Built around the mid-15 th century by Michelozzo at the behest of<br />
Cosimo de’ Medici, mainly for agricultural purposes, it was used<br />
as a hunting residence by the Medici. A 15 th -century Medici coatof-arms<br />
is visible at one of the entrances and there is an ancient<br />
well in the courtyard. The current garden is the result of several<br />
modifications: the only element remaining from the Renaissance<br />
is the grape-vine pergola. A recent garden – partly formal, with<br />
boxwood and roses, and partly informal, with various species of<br />
trees and shrubs and a rock garden – surrounds the castle and, in<br />
turn, is surrounded by thick rows of cypress.
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
Leg 3, Local Itineraries:<br />
LAKE BILANCINO<br />
CAFAGGIOLO SCARPERIA<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Cafaccio<br />
Santa Maria<br />
Gabbiano<br />
Scarperia<br />
Lake Bilancino<br />
Mogognano<br />
Castle of<br />
Cafaggiolo<br />
LOCAL<br />
ITINERARY<br />
LOCAL ITINERARY<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
Castle of Trebbio<br />
Ischieti<br />
Casenuove<br />
Tagliaferro<br />
Campomigliaio<br />
MAIN<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Abbey of Buonsollazzo<br />
158<br />
Vaglia<br />
Il Trebbio<br />
Sanctuary<br />
of Monte Senario<br />
Castle of Cafaggiolo, San Piero a Sieve
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Descent: m 160<br />
Distance: km 8.5<br />
Travel time: 2h05’<br />
The itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part on<br />
asphalt roads. The route is well marked.<br />
The tour begins in Trebbio and then heads northwards towards San Giovanni.<br />
Take the right fork a little after a tabernacle at the curve. Continue on Via Trebbio<br />
until it intersects with the asphalted Via San Giovanni in Petroio. We take<br />
the right branch of Via San Giovanni in Petroio and we continue until the junction<br />
with Via G. Nencini. We then head east along the lake, passing through a<br />
tunnel with a bike path until we reach Futa state road 65. We turn right towards<br />
Cafaggiolo. Then we proceed on SR (regional road) 65 towards San Piero a<br />
Sieve until we reach Via Ischieti where we take up the main itinerary again.<br />
To be seen:<br />
Lake Bilancino<br />
The exterior of the castle of Cafaggiolo<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 60<br />
Distance: km 8.4<br />
Travel time: 2h15’<br />
Also this itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part<br />
on asphalt roads with a well-marked route.<br />
The local itinerary to Scarperia starts from San Piero a Sieve heading north<br />
along SP (provincial road) 503. After the bridge over the Sieve River, we turn<br />
right along SP 551 which we follow for about 700 m. Then we turn left into<br />
Via di Fagna, continuing until we come to the homonymous church. From<br />
there, we continue, heading north as far as the junction with SP 503. Turn right<br />
and enter the village of Scarperia. At the crossroads with Via dell’Azzurro, turn<br />
left and go in the direction of Mogognano, skirting the Golf Club dei Medici<br />
as far as the intersection with Via di Gabbiano where we go north to re-join<br />
the main itinerary.<br />
159<br />
Transport:<br />
Scarperia<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
To be seen:<br />
Parish Church of Fagna<br />
Village of Scarperia<br />
Palazzo dei Vicari, Museum of Cutting Tools (Scarperia)
Modern pilgrims along the way<br />
160<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries
NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />
Lake Bilancino<br />
The itinerary from Trebbio Castle heads northwest, passing from<br />
Lake Bilancino near the beaches of Nebbiaia and Sodera, to then<br />
reconnect with the main itinerary in front of Villa Cafaggiolo. Lake<br />
Bilancino is a reservoir of over five square kilometers with about<br />
a 30-km perimeter, formed by a dam whose purpose is to reduce<br />
the risk of flooding (especially for Florence) and to ensure a supply<br />
of drinking water for the valley. The reservoir also produces<br />
electricity. Additionally, in the broad area surrounding the lake,<br />
tourism has been promoted thanks to the recreational activities<br />
offered by the lake, bathing establishment services, sailing, canoeing,<br />
windsurfing, hiking, and hospitality (restaurants, hotels,<br />
and camping sites).<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Cafaggiolo<br />
After passing near Lake Bilancino in the direction of San Piero<br />
a Sieve, we come to the Medicean villa or castle of Cafaggiolo,<br />
which is among those most closely tied to the history of the Medici<br />
family. It was a favorite of Lorenzo the Magnificent who went<br />
there to hunt and it is where he composed the poem “Nencia da<br />
Barberino”, dedicated to a young peasant woman from the area.<br />
The building had belonged to the family since the middle of the<br />
14 th century, and was renovated after 1428 by Michelozzo who<br />
had been commissioned by Cosimo the Elder. In 1864 it was sold<br />
to the Borghese princes who made radical changes to it.<br />
161<br />
Castello di Cafaggiolo
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Scarperia<br />
Scarperia’s original name was Castel Santo Barnaba; it was one<br />
of the first “terrenuove”, or new cities, created by the Florentine<br />
Republic at the beginning of the 14 th century so as to overcome<br />
the last feudal resistance in the Mugello and, at the same time, to<br />
impose the new route of the Via per Bologna that passed through<br />
the Giogo Pass. Inside this “terranuova” several inns were built– a<br />
good twelve were counted at the end of the 14 th century – and two<br />
hospices at the border of the town (the hospice of Sopra and the<br />
hospice of Sotto) as well as that of the Compagnia della Vergine.<br />
Palazzo Pretorio in Scarperia<br />
162
Centuries-old chestnut tree<br />
163<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
Leg 4:<br />
SANT’AGATA<br />
FIRENZUOLA<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Cornacchiaia<br />
Cerro<br />
Roncopiano<br />
Pian de Grilli<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
Riarsiccio<br />
Marcoiano<br />
164<br />
Campisano<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 3<br />
A stretch along the way
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />
Level of technical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
Climb: m 670<br />
Distance: km 17.5<br />
Travel time: 5h45’<br />
The leg goes along dirt roads and trails. The itinerary is generally well-marked,<br />
although in some places, the presence of multiple signs may make orientation<br />
difficult. The first part of the leg is characterized by a landscape of mixed broadleaf<br />
woods that continue as far as the beech tree-lined meadows of the Osteria<br />
Bruciata Pass. We continue along the ridges in the beech and chestnut woods<br />
that alternate with gullies and shrubby areas dominated by broom and juniper.<br />
Note: The leg requires good physical training, especially as regards climbs.<br />
There is a short detour from the main itinerary near Faeto (Parish church of<br />
Cornacchiaia) to visit the small village of Cornacchiaia.<br />
Transport:<br />
Scarperia<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Cornacchiaia<br />
To be seen:<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista Decollato a Cornacchiaia<br />
Firenzuola Basin, Site of Community Importance<br />
Fiorenzuola Fortress<br />
Firenzuola Museum of Pietra Serena<br />
165<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />
The Firenzuola Basin<br />
The Firenzuola Basin is one of the most important areas at a regional<br />
level for the conservation of many endangered species of<br />
birds linked to the traditional agricultural environments (the Ortolan<br />
Bunting, Tawny Pipit, and Quail). Many species of birds of prey<br />
hunt in this area and some of them nest nearby. There are some<br />
watercourses with low shrubs along the banks mainly consisting<br />
of Hippophae rhamnoides, sub-species fluviatilis, which are home<br />
to native fish species typical of unpolluted environments. Of note<br />
among the mammals are the wolf, the wild boar, and the red<br />
squirrel, while among invertebrates, the Callimorpha quadripunctaria<br />
Moth.<br />
This is an area based upon traditional agriculture and rearing of<br />
sheep, whose preservation is dependent on the promotion of adequate<br />
land management plans and policies.<br />
Firenzuola Basin<br />
166
From Sant’Agata, we take the road to Montepoli where a CAI trail<br />
begins that takes us to the Osteria Bruciata Pass, near which<br />
stood the hospice of San Niccolò a Fontemanzina. Although<br />
nothing remains of it today, it was built in 1221 on the public<br />
road to Florence by Berlinghiero di Girolamo and his partner Mannello<br />
de’Galli, two influential figures, both related to the Franciscan<br />
movement. After crossing the pass, the CAI trail continues<br />
towards the bottom of the Santerno Valley, passing through the<br />
town of Faeto and arriving in the village of Cornacchiaia, which<br />
grew up around a rural church too: the Romanesque Parish<br />
Church of San Giovanni Battista, which not by chance recalls<br />
the architectural structure of the parish church of Sant’Agata.<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Agata<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4<br />
167<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
8.6 km<br />
Time: 3h30’<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
San Niccolò in Fontemanzina<br />
4 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Cornacchiaia<br />
4.9 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Firenzuola<br />
www.vieromee.it
From Cornacchiaia, proceeding along the Santerno, we reach<br />
Firenzuola, a village that was full of inns and hostels and had<br />
the two hospices of San Giacomo and of San Francesco.<br />
Other charitable structures ad hospitalitatem et receptionem<br />
pauperum were in prope terram de Firenzuola – as more or less<br />
in all the villages on the road to Bologna where some, albeit<br />
modest, accommodation structures could be found.<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in Cornacchiaia<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4<br />
168<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
8.6 km<br />
Time: 3h30’<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
San Niccolò in Fontemanzina<br />
4 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Cornacchiaia<br />
4.9 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Firenzuola
Porta Bolognese in Firenzuola<br />
169
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
Leg 5:<br />
FIRENZUOLA<br />
COVIGLIAIO<br />
Pietramala<br />
La Castellaccia<br />
La Sela<br />
La Badia<br />
Pagliana<br />
Le Valli<br />
Covigliaio<br />
LEG 4 to<br />
Futa Pass<br />
see page 174<br />
Cagliabati<br />
Riccianico<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 4<br />
Sassiglioni<br />
Capanna<br />
170<br />
A stretch along the itinerary
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Le Valli, Pietramala<br />
Level of technical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 600<br />
Distance: km 13.8<br />
Travel time: 5h<br />
The leg goes along dirt roads and paths. The route is well marked.<br />
Note: Although not long, in this leg there are climbs that require good physical<br />
training. In Pietramala, it is possible to join up again with the paths that lead<br />
to Emilia Romagna, or to continue along our itinerary towards the Futa Pass.<br />
Transport:<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Pietramala<br />
171<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
Our route avoids state road 503 and from Firenzuola, along<br />
an internal route, it reaches Le Valli, previously the site of a<br />
small pilgrims’ hospice. Then passing through the villages of<br />
Boschetto and Baccanella (the place name of the latter is significant!),<br />
we reach the state road in Pietramala, a place where<br />
the existence of a hospice dedicated to San Lorenzo has been<br />
documented since 1256.<br />
Beyond Pietramala, the road continues towards Radicosa Pass,<br />
then goes down into the valley of the Savena river and heads<br />
towards Bologna. Having remained almost unchanged for<br />
centuries, the route is the one identified in the “Liber de stratis<br />
magistris Comunis Bononie“ (1289) as “strata per quam itur<br />
Florenciam a terra Sancti Rofilli (Saint Ruffillo) usque ad terram<br />
Predamale (Pietramala)”.<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 5<br />
Instead, our itinerary takes us back to Sant’Agata di Mugello, but<br />
along a different route from the one used on the outward journey.<br />
It therefore takes us to Covigliaio, a village on state road 65.<br />
CAI sign along the route<br />
172<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Firenzuola<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
Le Valli<br />
4.5 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Pietramala<br />
5 km<br />
Time: 1h40’<br />
Covigliaio
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Pietramala<br />
The border between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal<br />
States was near Pietramala: the “terra” of Pietramala was the border<br />
customs seat and a stopping point for travelers.<br />
All 18 th - and 19 th -century guides for travelers mention the pseudo-volcanic<br />
phenomena in the area, particularly the emissions of<br />
methane and the gush of oil. The first are described as follows:<br />
“Just a half mile from Pietramala ... a small, active Volcano is seen.<br />
A clear flame rises from the surface of the earth that spans a<br />
space of 12 to 15 feet on all sides. When the weather is rainy, or<br />
threatening to storm, the flame becomes more active”. Regarding<br />
the oil, it is said that “It is also to be observed, half a league away<br />
from Pietramala, a cold water spring, called Acqua Baja, which<br />
ignites if one approaches with a torch” (“Itinerario Italiano che<br />
contiene la descrizione dei viaggi per le strade più frequentate”,<br />
Firenze 1807, pp.21 and 22).<br />
A stretch along the crest of the Apennines<br />
173
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
Leg 6<br />
COVIGLIAIO<br />
FUTA PASS<br />
Cà di Patisci<br />
Cà degli Arrighi<br />
Fratte<br />
Belvedere<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Casellina<br />
Continuing of LEG 4<br />
see page 170<br />
Selva<br />
Traversa<br />
L’Erede<br />
Monteritroni<br />
174<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Stretch along the itinerary
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Cà degli Arrighi<br />
Level of technical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />
Climb: m 440<br />
Distance: km 10.4<br />
Travel time: 3h45’<br />
This leg goes exclusively on trails. The route is well marked, with the exception<br />
of the stretch between Covigliaio and Passaggeri where good orientation skills<br />
are necessary and of which a particular description is given. This leg starts with<br />
a steep climb on a dirt road towards Colle di Covigliaio. After about 500 m.,<br />
we leave the road to enter a field where we easily go over a small fence. We<br />
continue climbing until we reach CAI Bo 019 and the CAI-Bo917- Sentiero degli<br />
Dei or trail of the Gods. At just over 1000 meters a.s.l., we have two alternative<br />
routes. The first heads south and is easier and less tiring; it is reached by turning<br />
left and following the signs for the SOFT11 route. The second goes north and is<br />
reached by turning right (CAI Bo 019/ Sentiero degli Dei CAI Bo-917 trails) but is<br />
not well-marked. The latter descends to the Savena river and then climbs again<br />
towards Passeggeri-Ca’ degli Arrighi.<br />
Note: Although it is not a long leg, the climbs require proper physical training.<br />
Transport:<br />
Pietramala (also towards Emilia Romagna)<br />
Futa Pass<br />
To be seen:<br />
Roman stone-paving<br />
Futa Pass<br />
The Gothic Line – Futa Pass<br />
175<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
ARCHEOLOGY<br />
Via Flaminia Minor<br />
Approximately 3 kms north of the Futa Pass, a long, straight<br />
stretch of a perfectly preserved stone-paved Roman road has been<br />
brought to light. Located at the foot of Monte Poggione, it is<br />
related to the road called by scholars Flaminia Minor or Flaminia<br />
Militare, a road that was opened in 187 B.C. by Consul Flaminius<br />
to connect Bononia [Bologna] with Arretium [Arezzo], presumably<br />
passing by Fiesole.<br />
The find is part of a series of archeological discoveries that have<br />
allowed the ancient road’s route to be reconstructed; it is to be<br />
considered, somewhat, the forerunner of the medieval road that<br />
connected Florence and Bologna, although its route was, at least<br />
to some extent, different, even if they both ran beyond the Apennine<br />
ridge into the Savena Valley.<br />
Roman paving of the Via Flaminia Minor<br />
176
From the small town of Covigliaio, we head towards the Futa<br />
Pass, the pass in the Apennines that replaced the Giogo Pass<br />
in modern times and forced a change on the route to Bologna<br />
by abandoning the Scarperia-Firenzuola direction in favor of the<br />
route through Barberino di Mugello.<br />
Signs along the route<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 6<br />
177<br />
Covigliaio<br />
4.7 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Cà degli Arrighi<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Futa Pass<br />
www.vieromee.it
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
SANT’AGATA<br />
Starting point of LEG5<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Roncopiano<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
Castello<br />
Riarsiccio<br />
Marcoiano<br />
Campisano<br />
178<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Signs along the route
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio<br />
Level of technical difficulty: E<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />
Climb: m 375<br />
Distance: km 13.4<br />
Travel time: 4h15’<br />
The leg goes almost exclusively along trails and partly on dirt roads.<br />
The route is well identified thanks to CAI signs.<br />
Note: The stretch from the Osteria Bruciata Pass to Sant’Agata retraces backwards<br />
the route of Leg 4. We follow a short section of SP 116 in a southerly<br />
direction and then get on the CAI path 00/GEA. We walk for about 5 km in the<br />
direction of the Osteria Bruciata Pass, crossing Monte Gazzaro and going past<br />
the junction for Paracchia. From the Osteria Bruciata Pass, we head south, following<br />
the signs for the CAI paths 46A and SoFT 13 in the direction of Monte<br />
Linari and Monte Alto. After approximately 3.5 km along the ridge, we begin<br />
the descent towards Montepoli and Sant’Agata.<br />
Transport:<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Scarperia<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
179<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />
Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />
Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />
Leg 4<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Leg 5<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Leg 6<br />
Covigliaio<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Leg 7<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Sant’Agata
To reach Sant’Agata from the Futa Pass, we follow a route that<br />
passes through the old Apennine pass of Osteria Bruciata,<br />
whose name is derived from the existence at this site of a hostel,<br />
later abandoned because of the decline in traffic due to the preference<br />
given to the route through the Giogo Pass.<br />
The mule track that we follow to go to Sant’Agata retraces,<br />
with all probability, the original 13 th -century road to Bologna that<br />
crossed the Osteria Bruciata Pass and then descended towards<br />
Cornacchiaia. The decline of the route is somehow connected<br />
to the grim story, handed down orally, that tells of a landlord<br />
who used to rob and kill travelers going through the pass, and<br />
whose flesh he served to be eaten by the unsuspecting patrons<br />
of his inn.<br />
4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 7<br />
Trail along the route<br />
180<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Futa Pass<br />
4.8 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />
2.8 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Riarsiccio<br />
5.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Sant’Agata
HOSPITALITY<br />
Osteria Bruciata<br />
From a geographical point of view, the best place to cross the<br />
Apennine ridge between Sant’Agata and Cornacchiaia is the Osteria<br />
Bruciata Pass. It is obvious that the original road between<br />
Bologna and Florence, that naturally was not a carriageable road,<br />
passed from there. Already at the time of the first Jubilee, in fact,<br />
a Bolognese “provision “ from 19 October 1300 described the<br />
road as rundown and with evidence of frequent landslides (“full<br />
of gullies and very devastated”), for which the City of Bologna set<br />
out to perform road restoration works that would facilitate the<br />
passage of pilgrims.<br />
It is thanks to Daniele Sterpos’s discovery of a 1585 document<br />
that we have a sketch which depicts a small hospice – abandoned<br />
but still standing – situated with a road passing in front, right at<br />
the pass (D. Sterpos, Comunicazioni stradali attraverso i tempi.<br />
Bologna-Firenze, Novara 1961, p.44).<br />
Towards Osteria Bruciata<br />
181
ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />
182<br />
Ceppeto Monte Morello<br />
Casa Fontecchio B&B<br />
Via delle Palaie, 13<br />
Ceppeto<br />
50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Tel: 055495137<br />
Fax: 055495137<br />
Cell: 3382991304<br />
Meini Roberta Affittacamere<br />
Viale Pescetti, 9<br />
Ceppeto<br />
50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Tel: 055 402066 - Fax: 055 402066<br />
Montemorello Albergo<br />
Via Miramonti, 40 – 42<br />
Ceppeto<br />
50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Tel: 055 402064<br />
Monte Senario<br />
Campeggio Poggio degli Uccellini<br />
Via Poggio Uccellini, 1050<br />
Bivigliano<br />
50030 Vaglia<br />
Tel: 055 406725 - Fax: 055 406725<br />
poggio.uccellini@virgilio.it<br />
www.poggiouccellini.it<br />
One hour distance on foot<br />
from Monte Senario<br />
Casa di Spritualità Suore Serve di Maria<br />
Addolorata<br />
Via della Fittaccia, 153<br />
Bivigliano<br />
50030 Vaglia<br />
Tel: 055 406718<br />
A half-hour walk<br />
Convento di Monte Senario<br />
Via di Monte Senario, 34<br />
Bivigliano<br />
50030 Vaglia<br />
Tel: parish priest 055 406441<br />
055 406442<br />
La Bruna Albergo<br />
Via della Fittaccia, 5<br />
Bivigliano<br />
50030 Vaglia<br />
Tel: 055 406614<br />
da_ma2005@katamail.com<br />
Sant’Agata di Mugello<br />
Agriturismo Catelaccio<br />
Via Montepoli, 11/E<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
50038 Scarperia<br />
Tel: 055 8406624<br />
Cell. 338 2842883 - Fax: 055 8406624<br />
catelaccio@libero.it<br />
Il Colle B&B<br />
Via Montaccianico, 52<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
50038 Scarperia<br />
Tel: 055 8406752<br />
Fax: 055 8406752<br />
Cell: 333 4507718<br />
fabrizio.rossi56@virgilio.it<br />
Parrocchia Sant’Agata<br />
Piazza della Libertà, 1<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
50038 Scarperia<br />
Tel: parish priest 055 8406926<br />
Pieve S. Agata Foresteria della Canonica<br />
Via della Pieve, 3<br />
Sant’Agata<br />
50038 Scarperia<br />
Tel: 055 8406926<br />
Cornacchiaia<br />
Azienda agrituristico/venatoria Rovignale<br />
Via Castro Rovignale, 492/A<br />
Campiglia<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 8149297<br />
Cell. 3332429344<br />
0.9 km from Faeto - Cornacchiaia<br />
Le Tarelle Agriturismo<br />
Via Castro Futa, 699/A<br />
Roncopiano<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 813523 - Fax: 055813523<br />
Cell: 339 1586047<br />
meniso@tiscali.it<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Albergo Acconci<br />
Piazza Agnolo, 18<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel. 055 819053 - Fax 055 8199203<br />
aracconci@tiscali.it<br />
www.acconci.it<br />
Albergo Berti<br />
Via Traversa, 351<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055815265 - 055815270<br />
Fax: 055 815270<br />
Albergo Iolanda<br />
Via Imolese, 16<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 819020<br />
B&B Il Nuovo Cacciatori<br />
Piazza Agnolo, 5<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 8109009 - Fax: 055 8109009
Pietramala - Covigliaio<br />
Albergo Montefreddi<br />
Via Montefreddi<br />
Pietramala - Cà di Barba<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 347 9925090<br />
www.montefreddi.it<br />
B&B La vecchia scuola<br />
Loc. Covigliaio - Cerretino, 7 – Pietramala<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 812251<br />
Cell: 335 7068546<br />
Fax: 055 812251<br />
stefiric@libero.it<br />
Hotel Ristorante Gualtieri<br />
Via Nazionale, 81 - Pietramala<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
La Casetta Agriturismo<br />
Covigliaio - Pietramala<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 812038<br />
Fax: 055 8154914<br />
4.5 km South-West of Pietramala<br />
Futa Pass<br />
Campeggio La Futa<br />
Via Bruscoli, 889/H - Futa Pass<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 328 9248746 - Cell: 333 1148501<br />
Fax: 055 815297<br />
info@campinglafuta.it<br />
www.campinglafuta.it<br />
Futa Pass Albergo<br />
Via San Jacopo a Castro, 57 - La Futa<br />
50033 Firenzuola<br />
Tel: 055 815255<br />
www.passodellafuta.it<br />
APT Municipality of Barberino del Mugello<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Via del Lago, 33<br />
Loc. I Boschi 50031<br />
Barberino del Mugello<br />
Near the A1 motoway<br />
Barberino di Mugello exit<br />
Tel and Fax: 055 8420106<br />
www.comune.barberino-di-mugello.fi.it<br />
www.mugellotoscana.it<br />
barberinomugello@firenzeturismo.it<br />
Hours: every day 10 a.m.-7 p.m.<br />
Borgo San Lorenzo<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Villa Pecori Giraldi at<br />
Museo della Manifattura Chini<br />
Piazzale Lavacchini 1 - 50032<br />
Tel: 055 8456230 - 055 84527186<br />
Fax: 055 8456230 - 055 8456288<br />
www.mugellotoscana.it<br />
www.villapecori.it<br />
info@villapecori.it<br />
turismo@cm-mugello.fi.it<br />
Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m.<br />
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3<br />
p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Comunità Montana Mugello<br />
Via P. Togliatti 45<br />
Sede operativa at<br />
Villa Pecori Giraldi - 50032<br />
Tel: 055 84527185-6<br />
Fax: 055 8456288<br />
www.mugellotoscana.it<br />
turismo@cm-mugello.fi.it<br />
Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m.<br />
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3<br />
p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />
183<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
U.R.P. Municipality of San Piero a Sieve<br />
Piazzetta del Comune, 1<br />
50037 San Piero a Sieve (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8487536 - Fax: 055 848432<br />
www.mugellotoscana.it<br />
www.comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi.it<br />
urp@comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Saturday 9 a.m.-<br />
1 p.m.; Thursday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3<br />
p.m.-6 p.m<br />
Town hall of Firenzuola<br />
Tourist information<br />
Piazza Don Stefano Casini, 1<br />
50054 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8199460<br />
www.firenzuolaturismo.it<br />
info@firenzuolaturismo.it<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Municipality of Vaglia<br />
At the ticket office of Villa Demidoff<br />
Pratolino - Vaglia<br />
Tel: 055 409784<br />
turismovaglia@virgilio.it<br />
Opening: 15 July - 15 September<br />
Thursdays and Fridays: 4 p.m.-6 p.m.;<br />
Saturdays and Sundays: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Palazzo ex Pretura<br />
Piazza Agnolo, 15<br />
50033 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />
At the Library and at the Pro Loco (support)<br />
biblioteca@comune.firenzuola.fi.it<br />
Tel: 055 8199434/5 - 055 8199007<br />
Fax: 055 819366<br />
Winter hours: Mondays 2 p.m.-4 p.m.<br />
and Saturdays 10 a.m.-12 p.m.
184<br />
Summer hours: Monday - Thursday 10<br />
a.m.-12 p.m. / 3 p.m.-5 p.m.; Saturdays<br />
and Sundays 10 a.m.-12 p.m.<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
of the Municipality of Firenzuola<br />
Via SS. Annunziata, 4<br />
50033 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8199459<br />
Fax: 055 8109856<br />
www.firenzuolaturismo.it<br />
f.mazzoni@comune.firenzuola.fi.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30<br />
a.m.-12.30 p.m.; Mondays and Thursdays<br />
also 3 p.m.-5 p.m.<br />
At the Library of the Municipality<br />
of San Piero a Sieve<br />
Piazza Medici - 50037<br />
Tel: 055 8487528<br />
Fax: 055 848432<br />
bibliosp@internetlibero.it<br />
Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 3<br />
p.m.-7 p.m.; Thursdays 9 a.m.-12 p.m./3<br />
p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; 1st<br />
and 3rd Mondays of each month 3 p.m.-<br />
10 p.m.<br />
Pro Loco Scarperia<br />
Palazzo dei Vicari<br />
Piazza dei Vicari, 1<br />
50038 Scarperia (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8468165<br />
Fax: 055 8468862<br />
www.prolocoscarperia.com<br />
www.mugellotoscana.it<br />
prolocoscarperia@virgilio.it<br />
Hours (from 25 May to 14 September):<br />
From Monday to Friday 9 a.m.-1 p.m.;<br />
Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays also<br />
15 p.m.-7.30 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays<br />
10 a.m.-1 p.m./3 p.m.-7.30 p.m.;<br />
(from 15 September to 24 May): From<br />
Wednesday to Sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m.;<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 3 p.m.-6.30 p.m.<br />
Firenzuola<br />
Dal Bosco e dalla Pietra (October)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />
Battista (24 June)<br />
San Piero a Sieve<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, San Pietro<br />
and Paolo (June)<br />
Palio della Fortezza (last week-end in<br />
May or first in June)<br />
Scarperia<br />
Feast of Diotto<br />
(first week in September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Jacopo and<br />
Filippo (3 May)<br />
Infiorata (24 May)<br />
Scarperia Sant’Agata di Mugello<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Agata<br />
(1 February)<br />
Sesto Fiorentino<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino<br />
(11 November)<br />
Sesto Fiorentino Chiesa di Cercina<br />
Feast of Sant’Antonio abate and blessing<br />
of animals (18 January)<br />
Events and fairs<br />
Barberino di Mugello<br />
Canta’ Maggio (May)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint , San Silvestro<br />
(31 December)<br />
Borgo San Lorenzo<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo<br />
(10 August)<br />
Fiesole<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />
(6 July)<br />
Feast of San Francesco<br />
(first Sunday in October)
5 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA VECCHIA<br />
ARETINA<br />
The itinerary to Loreto<br />
185<br />
The Via dell’Alpe di Serra was a pilgrim route to Rome that had<br />
been known since the early Middle Ages and one that was considered<br />
preferable even to the Via Francigena by a documentary<br />
source like the Annales Stadenses from the mid-13 th century. The<br />
route started from the Via Emilia, with tracks fanning out between<br />
Bologna and Forlì, it reached Bagno di Romagna going up<br />
the Bidente Valley and then crossed the Apennines at the Alpe di<br />
Serra Pass – from which its name is derived – today abandoned<br />
in favor of the Mandrioli Pass. It then unwound in the Casentino<br />
basin, running parallel to the initial course of the Arno and then<br />
reached Arezzo to continue on to Rome, crossing the Val di Chiana<br />
and afterwards, the Val Tiberina.
5 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
The itinerary to Loreto<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Quarata<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
186<br />
THE ITINERARY<br />
400<br />
350<br />
300<br />
250<br />
200<br />
150<br />
100<br />
50<br />
00<br />
Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Elevation gain:<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Detour to Via dell’Albereta<br />
Junction with detour to Via dell’Albereta<br />
Bandella Reserve<br />
Montincello - junction with Setteponti road<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />
Junction with SP1
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 78.9<br />
Distance (local itinerary): km 14.9<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi<br />
Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina<br />
Distance: km 13.7<br />
Page 192<br />
Leg 1, Local Itineraries:<br />
Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna<br />
Waypoints: Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo,<br />
Poggio Terra Bianca, Arco del Camicia<br />
Distance: km 14.9<br />
Page 198<br />
Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina<br />
Waypoints: Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia<br />
Distance: km 10.3<br />
Page 198<br />
Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno<br />
Waypoints: Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />
Distance: km17.5<br />
Page 204<br />
Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi<br />
Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Distance: km 17.6<br />
Page 212<br />
Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina<br />
Waypoints: Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti<br />
road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />
Distance: km 18.6<br />
Page 218<br />
Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo)<br />
Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano<br />
Distance: km 11.5<br />
Page 222<br />
Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Distance: km 5.5<br />
187<br />
This tourist-style itinerary unwinds primarily on asphalt roads and partially on<br />
dirt ones. The route is very clearly marked and presents no orientation difficulties.<br />
Only the first leg has a significant climb (370 m), whereas there are no<br />
significant differences in elevation in the others. Once past Bagno a Ripoli, the<br />
landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as S. Donato in Collina.<br />
Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter deciduous woods<br />
outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated by cultivated<br />
fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation predominate near<br />
the path until returning to the wooded areas of the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />
Nature Reserve.<br />
Note: The route is characterized by lightly trafficked asphalt roads (70%), while<br />
the remainder is characterized by gravel and dirt road beds (30%).<br />
On foot, attention must be paid along those parts of the provincial and regional<br />
roads that lack sidewalks where the rules of the road must be respected. There<br />
are no problems with finding water. The last leg of the itinerary (from Laterina<br />
to Arezzo) coincides with the final leg of the Setteponti itinerary and includes a<br />
short stretch by bus (from Quarata to Arezzo).
5 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
The itinerary to Loreto<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Laterina<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
188<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Valdarno countryside
BIKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 84.4<br />
Level of technical difficulty: TC<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: From Porta San Miniato – Figline Valdarno<br />
Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina, Troghi, Le Valli, Palazzolo,<br />
Incisa in Val d’Arno - Distance: Km 31.2<br />
Page 192<br />
Leg 2: Figline Valdarno – Laterina<br />
Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno, Montevarchi, Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello<br />
(junction with Setteponti road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />
Distance: km 36.2<br />
Page 212<br />
Leg 3: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata<br />
Distance: km 17<br />
Page 222<br />
The tourist-style bike route is on asphalt and dirt roads. The dirt roads have<br />
smooth, compacted road beds, suitable for vehicles. The first leg is more demanding<br />
with a 370-m. climb that leads up to Troghi. Once past the town of<br />
Bagno a Ripoli, the landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as<br />
S. Donato in Collina. Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter<br />
deciduous woods outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated<br />
by cultivated fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation<br />
predominate near the path until reaching the wooded Valle dell’Inferno and<br />
Bandella nature reserve.<br />
Note: There are a couple of legs along the route with moderately demanding<br />
climbs for which an appropriate physical training is recommended. The route<br />
is characterized by asphalt roads with little traffic (70%) and thus suitable for<br />
racing bikes, the remaining 30% is characterized by gravel and dirt, largely<br />
the Valdarno shared-use path, and therefore suitable for mountain and city<br />
bikes. The last leg (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds to the final leg of the<br />
Setteponti itinerary. Attention must be paid to vehicle traffic in the last stretch<br />
between Quarata and Arezzo.<br />
189<br />
The Ripoli abbey in an 18 th -century drawing
Arezzo: A Point of Convergence for <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes<br />
The first city encountered after crossing the Apennines was Arezzo,<br />
not only an important stopping place but also, because of its<br />
location, a point of convergence for the roads used by pilgrims<br />
coming from the populous neighboring valleys and primarily<br />
from the upper Valdarno.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
The Via dell’Alpe di Serra as a road to Rome must have been used<br />
even by pilgrims starting from Florence, who traveled on the road<br />
indicated in the 14 th -century Statuto del Capitano del Popolo as<br />
the “via et strata que summitur a porta seu Burgo Sancti Niccholai<br />
per quam itur in Vallem Arni”. It was a route that had<br />
developed following the Roman Via Cassia, and that unwound<br />
through the Upper Valdarno, keeping to the left of the Arno,<br />
and, once beyond the easy San Donato pass, crossed the Ripoli<br />
plain to arrive in Florence.<br />
In the Middle Ages, the route of the Roman road continued<br />
to serve its function, even if it had only local importance as it<br />
was no longer the favored route to Rome. It was used mainly<br />
for connections between Florence and Arezzo as it ran through<br />
the upper Valdarno. This was a particularly fertile area of the<br />
Florentine countryside – considered the city’s granary – that generated<br />
abundant traffic in the direction of the leading city. Not<br />
unexpectedly, large centers rose along this road and developed<br />
around markets (as, for example, Figline and Montevarchi). In the<br />
early 14 th century, the Florentine Republic founded one of its first<br />
“terrenuove”, Castel San Giovanni, so as to defeat the remaining<br />
feudal resistance and take full control of the territory.<br />
190<br />
The Shells of Saint James<br />
www.vieromee.it
The Ancient Accommodation<br />
and Charitable Structures<br />
Evidence of the concentration of travelers is confirmed by the<br />
numerous accommodation and charitable structures that dotted<br />
the road, concentrating in the main towns and villages. In the<br />
14 th century, a number of hostels and inns are documented along<br />
the itinerary, in Incisa, Figline, Tartigliese, San Giovanni and Montevarchi,<br />
that had no equal in all the Florentine countryside. It<br />
was the same as regards hospices, which mainly served pilgrims.<br />
The registers of papal tithes from the end of the 13 th century,<br />
that recorded only some of the many hospices that were found<br />
along the way, mention : the Hospice of Plano Alberti, located<br />
at the point where the “terranuova” of San Giovanni would<br />
soon rise, the Hospice of Ancisa and the Hospice of Avanella<br />
(Levanella). Yet we know from other sources that the hospices<br />
were much more numerous, especially in San Giovanni and Incisa,<br />
not to mention in Troghi (Sant’Antonio alle Staffe), La Ginestra<br />
(Sant’Angelo), and, above all, in Montevarchi and Figline. In<br />
addition, there was the large one that rose in L’Apparita, near<br />
Florence: the hospice of Fonteviva or Bigallo, first documented<br />
in 1214, as well as a whole series of small hospices that dotted<br />
the initial stretch of road between Florence and Bagno a Ripoli.<br />
Towards the Sanctuary of Loreto<br />
Between the 15 th and 16 th centuries, another important place of<br />
pilgrimage was added to the traditional peregrinationes of Western<br />
Christianity, the Sanctuary of Loreto, with a significant increase<br />
in the transit of pilgrims through the upper Valdarno. The road to<br />
Arezzo, in fact, became the starting route for all those who wished<br />
to travel from Florence to visit the Holy House in Loreto.<br />
Abundant documents – mostly from the 16 th and 17 th centuries<br />
– tell us about the route, with pilgrims stopping in the Florentine<br />
Valdarno, in Palazzolo or Troghi, then in Figline, Levanella and<br />
finally in Ponte a Buriano. The route went to Cortona through<br />
the Val di Chiana, and then headed towards Foligno, traveling<br />
by way of Perugia and Assisi. After crossing the Col Fiorito Pass,<br />
it continued in the Chienti valley, reaching Recanati and finally<br />
arriving in Loreto.<br />
191<br />
Along the way
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
Leg 1:<br />
PORTA SAN MINIATO (Florence)<br />
TROGHI<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
Candeli<br />
Villamagna<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 1<br />
Incontro<br />
Belvedere<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Santa Caterina<br />
Ponte Ema<br />
Antella<br />
San Frediano<br />
Bigallo<br />
Osteria Nuova<br />
LOCAL ITINERARY<br />
San Donato in Collina<br />
Troghi<br />
LEG 1 to<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
see page 204<br />
192<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from L’Apparita
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 370<br />
Distance: km 13.7<br />
Travel time: 4h15’<br />
This tourist-style leg follows mostly asphalt and partly dirt roads (along the<br />
Albereta bike path). It is clearly marked and does not present any difficulties<br />
or orientation problems. The stretch from Bagno a Ripoli to San Donato in<br />
Collina is demanding with 370-m. elevation gain. Immediately after Bagno<br />
a Ripoli, the route follows SP1, which offers fine views over the city and the<br />
typical hilly landscape.<br />
Note: Water and refreshments are available along this leg at many points in the<br />
villages outside of Florence. In the city, we advise pedestrians to take the alternative<br />
route on the Varlungo inside the Albereta Park. The road leads us to the<br />
Antique Hospice of Bigallo, where an intermediate stopover can be made, and<br />
from which two day-long itineraries can be followed to discover the historical<br />
and architectural heritage in the hills of Bagno a Ripoli.<br />
Transport:<br />
Florence<br />
San Donato in Collina<br />
Troghi<br />
To be seen:<br />
Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />
Hospice of Bigallo<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from “L’Apparita”<br />
193<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
Troghi<br />
Leg 2<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Leg 3<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Leg 4<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 5<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
The route that begins our itinerary starts from Porta San Miniato.<br />
From here we go along a stretch of Via San Miniato and<br />
enter Via San Niccolò that then leads us to the point where the<br />
medieval road began: the current Piazza Poggi, dominated by<br />
the turreted Porta San Niccolo, the only city gate in Florence’s<br />
13 th -century walls that has maintained its original elevation.<br />
From Piazza Poggi, we take Via della Fornace until it connects to<br />
Via Ser Ventura Monachi. This runs into Via dei Bastioni and then<br />
intersects the 19 th - century Viale Michelangelo.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
The Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli has kept its original<br />
Romanesque look; it has a basilican plan with three aisles separated<br />
by square pillars and by two recycled marble columns at the<br />
presbytery. A semicircular apse ends the building, which is covered<br />
with the traditional wooden trusses. Next to the church is a simple<br />
Romanesque bell tower while the elegant portico, that rests<br />
against the façade, is ascribable to the 14 th century and is set on<br />
octagonal pillars. The parish church by now merges with the first<br />
houses of Bagno a Ripoli, a modern-looking town whose considerable<br />
antiquity is, nevertheless, confirmed by the archaeological<br />
site located between Via della Nave and the new Piazza della Pace.<br />
There are remains of buildings from the Imperial age (1 st -4 th centuries<br />
A.D.), perhaps thermae, and a large cistern in opus reticulatum.<br />
Rising on the ancient Via Cassia, Bagno a Ripoli is the successor<br />
to the ancient town of Ripulae, whose name derived from the<br />
river banks (ripae) that prevented the Arno from flooding the plain.<br />
194<br />
The parish church of Ripoli
We cross the street and go along Via C. Marsuppini that passes<br />
in front of the Chiesa di Santa Maria a Ricorboli, first constructed<br />
in the 14 th century, but completely rebuilt in the early<br />
years of the last century. Inside is the so-called Madonna of the<br />
Refuge by a master from the school of Giotto (1335), an object<br />
of great veneration by pilgrims and travelers, who would turn to<br />
the Madonna to ask for heavenly protection along the trip that<br />
awaited them.<br />
We continue past the church on Via Coluccio Salutati until the<br />
intersection with Via di Ripoli on which we continue. We are<br />
in what were once the Florentine suburbs, dotted with elegant<br />
villas, as can still be seen with Villa Rusciano and Villa del Merlo<br />
Bianco, located along the route. In the past, the first accommodation<br />
and charitable structures would have been found in this<br />
stretch, their existence confirmed not only by documents but<br />
also by the towns’ very names: a hospice was where the Gualandi<br />
Institute stands today at Via di Ripoli 82, other hospices<br />
were in Bandino and Spedaluzzo, and an inn in Albergaccio.<br />
Continuing along Via di Ripoli, a little after Spedaluzzo, we find<br />
the Vallombrosan Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli, that,<br />
marked by a great simplicity, has preserved its original Romanesque<br />
architectural features as well as a 14 th -century cloister. The<br />
church has a single nave with a crypt under the presbytery and<br />
a small loggia on the front that was added at a later period.<br />
Because of its location on an important artery, the abbey served<br />
as a hospitium, as testified by an inscription on the door leading<br />
to the cloister: “hospes eram et suscepistis me venite benedicti”.<br />
An alternative route starting from Via di Ripoli arrives in Piazza<br />
Ravenna by way of Via Poggio Bracciolini, where we can enter<br />
Via dell’Albereta. This is a pedestrian-only street that runs along<br />
the Arno River and goes as far as Via del Bisarno. From here,<br />
going on Via della Lame and then on Via della Badia a Ripoli, we<br />
can also reach the ancient Vallombrosan abbey.<br />
The road then enters the town of Bagno a Ripoli, here its name<br />
changes and becomes Via Roma, and we find the Parish Church<br />
of San Pietro a Ripoli.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1<br />
195<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />
1 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />
1 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo<br />
3 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
San Donato in Collina<br />
3.7 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Troghi<br />
www.vieromee.it
Back to Bagno a Ripoli and passing the ancient Tabernacle of the<br />
Podestà, we follow the Via Vecchia Aretina on a steep downhill<br />
stretch until we reach Varliano where the Oratory of Santa<br />
Croce rises. Built in the second half of the 13 th century, the little<br />
church has Romanesque-Gothic features: a single nave divided<br />
into three bays covered with ribbed cross vaults, and a façade<br />
covered with regular courses of sandstone ashlars.<br />
After a flat stretch, the medieval road, in La Fonte, unlike today’s<br />
provincial road, went up steeply until it reached the magnificent<br />
hospice of Fonteviva or del Bigallo, which is the starting<br />
point for the two local itineraries.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1<br />
Leaving the hospice behind, our itinerary passes quickly through<br />
L’Apparita (a place-name originating from its being the first<br />
point where the wayfarer could see Florence), and then comes<br />
to Le Quattro <strong>Vie</strong>. Here we initially take an asphalt road that<br />
then becomes a dirt one, that leads to Ponte a Vicelli, a structure<br />
dating back to 1293 that, together with the original brickwork,<br />
has preserved the aedicule of a tabernacle. The road then<br />
proceeds in the direction of the pass (and town) of San Donato,<br />
joining the provincial road just before the town.<br />
From San Donato, we take the now secondary road of Via Vecchia<br />
Aretina – a meaningful name – but that once was the<br />
main route along which we find some remaining stretches of<br />
the ancient stone paving. We come to Troghi after crossing over<br />
a picturesque bridge that also has a tabernacle and there we<br />
connect to the provincial road. An inn in Troghi, the first stopping<br />
place after the pass, is mentioned in the 1726 Relazione del<br />
viaggio alla Santa Casa by Canon Giuseppe Antonio Scarlatti.<br />
196<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />
1 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />
1 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo<br />
3 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
San Donato in Collina<br />
3.7 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Troghi
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Church of San Donato in Collina<br />
Though modernized, the church has kept the high, cuspidate bell<br />
tower whose architectural features still reflect the Romanesque<br />
tradition. There was a hospice – also named for Saint Donatus<br />
– attached to the church that served travelers’ needs, recorded<br />
since 1341.<br />
HOSPITALITY<br />
The Ancient Hospice of Bigallo<br />
Built in the first half of the 13 th century by Dioticidiede di Bonaguida<br />
del Dado, a rich citizen of Florence, the hospice was the seat of<br />
the Compagnia Maggiore dei Capitani di Santa Maria della Fede,<br />
later known as the Bigallo from its location. It carried out charitable<br />
work, caring for pilgrims and poor travelers as well as the<br />
sick that were given shelter in the thirty beds of the hospice. Later<br />
it was converted into a monastery in the 16 th century, and then<br />
used for civil purposes after the Napoleonic suppression. Now the<br />
partly restored hospice has just recently returned to play its ancient<br />
role as a hostel for travelers. The complex consists of several<br />
buildings from different periods, with the oldest parts ascribable<br />
to the 13 th century. Of note is the large hall with the lacunar ceiling<br />
that served as the refectory and the ancient kitchen with its<br />
large fireplace.<br />
Reconstruction of the antique hospice of the Bigallo<br />
197
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES:<br />
BIGALLO - INCONTRO - VILLAMAGNA<br />
BIGALLO - ANTELLA - SANTA CATERINA<br />
LOCAL ITINERARY<br />
Villamagna<br />
San Gherardo<br />
Rimaggio<br />
Incontro<br />
Belvedere<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
San Fredinando<br />
Santa Caterina<br />
Antella<br />
Querceto<br />
Osteria Nuova<br />
Bigallo<br />
MAIN<br />
ITINERARY<br />
Il Colto<br />
Casanuova<br />
198<br />
Reto<br />
Hospice of the Bigallo
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo, Poggio Terra Bianca,<br />
Arco del Camicia<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 580<br />
Distance: km 14.9<br />
Travel time: 5h15’<br />
The local itinerary, leading to the Convent of Incontro, is characterized by the<br />
typical landscape of the Florentine hills, with terraced olive groves and mixed<br />
woods of downy, turkey and holm oaks and scattered groups of cypress in<br />
some areas.<br />
To be seen:<br />
Church of Santo Stefano a Paterno<br />
Convent of Incontro<br />
Oratory of Beato Gherardo<br />
Parish Church of Villamagna<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 200<br />
Distance: km 10.3<br />
Travel time: 3h10’<br />
This local south itinerary unwinds in an area characterized by a rural landscape<br />
dominated by olive cultivation. The route therefore crosses traditional and specialized<br />
olive groves interspersed with the rows of cypresses typical of Tuscany.<br />
Approaching Antella, the itinerary also runs for a short stretch on a footpath<br />
along the S. Giorgio River.<br />
199<br />
To be seen:<br />
Parish Church of Santa Maria dell’Antella<br />
Frescoes in the Oratory of Santa Caterina
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES<br />
The first itinerary proceeds in the area north of Bigallo. Returning<br />
towards Florence, after a few hundred meters, we arrive at<br />
Arco del Camicia and take “Via di Terzano”, the road to the right<br />
that leads to the Church of Santo Stefano a Paterno, in which<br />
there is a late 13 th -century painted Crucifix attributed to Gaddo<br />
Gaddi. Then we continue on a dirt road that climbs Incontro Hill<br />
where at the top – with a beautiful view of the Florentine valley<br />
– is the Franciscan convent founded in 1716 by Saint Leonard of<br />
Port Maurice.<br />
We descend Incontro Hill towards the Parish Church of Villamagna;<br />
shortly before arriving at the church, we come to<br />
an oratory named for Beato Gherardo, a saint who was the<br />
object of great local veneration and, at one time, a pilgrimage<br />
destination.<br />
Leaving the Oratory of San Gherardo, we quickly come to the<br />
Parish Church of San Donnino a Villamagna, which has preserved<br />
its original Romanesque features: three aisles separated<br />
by arches set on simple pillars and with a high bell tower. Inside,<br />
there are some paintings and frescoes, including a triptych<br />
by Mariotto di Nardo that portrays the Virgin and Child with<br />
Angels and Saints and a Madonna and Child with Saints Gerard<br />
and Domninus, painted by Francesco Granacci who was born<br />
in Villamagna.<br />
From the parish church of Villamagna, we return to the church<br />
of San Gherardo, where a CAI trail begins that will take us to<br />
the villages of Vizzano, Podere Radda, and Rimaggino until<br />
joining the Via Vecchia Aretina, not far from Arco del Camicia<br />
where we started.<br />
200<br />
Interior of the parish church of Villamagna<br />
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LAND OF SAINTS<br />
The Blessed Gerard and His Oratory<br />
Born around 1174 on a farm in the Villamagna countryside, the<br />
Blessed Gerard is thought to have died in 1258, or perhaps in<br />
1269. Because of his peasant origins, he was nicknamed the<br />
saint with clogs. The fame of his holiness and rumor of the miracles<br />
worked by him spread quickly after his death. He was especially<br />
recognized for his ability to free the countryside from<br />
such adverse weather conditions as hail, drought, and excessive<br />
rainfall. An ancient Vita or life of the saint recounts that, after his<br />
death, as the people of Villamagna wished “to take some Relics<br />
of Him (…) there was the risk that the Holy body itself would not<br />
even decompose; therefore it was rightly decided to put it, as it<br />
was done, in a coffin, and place it on top of an oak tree, until<br />
a church was built on the site of his hermitage” (M. BROCCHI,<br />
Vita di San Gherardo di Villamagna, Lucca 1750, p.22). Probably<br />
built in the second half of the 13 th century, the Oratory of San<br />
Gherardo has a single nave that still reflects the Romanesque<br />
architectural tradition. Inside is the stone sarcophagus that holds<br />
the body of the blessed man, and serves as the base for the altar<br />
mensa; on the walls are traces of frescoes depicting scenes from<br />
the life of the holy man.<br />
Oratory of Beato Gherardo<br />
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5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES<br />
To discover the area south of Bigallo, we follow a second itinerary.<br />
A dirt road branches off from Bigallo and proceeds toward<br />
the village of Ruballa, whose church is dedicated to Saints<br />
Quiricus and Judith and contains a 16 th -century Madonna and<br />
Child with Saint John as a Child attributed to Domenico Puligo.<br />
We continue towards Osteria Nuova and arrive in the town of<br />
Antella that arose around the Parish Church of Santa Maria.<br />
Leaving Antella, we go along a secondary road that passes by<br />
the Casa Poggio ai Grilli until we reach the Oratory of Santa<br />
Caterina, a charming jewel of art and architecture.<br />
Always on dirt roads, we go through a countryside dotted with<br />
medieval manor houses, often transformed and expanded in the<br />
16 th and 17 th centuries, such as Villa “Le Tavernucole” that formerly<br />
belonged to the Alberti family. Then we come again to the<br />
Via Vecchia Aretina that we reach in “Arco del Camicia”.<br />
Country road lined with trees<br />
202<br />
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VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Parish Church of Santa Maria all’Antella<br />
A Romanesque church with a single rectangular nave, it was later<br />
enlarged at the presbytery and restored with some stylistically<br />
consistent additions at the beginning of the 20 th century. Inside<br />
there are several 16 th - and 17 th -century paintings, including an<br />
Assumption of the Virgin by Domenico Passignano.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Oratory of Santa Caterina<br />
Built by the Alberti family beginning in 1354, the Oratory of Santa<br />
Caterina is named for the proto-Christian martyr whose life and<br />
martyrdom are told in an evocative cycle of frescoes, recently restored<br />
by the Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli. It is the work of three<br />
masters of the 14 th century: Spinello Aretino, Pietro Nelli, and the<br />
so-called “Master of Barberino”. The church, whose 14 th -century<br />
features are completely intact, has a single nave covered with wooden<br />
trusses and a small, square apse at the end.<br />
Frescoes of Saint Catherine<br />
203
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
Leg 2:<br />
TROGHI<br />
FIGLINE VALDARNO<br />
Troghi<br />
Continuing of LEG 1<br />
see page 192<br />
Frassine<br />
Piano di Fontana<br />
Le Valli<br />
Fornacette<br />
Palazzolo<br />
Pietramala<br />
Cerchiaia<br />
Ciliegi<br />
Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />
Le Fornaci<br />
La Torricella<br />
204<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Reconstruction of Francesco Petrarch’s house, Incisa in Valdarno
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 60<br />
Distance: km 17.5<br />
Travel time: 4h55’<br />
A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads (80%) and partly on dirt ones (20%),<br />
with a well-marked route that does not present any orientation problems. The<br />
section from Troghi to Incisa in Val d’Arno is characterized by a descent towards<br />
the Valdarno with some panoramic points.<br />
Note: The path is shaded along the stretch between Palazzolo and Incisa in<br />
Val d’Arno, and water and refreshments are available in the villages and towns<br />
along the route.<br />
Transport:<br />
Figline<br />
Troghi<br />
To be seen:<br />
Castle of Incisa<br />
House where Francesco Petrarch was born<br />
Parish Church of San Vito in Loppiano (panoramic viewpoint)<br />
Franciscan Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
Museum of Sacred Art in Figline Valdarno<br />
Church of San Francesco in Figline Valdarno<br />
205<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
Troghi<br />
Leg 2<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Leg 3<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Leg 4<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 5<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
Leaving Troghi, we go along a stretch of provincial road passing<br />
first through Spedaletto (another place-name clearly referring<br />
to the charitable structure that once existed there), then the<br />
farm-villa of “La Chiocciola”. Arriving in “La Luna”, we again<br />
leave the provincial road for a shorter route that takes us to<br />
San Quirico alla Felce, a church recorded as early as the 13 th<br />
century. The building has undergone many alterations and now<br />
exhibits vaguely neoclassical forms. Abandoned for years, it has<br />
been restored by its present owners who have opened it to the<br />
public and also offer accommodation in the adjoining rooms.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />
In Le Valli, we return to the provincial road; shortly after, we take<br />
a secondary road that passes through the Fattoria dei Bagnani<br />
and reaches Palazzolo, whose church is not by chance dedicated<br />
to Saint Mary of Loreto.<br />
Road along the itinerary<br />
206<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Troghi<br />
5.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Palazzolo<br />
2.1 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Castle of Incisa<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />
1.3 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />
Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
6.9 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Figline Valdarno
Above: old stone paving along the route / Below: Fattoria La Chiocciola in Spedaletto<br />
207
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
Palazzolo in <strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ Memoirs<br />
Palazzolo was probably a stopping point on the Roman Via Cassia<br />
since ancient times, as seems to be indicated by its place-name,<br />
derived from palatium, a term used in the late Imperial Age to<br />
indicate the posts along the routes served by the cursus publicus.<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>age memoirs mention Palazzolo as a stopping point for<br />
those who left from Florence. The brothers of the Florentine Congregation<br />
of the Holy Trinity stopped there in 1577, and paid 10<br />
scudi, 6 soldi, and 8 denari to “Benedetto, host (...) for breakfast<br />
made at said inn”. While Canon Joseph Antonio Scarlatti noted<br />
in his 1726 Relazione that he “finally stopped at half past three in<br />
Palazzolo, the inn of the lord Marchese Corsini”.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
Originally a small monastery of nuns dedicated to aiding travelers<br />
and pilgrims, it later passed in 1510 to the Franciscans, who<br />
continued their charitable work. The single-nave church was built<br />
in the first half of the 16 th century, and, at the end of that century,<br />
was given an imposing arcade to accommodate pilgrims. It was<br />
subsequently remodeled in a late Baroque style.<br />
Reconstruction of the Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
208
Beyond Palazzolo, we continue on the provincial road as far as<br />
Burchio where we take the road that – passing through San<br />
Quirico di Montelfi and Campogiano – leads to the Castle of<br />
Incisa, where the remains of its walls and of the Romanesque<br />
Church of San Biagio survive as well as some other buildings<br />
with medieval remnants, including the family home of Francesco<br />
Petrarch in which the poet spent his first seven years.<br />
Ruins of Incisa Castle<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />
209<br />
Troghi<br />
5.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Palazzolo<br />
2.1 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Castle of Incisa<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />
1.3 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />
Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
6.9 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
www.vieromee.it
A road leads from the castle to the ancient Parish Church of<br />
San Vito in Loppiano, first documented in the 11 th century. The<br />
church has three aisles and, despite the alterations over time, it<br />
has largely preserved its original Romanesque layout.<br />
The road from the Church of San Vito continues towards the<br />
town of Incisa that grew up along the Arno, at the foot of the<br />
castle. We arrive in the town from the south, where the Franciscan<br />
Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio stands,<br />
recorded since the beginning of the 14 th century. Back on the<br />
provincial road, we follow a stretch as far as Massa di Incisa to<br />
then go towards Poggiolino.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />
We reach Figline where, on the northern outskirts of the town,<br />
is the sanctuary church of Santa Maria di Ponterosso, erected<br />
in 1570 near a brick bridge (and hence its name). On it stood a<br />
tabernacle with a 15 th -century image of the Madonna from the<br />
school of Perugino; thought to be miraculous, it was detached<br />
and moved inside the oratory. The church reflects the characteristics<br />
of the Renaissance minor architecture with a quadrangularplan<br />
choir defined by a stone arch with a floral motif.<br />
In the Middle Ages, Figline was a major stopping point on the<br />
road to Loreto, as the documented concentration of accommodation<br />
and charitable structures there confirms. In the 14 th<br />
century, there were a good seven hospices in Figline: the Hospice<br />
of San Lorenzo, a Dominican one, and one of the Company<br />
of the Cross; then there were the hospices of Societas Mariae<br />
Virginis, Santo Spirito, Societas presbiterum, and finally that of<br />
the Commune.<br />
Arcade of the ancient Serristori hospice in Figline Valdarno<br />
210<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Troghi<br />
5.8 km<br />
Time: 1h30’<br />
Palazzolo<br />
2.1 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Castle of Incisa<br />
1.4 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />
1.3 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />
Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />
6.9 km<br />
Time: 2h<br />
Figline Valdarno
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Walled Town of Figline<br />
In the Middle Ages, Figline was one of the most populous centers<br />
in the Florentine countryside, home to a market whose prices<br />
served as the standard for all of the upper Valdarno. Testifying<br />
to the city’s importance is the circuit of 14 th -century walls, still<br />
largely intact, that enclosed the town, not to mention the civil<br />
buildings in the historical center, with many elegant, important<br />
ones like the Casa Grande Serristori with its 15 th -century doublecolonnaded<br />
courtyard. Also remarkable are the 13 th -century Collegiate<br />
Church and the Gothic Church of San Francesco, built at<br />
the end of the 13 th century and which reflects the simplicity typical<br />
of Franciscan architecture. Overlooking the ancient market square<br />
is the loggia of the Serristori Hospice, an important Figline institution<br />
that dates from the 15 th century.<br />
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
Figline, An Important Stopping Point<br />
Also pilgrimage memoirs invariably mention Figline as a stopping<br />
point. In 1577 members of the Florentine Confraternity of the<br />
Holy Trinity stopped there and spent the night at a cost of 41<br />
scudi, “paid to Domenico di Bartolomeo Biagiotti, innkeeper of<br />
Figline, for having given dinner to 30 of us from the Company”.<br />
As did Canon Giuseppe Antonio Scarlatti, who wrote in his previously<br />
mentioned Relazione, “... passing the plain of La Fonte, the<br />
castle of Incisa, the Franciscan fathers of Vivaio, and the monastery<br />
of the Vallombrosan fathers of the Madonna del Ponte Rosso,<br />
we came to the town of Figline, five miles from Palazzolo, and<br />
leaving the said town, we stopped at one in the night at the inn<br />
of La Stella, not very far from it, having recited the Holy Rosary<br />
while on the road. This inn is of the Lord Duke Salviati, who also<br />
owns the beautiful villa of San Cerbone, which is on a hill above”.<br />
211<br />
Figline on the map of “Popoli e strade” of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa (1585)
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
Leg 3:<br />
FIGLINE VALDARNO<br />
MONTEVARCHI<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 2<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Carresi<br />
Badiola<br />
Restone<br />
Porcellino<br />
Badiola<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Convent of San Francesco<br />
a Montecarlo<br />
Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
212<br />
Ricasoli<br />
Montevarchi<br />
LEG 2 to<br />
Laterina<br />
see page 218<br />
Detail of Figline town walls
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 10<br />
Distance: km 17.6<br />
Travel time: 4h30’<br />
This is a tourist-style leg that, for over half of its length, follows the dirt shareduse<br />
path of the Valdarno and then enters the towns of San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
and Montevarchi. The route is therefore well-marked and presents no difficulties<br />
or problems of orientation.<br />
Note: The itinerary offers little shade; water and refreshments are available in<br />
the three towns along the route. It is flat and its length is not particularly demanding,<br />
no special physical training is needed.<br />
Transport:<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
To be seen:<br />
Convent of San Francesco a Montecarlo<br />
Palazzo d’Arnolfo in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Museum of the basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Church of San Giovanni Battista in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Church of San Lorenzo<br />
Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo in Montevarchi<br />
Montevarchi Museum of Sacred Art<br />
213<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
Troghi<br />
Leg 2<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Leg 3<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Leg 4<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 5<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The “Terranuova” of Castel San Giovanni<br />
The resolution of the Florentine Signoria to erect in Valdarno the<br />
walled town of Castel San Giovanni dates to 1299. “Arnolfo made<br />
the design for it...” thus, Vasari recalls the event leading to the creation<br />
of a town with a regular urban plan, set on the Via Aretina and<br />
with an orthogonal grid road network. A large part of the town’s<br />
fortification system has disappeared, unlike the urban layout that<br />
has survived largely intact, with the main building of the “terranuova”,<br />
represented by the turreted Palazzo Pretorio, also attributed<br />
to Arnolfo. The visual and functional center of San Giovanni, the<br />
Palazzo Pretorio is located in the center of the square on which are<br />
also found the town’s main religious buildings: the 17 th -century Basilica<br />
of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />
Battista and the Gothic Church of San Lorenzo, with its peculiar<br />
two-aisle plan.<br />
DEVOTION<br />
214<br />
The Miracle of the Milk<br />
Castel San Giovanni was itself a destination for pilgrims, although<br />
mostly of local importance, owing to the great veneration towards<br />
a picture of the Madonna which was linked to a miraculous<br />
event dating back to 1478. In that year, following the plague<br />
that had raged in and decimated the Valdarno area, an elderly<br />
woman, Monna Tancia dei Bianchi Bonavista, found herself having<br />
to look after her grandson without help, as they were the only<br />
survivors in their family. Unable to find a wet-nurse to replace the<br />
boy’s dead mother, the woman went to pray at the San Lorenzo<br />
town gate, above which there was a fresco depicting the Virgin<br />
nursing: Monna Tancia sensed within herself the vital flow that<br />
would allow her to feed the baby with her own milk. Later, a<br />
repetition of miraculous events first led to the construction of a<br />
large tabernacle and then, because of the increased number of<br />
those making pilgrimages to the sacred image, to the building<br />
of a church that made up the oldest core of the Basilica of Santa<br />
Maria delle Grazie.<br />
Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno
From Figline you take the footpath that follows the course of the<br />
Arno for the few kilometers that divide the town of Figline from<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno. The latter was once an important<br />
stopping point on the ancient road to Arezzo and had, although<br />
more modestly than in Figline, a concentration of accommodation<br />
facilities.<br />
Palazzo d’Arnolfo in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3<br />
215<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
10.7 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
6.9 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Montevarchi<br />
www.vieromee.it
The distance between San Giovanni Valdarno and Montevarchi,<br />
the next waypoint on our itinerary, is short and covered by continuing<br />
to walk on the shared-use path that runs along the left<br />
bank of the Arno.<br />
On the provincial road, whose course is parallel to ours, we find<br />
Spedaluzzo, the place-name of a small village at the entrance<br />
to Montevarchi, which confirmed the many forms of accommodation<br />
(hospices, inns, hostels) that the Valdarno area offered<br />
to the travelers and pilgrims who stopped there. The 13 th - and<br />
14 th -century sources speak of the existence of a Hospitale Virginis<br />
Mariae peregrinationis, a Hospitale Sancti Michaelis de Montevarchi,<br />
as well as a hospice of Sant’Antonio.<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3<br />
Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo in Montevarchi<br />
216<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
10.7 km<br />
Time: 2h45’<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
6.9 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Montevarchi
DEVOTION<br />
The <strong>Pilgrim</strong>age of the Mothers<br />
<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s were also able to increase their religious fervor in Montevarchi,<br />
with the opportunity offered by the relic of the Holy Milk<br />
kept in the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, also in this case a<br />
destination of local pilgrimages. Around the precious relic, donated<br />
to the people of Montevarchi by Count Guido Guerra V, a pious<br />
congregation formed that was named after Saint Mary of the Milk,<br />
later becoming the Compagnia del Latte, which contributed to the<br />
cult being established in the Valdarno area where, not by chance,<br />
the iconography of the suckling Madonna would spread. Hence,<br />
women who had recently given birth made the pilgrimage to the<br />
Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo to pray for an abundance of milk.<br />
VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />
The Ancient Market Town<br />
Originally the market of the castrum de Monteguarchi set on the<br />
top of a hill northwest of the current town, Montevarchi was acquired<br />
by Florence in the mid-13 th century. It was one of the main<br />
towns in the Florentine countryside in terms of urban population<br />
and size and was therefore equipped with a system of fortifications<br />
of which few traces remain, except for the massive keep reinforcing<br />
the defenses at the Porta Fiorentina. The still clearly visible<br />
13 th -14 th -century structure of the town is based on two longitudinal<br />
road axes running parallel to each other and the large central<br />
square, with the Palazzo Pretorio and the Collegiate Church of San<br />
Lorenzo, the most important church in Montevarchi renovated on<br />
several occasions: first, in the 17 th century and again in the 18 th<br />
century. The clear influence of Florentine cultural models is plainly<br />
visible in other important buildings of the town: the late-Renaissance<br />
Oratory of the Madonna del Giglio, the 16 th -century Palazzo<br />
Alamanni, and the 18 th -century church of Sant’Andrea a Cennano.<br />
217<br />
Sanctuary Church of Santa Maria del Giglio in Montevarchi
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
Leg 4:<br />
MONTEVARCHI<br />
LATERINA<br />
Continuing of LEG 2<br />
see page 212<br />
Monticello<br />
((junction with Setteponti road)<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Levanella<br />
Bandella<br />
Reserve<br />
Valle dell’Inferno<br />
and Bandella Laterina<br />
Reserve<br />
Levane<br />
Montalto<br />
Podere Stefanelli<br />
Bucine<br />
218<br />
Bandella Reserve
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti road),<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 150<br />
Distance: km 18.6<br />
Travel time: 5h15’<br />
This tourist-style leg runs along both dirt and asphalt roads. The route is wellmarked,<br />
and poses no difficulties or problems of orientation.<br />
This leg is characterized by some panoramic points on the Arno Valley and the<br />
passage across areas of natural interest.<br />
Note: The route begins on the dirt road of a shared-use path that goes from<br />
Montevarchi, along the bank of the Dogana River, and leads then to the SR69<br />
road near Levanella. From here, after about a 2.5 km stretch on the SR69 road,<br />
it continues northward crossing the Arno and arriving in Monticello. After the<br />
bridge on Lake Levane, we climb again through the oak woods to reconnect<br />
with the historical Via Vecchia Aretina at Ponte Romito, which we follow for 2.8<br />
km until reaching Laterina. In this section, pedestrians are advised to comply<br />
with the rules of the road. On this leg, local restaurants and water fountains<br />
are available.<br />
Transport:<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Ponticino<br />
Levane<br />
Monticello<br />
To be seen:<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Natural Reserve<br />
Monticello Visitor Center<br />
Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina)<br />
Walk along the ancient castle walls, with panorama of the Lower Valdarno<br />
(Laterina)<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Galatrona and Tower<br />
(Montevarchi - Mercatale bus and then 1 kilometer on foot)<br />
219<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
Troghi<br />
Leg 2<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Leg 3<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Leg 4<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 5<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
220<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni a Galatrona
The successive course of the road to Arezzo is thus succinctly<br />
described in the 18 th -century Relazione by the canon Giuseppe<br />
Antonio Scarlatti: “The morning of 9 September we started from<br />
Montevarchi at 10 am and passing by Levane where the poststage<br />
is, by the Malafrasca forest and below Laterina, we arrived<br />
at a quarter past two in Monsoglio, at the beautiful villa of Sir<br />
Knight Bindo Peruzzi (...) at 9 p.m., we left from that villa and<br />
past the bridge at Buriano and Quarrata we arrived at half past<br />
one at night in the city of Arezzo”.<br />
Our itinerary beyond Montevarchi uses a bike path that follows<br />
the Arno River as far as the village of Case Villanuzza. Here,<br />
we go along a short stretch of state road No. 69 as far as Levane,<br />
then turn north and take a dirt road that leads to the<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve, where we cross<br />
the Arno. We then reach the small village of Monticello, where<br />
the visitor center of the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature<br />
Reserve is located. Here you can find and get information on<br />
the major ecological systems of the natural reserve: wetlands,<br />
water courses, and the wood. You can also book guided tours<br />
on foot or by boat within the natural area as well as visits to the<br />
hydroelectric plant of the Levane dam.<br />
From Montincello, we continue east, still on secondary roads until<br />
reaching Laterina.<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w from Monticello<br />
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 4<br />
221<br />
Montevarchi<br />
7 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Levane<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 35’<br />
Valle dell’Inferno<br />
and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />
2.4 km<br />
Time: 45’<br />
Monticello:<br />
Nature Reserve Visitor Center<br />
7.4 km<br />
Time: 2h10’<br />
Laterina<br />
www.vieromee.it
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />
Leg 5:<br />
LATERINA<br />
QUARATA (AREZZO)<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 3<br />
Le Casacce<br />
Le Fornaci<br />
Cincelli<br />
Laterina<br />
P. Mongibello<br />
Rondine<br />
Junction<br />
with SP1<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
Quarata<br />
Patrignone<br />
Pratantico<br />
Montione<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
222<br />
Buriano Bridge
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 170<br />
Distance: km 11.5<br />
Travel time: 3h15’<br />
A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads.<br />
We find stretches of dirt roads shortly after Laterina and at the detour that leads<br />
from the Vecchia Aretina to Rondine. The route is well marked; it poses no difficulties<br />
or problems of orientation.<br />
Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti provincial<br />
road, we find the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km. Here it<br />
is recommended that people traveling on foot continue as far as Ripa Quarata<br />
and then take the bus to Arezzo (www.etruriamobilita.it).<br />
This leg is the same as the last one of the Setteponti itinerary.<br />
Transport:<br />
Laterina<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
Quarata<br />
Arezzo<br />
To be seen:<br />
Village of Rondine<br />
Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve<br />
Buriano Bridge<br />
Arezzo<br />
223<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Miniato<br />
Troghi<br />
Leg 2<br />
Troghi<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Leg 3<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Leg 4<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 5<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 5<br />
After Laterina and continuing towards Arezzo, we find the<br />
Monsoglio Farm; we skirt along the Ponte Buriano and Penna<br />
Natural Reserve until we come to La Fornacina. Here we turn<br />
right towards the small village of Rondine, near which runs the<br />
Sette Ponti provincial road, which we take. We travel a short<br />
distance and then again cross the Arno over the imposing Buriano<br />
bridge that has preserved its 14 th -century structures. We<br />
are now at the gates of Arezzo. From the town of Quarata, we<br />
can take the bus and skip the last stretch before entering the<br />
chief town of Arezzo.<br />
In the Middle Ages, Arezzo played an important role in the transit<br />
and sorting of pilgrims: hence the numerous hospices of the<br />
city supplemented by those located in the immediate vicinity.<br />
Past Arezzo, the road that went to Rome must have followed a<br />
route quite similar to that of the Umbro-Casentino SS-71 road,<br />
on the high ground of the hills that today dominate the Val di<br />
Chiana, but that, in medieval times, faced the vast marshy area<br />
formed by the ancient tributary of the Tiber.<br />
Apse of the parish church of Arezzo<br />
224<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Laterina<br />
5.8 km<br />
Time: 1h45’<br />
Rondine<br />
3.2 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
2.5 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Quarata<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)
The Arno from the Buriano Bridge<br />
225
ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Ostello Antico Spedale del Bigallo<br />
Via del Bigallo e Apparita<br />
Osteria Nuova<br />
50012 Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Tel: 055 630907<br />
info@bigallo.it - www.bigallo.it<br />
Parrocchia S. Maria a Quarto<br />
Via di Quarto, 7 - 50012 Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Tel: 055 696454 - 055 630080<br />
Parish priest’s mobile phone: 338 6726373<br />
Vialla Il Puccetto Affittacamere<br />
Via Poggio alla Croce, 42<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 9500065 - Fax: 055 9500087<br />
ilpuccetto@libero.it - www.ilpuccetto.it<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Comunità Nuovi Orizzonti<br />
Via Pestello, 7 - 52026 Montevarchi<br />
Tel: 055 984819<br />
montevarchi@nuoviorizzonti-onlus.com<br />
www.nuoviorizzonti-onlus.com<br />
226<br />
Troghi<br />
Agriturismo Villa Torre a Cona<br />
Via Torre a Cona, 49<br />
San Donato in Collina<br />
50067 Rignano sull’Arno<br />
Tel: 055 699000 - Fax: 055 699877<br />
info@villatorreacona.com<br />
www.villatorreacona.com<br />
Campeggio Il Poggetto<br />
Via il Poggetto, 143-144 - Troghi<br />
50067 Rignano sull’Arno<br />
Tel: 055 8307323 - Fax: 055 8307323<br />
info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />
www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Campeggio Norcenni<br />
Via Norcenni, 7<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 915141 - Fax: 055 9151402<br />
girasole@ecvacanze.it<br />
www.ecvavanze.it<br />
Leon d’Oro di Prozzo Vittorio Affittacamere<br />
Via Vittorio Locchi, 7<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 951922 - Fax: 055 951922<br />
info@leondorotoscana.it<br />
www.leondorotoscana.it<br />
Monastero della Santa Croce<br />
Via S. Croce 4<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 953176<br />
Podere la Casellina Agriturismo<br />
Via Poggio alla Croce, 60<br />
La Casellina<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 9500070<br />
poderelacasellina@tin.it<br />
www.poderelacasellina.it<br />
Valdarno Affittacamere<br />
Via Petrarca, 61<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 953137 - Fax: 055 953149<br />
Podere Gruccia Affittacamere<br />
Via Burzagli, 273<br />
52025 Montevarchi<br />
Tel: 055 9850472 - Cell: 339 6263956<br />
info@poderegruccia.it<br />
www.poderegruccia.it<br />
Podere Luisa Affittacamere<br />
Via Rendola, 69<br />
52025 Montevarchi<br />
Tel: 055 9707334<br />
info@podereluisa.it - www.podereluisa.it<br />
Viallaggio Paradiso Affittacamere<br />
Via Chiantigiana<br />
52025 Montevarchi<br />
Tel: 338 3237591<br />
info@villaggioparadiso.it<br />
www.villaggioparadiso.it<br />
Laterina<br />
Fattoria Isola Agriturismo<br />
Via Aretina, 70 - 52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 0575 894785<br />
Il Poggerello Agriturismo<br />
Via Penna, 14 - 52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 335 6839009<br />
Il Torricino Affittacamere<br />
Via Valdascione, 1 - 52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 0575 89219<br />
Toscana Verde Agriturismo<br />
Via Penna, 2 - 52020 Laterina<br />
Tel.: 0575 89571 - Fax: 0575 895750<br />
info@toscanaverde.com<br />
www.toscanaverde.com<br />
Arezzo<br />
Foresteria San Pier Piccolo<br />
Via Bicchieraia, 32 - 52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 324219 - Fax: 0575 324219<br />
www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it<br />
Fraternità San Lorenzo<br />
Pomaio - 52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 793811
Il Pascione Casa vacanze<br />
Via Setteponti, 40 - 52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 356128 - Cell: 334 9557291<br />
www.ilpascione.it<br />
I Pratacci Foresteria<br />
Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 383338<br />
Cell: 335 7505504<br />
www.foresteriarezzo.com<br />
Ostello Villa Severi<br />
Via F. Redi, 13 - 52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 299047<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
URP Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Piazza della Vittoria, 1<br />
50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 6390222 - Fax: 055 6390267<br />
www.comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it<br />
urp@comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.-1<br />
p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays 2.30 p.m.-<br />
6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m.<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
Municipality of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />
(Also for the municipalities of Figline Valdarno,<br />
Reggello and Rignano sull’Arno)<br />
A1 motorway at the Incisa exit in I Ciliegi<br />
50064 Incisa Val d’Arno (Florence)<br />
Tel and Fax: 055 863129<br />
infovaldarnofi@inwind.it<br />
Hours (from 17 June to 17 October):<br />
From Monday to Saturday<br />
10 a.m.–12 p.m./2.30 p.m.–6.30 p.m.<br />
Closed on Sundays and holidays.<br />
Pro-Loco Incisa Val d’Arno<br />
Piazza Garibaldi, 8<br />
50064 Incisa Val d’Arno<br />
Tel: 055 8334061<br />
prolocoincisa@alice.it<br />
Tourist Information Office Rignano<br />
at Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />
of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />
URP Municipality of Rignano<br />
Piazza della Repubblica, 1<br />
50067 Rignano sull’Arno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8347802 - Fax: 055 8348787<br />
www.comune.rignano-sullarno.fi.it<br />
urp@comune.rignano-sullarno.fi.it<br />
Hours: from Monday to Friday 8.30 a.m.-<br />
12.30 p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays also 3<br />
p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m. -11 a.m.<br />
Tourist Office<br />
Municipality of San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Piazza Masaccio, 12<br />
52027 San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Tel: 055 9126251<br />
Fax: 055 9121796<br />
www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it<br />
turismosgv@val.it<br />
Tourist Information Office<br />
(Pro Loco San Giovanni)<br />
Piazza Cavour, 3<br />
52027 San Giovanni Val d’Arno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 943748<br />
Fax: 055 9121123<br />
www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it/proloco.asp<br />
prolocosgv@val.it<br />
Tourist Information Office Montevarchi<br />
Piazza Varchi, 5 - 52025 Montevarchi (AR)<br />
Tel: 055 9108247<br />
www.comune.montevarchi.ar.it<br />
info@comune.montevarchi.it<br />
Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
Tel: 055 9194705<br />
www.comune.terranuova-bracciolini.ar.it/<br />
Tourist Information Point<br />
Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
Tel: 055 9738828<br />
www.terraospitale.it<br />
infoturismovaldarno@gmail.com<br />
227<br />
Tourist Information Office Figline Valdarno<br />
at Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />
of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />
Associazione Pro Loco Marsilio Ficino<br />
Piazza San Francesco, 16<br />
50063 Figline Valdarno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 951569 - Fax: 055 953112<br />
info@prolocofigline.it<br />
www.prolocofigline.it<br />
Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 9<br />
a.m.-12.30 p.m. - Summer hours (May<br />
-September): from Monday to Saturday 9<br />
a.m.-12.30 p.m./ 4 p.m.-6.30 p.m. (only<br />
from Monday to Friday)<br />
APT of Arezzo<br />
Piazza Risorgimento, 116 - 52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />
Tel: 0575239523<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
apt@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />
Infopoint of Arezzo<br />
Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />
Tel: 0575 377829<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
UIT (Tourist Information Office) of Arezzo<br />
Piazza della Repubblica, 28<br />
52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />
Tel: 0575 377678
228<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
info@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />
Bike rental<br />
Alinari<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500<br />
www.alinarirental.com<br />
Rent Way<br />
P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />
50122 - Florence<br />
Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820<br />
www.rentway.it - info@rentway.it<br />
Florence by bike<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via San Zanobi, 120/122r<br />
Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />
www.florencebybike.it<br />
B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental)<br />
Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4<br />
50126 Florence<br />
Tel: 348 2644190<br />
www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com<br />
liulamp@libero.it<br />
Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental)<br />
Via del Carota, 3<br />
50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923<br />
www.lecivetteresort.it<br />
info@lecivetteresort.it<br />
Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental)<br />
Via Montelfi, 1<br />
50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8335143<br />
www.agriturismobellavista.com<br />
info@agriturismobellavista.com<br />
Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental)<br />
Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi<br />
52027 - San Giovanni Valdarno (AR)<br />
Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804<br />
Cell: 335 1250857<br />
www.agriturismovalleverde.com<br />
info@agriturismovalleverde.com<br />
Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental)<br />
Via Poggetto, 143<br />
50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8327323<br />
www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />
info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />
Events and fairs<br />
Arezzo<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato<br />
(7 August)<br />
Giostra del Saracino<br />
(June and September)<br />
Bagno a Ripoli<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro<br />
and Paolo (29 June)<br />
Palio delle Contrade and Giostra della<br />
Stella (September)<br />
Bagno a Ripoli - Grassina<br />
Re-enactment of the Passion of Christ<br />
(Good Friday)<br />
Bucine<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Salvatore<br />
(third Sunday of September)<br />
Figline Valdarno<br />
Cantamaggio (end of May)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />
(6 July)<br />
Festa del perdono and Palio di San Rocco<br />
(first Sunday of September)<br />
Incisa Valdarno<br />
Festa del Perdono, Palio dei renaioli e<br />
delle lavandaie (the Friday and Tuesday<br />
nearest to the third Sunday of September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Alessandro<br />
(6 April)<br />
Laterina<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito<br />
and Cassiano (18 August)<br />
Nativity Scenes in Laterina (December)<br />
Laterina Ponticino<br />
Palio della rana (last Sunday in June)<br />
Montevarchi<br />
Festa del Perdono, Gioco del pozzo<br />
(first week in September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo<br />
(10 August)<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele<br />
Arcangelo (29 September)<br />
Rignano sull’Arno<br />
Festa del Perdono (September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Leolino<br />
(12 November)<br />
San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Festa del Perdono<br />
(first Sunday after 13 September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />
(24 June)<br />
Rificolona (7 September)<br />
Terranova Bracciolini<br />
Festa del Perdono (September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio<br />
(13 June)
6 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE STRADA<br />
DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Via Sancti Petri<br />
229<br />
The strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve was of notable<br />
importance for Florence because, besides connecting the city<br />
with the towns on the right side of the upper Valdarno - where<br />
the road going to Arezzo, the so-called Via dei Sette Ponti, ran<br />
- it also connected, in Pontassieve, with the easternmost of the<br />
routes crossing the Apennines in the Florentine countryside:<br />
the road leading to Forli by way of Dicomano, San Godenzo,<br />
and the Alpe di San Benedetto. Because of this, in the 14 th -<br />
century list of main roads and routes contained in the Statuto<br />
del Capitano del Popolo, it is also defined as the road that vadit<br />
versus Decomanum.
6 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Via Sancti Petri<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
(Florence)<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Quarata<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
230<br />
THE ITINERARY<br />
Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Elevation gain:<br />
500<br />
450<br />
400<br />
350<br />
300<br />
250<br />
200<br />
150<br />
100<br />
50<br />
00<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />
Junction with SP1
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 106,5<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve<br />
Waypoints: Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />
Distance: km 20.9<br />
Page 236<br />
Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana<br />
Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini<br />
Distance: km 17.6<br />
Page 242<br />
Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò<br />
Waypoints: San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello,<br />
San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />
Distance: km 18<br />
Page 246<br />
Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna<br />
Distance: km 19.2<br />
Page 250<br />
Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina<br />
Waypoints: Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />
Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />
Distance: km 19.3<br />
Page 254<br />
Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo)<br />
Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano<br />
Distance: km 11.5<br />
Page 258<br />
Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Distance: km 5.5<br />
The tour takes place mainly on asphalt secondary roads, and partially on grass<br />
and gravel paths. The route is well-marked; there are no problems of orientation.<br />
The hilly and piedmont area through which the route passes means that<br />
some legs (the Porta San Gallo-Pontassieve one and the Pontassieve-Pieve a<br />
Pitiana one) have substantial differences in elevation. This route unwinds in the<br />
hills of the Florentine Valdarno and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge.<br />
The landscape is of great beauty with hills characterized by vineyards and olive<br />
groves, as well as unique geomorphologic formations such as the Balze, or Gullies,<br />
of the Valdarno.<br />
Note: This tourist-like route is very simple from a technical point of view, although<br />
some legs are rather demanding from a physical one. 85% of the route<br />
goes along secondary asphalt roads with the remaining 15% on gravel and<br />
grass paths. There are no particular problems associated with the availability<br />
of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The route is well-marked and<br />
easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial road<br />
SP1, or the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two alternative routes are<br />
offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. It is recommended, however, that<br />
those walking along the route pay particular attention to complying with the<br />
rules of the road. The last stop on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds<br />
with the final leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary and a short stretch<br />
of it (from Quarata to Arezzo) is to be covered by bus.<br />
231
6 TH ITINERARY<br />
THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Via Sancti Petri<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
(Florence)<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Laterina<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
232<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence
BIKING ITINERARY<br />
Distance (route): km 112<br />
Level of technical difficulty: TC<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />
List of legs:<br />
Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve<br />
Waypoints: piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />
Distance: km 20.9<br />
Page 236<br />
Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pian di Scò<br />
Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini, Pieve a Pitiana, San Donato<br />
in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello, San Giovenale (CAI trail))<br />
Distance: km 35.6<br />
Page 242<br />
Leg 3: Pian di Scò – Laterina<br />
Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna,<br />
Loro Ciuffenna, Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />
Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />
Distance: km 38.5<br />
Page 250<br />
Leg 4: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata<br />
Distance: km 17<br />
Page 258<br />
A bike tour itinerary, mostly on asphalt roads with some sections on slightly<br />
rough and uneven gravel roads (level of technical difficulty, MC) for bikers with<br />
average technical ability. This route unwinds in the hills of the Florentine Valdarno<br />
and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge. The landscape is of great<br />
beauty characterized by vineyards and olive groves, as well as unique geomorphologic<br />
formations such as the Balze, or Gullies, of the Valdarno.<br />
Note: The course presents no particular technical difficulties, but requires good<br />
physical training because of the presence of steep climbs, especially on the leg<br />
from Florence to Pontassieve and the successive one that goes from Pontassieve<br />
to Pieve a Pitiana. 85% of the itinerary is also suitable for racing bikes, whereas<br />
in bumpy and uneven gravel stretches, it is necessary to use mountain bikes or<br />
robust city bikes. There are no particular problems associated with the availability<br />
of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The track is well-marked<br />
and easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial<br />
road SP1, also referred to as the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two<br />
alternative routes are offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. The last leg<br />
on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds with the final part of the<br />
Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.<br />
233<br />
Landscape along the route
Pontassieve: a Crossroads and Military Stronghold<br />
234<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Pontassieve was then a major crossroads; from the simple village<br />
formed near the bridge that crossed the Sieve River just before it<br />
flows into the Arno, in the second half of the 14 th century it was<br />
transformed into the terra sive castri Sancti Angeli, one of the<br />
military strongholds of the Florentine state, as still attested by<br />
the substantial remnants of its ancient defense system.<br />
The road started from the city suburb of San Pier Maggiore (a<br />
Burgo Sancti Petri Maioris) and proceeded parallel to the Arno<br />
River. The suburban parish of San Giovanni Battista a Remole<br />
developed along this route. It was no coincidence then if the villages<br />
that were part of the parish were indeed located in an area<br />
that expanded lengthwise, closely following the Arno. Along the<br />
road were villages (Terenzano, Compiobbi, San Donato a Torri,<br />
and Le Sieci) whose churches were suffragan to the Remole parish<br />
church, located shortly before Sant’Angelo di Sieve (namely,<br />
Pontassieve).<br />
After crossing the Sieve River, on the Medici bridge built in 1555,<br />
a route to the right followed the lower course of the Arno’s main<br />
tributary as far as Dicomano, then continuing towards the Abbey<br />
of San Godenzo. This was the route which crossed over the<br />
Apennines and led to Romagna via the Alpe di San Benedetto,<br />
a way that over the centuries saw the passage of travelers and<br />
goods, but not so many pilgrims, who preferred instead the Via<br />
dell’Alpe di Serra, a route to Rome that crossed the Apennines in<br />
the Casentino and had the decided advantage of leading directly<br />
to Rome.<br />
Ancient road to Settignano
The Via dei Sette Ponti<br />
(namely, the Road of the Seven Bridges)<br />
Near Pontassieve was also the Via dei Sette Ponti. Probably of<br />
Etruscan origin, this road was especially busy in the central part<br />
of the Middle Ages, not only because of the connections between<br />
Florence and the emerging centers in the surrounding<br />
countryside scattered on the slopes of Pratomagno but, to some<br />
extent, also as a route to Rome that, from Arezzo, offered the<br />
opportunity of following the Via dell’Alpe di Serra, an important<br />
alternative to the Via Francigena. It is no coincidence, therefore,<br />
that a document from the end of the 10 th century recalls the Via<br />
dei Sette Ponti as via Sancti Petri, i.e., a route used by pilgrims<br />
going to Rome.<br />
The road unwound along the Pratomagno foothills and was dotted<br />
by a significant array of rural churches (the close relationship<br />
between parish churches and the road network has been ascertained):<br />
San Pietro a Pitiana, San Pietro a Cascia, Santa Maria<br />
a Scò, San Pietro a Gropina, and San Giustino Valdarno. As a<br />
whole, these churches are the most important examples of Romanesque<br />
religious architecture in the Valdarno region.<br />
Past the parish church of San Giustino, near Castiglion Fibocchi,<br />
and before arriving in Arezzo, the road crossed the Arno on the<br />
majestic Buriano bridge, which has preserved its powerful medieval<br />
structure with seven wide arches.<br />
Parish Church of Gropina<br />
235
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 1:<br />
PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence)<br />
PONTASSIEVE<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 1<br />
Piazza Edison<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Il Mulinaccio<br />
Montebeni<br />
Settignano<br />
La Valle<br />
Calcinaia<br />
San Jacopo al Girone<br />
Compiobbi<br />
Castelnuovo<br />
Le Falle<br />
Magnale<br />
Le Sieci<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Rosano<br />
Pievecchia<br />
San Martino<br />
a Quona<br />
236<br />
Landscape along the route
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 480<br />
Distance: km 20.9<br />
Travel time: 6h30’<br />
This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads that run along the hills of the<br />
Florentine Valdarno. The route is thus readily identifiable and there are no orientation<br />
problems or difficulties in finding it. The leg crosses through hills characterized<br />
by alternating olive groves and vineyards, with scattered farm houses<br />
and historic villas. The route offers views of scenic interest (the hills between<br />
Settignano and Compiobbi and between Sieci and San Martino a Quona).<br />
Note: The leg is fairly physically demanding as there are many variations in altitude<br />
and because of the distance of this leg. In Pontassieve, one can continue<br />
by train to Contea in the municipality of Dicomano, (19 min) to stay at the<br />
Convent of San Detole.<br />
Transport:<br />
Florence<br />
Settignano<br />
Compiobbi<br />
Le Sieci<br />
Pontassieve<br />
To be seen:<br />
Church of San Martino a Mensola<br />
Panorama of Florence from Piazza Desiderio da Settignano<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista a Remole<br />
Detour ( from Sieci) to the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso<br />
237<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
238<br />
Road to Settignano
To reach the suburbs of Florence, we take the bike path from<br />
Piazza della Libertà that runs along Viale Don Minzoni. Then,<br />
using the Le Cure railway underpass, we reach Piazza delle Cure.<br />
Here we turn into Viale Alessandro Volta where another bike<br />
path takes us to Piazza Edison. Then we go along Viale Augusto<br />
Righi as far as the beginning of Via Lungo l’Affrico; here we take<br />
Via del Cantone which then becomes Via Benedetto da Maiano.<br />
Next we proceed along Via Gabriele D’Annunzio that leads us<br />
first to Coverciano and then to Ponte a Mensola, the village<br />
that stretches at the foot of the Settignano hill, with its early medieval<br />
church rich in precious paintings. After crossing the river<br />
that gives the place its name, we take the so-called Via Vecchia<br />
di Settignano that, lined by walls, leads to the picturesque village<br />
of Settignano.<br />
Church of San Martino a Mensola<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1<br />
239<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
Ponte a Mensola<br />
4.5 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
1.1 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Settignano<br />
0.6 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Terenzano<br />
3.4 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Compiobbi<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />
Battista a Remole - Le Sieci<br />
Church of San Martino a Quona<br />
4 km 3.8 km<br />
Time: 1h15’ Time: 1h25’<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Pontassieve<br />
www.vieromee.it
From Settignano, we take the CAI trail to reach Compiobbi,<br />
traveling through a hilly area and coming to the small village<br />
of Terenzano, with its Romanesque church and the remains of<br />
13 th -century tower-houses.<br />
To avoid heavily trafficked State Road 67 that runs alongside<br />
the Arno to Pontassieve, from Compiobbi we go up towards<br />
San Donato a Torri and then return to the state road in Ellera,<br />
following it for a short distance as far as the small town of Le<br />
Sieci; here a pedestrian path along the Arno leads us to the Romanesque<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista a Remole.<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1<br />
From Le Sieci, a road branches off that goes up the course of<br />
the river from which the small town derived its name and leads,<br />
via Molin del Piano and past the parish church of Lobaco, to the<br />
Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso, a lesser place of pilgrimage<br />
which had yet a considerable local importance.<br />
Returning to Le Sieci, we leave the state road to climb to the<br />
Remole Farm and then onward to the Church of San Martino<br />
a Quona, from where, shortly after, we come to Pontassieve, a<br />
large walled town of the Florentine republic whose importance<br />
derived from its being a regional crossroads. It is no coincidence<br />
that in the 14 th century, Pontassieve had several innkeepers as<br />
well as a pilgrims’ hospice dedicated to Saint Mary.<br />
Along the Arno near Pontassieve<br />
240<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />
Ponte a Mensola<br />
4.5 km<br />
Time: 1h10’<br />
1.1 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Settignano<br />
0.6 km<br />
Time: 10’<br />
Terenzano<br />
3.4 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Compiobbi<br />
Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />
Battista a Remole - Le Sieci<br />
Church of San Martino a Quona<br />
4 km 3.8 km<br />
Time: 1h15’ Time: 1h25’<br />
3.5 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Pontassieve
DEVOTION<br />
The Madonna Appearing to Two Young Shepherdesses<br />
On the location where the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso<br />
now stands there was originally a tabernacle, known as the Hermit’s.<br />
Beginning in the 11 th century, its veneration so intensified<br />
that it became necessary to build a small oratory. Here, tradition<br />
has it, the Madonna appeared to two young shepherdesses in<br />
1484. The request for a larger church in which to dispense graces<br />
to those deserving them was expressed by the Madonna herself<br />
and confirmed in a grand appearance to the entire congregation<br />
gathered in prayer on 22 August, 1485.<br />
This was the origin of the sanctuary’s current complex, consisting<br />
of two main buildings: the lower oratory (or Chapel of the<br />
Apparitions) and the upper oratory (or New Church); the latter,<br />
a larger building with a Greek-cross plan, was renovated in the<br />
Baroque period. Other buildings were added over the centuries to<br />
meet the needs of the growing number of pilgrims who flocked<br />
to the sanctuary: a portico, the chaplain’s house, the rooms of the<br />
companies, and a slaughterhouse. The latter was the place where<br />
animals were sacrificed in rites of propitiation and of thanksgiving<br />
in May and during harvests.<br />
Drawing of the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso<br />
241
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 2:<br />
PONTASSIEVE<br />
PIEVE A PITIANA<br />
Risalpiano<br />
La Fornace<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 2<br />
San Francesco<br />
Diacceto<br />
Ferrano<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Monsecco<br />
Le Palaie<br />
Pelago<br />
Corte<br />
Certina<br />
Paterno<br />
Pagiano<br />
Tosi<br />
Masseto<br />
Poggio al Secolo<br />
242<br />
Donnini<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
LEG 2 to<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
see page 246<br />
The Medicean Bridge in Pontassieve
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />
Climb: m 630<br />
Distance: km 17.6<br />
Travel time: 5h40’<br />
75% of this leg is along asphalt roads with the remaining 25% on farm cartroads.<br />
There are thus no problems in identifying the route. This leg follows<br />
narrow dirt tracks amidst vineyards of remarkable beauty.<br />
Note: This leg is technically simple but physically challenging, due to significant<br />
elevation gain variations. The route follows some parts of the Via dei Sette Ponti,<br />
where particular attention must be paid to motor vehicles and the rules of the<br />
road must be observed.<br />
Transport:<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Diacceto<br />
Pelago<br />
Paterno<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
To be seen:<br />
Nipozzano Castle, wine cellar and vineyards<br />
Village of Pelago<br />
San Martino a Pagiano<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Pitiana<br />
243<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
244<br />
Above: Pelago’s main square / Below: Tabernacle along the itinerary
After crossing the Sieve River at Pontassieve over the ancient<br />
16 th -century bridge, we pass the small town of San Francesco, a<br />
suburb of Pontassieve, and take a secondary road, from a parallel<br />
of the state road, leading to Diacceto and then to Pelago by<br />
way of Palaie Vecchie.<br />
From Pelago, we take the road to Paterno, a village that was<br />
the site of a Vallombrosan grange, and then a secondary route<br />
that leads to San Martino a Pagiano, a small village that rose<br />
at a medieval bridge that crosses the Vicano di Sant’Ellero River.<br />
We go up in the direction of the Sette Ponti Road, which we<br />
reach in Donnini. We continue on the ancient and winding<br />
route to arrive at the Parish Church of San Pietro a Pitiana,<br />
which preserves traces of the original Romanesque structure<br />
with one nave and two aisles.<br />
Parish Church of Pitiana<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 2<br />
245<br />
Pontassieve<br />
4.4 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Nipozzano castle<br />
4.1 km<br />
Time: 1h25’<br />
Pelago<br />
2.7 km<br />
Time: 55’<br />
Paterno<br />
5.2 km<br />
Time: 1h40’<br />
Donnini<br />
1.2 km<br />
Time: 20’<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
www.vieromee.it
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 3:<br />
PIEVE A PITIANA<br />
PIAN DI SCO’<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
I Fali<br />
Continuing of LEG 2<br />
see page 242<br />
Trana<br />
Trebbiali<br />
I Sorbi<br />
San Donato in Fronzano<br />
La Fabbrica<br />
La Corte<br />
Parish Church<br />
of Sant’Agata<br />
Cancelli<br />
Poggio Giubbiani<br />
Reggello<br />
Cascia<br />
Borgo a Cascia<br />
Tallini<br />
San Giovenale<br />
(CAI trail)<br />
Ferraia<br />
Casa Biondo<br />
246<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Ancient bridge over the Resco River in Pian di Scò
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
Elenco:<br />
San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello,<br />
San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 250<br />
Distance: km 18<br />
Travel time: 5h05’<br />
The leg goes mainly along the Via dei Setteponti and only partly along CAI trails.<br />
Therefore the route is easily identified without problems of orientation. This leg<br />
is not particularly challenging.<br />
Note: Along the SP1 road, pay attention to the traffic and follow the rules of<br />
the road regarding pedestrians traveling on out-of-town roads.<br />
To join up with the CAI trail that starts from San Giovenale, we cross the stone<br />
bridge and turn right; then, turn right under the bridge after about 30 m.<br />
Transport:<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
To be seen:<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia, Reggello<br />
Parish Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli<br />
Abbey of Vallombrosa ( Reggello)<br />
247<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
Leaving the parish church of San Pietro a Pitiana and continuing<br />
along, we arrive in San Donato in Fronzano. Shortly after we<br />
take the secondary road to the right, which leads to the Romanesque<br />
Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli, the seat of a canonical<br />
community in the Middle Ages. We continue along as we pass<br />
through Cancelli where we again take up the Setteponti road in<br />
Reggello, a village where the existence of a hospice dedicated<br />
to St. John, found in the market square, was documented in<br />
the 15 th century.<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 3<br />
Continuing past Reggello, we come to the Parish Church of<br />
San Pietro a Cascia, one of the most important Romanesque<br />
buildings of the Valdarno. A hospice was annexed to it and was<br />
first recorded in the 14 th century as a dormentorio plebis Cascie.<br />
In San Giovenale, we take the CAI trail along which are two<br />
medieval bridges that cross, respectively, the Borro Pilano and<br />
the Resco Rivers. The trail then brings us to the village of Pian di<br />
Scò, built around the Parish Church of Santa Maria, another<br />
of the main Romanesque buildings in the Valdarno.<br />
Parish Church of Santa Maria<br />
248<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
6.5 km<br />
Time: 1h50’<br />
Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli<br />
4.3 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Reggello<br />
1.5 km<br />
Time: 20’<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 1h40’<br />
Pian di Scò
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />
The Abbey of Vallombrosa<br />
Shortly before arriving in Reggello, a road on the left goes up the<br />
slopes of Pratomagno and, near the ridge, reaches Vallombrosa,<br />
one of the destinations on the alternative roads of our itinerary.<br />
It was precisely in Vallombrosa that Saint John Gualbert retired<br />
in 1036; he was the founder of the reformed Benedictine order<br />
which took its name from this location. The first monastic community<br />
of the new congregation was established here and, between<br />
the 11 th and 13 th centuries, it spread in Tuscany and in most<br />
of north-central Italy.<br />
The impressive architectural complex of the abbey stands against<br />
the backdrop of a mountainous landscape; it is the result of subsequent<br />
reconstructions and expansions that occurred over the<br />
centuries and which essentially ended in the first half of the 17th<br />
century with the work of Gherardo Silvani, the architect also responsible<br />
for the Baroque-style renovation of the abbey church.<br />
The hub of the Vallombrosan congregation, the abbey, is full of<br />
memories related to Benedictine spirituality as well as works of art<br />
mostly from the 17 th and 18 th centuries.<br />
The forest of Vallombrosa that frames the abbey is a further reason<br />
in favor of the alternative route that we are suggesting.<br />
Abbey of Vallombrosa<br />
249
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 4:<br />
PIAN DI SCÒ<br />
LORO CIUFFENNA<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Starting point<br />
of LEG 3<br />
Pulicciano<br />
Faellina<br />
Castelfranco<br />
di Sopra<br />
Caspri<br />
Piantravigne<br />
Treggia<br />
Persignano<br />
Certignano<br />
HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />
LEG 3 to<br />
Laterina<br />
see page 254<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Poggitazzi<br />
Montemarciano<br />
Villa Riofi<br />
Penna<br />
Poderino<br />
250<br />
Pernina<br />
Soffena Abbey in Castelfranco di Sopra
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 230<br />
Distance: km 19.2<br />
Travel time: 5h 20’<br />
This tourist-style leg initially goes along the ancient Setteponti road which we<br />
later leave to follow an alternative route immediately after Certignano, heading<br />
southwest towards Piantravigne. We then go south again towards Penna to<br />
then head north towards Loro Ciuffenna. This leg is characterized by the many<br />
panoramic points over the agricultural landscape of the upper Valdarno and<br />
its characteristic pinnacles of eroded clay typical of the Valdarno Gullies. The<br />
stretch winds in the foothills with some elevation gains. The route presents no<br />
particular technical difficulties.<br />
Note: The water supply is provided by the refreshment structures that exist<br />
along the route. This leg is more appropriate for cycling than hiking.<br />
Transport:<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
To be seen:<br />
Village of Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
Village of Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Clay gullies of Piantravigne<br />
251<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
252<br />
West Gate of Castelfranco di Sopra
After Pian di Scò, we continue to wind along the Sette Ponti<br />
road, until we come to Castelfranco di Sopra, the “terra nuova”<br />
founded by the Florentines in the early 14 th century, whose<br />
original urban plan and fortifications have been preserved almost<br />
intact. Not far from the town is the 13 th -century Abbey of<br />
San Salvatore a Soffena that belonged to the Vallombrosan<br />
congregation.<br />
Then we come to the village of Loro Ciuffenna; previously an important<br />
market town, it has retained a picturesque medieval bridge<br />
over which the Sette Ponti road crosses the Ciuffenna River.<br />
Stone-paved road along the way<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 4<br />
253<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
4.1 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
1.6 km<br />
Time: 25’<br />
Certignano<br />
0.8 km<br />
Time: 15’<br />
Piantravigne<br />
3.3 km<br />
Time: 50’<br />
Villa Riofi<br />
5.7 km<br />
Time: 1h35’<br />
Penna<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
3.7 km<br />
Time: 1h15<br />
www.vieromee.it
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 5:<br />
LORO CIUFFENNA<br />
LATERINA<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Gropina<br />
Continuing of LEG 3<br />
see page 250<br />
Penna<br />
Paterna<br />
San Giustino<br />
La Casaccia<br />
Traiana<br />
Cicogna<br />
Ricastelli<br />
Campogialli<br />
HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />
Castiglion Fibocchi<br />
254<br />
Monticello<br />
Valle dell’Inferno<br />
and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />
Montalto<br />
Casanuova<br />
Podere Stefanelli<br />
Laterina<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Loro Ciuffenna
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve,<br />
Podere Stefanelli<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 100<br />
Distance: km 19.3<br />
Travel time: 5h15’<br />
This is a tourist-style leg that goes mainly along narrow and winding asphalt<br />
roads. Some stretches of dirt road are encountered near the village of Gropina,<br />
in the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve as well as in the stretch between<br />
Laterina and the provincial road. The leg offers panoramic points on the Valdarno.<br />
There are therefore no orientation difficulties or problems in identifying<br />
the route. The route does not have technical difficulties.<br />
Note: After a short initial climb, this leg descends to the small village of Gropina.<br />
We continue along the SP1 in a southerly direction and after about 2 km, we<br />
leave the historical route to continue downhill to Monticello. After the bridge<br />
over Lake Levane, we climb through the oak woods to re-join the historic Via<br />
Vecchia Aretina in Ponte Romito. We continue to follow it for 2.8 km before<br />
reaching Laterina. Along the leg, there are restaurants, bars and fountains that<br />
provide water.<br />
Transport:<br />
Monticello<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
To be seen:<br />
Monumental Parish Church of Gropina<br />
Visitor Center, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve - Monticello<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />
Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina)<br />
Walk along the ancient castle walls with a panorama of the lower Valdarno<br />
255<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
Not far from Loro Ciuffenna stands the monumental Parish<br />
Church of San Pietro a Gropina, a church that – for the grandeur<br />
of its layout and the complex iconography of its capitals – is<br />
unquestionably one of the most important Romanesque buildings<br />
in the Tuscan countryside.<br />
After Gropina, continuing on the slopes of Pratomagno, we can<br />
follow the historic route along the Setteponti road and visit the<br />
village of San Giustino Valdarno, in which we find the homonymous<br />
parish church with a basilica plan that has maintained<br />
almost intact its original Romanesque characteristics.<br />
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 5<br />
Our route instead heads for Laterina, passing Cicogna, Monticello<br />
and the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve. Beyond<br />
Laterina, we retrace the route of Leg 5 of the 5 th itinerary to<br />
arrive in Arezzo (shown in the following pages).<br />
Parish Church of San Giustino<br />
256<br />
www.vieromee.it<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 40’<br />
Parish Church of San Pietro a Gropina<br />
5.3 km<br />
Time: 1h20’<br />
Cicogna<br />
4.8 km<br />
Time: 1h15’<br />
Monticello<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />
3.8 km<br />
Time: 1h<br />
Podere Stefanelli<br />
1.8 km<br />
Time: 30’<br />
Laterina
Above: Parish Church of Gropina / Below: Stone-paved road along the way<br />
257
6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />
Leg 6:<br />
LATERINA<br />
QUARATA (AREZZO)<br />
HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />
Castiglion Fibocchi<br />
Godiola<br />
Junction with SP1<br />
Laterina<br />
Rondine<br />
Monte Sopra Rondine<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
Quarata<br />
Patrignone<br />
Indicatore<br />
Pratai<br />
Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />
258<br />
The Arno along the route
WALKING ITINERARY<br />
List of waypoints:<br />
Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano<br />
Level of technical difficulty: T<br />
Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />
Climb: m 170<br />
Distance: km 11.5<br />
Travel time: 3h15’<br />
Tourist-style leg that proceeds mainly on asphalt roads. Some dirt sections are<br />
encountered shortly after Laterina and at the detour from the Via Vecchia Aretina<br />
that leads to Rondine. The route is well marked and poses no difficulties or<br />
orientation problems.<br />
Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti<br />
provincial road, we come to the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km.<br />
From this point people traveling on foot are advised to proceed to Arezzo by<br />
bus (www.etruriamobilita.it).<br />
This leg corresponds to the last leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.<br />
Transport:<br />
Laterina<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
Quarata<br />
Arezzo<br />
To be seen:<br />
Village of Rondine<br />
Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve<br />
Ponte a Buriano<br />
Arezzo<br />
259<br />
LEGS<br />
Leg 1<br />
Porta San Gallo<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Leg 2<br />
Pontassieve<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Leg 3<br />
pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Leg 4<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Leg 5<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Laterina<br />
Leg 6<br />
Laterina<br />
Arezzo
IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />
The Via dell’Alpe di Serra<br />
From the 13 th century on, the Via dell’Alpe di Serra was especially<br />
busy owing to the increased importance of traffic from central<br />
Europe. Documentary sources from the 13 th century consider it<br />
one of the main pilgrim routes to Rome, and indeed indicate it as<br />
the best route (the “melior via”), especially for pilgrims and travelers<br />
from the Germanic world. The Annales Stadenses (mid-13 th<br />
century), considered the most comprehensive guide to Rome of<br />
the Middle Ages, besides suggesting it to pilgrims to Rome, show<br />
the succession of stopping places between Bologna and Rome,<br />
which permits us to broadly reconstruct the route. After passing<br />
Forlì and Bagno di Romagna, the road climbed the Apennines,<br />
and crossed them at the Alpe di Serra pass. It then descended to<br />
the Casentino, reaching first, Subbiano and then, Arezzo. Then<br />
it continued to Cortona, Città della Pieve, and Orvieto. From the<br />
latter, one could reach nearby Montefiascone where the Via Francigena<br />
leading to Rome passed.<br />
<strong>Vie</strong>w of Poppi and the Casentino<br />
260
ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />
Florence Settignano<br />
Ostello di Florence<br />
Viale Augusto Righi, 2/4<br />
50137 Florence<br />
Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300<br />
info@ostelloFlorence.it<br />
Villa Morghen<br />
Via Feliceto, 8<br />
50135 Settignano<br />
Tel: 055 697362<br />
www.villamorghen.com<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Albergo I Villini<br />
Viale Diaz, 28<br />
50065 Pontassieve<br />
Tel: 055 8368140 - Fax: 055 8368140<br />
hotel@ivillini.it<br />
www.ivillini.it<br />
Convento di Sandetole<br />
Via A. Cecchini, 46<br />
50060 Contea - Dicomano<br />
Tel: 055 8389789 - Fax: 055 8389514<br />
Cell: 335 7747903<br />
sandetole@tiscali.it<br />
www.sandetole.it<br />
Parrocchia San Giovanni Gualberto<br />
Via Algeri, 5<br />
50065 Pontassieve<br />
Tel: 055 8368150<br />
parroco 055 8313356<br />
Podere Palazzuolo<br />
Via di Gricigliano, 47<br />
Le Falle - Sieci<br />
50065 Pontassieve<br />
Tel: 055 8309812<br />
agripalazzuolo@libero.it<br />
www.poderepalazzuolo.it<br />
Pieve a Pitiana<br />
Pieve di Pitiana<br />
50066 Reggello<br />
Tel: 055 860039<br />
Villa Pitiana Agriturismo<br />
Via Provinciale per Tosi, 7<br />
50060 Donnini<br />
Tel: 055 860259 - Fax: 055 860326<br />
info@villapitiana.com<br />
www.villapitiana.com<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Agriturismo Fattoria Gravanella<br />
Strada Provinciale 7 ponti, 59<br />
52026 Pian di Sco’<br />
Cell: 328 1542424 - Fax: 055 960053<br />
info@gravanella.it<br />
B&B Guardalaluna<br />
Via Marconi, 109 - Poggio Bonetti, 5<br />
52026 Pian di Sco’<br />
Tel: 055 9631006<br />
Fax: 0559631006<br />
www.guardalaluna.com<br />
Parrocchia S.Maria Assunta<br />
a Pian di Scò<br />
52026 Pian di Sco’<br />
Tel: 055 960133<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Affittacamere Il Torricino<br />
Via Valdascione, 1<br />
52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 0575 89219<br />
Agriturismo Fattoria Isola<br />
Via Aretina, 70<br />
52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 0575 894785<br />
Agriturismo Il Mulinaccio<br />
Mulinaccio, 64<br />
52024 Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Tel: 055 9139278<br />
www.mulinaccio.com<br />
Agriturismo Il Poggerello<br />
Via Penna, 14<br />
52020 Laterina<br />
Cell: 335 6839009<br />
Agriturismo Toscana Verde<br />
Via Penna, 2<br />
52020 Laterina<br />
Tel: 0575 89571<br />
Fax: 0575 895750<br />
info@toscanaverde.com<br />
www.toscanaverde.com<br />
Ostello Orma di lupo<br />
via Vin de Nuvoli - la Trappola<br />
52024 Loro Ciuffenna<br />
www.ormadilupo.it<br />
Arezzo<br />
Affittacamere Camera Caffè<br />
Via Guido Monaco, 92<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Cell: 347 0324405 - 392 5911326<br />
info@cameracaffe.net<br />
www.cameracaffe.net<br />
Casa vacanze Il Pascione<br />
Via Setteponti, 40<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 356128<br />
Cell: 334 9557291<br />
www.ilpascione.it<br />
261
262<br />
Foresteria I Pratacci<br />
Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 383338<br />
Fax: 0575 324219<br />
Cell: 335 7505504<br />
www.foresteriarezzo.com<br />
Foresteria San Pier Piccolo<br />
Via Bicchieraia, 32<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 324219<br />
www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it<br />
Fraternità San Lorenzo<br />
Pomaio<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 793811<br />
Ostello Villa Severi<br />
Via F. Redi, 13<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 299047<br />
TOURIST INFORMATION<br />
Pontassieve PIT (Tourist information Point)<br />
Via Tanzini, 30<br />
50065 Pontassieve (Florence)<br />
Tel: 0558360232<br />
www.Florenceturismo.it<br />
info@comune.pontassieve.fi.it<br />
Tourist information, Municipality of Pelago<br />
Viale Rimembranza, 9<br />
50060 Pelago (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8326236<br />
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays:<br />
8.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.<br />
www.comune.pelago.fi.it<br />
affarigenerali@comune.pelago.fi.it<br />
Reggello PIT (Tourist information Point)<br />
Piazza IV Novembre, 3<br />
50066 Reggello (Florence)<br />
Tel: 0558669368<br />
www.comune.reggello.fi.it<br />
www.Florenceturismo.it<br />
informazionituristiche@reggello.org<br />
Fiesole UIT (Tourist Information Office)<br />
Via Portigiani, 3<br />
50014 Fiesole (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 598720<br />
www.Florenceturismo.it<br />
info.turismo@comune.fiesole.fi.it<br />
Municipality of Pian di Scò<br />
Piazza del Municipio, 3<br />
52026 Pian di Sco’ (Arezzo)<br />
Tel: 055 9631290<br />
www.comune.pian-di-sco.ar.it<br />
Ufficio Turismo Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
c/o Biblioteca “Aldo Merlini”<br />
Piazza Livio Sati, 2<br />
52020 Castelfranco di Sopra (Arezzo)<br />
Tel: 055 9149392<br />
www.comune.castelfranco-di-sopra.ar.it/<br />
comunebiblioteca@libero.it<br />
Loro Ciuffenna UIT<br />
(Tourist Information Office)<br />
Piazza Matteotti, 7<br />
52024 Loro Ciuffenna (Arezzo)<br />
Tel: 0559170136<br />
www.comune.loro-ciuffenna.ar.it<br />
info.turismo@comune.loro-ciuffenna.ar.it<br />
Pro Loco Loro Ciufenna<br />
piazza Garibaldi, 52024 - Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Tel: 055 9172771<br />
Laterina Tourist Information Office<br />
Tel: 0575 880120 - Fax: 0575 894626<br />
comune@comune.laterina.ar.it<br />
Tourist Information,<br />
Municipality of Castiglion Fibocchi<br />
Tel: 0575 47484<br />
www.comune.castiglionfibocchi.ar.it<br />
UPT San Giovanni Valdarno<br />
Piazza Cavour, 3<br />
Tel: 055 943748 - Tel. e Fax: 055 9121123<br />
infovaldarno@apt.arezzo.it<br />
Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
Tel: 0559194705<br />
Tourist Information Point<br />
Terranuova Bracciolini<br />
Tel: 055 9738828<br />
www.terraospitale.it<br />
infoturismovaldarno@gmail.com<br />
APT di Arezzo<br />
Piazza Risorgimento, 116<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575239523<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
apt@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />
Infopoint di Arezzo<br />
Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575377829<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
Arezzo UIT (Tourist Information Office)<br />
Piazza della Repubblica, 28<br />
52100 Arezzo<br />
Tel: 0575 377678<br />
www.apt.arezzo.it<br />
info@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it
Bike Rentals<br />
Mille e una bici<br />
Service sponsored by the City of Florence<br />
in collaboration with Florence Parcheggi<br />
s.p.a. providing affordable bicycle rentals<br />
in Florence at 8 locations.<br />
Tel: 055 5001994<br />
Alinari<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500<br />
www.alinarirental.com<br />
Florence by bike<br />
Bike and scooter rental<br />
Via S. Zanobi, 120/122r<br />
Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />
www.florencebybike.it<br />
Rent Way<br />
P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />
50122 - Florence<br />
Tel: 0552398890 - Cell: 3339619820<br />
www.rentway.it<br />
info@rentway.it<br />
B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental)<br />
Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4<br />
50126 Florence<br />
Cell: 348 2644190<br />
www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com<br />
liulamp@libero.it<br />
Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental)<br />
Via del Carota, 3<br />
50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923<br />
www.lecivetteresort.it<br />
info@lecivetteresort.it<br />
Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental)<br />
Via Montelfi, 1<br />
50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8335143<br />
www.agriturismobellavista.com<br />
info@agriturismobellavista.com<br />
Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental)<br />
Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi<br />
52027 San Giovanni Valdarno (Arezzo)<br />
Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804<br />
Cell: 335 1250857<br />
www.agriturismovalleverde.com<br />
info@agriturismovalleverde.com<br />
Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental)<br />
Via Poggetto, 143<br />
50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence)<br />
Tel: 055 8327323<br />
www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />
info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />
Events and fairs<br />
Arezzo<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato<br />
(7 August)<br />
Giostra del Saracino<br />
(June and September)<br />
Castelfranco di Sopra<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso<br />
(3 July)<br />
Castiglion Fibocchi<br />
Feast of the Madonna del Rosario<br />
(October)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro e<br />
Paolo (29 June)<br />
Fiesole<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />
(6 July)<br />
San Francesco Fair<br />
(first Sunday of October)<br />
Laterina<br />
Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito<br />
e Cassiano (18 August)<br />
Nativity scenes in Laterina (December)<br />
Laterina Ponticino<br />
Palio della rana (Last Sunday in June)<br />
Loro Ciuffenna<br />
Festa del Perdono (September)<br />
Loro Ciuffenna San Giustino<br />
Festa del Perdono (July)<br />
Pelago<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Clemente<br />
(23 November)<br />
Pian di Scò<br />
Festa del Perdono (4-8 August)<br />
Feast of the Assumption (15 August)<br />
Pontassieve<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele<br />
Arcangelo (29 September)<br />
San Lorenzo Fair (10 August)<br />
Palio della Botte (September)<br />
Reggello<br />
Rificolona (7 September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, San Jacopo,<br />
(25 July)<br />
Vaggio, near Reggello<br />
Festa del Perdono in Vaggio (July)<br />
Terranova Bracciolini<br />
Festa del Perdono (25-29 September)<br />
Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio<br />
(13 June)<br />
263
www.vieromee.it<br />
€ 14,00