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Edited by Renato Stopani<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong><br />

routes<br />

in the Florentine countryside<br />

TUSCANY


in the Florentine countryside


<strong>Pilgrim</strong> routes in the Florentine countryside<br />

Edited by Renato Stopani<br />

Texts by<br />

Renato Stopani, Alessandra Cavallini, Claudio Fagarazzi<br />

Graphic project, pagination, image processing<br />

Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva<br />

Illustrations<br />

Massimo Tosi<br />

Photos courtesy of<br />

Renato Stopani, Massimo Tosi, Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze,<br />

Andrea Dini, Apt Arezzo, Apt Siena, Giuditta Marsili<br />

and Leonardo Tarchiani<br />

Copyright © 2010 by<br />

Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze/Casa Editrice Le Lettere<br />

ISBN 88 6087 269 3<br />

www.lelettere.it<br />

www.vieromee.it


A project by Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze<br />

With the contribution of<br />

Tuscan Region<br />

Province of Florence<br />

Province of Arezzo<br />

Province of Siena<br />

In collaboration with the Municipalities of:<br />

Arezzo<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Barberino del Mugello<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />

Borgo San Lorenzo<br />

Campi Bisenzio<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Castelnuovo Berardenga<br />

Certaldo<br />

Colle Val d’Elsa<br />

Empoli<br />

Fiesole<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Greve in Chianti<br />

Impruneta<br />

Incisa Valdarno<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Laterina<br />

Project partners<br />

Municipality of Florence<br />

University of Florence<br />

Istituto Geografico Militare<br />

Archdiocese of Florence<br />

Diocese of Siena<br />

Diocese of Arezzo<br />

Diocese of Fiesole<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Montelupo Fiorentino<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Pelago<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Radda in Chianti<br />

Reggello<br />

Rignano sull’Arno<br />

San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

Scarperia<br />

Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Signa<br />

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

Vaglia<br />

Scientific committee<br />

Claudio Leonardi, Antonio Paolucci, Fabrizio Porcinai, Renato Stopani<br />

Supervision<br />

Antonio Gherdovich<br />

Coordination<br />

Marcella Antonini<br />

General Organization<br />

Alessandra Cavallini<br />

Scientific coordination<br />

Renato Stopani, Claudio Fagarazzi<br />

On-site research and survey<br />

Giuditta Marsili, Leonardo Tarchiani<br />

Operational management<br />

Silvia Zonnedda, Simona Pozzoli<br />

Press Office<br />

Letter@ Comunicazione Integrata<br />

Graphic project and image, website and digital media<br />

Sesamo Comunicazione Visiva<br />

English translation<br />

English Workshop - Firenze


TABLE OF CONTENTS<br />

Introduction P. 8<br />

How to Use the Guide >> 10<br />

Useful Information >> 12<br />

Definitions and Directional Signs >> 13<br />

THE HISTORY<br />

Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network >> 17<br />

The Ten Main Roads of the Florentine Republic >> 19<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes in the Florentine Countryside >> 20<br />

1200: Florence, an Important Stop on the Way to Rome >> 22<br />

The Rise of Hospices in the City of Florence >> 23<br />

FLORENCE, THE URBAN TOUR >> 25<br />

THE VIA SANESE<br />

Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena >> 41<br />

6<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina >> 48<br />

Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi >> 54<br />

Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio >> 58<br />

Leg 3, Alternative route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio >> 62<br />

Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti >> 64<br />

Leg 4, Alternative route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta >> 68<br />

Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena) >> 74<br />

THE VIA PISANA<br />

and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa >> 81<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa >> 88<br />

Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli >> 94<br />

Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino >> 100<br />

Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo >> 106<br />

Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Oliveto Castle >> 110<br />

Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi >> 112<br />

Legs 4 / 5, Alternative route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi >> 118<br />

Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni >> 122<br />

Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza del Campo (Siena) >> 126


THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

The <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Route to Rome in the 13 th Century P. 135<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello) >> 142<br />

Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario >> 150<br />

Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata >> 154<br />

Leg 3, Local Itineraries:<br />

Lake Bilancino – Cafaggiolo – Scarperia >> 158<br />

Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola >> 164<br />

Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio >> 170<br />

Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass >> 174<br />

Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata >> 178<br />

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

The Itinerary to Loreto >> 185<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi >> 192<br />

Local Itinerary: Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna<br />

Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina >> 198<br />

Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno >> 204<br />

Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi >> 212<br />

Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina >> 218<br />

Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 222<br />

THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Via Sancti Petri >> 229<br />

7<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve >> 236<br />

Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana >> 242<br />

Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò >> 246<br />

Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna >> 250<br />

Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina >> 254<br />

Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo) >> 258


Introduction<br />

8<br />

Walking around the Florentine countryside, along the ancient<br />

pilgrim roads to Rome is to relive the experience of a “slow”<br />

journey, rich with the stories of people and places, art and history,<br />

nature and tradition, reflection and spirituality.<br />

This is the aim of the project to promote these pilgrim roads<br />

to Rome.<br />

Six itineraries that leave from Florence and intersect the Via Francigena,<br />

the Via dell’Alpe di Serra and other main religious thoroughfares<br />

of the past.<br />

The Florentine countryside – a term that describes the dioceses<br />

of Florence and Fiesole, an area controlled by the city of Florence<br />

as far back as the 13 th century – was an integral part of the<br />

network of pilgrim roads that profoundly marked all of Tuscany<br />

during the course of the Middle Ages.<br />

The Via Francigena – the quintessential via peregrinalis – did not<br />

pass through Florence as it crossed the westernmost part of Tuscany.<br />

Nevertheless, Florence was connected to this thoroughfare<br />

through roads that intersected it in the Val d’Elsa or Siena. Thus,<br />

some important roads in the Florentine Republic became pilgrim<br />

routes in all respects.<br />

Later, Florence – given also its growing importance as an economic<br />

and political “power” – acquired an increasingly greater<br />

role in the flow of pilgrims heading to Rome. Already at the time<br />

of the first Jubilees, in fact, the majority of pilgrims from all over<br />

Europe who went to Rome passed through Florence. From that<br />

time on, the city increasingly attracted wayfarers of the Via Francigena:<br />

all the main roads and routes, that radiated from the city,<br />

were covered by romei, or pilgrims going to Rome; therefore numerous<br />

hospices and other accommodation facilities were built<br />

in the city, which are still visible in part today amidst the modern<br />

buildings.<br />

After careful historical research that retraced the routes in the<br />

region, here are the itineraries, reborn to be offered anew to<br />

today’s wayfarers:<br />

the Via Sanese which connects Florence and Siena, from where,<br />

returning to the Via Francigena, one continued to Rome;<br />

the Via Pisana, one followed as far as Empoli, and the Francigena<br />

Nova in the lower Val d’Elsa;<br />

the Strada dei Sette Ponti (or Road of the Seven Bridges) and<br />

the Via Vecchia Aretina, going along opposite sides of the upper<br />

Valdarno and both used to link up with the so-called Via<br />

dell’Alpe di Serra near Arezzo;<br />

the Via Vecchia Bolognese, the Bologna-Florence thoroughfare<br />

that began to gain importance in the 13 th century as it began to<br />

replace the Via Francigena as the preferred route to Rome;<br />

an urban itinerary, inside the city of Florence lined with ancient<br />

hospices on the road that led from Porta San Gallo to Porta San<br />

Pier Gattolino (the current Porta Romana), crossing through the


oldest part of the city, then over the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.<br />

All the suburban itineraries radiate out from Florence, starting<br />

from the gates of the city’s 14 th -century walls.<br />

The pilgrim of today can travel again on these ancient roads, following<br />

the suggestions and rich historical material in this guide.<br />

With its 560 km. of routes based on a system of foot and bike<br />

paths, the guide – with abundant historical insights and pilgrimage<br />

accounts – opens the door to the discovery of sometimes<br />

little known corners in the area of Florence and its surroundings.<br />

In addition to the guide, the project of the pilgrim roads to<br />

Rome has also created the web site www.vieromee.it that integrates,<br />

expands, and updates useful information on the pilgrim<br />

routes. Multimedia, an information exchange, and maps can be<br />

found on the site, with the possibility of downloading tracks for<br />

traditional GPS. In addition, the site may also be visited using<br />

GPS-equipped cell phones, thus enabling online consultation of<br />

the routes.<br />

Like the principal historical itineraries, the ancient pilgrim roads<br />

to Rome are also identified by a logo that is meant to accompany<br />

the pilgrim along the itineraries: the symbol of a “benedictory<br />

hand”, the sign of good fortune once exchanged by wayfarers<br />

as they traveled towards the destination of their pilgrimage.<br />

The ancient pilgrim roads to Rome – a project sponsored by the<br />

Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze in collaboration with the Tuscan<br />

Region, the provinces and tourism offices of Arezzo, Florence<br />

and Siena, the municipalities of the areas concerned, the<br />

University of Florence, the Istituto Geografico Militare, and the<br />

Archdiocese of Florence – represent an alternative cultural and<br />

tourist offering that responds to an ever-growing demand of informed<br />

and attentive visitors who practice a form of sustainable<br />

tourism that respects the environment.<br />

9<br />

Have a good trip!


How to Use the Guide<br />

After a short historical introduction, an overview of the itineraries<br />

is given with specific information on distance, elevation<br />

gain, and the overall level of difficulty.<br />

Two maps illustrate each itinerary: one is for walking routes and<br />

one for biking routes. Maps are not drawn to scale.<br />

A complete and exhaustive list of the accommodation facilities<br />

in each place is available on the www.vieromee.it internet site.<br />

The itineraries are broken into legs; each leg corresponds to the<br />

distance that can be covered either on foot or by bicycle in one<br />

day, keeping in mind the length and types of terrain.<br />

The technical description for each leg of the walks contains<br />

traveling times, a description, and a list of possible difficulties<br />

as well as pointing out some places to see and information<br />

on public transport. The “navigator”, under the description<br />

of each stage, shows the course of the itinerary, indicating the<br />

specific waypoint.<br />

The description of each leg illustrates the most important historical<br />

and artistic resources from the pilgrims’ point of view.<br />

The text is supplemented with boxes, describing in-depth<br />

particularly interesting monuments and places, interspersed<br />

throughout the text.<br />

10<br />

For each itinerary, information is provided on: accommodation<br />

facilities, events and fairs, and tourist information offices.<br />

The information on accommodation facilities was collected in<br />

2009 from the APT, the local tourist boards for the provinces of<br />

Florence, Siena, and Arezzo.<br />

The references on religious accommodations were provided<br />

by the Archdiocese of Florence and the Diocese of Fiesole. It<br />

must be added that the parishes listed are willing to offer a<br />

spiritual and pastoral hospitality to pilgrims in possession of a<br />

pilgrim credential card (normally released by a religious organization).<br />

For the three main cities (Florence, Siena, and Arezzo),<br />

only hostels and holiday houses were chosen; whereas for all the<br />

other legs of the itinerary, other types of accommodation facilities<br />

have been listed, whose approximate price does not exceed<br />

50 Euros per person per night. The accommodation facilities indicated<br />

for each leg were chosen from among those within an<br />

hour’s walk from the stopping point for that stage.


LEGEND<br />

WALKING Itinerary<br />

CITY TOUR<br />

VIA SANESE<br />

VIA PISANA AND FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Via Francigena<br />

Stretch connecting to the Via Francigena<br />

BIKING Itinerary<br />

BUS route<br />

Places with BUS SERVICE<br />

(for information and schedules, visit the following sites: www.sita-on-line.it;<br />

www.sena.it; www.trainspa.it; www.acv.it; www.etruriamobilita.it; www.amvbus.it)<br />

Places with RAILWAY SERVICE<br />

Beginning and end of an itinerary or a leg<br />

Stops along the route and junctions for alternative itineraries<br />

Centers of historico-artistic interest<br />

Religious buildings<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong> hostels and accommodation facilities<br />

11<br />

Places of natural interest<br />

Castles/towers/ancient villages<br />

VISIT THE SITE<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Further notes on the itineraries and historico-artistic resources<br />

Information on the towns and villages, places of interest and events<br />

Images taken along the route and of the countryside<br />

Detailed maps and description of the routes<br />

Audio-guide and GPS files<br />

Updates on accommodation facilities and tourist information


Useful information<br />

Retracing the historical route, the itineraries of the pilgrim<br />

roads to Rome cross numerous dirt roads and paths. Nevertheless,<br />

the itinerary sometimes follows roads where the presence<br />

of motor vehicles may expose hikers or bikers to risks.<br />

The rule of the road illustrates the behavior to be followed<br />

while traveling on urban and suburban roads intended to guarantee<br />

the safety of pilgrims.<br />

Along the paths, particular attention must be paid to the directional<br />

signs so as not to lose track of the route indicated.<br />

In addition, when crossing through natural areas, it is important<br />

to remember the following: do not damage vegetation or<br />

disturb animals; avoid making unnecessary noise; do not leave<br />

behind trash of any kind; do not light fires; camp only in designated<br />

areas; use only the public rights of way when crossing<br />

private fenced areas.<br />

In many rural areas, fences are used to keep wild animals out<br />

of cultivated areas. On private property, close gates once you<br />

have passed.<br />

For cyclists, bring a small repair kit. Bike tourists must give way<br />

to those traveling on foot.<br />

Before beginning legs located outside of cities and towns, always<br />

be sure to check the weather forecasts.<br />

TRAFFIC CODE, D. LGS. 30/4/92 No. 285<br />

12<br />

Pedestrians must walk on pavements, footpaths and other areas designated for their use.<br />

If these facilities are not available or are obstructed, closed, or inadequate, pedestrians<br />

must walk along the side of the road facing oncoming vehicles so as to minimize as<br />

much as possible the obstruction of traffic. Outside of towns, pedestrians must walk<br />

against traffic on two-way roads and on the right side of the road in the same direction<br />

as vehicular traffic on one-way thoroughfares. From half an hour after sunset until a halfhour<br />

before sunrise, pedestrians must walk in single file when traveling outside cities and<br />

towns on roadways without public lighting.<br />

Pedestrians crossing the roadway must use pedestrian crossings, underpasses, and overpasses.<br />

Where these do not exist, or are more than 100 meters from the crossing point,<br />

pedestrians may only cross perpendicular to the road, and try to avoid situations that may<br />

endanger themselves or others.<br />

Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing intersections on the diagonal; they must use<br />

the crosswalks, where they exist, to traverse squares, even if they are more than 100<br />

meters away.<br />

Pedestrians are prohibited from stopping or lingering on the roadway, except in cases of<br />

necessity; they are likewise prohibited from stopping in groups on sidewalks, shoulders,<br />

or crosswalks, where they may obstruct the normal passage of other pedestrians.<br />

Where no crosswalk is available, pedestrians must give precedence to drivers.<br />

Pedestrians are prohibited from crossing the road before buses, trolley buses, and trams<br />

that are at a bus stop. The use of skateboards, roller skates/blades or other similar forms<br />

of transportation is prohibited on the roadway.<br />

Games, workouts, and sporting events are not authorized. The use of skateboards, roller<br />

skates/blades or other similar forms of transportation is prohibited in pedestrian-only<br />

areas as they may create situations dangerous to others.<br />

Pedestrians are also advised to carry a reflective vest to be worn at night on roadways<br />

outside inhabited areas where no public lighting is available.


Definitions and directional signs<br />

Travel time is the amount of time needed by an average<br />

hiker to walk the distance, not considering possible stops along<br />

the way.<br />

Total elevation gain is the sum of all the climbs of a leg or<br />

an itinerary.<br />

The degree of difficulty, based on the Club Alpino Italiano<br />

(CAI) ratings for Liguria, Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta, uses the<br />

following categories: T = for day-tourists, E = hikers of all levels,<br />

EE = for experienced hikers; EEA = for experienced hikers, with<br />

equipment.<br />

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY FOR THE ITINERARIES<br />

T = for day-tourists - Itineraries of rather short duration on clearly marked lanes, muletracks<br />

or easy paths that are well-marked and do not present problems of orientation.<br />

They require a certain acquaintance with mountain environments and an adequate physical<br />

conditioning.<br />

E = hikers of all levels - Itineraries on paths or tracks, usually marked, across various types<br />

of terrain (meadows, taluses, or scree). The walks can be short stretches on flat or slightly<br />

uneven ground with leftover snow, where there is a slight risk of injury from falling.<br />

The routes may sometimes cross open country that, however, is clearly and adequately<br />

marked. Steep hillsides may be encountered; exposed sections will have either barriers or<br />

cables available for protection. There may sometimes be unexposed passages over rock,<br />

or short, easy stretches equipped with safeguards (steps, walkways or cables) that do<br />

not require the use of specific equipment (e.g., slings, snap-hooks, etc.) A good sense<br />

of direction is required together with a certain amount of experience and knowledge of<br />

mountainous terrain, as well as suitable training for hiking, footwear, and equipment.<br />

This type of route constitutes the majority of the hiking trails in the Italian mountains.<br />

EE = for experienced hikers - These itineraries are generally marked but require the ability<br />

to hike on specific types of terrain. Paths or tracks over impassable and treacherous<br />

terrain (steep, possibly slippery slopes of grass or scree and talus). Varied terrain (scree,<br />

small, gently sloping snowfields, open slopes without landmarks, etc.). Rocky stretches<br />

with minor technical obstacles (safeguarded trails, via ferratas of lesser difficulty). They<br />

require: general experience in and familiarity with a mountain environment; a sure step<br />

and a head for heights; adequate equipment, gear, and physical preparation. In addition,<br />

on the safeguarded routes, it is necessary to know how to use personal safety equipment<br />

(snap-hooks, belaying devices, slings, and short ropes).<br />

13<br />

EEA = for experienced hikers, with gear.


The directional signs contain the logo of the pilgrim roads to<br />

Rome and comply with the rule of the road, Tuscan Regional Hiking<br />

(RET) regulations, and those used on CAI trails.<br />

In addition to the signs along the itinerary, in the cities and towns<br />

and along the legs of the hike, along the Traffic Code roads of the<br />

route the pilgrim will find:<br />

arrows in cities and towns<br />

Via Via Romea Romea<br />

arrow on interurban streets and roads<br />

Via Romea<br />

Via Romea<br />

Via Romea<br />

and along paths and roads not governed by the rule of the road:<br />

CAI directional signs<br />

14<br />

VR<br />

simple CAI trail markers<br />

733<br />

VIA ROMEA<br />

RET arrows ROMEA<br />

TUSCANIA h 0.45<br />

0. 30<br />

0. 40<br />

3. 10<br />

211<br />

Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30<br />

Meta Intemedia 0. 40<br />

Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10<br />

0. 30<br />

0. 40<br />

211<br />

Meta Ravvicinata 0. 30<br />

Meta Intemedia 0. 40<br />

211<br />

3. 10<br />

Meta d’Itinerario 3. 10


<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s along the route<br />

15


16<br />

Along one of the stone-paved routes


THE HISTORY<br />

Florence: A Crossroads of the Medieval Road Network<br />

In Canto XXIII of Inferno, responding to the two Gaudenti<br />

brothers who have asked Dante where he is from, Dante says,<br />

“…l’ fui nato e cresciuto sovra ‘l bel fiume d’Arno alla gran villa”<br />

(…Born was I, and grew up, In the great town on the fair river<br />

of Arno”). The expression used by the poet, gran villa, great<br />

town, is indeed quite appropriate for describing the city of his<br />

birth: at the beginning of the 14 th century, Florence was one<br />

of the great metropolises of the West, besides being one of<br />

the most important international economic “centers”, with few<br />

equals in terms of size and number of inhabitants.<br />

17<br />

During the 13 th century, Florentines had considerably developed<br />

a far-reaching commerce, from which a new and more substantial<br />

source of wealth was derived: the loan of money. The large<br />

accumulations of capital produced were the basis for considerable<br />

urban growth as well as the great architectural achievements<br />

of that period. Furthermore the Florentines were fully aware of<br />

the importance of their city and the economic power it had attained.<br />

For example, it is significant that in a plaque, still in place,<br />

that recalls a minor event such as the 1243 reconstruction of the<br />

Parish Church of Santi Simone e Giuda, in the popular quarter<br />

formed around the “Parlagio”, the city was defined as the main<br />

one in the West: ”…de florentina (civitate) pre qualibet urbe<br />

latina” (1).


18<br />

Above: Map of the main road network of the Republic of Florence / Below: A view of Florence


The Ten Main Roads of the Florentine Republic<br />

Again in the 13 th century, the attraction of Florence on its countryside<br />

led to a traffic system with roads radiating out from the<br />

city, based on direct connections with the various areas in the<br />

district, an index of the latter’s increasingly greater economic<br />

and political subordination to the former. An extract from the<br />

1322-1325 Statuto del Capitano del Popolo, from a chapter that<br />

most likely dates to before the end of the 13 th century, contains<br />

a list of the main roads that led off from Florence which we<br />

quote below (2) and are the ten main roads and routes of the<br />

Florentine Republic:<br />

Via et strata que summit a porta seu Burgo Sancti Niccholai per<br />

quam itur in Vallem Arni (3)<br />

Strata de Chianti que summit initium a pilastro ubi est crux<br />

ultra ponticellum de Ricorboli<br />

Strata per quam itur Pratum et incipit a ponte seu Burgo Sancti Pauli<br />

Strata de Sexto per quam itur Pratum<br />

Strata per quam itur ad Sanctum Petrum de Sieve, versus Bononiam<br />

et versus Gallianum et Sanctam Agatham<br />

Strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve et vadit versus Decomanum<br />

et incipit a Burgo Sancti Petri Maioris<br />

Strata per quam itur ad Sanctum Cassianum, Podium Boniççi et<br />

Sanctum Donatum de Poci<br />

Strata de Giogholis que summitur a porta seu Burgo Sancti<br />

Petri Gattolino<br />

Strata per quam itur Pisas que summitur a porta seu Burgo<br />

Sancti Frediani<br />

As can be determined, the polarizing power of the city, by favoring<br />

a series of links to the main towns in the countryside, gave<br />

birth to a road network that radiated out from the focal point<br />

that was, of course, Florence. The road system was functional<br />

and efficient, its importance to the city’s economy is described<br />

well in Chapter CI, Book V of the 1325 Statuto del Podestà<br />

which says, “…et cum pulcrum et utilitati reipublice bene conveniat<br />

stratas publicas, et maxime illam per quam victualia et<br />

mercantie deferentur ut plurimum in civitatem Florentie” (4).<br />

Besides, most of the ten main roads and routes passed through<br />

the city in a supra-regional road network. Such was the case<br />

of the road that after San Piero a Sieve headed across the Apennines<br />

towards Bologna or of the road that led to the port<br />

of Pisa, or the others, both north and south of the Arno, that<br />

continued until they met up with the Via Francigena, the main<br />

artery in Italy with traffic from all over the continent during the<br />

Middle Ages. This was, for example, the route that led to Poggibonsi,<br />

and then continued “versus civitatem Senarum et versus<br />

Romanam Curiam”, the latter a road “que utilissima est publice<br />

rei”, as stated in the same Chapter CI, Book V of the Statuto<br />

del Podestà (5).<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />

19<br />

www.vieromee.it


<strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes in the Florentine Countryside<br />

It was precisely on these and other roads whose routes led to<br />

far-reaching developments, that the pilgrims arrived in Florence<br />

passing through the city on their way to Rome; the same roads<br />

were also used by many Florentines thus enlarging the flow of<br />

European wayfarers.<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />

As regards the former, the city had become a transit point for<br />

those – ever more numerous, as we shall see, beginning in the<br />

early 13 th century – who made the pilgrimage to Rome following<br />

routes other than that of the Via Francigena to cross over the<br />

Apennines.<br />

But there were also many Florentines who, undertaking one of<br />

the three peregrinationes maiores (to Rome, Jerusalem and Santiago<br />

de Compostela), began their journey by using those main<br />

roads and routes in the countryside that connected to the Via<br />

Francigena, the backbone of the Italian pilgrimage routes. For<br />

example, the itinerary memoirs from different years left by three<br />

Florentine pilgrims who traveled to Santiago de Compostela during<br />

the 15th century, tell us that two of them joined the Via<br />

Francigena in Lucca, which they reached from Florence following<br />

the strata per quam itur Pratum (6).<br />

However, one could also reach Compostela by sea, and, after<br />

the 12 th century, most embarkations occurred in Pisa and later,<br />

in Leghorn because of the silting up of the port of Luni. Consequently,<br />

the strata per quam itur Pisas was used even by those<br />

who chose to join the Via Francigena in the lower Valdelsa.<br />

20<br />

For those wanting to go to Rome, the connection south of the<br />

Arno to the Via Francigena was chiefly the strata per quam itur<br />

ad Sanctum Cassianum that split into two routes. The first, the<br />

so-called Via Sanese, wound beyond San Casciano over the<br />

ridge of the hills acting as a watershed between the Val di Pesa<br />

and the Valdelsa, reaching the Via Francigena in Siena. The other<br />

route – more properly called a strada romana, because of its<br />

ultimate destination: Rome – instead headed to Poggibonsi, and<br />

there joined the Via Francigena in the mid-Valdelsa (7).<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

The routes passing along the opposite sides of the upper Valdarno<br />

were also tied to the pilgrimages to Rome. In fact, both<br />

the Via Vecchia Aretina and the Strada dei Sette Ponti – to use<br />

the modern names of these two roads – arrived in Arezzo, an<br />

important stop on the so-called Via dell’Alpe di Serra; this latter<br />

was another popular route to Rome for pilgrims that in the Annales<br />

Stadenses – considered the most comprehensive guide to<br />

Rome of the Middle Ages – was defined as the melior via, or the<br />

best way, to reach the Eternal City, at least for pilgrims coming<br />

from Germanic areas (8).


Moreover, beginning in the late Middle Ages, the Via Vecchia<br />

Aretina would also become the first part of the itinerary used<br />

by Florentines to reach another very popular pilgrimage destination,<br />

one that would see significant growth during the Counter-<br />

Reformation period: the Holy House of Loreto (9). It was no coincidence<br />

that the great Spedale del Bigallo hospice complex was<br />

built along this route to serve the pilgrims.<br />

As can be seen, even if only marginally affected by the route of<br />

the Via Francigena, which unfolded in the south-western limits<br />

of the countryside, along the Val d’Elsa, this area that in the<br />

Middle Ages constituted the Florentine countryside was crossed<br />

by routes that were an integral part of the “system” of pilgrimage<br />

routes. The reason being that Florence, like all large cities<br />

in Western Christendom, from at least the 12 th century onward<br />

contributed abundantly to supplying the flood of pilgrims heading<br />

towards the main loca sacra of Christianity (and the abundance<br />

of documentary evidence would suffice to attest it).<br />

Furthermore, along the roads in the countryside around Florence<br />

traveled by these pious wayfarers departing from the city were<br />

many minor pilgrimage destinations also much frequented by<br />

Florentines. We refer here to the sanctuaries where miraculous<br />

sacred images of the Madonna were worshiped, places such<br />

as Impruneta, the Madonna del Sasso in Lobaco or the parish<br />

church in Cercina, to name but a few. Or those places whose<br />

holiness was derived from the existence of the tomb or relics<br />

of a local saint, like the sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino in Panzano,<br />

the oratory of Beato Gherardo in Villamagna, the Church of the<br />

Beata Giulia in Signa, and the sanctuary of Santa Verdiana in<br />

Castelfiorentino.<br />

21<br />

Fresco by Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Welcoming the <strong>Pilgrim</strong>s. Oratory of Buonomini di San Martino


1200: Florence, an important stop on the way to Rome<br />

Florence’s association with pilgrimages became even more pronounced<br />

in the 13 th century when, as mentioned above, the city<br />

became an obligatory stop for the majority of those who were<br />

making the pilgrimage to Rome. Over the course of that century,<br />

in fact, it might be said that the Via Francigena was “abducted”<br />

by the city on the Arno. Indeed, the preferred route to Rome<br />

was no longer the ancient road that had developed in the late<br />

Middle Ages – crossing the Apennines at the Monte Bardone<br />

Pass, then heading towards Lucca, until finally reaching Siena<br />

through the Val d’Elsa – but rather on the road that connected<br />

Bologna directly to Florence through the Apennine passes of the<br />

Mugello (first, the Osteria Bruciata Pass, later the Giogo Pass<br />

near Scarperia), and then continued towards Siena using roads<br />

that had previously connected the city of Florence with the Via<br />

Francigena at Poggibonsi or Siena (10).<br />

The new route to Rome would also be the main traffic conduit<br />

between the Po River valley and peninsular Italy, along which<br />

moved massive flows of people, goods and money, attracted<br />

by Florence’s economic and financial power, which reached its<br />

zenith right in the 13 th century as evidenced by the mintage in<br />

1252 of the gold coin (the florin), which joined the silver one,<br />

minted as early as 1235.<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from the Villa Bardini garden<br />

22


The Rise of <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Hospices in the City of Florence<br />

Evidence of the new and important role played by the city in the<br />

pilgrimage road system is seen in the foundation of many pilgrim<br />

hospices between the 13 th and 14 th centuries. A typical example<br />

of Florentine spirituality, expressed in purely religious forms as<br />

well as in works of charity, the pilgrim hospices were distributed<br />

throughout the city, but especially in the areas closest to the city<br />

gates and the stretches of roads just outside of these gates (11).<br />

A particular concentration of hospices was found along the city<br />

route from Porta San Gallo to Porta San Pietro Gattolino (now<br />

Porta Romana) continuing what had by then become the strada<br />

regia romana within the city walls.<br />

During the 13 th century, any changes in the pilgrimage road system<br />

– at least as regarded the route to Rome – also affected<br />

the Florentine countryside. Of the streets that radiated out from<br />

Florence then used primarily by pilgrims to Rome, the ones that<br />

stood out were the countryside’s main roads and routes. Both<br />

the road that led through the Mugello to Bologna and the ancient<br />

links to the Via Francigena (the Via Sanese and the Via<br />

Romana) experienced a consequent build-up of accommodation<br />

and charitable facilities as a result of the increased traffic. Inns<br />

and hostels thus dotted the routes and many pilgrim hospices<br />

were also built, the most important of which were located at<br />

the main stopping points: Tagliaferro, Scarperia, Firenzuola, and<br />

Pietramala on the road to Bologna, and San Casciano, Castellina<br />

and Poggibonsi on the two routes to Rome (12).<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ itineraries in the Florentine countryside<br />

Reconstruction of the San Giovanni Evangelista Hospice in Florence<br />

23<br />

www.vieromee.it


Notes<br />

(1) The plaque, in fact, is found on the facade of the Church of San Simone,<br />

in the small square of the same name that opens near Via Torta, the city street<br />

whose curvilinear progression traces the perimeter of the ancient amphitheater<br />

of Florentia, whose remains in the Middle Ages were called Parlagio.<br />

(2) Cf. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto<br />

del Capitano del Popolo degli anni 1322-1325, vol.I, Libro IV, Capitolo VIII,<br />

p.175, Firenze 1921.<br />

(3) It is the road that connected Florence and Arezzo and corresponds to the<br />

current Via Vecchia Aretina.<br />

(4) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto<br />

del Podestà dell’anno 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, p.428, Firenze 1921.<br />

(5) Cfr. R. Caggese (edited by), Statuti della Repubblica Fiorentina, Statuto del<br />

Podestà del 1325, vol.II, Capitolo CI, Libro V, ibidem, Firenze 1921.<br />

(6) Cfr. R. Stopani, Il “camino” italiano per Santiago de Compostela. Le fonti<br />

itinerarie di età medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 2001, pp. 51-72 and pp.73-86.<br />

In both the memoirs, the pilgrimage, beyond Lucca, continued following the<br />

route of the Via Francigena crossing the Alps through the Moncenisio Pass.<br />

The pilgrim who wrote the third 15 th -century memoir (pp. 90-105) from Florence<br />

instead reached Bologna; he continued along the Via Emilia as far as<br />

Borgo San Donnino and there joined the Via Francigena, also crossing the<br />

Alps through the Moncenisio Pass.<br />

(7) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena in Toscana. Storia di una strada medievale,<br />

Salimbeni, Firenze, pp. 61-64.<br />

(8) Cfr. Annales Stadenses auctore Alberto, in Monumenta Germaniae Historica”,<br />

Scriptores, vol. XVI, pp. 335-341, Hannoverae 1858.<br />

24<br />

(9) The numerous itinerary memoirs of the pilgrimage to Loreto refer primarily<br />

to the 16 th -17 th centuries. Let us recall for its completeness the Libro della<br />

Compagnia della Santissima Trinità, del 1577, (National Central Library of<br />

Florence, Ms. Magl. Cl. XIII, cod.78), and Il pellegrinaggio alla Santa Casa di<br />

Loreto in A Roma per il Giubileo del 1575 con la Confraternita della Santissima<br />

Trinità, Le Lettere, Firenze 2000, pp. 91-112, published by R. Stopani.<br />

(10) Cfr. R. Stopani, La via Francigena all’epoca dei primi Giubilei. La strada<br />

cambia itinerario e diviene via regia romana in La via Francigena. Storia di una<br />

strada medievale, Le Lettere, Firenze 1998, pp.138-149.<br />

(11) Cfr. R. Stopani (edited by), Firenze e i primi Giubilei. Un momento di storia<br />

fiorentina della solidarietà, Centro Studi Romei, Firenze 1999, pp. 22-29.<br />

(12) Cfr. AA.VV., Percorsi e valichi dell’Appennino fra storia e leggenda. Futa,<br />

Osteria Bruciata, Giogo, Firenze 1985, pp. 85-108 e R. Stopani, Le vie del<br />

Giubileo. Guida, storia, percorsi, Erremme, Roma 1996, pp. 41-102.


1 st Itinerary<br />

FLORENCE<br />

THE URBAN TOUR<br />

At the beginning of the 14 th century, in his Cronica (Libro XI,<br />

Capitolo XCIV) Giovanni Villani - with legitimate pride in his city -<br />

wrote that in Florence there were “thirty hospices with more than<br />

one thousand beds to accommodate the poor and the infirm”. In<br />

fact, the city had a system of charitable institutions that, alongside<br />

the modest facilities offering a few beds to foreigners passing<br />

through and to the needy, envisaged the large spedali, or hospices,<br />

considered an expression and symbol of the city since they<br />

had been erected with the participation of all the population “ad<br />

utilitatem animarum et decorum civitatis”. From the 13 th century<br />

on, because of the massive flows of people and goods caused<br />

by the network of business relations that radiated from Florence,<br />

the bulk of traffic heading into the Italian peninsula from the<br />

north converged in the new trans-Apennine passes of the Mugello.<br />

Then there was the pilgrim traffic to Rome, as the city on the<br />

Arno had become a requisite stopping point for all those who<br />

were going ad limina Beati Petri. Hence the need for adequate<br />

accommodation and charitable facilities to meet the needs of all<br />

those (pilgrims or travelers) who passed through the city.<br />

25


1 st Itinerary<br />

FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

5<br />

6<br />

9<br />

10<br />

7<br />

8<br />

11<br />

12<br />

26<br />

13<br />

16<br />

15<br />

14<br />

Porta San Pietro Gattolino<br />

Portal architrave of San Giovanni Battista della Calza


HOSPICES ALONG THE URBAN TOUR<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

Convent of Sant’Agata<br />

Mantellate Conservatory<br />

Former hospice<br />

of Bonifazio<br />

Church of San Giovannino<br />

dei Cavalieri<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

Church of Gesù Pellegrino<br />

Former hospice<br />

of San Matteo<br />

Hospice<br />

of Santa Maria Nuova<br />

Oratory of San Tommaso<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

Former hospice of Bigallo<br />

Compagnia dei<br />

Buonomini di San Martino<br />

Former hospice of Santo<br />

Sepolcro al Ponte Vecchio<br />

Oratory<br />

of San Sebastiano dei Bini<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

Former hospice of<br />

San Niccolò, or della Buca<br />

Former hospice<br />

of San Pier Novello<br />

Former hospice of Spirito<br />

Santo, or Piccione<br />

Church of San Giovanni<br />

Battista alla Calza<br />

27<br />

WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Starting point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

(coming from Via Bolognese)<br />

End point: Porta San Pietro Gattolino (Florence)<br />

(entering Via Romana or Via Sanese)<br />

Level of difficulty: easy<br />

Elevation gain: none<br />

Distance: 5 km<br />

Travel time: 1 h 30’


The always open door of mercy<br />

Erected mainly over the course of the 13 th century or in the<br />

early decades of the 14 th century, the hospices played a key<br />

role in the 13 th -century development of the urban structure of<br />

Florence, tending to be located in the newly developed areas<br />

of the city, namely the “villages” outside the 12 th -century walls<br />

along the roads radiating into the countryside. Their growth<br />

was linked to a sort of “civic religiosity” found in all levels of the<br />

populace and which favored the “spirituality of deeds”, finding<br />

expression in the construction of charitable facilities. The<br />

Signoria could rightly state that the city kept “the door of mercy<br />

[always open] to the great and the lowly, the infirm and the<br />

vigorous, and to wayfarers”.<br />

1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />

The hospices inside the city were found in those areas near the<br />

gates that marked the start of the main roads. The north-south<br />

artery across the city was the most important – the natural<br />

continuation inside the city walls of the roads that connected<br />

Florence to Bologna and Rome, respectively. There was a particular<br />

concentration of hospices along the route that ran from<br />

Porta San Gallo in the oldest part of the city, across the Arno<br />

at the Ponte Vecchio, to Porta San Pietro Gattolino (nowadays,<br />

Porta Romana).<br />

Via San Gallo. In the foreground, the church of the hospice of the Mantellate<br />

28<br />

www.vieromee.it


IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

Accommodation in the city<br />

The main Florentine hospital structures were in oldest part of the<br />

city and, beginning in the 15 th century, they became increasingly<br />

specialized as they assumed different functions: the hospital<br />

of Santa Maria Nuova, founded in 1286, became the largest<br />

hospital in the city; the hospice of San Matteo, established<br />

in the 14 th century by the moneychanger Lemmo Balducci; the<br />

hospice of the Innocenti, established as a shelter for abandoned<br />

children; and the hospice of Bonifazio, named after its<br />

founder, Messer Bonifazio Lupi.<br />

Besides the north-south route, many hospices were in the areas<br />

of the city along roads leading to the other gates. From Porta al<br />

Prato and the nearby Porta Faenza (the latter’s remains being<br />

incorporated in one of the bastions of the Fortezza da Basso), heavily<br />

traveled roads branched off towards Pistoia, Prato and other<br />

towns in the Florentine valley. Near these gates, famous hospitals<br />

were established whose buildings – renovated and enlarged several<br />

times over the years – can still be seen: the hospice of San<br />

Giovanni di Dio on Borgo Ognissanti, the hospice of the Scala<br />

on Via della Scala, the hospice of the Convalescenti in Piazza<br />

Santa Maria Novella, the Templar hospice of San Jacopo in<br />

Campo Corbolini on Via Faenza, and the hospice of Sant’Antonio<br />

(the current “Cenacolo di Fuligno”).<br />

Near Porta San Frediano, the beginning of the strata per quam<br />

itur Pisas, heavily trafficked because of the goods going to Pisa,<br />

the natural outlet to the sea of Florence, was the structure known<br />

as the hospice of Buonamico while going towards Porta alla<br />

Croce, at the head of the strata per quam itur ad Pontem de<br />

Sieve was another hospice run by the Templars, situated prope<br />

ecclesiam Sanctae Crucis: the church of Santa Maria della Croce<br />

al Tempio, which still overlooks Via dei Malcontenti.<br />

29<br />

Hospice of the Innocenti


The urban tour being recommended is the same as the one<br />

pilgrims once followed upon arriving in Florence from Via Bolognese.<br />

They entered the city through Porta San Gallo and<br />

proceeded towards Porta San Pietro Gattolino, where the<br />

road joined either Via Romana or Via Sanese, both of which<br />

led to Siena and then on to Rome. The greatest number of pilgrim<br />

hospices was concentrated along this route – often modest<br />

structures with only a few beds as well as important charitable<br />

institutions of the city.<br />

In front of Porta San Gallo, just outside the walls, was the pilgrim<br />

hospice that had given its name to the gate and the street<br />

that began there. For more than three centuries, it was one of<br />

the largest hospices in Florence, founded in 1218 by Guidalotto<br />

Voltodellorco to serve the poor, the needy and pilgrims. The<br />

eight-building complex however was completely demolished<br />

during the 16 th century for defensive reasons at the time of the<br />

siege of Florence.<br />

Entering the city, along Via San Gallo, the pilgrims immediately<br />

found, in the following order, the hospices of Santa Caterina<br />

de’ Talani, San Gherardo and Sant’Onofrio. Two convents<br />

later rose on the sites of these hospices. The first was that of<br />

the Mantellate 2 , which became a boarding school in the 18 th<br />

century; its church, from the 17 th century, houses paintings by<br />

Stradano and Jacopo Vignali; the other was the Convent of<br />

Sant’Agata 1 (now part of the Military Hospital), its late 16 th -<br />

century church contains a beautiful painting by Alessandro Allori<br />

depicting the Wedding in Cana and two frescoes by Giovanni<br />

Bizzelli (the Martyrdom and Burial of Saint Agatha).<br />

30<br />

The hospice of San Matteo on Piazza San Marco, nowadays the Academy of Fine Arts


The pilgrims then found themselves in front of the majestic hospice<br />

of Bonifazio 3 , whose loggias – redone in 1787 – still<br />

face the street today. Built between 1377 and 1387 by Bonifazio<br />

Lupi, the marchese of Soragna, valiant captain of the Florentines,<br />

the hospices originally had 34 beds. Considerably enlarged<br />

later, it incorporated other hospices found on Via San Gallo, like<br />

the San Dionisio hospice which was situated in front of the previously<br />

mentioned Church of Sant’Agata (it subsequently became<br />

the Monastery of the Ceppo). Over the course of its long<br />

history, the hospice of Bonifazio had many different uses: first<br />

(1736), it became a conservatory, then a hospice for the chronically<br />

ill, and finally a mental hospice, continuing to serve this<br />

function until its suppression.<br />

A little further on was the hospice of the Broccardi, which<br />

was connected to the hospice of Bonifazio, followed by others<br />

such as San Giovanni Battista Decollato and Gesù Pellegrino.<br />

The former was found on the spot where today stands the<br />

church popularly known as San Giovannino dei Cavalieri 4 :<br />

it was closed in the 16 th century when the hospital nuns of San<br />

Giovanni di Gerusalemme, which were affiliated with the Order<br />

of Malta, established there. The 16 th -century church contains<br />

works of a certain value, including a Nativity by Bicci di Lorenzo<br />

and a Crucifix with Mary and St. John, attributed to Lorenzo<br />

Monaco. The hospice of Gesù Pellegrino 5 , also known as<br />

the hospice of the Compagnia Dei Pretoni, of which only the<br />

church – restored in the 16 th century – remains, was abolished<br />

at the end of the 17 th century. Inside the church is the tombstone<br />

of Arlotto, a parish priest famous for his humor, on which<br />

there is an inscription he himself wrote: “QUESTA SEPOLTURA IL<br />

PIEVANO ARLOTTO FECE FARE PER SÉ E PER CHI CI VUOLE EN-<br />

TRARE” (“Father Arlotto had this tomb made for himself and for<br />

all those who want to enter”). The carved-stone coat-of-arms of<br />

the hospice depicts the figure of a pilgrim complete with staff<br />

and haversack; it is set in a wall in one of the buildings beside<br />

the church that presumably used the buildings of the hospice.<br />

1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />

31<br />

From the hospice of Gesù Pellegrino, turning from Via San Gallo<br />

onto Via degli Arazzieri, we enter Piazza San Marco, with the<br />

loggia of the hospice of San Matteo 6 (today, the Academy of<br />

Fine Arts) facing the square. This hospice was founded in 1385<br />

by the rich merchant Guglielmo Balducci, known as Lemmo,<br />

and was later run by the Money Changers’ Guild. It was one of<br />

the main charitable institutions in Florence with sixty beds that<br />

were predominantly used to receive the poor and the sick.<br />

Returning to Via San Gallo and continuing on – with the street’s<br />

name changing to Via dei Ginori – we arrive in Piazza San Lorenzo<br />

where one of the oldest hospices in Florence once stood. First documented<br />

in the early 12 th century, it was near the Basilica di San<br />

Lorenzo, and rose near one of the gates in the “old town walls”.<br />

www.vieromee.it


Taking a detour from Piazza San Lorenzo, we continue on Via<br />

dei Gori, Via dei Pucci and then, Via Bufalini, until we reach the<br />

hospice of Santa Maria Nuova 7 , Florence’s main hospital,<br />

still working, called arch-hospital, for both its size and importance.<br />

Founded in 1285 by the merchant Folco Portinari, a leading<br />

political figure, it was established specifically to treat and care<br />

for the sick. Despite the continuous overlapping of new additions<br />

to the original buildings over the centuries, the hospital<br />

has maintained its majestic, late medieval cruciform structure<br />

that could accommodate more than 600 patients at the end of<br />

the 15 th century. In addition, there still is the ancient church of<br />

Sant’Egidio (San Gilio), built on Lorenzo di Bicci’s design and later<br />

altered. The façade with the elegant colonnade dates back<br />

to the early 17 th century; it was built by Giulio Parigi on a design<br />

by Bernardo Buontalenti.<br />

1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR<br />

32<br />

Not far from Santa Maria Nuova was the hospice of the Pellegrini<br />

Oltramontani, one got there continuing along Via Sant’Egidio<br />

turning left to reach Via della Pergola. It was founded by<br />

Santi Cini, a Dominican friar and close friend of Saint Philip Neri,<br />

to house pilgrims to Rome who had crossed the Alps, that were<br />

taken in and fed for several days by the Compagnia dei Contemplanti,<br />

whose members were the scions of noble Florentine<br />

families. Adjoining the hospice was a church dedicated to St.<br />

Thomas Aquinas 8 , its original, late Renaissance architectural<br />

features still intact. It was built on a design by Santi di Tito, who<br />

was also responsible for the premises of the hospice that has<br />

also maintained the original 16 th -century structural and room<br />

layout, including a large, classical-style fireplace in pietra serena.<br />

Standing again before the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, we<br />

turn left into Via Folco Portinari and then right into Via dell’Oriuolo,<br />

continuing until we arrive in Piazza del Duomo. Here,<br />

between the baptistery and the façade of the original Cathedral<br />

of Santa Reparata, there once rose another of the city’s ancient<br />

hospital institutions: the hospital of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />

(reconstruction on page 21). It was founded in 1040 by the<br />

Chapter of the Cathedral and later demolished to make way for<br />

the larger Santa Maria del Fiore.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

On Piazza del Duomo at the corner of Via dei Calzaioli is the<br />

14 th -century Loggia del Bigallo, which, until the late 16 th century,<br />

was the seat of the Archconfraternity of Misericordia, the<br />

ancient and glorious Florentine institution that looked, and still<br />

today looks, after the sick. The loggia takes its name from the<br />

fact that since 1425 it was also the seat of the Compagnia del<br />

Bigallo 9 , which oversaw various charitable institutes in the<br />

city and the countryside, including the hospice of Bigallo, on<br />

Via Vecchia Aretina, from which its name was derived. Two large<br />

marble arches, filled with sculptures and ornamental motifs, are<br />

at the base of the building, which is dominated by a floor with


elegant trefoil double-lancet windows. There is a small museum<br />

inside with mostly 14 th -15 th century works, including a detached<br />

fresco from 1342, that displays the oldest view of Florence.<br />

We now take Via dei Calzaioli, turning immediately left into Via<br />

delle Oche and then right into Via Santa Elisabetta where we<br />

continue into Via dei Cerchi. About halfway along the street,<br />

we turn to the left where we find the Piazzetta of San Martino<br />

del Vescovo, on which stands, in addition to the House of Dante<br />

and the Torre della Castagna, the Oratory of the Compagnia<br />

dei Buonomini di San Martino 10 , a small hospice linked to an<br />

ancient Florentine confraternity. On the walls of the small singlenave<br />

oratory is a fresco cycle painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio<br />

in the 15 th century that depicts the Works of Mercy. In one of the<br />

scenes two pilgrims holding staffs are received; two bonomini,<br />

good men, give money to a servant to prepare a bed for them –<br />

seen in the background – and something to eat and drink.<br />

Returning to Via dei Cerchi, we go to the end of the street and<br />

arrive in Piazza della Signoria. We enter the Uffizi loggia, off<br />

of which we take Via Lambertesca until it meets Via Por Santa<br />

Maria, the street that leads us to the Ponte Vecchio. After crossing<br />

the bridge, in the platea in capite pontis we find the two<br />

hospices of San Miniato and of Santo Sepolcro 11 . Both<br />

ancient hospices date back to the 11 th century. The latter, that<br />

belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, still retains its<br />

13 th -century façade, with a Jerusalem cross carved on a marble<br />

plaque with the old street number.<br />

We then take Borgo San Jacopo, Via Toscanella, and then Sdrucciolo<br />

dei Pitti – two narrow streets sided by tall buildings characteristic<br />

of the old Florence – until we come to Piazza Pitti. At<br />

33<br />

18 th -century drawing of the loggia of the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova


the end of the square, we find the beginning of Via Romana that<br />

leads to the gate of the same name, the Porta Romana. In the<br />

Middle Ages, the street was dotted with hospices. The first one<br />

encountered was the hospice of Sant’Antonio, built in 1316,<br />

then the 13 th -century hospice of San Sebastiano de’ Bini 12<br />

connected to the prestigious Roman institution of Santo Spirito<br />

in Sassia, as still indicated by the double cross carved into a<br />

14 th -century architrave in the wall of the façade of the 15 th -16 th -<br />

century oratory that rose where the hospice had been.<br />

Just beyond was the hospice of San Niccolò dei Fantoni 13<br />

known as the Buca from the name of the tavern near which it<br />

had been built. A stone coat of arms with the insignia of the<br />

Compagnia del Bigallo, from which the hospice depended, is<br />

found in the wall of the building later erected in its place. It also<br />

houses a mid-15 th -century detached fresco depicting the Madonna<br />

with Child between Two Angels.<br />

Continuing on, almost in front of the Annalena gate, the entrance<br />

to the Boboli gardens, was the small hospice of San Pier<br />

Novello 14 , founded by Piero di Cione Ridolfi in about the mid-<br />

14 th century. It was popularly called the hospice of the Chiocciola,<br />

only a dilapidated architrave remains of it, carved with the<br />

inscription: “HOSPITIUM NOBILIS RODULPH… FAMILIAE”.<br />

Then there was the hospice of San Lorenzo and, after the<br />

church of San Pietro Gattolino, the hospice of Madonna Santa<br />

Maria e dello Spirito Santo 15 , belonging to the Laudesi,<br />

commonly called Il Piccione or dove, because of the symbol of<br />

the Holy Spirit carved on the door lintel, with the inscription<br />

“HOSPITALE S.MARIE DE LAUDIBUS”.<br />

34<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Ponte Vecchio


At the end of the street was the hospice of San Giovanni Battista<br />

della Calza 16 , originally of the Knights of St. John of<br />

Jerusalem; it later became a convent of Jesuati monks whose<br />

long stocking-like hood gave rise to their nickname of calza,<br />

or stocking. The church, which presumably reused the hospice<br />

structures, has a 14 th -century portal lintel; inside is a crucifix<br />

attributed to Lorenzo Monaco and a panel by Empoli, while in<br />

the convent refectory is a 1514 painting of the Last Supper by<br />

Franciabigio.<br />

Somewhere near Porta Romana – the exact location uncertain<br />

because it was destroyed – was a final hospice: San Bartolomeo<br />

ad Sanctum Petrum Cattuarium (that later became San<br />

Pietro in Gattolino), founded by Sennuccio Del Bene who was a<br />

friend of Petrarch.<br />

Beyond the gate was the beginning of the strata qua itur versus<br />

civitatem Senarum et versus Romanam Curiam, whose stretch<br />

closer to the city was also dotted with hospices and other accommodation<br />

structures (e.g., hostels, inns) for travelers and pilgrims.<br />

Detail of the Palazzo Vecchio with the Uffizi in the background<br />

35<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR


ACCOMMODATION FACILITIES IN FLORENCE<br />

36<br />

Archi Rossi<br />

Via Faenza, 94r<br />

50123 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 290804 - Fax: 055 2302121<br />

info@hostelarchirossi.com<br />

www.hostelarchirossi.com<br />

Casa del SS. Rosario<br />

Via G. Monaco, 24<br />

50144 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 321171 - Fax: 055 3217337<br />

Casa Don Secchiaroli<br />

Via Borghini, 23/25<br />

50133 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 578100 - Fax: 055 589339<br />

info@casadonsecchiaroli.it<br />

www.casadonsecchiaroli.it<br />

Casa Madonna del Rosario<br />

Via Capo di Mondo, 44<br />

50136 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 679621 - Fax: 055 677133<br />

info@madonnadelrosario.it<br />

www.madonnadelrosario.it<br />

Casa per ferie San Marco<br />

Via Venezia, 18b<br />

50121 Florence - Tel: 055 579603<br />

www.italianroom.it<br />

Casa Regina del Santo Rosario<br />

Via G. Giusti, 35 - 50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2477636 - Fax: 055 2269149<br />

Casa Santo Nome di Gesù<br />

Piazza del Carmine, 21<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 213856 - Fax: 055 281835<br />

info@fmmFlorence.it<br />

www.fmmFlorence.it<br />

Conservatorio S. Maria degli Angeli<br />

Via della Colonna, 34<br />

50121 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2478051 - Fax: 055 2480985<br />

angeli.fi@tiscali.it<br />

www.conservatorioangeli.it<br />

C.S.D. Istituto Gould<br />

Via dei Serragli, 49<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 212576 - Fax: 055 280274<br />

foresteriaFlorence@diaconiavaldese.org<br />

www.istitutogould.it<br />

Deltachi<br />

Via Silvio Spaventa, 4<br />

50129 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 5001392 - Fax: 055 5001392<br />

info@deltachi.it - www.deltachi.it<br />

Gallo D’oro<br />

Via Cavour, 104<br />

50129 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 5522964 - Fax: 055 5534823<br />

info@ostellogallodoro.com<br />

www.ostellogallodoro.com<br />

Hostel A Fi 9<br />

Via Ricasoli, 9<br />

50122 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2398665 - Fax: 055 2645447<br />

info@academyhostels.com<br />

www.academyhostels.com<br />

Istituto Alfa Nuova<br />

Via E. Poggi, 6<br />

50129 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 472883 - 055 476280<br />

Fax: 055 488437<br />

Istituto del Sacro Cuore<br />

Viale Michelangelo, 27<br />

50125 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 6811872 - Fax: 055 6811388<br />

info@sacrocuore.com<br />

www.sacrocuore.com<br />

Istituto Salesiano dell’Immacolata<br />

Via del Ghirlandaio, 40<br />

50121 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 62300<br />

Fax: 055 6230282<br />

www.salesianiFlorence.it<br />

Istituto San Francesco di Sales<br />

Viale L. Ariosto, 13<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 224190<br />

Istituto San Giovanni Battista<br />

Via di Ripoli, 82<br />

50126 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 6802394 - Fax: 055 6815228<br />

istituto@merlobianco.it<br />

Istituto San Gregorio<br />

Via Francesco Bonaini, 9a<br />

50134 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 480955<br />

Fax: 055 475832<br />

Istituto Santa Chiara<br />

Via Borgognissanti, 56<br />

50123 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 215915<br />

Istituto Suore Oblate Spirito Santo<br />

Via Nazionale, 8<br />

50123 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2398202<br />

Fax: 055 2398129


Istituto Suore Rave di S. Elisabetta<br />

Viale Michelangelo, 46<br />

50125 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 6811884 - Fax: 055 6811884<br />

s.elisabetta.fi@tiscali.it<br />

Madonna Divina Provvidenza<br />

Via S. Biagio a Petriolo, 33<br />

50145 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 317263 - Fax: 055 317263<br />

sroblatepetr@alice.it<br />

Monaco 34<br />

Via Guido Monaco, 34<br />

50144 Florence<br />

Tel: 055321018<br />

info@ciaohostel.com<br />

www.ciaohostel.com<br />

New Ostel<br />

Via I. Peri, 3<br />

50144 Florence<br />

Tel e Fax: 0555272220<br />

info@newostel.com<br />

www.newostel.com<br />

Ostello 7 Santi<br />

Viale dei Mille, 11<br />

50131 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 5048452<br />

Fax: 055 5057085<br />

info@7santi.com<br />

www.7santi.com<br />

Ostello Centrale<br />

Via Faenza, 46/r<br />

50123 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 268481<br />

Fax: 055 268481<br />

Ostello Il Kantiere<br />

Via del Cavallaccio, 1/Q<br />

50142 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 7331270<br />

segreteria@kantiereFlorence.it<br />

www.kantiereFlorence.it<br />

Ostello Santa Monaca<br />

Via Santa Monaca, 6<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 268338 - 055 2396704<br />

Fax: 055 280185<br />

info@ostello.it<br />

www.ostello.it<br />

Ostello Villa Camerata<br />

Viale A. Righi, 2/4<br />

50137 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300<br />

Florence@aighostels.com<br />

www.ostelloFlorence.it<br />

Pensionato Pio X<br />

Via dei Serragli, 106<br />

50123 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 225044<br />

Fax: 055 225044<br />

Pensionato S. Filippo Neri<br />

Via dell’ Anguillara, 25<br />

50122 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 215701<br />

Fax: 055 215701<br />

pensionato@oratoriosanfilippo.it<br />

www.oratoriosanfilippo.it<br />

Plus Ostello Florence<br />

Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 15/17<br />

50129 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 4628934<br />

Fax: 055 4628934<br />

info@plusflorence.com<br />

www.plusflorence.com<br />

Pr. I. M.S.C. Alfa Nuova<br />

Via E. Poggi, 6<br />

50129 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 472883<br />

Fax: 055 488437<br />

Suore Oblate dell’Assunzione<br />

Via Borgo Pinti, 15<br />

50121 Florence<br />

Tel: 0552480582<br />

Fax: 0552346291<br />

Villa Agape<br />

Via Torre del Gallo, 8/10<br />

50125 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 220044<br />

Fax: 055 2337012<br />

Villa I Cancelli<br />

Via Incontri, 21<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 4226001<br />

Fax: 055 4226037<br />

villaicancelli@alice.it<br />

Villa Maria SS. Assunta<br />

Via delle Forbici, 38<br />

50133 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 577690<br />

Fax: 055 570156<br />

Youth Residence Florence 2000<br />

Viale R. Sanzio, 16<br />

50124 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2335558<br />

Fax: 055 2306392<br />

bed@dada.it<br />

www.cheap-hotel-florence.com<br />

37


INFORMATION<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

Bike rentals<br />

APT Florence<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Via Cavour, 1r<br />

Tel: 055290832 - 055290833<br />

info1@Florenceturismo.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Saturday<br />

8.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m.<br />

Sundays and holidays 8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />

www.Florenceturismo.it<br />

Other APT offices in Florence<br />

Via Manzoni 16<br />

Tel: 055 23320<br />

Aeroporto “A. Vespucci”<br />

Tel: 055 315874<br />

Municipality of Florence<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Piazza Stazione<br />

Tel: 055 212245<br />

turismo3@comune.fi.it<br />

Municipality of Florence<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Borgo S. Croce 29r<br />

Tel: 055 2340444 - 055 2264524<br />

turismo2@comune.fi.it<br />

Alinari<br />

Bicycles and scooters for hire<br />

Via Guelfa, 85r<br />

Tel: 055 280500<br />

www.alinarirental.com<br />

Florence by bike<br />

Bicycles and scooters for hire<br />

Via S.Zanobi, 120/122r<br />

Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />

www.florencebybike.it<br />

Rent Way<br />

P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />

50122 - Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2398890<br />

Cell: 333 9619820<br />

www.rentway.it<br />

info@rentway.it<br />

Events and fairs<br />

38<br />

• Bacco Artigiano (26 September)<br />

• Benedizione del vino (September)<br />

• Capodanno toscano (29 March)<br />

• Festival of Magi (6 January)<br />

• Festa della Rificolona (7 September)<br />

• Feast of San Lorenzo (10 August)<br />

• Feast of Santa Reparata (7 - 8 October)<br />

• Feast of Sant’Anna (26 July)<br />

• La Fiorita (23 May)<br />

• Ricordo di Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici<br />

(18 February)<br />

• Scoppio del Carro (12 April)<br />

• Torneo del Calcio Storico (24 June)


<strong>Vie</strong>w of Palazzo Vecchio from Via dei Cerchi<br />

39<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

1 st Itinerary - FLORENCE THE URBAN TOUR


40<br />

The City of Florence Welcoming the Poor and the Needy, “Libro del Biadaiolo”


2 nd Itinerary<br />

THE VIA SANESE<br />

Connecting to the<br />

Via Francigena in Siena<br />

41<br />

For connections to Siena (and then to Rome) among the main<br />

roads in their own countryside, Florentines preferred to use the<br />

road known as Sanctus Donatus in Pocis, or the Via Sanese as its<br />

ultimate destination was Siena. It was the shortest route to Siena,<br />

where it joined the Via Francigena and, not coincidentally, was<br />

also used by pilgrims on their way to Rome after passing through<br />

Florence, as seen from the pilgrims’ memoirs. Significantly, however,<br />

it is along this road that one finds the oldest documented<br />

bridge in Florence: the Ponte della Sambuca also called Romagliano<br />

(or Romagnano), mentioned as early as the 12 th century,<br />

which demonstrates the importance and age of the road.


2 nd Itinerary<br />

THE VIA SANESE<br />

Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Uopini<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

42<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

Elevation gain:<br />

600<br />

500<br />

400<br />

300<br />

200<br />

100<br />

00


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 83.3<br />

Distance (alternative routes): km 23.4<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze<br />

Distance: km 15.6<br />

Page 48<br />

Leg 2: Sant’Andrea in Percussina – Montefiridolfi<br />

Waypoints: San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />

Distance: km 14<br />

Page 54<br />

Leg 3: Montefiridolfi – San Donato in Poggio<br />

Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca<br />

Distance: km 15.5<br />

Page 58<br />

Leg 3, Alternative Route: Badia a Passignano – San Donato in Poggio<br />

Waypoints: Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa<br />

Distance: km 8.9<br />

Page 62<br />

Leg 4: San Donato in Poggio – Castellina in Chianti<br />

Waypoints: Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto<br />

Distance: km 17.2<br />

Page 64<br />

Leg 4, Alternative Route: San Donato in Poggio – Pietrafitta<br />

Waypoints: Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosio, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli,<br />

Distance: km 14.5<br />

Page 68<br />

Leg 5: Castellina in Chianti – Uopini (Siena)<br />

Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km)<br />

Distance: km 21<br />

Page 74<br />

Uopini - Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

Distance: km 7.2<br />

43<br />

The route alternates stretches on secondary asphalt roads and dirt roads. The path<br />

is well marked and presents no orientation difficulties. From the village of San<br />

Donato in Poggio, the route is basically a hike on forest roads and trails. The two<br />

alternative routes are also hikes.<br />

The legs can be easily walked. There are no particular problems with finding water<br />

or other refreshments, except on the two alternative routes.<br />

The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent climbs. The scenery is exceptionally<br />

beautiful with historical and cultural elements typical of the rural Tuscan<br />

economy.<br />

Two alternative routes are suggested. The first is more panoramic, the second<br />

goes to Sant’Eufrosino, a local pilgrimage destination.<br />

Note: The route joins the Via Francigena in Siena. There are many gates along<br />

the farm roads that keep the wildlife away from the crops. Do not leave the gates<br />

open, once having passed through.<br />

To cover the most urbanized and heavily trafficked areas, we recommend going<br />

the final 7.2-km stretch between Uopini and Siena by bus.


2 nd Itinerary<br />

THE VIA SANESE<br />

Connecting to the Via Francigena in Siena<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

44<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the countryside south of Florence


BIKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 90,5<br />

Distance (alternative routes): km 23,4<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-C<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

List of itinerary legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Montefiridolfi<br />

Waypoints: Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze,<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />

Distance: km 29,6<br />

Page 48<br />

Leg 2: Montefiridolfi – Castellina in Chianti<br />

Waypoints: Badia a Passignano, Sambuca, San Donato in Poggio, Pietracupa,<br />

San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto<br />

Distance: km 32,7<br />

Page 58<br />

Leg 3: Castellina in Chianti – Siena<br />

Waypoints: Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km), Uopini<br />

Distance: km 28,2<br />

Page 74<br />

Leg 2 / 3, Alternative Route:<br />

(A) Badia a Passignano – Panzano<br />

(B) Panzano – Pietrafitta<br />

Waypoints: (A) Rignana, Fornace, Pitracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino<br />

(B) Lucarelli<br />

Distance: km 23,4<br />

Page 62<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Badia a Passignano<br />

Pietracupa<br />

Panzano<br />

Pietrafitta<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

45<br />

6.6 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

8.9 km<br />

Time: 1h00’<br />

10.0 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

4.5 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

33.2 km<br />

Time: 2h40’<br />

The main itinerary, in the stretch between S.Donato in Poggio and Querciagrossa,<br />

and the “Leg 2 and 3” alternative route are demanding and suitable for bicyclists<br />

of medium technical skill. The “Leg 2 and 3” route may have an alternative stop in<br />

Panzano. The itinerary unwinds on secondary asphalt and on dirt roads, it is wellmarked<br />

and does not present any problems of orientation.<br />

There are no particular problems with finding water or other refreshments, unlike<br />

along the two alternative routes. The itinerary runs through a hilly area with frequent<br />

changes in elevation and steep climbs. The scenery is exceptionally beautiful<br />

due to historico-cultural elements typical of Tuscan agriculture.<br />

Note: The course requires good physical conditioning because of the many climbs.<br />

Almost 45% of the route can be covered using racing bikes while the remaining<br />

55% has gravel and beaten earth road beds and are suitable for mountain or citybikes<br />

with sturdy tires. The final stretch from Fonterutoli to Casalino is characterized<br />

by the presence of hawthorn with the consequent high risk of punctures.


Sanese Road and Romana Road<br />

The road in the first part of the itinerary (from Florence to the valley<br />

floor of the Pesa), followed the route of another main road in<br />

the Florentine countryside, that of the Strada Regia Romana, as it<br />

came to be known. It joined the Via Francigena, in the middle of<br />

the Val d’Elsa at Poggibonsi, and then continued with a slightly<br />

longer route, towards Siena.<br />

Both routes played an increasingly important role in the system<br />

of pilgrimage roads when the Via Francigena was “abducted” by<br />

Florence in the 13 th century as, with the development of a trans-<br />

Apennine crossing for Bologna, pilgrims to Rome began to favor<br />

the crossing points in the Mugello instead of the Cisa Pass, making<br />

Florence a stopping point on the road to Rome.<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

Until at least the end of the 12 th century, the two routes (the<br />

Sanese Road and the Romana Road), served to connect Florence<br />

with the southern section of the Via Francigena in Tuscany. In this<br />

guide, we have favored the “Via Sanese” because it allows us to<br />

recommend walking itineraries which sometimes follow exactly<br />

the ancient road that has survived 18 th - and 19 th -century modernization.<br />

In fact, the former Romana road, now State Road 2, is<br />

less suited to our idea of creating an alternative route, because of<br />

the intense traffic that characterizes some sections, especially in<br />

the larger towns (Tavarnelle, Barberino, Poggibonsi, and Staggia)<br />

located along the way.<br />

46<br />

Along the Via Sanese after Fonterutoli<br />

www.vieromee.it


The Ancient Way<br />

In the Middle Ages, the common course of the two roads started<br />

at Porta San Pietro Gattolino (now Porta Romana), climbing the<br />

hill of San Gaggio where once stood the Hospice of San Giuliano<br />

a Colombaia, founded in 1363 near the ancient “Fonte<br />

di Colombaia”. The route then headed towards Galluzzo where<br />

there was another hospice, Santa Maria di Malavolta, following<br />

though a different route than that of state road 2, (today the<br />

Via del Podestà), on which the hospice of Santa Lucia a Massapagana<br />

once stood.<br />

The road then proceeded towards Tavarnuzze whose name carries<br />

on the memory of the inn for travelers once found there.<br />

Soon after, it crossed the Greve River at the foot of Castle of<br />

Montebuoni to climb again to San Casciano. Then it descended<br />

into the Val di Pesa where in Ponte Nuovo it split into two routes:<br />

the Sanese road, that crossed the Pesa at Sambuca, reached the<br />

watershed line between the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa, and arrived<br />

in Siena from a path along the ridge, and the Via Romana<br />

that went up the hills that divide the Val di Pesa and the Valdelsa<br />

and it then ran along the bottom of the Valdelsa and of its tributary<br />

Staggia, and also reached Siena after having joined the Via<br />

Francigena at Poggibonsi.<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of San Donato in Poggio<br />

47


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 1:<br />

PORTA SAN MINIATO (FLORENCE)<br />

SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 1<br />

Poggio<br />

Imperiale<br />

La Fonte<br />

Galluzzo<br />

Riccio<br />

Botta<br />

Pozzolatico<br />

Colleramole<br />

Tavarnuzze<br />

Riboia<br />

Pescina<br />

Meccoli<br />

48<br />

Sant’Andrea<br />

in Percussina<br />

LEG 1 to<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

see page 54<br />

Bagnolo<br />

Impruneta<br />

Farmhouse in the Val di Pesa


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Poggio Imperiale, Galluzzo, Pozzolatico, Tavarnuzze<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 440<br />

Distance: km 15.6<br />

Travel time: 5h05’<br />

This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads. There are quite challenging<br />

climbs. There are no problems or possible difficulties in identifying the route.<br />

The leg has innumerable panoramic vantage points.<br />

Note: This leg requires being in good physical condition. There are many<br />

fountains and refreshments available in the towns and villages along the route.<br />

At the end of this leg in S. Andrea in Percussina, you can proceed to S. Casciano<br />

V. Pesa (3.5 km), which offers a greater number of accommodation facilities.<br />

Transport:<br />

Florence<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

To be seen:<br />

Church of San Felice a Ema<br />

Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />

Basilica di S. Maria dell’Impruneta (5 km from Tavarnuzze)<br />

The Machiavelli House – Sant’Andrea in Percussina – San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />

49<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Leg 2<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Leg 3<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Leg 4<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Leg 5<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Siena


DEVOTION<br />

The Miraculous Image of Impruneta<br />

Beyond the legends that flourished around its recovery, it is certain<br />

that the attraction of the miraculous image of the Virgin,<br />

kept in the parish church of Impruneta, quickly spread from the<br />

countryside to the city, instilling in Florentines a special devotion<br />

to the sacred image. Such that, as Repetti wrote (in Dizionario<br />

geografico fisico storico della Toscana 1832-43, vol. II, p. 574),<br />

“... oftentimes the Florentine government in cases of war or misfortunes<br />

like the plague, a long drought or persistent rains, had<br />

recourse to the miraculous image of Our Lady of Impruneta,<br />

whose venerable tabernacle, with a grand escort, a great multitude,<br />

and extreme devotion was brought in a procession to<br />

Florence”.<br />

The importance of the ancient parish church also grew, and it<br />

was renovated and expanded several times beginning in the 15 th<br />

century, until it assumed its current aspect as a large sanctuarybasilica,<br />

complete with a large colonnade in front so as to receive<br />

the ever increasing number of pilgrims who flocked there.<br />

As the fame of this sacred image grew, so did the wealth of the<br />

Impruneta parish church, that was enriched with buildings, rooms<br />

and works of art. (Many of the latter are now kept in the Museum<br />

of the Treasure of Santa Maria of Impruneta).<br />

Confirming the constant flow of pilgrims who went to the basilica,<br />

was the establishment of a preceptory of Jerusalem (the<br />

so-called Commenda) whose task was to give hospitality to those<br />

who came on pilgrimage to Impruneta, sometimes from places<br />

quite far away.<br />

50<br />

The Madonna of Impruneta


To avoid the usual problems of traffic, we suggest starting our<br />

itinerary from the San Miniato city gate - near the Villa Bardini<br />

and reachable from the Via Belvedere - flanked by a remaining<br />

section of the 14 th -century walls. So, after covering a short<br />

stretch of Via del Monte alle Croci, we continue along the picturesque<br />

footpath up Via dell’Erta Canina, an old, stone-paved<br />

road that slopes sharply (hence its name). Moreover, this road<br />

was still used in the 19 th century to go to Siena and Rome, as<br />

evidenced by the simple lines of verse engraved at the base of<br />

a street tabernacle near the end of our steep climb, which invoke<br />

divine protection for travelers in addition to indicating the<br />

distance traveled from Florence (a quarter-mile) and urging that<br />

the horses be rested.<br />

Having turned into the modern Viale Galileo and traveled a small<br />

distance, our route continues along characteristic streets sided<br />

by high walls with traces of antique graffiti; we pass by Via della<br />

Torre del Gallo, Via del Pian dei Giullari, Via Guglielmo Righini<br />

and Via Suor Maria Celeste. Walking behind the Villa Poggio<br />

Imperiale in a countryside dotted with villas and farmhouses –<br />

the landscape typical of the hills of Florence – we come to Via<br />

Gherardo Silvani, at the beginning of which we find the beautiful<br />

Romanesque Church of San Felice a Ema, completely<br />

renovated in the 18 th century.<br />

Then, taking the Via Vecchia di Pozzolatico, we arrive in the<br />

small village of Pozzolatico, whose church, dedicated to Saint<br />

Stephen, has partially retained its original Romanesque character,<br />

which is especially evident in the massive bell tower. Here,<br />

the suggested itinerary includes our first detour to visit a minor<br />

place of pilgrimage yet one of considerable local importance,<br />

especially in Florence. In fact, we find in Pozzolatico one of the<br />

Florentine valley paths that climb the slopes of the Impruneta hill<br />

on which stands the Sanctuary-Basilica of Santa Maria, with<br />

its miraculous image of the Madonna.<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1<br />

51<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

4.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Church of San Felice a Ema<br />

2.1 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />

2.4 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose<br />

2.8 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Poggio di Montebuoni<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

www.vieromee.it


Returning to Pozzolatico to resume our journey, we proceed towards<br />

the Romanesque church of San Lorenzo alle Rose, using<br />

a much less trafficked side street. Here, we can still admire<br />

the landscape of the hills surrounding Florence which have been<br />

shaped by the work of man. Then we begin to descend towards<br />

the village of Tavarnuzze where we intersect state road 2. Rather<br />

than follow the Greve River, like the state road, we suggest following<br />

the path of the medieval road that went up the steep<br />

Montebuoni Hill, where the Buondelmonte castle once stood<br />

and where there was also a hospice (the Hospitale de Montebuoni),<br />

run by the Vallombrosans from the Montescalari Abbey,<br />

which has been documented as early as 1095. Then, we walk<br />

downhill on a steep footpath until we reach state road 2, at Ponte<br />

degli Scopeti, an ancient crossing point over the Greve River.<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 1<br />

From here onwards, our route retraces a good part of the medieval<br />

road to Rome and to Siena since, past Ponte degli Scopeti, we begin<br />

the road that goes to San Casciano, passing through the village<br />

of Sant’Andrea in Percussina, famous for having been the buen<br />

retiro of Niccolò Machiavelli when he retired to the villa after having<br />

been removed from the office of chancellor of the Republic.<br />

The hills of the Val di Pesa<br />

52<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

4.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Church of San Felice a Ema<br />

2.1 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Church of Santo Stefano a Pozzolatico<br />

2.4 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Church of San Lorenzo alle Rose<br />

2.8 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Poggio di Montebuoni<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina


IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

Step by step<br />

This first part of the route is thus described in the Book of<br />

Memories of the Florentine Company of the Holy Sacrament<br />

that went on pilgrimage to Rome in the Holy Year of 1575:<br />

“…we went towards the Gate (San Pietro Gattolini) always a<br />

great number as far as the Gate and San Gaggio inside and<br />

along the streets. As we were still arriving near the gate we<br />

met a company near the gate that accompanied us lovingly<br />

as far as San Gaggio and then we went on our Holy <strong>Pilgrim</strong>age<br />

cheerfully with God’s name and we came to the Church<br />

of Santo Andrea above mentioned, at midday we were invited<br />

with greatest charity to refresh ourselves and sit at a table with<br />

4 priests always speaking of spiritual things and then we left,<br />

singing ever more psalms”.<br />

Farm road near San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />

53


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 2:<br />

SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA<br />

MONTEFIRIDOLFI<br />

Sant’Andrea<br />

in Percussina<br />

Continuing of LEG 1<br />

see page 48<br />

Falciani<br />

Montecapri<br />

Le Querce<br />

La Bruscola<br />

Molinaccio<br />

San Casciano<br />

Crespeccioli<br />

Canciulle<br />

Calzaiolo<br />

Bibbione Castle<br />

Mocale<br />

54<br />

Bargino<br />

Loggetta<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

The Parish Church of Santa Cecilia a Decimo


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

San Casciano, Calzaiolo, Bibbione Castle<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 210<br />

Distance: km 14<br />

Travel time: 3h55’<br />

This leg is mainly on secondary asphalt roads, with a stretch of dirt road between<br />

San Casciano and Calzaiolo. There are steep climbs. There are no problems<br />

with orientation or unclear identification of the route.<br />

Many panoramic points over the Chianti hills are found along this leg.<br />

Note: The length of this leg is limited with little elevation gain and does not<br />

require specific physical training. There is a tough, approximately 1-km climb<br />

after Calzaiolo. Water is available in the villages and towns.<br />

Transport:<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

To be seen:<br />

Museo d’Arte Sacra – San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />

Montefiridolfi Castle<br />

55<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Leg 2<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Leg 3<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Leg 4<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Leg 5<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Siena


HOSPITALITY<br />

The Inns of the Machiavelli Family<br />

An important place-name, Spedaletto derives its name from the<br />

existence of a hospice known to have been located here beginning<br />

in the 14 th century, whose patrons were the Machiavelli family. In<br />

addition to this charitable structure for poor travelers and pilgrims,<br />

the Machiavelli family ran a series of inns on the stretch of road<br />

between Florence and San Casciano. In fact, the 1427 Florentine<br />

Cadastral records show that a number of properties belonged to<br />

various branches of the family: one inn just outside the city walls<br />

at Porta San Pietro Gattolino; another in Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

(standing beside the 13 th -century manor house of the Florentine<br />

Secretary, called, not surprisingly, the Albergaccio), and a third was<br />

located in castro Sancti Chasciani.<br />

The Albergaccio, the Machiavelli House, Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

56


Proceeding past Sant’Andrea in Percussina towards San Casciano,<br />

we come across Spedaletto, a typical elongated village that<br />

lines the sides of the road.<br />

Built at an intersection with a cross road connecting the Val di<br />

Pesa and the Val di Greve, the origins of San Casciano are reflected<br />

in the oldest part of the town, that lies along two main<br />

streets that intersect, forming an X. Because of its importance as<br />

a stopping point, the town was home not only to inns but also<br />

to many hospices between the late 13 th and the early 14 th centuries,<br />

including: the Hospice of Santa Cristina, that of San Lorenzo,<br />

a Hospitale domine Mate and one kept by the Dominicans.<br />

Along a separate route that runs parallel to state road 2 and<br />

keeping to its left, our itinerary continues down into the Pesa<br />

River valley floor, which is reached at Calzaiolo. The town owes<br />

its name to the fact that Giovanni, son of Pietro, known as Calzaiolo,<br />

together with his wife Carina had founded a hospice here<br />

in 1139, whose structures – despite numerous renovations – are<br />

still preserved, together with the church annexed to it.<br />

We continue for just over a kilometer along the state road following<br />

the Pesa River course until we reach Monte di Sassi. We<br />

turn left here to go up to Bibbione Castle, then continue on to<br />

Villa La Loggia and Montefiridolfi.<br />

Bibbione Castle<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 2<br />

57<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina<br />

0.7 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Spedaletto<br />

2.9 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

San Casciano<br />

4 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Calzaiolo<br />

2.6 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Bibbione Castle<br />

3.8 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

www.vieromee.it


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 3:<br />

MONTEFIRIDOLFI<br />

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />

Startin point<br />

of LEG 2<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Vignano<br />

Acquaviva<br />

Monte Lodoli<br />

Fabbrio<br />

Badia a Passignano<br />

Sambuca<br />

Il Poggiolino<br />

Casetto<br />

San Giustino<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

58<br />

LEG 2 to<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

see page 64<br />

Fermignano<br />

San Donato<br />

in Poggio<br />

The Sambuca Bridge (Mappe di Popoli e Strade dei Capitani di Parte Guelfa, 1585)


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Badia a Passignano, Sambuca<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 260<br />

Distance: km 15.5<br />

Travel time: 4h45’<br />

The leg covers both asphalt side roads and dirt roads. No problems with orientation<br />

or possible unclear identification of the route, even when on dirt roads. The climbs<br />

are not particularly demanding.<br />

The itinerary includes panoramic views of the Chianti hills.<br />

Note: This leg covers a limited distance with reasonable elevation gain. There is a<br />

3-km stretch of dirt road between Santa Maria a Macerata and Badia a Passignano.<br />

From Badia a Passignano, you can take an alternative route through Rignana and<br />

Fornace that leads to S. Donato in Poggio. Instead, care must be taken on the main<br />

itinerary because of the motor traffic on a 4-km stretch along the Via Chiantigiana<br />

between Sambuca and Castellina in Chianti.<br />

Water is available in the villages and towns.<br />

Transport:<br />

Monteridolfi<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

To be seen:<br />

Abbey of Passignano<br />

Bridge of Romagliano in Sambuca Val di Pesa<br />

Village of San Donato in Poggio<br />

Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio<br />

59<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Leg 2<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Leg 3<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Leg 4<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Leg 5<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Siena


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 3<br />

After Monteridolfi, we pass Santa Maria Macerata until we<br />

reach the Abbey of Passignano, another pilgrimage destination<br />

as it holds the body of Saint John Gualbert, the founder of<br />

the Vallombrosan order.<br />

From the Abbey of Passignano, we can go directly to San Donato<br />

in Poggio on a hilly route that passes mainly through wooded<br />

areas. Heading instead towards the valley floor, where the medieval<br />

Via Sanese passed, we reach Sambuca, a village built near<br />

the ancient Bridge of Ramagliano, documented since the mid-12 th<br />

century. As usually happened at river crossings, there were inns and<br />

hostels as well as charitable institutions to be found. In particular,<br />

regarding to the latter, there had been a hospice run since 1123<br />

by the monks from the Abbey of Passignano, which seems to have<br />

been near the Bridge of Ramagliano. There was then a Hospice of<br />

San Lazzaro, documented since the end of the 13 th century, and the<br />

Hospice of San Nicola, commonly known as il Chiesino.<br />

Passing through all the old town of Sambuca, whose urban layout<br />

developed along the road where it rose, we start to climb a very<br />

steep slope to reach the ridge of hills separating the Valdelsa and<br />

the Val di Pesa. The route on which we walk is a direct successor<br />

to the ancient Via Sanese, and soon brings us to San Donato in<br />

Poggio, passing before the homonymous parish church, located<br />

just outside the ancient walls of the castle that has retained substantially<br />

intact its medieval urban layout.<br />

Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio<br />

60<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

6.6 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Abbey of Passignano<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Sambuca<br />

4.6 km<br />

Time:1h35’<br />

San Donato<br />

in Poggio


LAND OF SAINTS<br />

The Relics of Saint John Gualbert in Passignano<br />

Probably founded by the Lombards, the Benedictine Abbey of San<br />

Michele Arcangelo a Passignano was offered around the mid-11 th<br />

century by the lords who had its patronage to Saint John Gualbert<br />

who had founded some years earlier in Vallombrosa a new monastic<br />

congregation actively engaged in reforming the Church. The<br />

saint restored the monastery and established a small community<br />

there, which was led by his disciple Leto. And it was in Passignano<br />

itself that in 1073 the saint ended his earthly days; therefore the<br />

monastery, custodian of the remains of the founder of the Vallombrosan<br />

congregation, came to occupy a prestigious position within<br />

the order itself, and became a pilgrimage destination, also benefiting<br />

from its proximity to the Via Sanese, one of the pilgrims’ routes<br />

to Rome.<br />

Thanks to numerous donations obtained as a result of the monks’<br />

fervor, the Abbey of Passignano came to possess many landed<br />

properties. The monastery grew to the current majestic complex<br />

with buildings from various eras (including a hospice for<br />

pilgrims and travelers), encircled within 14 th -century walls. The<br />

Romanesque-style church was enlarged and modernized in the<br />

late Renaissance: it contains the precious reliquary-bust of Saint<br />

John Gualbert, the work of 15 th -century Florentine goldsmiths; it<br />

is made of embossed and chiseled silver with a base consisting of<br />

20 small cuspated aedicules, decorated with scenes in fine enamel<br />

that illustrate the saint’s miracles and stories from his life.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

San Donato in Poggio and the Parish Church<br />

The church has its original architectural features, and is indeed<br />

one of the most artistically perfect Romanesque buildings in the<br />

Florentine countryside because of the elegant facing of its walls<br />

with courses of white limestone, recalling the marmoreal brilliance<br />

of the main Romanesque churches in Florence.<br />

San Donato was one of the main stopping points along the Via<br />

Sanese: in “Sainct Donast est le commencement de la Seigneurie<br />

des Florentins”, wrote an anonymous Frenchman on his way<br />

to Rome in 1480, one of the many pilgrims who stopped there.<br />

Inside the castle, there is evidence that a hospice dedicated to<br />

Saint Luke once existed, as well as a Hospitale Communis, which<br />

housed the poor of Christ and the hospitalers.<br />

61


Starting point of LEG 3<br />

Alternative Route<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

Leg 3, Alternative Route:<br />

BADIA A PASSIGNANO<br />

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Vignano<br />

Monte Lodoli<br />

Acquaviva<br />

Fabbrio<br />

Badia a Passignano<br />

Sambuca<br />

MAIN<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Il Poggiolino<br />

Casetto<br />

San Giustino<br />

Rignana<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

Fermignano<br />

Fornace<br />

62<br />

San Donato<br />

in Poggio<br />

Pietracupa<br />

LEG 2/3, Alternative route to<br />

Pieve a Panzano<br />

see page 68<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Abbey of Passignano


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Rignana, Fornace, Pietracupa<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 330<br />

Distance: km 8,9<br />

Travel time: 3h<br />

The alternative route for leg 3 starts in Badia a Passignano after traveling<br />

6.6 km from Montefiridolfi. From the Abbey, the alternative route joins the<br />

road for Poggio al Vento, which we follow for about 2 km. In this stretch,<br />

we find a steep climb that goes from Borro di Rimaggio to the fork for<br />

Casa Poggio al Vento. After passing the crossroads, we continue on the<br />

left for about 800 meters to the small bridge over the Fosso Casasilia. We<br />

continue along the dirt road that follows the crest of the hills as far as Santa<br />

Maria a Rignana, and then, past Rignana, we come to another crossroads<br />

after about 1 km. We turn right and descend to the Pesa River as far<br />

as the little bridge in Fornace. This is the beginning of a demanding, uphill<br />

climb, more than 2 km long, that brings us to Pietracupa. We then pass<br />

near the ruins of the village of Fornace until reaching the edge of a wood.<br />

Keeping to the left on the uphill dirt road, we pass through the villages of<br />

Casalino and Podere Ripoli. Here we find a dirt road on the right that leads<br />

us to Montecchio farm and the entrance to La Papessa holiday farm. From<br />

there, we reach an asphalt road that we follow for a few hundred metres<br />

as far as the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pietracupa.<br />

The route has many panoramic viewpoints over the Val di Pesa. This leg<br />

is entirely on forest roads with no orientation problems. The climbs are of<br />

medium difficulty.<br />

63<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Abbey of Passignano<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

6,6 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

8,9 km<br />

Time: 3h


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 4:<br />

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />

CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI<br />

San Donato<br />

in Poggio<br />

Pietracupa<br />

Continuing of LEG 2<br />

see page 58<br />

Il Leccio<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

Caselline<br />

San Silvestro<br />

Santa Maria Grignano<br />

La Valle<br />

San Damè<br />

Protine<br />

Faggeto<br />

Pietrafitta<br />

Gualdolino<br />

Sassocupo<br />

Monastero di Sotto<br />

Cavallari<br />

Sommavilla<br />

Cellole<br />

64<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Pietracupa, San Silvestro, Protine, Pietrafitta, Monastero di Sotto.<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 615<br />

Distance: km 17.2<br />

Travel time: 5h55’<br />

After the initial 2.5 km along an asphalt road, the route continues on dirt roads<br />

and trails. There are many forks along these forest roads, so special attention<br />

must be paid to the signs. The route then unwinds almost exclusively in forests<br />

where oak species prevail. There are steep climbs, of which the most difficult is<br />

definitely the one that goes from Cerchiaio to Pietrafitta.<br />

Note: This leg requires good physical training. Water is available only in the<br />

villages and towns.<br />

Transport:<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

To be seen:<br />

Hospice of San Giorgio alle Rose<br />

Village and fortress of Castellina in Chianti<br />

Archeological Museum of the Sienese Chianti – Castellina in Chianti<br />

65<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Leg 2<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Leg 3<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Leg 4<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Leg 5<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Siena


66<br />

Fortress of Castellina


From San Donato in Poggio, our itinerary, that retraces the ancient<br />

Via Sanese continues along the panoramic Provincial Road<br />

76 that offers sweeping views over both the Val di Pesa and Val<br />

d’Elsa. Just outside the castle, at the fork with the road to Panzano,<br />

is the Oratory of the Madonna of Pietracupa, a lesser<br />

pilgrimage destination but of considerable local importance beginning<br />

at the end of the 16 th century.<br />

Shortly after, in San Giorgio alle Rose, there is a Romanesque<br />

church with a rectangular hall but no apse that overlooks the<br />

road: it is the ancient Hospice of San Giorgio all’Eroso, documented<br />

as early as the 12 th century. The farmhouse across the<br />

road incorporates the remains of a tavern, that was noted in<br />

the 16 th -century Mappe di Popoli e Strade of the Capitani di<br />

Parte Guelfa.<br />

Just beyond the Hospice of San Giorgio, we leave the provincial<br />

road behind and take the local road to the left that goes down<br />

into the Val di Pesa, passing by the San Silvestro and Protine<br />

farmhouses. To the side of the latter is a small single-nave Romanesque<br />

church with an apse whose original characteristics are<br />

practically intact. We continue to the Cerchiaia mill and then<br />

proceed towards Pietrafitta on a steeply sloping dirt road that<br />

intersects the Chianti state road. We continue on a dirt road as<br />

far as Pietrafitta, an ancient Chianti castle, of which some structures<br />

still remain in addition to the parish church, renovated in the<br />

19 th century. We keep on as far as the Casanuova farmhouse, then<br />

cross a wooded area to head towards the Monastero di Sotto,<br />

the former residence of the Vallombrosan monks, now used as a<br />

holiday farm. From here, we continue across dirt roads up to San<br />

Martino and then to Castellina after only five hundred meters.<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4<br />

Castellina in Chianti, an ancient outpost of the Florentine Republic,<br />

retains the mighty defensive works built at the beginning<br />

of the 15 th century. An important stopping point along the<br />

way, Castellina had a Hospitale pauperum dedicated to Saint<br />

Michael and offered various forms of commercial hospitality<br />

(inns, hostels).<br />

67<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

2.4 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Ancient Hospice<br />

of San Giorgio all’Eroso<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

San Silvestro<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

Protine<br />

2.7 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Pietrafitta<br />

3.2 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Monastero di Sotto<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

www.vieromee.it


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE:<br />

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO<br />

PIETRAFITTA<br />

Starting point of LEG 2/3, Alternative route B<br />

Continuing of LEG 2/3, Alternative route A<br />

San Donato<br />

in Poggio<br />

see page 62<br />

Sicelle<br />

Pietracupa<br />

Il Leccio<br />

Sant’Eufrosino<br />

Lucarelli<br />

Panzano<br />

Pieve a Panzano<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

Caselline<br />

MAIN<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Santa Maria Grignano<br />

La Valle<br />

San Damè<br />

Pietrafitta<br />

Faggeto<br />

Gualdolino<br />

68<br />

Sassocupo<br />

Monastero di Sotto<br />

Cellole<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Cavallari<br />

Sommavilla<br />

LEG 2/3, Alternative route B to<br />

Siena<br />

see page 62<br />

Landscape along the itinerary


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Pietracupa, Sicelle, Sant’Eufrosino, Pieve a Panzano, Lucarelli<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 580<br />

Distance: km 14.5<br />

Travel time: 5h10’<br />

This leg is 50% on asphalt roads and 50% on gravel and grass roads. Again,<br />

in this case, there are no orientation problems or difficulties in identifying the<br />

route. This is a very demanding leg that requires proper physical training. There<br />

is a variety of sometimes very steep climbs, with a total elevation gain of 710 m.<br />

On top of that, it is over 19 km long.<br />

Transport:<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

To be seen:<br />

Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino<br />

Parish Church of San Leolino – Panzano<br />

Note: Those who are doing the bike itinerary and are coming from Montefiridolfi,<br />

will stop in Panzano, then onward to Siena with a very challenging<br />

new leg.<br />

69<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Pietrafitta<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

14,5 km<br />

Time: 5h10’<br />

5 km<br />

Time: 1h35’


DEVOTION<br />

Pietracupa and the Miraculous Image of the Madonna<br />

Along the Via Sanese there was a road tabernacle dedicated to<br />

the Virgin, with the frescoed image painted there, set on a large<br />

limestone block. At the end of the 16 th century, the story spread<br />

that this image performed miracles. The local people began to<br />

make pilgrimages there and, as a result, bequests and donations<br />

grew to the point that the construction of a true sanctuary was<br />

carried out to house the tabernacle and the fresco. In 1596, the<br />

oldest part of the building was built: a church hall whose architectural<br />

features reflected the classical canons of 16 th -century Mannerism.<br />

During the 17 th century, with the further growth in popular<br />

devotion and, consequently, in pilgrimages, the church was<br />

expanded with the addition of three chapels in the presbytery.<br />

At the same time, to meet the needs of the ever more numerous<br />

lay companies that went there, a large arcade that surrounds the<br />

building on three sides was built, giving it the typical aspect of<br />

a church that was a pilgrimage destination. (L. BIADI, Memorie<br />

storiche del piviere di San Pietro in Bossolo, Florence 1848).<br />

Oratory of the Madonna of Pietracupa<br />

70


The road that at the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pietracupa<br />

breaks off from the Via Sanese winds through the hills that<br />

slope toward the bottom of the Val di Pesa along a path that<br />

runs across the whole valley in the direction of Panzano Castle,<br />

with another nearby holy place, a pilgrimage destination<br />

– also in this case – of mostly local importance, the Sanctuary<br />

of Sant’Eufrosino. This alternative route, though longer, also<br />

takes us to Castellina in Chianti and then rejoins the Via Sanese.<br />

Along the way we find the turreted Valle manor house, then the<br />

small village of Sicelle, with its parish church rebuilt consistent<br />

with the original style in the early 20 th century. Upon reaching<br />

the Castagnoli farmhouse, we turn left to cross the Pesa River<br />

and then climb up to the Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino.<br />

Interior of the Parish Church of San Leolino<br />

71<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 4, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE<br />

Leaving Sant’Eufrosino, we go on in the direction of the Parish<br />

Church of San Leolino a Panzano, passing the Via di Mezzo<br />

farmhouse and reaching the state road 222 in Ferruzzi where<br />

the short road that leads to the church branches off.<br />

Recorded as a rural church as early as the 10 th century, San Leolino<br />

has preserved its original Romanesque structures inside despite<br />

the façade having been renovated in the 16 th century. It has<br />

three aisles that are separated by a series of arches on pillars. It<br />

contains ancient and precious artworks, including a panel painting<br />

attributed to Meliore, depicting the Madonna Enthroned<br />

with Saints Peter and Paul, a polyptych by Mariotto di Nardo<br />

also portraying the Madonna and Saints, a late 14 th century triptych<br />

of the Sienese school, and a 15 th -century Florentine school<br />

cuspated panel painting.<br />

The ancient Chianti dirt road runs behind the church. It passes<br />

the Le Masse and Castagnoli farmhouses and leads to the small<br />

hamlet of Lucarelli, on state road 222. Here we cross the Pesa<br />

River again and start climbing anew the slopes of the hills below<br />

Castellina. We continue past the Scovo and Casuccia farmhouses<br />

and arrive in Pietrafitta.<br />

Stone-paved road along the route<br />

72<br />

www.vieromee.it


DEVOTION<br />

The Water of Saint Eufrosino<br />

What distinguishes the church of Sant’Eufrosino from the other<br />

minor loca sacra (holy places) on our routes is its considerable antiquity.<br />

The cult of Saint Eufrosino, in fact, dates back to the early<br />

Middle Ages and most likely relates to the effort to evangelize the<br />

Lombard Arians on the part of eastern missionaries sent to Tuscia<br />

from Rome beginning in the 620s. As early as about the 8 th century,<br />

an oratory was erected on the site where one of them, known<br />

for his charity, was buried, as confirmed by the remains of a richly<br />

carved chancel screen recently brought to light during church<br />

restoration work. Today the church displays the simple and austere<br />

forms resulting from a radical, 15 th -century reconstruction,<br />

with a wide and uncluttered nave and a small external arcade<br />

for pilgrims. The pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Sant’Eufrosino<br />

was largely because of a belief in the saint’s thaumaturgic virtues<br />

associated with the miraculous water from the little well placed<br />

inside a small chapel located next to the church, and from a small<br />

fountain inside a nearby aedicule.<br />

When ill, people from the surrounding areas came to bathe or<br />

dip their limbs in the water of Saint Eufrosino. The water was also<br />

thought to have galactophorus qualities if ingested, thus presenting<br />

a solution to one of the most distressing problems of peasant<br />

societies of the past (R. STOPANI, Un Santuario altomedievale nel<br />

Chianti. L’oratorio di Sant’Eufrosino a Panzano, Centro di Studi<br />

Chiantigiani “Clante”, Florence 1997).<br />

Small fountain of Sant’Eufrosino<br />

73


2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE<br />

LEG 5:<br />

CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI<br />

UOPINI (SIENA)<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Starting point of<br />

LEG 3<br />

Il Mandorlo<br />

Continuing of LEG 2/3,<br />

Alternative route B<br />

see page 68<br />

Cagnano di Sopra<br />

Il Trebbio<br />

Tramonti<br />

Fonterutoli<br />

Caggio<br />

Bellosguardo<br />

Pietralta<br />

Gallozzole<br />

Querciagrossa<br />

Gaggiola<br />

Santa Chiara<br />

Ripa Poggiarello<br />

Basciano<br />

(Ripa Poggiarello 1 km)<br />

74<br />

Santa Fortunata<br />

Uopini<br />

Tognazza<br />

Acquaviva<br />

Piazza Duomo<br />

(Siena)<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w along the route


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Fonterutoli, Querciagrossa, Basciano (Ripa Poggiarello 1 Km)<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 320<br />

Distance: km 21<br />

Travel time: 6h 05’<br />

This leg takes place almost exclusively on gravel roads and on trails. The route<br />

is readily identifiable and there are no difficulties or problems of orientation.<br />

This leg is particularly demanding for the distance to be covered. It spreads<br />

over a hilly environment of great beauty and fascination with valleys and hills<br />

characterized by alternating cultivated fields and hardwood groves. Some of the<br />

land crossed belongs to farmers who also raise Cinta Senese pigs.<br />

Note: For hikers, Uopini is considered the end of this leg. From here public<br />

transport can be used to reach the town of Siena (lines 036, 527, 528, 573,<br />

596, or visit website http://www.sienamobilita.it/).<br />

Transport:<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Fonterutoli<br />

Siena<br />

75<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Leg 2<br />

S. Andrea in Percussina<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Leg 3<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Leg 4<br />

S. Donato in Poggio<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Leg 5<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Siena


Beyond Castellina, state road 222 basically follows the route of<br />

the ancient Via Sanese as far as Siena.<br />

Long stretches of the medieval route – now a country road – have<br />

survived and run parallel to the state road. Useful as an alternative<br />

route, it enables going to all the many places that were once<br />

stopping points along the road, as well as reaching Siena.<br />

Then we encounter the village of Fonterutoli where the tavern<br />

Osteria di Fonte Rutili is shown on the 16 th century maps of the<br />

Capitani di Parte Guelfa, depicting also the spring that gave the<br />

village its name.<br />

2 nd Itinerary - THE VIA SANESE - LEG 5<br />

Then we encounter the village of Frassi, where now is a holiday<br />

farm, not on the state road, and then on to Quercegrossa, a Sienese<br />

castle that housed the Hospice of San Jacopo recorded in the 1349<br />

Sienese Statutes.<br />

Using back roads that run parallel with the state road, we pass the<br />

farmhouses of Sornanino, Sornano and Casalino and we reach the<br />

Molino di Quercegrossa, the town that grew on the site of the<br />

Sienese castle.<br />

At Molino di Quercegrossa, we cross the state road and proceed<br />

towards Siena along dirt roads, past the Molino dello Staggia,<br />

Basciano and Palazzetto. We cross under the Florence-Siena<br />

highway and the railway and come to Molinuzzo. Siena is now<br />

near. Our itinerary comes across a final stopping point before<br />

reaching the city: the small village of Uopini, with its small church<br />

that has preserved intact its original Romanesque features. One<br />

could count on the assistance given in Uopini at the hospice there,<br />

which offered eight places to pilgrims.<br />

76<br />

From here, the bus takes us up to the majestic outer gate of<br />

Camollia where we enter Siena through the 14 th -century walls.<br />

Following Via di Camollia, Via dei Montanini, Banchi di Sopra<br />

and Via di Città, we find to the right Via del Capitano that leads<br />

us into the Piazza del Duomo. Before the old building of the<br />

hospice of Santa Maria della Scala in front of the cathedral<br />

our journey ends.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

1.7 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Godenano<br />

Fonterutoli<br />

5.4 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Casalino<br />

5 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

La Staggia<br />

4.5 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Basciano<br />

Uopini<br />

3 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)


Torre del Mangia, Piazza del Campo in Siena<br />

77


ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />

78<br />

Sant’Andrea in Percussina, San Casciano<br />

Art B&B<br />

Via della Volta, 6<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8290372<br />

Fax: 055 8294149<br />

info@bbart.eu<br />

www.bbart.eu<br />

Di Chiara Michela Affittacamere<br />

Via Volterrana, 287<br />

Chiesanuova<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 827209<br />

La Fonte del Machiavelli B&B<br />

Via Scopeti, 54<br />

Sant’ Andrea in Percussina<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8249598 - Fax: 055 8249598<br />

info@lafontedelmachiavelli.com<br />

www.lafontedelmachiavelli.com<br />

Massanera Agriturismo<br />

Via Faltignano, 76<br />

Chiesanuova<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8242360<br />

Fax: 055 8242441<br />

info@massanera.com<br />

www.massanera.com<br />

Parrocchia San Casciano<br />

Via Guarucci, 8<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 820218<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

Il Convento di Bini Cristina Affittacamere<br />

Via Collina, 11<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 0558244449<br />

Petigliolo Affittacamere<br />

Via Petigliolo, 19/a<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8244029<br />

Sant’Angello Affittacamere<br />

Via Collina, 56<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 333 8001684<br />

Villa S. Andrea Affittacamere<br />

Via di Fabbrica<br />

Montefiridolfi<br />

50026 San Casciano Val Di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8249033<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Azienda Agricola Conio<br />

Via Sinigogola, 1<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8072055 - 055 8072822<br />

Fax: 055 8072822<br />

www.aziendaagricolaconio.it<br />

B&B Palazzo Malaspina<br />

Via del Giglio, 35<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8072946<br />

www.palazzomalaspina.it<br />

Fattoria la Ripa<br />

Strada Provinciale per Castellina, 27<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50021 Barberino Valdelsa<br />

Tel: 055 8072948<br />

laripa@laripa.it<br />

www.laripa.it<br />

Il Glicine Affittacamere<br />

Via de’ Baluardi, 5a<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8071604 - Fax: 055 8071604<br />

info@lifeinchianti.com<br />

La Papessa Affittacamere<br />

Via Montecchio, 4<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8072363<br />

Pietracupa Affittacamere<br />

Via Madonna di Pietracupa, 31<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

50028 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Tel: 055 8072400 - Fax: 055 8072142<br />

info@locandapietracupa.com<br />

www.locandapietracupa.com<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Castello Fonterutoli B&B<br />

Via Ottone III, 5<br />

Loc. Fonterutoli<br />

53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />

Tel. 0577 741385<br />

Podere Monastero Affittacamere<br />

Monastero, 37<br />

53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />

Tel: 0577 740436<br />

Tatini Andrea Affittacamere<br />

San Martino, 28<br />

53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />

Tel: 0577 740534


Cell: 329 8113124<br />

info@casatatini.com<br />

www.casatatini.com<br />

Villa Cristina Affittacamere<br />

Via Fiorentina, 34<br />

53011 Castellina in Chianti<br />

Tel: 0577 741166 - Fax: 0577 742936<br />

info@villacristina.it<br />

www.villacristina.it<br />

Siena<br />

Accoglienza Santa Luisa<br />

Via San Girolamo, 8<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 284377<br />

Alma Domus Santuario Santa Caterina<br />

Via Camporegio, 31<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 44177 - Fax: 0577 47601<br />

Caritas Affittacamere<br />

Via della Diana, 4<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 280643<br />

caritas@carita-sfiera.org<br />

www.caritas-siena.org<br />

Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi<br />

P.za A. Manzoni, 8<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 222633<br />

Casa per ferie Istituto Maria de’ Gori<br />

Via dei Servi, 31<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 221076<br />

Fax: 0577 221298<br />

Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto<br />

Via del Lecceto, 6<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 349393<br />

Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio<br />

Via Fiorentina, 89<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 52212<br />

siena@ostellionline.org<br />

www.ostelloguidoriccio.com<br />

Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII<br />

Via Montarioso, 35<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 587011<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

Impruneta Associazione Pro Loco<br />

Piazza Garibaldi<br />

Tel. 055 2313729<br />

www.proimpruneta.rdt.it<br />

Comune di Impruneta (urp):<br />

Tel: 055 2036430 / 428<br />

UPT San Casciano<br />

Public library<br />

of San Casciano in Val di Pesa<br />

Via Roma, 37 - 50026 San Casciano<br />

in Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8256380<br />

Fax: 055 8229920<br />

www.comune.san-casciano-val-di-pesa.fi.it<br />

Pro Loco Tavarnelle in Val di Pesa<br />

Piazza Matteotti<br />

50020 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8077832<br />

Fax: 055 8077832<br />

www.prolocotavarnelle.it<br />

Tourist information Panzano in Chianti<br />

Via Le Ginestre, 9<br />

50020 Panzano in Chianti (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 0940024<br />

www.panzanoinchianti.com<br />

Pro Loco San Donato in Poggio<br />

Via del Giglio, 47<br />

50020 San Donato In Poggio,<br />

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (Florence)<br />

Tel: 0558072338<br />

www.sandonatoinpoggio.it<br />

Pro Loco Radda in Chianti<br />

Piazza Castello, 2<br />

53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 838003<br />

Fax: 0577 738062<br />

www.comune.radda-in-chianti.si.it<br />

Proloco Castellina in Chianti<br />

Via Ferruccio, 40<br />

53011 Castellina In Chianti (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 741392 - 0577 741393<br />

www.chiantistorico.com/it/contact/castellina.php<br />

Library of Castellina in Chianti<br />

Via Pietro Nenni, 26<br />

53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 740201<br />

Fax: 0577 742355<br />

www.castellinainchianti.com<br />

APT Siena<br />

Piazza del Campo 56<br />

53100 Siena (Si)<br />

Tel: 0577 280551 - 0577 42209<br />

Fax: 0577 270676 - 0577 28104<br />

aptsiena@siena.turismo.toscana.it<br />

www.terresiena.it<br />

79


Tourist information office Siena<br />

Piazza Rosselli - 53100 Siena (SI)<br />

Tel. 0577 270600<br />

www.comune.siena.it<br />

Rental<br />

Alinari<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via Guelfa, 85r - 50129 - Florence<br />

Tel: 055 280500<br />

www.alinarirental.com<br />

Florence by bike<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via San Zanobi, 120/122r<br />

50129 - Florence<br />

Tel. e Fax: 055 488 992<br />

www.florencebybike.it<br />

Rent Way<br />

P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />

50122 - Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820<br />

www.rentway.it<br />

info@rentway.it<br />

Ciclosport di Porciatti<br />

Via Trento, 82<br />

53036 - Poggibonsi (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 938507<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte<br />

Feast of San Michele Arcangelo<br />

(last Sunday of September)<br />

Castellina in Chianti<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Fausto<br />

(third Sunday of September)<br />

Castelnuovo Berardenga<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Giusto<br />

and Clemente (5 June)<br />

Good Friday Procession, Stations of the<br />

Cross in costume (Easter)<br />

Greve in Chianti<br />

Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />

Greve in Chianti Loc. Panzano<br />

Festival of “Stagion Bona”,<br />

historical re-enactment (April)<br />

Feast of Sante Marie and fair<br />

(15 August)<br />

Impruneta<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Luca<br />

(18 October)<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint,<br />

Maria Vergine (8 September)<br />

Festa dei Rioni and Torneo del Barilotto<br />

(September)<br />

80<br />

Ciclofficina di Bettini<br />

Via Redipuglia, 17/19<br />

53036 - Poggibonsi (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 936881<br />

Furgoncin<br />

Via Cassia Nord<br />

53035 - Castellina Scalo, Monteriggioni (SI)<br />

Tel: 0577 305015<br />

Centro bici<br />

Viale Toselli, 110<br />

53100 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 282550<br />

DF Motor<br />

Via dei Gazzani, 16<br />

53100 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 288387<br />

DF Bike<br />

Via massetana romana, 54<br />

53100 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 271905<br />

Radda in Chianti<br />

Festa del Perdono<br />

(beginning of September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Niccolò<br />

(29 September)<br />

San Casciano Val di Pesa<br />

Festa della Battitura (28 June)<br />

Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Casciano<br />

(13 August)<br />

San Donato in Poggio<br />

Borgo incantato (end of June)<br />

Feast of San Donato (7 August)<br />

Corpus Domini Procession with flowers<br />

(14 June)<br />

Siena<br />

Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May)<br />

Palio della Madonna di Provenzano<br />

(2 July)<br />

Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August)<br />

Santa Lucia (13 December)<br />

Sant’Ansano (1 December)<br />

Events and Fairs<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />

Feast of Beato Davanzato<br />

(first Sunday in July)<br />

Feast of San Bartolomeo (24 August)<br />

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa<br />

Pentecost Festival (May, June)<br />

Borgo Incantato (June)<br />

Festa della Battitura (July)<br />

Feast of Santa Lucia


3 rd ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA PISANA<br />

and the connection to the Francigena<br />

Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />

81<br />

The strata per quam itur Pisas represented a predominantly commercial<br />

artery for medieval Florence. Together with the Arno - at<br />

that time an inland waterway – it served to channel the flow of<br />

traffic from the larger towns in the lower Valdarno district, and<br />

that to the port of Pisa. Yet the road was also used by pilgrims<br />

going to Pisa – and later, to Leghorn – for embarkation to Santiago<br />

de Compostela, also because it could be used as a link<br />

to the Via Francigena, the quintessential via peregrinalis, whose<br />

route was intersected southwest of Empoli, near the confluence<br />

of the Elsa into the Arno River.


3 rd ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA PISANA<br />

and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

(Florence)<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

82<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

350<br />

300<br />

250<br />

200<br />

150<br />

100<br />

50<br />

00<br />

Starting Point: Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />

End point: Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

Elevation gain:<br />

Le Piagge Railway Station<br />

Renai Park<br />

Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

Church of Sant’Ippolito<br />

Il Torrino (landscape)<br />

Detour to Castle of Oliveto<br />

S. Martino Maiano, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />

Junction S. Martino Maiano, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />

Junction S. Martino, Casale - S. Lazzaro detour<br />

Ancient village of Cerbaia<br />

Castle of the Chiocciola<br />

Castle of the Villa


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 135.9<br />

Distance (local itinerary): km 4.8<br />

Distance (alternative route): km 12.9<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Lastra a Signa<br />

Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway<br />

Station, Renai Park, Signa<br />

Distance: km 15.5 - Page 88<br />

Leg 2: Lastra a Signa – Empoli<br />

Waypoints: Villa Caruso, Hermitage of Lecceto, Malmantile,<br />

Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana<br />

Distance: km 21.9 - Page 94<br />

Leg 3: Empoli – Castelfiorentino<br />

Waypoints: Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />

Distance: km 21 - Page 100<br />

Leg 4: Castelfiorentino – Certaldo<br />

Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano<br />

Distance: km 15.1 - Page 106<br />

Leg 4, Local Itinerary: Castello di Oliveto<br />

Distance: km 4.8 - Page 110<br />

Leg 5: Certaldo – Poggibonsi<br />

Waypoints: Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bascinano,<br />

San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano<br />

Distance: km 20.9 - Page 112<br />

Legs 4 / 5, Alternative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi<br />

Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />

Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118<br />

Leg 6: Poggibonsi – Monteriggioni<br />

Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove<br />

Distance: km 21 - Page 122<br />

Leg 7: Monteriggioni – Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

Waypoints: Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola,<br />

Casalino, Le Querce<br />

Distance: km 20.5 - Page 126<br />

83<br />

After passing through Cascine Park in Florence, our route goes on along the<br />

shared-use path that leads to Renai Park in Signa. We continue along the hills<br />

in the western end of Chianti, staying on the right bank of the Elsa River. The<br />

landscape of inestimable beauty offers views over rural panoramas that are<br />

characterized by 19 th -century farms with vineyards, olive groves, woods, and<br />

cultivated fields.<br />

The tour unwinds on dirt and asphalt roads and alternates between tourist-style<br />

and hiking stretches. In rural areas, there may be orientation problems due to<br />

insufficient signage and place-name information. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the<br />

route runs parallel to the Via Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from<br />

Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, and Acquaviva.<br />

Note: The legs are easily practicable on foot or by bicycle but are demanding<br />

because of their length, the climbs and the few points with water and refreshments.<br />

Good physical training is required. The road bed is either asphalt (55%),<br />

or with gravel and grass (45%).


3 rd ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA PISANA<br />

and the connection to the Francigena Nova in the lower Valdelsa<br />

Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />

Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

84<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Val d’Elsa countryside


BIKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 135.9<br />

Distance (alternative route): km 12.9<br />

Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Frediano (Florence) – Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

Waypoints: Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station,<br />

Renai Park, Signa, Lastra a Signa, Villa Caruso<br />

Distance: km 21.1 - Page 88<br />

Leg 2: Hermitage of Lecceto – Castelfiorentino<br />

Waypoints: Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito, Montelupo, Fibbiana, Empoli,<br />

Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />

Distance: km 37.3 - Page 94<br />

Leg 3: Castelfiorentino – Poggibonsi<br />

Waypoints: Villa Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano, Certaldo, Le Case di Sciano,<br />

Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano, San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano,<br />

Sant’Appiano<br />

Distance: km 36 - Page 106<br />

Leg 3, Alterative Route: Pian Grande – Podere San Luigi<br />

Waypoints: San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />

Distance: km 12.9 - Page 118<br />

Leg 4: Poggibonsi – Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

Waypoints: Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with Francigena, Strove,<br />

Monteriggioni, Borgo di Cerbaia, Castello della Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce<br />

Distance: km 41.5 - Page 122<br />

Some sections follow asphalt roads and bike paths, others are suitable for bicyclists<br />

of average technical capacity, along dirt roads with slightly rough or uneven<br />

road beds (cattle tracks, cart roads, etc.) and smooth, well-beaten trails. Almost<br />

all legs have steep climbs. Once in the Val d’Elsa, the route runs parallel to the Via<br />

Francigena of Sigeric that can be reached from Monterappoli, Castelfiorentino,<br />

Certaldo, and then in Acquaviva.<br />

Note: The tourist-style bike route is not particularly difficult, other than the need<br />

for adequate physical training related to the climbs and the length of the legs.<br />

Little-used asphalt roads account for 55% of the route and are suitable also for<br />

racing bikes; the remaining 45% have gravel and beaten earth road beds and are<br />

suitable for either mountain or city bikes.<br />

85<br />

The Arno at the Ponte della Vittoria, Florence


Hospitality Along The Way<br />

86<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

The existence of a full range of hospitality facilities along the<br />

way to Pisa is sufficient to demonstrate that in the Middle Ages<br />

the road was used by pilgrims, with a hospice in populo Sanctae<br />

Mariae de Verzaria iuxta stratam qua itur Florentia Pisas right<br />

at the route’s beginning in Florence near Porta San Frediano.<br />

Hospices were also found in “burgo Sancti Fridiani”, Legnaia (the<br />

hospice of the Cappone), Ponte a Greve, and Casellina (the Hospice<br />

Pontis de Grieve and the Hospice de Casellina). Continuing<br />

along, there were: the hospice of Sant’Antonio in Lastra a Signa,<br />

founded in 1411 by order of the Florentine consuls of the Silk<br />

Weavers’ Guild; a hospice set “prope fossatum Rimagii et prope<br />

stratam publicam” in Gangalandi, the hospice of San Francesco,<br />

and that of the parish church in Signa. Other institutions that offered<br />

hospitality to pilgrims were the Hospice Virginis Marie sive<br />

della Tagliata and a hospice run by the Dominicans in Montelupo,<br />

the Hospice Sancti Leonardi de Cerbaiola in Cerbaiola, and<br />

especially in Empoli where, in the 14 th century, the existence of<br />

three hospices is documented: the Domus pauperum hospitalis,<br />

the Hospice Ecclesiae Sancti Augustini and the Hospice Societas<br />

Annunciate plebis.<br />

In addition to these charitable organizations were commercial<br />

accommodation structures that concentrated in the main towns<br />

through which the road passed – in Empoli, Lastra a Signa and<br />

Gangalandi, above all. Yet it is clear from the 1334 Statuto of<br />

the Innkeepers’ Guild that private hospitatores were also found<br />

in Lignaria, Scandicci, Pons ad Grevem, Planus Septimi, Ugnanus,<br />

Malmantile, Monslupus, and Ponturmus.<br />

Along the Arno at the Indiano


The Via Quinctia<br />

The medieval route of the Via Pisana followed the general outlines<br />

of the Via Quinctia, the Roman road to Pisa. While the 1752<br />

discovery of a milestone near Montelupo, whose inscription –<br />

T.QUINTIUS. T.F. / FLAMINIUS / COS / PISAS X – allowed the road<br />

to be identified, nothing remains of the characteristic Roman road<br />

bed, erased by centuries of history, and especially by the Arno as<br />

it flooded and changed course.<br />

In turn, the modern road follows the directional axis of the medieval<br />

road to Pisa whose course, however, was probably characterized<br />

by passing nearer the foothills thus further away from the<br />

course of the Arno. Over time, there were corrections, adjustments,<br />

and modifications to its course. In fact, the 1322-1325<br />

Statuto del Capitano del Popolo talks of a “stratam novam et carrarecciam<br />

confectam a Ponte de Signe ad Pontem Pese de Monte<br />

Lupo” (Liber IV Capitulus X).<br />

However, the string of villages – many with the typically elongated<br />

urban structure of the “street-villages” – leaves no doubt about<br />

the general correspondence between the modern and the medieval<br />

course of a road that, as Repetti states, was still in the 19 th century<br />

“the most utilized of all the post roads, both for goods and<br />

transport that pass, over it and for its comfort, breadth and excellent<br />

maintenance, as well as the frequency of the villages, hamlets<br />

and towns that it crosses” (E.REPETTI, Dizionario geografico fisico<br />

storico della Toscana, Florence 1832-1843, vol. V, p.570).<br />

Certaldo Alto seen from the hills to the North<br />

87


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 1:<br />

PORTA SAN FREDIANO (Florence)<br />

LASTRA A SIGNA<br />

San Martino<br />

Le Piagge Railway Station<br />

San Donnino<br />

Piazzaletto dell’Indiano<br />

Signa<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 11<br />

Renai Park<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Ponte alla Vittoria<br />

Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />

LEG 1 to<br />

Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

see page 94<br />

88<br />

Mill near Renai


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Ponte alla Vittoria, Piazzaletto dell’Indiano, Le Piagge Railway Station,<br />

Renai Park, Signa<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 30<br />

Distance: km 15,5<br />

Travel time: 4h<br />

Entirely on the plain, this leg is a tourist-style route that goes along narrow<br />

asphalt roads and shared-use paths. It is well marked and does not present any<br />

orientation problems.<br />

The tourist-style route begins from Porta San Frediano, crosses Cascine Park<br />

in Florence, and continues on the shared-use path that goes from Florence to<br />

Renai Park in Signa. The last part passes through the towns of Signa and Lastra<br />

a Signa.<br />

Note: The route requires a minimum of physical training. Asphalt roads account<br />

for 55% of the itinerary, with the remaining 45% gravel and dirt roads, making<br />

it suitable for either a mountain or a city bike.<br />

Transport:<br />

Florence<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

To be seen:<br />

Renai Park in Signa<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in Signa<br />

15 th -century town walls in Lastra a Signa<br />

San Martino in Gangalandi<br />

89<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />

90<br />

Santa Maria in Mantignano and San Salvatore in Settimo<br />

The construction of a bike path on the left side of the river is under<br />

consideration. It would run from the Cascine over the Ponte<br />

dell’Indiano, and could be used to visit places of particular historical<br />

and artistic interest. One such example is in Mantignano with the<br />

ancient Church of Santa Maria, formerly a Benedictine convent of<br />

women. Documented as early as 1082, the church – currently a parish<br />

church – has retained the original Romanesque structure virtually<br />

intact. It has a single nave with an apse and protruding transept. But<br />

of special interest, near the ancient Via Pisana, is the Abbey of San<br />

Salvatore in Settimo, a very important church in the religious history<br />

of Florence. According to tradition, the abbey was founded in the<br />

early 11 th century by Lotario of the Cadolingi counts and, like all Benedictine<br />

foundations, offered hospitality. The hospitium peregrinorum<br />

sive pauperum dates back to 1096 and was built on land donated to<br />

the monastery by the Carolingian Count Ughiccione. In 1060 the abbey<br />

of Settimo passed to the Vallombrosan Order and was the scene<br />

of the miraculous event related to Peter Igneous, the monk who<br />

passed the “trial by fire” (hence his name), demonstrating the truth<br />

of the allegations of simony that Saint John Gualbert had addressed<br />

to the bishop of Florence, Pietro Mezzabarba. In 1236 the Cistercians<br />

replaced the Vallombrosans and remained until the Leopoldine<br />

suppression in 1782. We owe them the reorganization of the great<br />

abbey complex that, in addition to the church, includes a series of<br />

monastic buildings gathered around two cloisters and with the whole<br />

enclosed by 14 th - and 15 th -century fortifications. Today the church retains<br />

the layout that was the result of a 13 th -century reconstruction<br />

carried out by the Cistercians that incorporated the structures of the<br />

existing 11 th -century building, still visible in some of the walls and in<br />

the left apse. It consists of three aisles with wooden trusses, but the<br />

choir is the result of a 15 th -century renovation. Below the presbytery is<br />

the vaulted crypt with columns, another remnant of the 11 th -century<br />

building. We should also note that the sepulcher of the countesses<br />

Gasdia and Cilla dates back to the original building; the sepulcher is a<br />

chest inlaid with white and serpentine marble, with a fronton and the<br />

inscription anno 1096. Also of great importance are the large 15 th -<br />

century cloister and the large, three-aisled chapter room with cross<br />

vaulted ceilings rising from columns. The entire complex is currently<br />

undergoing significant renovations and improvements.<br />

The Fortifications of the Abbey of Settimo


While our itinerary essentially follows that of the medieval Via<br />

Pisana, we branch off on to paths to avoid the intense vehicle<br />

traffic that characterizes the modern Tosco-Romagnola state<br />

road that retraces the ancient Via Pisana.<br />

A bike path goes along Lungarno Santa Rosa near Porta San<br />

Frediano that continues as far as Piazza Taddeo Gaddi in front<br />

of the Ponte alla Vittoria. We cross the bridge and enter Cascine<br />

Park, which runs along the right bank of the Arno, thus avoiding<br />

the western outskirts of the city while remaining in a very beautiful<br />

natural setting.<br />

We go through Cascine Park along Viale Lincoln and then on<br />

Viale Washington until we reach the Piazzaletto dell’Indiano and<br />

take Via di San Biagio a Petroio. A bike path starts here that runs<br />

on the right side of the river until reaching Renai Park in Signa.<br />

This path is recommended, although the ancient route of the Via<br />

Pisana ran along the left side of the Arno where obviously all of<br />

the historical and territorial evidence linked to the road is found.<br />

Detail of the porch, Hospice of S.Antonio, Lastra a Signa<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1<br />

91<br />

Porta San Frediano (Florence)<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Cascine Park<br />

11 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

Renai Park<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Signa<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

Church of San Martino<br />

a Gangalandi<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

www.vieromee.it


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 1<br />

92<br />

As we have said, the bike path continues along the right bank<br />

of the Arno and goes directly to Signa. Set at the top of a hill<br />

whose slope overlooks the river, the oldest part of Signa has<br />

maintained the layout of the medieval castle as well as some<br />

remnants of the defensive walls that encircled it, including the<br />

turreted Porta di San Miniato and the nearby Church of Santa<br />

Maria al Castello. In the lower part of the town – the ancient<br />

village of the castle – is the late-Romanesque Parish Church of<br />

San Giovanni Battista, with three wide aisles divided by circular<br />

pillars made of stone ashlars. Not far away is the Oratory<br />

of San Lorenzo, Signa’s early parish church; it is a single-nave<br />

church, attributable to the 12 th century and contains a coeval<br />

pulpit in marble slabs inlaid with geometric designs.<br />

We cross the Arno at Signa; the small village of Ponte a Signa is<br />

just beyond the bridge on the State Road. Its name derives from<br />

the bridge over the Arno that has been destroyed several times<br />

over the centuries and whose earliest historical reference dates<br />

back to 1217. A hospice, documented in 1258, stood near the<br />

bridge that was guarded by a medieval fortification called “the<br />

Tower”, which is still standing and overlooks the road.<br />

At Ponte a Signa, we continue for a short stretch on the state<br />

road, but in the opposite direction so as to reach San Martino<br />

a Gangalandi and Lastra a Signa.<br />

Just beyond Gangalandi lies Lastra a Signa, whose most ancient<br />

center has preserved the early 15 th -century fortifications<br />

that enclosed the “terra”, or city, including the main gateway,<br />

the so-called “Portone di Baccio”, topped by a high tower. Of<br />

great interest, inside the walls is the Hospice of Sant’Antonio,<br />

a large 15 th -century building having, at its base, a loggia with<br />

seven arches which are partially walled up and rise from pietra<br />

serena octagonal columns with foliage capitals. Even if individual<br />

elements are gothicizing, the proportions and spaces show an<br />

already Renaissance vision that makes us think it is an early work<br />

by Brunelleschi, whose activity for the town wall restoration<br />

work in Lastra a Signa is documented. The three large rooms<br />

with cross vaulted ceilings that look on to the loggia are where<br />

travelers and pilgrims were housed. A coat-of-arms for the Silk<br />

Weavers’ Guild appears on the lintel of a 15 th -century fireplace<br />

in one of the large rooms on the first floor, reminding us of the<br />

guild’s role in building the hospice.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

(Florence)<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Cascine Park<br />

11 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

Renai Park<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Signa<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

Church of San Martino<br />

a Gangalandi<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Lastra a Signa


A LAND OF SAINTS<br />

Blessed Giovanna of Signa<br />

The rural church of Signa was also called the “parish church of the<br />

Blessed Soul” and, in the Middle Ages, it attracted a considerable flow<br />

of pilgrims, mostly from the surrounding area. In fact, in a 15 th -century<br />

wooden chest painted by Pietro da Gambassi, the church housed the<br />

body of the Blessed Giovanna of Signa, a pious woman from the 14 th<br />

century. Her intense ascetic virtues and the miracles wrought during her<br />

life were the basis of the particular devotion for this blessed woman immediately<br />

following her death. Already in the first half of the 15 th century,<br />

the walls of the church’s apse were frescoed with Episodes from<br />

the Life of the Blessed Giovanna by a painter from Neri di Bicci’s circle,<br />

the so-called “Master of Signa”. The growth in the number of pilgrims,<br />

attracted by the miraculous virtues attributed to the blessed woman,<br />

must also have led to the creation of the hospice of Santi Gualberto<br />

and Onofrio adjoining the church and documented as early as 1376.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Church of San Martino a Gangalandi<br />

Recorded in the early 12 th century as the suffragan of the Signa parish<br />

church, the church of Gangalandi – not by chance named after Saint<br />

Martin, the patron saint of travelers – obtained the privilege of having<br />

a baptismal font in 1278, a consequence of the collapse of the bridge<br />

over the Arno that had made communication difficult with the mother<br />

church across the river. For this reason, the building was enlarged, its<br />

construction dating to the years between the 13 th and 14 th centuries,<br />

with the exception of the elegant décor in the apse with pietra serena<br />

pilasters and cornices, which is traditionally attributed to Leon Battista<br />

Alberti. On the façade is a large colonnade, inside of which was a late<br />

medieval fresco representing St. Christopher; a clear reference to the<br />

assistance given to pilgrims, that was later detached and placed inside<br />

the church. Moreover, a hospice existed in Gangalandi prope stratam<br />

publicam and, not unexpectedly, the art works kept in the church refer<br />

to acts of charity towards travelers. A fragment of a 14 th -century<br />

fresco shows Saint Martin on horseback whereas he is depicted giving<br />

his cloak to a poor man in the frescoes by Bicci di Lorenzo that<br />

decorate the walls of the internal tempietto that serves as a baptistery.<br />

93<br />

Detail of the frescoes in the Church of San Martino a Gangalandi


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 2:<br />

LASTRA A SIGNA<br />

EMPOLI<br />

Continuing of LEG 1<br />

see page 88<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Villa Caruso Bellosguardo<br />

Torre della Badia<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 2<br />

La Falterona<br />

Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

Malmantile<br />

LEG 2 to<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

see page 100<br />

Turbone<br />

FIbbiana<br />

Montelupo<br />

Gavignano<br />

Turbone<br />

Empoli<br />

Church of Sant’Ippolito<br />

94<br />

The Town Walls of Lastra a Signa


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Villa Caruso, Monastery of Lecceto, Malmantile, Church of Sant’Ippolito,<br />

Montelupo, Fibbiana<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 170<br />

Distance: km 21.9<br />

Travel time: 5h55’<br />

This tourist-style leg goes primarily along dirt roads, in the stretch between<br />

Lastra a Signa and S. Ippolito, whereas the final part is exclusively along asphalt<br />

roads. The route is well-marked and does not offer any problems of orientation.<br />

The initial climb towards the Monastery of Lecceto and the overall distance of<br />

this section require suitable physical training.<br />

Note: There is very little shade along this leg except for the wooded stretch<br />

between Lastra a Signa and Malmantile. Water and refreshments can be found<br />

in the towns and villages along the way. Particular attention should be paid by<br />

those on foot along the provincial and regional roadways between Sant’Ippolito<br />

and Montelupo and between Cortenuova and the center of Empoli.<br />

Transport:<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Lecceto/Malmantile<br />

Empoli<br />

To be seen:<br />

Villa Caruso Bellosguardo<br />

Hermitage of Lecceto<br />

Castle of Malmantile<br />

Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />

House of Pontormo – at Pontormo, near Empoli<br />

95<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Montelupo, The Land of Ceramics<br />

Located near the confluence of the Pesa into the River Arno, Montelupo<br />

was one of the main centers encountered on the course of<br />

the Via Pisana: not by chance were there two hospices as well as<br />

numerous accommodation facilities (inns and hostels). It is famous<br />

still today for the artistic pottery and the ceramics industry that<br />

have existed here since the Middle Ages, and, as a result, is now<br />

the seat of an important museum of ceramics. Its parish church is<br />

dedicated to St. John the Evangelist and was founded in 1326 on<br />

the site of a hospice dedicated to St. Nicholas. Currently, however,<br />

the church shows the results of a radical 18 th -century renovation.<br />

The town of Montelupo is dominated by the ruins of the Florentine<br />

castle built in the 13 th century to oppose the Pistoiese one of<br />

Capraia facing it from across the Arno. One of the fort’s towers<br />

was used as the bell-tower of the castle church of San Lorenzo,<br />

a building from the 13 th -14 th centuries, renovated during the Renaissance.<br />

Church of San Lorenzo a Montelupo<br />

96


To continue towards Montelupo after Lastra a Signa, we suggest<br />

using provincial road No. 72 as an alternative to the modern<br />

Via Pisana; it starts near Ponte a Signa and winds through the<br />

hills that divide the lower Valdarno from the Val di Pesa. On this<br />

route, we find the Church of Santa Maria delle Selve, a Carmelite<br />

monastery founded on a villa given to the order by the Del<br />

Pace family in 1343, then the Dominican Convent of Lecceto,<br />

dedicated to Saints Philip and James, established in 1473 with<br />

the support of Filippo Strozzi.<br />

A little further on is the castle of Malmantile, which has preserved<br />

remarkably intact the entire boundary wall built at the<br />

beginning of the 15 th century. A rectangular plan with towers at<br />

the corners and in the middle of the long sides, the walls open<br />

at the two gates in the two shorter sides, at the ends of the road<br />

that divides the town. Along the perimeter of the walls are embrasures,<br />

above which some of the brackets still remain, namely<br />

the corbels in pietra serena that supported the parapet walks.<br />

Reconstruction of the walls of Malmantile<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2<br />

97<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

2 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Church of Santa Maria delle Selve<br />

4.6 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Castle of Malmantile<br />

Church of San Pietro in Selve<br />

8.4 km<br />

Time: 2h10’<br />

Montelupo<br />

0.7 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />

Church of San Michele Arcangelo<br />

a Pontorme<br />

5 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Empoli<br />

1.2 km<br />

Time: 20’<br />

www.vieromee.it


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 2<br />

Just beyond Malmantile, we come to the Church of San Pietro<br />

in Selve, on whose façade are preserved the 14 th -century frescoes<br />

depicting some saints, including a Saint Christopher (another<br />

reference to the heavenly protection of travelers!).<br />

Returning to Malmantile, we retrace our steps for 200 meters<br />

and then turn right onto a dirt road that crosses Scopicci and<br />

Villa Gello, sloping down to the valley floor of the Pesa River. We<br />

come to the Parish Church of Sant’Ippolito and Cassiano,<br />

the ancient matrix church of Montelupo, a beautiful Romanesque<br />

building with a single nave and a protruding transept that<br />

ends in a semi-circular apse.<br />

Along a dirt road we come to the pedestrian bridge over the<br />

Turbone River, a tributary of the Pesa, and then use an internal<br />

secondary road to the left of the provincial road that connects<br />

Montelupo to Cerbaia.<br />

Our journey continues towards the Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana,<br />

built by Ferdinand I and designed by Bernardo Buontalenti.<br />

Then, following along the left bank of the Arno, we reach<br />

the small village of Torre, whose name derives from the late<br />

medieval tower that overlooks the river. Then we head in the<br />

direction of Empoli on an internal track that runs parallel to the<br />

Tosco-Romagnola state road and passes through a series of small<br />

villages (Fibbiana, Tinaia, Cortenuova, and Pontorme), each<br />

with a parish church, with the one in Pontorme being especially<br />

significant. Dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel, the Romanesque<br />

façade preserves traces of the original brickwork; a<br />

hospice dedicated to Saint Mary was attached to the church and<br />

documented from 1334.<br />

98<br />

We reach Empoli, the main stop on the Via Pisana in the Florentine<br />

countryside, as seen by the three hospices that were located<br />

there as well as the other accommodation structures and businesses<br />

there.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

2 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Church of Santa Maria delle Selve<br />

4.6 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Castle of Malmantile<br />

Church of San Pietro in Selve<br />

8.4 km<br />

Time: 2h10’<br />

Montelupo<br />

0.7 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Medicean Villa of Ambrogiana<br />

Church of San Michele Arcangelo<br />

a Pontorme<br />

5 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Empoli<br />

1.2 km<br />

Time: 20’


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Churches of Empoli<br />

Before entering the historic center, we find the 17 th -century<br />

Church of the Madonna del Pozzo, an unusual octagonal tabernacle<br />

preceded by a small nave and surrounded outside by a loggia.<br />

The building was erected on the spot where formerly there<br />

had stood a tabernacle; miraculously unscathed in a fire, it was<br />

for this reason that it also became a pilgrimage destination, albeit<br />

in a strictly local sense. It was located outside the 15 th -century<br />

walls that enclosed the medieval village, and remains of the walls<br />

are still visible in several parts of the city. Inside the walls were the<br />

Gothic Church of Santo Stefano, part of a convent of Augustinian<br />

friars, and the ancient Parish Church of Sant’Andrea. Romanesque<br />

features of the latter remain only on the lower part of the<br />

façade. (The upper part was rebuilt in the 18 th -century when the<br />

church was radically altered to create a single large nave). The five<br />

harmonious arches in green and white marble on the surviving<br />

section of the façade clearly recall the façade of San Miniato al<br />

Monte in Florence and are the only example in all the countryside<br />

of the decorative practice of covering buildings with marble inlays,<br />

typical of the Florentine Romanesque style.<br />

The Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea in Empoli<br />

99


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 3:<br />

EMPOLI<br />

CASTELFIORENTINO<br />

Empoli<br />

Continuing of LEG 2<br />

see page 94<br />

Cerbaiola<br />

Casino<br />

di Monterbero<br />

Il Torrino<br />

Santa Domitilla<br />

Pozzale<br />

Corniola<br />

Montemagnoli<br />

Monterappoli<br />

Sant’Andrea<br />

Bellosguardo<br />

Camposano<br />

Belvedere<br />

Castelnuovo D’Elsa<br />

Cafaggio<br />

Cambiano<br />

100<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Castelfiorentino on an 18 th -century cadastral map


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Cerbaiola, Corniola, Il Torrino, Monterappoli, Bellosguardo, Belvedere<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 180<br />

Distance: km 21<br />

Travel time: 5h40’<br />

This leg is a tourist-style hike: half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There<br />

can be problems of orientation on some of the rural stretches that lack references<br />

to place-names. The hilly stretch is characterized by panoramic views on<br />

the Val d’Elsa.<br />

Note: The route is half on dirt roads and half on asphalt ones. There are few<br />

points where water or refreshments are available. You must be in good physical<br />

condition for the walk. Monterappoli is the first point that connects with the Via<br />

Francigena that, passing through Pogni and Mulin Novo, connects us to “Sigeric’s<br />

route” in Baccanella. It is also possible to reach the Via Francigena from Castelfiorentino<br />

through a junction that heads south from Viale dei Profeti. Past the<br />

bridge over the Scolmatore canal, we turn right and stay on Viale dei Profeti. Once<br />

past Palazzina, we come again to the Via Francigena.<br />

Transport:<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

To be seen:<br />

Church of San Leonardo in Cerbaiola<br />

Church of Santi Simone and Giuda a Corniola<br />

Panorama of the Val d’Elsa from Il Torrino<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Monterappoli<br />

Panorama from Bellosguardo<br />

Panorama from Belvedere<br />

Sanctuary of Santa Verdiana and the Museum of Sacred Art – Castelfiorentino<br />

101<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />

in Monterappoli<br />

The original characteristics of this brick building have been preserved<br />

almost intact. It has a large single nave that ends in a<br />

semicircular apse and is enriched by external wall decorations (intertwined<br />

arches, bull’s eye windows, small embedded windows,<br />

the central part of the façade jutting out) that highlight the involvement<br />

of workers from the Po River valley as confirmed by the<br />

inscription on the portal lintel that refers to its craftsman, MAG-<br />

ISTER BONSERI EX GENTE LOMBARDA, as well as the year of its<br />

construction (1165). A series of architectural ceramics – only a few<br />

remain – set at the top of the façade refer to an ornamental practice<br />

that undoubtedly arrived by way of Pisa. The door lintel also<br />

displays a carved benedictory Dextera Domini, or Hand of God, a<br />

clear sign of the charitable function that the parish church must<br />

have had for pilgrims.<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista in Monterappoli<br />

102


Leaving the historical center of Empoli, we move into the residential<br />

district of Quartiere Carrara in the direction of the Empoli<br />

suburb of Pratovecchio. We come to the Church of San Leonardo<br />

di Cerbaiola, a former pilgrims’ hospice founded by the<br />

Guidi counts in the 12 th century, and that belonged to the Order<br />

of Malta from the 16 th century until the Napoleonic suppression.<br />

A little farther on, we reach the Church of Santi Simone e<br />

Giuda a Corniola, which was the site of a Carmelite convent,<br />

whose beautiful 17 th -century cloister remains.<br />

In Empoli, we leave the Via Pisana behind to head south to join<br />

the most recent of the various routes constituting the Via Francigena<br />

that ran along the right bank of the Elsa River.<br />

After Corniola, we come to the road that is considered to have<br />

supplanted this important medieval artery and which follows<br />

along the ridge of low hills – that serve as the watershed between<br />

the Valdelsa and the Val d’Orme – a more internal route<br />

than that of the state road 429 in the valley below, which goes<br />

back up the course of the Elsa. Along the way, we come to the<br />

village of Monterappoli, the ancient castle of the Guidi counts,<br />

whose parish church has traces of the original Romanesque<br />

building in brick. Not far from it is the parish church dedicated<br />

to Saint John the Evangelist.<br />

The benedictory Dextera Domini, parish church of San Giovanni Battista in Monterappoli<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3<br />

103<br />

Empoli<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Church of Santi Simone<br />

e Giuda a Corniola<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Monterappoli<br />

0.7 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />

11.1 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

www.vieromee.it


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 3<br />

Monterappoli represents the first opportunity to link up with the<br />

oldest part of the Via Francigena that runs through the hills on<br />

the left bank of the Elsa River. In fact, we go down into the valley<br />

where the river runs parallel to state road 429, and cross the<br />

Elsa at Molin Novo. We then go back up towards the ridge of<br />

hills as far as Baccanella, once along the ancient route whose<br />

place-name makes clear its relation to the road as it derived from<br />

there having once been a stopping place.<br />

Continuing on the right hand of the Elsa, we descend into the<br />

small Ormicello River valley and then climb up to Monteravoli: a<br />

centuries-old holm-oak along the road is a clear and obvious point<br />

of reference. Across the beautiful Val d’Elsa countryside – along<br />

the way we come across names like Bellosguardo and Belvedere<br />

– we reach Castelfiorentino, the stopping point on the<br />

“new” Via Francigena, unfailingly recalled in the pilgrims’ memoirs,<br />

starting from the 12 th century.<br />

Church of Santa Verdiana in Castelfiorentino<br />

104<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Empoli<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Church of San Leonardo di Cerbaiola<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Church of Santi Simone<br />

e Giuda a Corniola<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Monterappoli<br />

0.7 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Evangelista<br />

11.1 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

Castelfiorentino


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Castelfiorentino: An Important Crossroads<br />

Built at the intersection of the Via Francigena and the Via Volterrana<br />

at the point where the latter crossed the Elsa River, Castelfiorentino<br />

was a crossroads of primary importance in the Middle<br />

Ages: 14 th -century sources speak of the existence of two hospices<br />

in the castle (the Hospitale Sancte Crucis and the Hospitale Spiritus<br />

Sancti), besides the inns, naturally. In the highest area of the<br />

oldest part of the town stretching downward on the southern<br />

slope of a hill towards the Elsa, a part of the brick walls that surrounded<br />

the town has been preserved, together with two churches:<br />

the Parish Church of Sant’Ippolito and the Collegiate Church<br />

of San Lorenzo. Both buildings are among the most significant<br />

examples of the large group of Romanesque, brick buildings with<br />

a single nave (as we have previously seen in Monterappoli). They<br />

were built by workers from Lombardy who were active in lower<br />

Valdelsa in the second half of the 12 th century. Two other important<br />

religious buildings are found outside the ancient walls, on<br />

the “Plain of Elsa”: the Gothic church of San Francesco, previously<br />

annexed to the homonymous monastery, and the Sanctuary<br />

of Santa Verdiana, a simple and pleasing 18 th -century Baroque<br />

building dedicated to the saint of Castelfiorentino whose body is<br />

preserved there.<br />

LAND OF SAINTS<br />

The Hermitage of Santa Verdiana<br />

The Sanctuary was a pilgrimage destination especially – but not<br />

exclusively – for the populace of the Val d’Elsa because of their<br />

special devotion to the saint, represented in many of the paintings<br />

collected in the Museum of Sacred Art annexed to the church.<br />

From Castelfiorentino, Verdiana degli Attavanti (1178-1242) lived<br />

the last thirty-four years of her life in the company of two snakes,<br />

in a cell of the hermitage in front of the Oratory of Sant’Antonio<br />

Abate, just outside the city’s walls. After her death, Verdiana was<br />

buried under the altar of the hermitage where she had lived for<br />

so long and over which a church was later erected in her honor.<br />

It is not known with certainty when her sanctification was proclaimed,<br />

however it must have happened in the second half of<br />

the 13 th century, if mention of an “Ecclesia Sanctae Verdianae de<br />

Castro florentino” is already made in the early 14 th century and if,<br />

in the last novella of the fifth day of the Decameron, Boccaccio<br />

recalls her as a saint with this expression: “... an old woman who<br />

showed like Saint Verdiana, that giveth the serpents to eat”.<br />

We also know that during her life, with “quibusdam dominabus”<br />

of Castelfiorentino, Saint Verdiana went on a pilgrimage to Santiago<br />

de Compostela (O. POGNI, Vita di Santa Verdiana d’incognito<br />

autore, Empoli 1936).<br />

105


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 4:<br />

CASTELFIORENTINO<br />

CERTALDO<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 3<br />

Passignano<br />

Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />

Voltignano<br />

Poggio al Cielo<br />

Bagnolo<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Oliveto Castle<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

LOCAL<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Pian Grande<br />

Belvedere<br />

Ponzano<br />

San Giorsole<br />

Fraille<br />

Quercitella<br />

106<br />

Certaldo<br />

LEG 3 to<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

see page 112<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Val d’Elsa countryside


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Villa di Cabbiavoli, Pian Grande, Ponzano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 160<br />

Distance: km 15.1<br />

Travel time: 4h15’<br />

A tourist-style hike on dirt and asphalt roads.<br />

There may be orientation problems in some of the rural stretches where placename<br />

references are missing. The route is characterized by stupendous views of<br />

the Val d’Elsa.<br />

Note: When the main route enters the road to Lucardo, after 500 m. we find<br />

a detour on the right to go on the Local Itinerary, for Castle of Oliveto (Via di<br />

Monte Oliveto). In addition, after about 2 km from this detour, we come to the<br />

intersection in Piangrande to the Alternative Route that leads to San Martino<br />

a Maiano and San Lazzaro, with a stop in Casale. Otherwise, we continue on to<br />

Certaldo. The Via Francigena can be reached from Certaldo by another connecting<br />

road. There are few points with water and refreshments.<br />

Transport:<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

To be seen:<br />

Castle of Oliveto<br />

House of Boccaccio - Certaldo<br />

Museum of Sacred Art - Certaldo<br />

Museum of the Palazzo Pretorio - Certaldo<br />

Canonica Park - Certaldo<br />

107<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castealfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Certaldo<br />

Certaldo rose as a castle of the Alberti counts in order to control<br />

passage along the Via Francigena. It witnessed a rapid development<br />

between the 12 th and 13 th centuries, thanks to this road that<br />

ran at the foot of the hill on which the village rose. Its original<br />

urban plan as well as its architectural and environmental characteristics<br />

has been preserved almost intact. Following the contours of<br />

the hill, the town walls from the 13 th and 14 th centuries still encircle<br />

the medieval town, which is divided longitudinally by a broad street<br />

that leads towards the 15 th -century Palazzo del Vicario, located on<br />

the highest point where the Alberti Castle once stood. A particularly<br />

distinctive feature of Certaldo is the use of the locally made<br />

red brick in all the castle buildings, including the two churches<br />

found here: the rectory of Santi Michele e Jacopo and the Church<br />

of San Tommaso. Both have a single-nave, Romanesque plan; a<br />

surviving ceramic basin with Arabic epigraphic characters on the<br />

cusp of the façade of San Tommaso demonstrates the relationship<br />

between Certaldo and Pisa, one apparently favored by the road<br />

network. The presence in the castle of a rectory is also significant:<br />

the small communities of priests who lived together (i.e. the canons)<br />

were devoted to providing hospitality, confirmed in Certaldo,<br />

moreover, at the beginning of the 14 th century by the existence of<br />

two hospices, both dedicated to the Madonna. It must also be remembered<br />

that the rectory kept the remains of the Blessed Giulia<br />

Della Rena, whose flow of local pilgrims added to that of the pious<br />

travelers going along the Via Francigena to Rome.<br />

Reconstruction of the Praetorian Palace in Certaldo<br />

108


After Castelfiorentino, our itinerary continues following the<br />

“new” Via Francigena but on a longer route that unwinds on<br />

the left side of state road 429. Winding through a landscape of<br />

low, intensely cultivated hills dotted with farmhouses, we find<br />

the turreted, Renaissance Villa of Cabbiavoli, then, with a<br />

short detour, the 15 th -century castle of Oliveto. The road then<br />

descends to the bottom of the Elsa Valley, while the medieval<br />

profile of Certaldo, the birthplace of Giovanni Boccaccio, stands<br />

out in the distance.<br />

Glimpse of Certaldo<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 4<br />

109<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

3.6 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />

3.2 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Turreted Manor House of Oliveto<br />

8.3 km<br />

Time: 2h15’<br />

Certaldo<br />

www.vieromee.it


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 4, LOCAL ITINERARY:<br />

OLIVETO CASTLE<br />

Passignano<br />

Villa of Cabbiavoli<br />

Voltignano<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Poggio al Cielo<br />

Bagnolo<br />

Oliveto Castle<br />

Via Pian Grande<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

LOCAL<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Petrazzi<br />

Belvedere<br />

MAIN<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Ponzano<br />

San Giorsole<br />

Fraille<br />

Quercitella<br />

Certaldo<br />

110<br />

WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 120<br />

Distance: km 4.8<br />

Travel time: 1h35’<br />

The local itinerary begins at the crossroads of Via Lucardese and Via Pian Grande<br />

and, for the most part, goes along the dirt roads that lead to Oliveto Castle<br />

and, completing a circle in the park of the farm, takes us back to our starting<br />

point. It is a hilly route characterized by vantage points over the Val d’Elsa along<br />

easily walkable dirt roads.


Oliveto Castle<br />

111


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 5:<br />

CERTALDO<br />

POGGIBONSI<br />

Continuing of LEG 3<br />

see page 106<br />

Santa Maria a Collina<br />

Montignano<br />

Podere San Luigi<br />

ALTERNATIVE<br />

ROUTE<br />

Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />

Certaldo<br />

Le Case di Sciano<br />

Tre Colli<br />

San Michele a Semifonte<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />

Petrognano<br />

Pastine<br />

Ferrale<br />

Fonterofoli<br />

Sant’Appiano<br />

Le Grillaie<br />

Ellerone<br />

Gavignano<br />

112<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

The fertile Val d’Elsa countryside in spring


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Le Case di Sciano, Podere San Luigi, Santa Maria a Bagnano,<br />

San Michele a Semifonte, Petrognano, Sant’Appiano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 310<br />

Distance: km 20.9<br />

Travel time: 5h<br />

A tourist-style leg mainly on asphalt roads. There are no problems of orientation<br />

or with markings for the itinerary. It is a hilly walk with many panoramic points,<br />

from which several places of interest can be visited.<br />

Those who take the alternative route for Casale, return to the main itinerary at<br />

Podere San Luigi. This leg requires good physical training for the walk.<br />

Transport:<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

To be seen:<br />

Semifonte<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />

Fortress of Poggio Imperiale - Poggibonsi<br />

Sanctuary of Romituzzo - Poggibonsi<br />

113<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5<br />

114<br />

As we leave Certaldo to reach the next stopping point on the Via<br />

Francigena Nova (Poggibonsi) and to avoid the heavily trafficked<br />

state road 429, we suggest a route that goes in the same direction<br />

and allows us to visit a number of Val d’Elsa locations rich<br />

with history and art, despite its greater distance.<br />

From Sciano, we thus take an ancient route, the so-called Via<br />

di San Donnino that crosses the hills on the right side of the<br />

mid-Val d’Elsa. Along the way, we find first of all the Church of<br />

Santa Maria in Bagnano, in which there was a 13 th -century<br />

Madonna and Child by the so-called “Master of Bagnano”, now<br />

in the Certaldo Museum of Sacred Art. The road we are traveling<br />

however was also used by pilgrims in medieval times as an<br />

alternative to the route along the valley floor and it is not by<br />

chance that the existence of a hospice in Bagnano (Santa Maria<br />

de Albagnano) was documented in 1322. Continuing along,<br />

we reach the place where the Alberti castle of Semifonte once<br />

stood, destroyed in 1202 by the Florentines. Nothing remains of<br />

it, however an octagonal chapel was erected on its site in 1597,<br />

San Michele a Semifonte – also called the “Cupola of San Donnino”<br />

– based on a design by Santi di Tito, which exactly reproduces<br />

Brunelleschi’s dome of Santa Maria del Fiore in a 1:8 ratio.<br />

Near the chapel, in the village of Petrognano, a number of<br />

13 th -century tower-houses have been preserved, later converted<br />

into farmhouses, as well the farm-villa of the same name that<br />

also incorporates a pre-existing turreted manor house. Also in<br />

Petrognano there was a hospitality structure for pilgrims (the<br />

spedale pauperum), which is documented as early as 1286.<br />

Proceeding along, we reach the ancient Parish Church of<br />

Sant’Appiano, where again there was a hospice, named for<br />

Saint Nicholas, which is also recorded as early as the late 13 th<br />

century.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Certaldo<br />

8.7 km<br />

Time: 1h25’<br />

Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />

1.7 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte<br />

1.3 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Petrognano<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 1h35’<br />

Poggibonsi


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />

The three-aisle church has preserved some of the original Lombardizing<br />

proto-Romanesque structures, later integrated during<br />

the Romanesque period. In front of the façade of the church are<br />

four cruciform pillars: these are the remains of a 12 th -century octagonal<br />

building topped by a small conical dome, clearly built in<br />

imitation of the Holy Sepulcher. The capitals carved with motifs<br />

that evoke the Eastern Judeo-Christian symbolism and, above all,<br />

its iconography and the central plan served to make the small<br />

building a sort of reproduction of the Jerusalem model.<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />

115


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Poggibonsi was called Marturi before the mid-12 th century construction<br />

of the castle of Podium Bonitii (that would give its name<br />

to the town). It was an important road junction in the Middle<br />

Ages as it was the point where the Via Francigena converged with<br />

a series of routes leading to the main cities in Tuscany. Because of<br />

its importance for the control of the road network, the regional<br />

potentates of the time contested it until 1270 when Florence took<br />

it over permanently, destroying the castle (which stood where the<br />

Medici fortress of Poggio Imperiale is found today) and relocating<br />

the town to the plain. Recent archaeological excavations have unearthed<br />

some traces of Podium Bonitii, adding to the sole surviving<br />

monument: the so-called Fountain of the Fairies, a large public<br />

fountain set on six ogival double-arches. After the castle’s destruction<br />

in 1270, the Franciscan, Gothic Basilica of San Lucchese was<br />

built that, together with its convent, is located on the high ground<br />

facing the castle, whereas nothing remains of the ancient abbey<br />

of San Michele a Marturi, a royal monastery probably founded by<br />

the Lombards and whose vestiges were re-used to make the 19 th<br />

century neo-Gothic castle of Badia.<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

116<br />

The main stopping point of the Via Francigena<br />

in the Val d’Elsa<br />

Several accounts confirm the importance of Marturi-Podium<br />

Bonitii as a stopping point along the Via Francigena. We need<br />

only recall the many inns mentioned in 14 th -century sources and<br />

the at least four tavernari that appear to have been there in 1221.<br />

Also the presence all around Poggibonsi along the streets that<br />

converged there of seven canonical churches is important (we<br />

have already mentioned how hospitality was among the canons’<br />

tasks). In some of the rectories, moreover, pilgrimage references<br />

and symbols are evident: Jerusalem-style crosses (in Cedda and<br />

Casaglia), the figures of the Magi, the first pilgrims in the story of<br />

salvation (Talciona), and a roadside cross (Cedda).<br />

In the 14 th century, there were four hospices in Poggibonsi, and<br />

two mansions of the Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem,<br />

both of which were just outside the village. The one called Santa<br />

Croce was at Torri, above Poggibonsi (a tall, 13 th -century brick<br />

tower still indicates the site), and the other, on the Via Francigena<br />

towards Siena, was the mansion of San Giovanni Battista al Ponte,<br />

so named because it was located near the crossing of the Staggia<br />

River. The latter has retained the original layout of the premises<br />

that are distributed around an inner courtyard, on which also the<br />

Romanesque church with an apsidal nave opens.


Shortly after, we arrive at Linari Castle, whose lords were the Cadolingi<br />

counts of Fucecchio. It rises on a tuffaceous hillock overlooking<br />

the Elsa plain and preserves some remains of the fortifications<br />

that once stood there. At the foot of the castle stands the neo-<br />

Gothic Parish Church of Santo Stefano, while in the higher part<br />

of the village is the Church of Santa Maria, near which was a<br />

hospice, also named for the Virgin Mary and first recorded in the<br />

early 14 th century.<br />

The next stretch of our itinerary leads us to Poggibonsi, where we<br />

reconnect with state road 429, which leads directly to the historical<br />

center of the town, the main stopping place of the Via Francigena<br />

in the Val d’Elsa, both of the “new” route on the floor of the valley<br />

and the original one – even older than the one on the hill – that<br />

went along halfway up hill on the left of the Elsa.<br />

The Fountain of the Fairies in Poggibonsi<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 5<br />

117<br />

Certaldo<br />

8.7 km<br />

Time: 1h25’<br />

Church of Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />

1.7 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Church of Sam Michele a Semifonte<br />

1.3 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Petrognano<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Appiano<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 1h35’<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

www.vieromee.it


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE:<br />

PIAN GRANDE<br />

PODERE SAN LUIGI<br />

Inizio VARIANTE “Tappa 4 / 5”<br />

Villa di Cabbiavoli<br />

Voltignano<br />

Poggio al Cielo<br />

Bagnolo<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Castello di Oliveto<br />

San Martino a Maiano<br />

Pian Grande<br />

Belvedere<br />

Ponzano<br />

Fraille<br />

ITINERARIO<br />

PRINCIPALE<br />

Certaldo<br />

Casale<br />

San Giorsole<br />

Podere San Luigi<br />

Le Case di Sciano<br />

VARIANTE<br />

San Lazzaro<br />

Santa Maria a Bagnano<br />

Tre Colli<br />

Petrognano<br />

San Michele a Semifonte<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />

Pastine<br />

Ferrale<br />

Sant’Appiano<br />

Le Grillaie<br />

Ellerone<br />

Gavignano<br />

118<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Traditional agricultural landscape in Valdelsa


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

San Martino a Maiano, Casale, San Lazzaro<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T-E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 190<br />

Distance: km 12,9<br />

Travel time: 3h50’<br />

A tourist-hiking tour on dirt and asphalt roads. The itinerary markings may be<br />

unclear because of the lack of place-names and directional signage.<br />

2 km after the turnoff for Oliveto Castle, near Pian Grande, we can leave the<br />

main itinerary for an alternative one that leads us to the unspoiled landscape<br />

of the Borro di Casale Valley, characterized by olive-groves, cultivated fields,<br />

and woods. This is a small, mostly dirt road along the ridge that leads us to San<br />

Martino a Maiano. We turn right 2.6 km after San Martino a Maiano towards<br />

Casale to see the pinnacles of eroded clay that characterize the “gullies of Casale”.<br />

Here we can stop for a break. From Casale, we go back north for about<br />

800 m and take the road to the right for San Gaudenzio a Ruballa. We continue<br />

as far as Betto, where we get on an asphalt road heading south. After 500<br />

meters, we turn left and go down towards San Lazzaro. After 1.2 km, we reach<br />

an asphalt road and turn left, continuing for about 300 m. We then take the<br />

dirt road on the right. Always keeping to the left, after a few hundred meters<br />

we return to the main itinerary at Podere San Luigi.<br />

Transport:<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Casale<br />

To be seen:<br />

Oliveto Castle<br />

Gullies at Casale<br />

Church of Santa Maria a Casale<br />

119<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Pian Grande<br />

Casale<br />

Podere San Luigi<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

9.2 km<br />

Time: 2h30’<br />

5.9 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

7 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

13.3 km<br />

Time: 4h


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEGS 4 / 5, ALTERNATIVE ROUTE<br />

Following an alternative route that also goes to Certaldo, but<br />

along the southern outskirts of the modern town, we come to<br />

the parish church of San Lazzaro a Lucardo, where we can<br />

also admire the picturesque Casale landscape with its gullies.<br />

Along this route, which begins a mile after the short detour to<br />

Oliveto, we find in succession, two churches: San Martino a<br />

Maiano and Santa Maria a Casale both formerly suffragans of<br />

the nearby church of San Lazzaro a Lucardo. The latter is one of<br />

the finest medieval churches in the Val d’Elsa, still with its original<br />

Romanesque architectural features, presumably from the years<br />

between the 11 th and 12 th centuries. It consists of three aisles,<br />

divided by a succession of arches rising from simple square pillars<br />

and has a number of technical and decorative motifs of Lombard<br />

origin (small barrel-vaulted arches crowning the apse, pilasters,<br />

offsets in the series of arches) that allow us to identify the workers<br />

as being from the Po River valley.<br />

Parish Church of San Lazzaro<br />

120<br />

www.vieromee.it


Near Casale<br />

121


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

LEG 6:<br />

POGGIBONSI<br />

MONTERIGGIONI<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Starting point og LEG 4<br />

Tresto<br />

Sassa<br />

Castagneto<br />

Megognano<br />

Poggiarello<br />

Lecchi<br />

Pini<br />

Staggia<br />

Fontana<br />

LEG 4 to Siena<br />

see page 126<br />

La Pineta<br />

Casone<br />

Serfignano<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

122<br />

Acquaviva<br />

junction with the Francigena<br />

Strove<br />

Certino di Sopra<br />

Badia a Isola


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Poggiarello, Lecchi, Staggia, Acquaviva-junction with the Francigena, Strove<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 390<br />

Distance: km 21<br />

Travel time: 5h25’<br />

Tourist-style leg that mainly covers dirt and asphalt roads and does not present<br />

particular orientation problems.<br />

Note: In Acquaviva, the itinerary joins the Via Francigena and continues along it<br />

passing through Strove and Abbadia a Isola as far as Monteriggioni.<br />

Water and refreshments can be found in the villages along the route.<br />

Transport:<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

To be seen:<br />

Staggia Fortress<br />

Castle of Monteriggioni<br />

Badia a Isola<br />

123<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 6<br />

124<br />

From Poggibonsi, our journey continues and connects to the<br />

hilly track of the Via Francigena at Badia a Isola. This route initially<br />

goes along the right side of the Staggia River (crossed at<br />

the mansion of San Giovanni Battista al Ponte), reaching the<br />

villages of Megognano and Lecchi, and then continuing to<br />

Staggia Castle, where we again cross the river. An important<br />

Florentine walled city, or terra murata, on the border with the<br />

state of Siena, Staggia has preserved almost the full circuit of the<br />

14 th - and 15 th -century fortifications that enclosed the town ending<br />

with the fortress. The latter reused the structures of a feudal<br />

castle, which were subsequently transformed and integrated by<br />

the Franzesi, a powerful Florentine merchant family whose fortune<br />

had been created in France.<br />

The route goes from Staggia along the flat valley bottom, reaching<br />

first, the small Romanesque churches of San Silvestro<br />

and of Sant’Antonio ai Laghi and then, Il Casone and Villa<br />

San Luigi.<br />

From here, following the Via Francigena directions, we come to<br />

Siena. In fact, Badia a Isola is quite near: we reach it after passing<br />

through the small village of Strove, where the Romanesque<br />

parish church, dedicated to Saint Martin, again recalls, with its<br />

dedication, the heavenly protection of pilgrims.<br />

Founded in 1001 as a family monastery by the lords of Staggia,<br />

the abbey of San Salvatore a Isola took its name from<br />

the fact that it rose at the edges of the wide swampy depression<br />

that characterized the area during the Middle Ages. The<br />

church was renovated in a Romanesque style around the mid-<br />

12 th century, becoming a large building with a basilican plan.<br />

Inside, it is divided into three aisles with alternating fascia pillars<br />

and columns, reflecting a typically Lombard layout. The building,<br />

however, also displays noticeable northern European influences<br />

(beginning with the twin portals, now partly closed) and ornate,<br />

very low relief decorations that recall a pre-Romanesque style of<br />

Volterran derivation.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

8 km<br />

Time: 1h40’<br />

Castle of Staggia<br />

Church of San Silvestro<br />

2.4 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Church of Sant’Antonio ai Laghi<br />

4 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

Strove<br />

6.6 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

Monteriggioni


Near the abbey on the top of a hill overlooking the Via Francigena,<br />

the Sienese erected the castle of Monteriggioni in the<br />

second decade of the 13 th century whose declared purpose was<br />

to control traffic on this important artery. The almost circular<br />

walls, with fourteen tall, quadrilateral towers that connect the<br />

parapet walk, make Monteriggioni one of Tuscany’s most picturesque<br />

medieval fortified structures, which suggested to Dante<br />

the similarity (Inferno XXXI vv.40-41): “Because as on its circular<br />

parapets / Montereggione crowns itself with towers.”<br />

Beyond Monteriggioni, the Via Francigena continued towards<br />

Siena, following different routes: one now is essentially followed<br />

by the “Cassia” state road; the other two routes ran along the<br />

left of the Staggia River.<br />

One of the two access gates in Monteriggioni<br />

125


3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA<br />

Continuing of LEG 4<br />

see page 122<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

LEG 7:<br />

MONTERIGGIONI<br />

PIAZZA DUOMO (SIENA)<br />

Petraglia<br />

Gallinaio<br />

Bracciano<br />

Fioreta<br />

Borgo Cerbaia<br />

Castagnoli<br />

Castle of<br />

the Chiocciola<br />

Villa<br />

Poggetto<br />

San Martino<br />

Fungaia<br />

Cannuccio<br />

Fabbrica<br />

Casalino<br />

Le Querce<br />

Casciano<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

126<br />

Monteriggioni


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Borgo di Cerbaia, Castle of the Chiocciola, Casalino, Le Querce<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 170<br />

Distance: km 20.5<br />

Travel time: 5h55’<br />

A tourist-style leg that follows either asphalt or natural road beds. Thanks to<br />

the signs for the Via Francigena, there are no problems finding the route. It<br />

is partially shaded by broad-leaved trees. There are few places for water and<br />

refreshments. The panoramas are extremely beautiful.<br />

Note: The itinerary corresponds to the Via Francigena of Sigeric.<br />

The distance covered in this leg requires a certain physical training for the walk.<br />

Transport:<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena<br />

To be seen:<br />

Castle of the Chiocciola<br />

Piazza Duomo – Siena<br />

127<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Frediano<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Leg 2<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Empoli<br />

Leg 3<br />

Empoli<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Leg 4<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Certaldo<br />

Leg 5<br />

Certaldo<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Leg 6<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Leg 7<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Siena


Leaving Monteriggioni, we walk south on the Via Francigena<br />

of Sigeric along the dirt roads of the Montagnola Senese. This<br />

is a series of ridges characterized by the widespread presence<br />

of holm-oak woods and the occasional chestnut and beech<br />

tree. The area is distinguished by a high concentration of parish<br />

churches, villas, monasteries, and castles, something difficult to<br />

find elsewhere.<br />

We thus head south to Cerbaia, a now abandoned medieval<br />

village. We cross some woods to reach the Castle of the Chiocciola.<br />

This is a fortification that was built as an outpost of the<br />

Republic of Siena, its function was to control the transit of pilgrims<br />

arriving from the north along the Via Francigena to Siena<br />

as well as to protect Siena from its enemy, Florence. The castle is<br />

made up of two buildings: a large crenellated keep and a high<br />

cylindrical battlemented tower that ends with a sentry box. The<br />

presence inside the tower of a large spiral staircase, precisely the<br />

shape of a snail, gave the fortification its name. We then pass<br />

through La Villa and descend towards the valley of Pian del Lago,<br />

where we take Montemaggio provincial road 101 to the right.<br />

Then we continue until Osteriaccia and, before the road enters<br />

the woods, we turn left onto a dirt road that leads to Casalino.<br />

We cross the road of Pian del Lago, and go on back streets to<br />

Convento Vecchio. Here, the place-name refers to the old Charterhouse<br />

of Belriguardo, built in 1340; it was later abandoned<br />

by the Carthusians in 1635 because of the unwholesomeness of<br />

the rooms.<br />

128<br />

Continuing east, we cross the ring road to arrive in Acqua Calda<br />

on the outskirts of Siena, and then continue to the historical<br />

center. From Porta Camollia, the northern entrance into Siena,<br />

the Via Francigena enters through the walls. From here, it is easy<br />

to find directions to the hospice of Santa Maria della Scala in<br />

Piazza Duomo.<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Ancient village of Cerbaia<br />

Castle of the Chiocciola<br />

Castle of the Villa<br />

Casalino<br />

Le Querce<br />

Piazza Duomo (Siena)<br />

4.4 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

0.5 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

6.3 km<br />

Time: 1h40’<br />

2.3 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

5.5 km<br />

Time: 1h40’


129<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

3 rd ITINERARY - THE VIA PISANA AND THE FRANCIGENA NOVA - LEG 7<br />

Above: Hospice of Santa Maria della Scala / Below: Frescoes, hospice


130<br />

The city of Siena (from the “Libro del Biadaiolo”, Laurentian Library, Florence)<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

The Hospices in Siena<br />

In Siena, pilgrims could find hospitality in the many inns found<br />

in the city, or in the equally numerous religious or secular hospices,<br />

among which the “Xenodochium hospitalis et de Canonica<br />

Sanctae Mariae” (later Santa Maria della Scala) stood out. It had<br />

branches throughout the Sienese territory, especially along the<br />

route of the Via Francigena. In front of the cathedral in Piazza<br />

Duomo is a large complex of mostly medieval buildings that was<br />

the hospital of La Scala and is now a museum.


ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Rooms Affittacamere<br />

Via Guardiana, 9<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8722985<br />

querceimm@inwind.it<br />

Valdirose Affittacamere<br />

Via Val di Rose, 37<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8724608<br />

Fax: 055 8724608<br />

irene@valdirose.com<br />

www.valdirose.com<br />

Viallani Enrico Agriturismo<br />

Via L. da Vinci, 47/49 - Calcinaia<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8723629 - Fax: 055 8723594<br />

agriturismo.cupoli@katamail.com<br />

www.agriturismocupoli.it<br />

Villa Toscana Affittacamere<br />

Via di Calcinaia, 105<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8723149<br />

Fax: 055 8723149<br />

info@florencehouserental.com<br />

www.florencehouserental.com<br />

Zantedeschi Giovanna Affittacamere<br />

Via Erta, 27<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 702165<br />

Lecceto<br />

Casa le Tuje B&B<br />

Via del Fantone, 2<br />

Malmantile<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8729113<br />

info@casaletuje.it<br />

www.casaletuje.it<br />

Tenuta San Vito Agriturismo<br />

Via San Vito, 59<br />

Malmantile<br />

50056 Montelupo Fiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 51411<br />

Fax: 0571 51405<br />

sanvito@san-vito.com<br />

www.san-vito.com<br />

Villa Saulina Agriturismo<br />

Via Maremmana, 11<br />

Malmantile<br />

50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8729511<br />

Fax: 055 878065<br />

info@villasaulina.it<br />

www.villasaulina.it<br />

Empoli<br />

Parrocchia San Simone e Giuda<br />

Via di Corniola, 75<br />

Corniola<br />

50053 Empoli<br />

Tel: parroco 0571 924658<br />

Cell: 3286689734<br />

Queen Zenobia Affittacamere<br />

Via Rozzalupi, 21<br />

50053 Empoli<br />

Tel: 0571 72646<br />

queenzenobia@libero.it<br />

www.queenzenobia.it<br />

Scarselli Affittacamere<br />

Via Meucci, 2<br />

50053 Empol<br />

Tel: 0571 960090<br />

info@scarselliaffittacamere.it<br />

www.scarselliaffittacamere.it<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Il Grande Prato Ostello<br />

Via Renai, 11<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 61744<br />

Fax: 0571 635875<br />

info@grandeprato.it<br />

www.grandeprato.it<br />

La casa di Cecchina Affittacamere<br />

Via dei Praticelli, 1<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 633408<br />

lacasadicecchina@katamail.com<br />

La Castellina Affittacamere<br />

Via San Lorenzo, 8<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 64786<br />

0571 684910<br />

Monastero di S. Benedetto<br />

Via delle Monache, 17<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 631489<br />

Parrocchia Santa Maria della Marca<br />

Piazza A Grandi, 38<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: parish priest 0571 634210<br />

Tagliaferri Grazia Affittacamere<br />

Via di Cambiano Alto, 12<br />

Cambiano<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino<br />

Tel: 0571 672324<br />

Fax: 0571 672115<br />

131


132<br />

Casale<br />

Agriturismo di Fonti<br />

Via S.Martino, 35/46<br />

San Martino a Maiano<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: 0571 669439 - Fax: 0571 669437<br />

www.agricoladifonti.it<br />

Agriturismo Tenuta di Sticciano<br />

Via di Sticciano, 207<br />

Fiano<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: 0571 669032<br />

Fax: 0571 669422<br />

www.tenutadisticciano.it<br />

Agriturismo Villa Il Bacìo<br />

Via del Pino, 703<br />

Il Bacìo<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: 055 609409<br />

Fax: 055 609409<br />

www.fattoriabacio.com<br />

1.9km North-East of Casale<br />

Chiesa di San Gaudenzio a Ruballa<br />

Via del Pino<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: Parrocchia S. Donato a Lucardo, from<br />

which the church depends 0571 669125<br />

a 1,5km a Nord-Est di Casale<br />

Chiesa San Martino a Maiano<br />

Via S.Martino<br />

Maiano<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: parish priest Don Elio Agostini<br />

0571 668054<br />

Villa La Poggiolaia Casa Vacanza<br />

Via del Pino<br />

Il Bacìo, Sammozzano<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: 0571 669695<br />

paola@poggiolaia.it<br />

www.poggiolaia.it<br />

Apartments 2.9 km North-East of Casale<br />

Certaldo<br />

Casa Chianti Ostello<br />

Casenuove, 77<br />

Fiano<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Fattoria Bassetto Ostello<br />

Via delle Città, 4<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Il Pianigiano B&B<br />

Via Piano di Sotto, 89<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

MSN Relais Fattoria Bacio Ostello<br />

Via del Pino, 703<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Parrocchia S. Tommaso Apostolo<br />

Via XX Settembre, 6<br />

50052 Certaldo<br />

Tel: parish priest 0571 668054<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Agriturismo La Moraia<br />

Talciona, 37<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

B&B Antico Podere Il Bugnolo<br />

Canonica, 5<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Borgo di Talciona Affittacamere<br />

Talciona, 18<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 0577 989087 - 347 1987331<br />

maridatalciona@yahoo.it<br />

Casa ai Carfini Affittacamere<br />

Strolla, 5<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 347 3217165<br />

info@casaaicarfini.com<br />

www.casaaicarfini.com<br />

Garden House B&B<br />

Orneto, 6<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 0577 988005 - 347 6151070<br />

Migliorni Fernanda Affittacamere<br />

Piazza Calatafimi, 9<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 0577 938671<br />

0577 980206<br />

Poggioagrilli Casa Vacanza<br />

Poggiagrilli, 23<br />

Gavignano<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

poggiagrilli@yahoo.it<br />

www.poggiagrilli.it<br />

Santuario Francescano<br />

di San Lucchese<br />

Via San Lucchese<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 0577 936219<br />

0577 930577<br />

www.sanlucchese.org<br />

Santuario Romituzzo<br />

Via Burresi, 17<br />

53036 Poggibonsi<br />

Tel: 0577 938071<br />

www.romituzzo.it


Monteriggioni<br />

Casa del Clero Sant’Ansano<br />

Via Montarioso, 35<br />

53035 Monteriggioni<br />

Tel: 0577 596078<br />

Casa per ferie S. Maria Assunta<br />

Castello di Monteriggioni<br />

Piazza Roma, 23<br />

53035 Monteriggioni<br />

Tel: 0577 304214<br />

Cell: 335 6651581<br />

casaferiesma@yahoo.it<br />

www.monteriggioniturismo.it<br />

Parrocchia di Cristo Re<br />

Piazza Cristo Re, 1<br />

53035 Monteriggioni<br />

Tel: 0577 304214 - Cell: 335 6651581<br />

casaferiesma@yahoo.it<br />

Villa Montarioso<br />

Via Montarioso, 35<br />

53035 Monteriggioni<br />

Siena<br />

Accoglienza Santa Luisa<br />

Via San Girolamo, 8<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 284377<br />

Alma Domus<br />

Santuario Santa Caterina<br />

Via Camporegio, 31<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 44177<br />

Fax: 0577 47601<br />

Caritas Affittacamere<br />

Via della Diana, 4<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 280643<br />

caritas@carita-sfiera.org<br />

www.caritas-siena.org<br />

Casa Famiglia S. Maria dei Servi<br />

P.za A. Manzoni, 8<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 222633<br />

Casa per ferie Istituto<br />

Maria de’ Gori<br />

Via dei Servi, 31<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 221076<br />

Fax: 0577 221298<br />

Eremo Agostiniano del Lecceto<br />

Via del Lecceto, 6<br />

53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 349393<br />

Ostello della Gioventù Guidoriccio<br />

Via Fiorentina, 89 - 53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 52212<br />

siena@ostellionline.org<br />

www.ostelloguidoriccio.com<br />

Seminario Pontificio Regionale PIO XII<br />

Via Montarioso, 35 - 53011 Siena<br />

Tel: 0577 587011<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

APT Florence<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Via Cavour 1r<br />

Tel: 055 290832 - 055 290833<br />

info1@Florenceturismo.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30<br />

a.m.-6.30 p.m., Sundays and holidays<br />

8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />

www.Florenceturismo.it<br />

Tourist Information Office Lastra a Signa<br />

Kiosk in Piazza Stazione<br />

Via L. Cadorna, 1- 50055 Lastra a Signa<br />

Tel: 055 8725770<br />

Fax: 055 8727933<br />

ufficioturistico@comune.lastra-a-signa.fi.it<br />

UPT Montelupo Fiorentino<br />

via Baccio Sinibaldi, 43<br />

Tel: 0571 518993<br />

Fax: 0571 911421<br />

ufficioturistico@museomontelupo.it<br />

“Le Terre del Rinascimento”<br />

Intermunicipal Tourist Information Office<br />

Via della Torre, 11<br />

50050 Vinci (Florence)<br />

Tel 0571 568012 - Fax 0571 567930<br />

www.terredelrinascimento.it<br />

terredelrinascimento@comune.vinci.fi.it<br />

Tourist and Culture Office Municipality<br />

of Empoli<br />

P.zza Farinata degli Uberti<br />

50053 Empoli (Florence)<br />

Tel 0571 757729 - Fax 0571757740<br />

cultura@comune.empoli.fi.it<br />

Hours: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays<br />

and Fridays 9 a.m.-12 p.m.; Tuesdays<br />

and Thursdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />

U.R.P. Information Point Municipality<br />

of Empoli<br />

Via G. del Papa 41<br />

50053 Empoli (Florence)<br />

Tel 0571 757622 - Fax 055 0571 980033<br />

www.comune.empoli.fi.it<br />

www.empolese-valdelsa.it<br />

urp@comune.empoli.fi.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.-<br />

1.30 p.m./2.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.;<br />

Saturdays 8 a.m.-1.30 p.m.<br />

133


134<br />

Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />

of Castelfiorentino<br />

c/o Stazione FFSS - Via Ridolfi, 1<br />

50051 Castelfiorentino (Florence)<br />

Tel e Fax 0571 629049<br />

www.comune.castelfiorentino.fi.it<br />

infocastello@libero.it<br />

Winter hours (from mid-October to 1 April):<br />

Every day 10 a.m.-12 p.m./4 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />

Summer hours: every day 9 a.m.-12.30<br />

p.m./3.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.<br />

Tourist Information Office of Certaldo<br />

Piazza Masini, c/o Stazione FFSS<br />

(In the premises of the former goods yard)<br />

50051 Certaldo (Florence)<br />

Tel: 0571 656721 - Fax: 0571 627531<br />

www.comune.certaldo.fi.it<br />

info.turismo@comune.certaldo.fi.it<br />

Hours (from the week before Easter until<br />

mid-October): 9 a.m.-1 p.m./3.30 p.m.-7<br />

p.m.; (from mid-October to 31 December):<br />

10 a.m.-12 p.m./3.30 p.m.-5.30 p.m.<br />

Pro Loco Certaldo<br />

Via Boccaccio 16<br />

50052 Certaldo (Florence)<br />

Tel. 0571 652730<br />

www.prolococertaldo.it<br />

segreteria@prolococertaldo.it<br />

Summer hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30<br />

p.m.-7 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings<br />

Winter hours: 10 a.m.-12.30 p.m./2.30<br />

p.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Monday mornings<br />

Tourist Information Poggibonsi<br />

Piazza Mazzini, 6<br />

Tel: 0577 935113 - Fax: 0577 982509<br />

www.terresiena.it<br />

poggibonsi@vacanzesenesi.it<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

of Monteriggioni<br />

P.za Roma, 23<br />

Tel: 0577 304834 - 0577 573213<br />

Fax: 0577304834<br />

skype: ufficioturisticomonteriggioni<br />

info@monteriggioniturismo.it<br />

APT Siena<br />

Piazza del Campo 56<br />

Tel: 0577 280551 - Fax 0577:270676<br />

aptsiena@siena.turismo.toscana.it<br />

Events and fairs<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Bartolomeo<br />

(24 August)<br />

Barberino Medievale (end of May)<br />

Barberino Val d’Elsa Semifonte<br />

Feast of San Michele Arcangelo<br />

(last Sunday in September)<br />

Castelfiorentino<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Santa Verdiana<br />

(first week of June)<br />

Palio dei Rioni (third Sunday of June)<br />

Certaldo<br />

Feast of the Beata Giulia<br />

(first Sunday of September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso<br />

(3 July)<br />

Certaldo, Parco di Canonica<br />

Festa degli arcieri (1 May)<br />

Empoli<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea<br />

(30 November)<br />

Celebration for Corpus Domini<br />

(14 June)<br />

Volo del ciuco (June)<br />

Festa della Stagione Bona (April)<br />

Lastra a Signa<br />

Feast of Sant’Anna (July)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino<br />

(11 November)<br />

Lastra a Signa, Loc. Malmantile<br />

Medieval Festival in Malmantile (May)<br />

Montelupo<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />

Evangelista (27 December)<br />

Montelupo, Loc.Turbone<br />

Bosco in festa<br />

(last weekend of October)<br />

Montespertoli<br />

Festival of Rificolona (7 September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Andrea<br />

(30 November)<br />

Itinerant Via Crucis (Easter)<br />

Monteriggioni<br />

Feast of the Birth of the Patron Saint,<br />

Maria Vergine (8 September)<br />

Festa dei Rioni e Torneo del Barilotto<br />

(settembre)<br />

Poggibonsi<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lucchese<br />

(28 April)<br />

Siena<br />

Celebrazioni Cateriniane (2 - 3 May)<br />

Palio della Madonna di Provenzano<br />

(2 July)<br />

Palio dell’Assunzione (16 August)<br />

Santa Lucia (13 December)<br />

Sant’Ansano (1 December)


4 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

the pilgrim route to Rome<br />

in the 13 th century<br />

135<br />

Until at least the end of the 12 th century, the importance of the<br />

road connecting Florence and Bologna that crossed the Mugello<br />

was probably modest. The main artery used for going to and from<br />

the Po River Valley continued to be the Via Francigena, as evidenced<br />

by documentary sources that inevitably mention the route<br />

through the Apennine pass of Monte Bardone (Cisa). Yet, as mentioned<br />

previously, in the 13 th century Florence got hold of the main<br />

communication axis with Padania, the Po valley, imposing one of<br />

the roads that connected with Bologna as a route over the Apennines.<br />

Originally, this road was used to reach the upper Santerno<br />

valley and only later was it extended to Bologna. Beyond San Piero<br />

a Sieve, the road passed through the parishes of Sant’Agata and<br />

Cornacchiaia, using the pass in the Mugello known as the Osteria<br />

Bruciata, which was later replaced by the Giogo Pass.


4 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13 th century<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Ceppeto (Monte Morello)<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

136<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

End point: Sant’Agata<br />

Elevation gain:<br />

1200<br />

1000<br />

800<br />

600<br />

400<br />

200<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

Horticultural Garden<br />

Stibbert Museum<br />

Parish Church of Cercina<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Buonsollazzo Abbey<br />

Trebbio Castle<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

00


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 108.7<br />

Distance (local itineraries): km 16.9<br />

Level of physical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Ceppeto (Monte Morello)<br />

Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra,<br />

Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi,<br />

Parish Church of Cercina<br />

Distance: km 15.6 - Page 142<br />

Leg 2: Ceppeto (Monte Morello) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Waypoints: Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno,<br />

Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />

Distance: km 15 - Page 150<br />

Leg 3: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata<br />

Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve,<br />

Gabbiano<br />

Distance: km 23 - Page 154<br />

Leg 3 Local Itineraries:<br />

Lake of Bilancino – Castle of Cafaggiolo<br />

Distance: km 8.5 - Page 158<br />

Scarperia<br />

Distance: km 8.4 - Page 158<br />

Leg 4: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola<br />

Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />

Distance: km 17.5 - Page 164<br />

Leg 5: Firenzuola – Covigliaio<br />

Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala<br />

Distance: km 13.8 - Page 170<br />

Leg 6: Covigliaio – Futa Pass<br />

Waypoints: Cà degli Arrighi<br />

Distance: km 10.4 - Page 174<br />

Leg 7: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata<br />

Waypoints: Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio<br />

Distance: km 13.4 - Page 178<br />

137<br />

The tour takes place mostly on trails , dirt and gravel roads (55%), and asphalt<br />

secondary roads (45%). There are particularly demanding hilly legs (Ceppeto<br />

– Monte Senario; Sant’Agata – Firenzuola, Firenzuola – Covigliaio). The route<br />

unwinds amidst landscapes of great beauty, with native broadleaf and conifer<br />

woods that were planted at the start of the last century.<br />

We cross two natural sites of Community Importance: Monte Morello and the<br />

Firenzuola Basin. Attention must be paid along the short sections that go along<br />

provincial and/or local roads, and the rules of the road Code regarding pedestrian<br />

movement on out-of-town roads must be followed<br />

Note: Undertaking this itinerary requires orientation skills, experience, and<br />

knowledge of mountainous terrain and adequate physical training for the walk,<br />

as well as appropriate footwear and equipment. The hiking stretches follow CAI<br />

trails almost exclusively, and so they are usually marked; the only exception is<br />

between Covigliaio and Passeggere. Water is available in the villages and fountains<br />

along the route. From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia<br />

Romagna through the Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or<br />

continue our journey in a southerly direction that takes us back to Sant’Agata.


4 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

the pilgrim route to Rome in the 13 th century<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

138<br />

Hospice of San Gallo and the beginning of the Via Bolognese in the Catena Map


BIKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 108.7<br />

Level of technical difficulty: TC-MC<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: From Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Waypoints: Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra,<br />

Piazza di Careggi, Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi,<br />

Parish Church of Cercina, Ceppeto, Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno,<br />

Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />

Distance: km 30.6<br />

Page 142<br />

Leg 2: Sanctuary of Monte Senario – Sant’Agata<br />

Waypoints: Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve,<br />

Gabbiano<br />

Distance: km 23<br />

Page 154<br />

Leg 3: Sant’Agata – Firenzuola<br />

Waypoints: Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />

Distance: km 17.5<br />

Page 164<br />

Leg 4: Firenzuola – Futa Pass<br />

Waypoints: Le Valli, Pietramala, Covigliaio, Cà degli Arrighi<br />

Distance: km 24.2<br />

Page 170<br />

Leg 5: Futa Pass – Sant’Agata<br />

Waypoints: Passo dell’Osteri Bruciata, Riarsiccio<br />

Distance: km 13.4<br />

Page 178<br />

The route alternates between asphalt and gravel roads, with slightly bumpy and<br />

irregular stretches for average cyclists (MC class). Except for the section between<br />

Passeggere and Covigliaio, the path is usually well-marked and identifiable.<br />

The landscape is extremely picturesque, and is characterized by both the typical<br />

central Apennine mountain ecosystems, with oak and chestnut forests and<br />

planted pine groves, and by the farmed hills of the Mugello valley and the<br />

mountain pastures of the Firenzuola basin.<br />

Note: The course presents technical difficulties in some parts and requires good<br />

physical training. The more technically demanding stretches are found in Leg 5,<br />

from the Futa Pass to Osteria Bruciata, and near Camporomano (shortly after<br />

the Abbey of Buonsollazzo), above all, for the limited width of the path. Orientation<br />

problems may arise along Leg 5 between Covigliaio and Passeggere<br />

because of the absence of CAI signage. The course is physically very demanding<br />

because of the presence of some major climbs (the Monte Senario, Firenzuola,<br />

and Futa Pass legs). It is preferable to use a very sturdy mountain- or city-bike on<br />

this route. The stretches suitable for racing bikes are only those around Florence<br />

and those on the Mugello plain. There are no particular problems associated<br />

with the availability of water as there are fountains and towns along the way.<br />

From Pietramala, it is possible to continue towards Emilia Romagna through the<br />

Raticosa Pass along the ancient pilgrim route to Rome, or to proceed on our<br />

journey, which takes us back in a southerly direction to Sant’Agata.<br />

139


A Disputed Route<br />

The succession of measures undertaken by the Florentine Republic<br />

to increase the route’s efficiency – bridge construction,<br />

rebuilding of road sections – could not avoid creating conflicts<br />

with the powerful feudal house of the Ubaldini family, whose<br />

possessions were distributed on both sides of the Tuscan-Emilian<br />

Apennines. The foundation of the two terrenuove or towns of<br />

Scarperia and Firenzuola must be seen in the context of the ageold<br />

struggle against these Mugello landowners who were finally<br />

crushed around the mid-14 th century – the same years in which<br />

the new road that directly connected, via the Giogo Pass, the<br />

two terrenuove mentioned above was opened. Significantly, on<br />

the occasion of the foundation of Firenzuola, it was stated, “in<br />

qua et per quam terram Firenzuole sit et esse debeat una via<br />

que vadat versus Florentiam et recte versus Bononiam” (Public<br />

Records Office of Florence, Chapters, reg.32 c.71r.)<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w with Trebbio Castle, San Piero a Sieve<br />

140<br />

www.vieromee.it


A Road Towards Europe<br />

The new road connection would become the important transit<br />

conduit between northern and central Italy, increasingly used by<br />

merchants and travelers but especially by pilgrims going to Rome.<br />

The latter, especially those arriving in Italy from the countries of<br />

Central Europe, crossed the Alps and arrived in the Po River Valley.<br />

From there, they took up the Via Emilia, proceeding to Bologna<br />

and then took the road to Florence. Then following the roads to<br />

the south that linked the city on the Arno to the Via Francigena<br />

(the Strada Sanese and the Via Romana), pilgrims going to Rome<br />

rejoined the ancient route to Rome in Siena or Poggibonsi.<br />

But the road that connected Florence and Bologna was often<br />

also the route used by those Florentine pilgrims who wanted<br />

to visit the other two destinations of peregrinationes maiores:<br />

Santiago de Compostela and Jerusalem. In their memoirs some<br />

Jacobean pilgrims who began their long walk from Florence, indeed<br />

described the route across the Apennines leading to Bologna<br />

from where they reached Borgo San Donnino via the Via<br />

Emilia whence the Via Francigena was taken up. And also those<br />

who were going to the Holy Land passed by Bologna in order to<br />

reach Venice, the city that had become the customary embarcation<br />

point for the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the 14 th century.<br />

Hospice of the Ruota, on the old Via Bolognese<br />

141


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

LEG 1:<br />

PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence)<br />

CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO)<br />

Ceppeto<br />

(Monte Morello)<br />

Continuing of LEG 1<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

Fondi<br />

see page 150<br />

Il Carretello<br />

Park at Villa Demidoff<br />

Pieve di Cercina<br />

Montorsoli<br />

Il Casale<br />

Piazza-Canonica<br />

di Cercina<br />

Montorsoli<br />

Trespiano<br />

Piazza di Careggi<br />

Santa Marta<br />

La Pietra<br />

142<br />

Park at the<br />

Stibbert Museum<br />

Horticultural Garden<br />

Porta San Gallo (Firenze)<br />

Starting point of LEG 1<br />

A section along the route


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Horticultural Garden, Park at the Stibbert Museum, La Pietra, Piazza di Careggi,<br />

Piazza-Canonica di Cercina, Montorsoli, Fondi, Parish Church of Cercina<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 560<br />

Distance: km 15.6<br />

Travel time: 5h20’<br />

This leg goes along asphalt and stone-paved roads in an area around Florence.<br />

It is a well-marked route that does not present orientation problems.<br />

Note: Attention must be paid to road traffic on the stretches of narrow roads<br />

encountered. This leg becomes physically demanding at the park of the Stibbert<br />

Museum when the climb to Ceppeto starts.<br />

Transport:<br />

Florence<br />

Montorsoli<br />

To be seen:<br />

Horticultural Garden<br />

Park at Villa La Pietra<br />

Park at Villa Demidoff<br />

143<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

The Community of Pellegrino<br />

“Pellegrino” was a village located outside the 14 th -century walls of Florence<br />

that extended on the right of the Via Bolognese just outside Porta<br />

San Gallo. It took its name from the existence of numerous accommodation<br />

structures there for pilgrims to Rome coming from the north<br />

who stopped in Florence on their way. With the early 19th-century<br />

administrative reforms, the whole Pellegrino area and the surrounding<br />

villages of Careggi, Montughi, Novoli and others were merged into<br />

a single Community, which took the name of Pellegrino da Careggi.<br />

Later eliminated during the period when Florence was the capital, the<br />

community was incorporated into the municipality of Florence. Toponymic<br />

evidence of its existence remains in the name of a minor road<br />

that branches off from the Via Bolognese, called Via del Pellegrino.<br />

Coat-of-arms of the Hospice of Gesù Pellegrino<br />

144


The starting point of our journey along the Via Bolognese is Piazza<br />

della Libertà, formerly known by the name of Piazza San<br />

Gallo which took its name from the important Florentine hospice<br />

that had once stood there, and which was destroyed at the time<br />

of the 1529 siege of Florence.<br />

The medieval Via Bolognese started from the city gate that was<br />

also called San Gallo. The initial stretch is by now a city street,<br />

along which a whole succession of buildings and places recall<br />

the pilgrims’ transit. There were hospices near the Church of<br />

Santa Maria del Suffragio (linked to the mansion of the Order<br />

of Saint James of Altopascio) and where today the Villas Spalletti<br />

and Spedaluzzo are located.<br />

In order to get around the traffic problems that characterize this<br />

whole area of the city, our route begins from Piazza della Libertà,<br />

near the ancient route. From the square, we suggest taking Via<br />

Paolo Toscanelli to Viale Milton and crossing the Mugnone on<br />

the pedestrian bridge there to get to Via XX Settembre. We cross<br />

the street and enter the Horticultural Garden where we can<br />

admire the large 19 th -century hothouse that sheltered the plants<br />

from sub-tropical countries studied by the Società di Orticoltura<br />

Toscana, established in 1852 by the Accademia dei Georgofili.<br />

On the other side of the park is Via Trento, from which a superb<br />

panoramic view of the city can be enjoyed. We continue along<br />

the street as far as Via Trieste, which leads us into Via Vittorio<br />

Emanuele II. After a short stretch, we turn right into Via Stibbert,<br />

becoming Via Montughi, which takes us back to the Via<br />

Bolognese at La Pietra whose name is linked to the presence of<br />

The Horticultural Garden of Florence<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1<br />

145<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

0.5 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Horticultural Garden<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Stibbert Museum and Park<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

La Pietra<br />

6.5 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Montorsoli<br />

Parish Church of Cercina<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h05’<br />

1.1 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Castiglioni<br />

Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />

a Ceppeto<br />

1.6 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

www.vieromee.it


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1<br />

a milestone that indicated the first mile from Porta San Gallo. In<br />

La Pietra, there is a large tabernacle with a 15 th -century fresco<br />

that depicts the Madonna enthroned surrounded by saints and<br />

two pilgrims’ hospices dedicated to St. Nicholas and St Jerome<br />

that were a little further on, in the village of La Lastra where we<br />

find the hospice of the Ruota, a small late-Romanesque building<br />

with a single rectangular nave.<br />

To avoid the dangers related to traffic, we abandon at La Pietra<br />

the ancient route of Via Bolognese that today follows the state<br />

road 65, and enter a secondary road on the left (Via della Pietra)<br />

that leads us to Piazza di Careggi. From here, we take Via Terzollina<br />

that runs to the right of the stream of the same name and<br />

start to climb the hilly slopes of Monte Morello. We pass through<br />

Canonica di Cercina and come to the Romanesque Parish<br />

Church of Sant’Andrea in Cercina, which was a pilgrimage<br />

destination in the past because of the popular veneration for an<br />

ancient and precious wooden statue of the Madonna kept there.<br />

From the Cercina parish church, we follow a secondary road until<br />

we reach Castiglioni, where there is a villa built on a 13 th -century<br />

tower house, and a church dedicated to St. Michael, formerly<br />

suffragan of the parish church. We then continue towards Via<br />

dei Colli Alti passing near the forest station. We now reach the<br />

Oratory of San Jacopo a Ceppeto after traveling a short stretch<br />

of Via dei Colli Alti.<br />

The Park at Villa La Pietra<br />

146<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

0.5 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Horticultural Garden<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Stibbert Museum and Park<br />

0.9 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

La Pietra<br />

6.5 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Montorsoli<br />

Parish Church of Cercina<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 1h05’<br />

1.1 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Castiglioni<br />

Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />

a Ceppeto<br />

1.6 km<br />

Time: 45’


DEVOTION<br />

Cercina, A Place Chosen by Mary<br />

According to tradition, it was believed that the image of the Madonna<br />

of Cercina was left at the church by a cardinal heading to<br />

France in 1285. An ancient account recounts that the sacred image<br />

(a 13 th -century, polychrome wooden statue), was loaded on<br />

a mule, along with other household goods, and that once it had<br />

arrived in the parish of Cercina “on the road that leads to Bologna,<br />

at Montorsoli, the mule stopped as if riveted [to the spot],<br />

in such a way that even the violence of all the carters could not<br />

move it… the cardinal and his whole court followed the mule in<br />

astonishment, until it stopped at the church” (V. FINESCHI, Notizie<br />

istoriche riguardanti l’antica e miracolosa figura di Maria Vergine<br />

situata nella chiesa di Sant’Andrea a Cercina, Firenze 1795, p.62).<br />

The site was recognized as the one chosen by Mary as her shelter<br />

and “as soon as [the statue was] unloaded, the mule fell to the<br />

ground as if in the act of worship”. From that time on, there was<br />

such an uninterrupted pilgrimage to the wooden statue of the<br />

Madonna that in 1435 a high prelate (Cardinal Lodovico di Varambona)<br />

issued a Breve conceding special indulgences to all visitors.<br />

The Parish Church of Cercina<br />

147


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Park at Villa Demidoff<br />

Along the Via Bolognese pilgrim route, climbing towards Monte<br />

Morello, we reach Via dei Colli Alti, next to the forest station.<br />

From here, we turn right and go east on Via dei Colli Alti. After<br />

3 km, we come to the village of Pratolino where we can visit the<br />

historical park of Villa Demidoff. In 1568 Francesco I de’ Medici<br />

acquired the Pratolino holding and charged Buontalenti with the<br />

task of making it a residence for his second wife Bianca Cappello.<br />

The villa was located in the middle of a 40-hectare park in which<br />

there were complex water jets with automata, water tricks, and<br />

monumental fountains embellished by the presence of ancient<br />

statues, mother of pearl, semi-precious stones and marbles. Of<br />

these, only the statue of the Colossus of the Apennines by Giambologna<br />

remains, immersed in the park where a rich and varied<br />

flora can be enjoyed. The park offers numerous cultural and musical<br />

activities, including RURALIA, an event in May that evokes<br />

an agricultural fair from the last century.<br />

The Colossus of the Apennines by Giambologna, the park at Villa Demidoff<br />

148


<strong>Vie</strong>w towards Cercina from Castiglione<br />

149<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 1


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

LEG 2:<br />

CEPPETO (MONTE MORELLO)<br />

SANTUARIO DEL MONTE SENARIO<br />

Carzola di Sotto<br />

Via Bolognese<br />

Il Trebbio<br />

Sanctuary<br />

of Monte<br />

Senario<br />

Causelle<br />

Bivigliano<br />

Marcherello<br />

Viliani<br />

Paterno<br />

Ferraglia<br />

Le Case<br />

Pratello<br />

Fontebuona<br />

Pescina<br />

Monte Morello<br />

150<br />

Ceppeto<br />

Continuing of LEG 1<br />

see page 142<br />

Park at Villa Demidoff<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Mugello countryside


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Monte Morello, Pescina, Pratello, Paterno, Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese, Bivigliano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Difficult<br />

Climb: m 700<br />

Distance: km 15<br />

Travel time: 5h15’<br />

This leg goes along on both small asphalt roads and on forest roads with a<br />

gravel road bed.<br />

The path is well-marked also within the Monte Morello reserve. The leg proceeds<br />

within the Monte Morello Site of Community Importance (SCI), through a<br />

landscape characterized by turkey and downy oak woods planted at the beginning<br />

of last century. In the distance, the woods of Arizona cypress, Atlas cedar,<br />

and Austrian, Corsican, and Turkish pine are also visible, which were planted<br />

during the same period. Picturesque waterfalls are present a short distance from<br />

the village of Paterno.<br />

Note: This is one of the most challenging legs, from a physical point of view,<br />

along the route. Attention should be paid to road traffic along the provincial<br />

and regional roads.<br />

Transport:<br />

Monte Senario<br />

To be seen:<br />

Park at Villa Demidoff<br />

Monte Morello, Site of Community Importance<br />

Convent of Monte Senario<br />

151<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />

Monte Morello<br />

A Site of Community Importance (SCI), Monte Morello covers<br />

over 4000 hectares. Of scenic and recreational significance, the<br />

remaining open areas play a strategic role in providing nesting<br />

and wintering places for endangered bird species. Today the<br />

mountain enjoys a rich fauna composed of wild boar, fox, deer,<br />

hare, roe deer, pheasant and other animals – vipers are not uncommon<br />

– with a thick vegetation of pine, oak, cypress and silver<br />

fir. Of importance is also the presence of such amphibians<br />

as the Spectacled Salamander. There are numerous water springs<br />

(Seppi, Ciliegio, etc.), although some have disappeared or their<br />

capacity has been reduced because of the excavations carried out<br />

under the mountain for the high-speed trains. In addition, there<br />

has been the gradual desiccation of many black pine woods, an<br />

effect of the climatic trends in recent years coupled with the exponential<br />

spread of bark beetles, the vectors of blue stain fungus<br />

(Leptographium sp.) that have led to their foliage turning red until<br />

completely dehydrated.<br />

Monte Morello remains the Florentines’ “mountain” as they go<br />

there to walk, hike and picnic in the summer or to look for mushrooms<br />

and wild asparagus.<br />

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />

152<br />

The Convent of Monte Senario<br />

At the top of Monte Senario is the convent of the Order of the<br />

Servants of Mary. The Servite congregation came into existence<br />

here in 1233, on the initiative of seven noble Florentines (the “seven<br />

founding brothers”) who retreated to the mount in prayer.<br />

From their coenobitic experience, the Servants of Mary – as the<br />

followers of the new order were called – were born and they<br />

had considerable success in 13 th -century Tuscan and Italian society.<br />

The original convent grew over the years and was completely<br />

rebuilt in the late 16 th century at the behest of Grand Duke Ferdinando<br />

I. Subsequently, it was further modified until it assumed<br />

its current shape. Along the quiet paths scattered about the thick<br />

pine forest surrounding the monastery and covering the summit<br />

of Monte Senario are numerous signs of the order’s religious history,<br />

all within walking distance. There are the cells, caves and<br />

chapels dedicated to various saints and blessed souls belonging<br />

to the Servite congregation. From the panoramic terrace that surrounds<br />

the church and the monastic premises, we can enjoy a<br />

magnificent view over the Arno valley and the Mugello.


From the Oratory of San Jacopo in Ceppeto, we follow a CAI<br />

path that leads us – passing through Pescina – to the road that<br />

goes to the small village of Paterno. We continue and we soon<br />

come to the state road that we follow for a short stretch in a<br />

southerly direction. Then, we take the road on the left and pass<br />

through the village of Sommavilla until we arrive in the village of<br />

Bivigliano, which stretches at the foot of Monte Senario, where<br />

a foot path begins that leads to the sanctuary of the same name.<br />

Convent of Monte Senario<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2<br />

153<br />

Oratory of Sant’Iacopo<br />

a Ceppeto<br />

4.7 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Paterno<br />

2.6 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Carzola di Sotto-Via Bolognese<br />

4.8 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

Bivigliano<br />

2.9 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

www.vieromee.it


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

LEG 3:<br />

SANCTUARY OF MONTE SENARIO<br />

SANT’AGATA<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Cafaccio<br />

Santa Maria<br />

Gabbiano<br />

LOCAL ITINERARY<br />

Scarperia<br />

Mogognano<br />

LOCAL ITINERARY<br />

Lake Bilancino<br />

Castle of<br />

Cafaggiolo<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

Castle of Trebbio<br />

Ischieti<br />

Tagliaferro<br />

Campomigliaio<br />

Abbey of Buonsollazzo<br />

154<br />

Vaglia<br />

Il Trebbio<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 2<br />

Sanctuary<br />

of Monte<br />

Senario<br />

Towards the Mugello


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Buonsollazzo Abbey, Tagliaferro, Castle of Trebbio, San Piero a Sieve,<br />

Gabbiano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 290<br />

Distance: km 23<br />

Travel time: 6h25’<br />

The route on dirt roads and paths is well-marked, except near Camporomano,<br />

shortly after Buonsollazzo Abbey, where the CAI signs affixed to tree trunks are<br />

missing. This leg requires orientation skills and good physical training.<br />

Note: Once in Trebbio, you can take the local route for Lake Bilancino and<br />

Castle of Cafaggiolo or remain on the main road and take the dirt track to the<br />

right following the CAI 19 signs as far as Ischieti, which is found at the end of<br />

the first local itinerary. Once in San Piero a Sieve, however, you can turn right<br />

in Via Calimara from Piazza della Colonna, and take the second local itinerary<br />

that leads to Scarperia.<br />

After the Abbey of Buonsollazzo, heading down towards Camporomano, cyclists<br />

are advised to proceed on foot to avoid falls.<br />

Transport:<br />

Monte Senario<br />

Scarperia<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

To be seen:<br />

Castle of Trebbio<br />

Medicean Fortress of San Martino – San Piero a Sieve<br />

Convent of Bosco ai Frati<br />

155<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 2<br />

156<br />

From the sanctuary of Monte Senario, we continue our itinerary<br />

and we pass by the Abbey of Buonsollazzo, which is said<br />

to have been built before the year 1000 by Marchese Ugo di<br />

Toscana, in the place where he had the vision that converted<br />

him to the Christian life. The abbey later passed to a Cistercian<br />

congregation and then to the Trappist monks, to whom we owe<br />

the 18 th -century layout of the complex.<br />

After passing the abbey, we continue along the path until we<br />

come to the state road at Tagliaferro, a village remembered as<br />

having many inns and hostels in addition to a pilgrims’ hospice<br />

dedicated to Saint Lawrence, recorded since 1221.<br />

We cross the Via Bolognese and take the road that, by way of<br />

Uccellare and Spugnole, leads to Trebbio Castle, the ancestral<br />

home of the Medici. We continue on as far as Ischieti skirting<br />

the Fortress of San Martino, built in the second half of the<br />

16 th century by Grand Duke Cosimo I, on the hill overlooking<br />

San Piero a Sieve.<br />

Leaving the town of San Piero, we can continue by way of Gabbiano-Sant’Agata<br />

or by way of the local itinerary that leads to<br />

Scarperia.<br />

Beyond the Giogo Pass, the new road (the present state road<br />

503 follows the same course) went down into the Santerno Valley<br />

and reached Firenzuola, the other “terranuova” founded<br />

by the Florentine Republic in 1332 precisely because of the new<br />

road which for centuries would channel pilgrims who came from<br />

the North and were headed to Rome. The route that we suggest,<br />

instead, broadly corresponds to the road to Bologna, which preceded<br />

that of the Giogo Pass and crossed the Apennines at the<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass and, albeit via a longer route, also reaches<br />

Firenzuola and the Santerno Valley.<br />

Then from Scarperia we pass through Magognano (near which is<br />

the 14 th -century Franciscan convent of San Bonaventura in Bosco<br />

ai Frati with its wooden crucifix from the school of Donatello) and<br />

Gabbiano and return to the main itinerary that leads to the village<br />

of Sant’Agata, built around the homonymous parish church, a<br />

beautiful Romanesque church with a nave and two aisles divided<br />

by tall circular pillars that directly support the wooden frame of<br />

the roof, as in the hallenkirchen in northern countries.<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Sanctuary of Monte Senario<br />

3.6 km<br />

Time: 55’<br />

Buonsollazzo Abbey<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h05’<br />

Tagliaferro<br />

2.7 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Castle of Trebbio<br />

2.8 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Fortress of San Martino<br />

1 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

8.6 km<br />

Time: 2h25’


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

San Piero a Sieve was the first major town encountered on this<br />

road. An ancient market town recorded as early as the 12 th century,<br />

San Piero rose at the point where the road crossed the Sieve<br />

River and, like all river-crossing settlements, had many commercial<br />

(inns, hotels) and charitable accommodation structures. Among<br />

the latter were the hospice of San Piero a Sieve, which is first recorded<br />

in 1184 and the hospice of San Jacopo a Novoli, documented<br />

in 1335. The first is now the oratory of the brotherhood<br />

placed before the Parish Church of San Piero a Sieve on whose<br />

counter-façade is an inscription that refers to the reconstruction<br />

of the hospice carried out in 1275 by a Magister Panicia commissioned<br />

by Gianibuonus.<br />

IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

Notes along the Via Bolognese<br />

An anonymous Florentine pilgrim, who went on pilgrimage to<br />

Santiago de Compostela in 1477, thus describes the first part of<br />

the Via Bolognese: “...at first we left Florence, a beautiful and<br />

noble City, well populated and full of artists; the first waypoint is<br />

five miles away in Ucciellatoio. Outside the aforementioned City,<br />

there is an inn called the Ucciellatoio. From there, one reaches<br />

Vaglia, which has many houses and two inns. San Piero a Sieve,<br />

many houses and three inns”.<br />

157<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Castle of Trebbio<br />

Built around the mid-15 th century by Michelozzo at the behest of<br />

Cosimo de’ Medici, mainly for agricultural purposes, it was used<br />

as a hunting residence by the Medici. A 15 th -century Medici coatof-arms<br />

is visible at one of the entrances and there is an ancient<br />

well in the courtyard. The current garden is the result of several<br />

modifications: the only element remaining from the Renaissance<br />

is the grape-vine pergola. A recent garden – partly formal, with<br />

boxwood and roses, and partly informal, with various species of<br />

trees and shrubs and a rock garden – surrounds the castle and, in<br />

turn, is surrounded by thick rows of cypress.


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

Leg 3, Local Itineraries:<br />

LAKE BILANCINO<br />

CAFAGGIOLO SCARPERIA<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Cafaccio<br />

Santa Maria<br />

Gabbiano<br />

Scarperia<br />

Lake Bilancino<br />

Mogognano<br />

Castle of<br />

Cafaggiolo<br />

LOCAL<br />

ITINERARY<br />

LOCAL ITINERARY<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

Castle of Trebbio<br />

Ischieti<br />

Casenuove<br />

Tagliaferro<br />

Campomigliaio<br />

MAIN<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Abbey of Buonsollazzo<br />

158<br />

Vaglia<br />

Il Trebbio<br />

Sanctuary<br />

of Monte Senario<br />

Castle of Cafaggiolo, San Piero a Sieve


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Descent: m 160<br />

Distance: km 8.5<br />

Travel time: 2h05’<br />

The itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part on<br />

asphalt roads. The route is well marked.<br />

The tour begins in Trebbio and then heads northwards towards San Giovanni.<br />

Take the right fork a little after a tabernacle at the curve. Continue on Via Trebbio<br />

until it intersects with the asphalted Via San Giovanni in Petroio. We take<br />

the right branch of Via San Giovanni in Petroio and we continue until the junction<br />

with Via G. Nencini. We then head east along the lake, passing through a<br />

tunnel with a bike path until we reach Futa state road 65. We turn right towards<br />

Cafaggiolo. Then we proceed on SR (regional road) 65 towards San Piero a<br />

Sieve until we reach Via Ischieti where we take up the main itinerary again.<br />

To be seen:<br />

Lake Bilancino<br />

The exterior of the castle of Cafaggiolo<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 60<br />

Distance: km 8.4<br />

Travel time: 2h15’<br />

Also this itinerary takes place almost exclusively on dirt roads, with a small part<br />

on asphalt roads with a well-marked route.<br />

The local itinerary to Scarperia starts from San Piero a Sieve heading north<br />

along SP (provincial road) 503. After the bridge over the Sieve River, we turn<br />

right along SP 551 which we follow for about 700 m. Then we turn left into<br />

Via di Fagna, continuing until we come to the homonymous church. From<br />

there, we continue, heading north as far as the junction with SP 503. Turn right<br />

and enter the village of Scarperia. At the crossroads with Via dell’Azzurro, turn<br />

left and go in the direction of Mogognano, skirting the Golf Club dei Medici<br />

as far as the intersection with Via di Gabbiano where we go north to re-join<br />

the main itinerary.<br />

159<br />

Transport:<br />

Scarperia<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

To be seen:<br />

Parish Church of Fagna<br />

Village of Scarperia<br />

Palazzo dei Vicari, Museum of Cutting Tools (Scarperia)


Modern pilgrims along the way<br />

160<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries


NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />

Lake Bilancino<br />

The itinerary from Trebbio Castle heads northwest, passing from<br />

Lake Bilancino near the beaches of Nebbiaia and Sodera, to then<br />

reconnect with the main itinerary in front of Villa Cafaggiolo. Lake<br />

Bilancino is a reservoir of over five square kilometers with about<br />

a 30-km perimeter, formed by a dam whose purpose is to reduce<br />

the risk of flooding (especially for Florence) and to ensure a supply<br />

of drinking water for the valley. The reservoir also produces<br />

electricity. Additionally, in the broad area surrounding the lake,<br />

tourism has been promoted thanks to the recreational activities<br />

offered by the lake, bathing establishment services, sailing, canoeing,<br />

windsurfing, hiking, and hospitality (restaurants, hotels,<br />

and camping sites).<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Cafaggiolo<br />

After passing near Lake Bilancino in the direction of San Piero<br />

a Sieve, we come to the Medicean villa or castle of Cafaggiolo,<br />

which is among those most closely tied to the history of the Medici<br />

family. It was a favorite of Lorenzo the Magnificent who went<br />

there to hunt and it is where he composed the poem “Nencia da<br />

Barberino”, dedicated to a young peasant woman from the area.<br />

The building had belonged to the family since the middle of the<br />

14 th century, and was renovated after 1428 by Michelozzo who<br />

had been commissioned by Cosimo the Elder. In 1864 it was sold<br />

to the Borghese princes who made radical changes to it.<br />

161<br />

Castello di Cafaggiolo


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Scarperia<br />

Scarperia’s original name was Castel Santo Barnaba; it was one<br />

of the first “terrenuove”, or new cities, created by the Florentine<br />

Republic at the beginning of the 14 th century so as to overcome<br />

the last feudal resistance in the Mugello and, at the same time, to<br />

impose the new route of the Via per Bologna that passed through<br />

the Giogo Pass. Inside this “terranuova” several inns were built– a<br />

good twelve were counted at the end of the 14 th century – and two<br />

hospices at the border of the town (the hospice of Sopra and the<br />

hospice of Sotto) as well as that of the Compagnia della Vergine.<br />

Palazzo Pretorio in Scarperia<br />

162


Centuries-old chestnut tree<br />

163<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - Leg 3, Local Itineraries


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

Leg 4:<br />

SANT’AGATA<br />

FIRENZUOLA<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Cornacchiaia<br />

Cerro<br />

Roncopiano<br />

Pian de Grilli<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

Riarsiccio<br />

Marcoiano<br />

164<br />

Campisano<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 3<br />

A stretch along the way


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Riarsiccio, Osteria Bruciata Pass, Cornacchiaia<br />

Level of technical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

Climb: m 670<br />

Distance: km 17.5<br />

Travel time: 5h45’<br />

The leg goes along dirt roads and trails. The itinerary is generally well-marked,<br />

although in some places, the presence of multiple signs may make orientation<br />

difficult. The first part of the leg is characterized by a landscape of mixed broadleaf<br />

woods that continue as far as the beech tree-lined meadows of the Osteria<br />

Bruciata Pass. We continue along the ridges in the beech and chestnut woods<br />

that alternate with gullies and shrubby areas dominated by broom and juniper.<br />

Note: The leg requires good physical training, especially as regards climbs.<br />

There is a short detour from the main itinerary near Faeto (Parish church of<br />

Cornacchiaia) to visit the small village of Cornacchiaia.<br />

Transport:<br />

Scarperia<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Cornacchiaia<br />

To be seen:<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista Decollato a Cornacchiaia<br />

Firenzuola Basin, Site of Community Importance<br />

Fiorenzuola Fortress<br />

Firenzuola Museum of Pietra Serena<br />

165<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


NATURE AND LANDSCAPE<br />

The Firenzuola Basin<br />

The Firenzuola Basin is one of the most important areas at a regional<br />

level for the conservation of many endangered species of<br />

birds linked to the traditional agricultural environments (the Ortolan<br />

Bunting, Tawny Pipit, and Quail). Many species of birds of prey<br />

hunt in this area and some of them nest nearby. There are some<br />

watercourses with low shrubs along the banks mainly consisting<br />

of Hippophae rhamnoides, sub-species fluviatilis, which are home<br />

to native fish species typical of unpolluted environments. Of note<br />

among the mammals are the wolf, the wild boar, and the red<br />

squirrel, while among invertebrates, the Callimorpha quadripunctaria<br />

Moth.<br />

This is an area based upon traditional agriculture and rearing of<br />

sheep, whose preservation is dependent on the promotion of adequate<br />

land management plans and policies.<br />

Firenzuola Basin<br />

166


From Sant’Agata, we take the road to Montepoli where a CAI trail<br />

begins that takes us to the Osteria Bruciata Pass, near which<br />

stood the hospice of San Niccolò a Fontemanzina. Although<br />

nothing remains of it today, it was built in 1221 on the public<br />

road to Florence by Berlinghiero di Girolamo and his partner Mannello<br />

de’Galli, two influential figures, both related to the Franciscan<br />

movement. After crossing the pass, the CAI trail continues<br />

towards the bottom of the Santerno Valley, passing through the<br />

town of Faeto and arriving in the village of Cornacchiaia, which<br />

grew up around a rural church too: the Romanesque Parish<br />

Church of San Giovanni Battista, which not by chance recalls<br />

the architectural structure of the parish church of Sant’Agata.<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Agata<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4<br />

167<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

8.6 km<br />

Time: 3h30’<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

San Niccolò in Fontemanzina<br />

4 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Cornacchiaia<br />

4.9 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Firenzuola<br />

www.vieromee.it


From Cornacchiaia, proceeding along the Santerno, we reach<br />

Firenzuola, a village that was full of inns and hostels and had<br />

the two hospices of San Giacomo and of San Francesco.<br />

Other charitable structures ad hospitalitatem et receptionem<br />

pauperum were in prope terram de Firenzuola – as more or less<br />

in all the villages on the road to Bologna where some, albeit<br />

modest, accommodation structures could be found.<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista in Cornacchiaia<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 4<br />

168<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

8.6 km<br />

Time: 3h30’<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

San Niccolò in Fontemanzina<br />

4 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Cornacchiaia<br />

4.9 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Firenzuola


Porta Bolognese in Firenzuola<br />

169


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

Leg 5:<br />

FIRENZUOLA<br />

COVIGLIAIO<br />

Pietramala<br />

La Castellaccia<br />

La Sela<br />

La Badia<br />

Pagliana<br />

Le Valli<br />

Covigliaio<br />

LEG 4 to<br />

Futa Pass<br />

see page 174<br />

Cagliabati<br />

Riccianico<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 4<br />

Sassiglioni<br />

Capanna<br />

170<br />

A stretch along the itinerary


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Le Valli, Pietramala<br />

Level of technical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 600<br />

Distance: km 13.8<br />

Travel time: 5h<br />

The leg goes along dirt roads and paths. The route is well marked.<br />

Note: Although not long, in this leg there are climbs that require good physical<br />

training. In Pietramala, it is possible to join up again with the paths that lead<br />

to Emilia Romagna, or to continue along our itinerary towards the Futa Pass.<br />

Transport:<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Pietramala<br />

171<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


Our route avoids state road 503 and from Firenzuola, along<br />

an internal route, it reaches Le Valli, previously the site of a<br />

small pilgrims’ hospice. Then passing through the villages of<br />

Boschetto and Baccanella (the place name of the latter is significant!),<br />

we reach the state road in Pietramala, a place where<br />

the existence of a hospice dedicated to San Lorenzo has been<br />

documented since 1256.<br />

Beyond Pietramala, the road continues towards Radicosa Pass,<br />

then goes down into the valley of the Savena river and heads<br />

towards Bologna. Having remained almost unchanged for<br />

centuries, the route is the one identified in the “Liber de stratis<br />

magistris Comunis Bononie“ (1289) as “strata per quam itur<br />

Florenciam a terra Sancti Rofilli (Saint Ruffillo) usque ad terram<br />

Predamale (Pietramala)”.<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 5<br />

Instead, our itinerary takes us back to Sant’Agata di Mugello, but<br />

along a different route from the one used on the outward journey.<br />

It therefore takes us to Covigliaio, a village on state road 65.<br />

CAI sign along the route<br />

172<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Firenzuola<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

Le Valli<br />

4.5 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Pietramala<br />

5 km<br />

Time: 1h40’<br />

Covigliaio


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Pietramala<br />

The border between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal<br />

States was near Pietramala: the “terra” of Pietramala was the border<br />

customs seat and a stopping point for travelers.<br />

All 18 th - and 19 th -century guides for travelers mention the pseudo-volcanic<br />

phenomena in the area, particularly the emissions of<br />

methane and the gush of oil. The first are described as follows:<br />

“Just a half mile from Pietramala ... a small, active Volcano is seen.<br />

A clear flame rises from the surface of the earth that spans a<br />

space of 12 to 15 feet on all sides. When the weather is rainy, or<br />

threatening to storm, the flame becomes more active”. Regarding<br />

the oil, it is said that “It is also to be observed, half a league away<br />

from Pietramala, a cold water spring, called Acqua Baja, which<br />

ignites if one approaches with a torch” (“Itinerario Italiano che<br />

contiene la descrizione dei viaggi per le strade più frequentate”,<br />

Firenze 1807, pp.21 and 22).<br />

A stretch along the crest of the Apennines<br />

173


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

Leg 6<br />

COVIGLIAIO<br />

FUTA PASS<br />

Cà di Patisci<br />

Cà degli Arrighi<br />

Fratte<br />

Belvedere<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Casellina<br />

Continuing of LEG 4<br />

see page 170<br />

Selva<br />

Traversa<br />

L’Erede<br />

Monteritroni<br />

174<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Stretch along the itinerary


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Cà degli Arrighi<br />

Level of technical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />

Climb: m 440<br />

Distance: km 10.4<br />

Travel time: 3h45’<br />

This leg goes exclusively on trails. The route is well marked, with the exception<br />

of the stretch between Covigliaio and Passaggeri where good orientation skills<br />

are necessary and of which a particular description is given. This leg starts with<br />

a steep climb on a dirt road towards Colle di Covigliaio. After about 500 m.,<br />

we leave the road to enter a field where we easily go over a small fence. We<br />

continue climbing until we reach CAI Bo 019 and the CAI-Bo917- Sentiero degli<br />

Dei or trail of the Gods. At just over 1000 meters a.s.l., we have two alternative<br />

routes. The first heads south and is easier and less tiring; it is reached by turning<br />

left and following the signs for the SOFT11 route. The second goes north and is<br />

reached by turning right (CAI Bo 019/ Sentiero degli Dei CAI Bo-917 trails) but is<br />

not well-marked. The latter descends to the Savena river and then climbs again<br />

towards Passeggeri-Ca’ degli Arrighi.<br />

Note: Although it is not a long leg, the climbs require proper physical training.<br />

Transport:<br />

Pietramala (also towards Emilia Romagna)<br />

Futa Pass<br />

To be seen:<br />

Roman stone-paving<br />

Futa Pass<br />

The Gothic Line – Futa Pass<br />

175<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


ARCHEOLOGY<br />

Via Flaminia Minor<br />

Approximately 3 kms north of the Futa Pass, a long, straight<br />

stretch of a perfectly preserved stone-paved Roman road has been<br />

brought to light. Located at the foot of Monte Poggione, it is<br />

related to the road called by scholars Flaminia Minor or Flaminia<br />

Militare, a road that was opened in 187 B.C. by Consul Flaminius<br />

to connect Bononia [Bologna] with Arretium [Arezzo], presumably<br />

passing by Fiesole.<br />

The find is part of a series of archeological discoveries that have<br />

allowed the ancient road’s route to be reconstructed; it is to be<br />

considered, somewhat, the forerunner of the medieval road that<br />

connected Florence and Bologna, although its route was, at least<br />

to some extent, different, even if they both ran beyond the Apennine<br />

ridge into the Savena Valley.<br />

Roman paving of the Via Flaminia Minor<br />

176


From the small town of Covigliaio, we head towards the Futa<br />

Pass, the pass in the Apennines that replaced the Giogo Pass<br />

in modern times and forced a change on the route to Bologna<br />

by abandoning the Scarperia-Firenzuola direction in favor of the<br />

route through Barberino di Mugello.<br />

Signs along the route<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 6<br />

177<br />

Covigliaio<br />

4.7 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Cà degli Arrighi<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Futa Pass<br />

www.vieromee.it


4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

SANT’AGATA<br />

Starting point of LEG5<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Roncopiano<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

Castello<br />

Riarsiccio<br />

Marcoiano<br />

Campisano<br />

178<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Signs along the route


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass, Riarsiccio<br />

Level of technical difficulty: E<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Difficult<br />

Climb: m 375<br />

Distance: km 13.4<br />

Travel time: 4h15’<br />

The leg goes almost exclusively along trails and partly on dirt roads.<br />

The route is well identified thanks to CAI signs.<br />

Note: The stretch from the Osteria Bruciata Pass to Sant’Agata retraces backwards<br />

the route of Leg 4. We follow a short section of SP 116 in a southerly<br />

direction and then get on the CAI path 00/GEA. We walk for about 5 km in the<br />

direction of the Osteria Bruciata Pass, crossing Monte Gazzaro and going past<br />

the junction for Paracchia. From the Osteria Bruciata Pass, we head south, following<br />

the signs for the CAI paths 46A and SoFT 13 in the direction of Monte<br />

Linari and Monte Alto. After approximately 3.5 km along the ridge, we begin<br />

the descent towards Montepoli and Sant’Agata.<br />

Transport:<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Scarperia<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

179<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1 Leg 2 Leg 3<br />

Porta San Gallo Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario<br />

Ceppeto Sanct. of M. Senario Sant’Agata<br />

Leg 4<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Leg 5<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Leg 6<br />

Covigliaio<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Leg 7<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Sant’Agata


To reach Sant’Agata from the Futa Pass, we follow a route that<br />

passes through the old Apennine pass of Osteria Bruciata,<br />

whose name is derived from the existence at this site of a hostel,<br />

later abandoned because of the decline in traffic due to the preference<br />

given to the route through the Giogo Pass.<br />

The mule track that we follow to go to Sant’Agata retraces,<br />

with all probability, the original 13 th -century road to Bologna that<br />

crossed the Osteria Bruciata Pass and then descended towards<br />

Cornacchiaia. The decline of the route is somehow connected<br />

to the grim story, handed down orally, that tells of a landlord<br />

who used to rob and kill travelers going through the pass, and<br />

whose flesh he served to be eaten by the unsuspecting patrons<br />

of his inn.<br />

4 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA BOLOGNESE - LEG 7<br />

Trail along the route<br />

180<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Futa Pass<br />

4.8 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Osteria Bruciata Pass<br />

2.8 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Riarsiccio<br />

5.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Sant’Agata


HOSPITALITY<br />

Osteria Bruciata<br />

From a geographical point of view, the best place to cross the<br />

Apennine ridge between Sant’Agata and Cornacchiaia is the Osteria<br />

Bruciata Pass. It is obvious that the original road between<br />

Bologna and Florence, that naturally was not a carriageable road,<br />

passed from there. Already at the time of the first Jubilee, in fact,<br />

a Bolognese “provision “ from 19 October 1300 described the<br />

road as rundown and with evidence of frequent landslides (“full<br />

of gullies and very devastated”), for which the City of Bologna set<br />

out to perform road restoration works that would facilitate the<br />

passage of pilgrims.<br />

It is thanks to Daniele Sterpos’s discovery of a 1585 document<br />

that we have a sketch which depicts a small hospice – abandoned<br />

but still standing – situated with a road passing in front, right at<br />

the pass (D. Sterpos, Comunicazioni stradali attraverso i tempi.<br />

Bologna-Firenze, Novara 1961, p.44).<br />

Towards Osteria Bruciata<br />

181


ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />

182<br />

Ceppeto Monte Morello<br />

Casa Fontecchio B&B<br />

Via delle Palaie, 13<br />

Ceppeto<br />

50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Tel: 055495137<br />

Fax: 055495137<br />

Cell: 3382991304<br />

Meini Roberta Affittacamere<br />

Viale Pescetti, 9<br />

Ceppeto<br />

50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Tel: 055 402066 - Fax: 055 402066<br />

Montemorello Albergo<br />

Via Miramonti, 40 – 42<br />

Ceppeto<br />

50019 Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Tel: 055 402064<br />

Monte Senario<br />

Campeggio Poggio degli Uccellini<br />

Via Poggio Uccellini, 1050<br />

Bivigliano<br />

50030 Vaglia<br />

Tel: 055 406725 - Fax: 055 406725<br />

poggio.uccellini@virgilio.it<br />

www.poggiouccellini.it<br />

One hour distance on foot<br />

from Monte Senario<br />

Casa di Spritualità Suore Serve di Maria<br />

Addolorata<br />

Via della Fittaccia, 153<br />

Bivigliano<br />

50030 Vaglia<br />

Tel: 055 406718<br />

A half-hour walk<br />

Convento di Monte Senario<br />

Via di Monte Senario, 34<br />

Bivigliano<br />

50030 Vaglia<br />

Tel: parish priest 055 406441<br />

055 406442<br />

La Bruna Albergo<br />

Via della Fittaccia, 5<br />

Bivigliano<br />

50030 Vaglia<br />

Tel: 055 406614<br />

da_ma2005@katamail.com<br />

Sant’Agata di Mugello<br />

Agriturismo Catelaccio<br />

Via Montepoli, 11/E<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

50038 Scarperia<br />

Tel: 055 8406624<br />

Cell. 338 2842883 - Fax: 055 8406624<br />

catelaccio@libero.it<br />

Il Colle B&B<br />

Via Montaccianico, 52<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

50038 Scarperia<br />

Tel: 055 8406752<br />

Fax: 055 8406752<br />

Cell: 333 4507718<br />

fabrizio.rossi56@virgilio.it<br />

Parrocchia Sant’Agata<br />

Piazza della Libertà, 1<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

50038 Scarperia<br />

Tel: parish priest 055 8406926<br />

Pieve S. Agata Foresteria della Canonica<br />

Via della Pieve, 3<br />

Sant’Agata<br />

50038 Scarperia<br />

Tel: 055 8406926<br />

Cornacchiaia<br />

Azienda agrituristico/venatoria Rovignale<br />

Via Castro Rovignale, 492/A<br />

Campiglia<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 8149297<br />

Cell. 3332429344<br />

0.9 km from Faeto - Cornacchiaia<br />

Le Tarelle Agriturismo<br />

Via Castro Futa, 699/A<br />

Roncopiano<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 813523 - Fax: 055813523<br />

Cell: 339 1586047<br />

meniso@tiscali.it<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Albergo Acconci<br />

Piazza Agnolo, 18<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel. 055 819053 - Fax 055 8199203<br />

aracconci@tiscali.it<br />

www.acconci.it<br />

Albergo Berti<br />

Via Traversa, 351<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055815265 - 055815270<br />

Fax: 055 815270<br />

Albergo Iolanda<br />

Via Imolese, 16<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 819020<br />

B&B Il Nuovo Cacciatori<br />

Piazza Agnolo, 5<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 8109009 - Fax: 055 8109009


Pietramala - Covigliaio<br />

Albergo Montefreddi<br />

Via Montefreddi<br />

Pietramala - Cà di Barba<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 347 9925090<br />

www.montefreddi.it<br />

B&B La vecchia scuola<br />

Loc. Covigliaio - Cerretino, 7 – Pietramala<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 812251<br />

Cell: 335 7068546<br />

Fax: 055 812251<br />

stefiric@libero.it<br />

Hotel Ristorante Gualtieri<br />

Via Nazionale, 81 - Pietramala<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

La Casetta Agriturismo<br />

Covigliaio - Pietramala<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 812038<br />

Fax: 055 8154914<br />

4.5 km South-West of Pietramala<br />

Futa Pass<br />

Campeggio La Futa<br />

Via Bruscoli, 889/H - Futa Pass<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 328 9248746 - Cell: 333 1148501<br />

Fax: 055 815297<br />

info@campinglafuta.it<br />

www.campinglafuta.it<br />

Futa Pass Albergo<br />

Via San Jacopo a Castro, 57 - La Futa<br />

50033 Firenzuola<br />

Tel: 055 815255<br />

www.passodellafuta.it<br />

APT Municipality of Barberino del Mugello<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Via del Lago, 33<br />

Loc. I Boschi 50031<br />

Barberino del Mugello<br />

Near the A1 motoway<br />

Barberino di Mugello exit<br />

Tel and Fax: 055 8420106<br />

www.comune.barberino-di-mugello.fi.it<br />

www.mugellotoscana.it<br />

barberinomugello@firenzeturismo.it<br />

Hours: every day 10 a.m.-7 p.m.<br />

Borgo San Lorenzo<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Villa Pecori Giraldi at<br />

Museo della Manifattura Chini<br />

Piazzale Lavacchini 1 - 50032<br />

Tel: 055 8456230 - 055 84527186<br />

Fax: 055 8456230 - 055 8456288<br />

www.mugellotoscana.it<br />

www.villapecori.it<br />

info@villapecori.it<br />

turismo@cm-mugello.fi.it<br />

Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m.<br />

Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3<br />

p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Comunità Montana Mugello<br />

Via P. Togliatti 45<br />

Sede operativa at<br />

Villa Pecori Giraldi - 50032<br />

Tel: 055 84527185-6<br />

Fax: 055 8456288<br />

www.mugellotoscana.it<br />

turismo@cm-mugello.fi.it<br />

Hours: every day 10 a.m.-1 p.m.<br />

Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays also 3<br />

p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 3 p.m.-6 p.m.<br />

183<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

U.R.P. Municipality of San Piero a Sieve<br />

Piazzetta del Comune, 1<br />

50037 San Piero a Sieve (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8487536 - Fax: 055 848432<br />

www.mugellotoscana.it<br />

www.comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi.it<br />

urp@comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Saturday 9 a.m.-<br />

1 p.m.; Thursday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3<br />

p.m.-6 p.m<br />

Town hall of Firenzuola<br />

Tourist information<br />

Piazza Don Stefano Casini, 1<br />

50054 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8199460<br />

www.firenzuolaturismo.it<br />

info@firenzuolaturismo.it<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Municipality of Vaglia<br />

At the ticket office of Villa Demidoff<br />

Pratolino - Vaglia<br />

Tel: 055 409784<br />

turismovaglia@virgilio.it<br />

Opening: 15 July - 15 September<br />

Thursdays and Fridays: 4 p.m.-6 p.m.;<br />

Saturdays and Sundays: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Palazzo ex Pretura<br />

Piazza Agnolo, 15<br />

50033 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />

At the Library and at the Pro Loco (support)<br />

biblioteca@comune.firenzuola.fi.it<br />

Tel: 055 8199434/5 - 055 8199007<br />

Fax: 055 819366<br />

Winter hours: Mondays 2 p.m.-4 p.m.<br />

and Saturdays 10 a.m.-12 p.m.


184<br />

Summer hours: Monday - Thursday 10<br />

a.m.-12 p.m. / 3 p.m.-5 p.m.; Saturdays<br />

and Sundays 10 a.m.-12 p.m.<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

of the Municipality of Firenzuola<br />

Via SS. Annunziata, 4<br />

50033 Firenzuola (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8199459<br />

Fax: 055 8109856<br />

www.firenzuolaturismo.it<br />

f.mazzoni@comune.firenzuola.fi.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Saturday 8.30<br />

a.m.-12.30 p.m.; Mondays and Thursdays<br />

also 3 p.m.-5 p.m.<br />

At the Library of the Municipality<br />

of San Piero a Sieve<br />

Piazza Medici - 50037<br />

Tel: 055 8487528<br />

Fax: 055 848432<br />

bibliosp@internetlibero.it<br />

Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 3<br />

p.m.-7 p.m.; Thursdays 9 a.m.-12 p.m./3<br />

p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; 1st<br />

and 3rd Mondays of each month 3 p.m.-<br />

10 p.m.<br />

Pro Loco Scarperia<br />

Palazzo dei Vicari<br />

Piazza dei Vicari, 1<br />

50038 Scarperia (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8468165<br />

Fax: 055 8468862<br />

www.prolocoscarperia.com<br />

www.mugellotoscana.it<br />

prolocoscarperia@virgilio.it<br />

Hours (from 25 May to 14 September):<br />

From Monday to Friday 9 a.m.-1 p.m.;<br />

Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays also<br />

15 p.m.-7.30 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays<br />

10 a.m.-1 p.m./3 p.m.-7.30 p.m.;<br />

(from 15 September to 24 May): From<br />

Wednesday to Sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m.;<br />

Saturdays and Sundays 3 p.m.-6.30 p.m.<br />

Firenzuola<br />

Dal Bosco e dalla Pietra (October)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />

Battista (24 June)<br />

San Piero a Sieve<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, San Pietro<br />

and Paolo (June)<br />

Palio della Fortezza (last week-end in<br />

May or first in June)<br />

Scarperia<br />

Feast of Diotto<br />

(first week in September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Jacopo and<br />

Filippo (3 May)<br />

Infiorata (24 May)<br />

Scarperia Sant’Agata di Mugello<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Agata<br />

(1 February)<br />

Sesto Fiorentino<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Martino<br />

(11 November)<br />

Sesto Fiorentino Chiesa di Cercina<br />

Feast of Sant’Antonio abate and blessing<br />

of animals (18 January)<br />

Events and fairs<br />

Barberino di Mugello<br />

Canta’ Maggio (May)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint , San Silvestro<br />

(31 December)<br />

Borgo San Lorenzo<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo<br />

(10 August)<br />

Fiesole<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />

(6 July)<br />

Feast of San Francesco<br />

(first Sunday in October)


5 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA VECCHIA<br />

ARETINA<br />

The itinerary to Loreto<br />

185<br />

The Via dell’Alpe di Serra was a pilgrim route to Rome that had<br />

been known since the early Middle Ages and one that was considered<br />

preferable even to the Via Francigena by a documentary<br />

source like the Annales Stadenses from the mid-13 th century. The<br />

route started from the Via Emilia, with tracks fanning out between<br />

Bologna and Forlì, it reached Bagno di Romagna going up<br />

the Bidente Valley and then crossed the Apennines at the Alpe di<br />

Serra Pass – from which its name is derived – today abandoned<br />

in favor of the Mandrioli Pass. It then unwound in the Casentino<br />

basin, running parallel to the initial course of the Arno and then<br />

reached Arezzo to continue on to Rome, crossing the Val di Chiana<br />

and afterwards, the Val Tiberina.


5 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

The itinerary to Loreto<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Quarata<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

186<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

400<br />

350<br />

300<br />

250<br />

200<br />

150<br />

100<br />

50<br />

00<br />

Starting Point: Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Elevation gain:<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Detour to Via dell’Albereta<br />

Junction with detour to Via dell’Albereta<br />

Bandella Reserve<br />

Montincello - junction with Setteponti road<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />

Junction with SP1


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 78.9<br />

Distance (local itinerary): km 14.9<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Miniato (Florence) – Troghi<br />

Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina<br />

Distance: km 13.7<br />

Page 192<br />

Leg 1, Local Itineraries:<br />

Bigallo – Incontro – Villamagna<br />

Waypoints: Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo,<br />

Poggio Terra Bianca, Arco del Camicia<br />

Distance: km 14.9<br />

Page 198<br />

Bigallo – Antella – Santa Caterina<br />

Waypoints: Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia<br />

Distance: km 10.3<br />

Page 198<br />

Leg 2: Troghi – Figline Valdarno<br />

Waypoints: Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />

Distance: km17.5<br />

Page 204<br />

Leg 3: Figline Valdarno – Montevarchi<br />

Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Distance: km 17.6<br />

Page 212<br />

Leg 4: Montevarchi – Laterina<br />

Waypoints: Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti<br />

road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />

Distance: km 18.6<br />

Page 218<br />

Leg 5: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo)<br />

Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano<br />

Distance: km 11.5<br />

Page 222<br />

Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Distance: km 5.5<br />

187<br />

This tourist-style itinerary unwinds primarily on asphalt roads and partially on<br />

dirt ones. The route is very clearly marked and presents no orientation difficulties.<br />

Only the first leg has a significant climb (370 m), whereas there are no<br />

significant differences in elevation in the others. Once past Bagno a Ripoli, the<br />

landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as S. Donato in Collina.<br />

Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter deciduous woods<br />

outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated by cultivated<br />

fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation predominate near<br />

the path until returning to the wooded areas of the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />

Nature Reserve.<br />

Note: The route is characterized by lightly trafficked asphalt roads (70%), while<br />

the remainder is characterized by gravel and dirt road beds (30%).<br />

On foot, attention must be paid along those parts of the provincial and regional<br />

roads that lack sidewalks where the rules of the road must be respected. There<br />

are no problems with finding water. The last leg of the itinerary (from Laterina<br />

to Arezzo) coincides with the final leg of the Setteponti itinerary and includes a<br />

short stretch by bus (from Quarata to Arezzo).


5 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

The itinerary to Loreto<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Laterina<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

188<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of the Valdarno countryside


BIKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 84.4<br />

Level of technical difficulty: TC<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: From Porta San Miniato – Figline Valdarno<br />

Waypoints: Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina, Troghi, Le Valli, Palazzolo,<br />

Incisa in Val d’Arno - Distance: Km 31.2<br />

Page 192<br />

Leg 2: Figline Valdarno – Laterina<br />

Waypoints: San Giovanni Valdarno, Montevarchi, Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello<br />

(junction with Setteponti road), Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />

Distance: km 36.2<br />

Page 212<br />

Leg 3: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata<br />

Distance: km 17<br />

Page 222<br />

The tourist-style bike route is on asphalt and dirt roads. The dirt roads have<br />

smooth, compacted road beds, suitable for vehicles. The first leg is more demanding<br />

with a 370-m. climb that leads up to Troghi. Once past the town of<br />

Bagno a Ripoli, the landscape is characterized by terraced olive groves as far as<br />

S. Donato in Collina. Going down the hill towards the Valdarno, we encounter<br />

deciduous woods outside of the several villages and then a landscape dominated<br />

by cultivated fields. In the central Valdarno, crops and riparian vegetation<br />

predominate near the path until reaching the wooded Valle dell’Inferno and<br />

Bandella nature reserve.<br />

Note: There are a couple of legs along the route with moderately demanding<br />

climbs for which an appropriate physical training is recommended. The route<br />

is characterized by asphalt roads with little traffic (70%) and thus suitable for<br />

racing bikes, the remaining 30% is characterized by gravel and dirt, largely<br />

the Valdarno shared-use path, and therefore suitable for mountain and city<br />

bikes. The last leg (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds to the final leg of the<br />

Setteponti itinerary. Attention must be paid to vehicle traffic in the last stretch<br />

between Quarata and Arezzo.<br />

189<br />

The Ripoli abbey in an 18 th -century drawing


Arezzo: A Point of Convergence for <strong>Pilgrim</strong> Routes<br />

The first city encountered after crossing the Apennines was Arezzo,<br />

not only an important stopping place but also, because of its<br />

location, a point of convergence for the roads used by pilgrims<br />

coming from the populous neighboring valleys and primarily<br />

from the upper Valdarno.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

The Via dell’Alpe di Serra as a road to Rome must have been used<br />

even by pilgrims starting from Florence, who traveled on the road<br />

indicated in the 14 th -century Statuto del Capitano del Popolo as<br />

the “via et strata que summitur a porta seu Burgo Sancti Niccholai<br />

per quam itur in Vallem Arni”. It was a route that had<br />

developed following the Roman Via Cassia, and that unwound<br />

through the Upper Valdarno, keeping to the left of the Arno,<br />

and, once beyond the easy San Donato pass, crossed the Ripoli<br />

plain to arrive in Florence.<br />

In the Middle Ages, the route of the Roman road continued<br />

to serve its function, even if it had only local importance as it<br />

was no longer the favored route to Rome. It was used mainly<br />

for connections between Florence and Arezzo as it ran through<br />

the upper Valdarno. This was a particularly fertile area of the<br />

Florentine countryside – considered the city’s granary – that generated<br />

abundant traffic in the direction of the leading city. Not<br />

unexpectedly, large centers rose along this road and developed<br />

around markets (as, for example, Figline and Montevarchi). In the<br />

early 14 th century, the Florentine Republic founded one of its first<br />

“terrenuove”, Castel San Giovanni, so as to defeat the remaining<br />

feudal resistance and take full control of the territory.<br />

190<br />

The Shells of Saint James<br />

www.vieromee.it


The Ancient Accommodation<br />

and Charitable Structures<br />

Evidence of the concentration of travelers is confirmed by the<br />

numerous accommodation and charitable structures that dotted<br />

the road, concentrating in the main towns and villages. In the<br />

14 th century, a number of hostels and inns are documented along<br />

the itinerary, in Incisa, Figline, Tartigliese, San Giovanni and Montevarchi,<br />

that had no equal in all the Florentine countryside. It<br />

was the same as regards hospices, which mainly served pilgrims.<br />

The registers of papal tithes from the end of the 13 th century,<br />

that recorded only some of the many hospices that were found<br />

along the way, mention : the Hospice of Plano Alberti, located<br />

at the point where the “terranuova” of San Giovanni would<br />

soon rise, the Hospice of Ancisa and the Hospice of Avanella<br />

(Levanella). Yet we know from other sources that the hospices<br />

were much more numerous, especially in San Giovanni and Incisa,<br />

not to mention in Troghi (Sant’Antonio alle Staffe), La Ginestra<br />

(Sant’Angelo), and, above all, in Montevarchi and Figline. In<br />

addition, there was the large one that rose in L’Apparita, near<br />

Florence: the hospice of Fonteviva or Bigallo, first documented<br />

in 1214, as well as a whole series of small hospices that dotted<br />

the initial stretch of road between Florence and Bagno a Ripoli.<br />

Towards the Sanctuary of Loreto<br />

Between the 15 th and 16 th centuries, another important place of<br />

pilgrimage was added to the traditional peregrinationes of Western<br />

Christianity, the Sanctuary of Loreto, with a significant increase<br />

in the transit of pilgrims through the upper Valdarno. The road to<br />

Arezzo, in fact, became the starting route for all those who wished<br />

to travel from Florence to visit the Holy House in Loreto.<br />

Abundant documents – mostly from the 16 th and 17 th centuries<br />

– tell us about the route, with pilgrims stopping in the Florentine<br />

Valdarno, in Palazzolo or Troghi, then in Figline, Levanella and<br />

finally in Ponte a Buriano. The route went to Cortona through<br />

the Val di Chiana, and then headed towards Foligno, traveling<br />

by way of Perugia and Assisi. After crossing the Col Fiorito Pass,<br />

it continued in the Chienti valley, reaching Recanati and finally<br />

arriving in Loreto.<br />

191<br />

Along the way


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

Leg 1:<br />

PORTA SAN MINIATO (Florence)<br />

TROGHI<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

Candeli<br />

Villamagna<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 1<br />

Incontro<br />

Belvedere<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Santa Caterina<br />

Ponte Ema<br />

Antella<br />

San Frediano<br />

Bigallo<br />

Osteria Nuova<br />

LOCAL ITINERARY<br />

San Donato in Collina<br />

Troghi<br />

LEG 1 to<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

see page 204<br />

192<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from L’Apparita


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Bagno a Ripoli, Bigallo, San Donato in Collina<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 370<br />

Distance: km 13.7<br />

Travel time: 4h15’<br />

This tourist-style leg follows mostly asphalt and partly dirt roads (along the<br />

Albereta bike path). It is clearly marked and does not present any difficulties<br />

or orientation problems. The stretch from Bagno a Ripoli to San Donato in<br />

Collina is demanding with 370-m. elevation gain. Immediately after Bagno<br />

a Ripoli, the route follows SP1, which offers fine views over the city and the<br />

typical hilly landscape.<br />

Note: Water and refreshments are available along this leg at many points in the<br />

villages outside of Florence. In the city, we advise pedestrians to take the alternative<br />

route on the Varlungo inside the Albereta Park. The road leads us to the<br />

Antique Hospice of Bigallo, where an intermediate stopover can be made, and<br />

from which two day-long itineraries can be followed to discover the historical<br />

and architectural heritage in the hills of Bagno a Ripoli.<br />

Transport:<br />

Florence<br />

San Donato in Collina<br />

Troghi<br />

To be seen:<br />

Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />

Hospice of Bigallo<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence from “L’Apparita”<br />

193<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

Troghi<br />

Leg 2<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Leg 3<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Leg 4<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 5<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


The route that begins our itinerary starts from Porta San Miniato.<br />

From here we go along a stretch of Via San Miniato and<br />

enter Via San Niccolò that then leads us to the point where the<br />

medieval road began: the current Piazza Poggi, dominated by<br />

the turreted Porta San Niccolo, the only city gate in Florence’s<br />

13 th -century walls that has maintained its original elevation.<br />

From Piazza Poggi, we take Via della Fornace until it connects to<br />

Via Ser Ventura Monachi. This runs into Via dei Bastioni and then<br />

intersects the 19 th - century Viale Michelangelo.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

The Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli has kept its original<br />

Romanesque look; it has a basilican plan with three aisles separated<br />

by square pillars and by two recycled marble columns at the<br />

presbytery. A semicircular apse ends the building, which is covered<br />

with the traditional wooden trusses. Next to the church is a simple<br />

Romanesque bell tower while the elegant portico, that rests<br />

against the façade, is ascribable to the 14 th century and is set on<br />

octagonal pillars. The parish church by now merges with the first<br />

houses of Bagno a Ripoli, a modern-looking town whose considerable<br />

antiquity is, nevertheless, confirmed by the archaeological<br />

site located between Via della Nave and the new Piazza della Pace.<br />

There are remains of buildings from the Imperial age (1 st -4 th centuries<br />

A.D.), perhaps thermae, and a large cistern in opus reticulatum.<br />

Rising on the ancient Via Cassia, Bagno a Ripoli is the successor<br />

to the ancient town of Ripulae, whose name derived from the<br />

river banks (ripae) that prevented the Arno from flooding the plain.<br />

194<br />

The parish church of Ripoli


We cross the street and go along Via C. Marsuppini that passes<br />

in front of the Chiesa di Santa Maria a Ricorboli, first constructed<br />

in the 14 th century, but completely rebuilt in the early<br />

years of the last century. Inside is the so-called Madonna of the<br />

Refuge by a master from the school of Giotto (1335), an object<br />

of great veneration by pilgrims and travelers, who would turn to<br />

the Madonna to ask for heavenly protection along the trip that<br />

awaited them.<br />

We continue past the church on Via Coluccio Salutati until the<br />

intersection with Via di Ripoli on which we continue. We are<br />

in what were once the Florentine suburbs, dotted with elegant<br />

villas, as can still be seen with Villa Rusciano and Villa del Merlo<br />

Bianco, located along the route. In the past, the first accommodation<br />

and charitable structures would have been found in this<br />

stretch, their existence confirmed not only by documents but<br />

also by the towns’ very names: a hospice was where the Gualandi<br />

Institute stands today at Via di Ripoli 82, other hospices<br />

were in Bandino and Spedaluzzo, and an inn in Albergaccio.<br />

Continuing along Via di Ripoli, a little after Spedaluzzo, we find<br />

the Vallombrosan Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli, that,<br />

marked by a great simplicity, has preserved its original Romanesque<br />

architectural features as well as a 14 th -century cloister. The<br />

church has a single nave with a crypt under the presbytery and<br />

a small loggia on the front that was added at a later period.<br />

Because of its location on an important artery, the abbey served<br />

as a hospitium, as testified by an inscription on the door leading<br />

to the cloister: “hospes eram et suscepistis me venite benedicti”.<br />

An alternative route starting from Via di Ripoli arrives in Piazza<br />

Ravenna by way of Via Poggio Bracciolini, where we can enter<br />

Via dell’Albereta. This is a pedestrian-only street that runs along<br />

the Arno River and goes as far as Via del Bisarno. From here,<br />

going on Via della Lame and then on Via della Badia a Ripoli, we<br />

can also reach the ancient Vallombrosan abbey.<br />

The road then enters the town of Bagno a Ripoli, here its name<br />

changes and becomes Via Roma, and we find the Parish Church<br />

of San Pietro a Ripoli.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1<br />

195<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />

1 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />

1 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo<br />

3 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

San Donato in Collina<br />

3.7 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Troghi<br />

www.vieromee.it


Back to Bagno a Ripoli and passing the ancient Tabernacle of the<br />

Podestà, we follow the Via Vecchia Aretina on a steep downhill<br />

stretch until we reach Varliano where the Oratory of Santa<br />

Croce rises. Built in the second half of the 13 th century, the little<br />

church has Romanesque-Gothic features: a single nave divided<br />

into three bays covered with ribbed cross vaults, and a façade<br />

covered with regular courses of sandstone ashlars.<br />

After a flat stretch, the medieval road, in La Fonte, unlike today’s<br />

provincial road, went up steeply until it reached the magnificent<br />

hospice of Fonteviva or del Bigallo, which is the starting<br />

point for the two local itineraries.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1<br />

Leaving the hospice behind, our itinerary passes quickly through<br />

L’Apparita (a place-name originating from its being the first<br />

point where the wayfarer could see Florence), and then comes<br />

to Le Quattro <strong>Vie</strong>. Here we initially take an asphalt road that<br />

then becomes a dirt one, that leads to Ponte a Vicelli, a structure<br />

dating back to 1293 that, together with the original brickwork,<br />

has preserved the aedicule of a tabernacle. The road then<br />

proceeds in the direction of the pass (and town) of San Donato,<br />

joining the provincial road just before the town.<br />

From San Donato, we take the now secondary road of Via Vecchia<br />

Aretina – a meaningful name – but that once was the<br />

main route along which we find some remaining stretches of<br />

the ancient stone paving. We come to Troghi after crossing over<br />

a picturesque bridge that also has a tabernacle and there we<br />

connect to the provincial road. An inn in Troghi, the first stopping<br />

place after the pass, is mentioned in the 1726 Relazione del<br />

viaggio alla Santa Casa by Canon Giuseppe Antonio Scarlatti.<br />

196<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Porta San Miniato (Florence)<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Abbey of San Bartolomeo di Ripoli<br />

1 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Ripoli<br />

1 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Hospice of Fonte Viva or the Bigallo<br />

3 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

San Donato in Collina<br />

3.7 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Troghi


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Church of San Donato in Collina<br />

Though modernized, the church has kept the high, cuspidate bell<br />

tower whose architectural features still reflect the Romanesque<br />

tradition. There was a hospice – also named for Saint Donatus<br />

– attached to the church that served travelers’ needs, recorded<br />

since 1341.<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

The Ancient Hospice of Bigallo<br />

Built in the first half of the 13 th century by Dioticidiede di Bonaguida<br />

del Dado, a rich citizen of Florence, the hospice was the seat of<br />

the Compagnia Maggiore dei Capitani di Santa Maria della Fede,<br />

later known as the Bigallo from its location. It carried out charitable<br />

work, caring for pilgrims and poor travelers as well as the<br />

sick that were given shelter in the thirty beds of the hospice. Later<br />

it was converted into a monastery in the 16 th century, and then<br />

used for civil purposes after the Napoleonic suppression. Now the<br />

partly restored hospice has just recently returned to play its ancient<br />

role as a hostel for travelers. The complex consists of several<br />

buildings from different periods, with the oldest parts ascribable<br />

to the 13 th century. Of note is the large hall with the lacunar ceiling<br />

that served as the refectory and the ancient kitchen with its<br />

large fireplace.<br />

Reconstruction of the antique hospice of the Bigallo<br />

197


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES:<br />

BIGALLO - INCONTRO - VILLAMAGNA<br />

BIGALLO - ANTELLA - SANTA CATERINA<br />

LOCAL ITINERARY<br />

Villamagna<br />

San Gherardo<br />

Rimaggio<br />

Incontro<br />

Belvedere<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

San Fredinando<br />

Santa Caterina<br />

Antella<br />

Querceto<br />

Osteria Nuova<br />

Bigallo<br />

MAIN<br />

ITINERARY<br />

Il Colto<br />

Casanuova<br />

198<br />

Reto<br />

Hospice of the Bigallo


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Paterno, Convent of Incontro, San Gherardo, Poggio Terra Bianca,<br />

Arco del Camicia<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 580<br />

Distance: km 14.9<br />

Travel time: 5h15’<br />

The local itinerary, leading to the Convent of Incontro, is characterized by the<br />

typical landscape of the Florentine hills, with terraced olive groves and mixed<br />

woods of downy, turkey and holm oaks and scattered groups of cypress in<br />

some areas.<br />

To be seen:<br />

Church of Santo Stefano a Paterno<br />

Convent of Incontro<br />

Oratory of Beato Gherardo<br />

Parish Church of Villamagna<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Villa Peruzzi, Antella, Oratory of Santa Caterina, Arco del Camicia<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 200<br />

Distance: km 10.3<br />

Travel time: 3h10’<br />

This local south itinerary unwinds in an area characterized by a rural landscape<br />

dominated by olive cultivation. The route therefore crosses traditional and specialized<br />

olive groves interspersed with the rows of cypresses typical of Tuscany.<br />

Approaching Antella, the itinerary also runs for a short stretch on a footpath<br />

along the S. Giorgio River.<br />

199<br />

To be seen:<br />

Parish Church of Santa Maria dell’Antella<br />

Frescoes in the Oratory of Santa Caterina


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES<br />

The first itinerary proceeds in the area north of Bigallo. Returning<br />

towards Florence, after a few hundred meters, we arrive at<br />

Arco del Camicia and take “Via di Terzano”, the road to the right<br />

that leads to the Church of Santo Stefano a Paterno, in which<br />

there is a late 13 th -century painted Crucifix attributed to Gaddo<br />

Gaddi. Then we continue on a dirt road that climbs Incontro Hill<br />

where at the top – with a beautiful view of the Florentine valley<br />

– is the Franciscan convent founded in 1716 by Saint Leonard of<br />

Port Maurice.<br />

We descend Incontro Hill towards the Parish Church of Villamagna;<br />

shortly before arriving at the church, we come to<br />

an oratory named for Beato Gherardo, a saint who was the<br />

object of great local veneration and, at one time, a pilgrimage<br />

destination.<br />

Leaving the Oratory of San Gherardo, we quickly come to the<br />

Parish Church of San Donnino a Villamagna, which has preserved<br />

its original Romanesque features: three aisles separated<br />

by arches set on simple pillars and with a high bell tower. Inside,<br />

there are some paintings and frescoes, including a triptych<br />

by Mariotto di Nardo that portrays the Virgin and Child with<br />

Angels and Saints and a Madonna and Child with Saints Gerard<br />

and Domninus, painted by Francesco Granacci who was born<br />

in Villamagna.<br />

From the parish church of Villamagna, we return to the church<br />

of San Gherardo, where a CAI trail begins that will take us to<br />

the villages of Vizzano, Podere Radda, and Rimaggino until<br />

joining the Via Vecchia Aretina, not far from Arco del Camicia<br />

where we started.<br />

200<br />

Interior of the parish church of Villamagna<br />

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LAND OF SAINTS<br />

The Blessed Gerard and His Oratory<br />

Born around 1174 on a farm in the Villamagna countryside, the<br />

Blessed Gerard is thought to have died in 1258, or perhaps in<br />

1269. Because of his peasant origins, he was nicknamed the<br />

saint with clogs. The fame of his holiness and rumor of the miracles<br />

worked by him spread quickly after his death. He was especially<br />

recognized for his ability to free the countryside from<br />

such adverse weather conditions as hail, drought, and excessive<br />

rainfall. An ancient Vita or life of the saint recounts that, after his<br />

death, as the people of Villamagna wished “to take some Relics<br />

of Him (…) there was the risk that the Holy body itself would not<br />

even decompose; therefore it was rightly decided to put it, as it<br />

was done, in a coffin, and place it on top of an oak tree, until<br />

a church was built on the site of his hermitage” (M. BROCCHI,<br />

Vita di San Gherardo di Villamagna, Lucca 1750, p.22). Probably<br />

built in the second half of the 13 th century, the Oratory of San<br />

Gherardo has a single nave that still reflects the Romanesque<br />

architectural tradition. Inside is the stone sarcophagus that holds<br />

the body of the blessed man, and serves as the base for the altar<br />

mensa; on the walls are traces of frescoes depicting scenes from<br />

the life of the holy man.<br />

Oratory of Beato Gherardo<br />

201


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 1, LOCAL ITINERARIES<br />

To discover the area south of Bigallo, we follow a second itinerary.<br />

A dirt road branches off from Bigallo and proceeds toward<br />

the village of Ruballa, whose church is dedicated to Saints<br />

Quiricus and Judith and contains a 16 th -century Madonna and<br />

Child with Saint John as a Child attributed to Domenico Puligo.<br />

We continue towards Osteria Nuova and arrive in the town of<br />

Antella that arose around the Parish Church of Santa Maria.<br />

Leaving Antella, we go along a secondary road that passes by<br />

the Casa Poggio ai Grilli until we reach the Oratory of Santa<br />

Caterina, a charming jewel of art and architecture.<br />

Always on dirt roads, we go through a countryside dotted with<br />

medieval manor houses, often transformed and expanded in the<br />

16 th and 17 th centuries, such as Villa “Le Tavernucole” that formerly<br />

belonged to the Alberti family. Then we come again to the<br />

Via Vecchia Aretina that we reach in “Arco del Camicia”.<br />

Country road lined with trees<br />

202<br />

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VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Parish Church of Santa Maria all’Antella<br />

A Romanesque church with a single rectangular nave, it was later<br />

enlarged at the presbytery and restored with some stylistically<br />

consistent additions at the beginning of the 20 th century. Inside<br />

there are several 16 th - and 17 th -century paintings, including an<br />

Assumption of the Virgin by Domenico Passignano.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Oratory of Santa Caterina<br />

Built by the Alberti family beginning in 1354, the Oratory of Santa<br />

Caterina is named for the proto-Christian martyr whose life and<br />

martyrdom are told in an evocative cycle of frescoes, recently restored<br />

by the Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli. It is the work of three<br />

masters of the 14 th century: Spinello Aretino, Pietro Nelli, and the<br />

so-called “Master of Barberino”. The church, whose 14 th -century<br />

features are completely intact, has a single nave covered with wooden<br />

trusses and a small, square apse at the end.<br />

Frescoes of Saint Catherine<br />

203


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

Leg 2:<br />

TROGHI<br />

FIGLINE VALDARNO<br />

Troghi<br />

Continuing of LEG 1<br />

see page 192<br />

Frassine<br />

Piano di Fontana<br />

Le Valli<br />

Fornacette<br />

Palazzolo<br />

Pietramala<br />

Cerchiaia<br />

Ciliegi<br />

Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />

Le Fornaci<br />

La Torricella<br />

204<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Reconstruction of Francesco Petrarch’s house, Incisa in Valdarno


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Le Valli, Palazzolo, Incisa in Val d’Arno<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 60<br />

Distance: km 17.5<br />

Travel time: 4h55’<br />

A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads (80%) and partly on dirt ones (20%),<br />

with a well-marked route that does not present any orientation problems. The<br />

section from Troghi to Incisa in Val d’Arno is characterized by a descent towards<br />

the Valdarno with some panoramic points.<br />

Note: The path is shaded along the stretch between Palazzolo and Incisa in<br />

Val d’Arno, and water and refreshments are available in the villages and towns<br />

along the route.<br />

Transport:<br />

Figline<br />

Troghi<br />

To be seen:<br />

Castle of Incisa<br />

House where Francesco Petrarch was born<br />

Parish Church of San Vito in Loppiano (panoramic viewpoint)<br />

Franciscan Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

Museum of Sacred Art in Figline Valdarno<br />

Church of San Francesco in Figline Valdarno<br />

205<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

Troghi<br />

Leg 2<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Leg 3<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Leg 4<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 5<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


Leaving Troghi, we go along a stretch of provincial road passing<br />

first through Spedaletto (another place-name clearly referring<br />

to the charitable structure that once existed there), then the<br />

farm-villa of “La Chiocciola”. Arriving in “La Luna”, we again<br />

leave the provincial road for a shorter route that takes us to<br />

San Quirico alla Felce, a church recorded as early as the 13 th<br />

century. The building has undergone many alterations and now<br />

exhibits vaguely neoclassical forms. Abandoned for years, it has<br />

been restored by its present owners who have opened it to the<br />

public and also offer accommodation in the adjoining rooms.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />

In Le Valli, we return to the provincial road; shortly after, we take<br />

a secondary road that passes through the Fattoria dei Bagnani<br />

and reaches Palazzolo, whose church is not by chance dedicated<br />

to Saint Mary of Loreto.<br />

Road along the itinerary<br />

206<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Troghi<br />

5.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Palazzolo<br />

2.1 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Castle of Incisa<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />

1.3 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />

Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

6.9 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Figline Valdarno


Above: old stone paving along the route / Below: Fattoria La Chiocciola in Spedaletto<br />

207


IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

Palazzolo in <strong>Pilgrim</strong>s’ Memoirs<br />

Palazzolo was probably a stopping point on the Roman Via Cassia<br />

since ancient times, as seems to be indicated by its place-name,<br />

derived from palatium, a term used in the late Imperial Age to<br />

indicate the posts along the routes served by the cursus publicus.<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong>age memoirs mention Palazzolo as a stopping point for<br />

those who left from Florence. The brothers of the Florentine Congregation<br />

of the Holy Trinity stopped there in 1577, and paid 10<br />

scudi, 6 soldi, and 8 denari to “Benedetto, host (...) for breakfast<br />

made at said inn”. While Canon Joseph Antonio Scarlatti noted<br />

in his 1726 Relazione that he “finally stopped at half past three in<br />

Palazzolo, the inn of the lord Marchese Corsini”.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

Originally a small monastery of nuns dedicated to aiding travelers<br />

and pilgrims, it later passed in 1510 to the Franciscans, who<br />

continued their charitable work. The single-nave church was built<br />

in the first half of the 16 th century, and, at the end of that century,<br />

was given an imposing arcade to accommodate pilgrims. It was<br />

subsequently remodeled in a late Baroque style.<br />

Reconstruction of the Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

208


Beyond Palazzolo, we continue on the provincial road as far as<br />

Burchio where we take the road that – passing through San<br />

Quirico di Montelfi and Campogiano – leads to the Castle of<br />

Incisa, where the remains of its walls and of the Romanesque<br />

Church of San Biagio survive as well as some other buildings<br />

with medieval remnants, including the family home of Francesco<br />

Petrarch in which the poet spent his first seven years.<br />

Ruins of Incisa Castle<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />

209<br />

Troghi<br />

5.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Palazzolo<br />

2.1 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Castle of Incisa<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />

1.3 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />

Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

6.9 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

www.vieromee.it


A road leads from the castle to the ancient Parish Church of<br />

San Vito in Loppiano, first documented in the 11 th century. The<br />

church has three aisles and, despite the alterations over time, it<br />

has largely preserved its original Romanesque layout.<br />

The road from the Church of San Vito continues towards the<br />

town of Incisa that grew up along the Arno, at the foot of the<br />

castle. We arrive in the town from the south, where the Franciscan<br />

Convent of Santi Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio stands,<br />

recorded since the beginning of the 14 th century. Back on the<br />

provincial road, we follow a stretch as far as Massa di Incisa to<br />

then go towards Poggiolino.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 2<br />

We reach Figline where, on the northern outskirts of the town,<br />

is the sanctuary church of Santa Maria di Ponterosso, erected<br />

in 1570 near a brick bridge (and hence its name). On it stood a<br />

tabernacle with a 15 th -century image of the Madonna from the<br />

school of Perugino; thought to be miraculous, it was detached<br />

and moved inside the oratory. The church reflects the characteristics<br />

of the Renaissance minor architecture with a quadrangularplan<br />

choir defined by a stone arch with a floral motif.<br />

In the Middle Ages, Figline was a major stopping point on the<br />

road to Loreto, as the documented concentration of accommodation<br />

and charitable structures there confirms. In the 14 th<br />

century, there were a good seven hospices in Figline: the Hospice<br />

of San Lorenzo, a Dominican one, and one of the Company<br />

of the Cross; then there were the hospices of Societas Mariae<br />

Virginis, Santo Spirito, Societas presbiterum, and finally that of<br />

the Commune.<br />

Arcade of the ancient Serristori hospice in Figline Valdarno<br />

210<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Troghi<br />

5.8 km<br />

Time: 1h30’<br />

Palazzolo<br />

2.1 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Castle of Incisa<br />

1.4 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Parish Church of San Vito a Loppiano<br />

1.3 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Franciscan Convent of Santi<br />

Cosma e Damiano al Vivaio<br />

6.9 km<br />

Time: 2h<br />

Figline Valdarno


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Walled Town of Figline<br />

In the Middle Ages, Figline was one of the most populous centers<br />

in the Florentine countryside, home to a market whose prices<br />

served as the standard for all of the upper Valdarno. Testifying<br />

to the city’s importance is the circuit of 14 th -century walls, still<br />

largely intact, that enclosed the town, not to mention the civil<br />

buildings in the historical center, with many elegant, important<br />

ones like the Casa Grande Serristori with its 15 th -century doublecolonnaded<br />

courtyard. Also remarkable are the 13 th -century Collegiate<br />

Church and the Gothic Church of San Francesco, built at<br />

the end of the 13 th century and which reflects the simplicity typical<br />

of Franciscan architecture. Overlooking the ancient market square<br />

is the loggia of the Serristori Hospice, an important Figline institution<br />

that dates from the 15 th century.<br />

IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

Figline, An Important Stopping Point<br />

Also pilgrimage memoirs invariably mention Figline as a stopping<br />

point. In 1577 members of the Florentine Confraternity of the<br />

Holy Trinity stopped there and spent the night at a cost of 41<br />

scudi, “paid to Domenico di Bartolomeo Biagiotti, innkeeper of<br />

Figline, for having given dinner to 30 of us from the Company”.<br />

As did Canon Giuseppe Antonio Scarlatti, who wrote in his previously<br />

mentioned Relazione, “... passing the plain of La Fonte, the<br />

castle of Incisa, the Franciscan fathers of Vivaio, and the monastery<br />

of the Vallombrosan fathers of the Madonna del Ponte Rosso,<br />

we came to the town of Figline, five miles from Palazzolo, and<br />

leaving the said town, we stopped at one in the night at the inn<br />

of La Stella, not very far from it, having recited the Holy Rosary<br />

while on the road. This inn is of the Lord Duke Salviati, who also<br />

owns the beautiful villa of San Cerbone, which is on a hill above”.<br />

211<br />

Figline on the map of “Popoli e strade” of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa (1585)


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

Leg 3:<br />

FIGLINE VALDARNO<br />

MONTEVARCHI<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 2<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Carresi<br />

Badiola<br />

Restone<br />

Porcellino<br />

Badiola<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Convent of San Francesco<br />

a Montecarlo<br />

Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

212<br />

Ricasoli<br />

Montevarchi<br />

LEG 2 to<br />

Laterina<br />

see page 218<br />

Detail of Figline town walls


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 10<br />

Distance: km 17.6<br />

Travel time: 4h30’<br />

This is a tourist-style leg that, for over half of its length, follows the dirt shareduse<br />

path of the Valdarno and then enters the towns of San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

and Montevarchi. The route is therefore well-marked and presents no difficulties<br />

or problems of orientation.<br />

Note: The itinerary offers little shade; water and refreshments are available in<br />

the three towns along the route. It is flat and its length is not particularly demanding,<br />

no special physical training is needed.<br />

Transport:<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

To be seen:<br />

Convent of San Francesco a Montecarlo<br />

Palazzo d’Arnolfo in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Museum of the basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Church of San Giovanni Battista in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Church of San Lorenzo<br />

Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo in Montevarchi<br />

Montevarchi Museum of Sacred Art<br />

213<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

Troghi<br />

Leg 2<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Leg 3<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Leg 4<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 5<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The “Terranuova” of Castel San Giovanni<br />

The resolution of the Florentine Signoria to erect in Valdarno the<br />

walled town of Castel San Giovanni dates to 1299. “Arnolfo made<br />

the design for it...” thus, Vasari recalls the event leading to the creation<br />

of a town with a regular urban plan, set on the Via Aretina and<br />

with an orthogonal grid road network. A large part of the town’s<br />

fortification system has disappeared, unlike the urban layout that<br />

has survived largely intact, with the main building of the “terranuova”,<br />

represented by the turreted Palazzo Pretorio, also attributed<br />

to Arnolfo. The visual and functional center of San Giovanni, the<br />

Palazzo Pretorio is located in the center of the square on which are<br />

also found the town’s main religious buildings: the 17 th -century Basilica<br />

of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />

Battista and the Gothic Church of San Lorenzo, with its peculiar<br />

two-aisle plan.<br />

DEVOTION<br />

214<br />

The Miracle of the Milk<br />

Castel San Giovanni was itself a destination for pilgrims, although<br />

mostly of local importance, owing to the great veneration towards<br />

a picture of the Madonna which was linked to a miraculous<br />

event dating back to 1478. In that year, following the plague<br />

that had raged in and decimated the Valdarno area, an elderly<br />

woman, Monna Tancia dei Bianchi Bonavista, found herself having<br />

to look after her grandson without help, as they were the only<br />

survivors in their family. Unable to find a wet-nurse to replace the<br />

boy’s dead mother, the woman went to pray at the San Lorenzo<br />

town gate, above which there was a fresco depicting the Virgin<br />

nursing: Monna Tancia sensed within herself the vital flow that<br />

would allow her to feed the baby with her own milk. Later, a<br />

repetition of miraculous events first led to the construction of a<br />

large tabernacle and then, because of the increased number of<br />

those making pilgrimages to the sacred image, to the building<br />

of a church that made up the oldest core of the Basilica of Santa<br />

Maria delle Grazie.<br />

Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie in San Giovanni Valdarno


From Figline you take the footpath that follows the course of the<br />

Arno for the few kilometers that divide the town of Figline from<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno. The latter was once an important<br />

stopping point on the ancient road to Arezzo and had, although<br />

more modestly than in Figline, a concentration of accommodation<br />

facilities.<br />

Palazzo d’Arnolfo in San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3<br />

215<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

10.7 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

6.9 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Montevarchi<br />

www.vieromee.it


The distance between San Giovanni Valdarno and Montevarchi,<br />

the next waypoint on our itinerary, is short and covered by continuing<br />

to walk on the shared-use path that runs along the left<br />

bank of the Arno.<br />

On the provincial road, whose course is parallel to ours, we find<br />

Spedaluzzo, the place-name of a small village at the entrance<br />

to Montevarchi, which confirmed the many forms of accommodation<br />

(hospices, inns, hostels) that the Valdarno area offered<br />

to the travelers and pilgrims who stopped there. The 13 th - and<br />

14 th -century sources speak of the existence of a Hospitale Virginis<br />

Mariae peregrinationis, a Hospitale Sancti Michaelis de Montevarchi,<br />

as well as a hospice of Sant’Antonio.<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 3<br />

Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo in Montevarchi<br />

216<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

10.7 km<br />

Time: 2h45’<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

6.9 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Montevarchi


DEVOTION<br />

The <strong>Pilgrim</strong>age of the Mothers<br />

<strong>Pilgrim</strong>s were also able to increase their religious fervor in Montevarchi,<br />

with the opportunity offered by the relic of the Holy Milk<br />

kept in the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, also in this case a<br />

destination of local pilgrimages. Around the precious relic, donated<br />

to the people of Montevarchi by Count Guido Guerra V, a pious<br />

congregation formed that was named after Saint Mary of the Milk,<br />

later becoming the Compagnia del Latte, which contributed to the<br />

cult being established in the Valdarno area where, not by chance,<br />

the iconography of the suckling Madonna would spread. Hence,<br />

women who had recently given birth made the pilgrimage to the<br />

Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo to pray for an abundance of milk.<br />

VILLAGES AND MONUMENTS<br />

The Ancient Market Town<br />

Originally the market of the castrum de Monteguarchi set on the<br />

top of a hill northwest of the current town, Montevarchi was acquired<br />

by Florence in the mid-13 th century. It was one of the main<br />

towns in the Florentine countryside in terms of urban population<br />

and size and was therefore equipped with a system of fortifications<br />

of which few traces remain, except for the massive keep reinforcing<br />

the defenses at the Porta Fiorentina. The still clearly visible<br />

13 th -14 th -century structure of the town is based on two longitudinal<br />

road axes running parallel to each other and the large central<br />

square, with the Palazzo Pretorio and the Collegiate Church of San<br />

Lorenzo, the most important church in Montevarchi renovated on<br />

several occasions: first, in the 17 th century and again in the 18 th<br />

century. The clear influence of Florentine cultural models is plainly<br />

visible in other important buildings of the town: the late-Renaissance<br />

Oratory of the Madonna del Giglio, the 16 th -century Palazzo<br />

Alamanni, and the 18 th -century church of Sant’Andrea a Cennano.<br />

217<br />

Sanctuary Church of Santa Maria del Giglio in Montevarchi


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

Leg 4:<br />

MONTEVARCHI<br />

LATERINA<br />

Continuing of LEG 2<br />

see page 212<br />

Monticello<br />

((junction with Setteponti road)<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Levanella<br />

Bandella<br />

Reserve<br />

Valle dell’Inferno<br />

and Bandella Laterina<br />

Reserve<br />

Levane<br />

Montalto<br />

Podere Stefanelli<br />

Bucine<br />

218<br />

Bandella Reserve


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Levane, Bandella Reserve, Montincello (junction with Setteponti road),<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 150<br />

Distance: km 18.6<br />

Travel time: 5h15’<br />

This tourist-style leg runs along both dirt and asphalt roads. The route is wellmarked,<br />

and poses no difficulties or problems of orientation.<br />

This leg is characterized by some panoramic points on the Arno Valley and the<br />

passage across areas of natural interest.<br />

Note: The route begins on the dirt road of a shared-use path that goes from<br />

Montevarchi, along the bank of the Dogana River, and leads then to the SR69<br />

road near Levanella. From here, after about a 2.5 km stretch on the SR69 road,<br />

it continues northward crossing the Arno and arriving in Monticello. After the<br />

bridge on Lake Levane, we climb again through the oak woods to reconnect<br />

with the historical Via Vecchia Aretina at Ponte Romito, which we follow for 2.8<br />

km until reaching Laterina. In this section, pedestrians are advised to comply<br />

with the rules of the road. On this leg, local restaurants and water fountains<br />

are available.<br />

Transport:<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Ponticino<br />

Levane<br />

Monticello<br />

To be seen:<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Natural Reserve<br />

Monticello Visitor Center<br />

Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina)<br />

Walk along the ancient castle walls, with panorama of the Lower Valdarno<br />

(Laterina)<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Galatrona and Tower<br />

(Montevarchi - Mercatale bus and then 1 kilometer on foot)<br />

219<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

Troghi<br />

Leg 2<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Leg 3<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Leg 4<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 5<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


220<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni a Galatrona


The successive course of the road to Arezzo is thus succinctly<br />

described in the 18 th -century Relazione by the canon Giuseppe<br />

Antonio Scarlatti: “The morning of 9 September we started from<br />

Montevarchi at 10 am and passing by Levane where the poststage<br />

is, by the Malafrasca forest and below Laterina, we arrived<br />

at a quarter past two in Monsoglio, at the beautiful villa of Sir<br />

Knight Bindo Peruzzi (...) at 9 p.m., we left from that villa and<br />

past the bridge at Buriano and Quarrata we arrived at half past<br />

one at night in the city of Arezzo”.<br />

Our itinerary beyond Montevarchi uses a bike path that follows<br />

the Arno River as far as the village of Case Villanuzza. Here,<br />

we go along a short stretch of state road No. 69 as far as Levane,<br />

then turn north and take a dirt road that leads to the<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve, where we cross<br />

the Arno. We then reach the small village of Monticello, where<br />

the visitor center of the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature<br />

Reserve is located. Here you can find and get information on<br />

the major ecological systems of the natural reserve: wetlands,<br />

water courses, and the wood. You can also book guided tours<br />

on foot or by boat within the natural area as well as visits to the<br />

hydroelectric plant of the Levane dam.<br />

From Montincello, we continue east, still on secondary roads until<br />

reaching Laterina.<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w from Monticello<br />

5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 4<br />

221<br />

Montevarchi<br />

7 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Levane<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 35’<br />

Valle dell’Inferno<br />

and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />

2.4 km<br />

Time: 45’<br />

Monticello:<br />

Nature Reserve Visitor Center<br />

7.4 km<br />

Time: 2h10’<br />

Laterina<br />

www.vieromee.it


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA<br />

Leg 5:<br />

LATERINA<br />

QUARATA (AREZZO)<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 3<br />

Le Casacce<br />

Le Fornaci<br />

Cincelli<br />

Laterina<br />

P. Mongibello<br />

Rondine<br />

Junction<br />

with SP1<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

Quarata<br />

Patrignone<br />

Pratantico<br />

Montione<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

222<br />

Buriano Bridge


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Rondine, Junction with SP1 road, Ponte a Buriano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 170<br />

Distance: km 11.5<br />

Travel time: 3h15’<br />

A tourist-style leg, mainly on asphalt roads.<br />

We find stretches of dirt roads shortly after Laterina and at the detour that leads<br />

from the Vecchia Aretina to Rondine. The route is well marked; it poses no difficulties<br />

or problems of orientation.<br />

Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti provincial<br />

road, we find the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km. Here it<br />

is recommended that people traveling on foot continue as far as Ripa Quarata<br />

and then take the bus to Arezzo (www.etruriamobilita.it).<br />

This leg is the same as the last one of the Setteponti itinerary.<br />

Transport:<br />

Laterina<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

Quarata<br />

Arezzo<br />

To be seen:<br />

Village of Rondine<br />

Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve<br />

Buriano Bridge<br />

Arezzo<br />

223<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Miniato<br />

Troghi<br />

Leg 2<br />

Troghi<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Leg 3<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Leg 4<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 5<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


5 TH ITINERARY - THE VIA VECCHIA ARETINA - LEG 5<br />

After Laterina and continuing towards Arezzo, we find the<br />

Monsoglio Farm; we skirt along the Ponte Buriano and Penna<br />

Natural Reserve until we come to La Fornacina. Here we turn<br />

right towards the small village of Rondine, near which runs the<br />

Sette Ponti provincial road, which we take. We travel a short<br />

distance and then again cross the Arno over the imposing Buriano<br />

bridge that has preserved its 14 th -century structures. We<br />

are now at the gates of Arezzo. From the town of Quarata, we<br />

can take the bus and skip the last stretch before entering the<br />

chief town of Arezzo.<br />

In the Middle Ages, Arezzo played an important role in the transit<br />

and sorting of pilgrims: hence the numerous hospices of the<br />

city supplemented by those located in the immediate vicinity.<br />

Past Arezzo, the road that went to Rome must have followed a<br />

route quite similar to that of the Umbro-Casentino SS-71 road,<br />

on the high ground of the hills that today dominate the Val di<br />

Chiana, but that, in medieval times, faced the vast marshy area<br />

formed by the ancient tributary of the Tiber.<br />

Apse of the parish church of Arezzo<br />

224<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Laterina<br />

5.8 km<br />

Time: 1h45’<br />

Rondine<br />

3.2 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

2.5 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Quarata<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)


The Arno from the Buriano Bridge<br />

225


ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Ostello Antico Spedale del Bigallo<br />

Via del Bigallo e Apparita<br />

Osteria Nuova<br />

50012 Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Tel: 055 630907<br />

info@bigallo.it - www.bigallo.it<br />

Parrocchia S. Maria a Quarto<br />

Via di Quarto, 7 - 50012 Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Tel: 055 696454 - 055 630080<br />

Parish priest’s mobile phone: 338 6726373<br />

Vialla Il Puccetto Affittacamere<br />

Via Poggio alla Croce, 42<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 9500065 - Fax: 055 9500087<br />

ilpuccetto@libero.it - www.ilpuccetto.it<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Comunità Nuovi Orizzonti<br />

Via Pestello, 7 - 52026 Montevarchi<br />

Tel: 055 984819<br />

montevarchi@nuoviorizzonti-onlus.com<br />

www.nuoviorizzonti-onlus.com<br />

226<br />

Troghi<br />

Agriturismo Villa Torre a Cona<br />

Via Torre a Cona, 49<br />

San Donato in Collina<br />

50067 Rignano sull’Arno<br />

Tel: 055 699000 - Fax: 055 699877<br />

info@villatorreacona.com<br />

www.villatorreacona.com<br />

Campeggio Il Poggetto<br />

Via il Poggetto, 143-144 - Troghi<br />

50067 Rignano sull’Arno<br />

Tel: 055 8307323 - Fax: 055 8307323<br />

info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />

www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Campeggio Norcenni<br />

Via Norcenni, 7<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 915141 - Fax: 055 9151402<br />

girasole@ecvacanze.it<br />

www.ecvavanze.it<br />

Leon d’Oro di Prozzo Vittorio Affittacamere<br />

Via Vittorio Locchi, 7<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 951922 - Fax: 055 951922<br />

info@leondorotoscana.it<br />

www.leondorotoscana.it<br />

Monastero della Santa Croce<br />

Via S. Croce 4<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 953176<br />

Podere la Casellina Agriturismo<br />

Via Poggio alla Croce, 60<br />

La Casellina<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 9500070<br />

poderelacasellina@tin.it<br />

www.poderelacasellina.it<br />

Valdarno Affittacamere<br />

Via Petrarca, 61<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 953137 - Fax: 055 953149<br />

Podere Gruccia Affittacamere<br />

Via Burzagli, 273<br />

52025 Montevarchi<br />

Tel: 055 9850472 - Cell: 339 6263956<br />

info@poderegruccia.it<br />

www.poderegruccia.it<br />

Podere Luisa Affittacamere<br />

Via Rendola, 69<br />

52025 Montevarchi<br />

Tel: 055 9707334<br />

info@podereluisa.it - www.podereluisa.it<br />

Viallaggio Paradiso Affittacamere<br />

Via Chiantigiana<br />

52025 Montevarchi<br />

Tel: 338 3237591<br />

info@villaggioparadiso.it<br />

www.villaggioparadiso.it<br />

Laterina<br />

Fattoria Isola Agriturismo<br />

Via Aretina, 70 - 52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 0575 894785<br />

Il Poggerello Agriturismo<br />

Via Penna, 14 - 52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 335 6839009<br />

Il Torricino Affittacamere<br />

Via Valdascione, 1 - 52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 0575 89219<br />

Toscana Verde Agriturismo<br />

Via Penna, 2 - 52020 Laterina<br />

Tel.: 0575 89571 - Fax: 0575 895750<br />

info@toscanaverde.com<br />

www.toscanaverde.com<br />

Arezzo<br />

Foresteria San Pier Piccolo<br />

Via Bicchieraia, 32 - 52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 324219 - Fax: 0575 324219<br />

www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it<br />

Fraternità San Lorenzo<br />

Pomaio - 52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 793811


Il Pascione Casa vacanze<br />

Via Setteponti, 40 - 52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 356128 - Cell: 334 9557291<br />

www.ilpascione.it<br />

I Pratacci Foresteria<br />

Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 383338<br />

Cell: 335 7505504<br />

www.foresteriarezzo.com<br />

Ostello Villa Severi<br />

Via F. Redi, 13 - 52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 299047<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

URP Municipality of Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Piazza della Vittoria, 1<br />

50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 6390222 - Fax: 055 6390267<br />

www.comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it<br />

urp@comune.bagno-a-ripoli.fi.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Friday 8 a.m.-1<br />

p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays 2.30 p.m.-<br />

6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m.-12.30 p.m.<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

Municipality of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />

(Also for the municipalities of Figline Valdarno,<br />

Reggello and Rignano sull’Arno)<br />

A1 motorway at the Incisa exit in I Ciliegi<br />

50064 Incisa Val d’Arno (Florence)<br />

Tel and Fax: 055 863129<br />

infovaldarnofi@inwind.it<br />

Hours (from 17 June to 17 October):<br />

From Monday to Saturday<br />

10 a.m.–12 p.m./2.30 p.m.–6.30 p.m.<br />

Closed on Sundays and holidays.<br />

Pro-Loco Incisa Val d’Arno<br />

Piazza Garibaldi, 8<br />

50064 Incisa Val d’Arno<br />

Tel: 055 8334061<br />

prolocoincisa@alice.it<br />

Tourist Information Office Rignano<br />

at Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />

of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />

URP Municipality of Rignano<br />

Piazza della Repubblica, 1<br />

50067 Rignano sull’Arno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8347802 - Fax: 055 8348787<br />

www.comune.rignano-sullarno.fi.it<br />

urp@comune.rignano-sullarno.fi.it<br />

Hours: from Monday to Friday 8.30 a.m.-<br />

12.30 p.m.; Tuesdays and Thursdays also 3<br />

p.m.-6 p.m.; Saturdays 8.30 a.m. -11 a.m.<br />

Tourist Office<br />

Municipality of San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Piazza Masaccio, 12<br />

52027 San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Tel: 055 9126251<br />

Fax: 055 9121796<br />

www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it<br />

turismosgv@val.it<br />

Tourist Information Office<br />

(Pro Loco San Giovanni)<br />

Piazza Cavour, 3<br />

52027 San Giovanni Val d’Arno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 943748<br />

Fax: 055 9121123<br />

www.comune.san-giovanni-valdarno.ar.it/proloco.asp<br />

prolocosgv@val.it<br />

Tourist Information Office Montevarchi<br />

Piazza Varchi, 5 - 52025 Montevarchi (AR)<br />

Tel: 055 9108247<br />

www.comune.montevarchi.ar.it<br />

info@comune.montevarchi.it<br />

Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

Tel: 055 9194705<br />

www.comune.terranuova-bracciolini.ar.it/<br />

Tourist Information Point<br />

Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

Tel: 055 9738828<br />

www.terraospitale.it<br />

infoturismovaldarno@gmail.com<br />

227<br />

Tourist Information Office Figline Valdarno<br />

at Tourist Information Office Municipality<br />

of Incisa Val d’Arno<br />

Associazione Pro Loco Marsilio Ficino<br />

Piazza San Francesco, 16<br />

50063 Figline Valdarno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 951569 - Fax: 055 953112<br />

info@prolocofigline.it<br />

www.prolocofigline.it<br />

Winter hours: from Monday to Friday 9<br />

a.m.-12.30 p.m. - Summer hours (May<br />

-September): from Monday to Saturday 9<br />

a.m.-12.30 p.m./ 4 p.m.-6.30 p.m. (only<br />

from Monday to Friday)<br />

APT of Arezzo<br />

Piazza Risorgimento, 116 - 52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />

Tel: 0575239523<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

apt@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />

Infopoint of Arezzo<br />

Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />

Tel: 0575 377829<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

UIT (Tourist Information Office) of Arezzo<br />

Piazza della Repubblica, 28<br />

52100 Arezzo (AR)<br />

Tel: 0575 377678


228<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

info@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />

Bike rental<br />

Alinari<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500<br />

www.alinarirental.com<br />

Rent Way<br />

P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />

50122 - Florence<br />

Tel: 055 2398890 - Cell: 333 9619820<br />

www.rentway.it - info@rentway.it<br />

Florence by bike<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via San Zanobi, 120/122r<br />

Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />

www.florencebybike.it<br />

B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental)<br />

Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4<br />

50126 Florence<br />

Tel: 348 2644190<br />

www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com<br />

liulamp@libero.it<br />

Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental)<br />

Via del Carota, 3<br />

50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923<br />

www.lecivetteresort.it<br />

info@lecivetteresort.it<br />

Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental)<br />

Via Montelfi, 1<br />

50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8335143<br />

www.agriturismobellavista.com<br />

info@agriturismobellavista.com<br />

Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental)<br />

Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi<br />

52027 - San Giovanni Valdarno (AR)<br />

Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804<br />

Cell: 335 1250857<br />

www.agriturismovalleverde.com<br />

info@agriturismovalleverde.com<br />

Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental)<br />

Via Poggetto, 143<br />

50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8327323<br />

www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />

info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />

Events and fairs<br />

Arezzo<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato<br />

(7 August)<br />

Giostra del Saracino<br />

(June and September)<br />

Bagno a Ripoli<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro<br />

and Paolo (29 June)<br />

Palio delle Contrade and Giostra della<br />

Stella (September)<br />

Bagno a Ripoli - Grassina<br />

Re-enactment of the Passion of Christ<br />

(Good Friday)<br />

Bucine<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Salvatore<br />

(third Sunday of September)<br />

Figline Valdarno<br />

Cantamaggio (end of May)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />

(6 July)<br />

Festa del perdono and Palio di San Rocco<br />

(first Sunday of September)<br />

Incisa Valdarno<br />

Festa del Perdono, Palio dei renaioli e<br />

delle lavandaie (the Friday and Tuesday<br />

nearest to the third Sunday of September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Alessandro<br />

(6 April)<br />

Laterina<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito<br />

and Cassiano (18 August)<br />

Nativity Scenes in Laterina (December)<br />

Laterina Ponticino<br />

Palio della rana (last Sunday in June)<br />

Montevarchi<br />

Festa del Perdono, Gioco del pozzo<br />

(first week in September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Lorenzo<br />

(10 August)<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele<br />

Arcangelo (29 September)<br />

Rignano sull’Arno<br />

Festa del Perdono (September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Leolino<br />

(12 November)<br />

San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Festa del Perdono<br />

(first Sunday after 13 September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Giovanni<br />

(24 June)<br />

Rificolona (7 September)<br />

Terranova Bracciolini<br />

Festa del Perdono (September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio<br />

(13 June)


6 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE STRADA<br />

DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Via Sancti Petri<br />

229<br />

The strata per quam itur ad Pontem de Sieve was of notable<br />

importance for Florence because, besides connecting the city<br />

with the towns on the right side of the upper Valdarno - where<br />

the road going to Arezzo, the so-called Via dei Sette Ponti, ran<br />

- it also connected, in Pontassieve, with the easternmost of the<br />

routes crossing the Apennines in the Florentine countryside:<br />

the road leading to Forli by way of Dicomano, San Godenzo,<br />

and the Alpe di San Benedetto. Because of this, in the 14 th -<br />

century list of main roads and routes contained in the Statuto<br />

del Capitano del Popolo, it is also defined as the road that vadit<br />

versus Decomanum.


6 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Via Sancti Petri<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

(Florence)<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Quarata<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

230<br />

THE ITINERARY<br />

Starting Point: Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

End point: Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Elevation gain:<br />

500<br />

450<br />

400<br />

350<br />

300<br />

250<br />

200<br />

150<br />

100<br />

50<br />

00<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />

Junction with SP1


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 106,5<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve<br />

Waypoints: Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />

Distance: km 20.9<br />

Page 236<br />

Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pieve a Pitiana<br />

Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini<br />

Distance: km 17.6<br />

Page 242<br />

Leg 3: Pieve a Pitiana – Pian di Scò<br />

Waypoints: San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello,<br />

San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />

Distance: km 18<br />

Page 246<br />

Leg 4: Pian di Scò – Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna<br />

Distance: km 19.2<br />

Page 250<br />

Leg 5: Loro Ciuffenna – Laterina<br />

Waypoints: Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />

Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />

Distance: km 19.3<br />

Page 254<br />

Leg 6: Laterina – Quarata (Arezzo)<br />

Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano<br />

Distance: km 11.5<br />

Page 258<br />

Quarata - Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Distance: km 5.5<br />

The tour takes place mainly on asphalt secondary roads, and partially on grass<br />

and gravel paths. The route is well-marked; there are no problems of orientation.<br />

The hilly and piedmont area through which the route passes means that<br />

some legs (the Porta San Gallo-Pontassieve one and the Pontassieve-Pieve a<br />

Pitiana one) have substantial differences in elevation. This route unwinds in the<br />

hills of the Florentine Valdarno and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge.<br />

The landscape is of great beauty with hills characterized by vineyards and olive<br />

groves, as well as unique geomorphologic formations such as the Balze, or Gullies,<br />

of the Valdarno.<br />

Note: This tourist-like route is very simple from a technical point of view, although<br />

some legs are rather demanding from a physical one. 85% of the route<br />

goes along secondary asphalt roads with the remaining 15% on gravel and<br />

grass paths. There are no particular problems associated with the availability<br />

of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The route is well-marked and<br />

easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial road<br />

SP1, or the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two alternative routes are<br />

offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. It is recommended, however, that<br />

those walking along the route pay particular attention to complying with the<br />

rules of the road. The last stop on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds<br />

with the final leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary and a short stretch<br />

of it (from Quarata to Arezzo) is to be covered by bus.<br />

231


6 TH ITINERARY<br />

THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Via Sancti Petri<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

(Florence)<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Laterina<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

232<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Florence


BIKING ITINERARY<br />

Distance (route): km 112<br />

Level of technical difficulty: TC<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium-Easy<br />

List of legs:<br />

Leg 1: Porta San Gallo (Florence) – Pontassieve<br />

Waypoints: piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />

Distance: km 20.9<br />

Page 236<br />

Leg 2: Pontassieve – Pian di Scò<br />

Waypoints: Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini, Pieve a Pitiana, San Donato<br />

in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello, San Giovenale (CAI trail))<br />

Distance: km 35.6<br />

Page 242<br />

Leg 3: Pian di Scò – Laterina<br />

Waypoints: Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna,<br />

Loro Ciuffenna, Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella<br />

Reserve, Podere Stefanelli<br />

Distance: km 38.5<br />

Page 250<br />

Leg 4: Laterina – Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

Waypoints: Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano, Quarata<br />

Distance: km 17<br />

Page 258<br />

A bike tour itinerary, mostly on asphalt roads with some sections on slightly<br />

rough and uneven gravel roads (level of technical difficulty, MC) for bikers with<br />

average technical ability. This route unwinds in the hills of the Florentine Valdarno<br />

and in the foothills of the Pratomagno ridge. The landscape is of great<br />

beauty characterized by vineyards and olive groves, as well as unique geomorphologic<br />

formations such as the Balze, or Gullies, of the Valdarno.<br />

Note: The course presents no particular technical difficulties, but requires good<br />

physical training because of the presence of steep climbs, especially on the leg<br />

from Florence to Pontassieve and the successive one that goes from Pontassieve<br />

to Pieve a Pitiana. 85% of the itinerary is also suitable for racing bikes, whereas<br />

in bumpy and uneven gravel stretches, it is necessary to use mountain bikes or<br />

robust city bikes. There are no particular problems associated with the availability<br />

of water as it may be found in the towns visited. The track is well-marked<br />

and easily identifiable. The historical itinerary, identified today by the provincial<br />

road SP1, also referred to as the Setteponti road, is then abandoned and two<br />

alternative routes are offered where pilgrims can travel more safely. The last leg<br />

on the itinerary (from Laterina to Arezzo) corresponds with the final part of the<br />

Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.<br />

233<br />

Landscape along the route


Pontassieve: a Crossroads and Military Stronghold<br />

234<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Pontassieve was then a major crossroads; from the simple village<br />

formed near the bridge that crossed the Sieve River just before it<br />

flows into the Arno, in the second half of the 14 th century it was<br />

transformed into the terra sive castri Sancti Angeli, one of the<br />

military strongholds of the Florentine state, as still attested by<br />

the substantial remnants of its ancient defense system.<br />

The road started from the city suburb of San Pier Maggiore (a<br />

Burgo Sancti Petri Maioris) and proceeded parallel to the Arno<br />

River. The suburban parish of San Giovanni Battista a Remole<br />

developed along this route. It was no coincidence then if the villages<br />

that were part of the parish were indeed located in an area<br />

that expanded lengthwise, closely following the Arno. Along the<br />

road were villages (Terenzano, Compiobbi, San Donato a Torri,<br />

and Le Sieci) whose churches were suffragan to the Remole parish<br />

church, located shortly before Sant’Angelo di Sieve (namely,<br />

Pontassieve).<br />

After crossing the Sieve River, on the Medici bridge built in 1555,<br />

a route to the right followed the lower course of the Arno’s main<br />

tributary as far as Dicomano, then continuing towards the Abbey<br />

of San Godenzo. This was the route which crossed over the<br />

Apennines and led to Romagna via the Alpe di San Benedetto,<br />

a way that over the centuries saw the passage of travelers and<br />

goods, but not so many pilgrims, who preferred instead the Via<br />

dell’Alpe di Serra, a route to Rome that crossed the Apennines in<br />

the Casentino and had the decided advantage of leading directly<br />

to Rome.<br />

Ancient road to Settignano


The Via dei Sette Ponti<br />

(namely, the Road of the Seven Bridges)<br />

Near Pontassieve was also the Via dei Sette Ponti. Probably of<br />

Etruscan origin, this road was especially busy in the central part<br />

of the Middle Ages, not only because of the connections between<br />

Florence and the emerging centers in the surrounding<br />

countryside scattered on the slopes of Pratomagno but, to some<br />

extent, also as a route to Rome that, from Arezzo, offered the<br />

opportunity of following the Via dell’Alpe di Serra, an important<br />

alternative to the Via Francigena. It is no coincidence, therefore,<br />

that a document from the end of the 10 th century recalls the Via<br />

dei Sette Ponti as via Sancti Petri, i.e., a route used by pilgrims<br />

going to Rome.<br />

The road unwound along the Pratomagno foothills and was dotted<br />

by a significant array of rural churches (the close relationship<br />

between parish churches and the road network has been ascertained):<br />

San Pietro a Pitiana, San Pietro a Cascia, Santa Maria<br />

a Scò, San Pietro a Gropina, and San Giustino Valdarno. As a<br />

whole, these churches are the most important examples of Romanesque<br />

religious architecture in the Valdarno region.<br />

Past the parish church of San Giustino, near Castiglion Fibocchi,<br />

and before arriving in Arezzo, the road crossed the Arno on the<br />

majestic Buriano bridge, which has preserved its powerful medieval<br />

structure with seven wide arches.<br />

Parish Church of Gropina<br />

235


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 1:<br />

PORTA SAN GALLO (Florence)<br />

PONTASSIEVE<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 1<br />

Piazza Edison<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Il Mulinaccio<br />

Montebeni<br />

Settignano<br />

La Valle<br />

Calcinaia<br />

San Jacopo al Girone<br />

Compiobbi<br />

Castelnuovo<br />

Le Falle<br />

Magnale<br />

Le Sieci<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Rosano<br />

Pievecchia<br />

San Martino<br />

a Quona<br />

236<br />

Landscape along the route


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Piazza Edison, Settignano, Compiobbi, Le Falle, Le Sieci<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 480<br />

Distance: km 20.9<br />

Travel time: 6h30’<br />

This leg is entirely on secondary asphalt roads that run along the hills of the<br />

Florentine Valdarno. The route is thus readily identifiable and there are no orientation<br />

problems or difficulties in finding it. The leg crosses through hills characterized<br />

by alternating olive groves and vineyards, with scattered farm houses<br />

and historic villas. The route offers views of scenic interest (the hills between<br />

Settignano and Compiobbi and between Sieci and San Martino a Quona).<br />

Note: The leg is fairly physically demanding as there are many variations in altitude<br />

and because of the distance of this leg. In Pontassieve, one can continue<br />

by train to Contea in the municipality of Dicomano, (19 min) to stay at the<br />

Convent of San Detole.<br />

Transport:<br />

Florence<br />

Settignano<br />

Compiobbi<br />

Le Sieci<br />

Pontassieve<br />

To be seen:<br />

Church of San Martino a Mensola<br />

Panorama of Florence from Piazza Desiderio da Settignano<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista a Remole<br />

Detour ( from Sieci) to the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso<br />

237<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


238<br />

Road to Settignano


To reach the suburbs of Florence, we take the bike path from<br />

Piazza della Libertà that runs along Viale Don Minzoni. Then,<br />

using the Le Cure railway underpass, we reach Piazza delle Cure.<br />

Here we turn into Viale Alessandro Volta where another bike<br />

path takes us to Piazza Edison. Then we go along Viale Augusto<br />

Righi as far as the beginning of Via Lungo l’Affrico; here we take<br />

Via del Cantone which then becomes Via Benedetto da Maiano.<br />

Next we proceed along Via Gabriele D’Annunzio that leads us<br />

first to Coverciano and then to Ponte a Mensola, the village<br />

that stretches at the foot of the Settignano hill, with its early medieval<br />

church rich in precious paintings. After crossing the river<br />

that gives the place its name, we take the so-called Via Vecchia<br />

di Settignano that, lined by walls, leads to the picturesque village<br />

of Settignano.<br />

Church of San Martino a Mensola<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1<br />

239<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

Ponte a Mensola<br />

4.5 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

1.1 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Settignano<br />

0.6 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Terenzano<br />

3.4 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Compiobbi<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />

Battista a Remole - Le Sieci<br />

Church of San Martino a Quona<br />

4 km 3.8 km<br />

Time: 1h15’ Time: 1h25’<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Pontassieve<br />

www.vieromee.it


From Settignano, we take the CAI trail to reach Compiobbi,<br />

traveling through a hilly area and coming to the small village<br />

of Terenzano, with its Romanesque church and the remains of<br />

13 th -century tower-houses.<br />

To avoid heavily trafficked State Road 67 that runs alongside<br />

the Arno to Pontassieve, from Compiobbi we go up towards<br />

San Donato a Torri and then return to the state road in Ellera,<br />

following it for a short distance as far as the small town of Le<br />

Sieci; here a pedestrian path along the Arno leads us to the Romanesque<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista a Remole.<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 1<br />

From Le Sieci, a road branches off that goes up the course of<br />

the river from which the small town derived its name and leads,<br />

via Molin del Piano and past the parish church of Lobaco, to the<br />

Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso, a lesser place of pilgrimage<br />

which had yet a considerable local importance.<br />

Returning to Le Sieci, we leave the state road to climb to the<br />

Remole Farm and then onward to the Church of San Martino<br />

a Quona, from where, shortly after, we come to Pontassieve, a<br />

large walled town of the Florentine republic whose importance<br />

derived from its being a regional crossroads. It is no coincidence<br />

that in the 14 th century, Pontassieve had several innkeepers as<br />

well as a pilgrims’ hospice dedicated to Saint Mary.<br />

Along the Arno near Pontassieve<br />

240<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Porta San Gallo (Florence)<br />

Ponte a Mensola<br />

4.5 km<br />

Time: 1h10’<br />

1.1 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Settignano<br />

0.6 km<br />

Time: 10’<br />

Terenzano<br />

3.4 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Compiobbi<br />

Parish Church of San Giovanni<br />

Battista a Remole - Le Sieci<br />

Church of San Martino a Quona<br />

4 km 3.8 km<br />

Time: 1h15’ Time: 1h25’<br />

3.5 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Pontassieve


DEVOTION<br />

The Madonna Appearing to Two Young Shepherdesses<br />

On the location where the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso<br />

now stands there was originally a tabernacle, known as the Hermit’s.<br />

Beginning in the 11 th century, its veneration so intensified<br />

that it became necessary to build a small oratory. Here, tradition<br />

has it, the Madonna appeared to two young shepherdesses in<br />

1484. The request for a larger church in which to dispense graces<br />

to those deserving them was expressed by the Madonna herself<br />

and confirmed in a grand appearance to the entire congregation<br />

gathered in prayer on 22 August, 1485.<br />

This was the origin of the sanctuary’s current complex, consisting<br />

of two main buildings: the lower oratory (or Chapel of the<br />

Apparitions) and the upper oratory (or New Church); the latter,<br />

a larger building with a Greek-cross plan, was renovated in the<br />

Baroque period. Other buildings were added over the centuries to<br />

meet the needs of the growing number of pilgrims who flocked<br />

to the sanctuary: a portico, the chaplain’s house, the rooms of the<br />

companies, and a slaughterhouse. The latter was the place where<br />

animals were sacrificed in rites of propitiation and of thanksgiving<br />

in May and during harvests.<br />

Drawing of the Oratory of the Madonna del Sasso<br />

241


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 2:<br />

PONTASSIEVE<br />

PIEVE A PITIANA<br />

Risalpiano<br />

La Fornace<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 2<br />

San Francesco<br />

Diacceto<br />

Ferrano<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Monsecco<br />

Le Palaie<br />

Pelago<br />

Corte<br />

Certina<br />

Paterno<br />

Pagiano<br />

Tosi<br />

Masseto<br />

Poggio al Secolo<br />

242<br />

Donnini<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

LEG 2 to<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

see page 246<br />

The Medicean Bridge in Pontassieve


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Diacceto, Pelago, Paterno, Pagiano, Donnini<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Medium<br />

Climb: m 630<br />

Distance: km 17.6<br />

Travel time: 5h40’<br />

75% of this leg is along asphalt roads with the remaining 25% on farm cartroads.<br />

There are thus no problems in identifying the route. This leg follows<br />

narrow dirt tracks amidst vineyards of remarkable beauty.<br />

Note: This leg is technically simple but physically challenging, due to significant<br />

elevation gain variations. The route follows some parts of the Via dei Sette Ponti,<br />

where particular attention must be paid to motor vehicles and the rules of the<br />

road must be observed.<br />

Transport:<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Diacceto<br />

Pelago<br />

Paterno<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

To be seen:<br />

Nipozzano Castle, wine cellar and vineyards<br />

Village of Pelago<br />

San Martino a Pagiano<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Pitiana<br />

243<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


244<br />

Above: Pelago’s main square / Below: Tabernacle along the itinerary


After crossing the Sieve River at Pontassieve over the ancient<br />

16 th -century bridge, we pass the small town of San Francesco, a<br />

suburb of Pontassieve, and take a secondary road, from a parallel<br />

of the state road, leading to Diacceto and then to Pelago by<br />

way of Palaie Vecchie.<br />

From Pelago, we take the road to Paterno, a village that was<br />

the site of a Vallombrosan grange, and then a secondary route<br />

that leads to San Martino a Pagiano, a small village that rose<br />

at a medieval bridge that crosses the Vicano di Sant’Ellero River.<br />

We go up in the direction of the Sette Ponti Road, which we<br />

reach in Donnini. We continue on the ancient and winding<br />

route to arrive at the Parish Church of San Pietro a Pitiana,<br />

which preserves traces of the original Romanesque structure<br />

with one nave and two aisles.<br />

Parish Church of Pitiana<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 2<br />

245<br />

Pontassieve<br />

4.4 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Nipozzano castle<br />

4.1 km<br />

Time: 1h25’<br />

Pelago<br />

2.7 km<br />

Time: 55’<br />

Paterno<br />

5.2 km<br />

Time: 1h40’<br />

Donnini<br />

1.2 km<br />

Time: 20’<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

www.vieromee.it


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 3:<br />

PIEVE A PITIANA<br />

PIAN DI SCO’<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

I Fali<br />

Continuing of LEG 2<br />

see page 242<br />

Trana<br />

Trebbiali<br />

I Sorbi<br />

San Donato in Fronzano<br />

La Fabbrica<br />

La Corte<br />

Parish Church<br />

of Sant’Agata<br />

Cancelli<br />

Poggio Giubbiani<br />

Reggello<br />

Cascia<br />

Borgo a Cascia<br />

Tallini<br />

San Giovenale<br />

(CAI trail)<br />

Ferraia<br />

Casa Biondo<br />

246<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Ancient bridge over the Resco River in Pian di Scò


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

Elenco:<br />

San Donato in Fronzano, Pieve Sant’Agata, Cancelli, Reggello,<br />

San Giovenale (CAI trail)<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 250<br />

Distance: km 18<br />

Travel time: 5h05’<br />

The leg goes mainly along the Via dei Setteponti and only partly along CAI trails.<br />

Therefore the route is easily identified without problems of orientation. This leg<br />

is not particularly challenging.<br />

Note: Along the SP1 road, pay attention to the traffic and follow the rules of<br />

the road regarding pedestrians traveling on out-of-town roads.<br />

To join up with the CAI trail that starts from San Giovenale, we cross the stone<br />

bridge and turn right; then, turn right under the bridge after about 30 m.<br />

Transport:<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

To be seen:<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia, Reggello<br />

Parish Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli<br />

Abbey of Vallombrosa ( Reggello)<br />

247<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


Leaving the parish church of San Pietro a Pitiana and continuing<br />

along, we arrive in San Donato in Fronzano. Shortly after we<br />

take the secondary road to the right, which leads to the Romanesque<br />

Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli, the seat of a canonical<br />

community in the Middle Ages. We continue along as we pass<br />

through Cancelli where we again take up the Setteponti road in<br />

Reggello, a village where the existence of a hospice dedicated<br />

to St. John, found in the market square, was documented in<br />

the 15 th century.<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 3<br />

Continuing past Reggello, we come to the Parish Church of<br />

San Pietro a Cascia, one of the most important Romanesque<br />

buildings of the Valdarno. A hospice was annexed to it and was<br />

first recorded in the 14 th century as a dormentorio plebis Cascie.<br />

In San Giovenale, we take the CAI trail along which are two<br />

medieval bridges that cross, respectively, the Borro Pilano and<br />

the Resco Rivers. The trail then brings us to the village of Pian di<br />

Scò, built around the Parish Church of Santa Maria, another<br />

of the main Romanesque buildings in the Valdarno.<br />

Parish Church of Santa Maria<br />

248<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

6.5 km<br />

Time: 1h50’<br />

Church of Sant’Agata in Arfoli<br />

4.3 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Reggello<br />

1.5 km<br />

Time: 20’<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Cascia<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 1h40’<br />

Pian di Scò


NEARBY ATTRACTIONS<br />

The Abbey of Vallombrosa<br />

Shortly before arriving in Reggello, a road on the left goes up the<br />

slopes of Pratomagno and, near the ridge, reaches Vallombrosa,<br />

one of the destinations on the alternative roads of our itinerary.<br />

It was precisely in Vallombrosa that Saint John Gualbert retired<br />

in 1036; he was the founder of the reformed Benedictine order<br />

which took its name from this location. The first monastic community<br />

of the new congregation was established here and, between<br />

the 11 th and 13 th centuries, it spread in Tuscany and in most<br />

of north-central Italy.<br />

The impressive architectural complex of the abbey stands against<br />

the backdrop of a mountainous landscape; it is the result of subsequent<br />

reconstructions and expansions that occurred over the<br />

centuries and which essentially ended in the first half of the 17th<br />

century with the work of Gherardo Silvani, the architect also responsible<br />

for the Baroque-style renovation of the abbey church.<br />

The hub of the Vallombrosan congregation, the abbey, is full of<br />

memories related to Benedictine spirituality as well as works of art<br />

mostly from the 17 th and 18 th centuries.<br />

The forest of Vallombrosa that frames the abbey is a further reason<br />

in favor of the alternative route that we are suggesting.<br />

Abbey of Vallombrosa<br />

249


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 4:<br />

PIAN DI SCÒ<br />

LORO CIUFFENNA<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Starting point<br />

of LEG 3<br />

Pulicciano<br />

Faellina<br />

Castelfranco<br />

di Sopra<br />

Caspri<br />

Piantravigne<br />

Treggia<br />

Persignano<br />

Certignano<br />

HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />

LEG 3 to<br />

Laterina<br />

see page 254<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Poggitazzi<br />

Montemarciano<br />

Villa Riofi<br />

Penna<br />

Poderino<br />

250<br />

Pernina<br />

Soffena Abbey in Castelfranco di Sopra


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Castelfranco di Sopra, Certignano, Pietravigne, Villa Riofi, Penna<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 230<br />

Distance: km 19.2<br />

Travel time: 5h 20’<br />

This tourist-style leg initially goes along the ancient Setteponti road which we<br />

later leave to follow an alternative route immediately after Certignano, heading<br />

southwest towards Piantravigne. We then go south again towards Penna to<br />

then head north towards Loro Ciuffenna. This leg is characterized by the many<br />

panoramic points over the agricultural landscape of the upper Valdarno and<br />

its characteristic pinnacles of eroded clay typical of the Valdarno Gullies. The<br />

stretch winds in the foothills with some elevation gains. The route presents no<br />

particular technical difficulties.<br />

Note: The water supply is provided by the refreshment structures that exist<br />

along the route. This leg is more appropriate for cycling than hiking.<br />

Transport:<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

To be seen:<br />

Village of Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

Village of Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Clay gullies of Piantravigne<br />

251<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


252<br />

West Gate of Castelfranco di Sopra


After Pian di Scò, we continue to wind along the Sette Ponti<br />

road, until we come to Castelfranco di Sopra, the “terra nuova”<br />

founded by the Florentines in the early 14 th century, whose<br />

original urban plan and fortifications have been preserved almost<br />

intact. Not far from the town is the 13 th -century Abbey of<br />

San Salvatore a Soffena that belonged to the Vallombrosan<br />

congregation.<br />

Then we come to the village of Loro Ciuffenna; previously an important<br />

market town, it has retained a picturesque medieval bridge<br />

over which the Sette Ponti road crosses the Ciuffenna River.<br />

Stone-paved road along the way<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 4<br />

253<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

4.1 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

1.6 km<br />

Time: 25’<br />

Certignano<br />

0.8 km<br />

Time: 15’<br />

Piantravigne<br />

3.3 km<br />

Time: 50’<br />

Villa Riofi<br />

5.7 km<br />

Time: 1h35’<br />

Penna<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

3.7 km<br />

Time: 1h15<br />

www.vieromee.it


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 5:<br />

LORO CIUFFENNA<br />

LATERINA<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Gropina<br />

Continuing of LEG 3<br />

see page 250<br />

Penna<br />

Paterna<br />

San Giustino<br />

La Casaccia<br />

Traiana<br />

Cicogna<br />

Ricastelli<br />

Campogialli<br />

HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />

Castiglion Fibocchi<br />

254<br />

Monticello<br />

Valle dell’Inferno<br />

and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />

Montalto<br />

Casanuova<br />

Podere Stefanelli<br />

Laterina<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Loro Ciuffenna


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Gropina, Cicogna, Monticello, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve,<br />

Podere Stefanelli<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 100<br />

Distance: km 19.3<br />

Travel time: 5h15’<br />

This is a tourist-style leg that goes mainly along narrow and winding asphalt<br />

roads. Some stretches of dirt road are encountered near the village of Gropina,<br />

in the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve as well as in the stretch between<br />

Laterina and the provincial road. The leg offers panoramic points on the Valdarno.<br />

There are therefore no orientation difficulties or problems in identifying<br />

the route. The route does not have technical difficulties.<br />

Note: After a short initial climb, this leg descends to the small village of Gropina.<br />

We continue along the SP1 in a southerly direction and after about 2 km, we<br />

leave the historical route to continue downhill to Monticello. After the bridge<br />

over Lake Levane, we climb through the oak woods to re-join the historic Via<br />

Vecchia Aretina in Ponte Romito. We continue to follow it for 2.8 km before<br />

reaching Laterina. Along the leg, there are restaurants, bars and fountains that<br />

provide water.<br />

Transport:<br />

Monticello<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

To be seen:<br />

Monumental Parish Church of Gropina<br />

Visitor Center, Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve - Monticello<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Nature Reserve<br />

Porta del Ghianderino, Porta Fiorentina and the Fortress (Laterina)<br />

Walk along the ancient castle walls with a panorama of the lower Valdarno<br />

255<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


Not far from Loro Ciuffenna stands the monumental Parish<br />

Church of San Pietro a Gropina, a church that – for the grandeur<br />

of its layout and the complex iconography of its capitals – is<br />

unquestionably one of the most important Romanesque buildings<br />

in the Tuscan countryside.<br />

After Gropina, continuing on the slopes of Pratomagno, we can<br />

follow the historic route along the Setteponti road and visit the<br />

village of San Giustino Valdarno, in which we find the homonymous<br />

parish church with a basilica plan that has maintained<br />

almost intact its original Romanesque characteristics.<br />

6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI - LEG 5<br />

Our route instead heads for Laterina, passing Cicogna, Monticello<br />

and the Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve. Beyond<br />

Laterina, we retrace the route of Leg 5 of the 5 th itinerary to<br />

arrive in Arezzo (shown in the following pages).<br />

Parish Church of San Giustino<br />

256<br />

www.vieromee.it<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 40’<br />

Parish Church of San Pietro a Gropina<br />

5.3 km<br />

Time: 1h20’<br />

Cicogna<br />

4.8 km<br />

Time: 1h15’<br />

Monticello<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

Valle dell’Inferno and Bandella Reserve<br />

3.8 km<br />

Time: 1h<br />

Podere Stefanelli<br />

1.8 km<br />

Time: 30’<br />

Laterina


Above: Parish Church of Gropina / Below: Stone-paved road along the way<br />

257


6 TH ITINERARY - THE STRADA DEI SETTE PONTI<br />

Leg 6:<br />

LATERINA<br />

QUARATA (AREZZO)<br />

HISTORICAL ITINERARY<br />

Castiglion Fibocchi<br />

Godiola<br />

Junction with SP1<br />

Laterina<br />

Rondine<br />

Monte Sopra Rondine<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

Quarata<br />

Patrignone<br />

Indicatore<br />

Pratai<br />

Piazza Grande (Arezzo)<br />

258<br />

The Arno along the route


WALKING ITINERARY<br />

List of waypoints:<br />

Rondine, Junction with SP1, Ponte a Buriano<br />

Level of technical difficulty: T<br />

Level of physical difficulty: Easy<br />

Climb: m 170<br />

Distance: km 11.5<br />

Travel time: 3h15’<br />

Tourist-style leg that proceeds mainly on asphalt roads. Some dirt sections are<br />

encountered shortly after Laterina and at the detour from the Via Vecchia Aretina<br />

that leads to Rondine. The route is well marked and poses no difficulties or<br />

orientation problems.<br />

Note: From the village of Ponte a Buriano, continuing along the Setteponti<br />

provincial road, we come to the medieval village of Quarata after about 2.5 km.<br />

From this point people traveling on foot are advised to proceed to Arezzo by<br />

bus (www.etruriamobilita.it).<br />

This leg corresponds to the last leg of the Via Vecchia Aretina itinerary.<br />

Transport:<br />

Laterina<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

Quarata<br />

Arezzo<br />

To be seen:<br />

Village of Rondine<br />

Ponte Buriano and Penna Natural Reserve<br />

Ponte a Buriano<br />

Arezzo<br />

259<br />

LEGS<br />

Leg 1<br />

Porta San Gallo<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Leg 2<br />

Pontassieve<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Leg 3<br />

pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Leg 4<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Leg 5<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Laterina<br />

Leg 6<br />

Laterina<br />

Arezzo


IN PILGRIMS’ FOOTSTEPS<br />

The Via dell’Alpe di Serra<br />

From the 13 th century on, the Via dell’Alpe di Serra was especially<br />

busy owing to the increased importance of traffic from central<br />

Europe. Documentary sources from the 13 th century consider it<br />

one of the main pilgrim routes to Rome, and indeed indicate it as<br />

the best route (the “melior via”), especially for pilgrims and travelers<br />

from the Germanic world. The Annales Stadenses (mid-13 th<br />

century), considered the most comprehensive guide to Rome of<br />

the Middle Ages, besides suggesting it to pilgrims to Rome, show<br />

the succession of stopping places between Bologna and Rome,<br />

which permits us to broadly reconstruct the route. After passing<br />

Forlì and Bagno di Romagna, the road climbed the Apennines,<br />

and crossed them at the Alpe di Serra pass. It then descended to<br />

the Casentino, reaching first, Subbiano and then, Arezzo. Then<br />

it continued to Cortona, Città della Pieve, and Orvieto. From the<br />

latter, one could reach nearby Montefiascone where the Via Francigena<br />

leading to Rome passed.<br />

<strong>Vie</strong>w of Poppi and the Casentino<br />

260


ACCOMODATION FACILITIES AND INFORMATION<br />

Florence Settignano<br />

Ostello di Florence<br />

Viale Augusto Righi, 2/4<br />

50137 Florence<br />

Tel: 055 601451 - Fax: 055 610300<br />

info@ostelloFlorence.it<br />

Villa Morghen<br />

Via Feliceto, 8<br />

50135 Settignano<br />

Tel: 055 697362<br />

www.villamorghen.com<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Albergo I Villini<br />

Viale Diaz, 28<br />

50065 Pontassieve<br />

Tel: 055 8368140 - Fax: 055 8368140<br />

hotel@ivillini.it<br />

www.ivillini.it<br />

Convento di Sandetole<br />

Via A. Cecchini, 46<br />

50060 Contea - Dicomano<br />

Tel: 055 8389789 - Fax: 055 8389514<br />

Cell: 335 7747903<br />

sandetole@tiscali.it<br />

www.sandetole.it<br />

Parrocchia San Giovanni Gualberto<br />

Via Algeri, 5<br />

50065 Pontassieve<br />

Tel: 055 8368150<br />

parroco 055 8313356<br />

Podere Palazzuolo<br />

Via di Gricigliano, 47<br />

Le Falle - Sieci<br />

50065 Pontassieve<br />

Tel: 055 8309812<br />

agripalazzuolo@libero.it<br />

www.poderepalazzuolo.it<br />

Pieve a Pitiana<br />

Pieve di Pitiana<br />

50066 Reggello<br />

Tel: 055 860039<br />

Villa Pitiana Agriturismo<br />

Via Provinciale per Tosi, 7<br />

50060 Donnini<br />

Tel: 055 860259 - Fax: 055 860326<br />

info@villapitiana.com<br />

www.villapitiana.com<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Agriturismo Fattoria Gravanella<br />

Strada Provinciale 7 ponti, 59<br />

52026 Pian di Sco’<br />

Cell: 328 1542424 - Fax: 055 960053<br />

info@gravanella.it<br />

B&B Guardalaluna<br />

Via Marconi, 109 - Poggio Bonetti, 5<br />

52026 Pian di Sco’<br />

Tel: 055 9631006<br />

Fax: 0559631006<br />

www.guardalaluna.com<br />

Parrocchia S.Maria Assunta<br />

a Pian di Scò<br />

52026 Pian di Sco’<br />

Tel: 055 960133<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Affittacamere Il Torricino<br />

Via Valdascione, 1<br />

52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 0575 89219<br />

Agriturismo Fattoria Isola<br />

Via Aretina, 70<br />

52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 0575 894785<br />

Agriturismo Il Mulinaccio<br />

Mulinaccio, 64<br />

52024 Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Tel: 055 9139278<br />

www.mulinaccio.com<br />

Agriturismo Il Poggerello<br />

Via Penna, 14<br />

52020 Laterina<br />

Cell: 335 6839009<br />

Agriturismo Toscana Verde<br />

Via Penna, 2<br />

52020 Laterina<br />

Tel: 0575 89571<br />

Fax: 0575 895750<br />

info@toscanaverde.com<br />

www.toscanaverde.com<br />

Ostello Orma di lupo<br />

via Vin de Nuvoli - la Trappola<br />

52024 Loro Ciuffenna<br />

www.ormadilupo.it<br />

Arezzo<br />

Affittacamere Camera Caffè<br />

Via Guido Monaco, 92<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Cell: 347 0324405 - 392 5911326<br />

info@cameracaffe.net<br />

www.cameracaffe.net<br />

Casa vacanze Il Pascione<br />

Via Setteponti, 40<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 356128<br />

Cell: 334 9557291<br />

www.ilpascione.it<br />

261


262<br />

Foresteria I Pratacci<br />

Via Edison, 25 - Pratacci<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 383338<br />

Fax: 0575 324219<br />

Cell: 335 7505504<br />

www.foresteriarezzo.com<br />

Foresteria San Pier Piccolo<br />

Via Bicchieraia, 32<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 324219<br />

www.foresteriasanpierpiccolo.it<br />

Fraternità San Lorenzo<br />

Pomaio<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 793811<br />

Ostello Villa Severi<br />

Via F. Redi, 13<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 299047<br />

TOURIST INFORMATION<br />

Pontassieve PIT (Tourist information Point)<br />

Via Tanzini, 30<br />

50065 Pontassieve (Florence)<br />

Tel: 0558360232<br />

www.Florenceturismo.it<br />

info@comune.pontassieve.fi.it<br />

Tourist information, Municipality of Pelago<br />

Viale Rimembranza, 9<br />

50060 Pelago (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8326236<br />

Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays:<br />

8.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.<br />

www.comune.pelago.fi.it<br />

affarigenerali@comune.pelago.fi.it<br />

Reggello PIT (Tourist information Point)<br />

Piazza IV Novembre, 3<br />

50066 Reggello (Florence)<br />

Tel: 0558669368<br />

www.comune.reggello.fi.it<br />

www.Florenceturismo.it<br />

informazionituristiche@reggello.org<br />

Fiesole UIT (Tourist Information Office)<br />

Via Portigiani, 3<br />

50014 Fiesole (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 598720<br />

www.Florenceturismo.it<br />

info.turismo@comune.fiesole.fi.it<br />

Municipality of Pian di Scò<br />

Piazza del Municipio, 3<br />

52026 Pian di Sco’ (Arezzo)<br />

Tel: 055 9631290<br />

www.comune.pian-di-sco.ar.it<br />

Ufficio Turismo Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

c/o Biblioteca “Aldo Merlini”<br />

Piazza Livio Sati, 2<br />

52020 Castelfranco di Sopra (Arezzo)<br />

Tel: 055 9149392<br />

www.comune.castelfranco-di-sopra.ar.it/<br />

comunebiblioteca@libero.it<br />

Loro Ciuffenna UIT<br />

(Tourist Information Office)<br />

Piazza Matteotti, 7<br />

52024 Loro Ciuffenna (Arezzo)<br />

Tel: 0559170136<br />

www.comune.loro-ciuffenna.ar.it<br />

info.turismo@comune.loro-ciuffenna.ar.it<br />

Pro Loco Loro Ciufenna<br />

piazza Garibaldi, 52024 - Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Tel: 055 9172771<br />

Laterina Tourist Information Office<br />

Tel: 0575 880120 - Fax: 0575 894626<br />

comune@comune.laterina.ar.it<br />

Tourist Information,<br />

Municipality of Castiglion Fibocchi<br />

Tel: 0575 47484<br />

www.comune.castiglionfibocchi.ar.it<br />

UPT San Giovanni Valdarno<br />

Piazza Cavour, 3<br />

Tel: 055 943748 - Tel. e Fax: 055 9121123<br />

infovaldarno@apt.arezzo.it<br />

Municipality of Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

Tel: 0559194705<br />

Tourist Information Point<br />

Terranuova Bracciolini<br />

Tel: 055 9738828<br />

www.terraospitale.it<br />

infoturismovaldarno@gmail.com<br />

APT di Arezzo<br />

Piazza Risorgimento, 116<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575239523<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

apt@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it<br />

Infopoint di Arezzo<br />

Via Ricasoli - 52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575377829<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

Arezzo UIT (Tourist Information Office)<br />

Piazza della Repubblica, 28<br />

52100 Arezzo<br />

Tel: 0575 377678<br />

www.apt.arezzo.it<br />

info@arezzo.turismo.toscana.it


Bike Rentals<br />

Mille e una bici<br />

Service sponsored by the City of Florence<br />

in collaboration with Florence Parcheggi<br />

s.p.a. providing affordable bicycle rentals<br />

in Florence at 8 locations.<br />

Tel: 055 5001994<br />

Alinari<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via Guelfa, 85r - Tel: 055 280500<br />

www.alinarirental.com<br />

Florence by bike<br />

Bike and scooter rental<br />

Via S. Zanobi, 120/122r<br />

Tel. e Fax: 055 488992<br />

www.florencebybike.it<br />

Rent Way<br />

P.zza San Benendetto, 1/r<br />

50122 - Florence<br />

Tel: 0552398890 - Cell: 3339619820<br />

www.rentway.it<br />

info@rentway.it<br />

B&B Le Ortensie (Bike rental)<br />

Via Giovanni Maria Cecchi, 4<br />

50126 Florence<br />

Cell: 348 2644190<br />

www.leortensiebedandbreakfast.com<br />

liulamp@libero.it<br />

Le Civette Country Resort (Bike rental)<br />

Via del Carota, 3<br />

50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 698335 - Cell: 392 9441923<br />

www.lecivetteresort.it<br />

info@lecivetteresort.it<br />

Agriturismo Bellavista (Bike rental)<br />

Via Montelfi, 1<br />

50064 Incisa in Valdarno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8335143<br />

www.agriturismobellavista.com<br />

info@agriturismobellavista.com<br />

Agriturismo Valleverde (Bike rental)<br />

Via Montefalco, Località Buca dei Falchi<br />

52027 San Giovanni Valdarno (Arezzo)<br />

Tel: 055 943628 - Fax: 055 961804<br />

Cell: 335 1250857<br />

www.agriturismovalleverde.com<br />

info@agriturismovalleverde.com<br />

Campeggio Il Poggetto (Bike rental)<br />

Via Poggetto, 143<br />

50067 Rignano Sull’Arno (Florence)<br />

Tel: 055 8327323<br />

www.campingilpoggetto.com<br />

info@campingilpoggetto.com<br />

Events and fairs<br />

Arezzo<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Donato<br />

(7 August)<br />

Giostra del Saracino<br />

(June and September)<br />

Castelfranco di Sopra<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Tommaso<br />

(3 July)<br />

Castiglion Fibocchi<br />

Feast of the Madonna del Rosario<br />

(October)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Pietro e<br />

Paolo (29 June)<br />

Fiesole<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Romolo<br />

(6 July)<br />

San Francesco Fair<br />

(first Sunday of October)<br />

Laterina<br />

Feast of the Patron Saints, Santi Ippolito<br />

e Cassiano (18 August)<br />

Nativity scenes in Laterina (December)<br />

Laterina Ponticino<br />

Palio della rana (Last Sunday in June)<br />

Loro Ciuffenna<br />

Festa del Perdono (September)<br />

Loro Ciuffenna San Giustino<br />

Festa del Perdono (July)<br />

Pelago<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Clemente<br />

(23 November)<br />

Pian di Scò<br />

Festa del Perdono (4-8 August)<br />

Feast of the Assumption (15 August)<br />

Pontassieve<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Michele<br />

Arcangelo (29 September)<br />

San Lorenzo Fair (10 August)<br />

Palio della Botte (September)<br />

Reggello<br />

Rificolona (7 September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, San Jacopo,<br />

(25 July)<br />

Vaggio, near Reggello<br />

Festa del Perdono in Vaggio (July)<br />

Terranova Bracciolini<br />

Festa del Perdono (25-29 September)<br />

Feast of the Patron Saint, Sant’Antonio<br />

(13 June)<br />

263


www.vieromee.it<br />

€ 14,00

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