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May/June 2005<br />

Food For<br />

Thought<br />

Textile Ideas to<br />

Chew On<br />

· Ingredient<br />

Branding<br />

·<br />

Feel Good<br />

Fabricss<br />

Adventure Ventures<br />

Bee Dance<br />

Marketing


12<br />

18 28<br />

OUTDOOR TEXTILES 2006<br />

TALK TO THE HAND 12<br />

The aesthetic performance of fabrics won’t protect wearers from<br />

the elements, but whether combined with protective technology or<br />

flying solo, they aid in comfort level, style, versatility and durability.<br />

Literally a feel good story.<br />

By RJ Anderson<br />

NOT-SO-SECRET INGREDIENTS 18<br />

The brand visibility of component technology on retail merchandise<br />

can be an important leveraging tool for both manufacturers and<br />

their suppliers. Others would rather go it alone. Ultimately, does the<br />

customer really care?<br />

By Tony Jones<br />

BACK OFFICE<br />

DATA POINTS 34<br />

Some stats and figures that make you go, “Hmm…”<br />

By Martin Vilaboy<br />

GORP<br />

FAST, LIGHT AND OUT OF CONTROL 36<br />

Emergent signs of fast-pack marketing<br />

By Stuart Craig<br />

Letter from the Editors 6<br />

Retailers Report 8<br />

Rep Moves & News 10<br />

Advertiser Index 37<br />

THREADS & SPINS 26<br />

Outdoor textiles news and notes.<br />

FEATURE<br />

UPHILL CLIMB 28<br />

If you expect to gain revenue by adding an adventure travel component<br />

to your retail business, you better be in it for the long haul.<br />

By Lou Dzierzak<br />

The Legend of Dagda Mor<br />

Dagda, “The Good God,” is an Irish earth and father god,<br />

leader of the ancient Celtic tribe Tuathe De Danann, or People<br />

of Dana. A master of magic, the Dagda possessed both superhuman<br />

strength and appetite. Among his wealth were an<br />

enormous club that could both destroy and restore life and a<br />

great cauldron that provided an inexhaustible supply of food.<br />

He called the seasons into being with his harp and, from the<br />

cauldron of his plenty, fed the entire earth.<br />

A fearsome warrior and artisan, the Dagda has been<br />

resurrected by the founders of INSIDE OUTDOOR to protect<br />

and guide the publication as well as its fellowship of readers.<br />

Powerful, wise, authoritative, generous and unafraid of mischief,<br />

the Dagda will appear from time to time in INSIDE OUTDOOR to<br />

inspire, teach, amuse and occasionally cause trouble.


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Penny Pinching<br />

Behold the power of the penny. For all<br />

that it lacks in physical might, the penny<br />

Thus, any additions to these types of<br />

pricing models resonate exponentially<br />

more than makes up for incrementally across the number of consumers<br />

and conceptually as our root of economic<br />

exchange. It is more powerful as an<br />

intangible unit of measure than a zincfilled<br />

piece of legal tender. You know this<br />

to be true, if you’ve ever fantasized about<br />

receiving a penny from every person in<br />

America. No doubt a quick $2.96 million<br />

would fill out the old savings account<br />

quite nicely, no matter how long or how<br />

many penny rolls it would take to cash<br />

it in.<br />

affected by the increases. There’s no<br />

better example (or hotter topic) than<br />

our current flogging at the gasoline<br />

pump. Although early indicators in the<br />

first week of May showed that national<br />

gas prices were down from a record<br />

$2.28 per gallon in mid-April, we are<br />

still paying, on average, 39 cents more<br />

per gallon than at this time last year,<br />

according to the Energy Information<br />

Administration.<br />

Regular Gasoline Prices<br />

240<br />

Tony C. Jones<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

tony@dagdamor.com<br />

Gary Kim<br />

Executive Editor<br />

garykim@concentric.net<br />

Ben Folkerstma<br />

Creative Leader<br />

ben@dagdamor.com<br />

Martin Vilaboy<br />

Founding Editor<br />

martin@dagdamor.com<br />

Ernest Shiwanov<br />

Editor at Large<br />

ernest@dagdamor.com<br />

Editorial Contributors:<br />

R.J. Anderson, Stuart Craig,<br />

Lou Dzierzak, Brian Hewitt<br />

Jennifer Vilaboy<br />

Production Director<br />

jen@dagdamor.com<br />

Berge Kaprelian<br />

Publisher<br />

berge@dagdamor.com<br />

Cents per gallon<br />

220<br />

200<br />

180<br />

160<br />

140<br />

Jun Sep Dec Mar Jun<br />

2003-04 2004-05<br />

Source: Energy Information Administration<br />

DAGDA MOR MEDIA<br />

Robert C. Titsch<br />

President & CEO<br />

Gary Kim<br />

Chief Operating Officer<br />

Deborah Dellisanti<br />

Executive Vice President<br />

Becky Pennington<br />

Vice President/Finance<br />

Corporate Headquarters<br />

Schools regularly hold penny drives<br />

based on this concept and do quite well,<br />

thank you. Moreover, there are volumebased<br />

industries that are built on the<br />

concept of the penny. The photocopier<br />

business, for example, is predicated on cost<br />

per copy averages that in many instances<br />

are less than a penny. Similarly, our friends<br />

in the gasoline industry have long exploited<br />

the value of an extra nine-tenths of a cent.<br />

The return from high-volume business in<br />

these cases certainly adds up.<br />

The ripple affect across our national<br />

consumer base is staggering. “The<br />

consumer is responsible for 70 percent<br />

of the economy, and every additional<br />

penny at the pump takes $1.5 billion<br />

out of people’s pockets,” offers Merrill<br />

Lynch analyst Rich Bernstein in the April<br />

4 edition of Fortune magazine. Moreover,<br />

Bernstein says the 32-cent rise in<br />

gasoline futures experienced in March<br />

equated to a $48 billion tax increase.<br />

If I have a 17-gallon tank and fill up<br />

21001 N. Tatum Blvd.<br />

Suite 1630-449<br />

Phoenix, AZ 85050<br />

480.203.2513<br />

480.203.2514<br />

fatpipe@dagdamor.com<br />

www.dagdamor.com<br />

Editorial Offices<br />

INSIDE OUTDOOR<br />

1405 E. Campus Dr.<br />

Tempe, AZ 85282<br />

480.820.5676<br />

outdoor@dagdamor.com<br />

www.insideoutdoor.com


my car twice per month, an extra 39<br />

cents per gallon means that I likely have<br />

$13.26 less to spend elsewhere each<br />

month than I did last year and reduces my<br />

potential spending by nearly $160 for the<br />

year. Apply that to the outdoor recreation<br />

pool of 145 million participants the<br />

Outdoor Industry Association tells us we<br />

had in 2003, and we’re talking $1.92<br />

billion less a month in available funds<br />

and a potential loss of $23.2 billion in<br />

spending power for the year. Outdoor<br />

retailers would likely have garnered only<br />

a small percentage of these dollars, but<br />

the amount of money lost at the pump is<br />

readily apparent.<br />

How such incremental price changes<br />

actually affect overall consumer spending<br />

depends on many factors, but some<br />

indicators hint that consumers may<br />

be inclined to watch their pennies, if<br />

you’ll pardon the pun. Overall consumer<br />

confidence fell 5.1 percent between March<br />

and April, with expectations also declining<br />

6.9 percent, according to the Conference<br />

Board’s Consumer Confidence Index. The<br />

fact is that outdoor specialty retailers not<br />

only rely on discretionary spending for<br />

sales of gear and apparel, the industry<br />

as a whole is reliant upon enthusiasts’<br />

ability and desire to travel to recreation<br />

destinations to put that gear to use.<br />

On the positive side, general<br />

consumers seem to be less reactionary<br />

to ping-ponging gas prices than a year or<br />

even six months ago, although this could<br />

be simply a byproduct of having dealt with<br />

volatile pricing during the last 12 months<br />

and already adjusting their purchasing<br />

behaviors. Still, the number of shoppers<br />

traveling to stores closer to their homes<br />

in order to reduce driving distance is down<br />

from 43 percent last May to 35 percent<br />

in March, according to Retail Forward<br />

ShopperScape. Likewise, the number of<br />

consumers changing their vacation plans<br />

to reduce driving distance was at 13<br />

percent in March, down from 20 percent<br />

last May. ShopperScape also indicates,<br />

though, that 38 percent of shoppers are<br />

planning to change their driving behavior<br />

if gas prices remain high, which is up 8<br />

percent from last August.<br />

Traveler sentiment also seems to<br />

be up according to first quarter results<br />

released by the Travel Industry Association<br />

of America. Overall sentiment is up 2.5<br />

percent from the fourth quarter of 2004,<br />

while the ability to travel for pleasure based<br />

on personal finances is up 6.7 percent from<br />

last quarter. The affordability index is up<br />

3.5 percent from last quarter but is lagging<br />

12.3 percent from a year ago.<br />

This isn’t too surprising considering<br />

the TIA Travel Price Index at the end<br />

of March showed that the overall cost<br />

of travel is up 5.6 percent compared<br />

to a year ago. For its part, the price of<br />

gasoline jumped 16.9 percent compared<br />

to last March and was up 15.4 percent<br />

from the beginning of the year.<br />

One saving grace is that these travel<br />

figures are based on general consumers<br />

and not necessarily core outdoor<br />

enthusiasts. Outdoor recreation for many<br />

is both a lifestyle and a hobby, meaning<br />

the emotional attachment and value<br />

placed on recreational pursuits and their<br />

accompanying gear ranks much higher for<br />

them than the average Joe. As disposable<br />

income tightens, consumers still have a<br />

tendency to scrape together money to<br />

purchase items and experiences that they<br />

find fulfilling and equate with happiness.<br />

So while an occasional hiker may<br />

choose to spend discretionary dollars<br />

on a CD rather than a new pair of socks,<br />

chances are your core customers will<br />

continue to invest in outdoor products,<br />

albeit a few pennies less. – TJ


Retailers Report<br />

Consolidation Prize<br />

This month we ask: How has vendor consolidation affected the<br />

relationships you have with your suppliers? Have you experienced<br />

some positives, such as broader product lines under a single brand<br />

and perhaps lower prices? What about negatives, such as less flexibility<br />

in placing orders (lead times, quantities) and a switch in customer<br />

service from a personal touch to a colder corporate approach?<br />

Northeast<br />

“Honestly, consolidation hasn’t really<br />

changed anything with us,” says Dede Clapp,<br />

general operations manager at Bob Smith’s<br />

Wilderness Shop, a 17,000-square-foot<br />

standalone outdoor specialty store located<br />

just outside of Boston, whose doors have been<br />

open for more than 100 years. “I’m thinking of some of the bigger<br />

mergers, like Marmot and a lot of the snowsports companies as<br />

examples, and they’re all still operating as separate entities.<br />

“So depending on what you’re buying, you’re still dealing with<br />

the smaller segment of the larger overall company,” adds Clapp.<br />

“Nothing has really changed, but who knows what will happen<br />

down the road as they integrate a little more.”<br />

“So far it has had only minor effects,” says Mitch Osur,<br />

owner of Snow Country, a 9,000-square-foot specialty retail<br />

shop in Pittsford, N.Y., located 10 miles east of Rochester. “But<br />

I’d underline the term ‘so far.’<br />

“With most of the companies we deal with there haven’t been<br />

any major changes,” he adds. “In fact, I was talking to my Marmot<br />

rep the other day about it and he said, ‘If someone hadn’t told<br />

me we were bought out by K2, I would have no idea anything has<br />

changed. The company is running just like it always has.’”<br />

However, as vendor consolidations continue, Osur is wary<br />

of where specialty shops may fall within each vendor’s dealer<br />

pecking order. His concerns include potential ramifications<br />

of applying economies of scale, which could affect customer<br />

service, expanded territories for reps, shipping time, pricing and<br />

discounts for larger competitors.<br />

“A big concern is that the deliveries could start to become<br />

a disaster, especially now that smaller retailers are being a<br />

little more conservative and depending more on reordering and<br />

special orders,” he adds. “For example, one of our vendors used<br />

to be very good with deliveries, but now that they are so big and<br />

owned by such a big company, if you place a special order, you<br />

might get it in two weeks. By comparison, if I’m dealing with<br />

a small company and I place an order today, it will get here<br />

tomorrow.” RJ<br />

Southeast<br />

Vendor consolidation has left Bobby McCain<br />

with mixed emotions. McCain, owner of 19-yearold<br />

Buffalo Park Outfitters, a 5,700-square-foot<br />

specialty retailer housed in an upscale shopping<br />

center in Jackson, Miss. says, “One of the fun<br />

things about this industry that I really miss is<br />

dealing with small, independent, entrepreneur-driven businesses,<br />

which are becoming few and far between. Sometimes the smaller<br />

companies that are gobbled up lose some of the charm and the<br />

identity that made them appealing.”<br />

In particular, McCain says consolidation seems to be driving the<br />

paddlesports industry toward becoming “one big company.”<br />

“On the flipside, there are some cases in which smaller companies<br />

aren’t equipped to grow on their own, and the larger companies<br />

come in and improve the operational aspects, improvements that<br />

otherwise probably wouldn’t have happened,” adds McCain, citing<br />

Columbia Sportswear’s acquisition of Mountain Hardwear as a<br />

positive example. “I’ve seen reduced prices and samples arriving<br />

on an earlier basis.<br />

“But it’s really a case-by-case scenario, and the success really<br />

depends on the company in the acquisition mode,” continues<br />

McCain. “Some, like Columbia, have their act together and really<br />

improve the companies they acquire. VF acquiring The North Face is<br />

another example of that. It’s been great seeing the turnaround with<br />

The North Face since that acquisition.”<br />

Chuck Walker, general manager of Rockfish Gap Outfitters, a<br />

standalone 6,000-square-foot specialty retail shop in Waynesboro,<br />

Va., says he hasn’t really noticed any change in dealing with<br />

vendors affected through mergers and acquisitions. “For example,<br />

with Watermark and Yakima coming together, none of the potential<br />

negatives that could have arisen have been an issue,” he says,<br />

adding that placing orders hasn’t been any easier or more difficult.<br />

“It’s pretty much the same for both preseason ordering and when<br />

doing fill-ins.<br />

“That said, from my position, it is a positive,” adds Walker. RJ<br />

Rockies<br />

Susan Lambert, manager at Active Endeavors,<br />

a three-year-old 3,000-square-foot action sports<br />

boutique in Boulder, Colo.’s Pearl Street Pedestrian<br />

Mall, says her store hasn’t noticed any changes<br />

resulting from vendor consolidation. “There really<br />

hasn’t been much of an effect on us in terms of customer service or<br />

pricing or anything like that,” she says.<br />

8 |IO May|June 2005


David Goodman, owner of Mountain Miser, a specialty retail<br />

shop in South Denver, also says that not much has changed in<br />

terms of working with vendors. “Nobody is easier to deal with after<br />

consolidation,” says Goodman. “But we haven’t found anybody to be<br />

worse to deal with either.”<br />

Business logistics aside, Goodman does believe that once a<br />

company gets too large, they have a hard time remaining true to the<br />

“specialty” component of outdoor specialty. “Now with everybody<br />

owning everybody, what used to be specialty is even less so,” he<br />

says. “As a result, we’re constantly looking for the next special thing,<br />

which is the way it’s always been.” RJ<br />

Northwest<br />

Northwest specialty retailers in general<br />

say that vendor consolidation goes against<br />

the grain of the long-established specialty<br />

concept of small shop customer service<br />

and expertise.<br />

“Now more than ever, you’ve got little specialty companies that<br />

want to be bigger so they can be purchased by the conglomerates,”<br />

says Steve Teufert of Olympic Mountaineering in Port Angeles, Wash.<br />

“This industry didn’t used to be about the money. It used to be about<br />

the spirit of it all, about how cool it was to make something to help<br />

people climb Mount Olympus or put up a new climbing route in Index or<br />

crank tele turns in the back country. Now it’s about the homogenization<br />

of America. If this keeps up, pretty soon small specialty shops like<br />

ours will be forced to become just like big box chains or go out of<br />

business, and the customer will suffer if that happens.”<br />

“I’ve been in this business for over 20 years,” says one senior<br />

staffer at a small specialty shop in Boise, Idaho, “and I can tell<br />

you that the consolidation of the past five years has really caused<br />

vendor customer service to change, compared to the old days.<br />

Some of them just don’t know their product like they used to. And<br />

some of them have ‘timed’ allotments for each call. It’s ridiculous<br />

and doesn’t seem like you’re calling in to an actual outdoor<br />

industry business.”<br />

“We’re small. We run lean and mean, and money is always tight,”<br />

says an owner of a small independent climbing gym/specialty<br />

store in the Northwest. “With consolidation, a huge disadvantage<br />

for us is that we now have one accounts payable where we used to<br />

have three or maybe four accounts for the same products. You can’t<br />

shuffle your payable priorities very well when you have one big bill<br />

versus three or four smaller bills. Before consolidation it was easier<br />

to strategize cash flow in lean times.”<br />

This owner also says he feels as though his store is always<br />

under threat of being dropped by conglomerates for not meeting<br />

yearly dollar minimums. He contends that was not a factor when<br />

dealing with some vendors prior to being acquired. BH<br />

Southwest<br />

“Vendor consolidation has been great for<br />

us,” says a supervisor at the Albuquerque<br />

REI. “It has helped the way we do business<br />

and interact with vendors. When vendors<br />

consolidate it’s nice to have one payable instead of five when you<br />

operate with regional accounting for your store. It makes it simpler.<br />

Shipping turn times have gotten better with some of the smaller<br />

brand names that used to be slow.”<br />

This positive perception is not the case with some smaller stores.<br />

“I don’t like it one bit,” says a long time buyer at a small specialty<br />

shop in Sedona, Ariz. “The new large-company customer service can<br />

come across as detached, compared to how it used to be, and strict<br />

changes in billing practices can make it difficult to juggle finances<br />

sometimes. When you need it, there’s not much accommodation for<br />

long-standing relationships with a given brand.”<br />

Staff at a self-described “hardcore” shop in Dallas say that some<br />

of their favorite reps have been casualties of consolidation, severing<br />

what had been pleasurable business relationships: “The products<br />

are still available, but the familiar reps are gone. Sometimes after a<br />

small vendor is acquired someone new is assigned to the territory,<br />

and much of the time our employees aren’t real receptive to these<br />

new corporate reps. They were used to reps blowing into town and<br />

setting up climbing trips with them. Then suddenly someone new<br />

selling the same brand shows up and tries to high-pressure everyone<br />

into buying more, more, more. It doesn’t come off so well.”<br />

Adventure 16 in Costa Mesa, Calif., has rolled with the waves of<br />

consolidation. Says one staffer: “I see improvements in marketing<br />

from some of these small brands that suddenly have a big engine<br />

behind them. This improves public perception of the product, and we<br />

get heightened interest and increased sales as a result.” BH<br />

Rep Moves and News<br />

Wenonah Canoe/Current Designs has named Peter Whaley<br />

as its Eastern Canadian representative. Whaley’s territory includes<br />

Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland, New Brunswick, Prince Edward<br />

Islands and Nova Scotia …<br />

TrailHeads announced several additions to its sales team. Mark<br />

Charpentier, formerly national sales manager of Cannondale Corp., is<br />

director of sales. In addition, Jackson Cyr, Matt Kabza and Libby Bliss<br />

from Action Sales have joined the TrailHeads sales team to represent<br />

the Pacific Northwest. Matthew Cox will service northern California,<br />

and Kenneth Miner will sell in Colorado and New Mexico …<br />

Indigo Equipment has retained three sales representatives to<br />

10|IO May|June 2005<br />

cover its New England and Pacific Northwest territories. Velocity<br />

Sales, founded by partners Michael Schmidt and Bill Bruzzese,<br />

represent Indigo in Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts,<br />

Rhode Island, Connecticut and Maine. In the Pacific Northwest,<br />

Indigo added Mike Burns to cover northern California, Oregon,<br />

Idaho and Montana. Burns was hired in conjunction with the Alta<br />

Group, which represents Indigo in Washington, Alaska and British<br />

Columbia. In addition to Indigo, Velocity Sales also represents<br />

K2 telemark skis, Garmont, Jetboil and Nikwax. The Alta Group<br />

also represents Atomic Nordic and telemark skis, Petzl and Sea<br />

to Summit.


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www.wynit.com<br />

© 2005 WYNIT, Inc. All rights reserved. The WYNIT logo is a registered trademark of WYNIT, Inc. All other trademarks and registered trademarks are used to benefit and without intent to infringe on their respective mark holders.


T a l k t o t h e H a n d<br />

S p e a k i n g t o a e s t h e t i c<br />

p e r f o r m a n c e<br />

by R.J. Anderson<br />

Over the last few seasons the<br />

outdoor industry fashion<br />

market has undergone a certain degree<br />

of trend swapping with its mainstream<br />

cousins. As the function of outdoor<br />

technology has integrated the demands<br />

of mainstream fashionistas, savvy<br />

outdoor shoppers have come to expect<br />

more aesthetic appeal from their favorite<br />

outdoor brands.<br />

“We design with the concept of<br />

adding fashion to function, which is key<br />

for the outdoor market, but those same<br />

designs also cross over into the broader<br />

mainstream market,” says Kevin<br />

Williams, sales and marketing manager<br />

at Coville Inc, a Winston-Salem, N.C.-<br />

based design, marketing and conversion<br />

company for specialty knitted fabrics.<br />

“Both markets are evolving at the same<br />

time, and the two different crowds end<br />

up liking the same thing. It’s interesting<br />

the way it’s all gelling and coming<br />

together at the same time.”


BE THERE.


From finishing techniques to the basic design of the fabrics, outdoor<br />

fabric suppliers and apparel manufacturers are stepping up their game<br />

to feed this increased consumer appetite, and they are moving quickly to<br />

up their market ante. Gone are the days of cardboard-feeling synthetic<br />

fabrics and stinky polypropylenes, today’s specialty outdoor clothing<br />

racks are filled with all sorts of technology enhanced by aesthetic<br />

improvements. From the obvious, such as increases in natural fiber usage<br />

and blending, to the more discreet, such as using piece dyes in place of<br />

yarn dyes, outdoor gear is looking and feeling more like fashions found<br />

in upscale department stores.<br />

Coville has been at recent outdoor trade shows exhibiting a new<br />

line of bi-component fabric that is a lightweight double knit featuring<br />

stretch polypropylene on one side and stretch nylon on the other. The<br />

polypropylene worn against the skin offers the wearer antimicrobial<br />

benefits, odor control, moisture wicking and temperature regulation,<br />

says Williams, while the nylon provides softness and durability.<br />

The yarns are not a microdenier, he says, but they have similar benefits.<br />

“You don’t have to go all the way to a microdenier to get a great hand,”<br />

notes Williams. “That they are made from stretch yarns as opposed to<br />

spandex adds to the softness because of the way the yarns bulk.”<br />

The Demand for Hand<br />

One company that is doing its share to soften fabric technology is<br />

Malden Mills. Recently, the Massachusetts-based company switched<br />

many of its high loft fabrics from a yarn dye to a piece dye approach.<br />

Company spokesperson Nate Simmons says the improvements have<br />

created a softer glide, which eases layering and reduces bunching while<br />

offering what he calls a “super-luxurious touch.”<br />

Another benefit is that Malden’s fabrics will be available in smaller<br />

quantities, allowing more companies to offer more styles and colors.<br />

“The Mountain Hardwear Poodle Hoody is a great example of this<br />

fabric’s success,” says Simmons. “It has been hugely successful in core<br />

outdoor and has reached a very broad audience too.”<br />

An apparel manufacturer firmly entrenched in the middle of the<br />

fashion and technology integration trend is Royal Robbins. With a<br />

breadth of product that addresses the fashion-into-function angle, as<br />

well as the function-into-fashion elements, Royal Robbins is updating<br />

the feel and features of the fabrics the company uses.<br />

“We are working with Schoeller on their 3XDry to incorporate<br />

that into a very quick-drying performance cotton product,” says Diane<br />

Gallagher, product manager at Royal Robbins. “And we worked with<br />

Invista using some of their Teflon stain repellant finishes on synthetics as<br />

well as applying them to some more technical, synthetic bottom-weight<br />

fabrics.”<br />

In addition, Gallagher says Royal Robbins is also incorporating<br />

elasterell-p into denim. “Denim is very strong in the market right<br />

now, and we’ve got a really great functional denim which, because of<br />

the elasterell-p, incorporates stretch and wicking properties,” she says.<br />

“As we go into <strong>Spring</strong> 2006, another one of the functional features we<br />

are including is a core-spun, polyester wicking fiber that is coated with<br />

cotton so that it has the hand of cotton.”<br />

“The hand demand continues to be strong every season,” says Coville’s<br />

Williams. “The retailer and the consumer always want something softer<br />

so there’s a lot of focus in the manufacturing part of the supply chain to<br />

find ways to make a product softer and softer.”<br />

Softness, in many instances, is being accomplished through the use<br />

of microfiber yarns, higher filament counts in the yarn and knitting<br />

techniques, he says.<br />

“There also has been a bit of a return back to plain surfaces, which<br />

are naturally softer than textures,” adds Williams.<br />

Finishing techniques also can enhance the hand, whether face<br />

finishing, knapping or sueding, he says. “There are also some silicone<br />

finishes that are hydrophilic, meaning that you can put those on the fabric<br />

to give them a nice hand, but they won’t interfere with performance<br />

features like wicking and antimicrobial,” continues Williams.<br />

14|IO May|June 2005<br />

The Poodle Hoody from Mountain Hardwear<br />

Coville offers its bi-component group in three stitch types. There is a<br />

pointelle targeted primarily at women’s wear, a textured filament group<br />

designed to be a little more masculine, and a plain surface double knit.<br />

Another company reacquainting itself with the outdoor trade show<br />

circuit is American Fibers & Yarns Co., which is working to reposition<br />

its performance apparel fiber, Innova. “Through proprietary texturing<br />

techniques, Innova combines the hand and aesthetics of cotton, rayon<br />

and acrylic but with added inherent performance characteristics,”<br />

says Tracey Welch, market development manager for AF&Y. “With<br />

those techniques we can create softer, more colorful and more versatile<br />

garments, from casual apparel to athletic wear and outdoor apparel.”<br />

The fiber, which is used in woven and knitted goods, including<br />

socks, sweaters, jeans, thermals/base layers and fleece garments, touts<br />

aesthetic benefits that include pill resistance, stain and fade resistance and<br />

antimicrobial properties. “Innova is not topically treated so its performance<br />

benefits are inherent in the yarn,” adds Welch. “And garments made with<br />

Innova can be cleaned safely with chlorine bleach.”


Envying Green<br />

While comfort and feel certainly are important to pushing fabric and<br />

apparel, many apparel manufacturers are promoting fabrics that are easy<br />

to care for, something AF&Y speaks to with the bleach-friendliness of<br />

Innova. Kavu, which primarily uses wash-and-wear fabrics in its clothing<br />

lines, continues this trend with garments constructed with a Bamboo<br />

viscose blend, which the company introduced for <strong>Spring</strong> 2005.<br />

Bamboo provides the durable, broken-in hand Kavu customers<br />

expect, along with adding a component suitable for designing for the<br />

dressed-up consumer. “With the bamboo women’s pieces, we had<br />

this nice dressy, lineny, almost Asian-type fabric feel to it, and those<br />

characteristics influenced how we designed around it,” says Jodi Barr,<br />

Kavu marketing manager.<br />

Aesthetic Characteristics of Popular Synthetic Fibers<br />

Acetate<br />

Acrylic<br />

Lyocell<br />

Microfibers<br />

PLA Fiber<br />

(corn-based)<br />

Polyester<br />

Rayon<br />

Spandex<br />

Triacetate<br />

Source: FabricLink.com<br />

“When we’re designing we’re trying to target an audience interested<br />

in wash and wear,” adds Barr. “I was talking to one of our athletes and<br />

he said, ‘It’s amazing, but over the last year or so, I’ve become a buttondown<br />

shirt guy.’ And that now seems to be a demand from consumers.<br />

They want to be able to get away with wearing outdoor clothing brands<br />

at work.<br />

“We want them to be able to wear our products, look presentable,<br />

then throw it in the washer and dryer and wear it again without any<br />

added care,” continues Barr. “As an outdoor clothing company, we have<br />

to set ourselves apart from the Gap, Banana Republic and those places,<br />

and the best way to that is with the fabrics we use.”<br />

And as usual, it is key for that separation to be communicated on<br />

the retail sales floor. When a sales associate finds a customer looking at<br />

the product, it helps if the employee tells the story behind the fabric.<br />

For instance, when customers are holding a bamboo viscose piece, Barr<br />

suggests something as simple as, “Hey, check this out, it’s bamboo. The<br />

care is really easy because it’s wash and dry. And since bamboo is porous,<br />

it is breathable and wicking which makes it great for traveling.”<br />

And if it’s a fabric that will appeal to an eco-conscious consumer,<br />

a sales associate shouldn’t hold back any information about a fabric’s<br />

origins. “Like with our bamboo,” adds Barr, “we hope they’ll let the<br />

customer know that bamboo is a low-impact, readily available and<br />

renewable resource.”<br />

16|IO May|June 2005<br />

On the Same Page<br />

Luxurious appearance, crisp or soft hand; dyes and prints well; excellent<br />

drape; pill resistant<br />

Soft, wool-like hand; excellent color fastness; resists wrinkles and<br />

shrinkage; excellent pleat retention; flexible aesthetics<br />

Soft hand; resists wrinkles; excellent drape; dyes and prints well<br />

Finer than silk; extremely drapeable; very soft, luxurious hand; excellent<br />

pleat retention; available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon<br />

Similar in appearance and hand to cotton; excellent drape<br />

Crisp, soft hand; resists shrinking; excellent pleat retention<br />

Soft hand; drapes well; dyes and prints well; resists static and pilling<br />

Stretch and recovery; smooth, supple hand; static and pill resistant<br />

Luxurious hand; excellent drape; excellent pleat retention; pill resistant<br />

Whether supplementing function with fashion or implementing<br />

function into fashion, it is imperative for apparel vendors to have<br />

unencumbered dialogue with their fabric and fiber-distributing<br />

partners as they pursue desired techno-fashion mediums. At Royal<br />

Robbins, which offers a wide product base that works with both<br />

synthetic and natural fibers, working closely with its suppliers has<br />

been a key element to their success.<br />

“When we’re concepting, we look at where we want to be at the<br />

end, and that generally starts on the fabric side,” says Gallagher.<br />

“In many cases we work with fiber suppliers and fabric mills as they<br />

develop new methods of finishing. On CoolMax jersey fabric, we<br />

worked with the yarn supplier to get the right blend so that it has a<br />

hand that feels like cotton, while also<br />

incorporating the CoolMax function.<br />

“We work with companies as they<br />

are developing so we can give them our<br />

feedback on how it would be utilized<br />

in our industry,” adds Gallagher.<br />

“We also give them direction on what<br />

fabric mills to use to incorporate and<br />

commercialize some of their fabrics<br />

and finishes.”<br />

At Kavu, Barr says the company’s<br />

designers are always on the lookout for<br />

cool, new natural fabrics. “Suppliers<br />

will offer up some examples and we<br />

might say, ‘That’s great, but for it to<br />

work for us, it needs to be sturdier,<br />

or we need it with a different type of<br />

blend or a certain weight,’” she says.<br />

“A lot times we go back and forth<br />

and often nothing happens … but we’re really excited about the<br />

bamboo because this is one time we got the right blend and the<br />

right way to use it.”<br />

Driving the Markets<br />

The outdoor apparel market originally developed with the male<br />

consumer in mind. Enthusiasts were locked into shopping for<br />

specialty outdoor apparel that contained only the most cutting-edge<br />

technical design with little regard for how it looked or how soft<br />

it felt. But as the years have passed, outdoor apparel has evolved<br />

from its backcountry beginnings to a product category that finds<br />

itself upping its contribution to, if not driving, increasingly high<br />

expectations for function in mainstream fashion—for men, women<br />

and kids. You see it on hiking trails and golf courses, at outdoor<br />

concerts and in your local coffee shop.<br />

“Identifying market segmentation is very important, as is knowing<br />

the consumer,” says Coville’s Williams. “There is an evolution going<br />

on in the apparel market. Five, six, seven years ago you didn’t see as<br />

much performance in the mainstream market as you do today, which<br />

speaks to the transition and growth of performance. It’s important<br />

not only for the apparel people to recognize it but also the fabric<br />

people. We need to answer that demand and be focused on product<br />

development that speaks to that demand.” IO


E X P E R I E N C E T H E<br />

S P E C I A LT Y FA B R I C S I N D U S T R Y<br />

S a n A n t o n i o , T e x a s • O c t ober 2 7–29, 2005<br />

Including:<br />

FABRIC STRUCTURES 2005 AND TEXTILES & GRAPHICS 2005<br />

For information about attending<br />

or exhibiting at IFAI Expo 2005<br />

visit www.ifaiexpo.info<br />

Industrial Fabrics Association International<br />

1801 County Road B W., Roseville, MN 55113 USA


Not-so-Secret Ingredients<br />

What is the value of component co-branding?<br />

by Tony Jones<br />

In<br />

the race and clamor for market position and consumer<br />

investment, the size of your pie slice is often determined either<br />

by one’s personal fortune and fame or by the quality of the company you<br />

keep. Campbell’s Soup, IBM and Pepsi are household brands that command<br />

attention in their own right, without much pretense or concern from consumers<br />

as to how they are made or what technically differentiates them from their<br />

competitors. Conversely, in order to gain market leverage, lesser-known<br />

brands often turn to the strength of their technology partners in component<br />

co-branding efforts that leverage the value of partnership in promoting the<br />

end-consumer brand alongside a key element in that product’s construction.<br />

This type of ingredient branding is almost always a boost to component<br />

partners, which often exist in fiercely competitive and crowded “behindthe-scenes”<br />

environments. Positive consumer recognition for a component<br />

brand allows that supplier to leverage its position against competitors, which<br />

potentially means commanding premium pricing for its services and increased<br />

demand from other product manufacturers.<br />

The two best examples of this are probably Intel and NutraSweet.<br />

NutraSweet was introduced in 1981 by Monsanto and watched its consumer<br />

brand trust skyrocket after it secured visibility through Coca-Cola and Pepsi.<br />

Within six years, it had produced annual revenues of nearly $850 million<br />

and is now used in more than 3,000 food and beverage brands, according to<br />

Intangible Business, a brand valuation and development consulting firm.<br />

Intel, on the other hand, took its case directly to retailers and consumers<br />

by way of some 200 OEM partners, launching the “Intel Inside” campaign<br />

in 1991. In the midst of a blossoming PC market, Intel’s campaign created a<br />

point of differentiation whereby its message became associated with consumerperceived<br />

quality and reliability. Within four years of exposing its European<br />

markets to the “Intel Inside” campaign, Intel’s consumer recognition<br />

ballooned from 24 percent to 94 percent, according to a case study published<br />

by Intangible Business. In 2001, Intel was listed as the sixth most valuable<br />

brand in the world, with an estimated brand value of $35 billion.


Textile Tech<br />

These business models certainly are not lost on the players inside the<br />

world of textiles and outdoor products. After failing to trademark nylon<br />

as a brand and losing it to the purveyors of generic commodities, DuPont<br />

is credited by many as being among the first to pioneer the concept of<br />

component branding. As a result, Lycra and CoolMax are among the most<br />

well-known textile components recognized by consumers worldwide. In<br />

the outdoor industry, the list of relevant DuPont-created brand names is<br />

particularly impressive when you also consider that Thermolite, Cordura,<br />

Supplex and Tactel originated from the same supplier.<br />

firm based in the United Kingdom.<br />

Noting that this can vary by region, Penman says, “Lycra has a 50<br />

to 100 percent premium over other elastomerics in Europe but only 10<br />

to 15 percent in the United States.” A portion of Lycra’s extraordinary<br />

success in Europe could have resulted from an aggressive $30 million<br />

global advertising campaign that DuPont launched in 1999 to reinforce<br />

the brand and reach a broader audience. Also of note, reports Penman,<br />

was a successful Woolmark campaign that allowed the company to<br />

command nearly twice the price of competing fibers based “solely on<br />

its image.”<br />

The “World of Extremes” – a polarizing marketplace<br />

Growth and perceived customer value<br />

Customers seek low cost for basic<br />

goods with low emotional investment<br />

Mega-players capture market share by<br />

delivering “good enough” value at very<br />

low prices<br />

Mass<br />

Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />

To get an idea of what the component branding business is worth to our<br />

industry, consider that Koch Industries last year purchased these and other<br />

brands marketed under DuPont Textiles & Interiors for $4.2 billion. The<br />

former DuPont brands now share an impressive stable under the INVISTA<br />

name, alongside original KoSa brands like Polarguard and ESP.<br />

A successful ingredient branding strategy is an endless loop of ebb<br />

and flow between evaluation and validation. A component’s industry<br />

value can be determined by both trade and consumer demand, while<br />

that demand is created by trade and consumer perceptions of value<br />

added to an end product. When it works, the payoff can be lucrative<br />

because the value-add is typically in the form of functional features that<br />

improve a product’s technical performance, quality or aesthetics. This<br />

could mean softness provided through Tencel, stretch from Lycra or<br />

waterproof/breathable functionality by Gore-Tex.<br />

“Branded fibers in clothing can command high premiums usually<br />

between 20 to 50 percent, and sometimes higher, than their equivalent<br />

non-branded products,” writes Jessica Penman in a 2002 special focus<br />

report on textile branding for David Rigby Associates, a textile consulting<br />

20|IO May|June 2005<br />

“Bell curves”<br />

Undifferentiated<br />

competitors fade into<br />

irrelevance<br />

“Well curves”<br />

Competitive spectrum<br />

Elements that Impact Purchase Decisions<br />

Tangible Influences<br />

Intangible Factors<br />

Element Types<br />

Consumer wants and needs<br />

Consumer actions<br />

Competitor actions<br />

Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />

Consumer beliefs and emotions<br />

The Gore Point<br />

As with most textile discussions in the outdoor<br />

industry, the conversation inevitably circles around<br />

to Gore-Tex. This isn’t by accident. While outdoor<br />

products feature several noteworthy component<br />

brands, including Vibram, YKK and Polartec,<br />

none commands the general consumer recognition<br />

or trust enjoyed by Gore.<br />

While Vibram outsoles and Polartec fleece<br />

products are arguably the premium standards by<br />

which competitors in the market are compared,<br />

they simply have not burrowed their way into<br />

the public’s brand consciousness like Gore-Tex.<br />

Consider that in a 2004 Gallup poll conducted on<br />

behalf of Gore, 58 percent of respondents said they were aware of the<br />

Gore-Tex brand, and half of those said they had purchased a Gore-Tex<br />

product. If we are to believe the numbers, that means that more than 200<br />

million people in America are at least familiar with the brand. That’s a<br />

powerful stick to wield, and it slipped into the hands of W.L. Gore and<br />

Associates because it blazed a trail that parallels the success of brands<br />

like Intel.<br />

Frankly, if you’re going to be a successful component brand, it certainly<br />

helps to be the inventor of a category or the first to market it. But you<br />

also have to craft a product that works, capture demand and deliver. You<br />

also have to be marketing savvy, and Gore believed, like Intel, that the<br />

path to ultimate success begins right at the gate of consumer awareness,<br />

particularly backpacking and mountaineering enthusiasts.<br />

“Since there was not a lot of market inertia with consumers asking<br />

for something that they had<br />

no idea existed, we went to<br />

the consumer directly and<br />

Customers seek greater “personal<br />

value” when purchasing goods with<br />

high emotional importance<br />

Differentiated specialists build<br />

profitable niches by delivering relevant<br />

value to targeted groups of customers<br />

Specialized<br />

Examples<br />

told them the story and<br />

created that pull through,”<br />

says Steve Shuster, Gore-Tex<br />

brand manager. “In turn,<br />

that end consumer started<br />

going into their local retail<br />

or specialty shop and asking<br />

for this Gore-Tex fabric stuff<br />

they heard about.”<br />

Although it proved to be<br />

an expensive proposition, the<br />

idea worked. Retailers that<br />

were pressed about the fabric<br />

called manufacturers who, in turn, inquired to Gore about the technology.<br />

Landing The North Face as a licensee certainly went a long way toward<br />

building credibility, but Shuster says the real turning point was the<br />

initiation of Gore’s “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry” campaign in 1989.<br />

• Most preferred product features<br />

• Preferred information sources<br />

• Envisioning the best purchase within budget<br />

• Seeking new options and ideas<br />

• Setting product and service prices<br />

• Launching new marketing campaigns<br />

• Brand reputations of companies A, B and C<br />

• Emotional drivers for purchase


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“[Prior to the campaign] consumers were not satisfied,” recalls<br />

Shuster. “They were calling Gore saying they were getting wet and<br />

talking about it in terms of their ‘Gore-Tex jacket.’”<br />

To Gore, that meant consumers were equating the failure of a garment<br />

with the PTFE membrane instead of the manufacturer’s construction of<br />

the end product. Gore’s guarantee was initiated to preserve the integrity<br />

of the product, as well as strengthen its brand value.<br />

“We really had no other choice if we were going to be in this for the<br />

long haul,” says Shuster. “We developed end-performance specifications<br />

that really set us apart.”<br />

The result reinforced Gore’s pull-through model, increasing demand<br />

from would-be licensees and strengthened consumer belief in the<br />

technology. What we have today is a brand used as a point of reference<br />

by product manufacturers and retailers and a full-fledged trust mark<br />

with consumers.<br />

Elbow Room<br />

Gore’s lofty position doesn’t leave a lot of space for competitors<br />

to grab large portions of market share, and the company’s<br />

dominance is somewhat of a microcosm of occurrences within<br />

general consumer products as a whole. In a 2002 brand study<br />

published by IBM Business Consulting Services, analysts wrote,<br />

“It is estimated that just 150 SKUs in a household provide over 80<br />

percent of a family’s needs.” Moreover, new brands that enter the<br />

market have been slow to garner sales, and many struggle just to<br />

stay in business.<br />

“An IRI Information Resources study concluded that 80 percent<br />

of new brands’ year-one sales have been below $10 million and only 3<br />

percent have been over $50 million,” say IBM analysts. “Additionally, an<br />

analysis has shown that more than half of new products introduced in 20<br />

categories failed within two years of introduction.”<br />

That doesn’t mean there isn’t room for success. Competitors and<br />

their partners must be targeted and strategic, if not realistic, about the<br />

type and amount of business they believe they can win. A good start is to<br />

find a point of differentiation.<br />

“It’s very difficult to come up with your own proprietary type of<br />

technology and compete against Gore,” says one industry veteran.<br />

“Many people will try to approach it from a different angle, such as<br />

through coatings, so they are not competing head to head.”<br />

The real challenge is in creating demand. IBM analysts suggest<br />

companies become “either a manufacturing company or a branding<br />

company, and adopt an operating model that fits. Choosing brings<br />

consumer importance and retail leverage into greater clarity, and focuses<br />

resources on core capabilities and on the things that give competitive<br />

advantage.”<br />

Analysts suggest a back-to-basics grass-roots attitude, hitting the<br />

pavement in an attempt to earn a groundswell of consumer and retail<br />

support. Ultimately, IBM analysts say, competing brands have to move<br />

away from simply offering products and, instead, foster solutions that fill<br />

the life needs of consumers. Value is then placed on bundled products<br />

and services, co-branded products, brands that extend across categories<br />

and products that provide new benefits.<br />

This is potentially good news for textile components fighting for their<br />

fair share of the pie. In the tight waterproof/breathable space, eVENT<br />

has displayed some of this tenacity in winning support from European<br />

retailers and respected European product manufacturers like 66 o North


and Vaude. The company also has received consumer kudos domestically<br />

from independent gear heads, and in today’s realm of viral marketing,<br />

the worth of Internet-savvy early adopters spreading their good words<br />

via e-mail and blogs may prove to be invaluable.<br />

Still, these are small steps, and for any ingredient brand trying to<br />

make a name for itself and build value among consumers, retailers<br />

and manufacturers, the endeavor is a lengthy and expensive process.<br />

“Length of time is a function of investment,” says an industry insider.<br />

“If you wanted to do it all today and wanted to invest into some global<br />

ad campaigns that hit many different levels, you could certainly shorten<br />

the length of time. At the same time, though, you’re taking on a ton<br />

of risk.”<br />

Part of the danger is in placing resources. If a branding relationship<br />

is successful in one step of the push model with retailers, will it have<br />

the resources to pull customers into the stores? “Creating that perfect<br />

balance is so difficult because if you create tremendous sell-in and wind<br />

up with a ton of retail product on the floor that doesn’t sell out, it’s a big<br />

issue for the following year,” confides an industry source. “You lose a<br />

level of trust that is difficult to get back.”<br />

Name Game<br />

Much rests on the nature of the co-branding relationships. In all,<br />

there seems to be few drawbacks for component brands entering into an<br />

ingredient brand strategy with a product manufacturer. Partnering with<br />

an established brand with hangtags and logos on product is a virtual<br />

endorsement to the consumer by the host company that the component<br />

technology works, whether it’s an insulation, DWR coating or moisture<br />

management solution. Likewise, if the ingredient brand is well known to<br />

consumers, then a lesser known product brand benefits from perceived<br />

quality and credibility. Additional benefits can include shared production<br />

costs, promotions, advertising and research and development. For both<br />

parties it is strength by association, where the whole is greater than the<br />

sum of the parts.<br />

“Competition is so stiff out there that almost every product is a<br />

commodity, and if you’ve got a technological difference that can be<br />

twisted into a healthy branding story, then it’s a barrier to entry,” notes<br />

another industry veteran. “You can create a little more value there, and<br />

there’s not a lot of that when you’re talking about raw materials in terms<br />

of fibers and yarns.”<br />

But product manufacturers also can be leery of branding their names<br />

alongside a component that is widely used in an industry out of fear<br />

that the ingredient relationship will genericize the technology and, thus,<br />

weaken the product’s brand strength. The opposite side to that coin is<br />

what is at risk by not incorporating or promoting the use of a CoolMax<br />

or Lycra? If a component brand is well known and trusted among a<br />

majority of general consumers, then some customers may be suspicious<br />

as to why certain products wouldn’t include it as a component.<br />

Although IBM uses Intel’s microprocessors in some of its PCs, it does<br />

not actively market the relationship, and the familiar “Intel Inside” swirl<br />

that has helped bolster countless other computer brands does not appear<br />

on IBM products or packaging. IBM’s reasoning could be that it didn’t<br />

want to risk diluting its own brand strength by lumping itself with lesserknown<br />

brands that use the same Pentium chip technology.<br />

This is a legitimate fear among brands that view themselves as<br />

achieving premium status. In a report on ingredient branding published<br />

by Landor Associates, the consulting firm recalls a study conducted by<br />

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Research International in which consumers were shown several brands<br />

of chocolate chip cookies and asked if the addition of a premium brand<br />

of chocolate chips would increase the appeal of those cookie brands.<br />

While consumers believed the premium brand chips enhanced the<br />

value of middle-tier cookie brands, they thought the chips actually<br />

lessened the brand value of Pepperidge Farm. Consumers considered<br />

Pepperidge Farm to be a premium brand by itself and assumed that<br />

its cookies already contained the highest quality ingredients. “Instead<br />

of reinforcing consumers’ positive perceptions, the heralding of a new,<br />

premium ingredient actually generated consumer skepticism,” according<br />

to the Landor report.<br />

Stages of the Consumer Purchase Process<br />

Incubation<br />

stage<br />

Shopping and<br />

purchase stage<br />

Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />

Trigger<br />

stage<br />

Target decision:<br />

Choice of<br />

retailer<br />

Product<br />

selection<br />

In the outdoor industry, several major brands choose to tout “secret”<br />

ingredients in the form of proprietary components and technology, rather<br />

than promote an outside brand used by competitors. Not surprisingly, this<br />

occurs quite a bit within the waterproof/breathable and moisture management<br />

categories. Thus, consumers are treated to names like Helly Hansen’s Helly<br />

Tech, Columbia Sportswear’s OmniTech and Patagonia’s Capilene.<br />

Typical Fiber Brand Support Activities<br />

End-user Type<br />

Spinners, weavers,<br />

finishers and printers<br />

Garment manufacturers<br />

and retailers<br />

Consumers<br />

Source: David Rigby Associates<br />

Brand Support Activities<br />

Trade advertising<br />

Trend information<br />

Trade show attendance<br />

Trade show sponsorship<br />

Technical assistance<br />

New product development<br />

Point-of-sale material<br />

Trade advertising<br />

Post-purchase<br />

expectations<br />

stage<br />

Retailer info packs and education<br />

Fabric fairs<br />

Branding and quality assurance programs<br />

Swing tickets<br />

Explanatory leaflets<br />

In-store promotions<br />

Fashion magazine advertising<br />

Designer link-ups<br />

Billboards<br />

In each of these instances, the manufacturers’ names remain the topline<br />

focus and, in effect, position them as developers of sophisticated<br />

technology. With strong brand loyalty among their core customers, this<br />

likely bolsters their value. Interestingly enough, these brands and several<br />

others don’t exclude component brands entirely. Instead, they pick and<br />

choose to offer products and SKUs where they see strategic advantages<br />

to do so.<br />

Promoting a product brand without a component brand may also<br />

afford manufacturers complete control over the promotion of particular<br />

silhouettes and when and how a technology is used within a product.<br />

“Why be one of many?” asks a former industry veteran who has<br />

worked with several major brands. “Why not create your own technology<br />

if you’re going to spend that many dollars anyway?”<br />

For component suppliers, dealing with manufacturers that want<br />

to use their premium branded product but would rather not promote<br />

the component brand name, licensing negotiations can be a frustrating<br />

process.<br />

“Brand confusion, brand delusion is a critical issue,” asserts Shuster.<br />

“In today’s market, there is this explosion of waterproof/breathable as a<br />

kind of cost of entry. If it’s not waterproof/breathable, it’s very difficult<br />

to sell anything.<br />

“There’s a lot of confusion in the marketplace. We’re going to be<br />

taking a more aggressive approach,” he continues, noting that Gore<br />

will encourage consumers to look to its label for waterproof/breathable<br />

authenticity. “If we’re doing our job correctly, innovating and keeping<br />

the energy going into the brand, then our partners are going to want<br />

to use [the Gore-Tex brand] on the outside. If not, then we’ll have<br />

those discussions, and I’m not so sure how we’ll continue to have those<br />

relationships.”<br />

Consumer’s Choice<br />

The offshoot to all of this is what do end consumers care about? Are<br />

they more concerned with the performance of the component technologies<br />

or in the trust they’ve enlisted with a favorite manufacturer brand?<br />

Frankly, it’s difficult to tell. Industry veterans contacted for this<br />

story were split on what is currently driving consumer decisions.<br />

“The [primary] brand name is the first thing they look for to<br />

determine if they’re loyal to that brand or can identify with that brand,”<br />

offers one insider who believes component brands are becoming less<br />

important. “If they believe in the brand and it stands for innovation,<br />

leading edge and so on, they’re more apt to purchase it. That’s more<br />

difficult for a small, lesser-known brand with their own proprietary<br />

technology. They’re going to have to spend more marketing dollars to<br />

educate the consumer or retail channel.”<br />

Going forward, product positioning appears to be paramount. The<br />

danger is in disappearing from consumer consciousness completely.<br />

Many believe consumerism is fast becoming a polarized marketplace,<br />

where consumers seek goods either with lower prices and “good<br />

enough” value on a mass level or goods offering “high personal” value,<br />

emotional fulfillment and perceived relevance on a specialty level.<br />

While this bodes well potentially for the specialty channel,<br />

middle-tier brands may be forced with unpleasant choices.<br />

To optimize an ingredient branding strategy, the component<br />

supplier and product manufacturer must create the perception<br />

of premium value or risk falling into a group that IBM analysts<br />

call “undifferentiated competitors” that “fade into irrelevance.”<br />

There’s certainly no value in that. IO<br />

24|IO May|June 2005


Threads & Spins<br />

Outdoor Textiles News and Notes<br />

Partnerships<br />

The board of Australian Wool Services Ltd. has proposed<br />

a single vision approach for the wool industry that would see<br />

the structural integration of Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. and<br />

Australian Wool Services under the management of a single board<br />

and single executive. AWS officials believe stronger unity between<br />

the two organizations will improve relationships within the processing<br />

and retail sectors and help build global demand for Australian<br />

merino wool.<br />

“The Australian wool industry has fallen well behind in the<br />

marketing of its product compared to its major competitors of cotton<br />

and man-made fibers,” said Trevor Flugge, AWS chairman.<br />

The integration also would pave the way for increased joint<br />

funding and partnering on marketing projects on behalf of the<br />

Australian wool industry and drive unified efforts with research and<br />

development and technology.<br />

The earliest a formal proposal could be brought to shareholders<br />

would likely be late this year, the companies said.<br />

Global View<br />

China’s textile and apparel exports to the United States grew by<br />

63 percent in the first quarter of the year, according to preliminary<br />

data released by the federal government and reported by World<br />

Global Style Network. China’s success has reignited concerns for<br />

protection from the domestic textile industry.<br />

The amount of wool exported from China to the U.S. between<br />

January and March grew 62.5 percent from the same period a<br />

year ago. In individual categories, WGSN reported that the biggest<br />

increase was in cotton and synthetic fiber trousers, which grew<br />

1,521 percent. Cotton knit shirts grew by 1,257 percent, while<br />

synthetic filament fabrics grew 769 percent.<br />

The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition reported<br />

that 17,200 U.S. textile and apparel manufacturing jobs have been<br />

lost this year and said those losses would likely continue to mount<br />

unless the U.S. government initiates safeguards. Employment in<br />

the U.S. textile industry has fallen 36.4 percent from 1.05 million<br />

workers in January 2001 to 665,900 in March 2005, WGSN<br />

reported …<br />

United States imports of textiles and apparel grew in volume<br />

and value in December 2004, as well as for the year, and showed<br />

a steady rise continuing in January, according to The Woolmark Co.<br />

26|IO May|June 2005<br />

Wool textiles and apparel saw the largest gain of all fiber types in all<br />

three periods, Woolmark reported.<br />

Although China was the largest supplier for all U.S. textile and<br />

apparel requirements in both December and aggregate 2004, India<br />

was the main supplier to the U.S. of wool textiles and apparel,<br />

ahead of Italy and Canada. In January, China gained first position<br />

with an outstanding lift in aggregate wool apparel volumes imported,<br />

Woolmark said …<br />

In its 2004 annual report, Australian Wool Services Ltd.<br />

reported that global net domestic wool availability was down by 18<br />

percent in total and 25 percent in the apparel sector from 2000<br />

to 2003. The company predicted that global wool production would<br />

increase 2 percent during the 2004-2005 season, for the first time<br />

since 1989-1990.<br />

Fashion forecasts for last year and this year also indicate “a<br />

return to smarter dressing and natural fibers, with wool expected to<br />

have a higher significant presence at retail” for fall in the Northern<br />

Hemisphere.<br />

Products & Programs<br />

dri-release with FreshGuard has caught the eye of designers<br />

outside the sports apparel market, with women’s casual wear lines<br />

featuring dri-release recently launched by two women athletes familiar<br />

with the technology. Janice Fetter founded Spooney Wearever in<br />

Charleston, S.C. as a casual/loungewear line, and Helen Rockey<br />

has launched Seattle-based wildbleu sleepwear.<br />

Both Spooney and wildbleu are using dri-release cotton knits, a<br />

combination of a special co-polymer polyester and cotton. While the<br />

fabric possesses the feel and appearance of 100 percent cotton, it<br />

has a softer drape and is wash and wear.<br />

Both Fetter and Rockey set out to create multi-use apparel that<br />

allows a woman to feel fresh and comfortable around the clock.<br />

Another new market to embrace dri-release technology is next-tobody<br />

daywear such as bras and briefs, said Karen Deniz, president<br />

of Optimer’s European division and head of marketing. Optimer also<br />

expects dri-release with FreshGuard to soon be available in dress<br />

shirts and uniforms …<br />

IFAI Expo 2005 will be held Oct. 27-29 at the Henry B. Gonzalez<br />

Convention Center in San Antonio. More than 8,000 participants are<br />

expected to take part in the expo’s exhibits, educational programs<br />

and other events. This year’s educational program features more


than 90 sessions, offering a combination of technical papers,<br />

seminars, case studies and panel discussions.<br />

Included among the 14 market-specific tracks are business and<br />

leadership, sports and recreation, and textiles and graphics …<br />

Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. has pledged $5 million to<br />

an international apparel marketing pilot program. In April the<br />

International Wool Textile Organization Retail Taskforce requested<br />

funding from woolgrowers, international wool and textile businesses<br />

in part to help market merino wool globally.<br />

AWI’s pledge is contingent on being matched dollar for dollar by other<br />

international wool and textile businesses. The offer expires Aug. 31 …<br />

The reconstruction and expansion of Schoeller’s headquarters in<br />

Sevelen, Switzerland, recently passed the halfway mark. The textile<br />

company has been concerned with space restrictions in recent years<br />

and decided to expand its high-performance weaving mill, as well as<br />

the entire dye works and finishing department at the Swiss facility.<br />

In addition, a new logistics center is under construction with the aim<br />

of increasing supply readiness and customer service.<br />

In the context of the expansion work, and in addition to other<br />

measures, a new exhaust air purification plant also is being installed.<br />

a welcome figure considering the company’s string of consecutive<br />

net earnings losses of $28.2 million, $1.5 million, $7.6 million and<br />

$1.5 million in each quarter last year. Sales climbed to $386.3<br />

million for the first quarter this year, which was $92.5 million or 31<br />

percent higher than the same period a year ago and $14.1 million or<br />

4 percent higher than the previous record set in the fourth quarter<br />

last year. This increase was attributed to higher selling prices. The<br />

quarterly earnings were Wellman’s highest since the second quarter<br />

of 2002.<br />

Achievements & Awards<br />

Malden Mills Industries Inc. finalized its senior management<br />

team, appointing Jonathan Adelman as executive vice president of<br />

global sales and Edward Schade as chief financial officer. Adelman<br />

and Schade join COO Andrew Vecchione under the direction of new<br />

CEO Michael Spillane, who joined the company in July last year.<br />

Adelman has nearly 30 years of executive experience in the<br />

textile and apparel industry. He comes to Malden from New River<br />

Industries where he served as managing director. Prior to New<br />

River, Adelman was president and CEO of Lida Stretch Fabrics and<br />

China’s textile and apparel exports to the United States grew by 63 percent in<br />

the first quarter of the year. The biggest increase was in cotton and synthetic<br />

fiber trousers, which grew 1,521 percent. Cotton knit shirts grew by 1,257<br />

percent, while synthetic filament fabrics grew 769 percent.<br />

The plant will be linked to the existing machinery as well as a new,<br />

large-scale coating plant. Schoeller expects these measures to<br />

reduce emissions by 80 percent and cut energy input by 20 percent.<br />

The system is equipped with an electro filter and a wet filter that<br />

make it possible to purify the exhaust air while at the same time<br />

recover the heat. The move highlights Schoeller’s commitment to<br />

the bluesign standard for safe and sustainable textile production.<br />

The current construction is due to be completed Sept. 5 …<br />

PrimaLoft has signed on as a supporter of the Northern<br />

Forest Canoe Trail project, a 740-mile water trail which links the<br />

watersheds of northern New York, Vermont, Quebec, New Hampshire<br />

and Maine.<br />

“The Northern Forest Canoe Trail project is a great example of<br />

how private landowners, state and federal agencies and businesses<br />

can work together to create an ideal recreational area that benefits<br />

everyone,” said Tom Mendl, marketing director for PrimaLoft. “The<br />

trail is virtually in our back yard, and we feel it is important to support<br />

such a worthwhile project.”<br />

P&L<br />

Wellman Inc. reported its second consecutive quarter with record<br />

sales and recorded its highest quarterly net profits in nearly three<br />

years. Earnings for the quarter ended March 31 were $11 million,<br />

business manager/director of marketing of Milliken & Co. He will<br />

oversee sales in Asia and Europe, as well as in North America.<br />

Schade brings more than 35 years of corporate finance experience<br />

to Malden, most recently as CFO with The Hinckley Company …<br />

Smart Fabric Technology by Outlast Technologies was inducted<br />

into the Space Technology Hall of Fame April 7, as one of four 2005<br />

honorees, joining 48 previous innovators. Outlast founders Ed Payne<br />

and Bernie Perry were honored as Individual Inductees, and Individual<br />

Commendation awards recognizing those instrumental in bringing<br />

the technology to market included Martin Bentz, managing director<br />

of Outlast Europe; Roland Cox, Acordis Acrylic Fibers; Andrew Bell,<br />

global product manager for Ciba; and Monte Magill, vice president<br />

of business development for Outlast Technologies …<br />

Former DuPont employees Don Sandusky and Michael O’Neill<br />

have opened a product laboratory called PRIMO Innovations in<br />

Newark, Del. The new company will offer comprehensive materials<br />

science-based product innovation and product development services,<br />

specializing in recreational equipment and sports gear.<br />

Since June 2004, PRIMO has worked with a major U.S. sporting<br />

goods brand to develop and commercialize advancements in the<br />

bicycle tire and inner tube categories. The company’s NeverFlat<br />

technology promises to improve pressure retention of inflated sports<br />

products, according to Sandusky, PRIMO president. IO<br />

May|June 2005 IO |27


Image Courtesy of Royal Robbins<br />

U p h i l l C l i m b<br />

O f f e r i n g t r a v e l s e r v i c e s c a n b e a r e a l a d v e n t u r e<br />

by Lou Dzierzak<br />

If you’ve thought about adding adventure travel as an ancillary<br />

service to help differentiate your store and provide the springboard<br />

for you to circumnavigate the globe, you’re certainly not alone. It’s a<br />

romantic business notion that will most certainly enable you to see<br />

and experience many exotic lands. But it’s also a juggernaut of time<br />

consumption, logistics and low revenue.<br />

“It is a very difficult business requiring a great deal of time,<br />

generating little on the bottom line,” confides Steve Piragis, owner of<br />

Piragis Northwoods.<br />

Located near the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in<br />

northern Minnesota, Piragis Northwoods began offering guided<br />

28|IO May|June 2005<br />

paddling trips in 1979 and expanded to international tours in 1995.<br />

“We wanted to go on these trips ourselves, go along as guides and<br />

hopefully make some profit at it,” recalls Piragis. “Everybody I know<br />

who is in the business started because they wanted to see the world.”<br />

Despite troubling economic times and gloomy forecasts, the<br />

romanticism Americans invest in adventure travel seems to at<br />

least give the idea some merit. According to the Outdoor Industry<br />

Association’s 2004 Participation Study, the popularity of adventure/<br />

outdoor activity vacations increased 14 percent in 2003, with some<br />

54.9 million people participating in vacations that were inspired by<br />

outdoor adventure activities.


In addition, the Travel Industry Association of America (TIA)<br />

last year cast a favorable outlook toward adventure travel, reporting<br />

during its 30th annual Marketing Outlook Forum that 44 percent<br />

of CrossSphere (formerly the National Tour Association) operators<br />

offered soft adventure tours in 2003, up from 25 percent in 2001. In<br />

contrast, Hard adventures were offered by 10 percent of CrossSphere<br />

operators during that same period, a 3 percent increase from 2001.<br />

Likewise, the Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA)<br />

reports that “there are roughly 10,000 operators that offer adventure<br />

travel as part of their business.”<br />

The point is that whether travelers are interested in “soft” activities<br />

like camping, easy hiking and horseback riding or “hard” activities<br />

like whitewater kayaking, rugged backpacking and spelunking<br />

matters less than the mere fact that they are motivated to travel and<br />

apparently willing to spend their money.<br />

Last year, TIA forecasted a 6.9 percent gain in total direct<br />

domestic and international travel expenditures in the United States<br />

for 2004, which would account for $592.6 billion. The organization<br />

expected travel expenditures to increase through 2006, predicting<br />

a 5.3 percent increase this year to reach $624.1 billion in travel<br />

expenditures, which would break the $600 billion mark for the<br />

first time.<br />

What percentage of that will be allocated to adventure travel is<br />

unclear, but the willingness of would-be travelers to want to spend<br />

their money is certainly encouraging.<br />

“Folks are looking for something above and beyond. Something<br />

extra. Something different,” says Ed Schiller, director of Wild River<br />

Outfitters Touring Co. in Virginia Beach, Va. The company gained<br />

a solid reputation for its local guiding trips before branching out<br />

to adventure travel destinations such as the Caribbean and Belize.<br />

“We’ve been in business for over 25 years, and I thought if I could put<br />

together an international trip, our regular customers would know we<br />

would do it right.”<br />

Not All Fun in the Sun<br />

The excitement of international travel and the satisfaction of<br />

offering customers once-in-a-lifetime memories can be tempered by<br />

the work involved to pull it all off. “For the most part, customers<br />

are looking for us to handle all the details,” explains Schiller. “They<br />

expect one-stop shopping. Tell me what the price is and take care of<br />

everything from there.”<br />

Offering trips to locations like Chile, Belize, Costa Rica,<br />

Greenland, Iceland, Turkey and Vietnam requires tremendous<br />

dedication from a point person and additional staff, says Piragis.<br />

“It’s a huge time commitment; it takes away from everything else I<br />

do. It takes a lot of time and money to set these up, get insurance<br />

and get customers. It changed the way I do my business. I have a<br />

crew of 26 people working with me, so I can take time to do some<br />

of this. You need at least one full-time person, possibly more, to<br />

handle it.”<br />

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Both Wild River Outfitters and Piragis Northwoods rely on<br />

partners in the destination country to help with equipment, local<br />

knowledge and guide support. “It’s impossible to do the trips we<br />

do without having someone there with the gear, guides and local<br />

knowledge,” explains Piragis.<br />

Taking the time to find the right partners is an important step<br />

in ensuring a safe and successful journey. “We screen them pretty<br />

closely and we’ve enjoyed good relationships with the outfitters we’ve<br />

selected,” offers Schiller. “They provide all the things we need for our<br />

guests that we can’t bring along.”<br />

When arranging trips to Belize, Schiller considers several options:<br />

“I can charter the trip, meaning I buy the trip and it’s up to me to sell<br />

the trip, or I can add people to the charter company’s existing trips.<br />

Obviously, I’d rather charter the trip, but I have to accept the risk of<br />

selling it.”<br />

Securing customer commitments can be a difficult task.<br />

Marketing and promoting the adventure travel service can take more<br />

time and resources than the trip itself. “The trips are present all over<br />

the store [with photographs, posters and brochures]. You can’t walk<br />

into the store without knowing that we offer trips all over the world,”<br />

says Piragis.<br />

Customers are invited to attend slide shows and clinics presented<br />

by past participants who add credibility to the pitch. Getting<br />

customers to commit money and register is critical to success.<br />

“Running the trip is difficult, but selling the trip is the hardest part,”<br />

offers Piragis. “It’s always been that way no matter if you are outfitting<br />

in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or Chile. Marketing the trip<br />

and the actual selling is harder than you imagine.”<br />

Schiller says his existing customer base is the best source for<br />

selling trips. “I have a good database of customers who have taken<br />

trips with us in the past,” he says. “We send out an e-newsletter that<br />

highlights things like our Caribbean trips. We have loyal customers,<br />

and the best advertising is a satisfied customer’s word of mouth.”<br />

Once registered, customer service requires managing<br />

expectations and confirming checklist after checklist of details.<br />

“We clearly set out the guidelines. We spell out the activities on the<br />

trip. We give them a comprehensive package of information about<br />

passport, licenses and more,” says Schiller.<br />

Customers also receive information about purchasing travel<br />

insurance. “If you want to go to the Caribbean in September or<br />

October at the tail end of the hurricane season, travel insurance<br />

can cover trip cancellations, delayed flights, lost bags and medical<br />

emergencies,” he says. Travel Guard International offers customers<br />

comprehensive trip-based insurance coverage, including medical<br />

evacuation coverage, adds Schiller.<br />

Logistics are always an issue, and each destination offers its<br />

own set of challenges. “It’s very difficult setting up transportation to<br />

remote sites,” notes Piragis. “Charter flights, connection issues, travel


insurance … it’s complicated. We are prepared with contingency<br />

plans for everything. Liability insurance is a large expense.”<br />

Schiller agrees: “Liability insurance rates in the outdoor industry<br />

have gone up significantly in the last couple of years. If there is an<br />

incident somewhere, it gets nationwide [media] coverage and that<br />

affects your rates for your trips.”<br />

Great Expectations<br />

As customers prepare for a trip, a logical assumption would be<br />

that customers’ preparation for the journey could be a nice bolster<br />

to gear sales. Although additional purchases of trip-related clothing<br />

and accessories do take place, both Piragis and<br />

Schiller report that they do not typically account<br />

for significant amounts.<br />

Similarly, one might also assume that<br />

gathering a dozen strangers with different skill<br />

levels and expectations together for the first time<br />

in a new environment could lead to personality<br />

conflicts, but Piragis says the opposite is<br />

typically true.<br />

“To be honest, we haven’t had to deal with<br />

that problem,” he says. “We don’t do anything<br />

high adventure; we do easy trips for average<br />

paddlers. Most of the people on these trips<br />

are not aggressive 25-year-olds. They are baby<br />

boomers who want someone to show them these<br />

beautiful places.”<br />

This is an important point and an opportunity<br />

to target a very specific customer segment<br />

inside your store. Older travelers can exhibit a<br />

more refined sense of community, patience and<br />

acceptance, and are less likely to be irresponsible<br />

during the trip. They also have deeper pockets.<br />

In its 1997 Adventure Travel Report, TIA<br />

reported that travelers venturing outside the<br />

continental United States were typically college<br />

educated with a median age of 43.5 and a median<br />

household income of $73,000. Although this<br />

information has not been updated, it’s likely<br />

that the age of travelers has remained fairly<br />

constant, while their household incomes have<br />

probably increased.<br />

Another characteristic of soft adventure<br />

travelers is that they are more likely to bring their<br />

spouses and children, which also creates a family<br />

vacation opportunity. In that same Adventure<br />

Travel Report, TIA noted that 60 percent of<br />

soft adventure travelers took their spouses as<br />

compared to only 42 percent of hard adventure<br />

travelers, and 41 percent of soft adventurers<br />

included either their children or grandchildren<br />

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during their most recent trip as compared to an understandably<br />

lower 18 percent of hard adventurers.<br />

Although neither Piragis nor Schiller have experienced any<br />

major conflicts during a trip, strangers suddenly thrust together,<br />

spousal squabbles and sibling rivalries all hold the potential to be<br />

combustible situations.<br />

“We train our guides to adapt and recognize a situation that’s<br />

developing and handle it,” says Schiller. “We’ve had good chemistry<br />

on most of our trips. We try to keep the groups to 10 to 12 people. It’s<br />

more sociable, and they feel like they are getting personal attention.”<br />

Piragis takes a similar approach: “We hire mature people to<br />

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guide the trips who have life experiences and<br />

understand personalities and group dynamics.<br />

Our guides are in their 50s and 60s. They’ve<br />

CrossSphere Operators’ Products<br />

firm. “It’s hard to sell a trip if you haven’t<br />

been on it,” notes Piragis. “We bring<br />

potential partners along so they can<br />

Percentage of CrossSphere Operators<br />

Source: CrossSphere and TIA<br />

been around. The most important thing we<br />

do is send an e-mail to our customers about<br />

a week before the trip telling them that the<br />

most important thing they can bring along is<br />

a good attitude. It works well.”<br />

The Long Haul<br />

If you are considering adding an<br />

adventure travel component to your<br />

business, keep in mind that you won’t<br />

likely blaze any revenue trails. Building the<br />

business requires time and patience.<br />

experience the destination this year and<br />

then sell it the next.”<br />

Schiller agrees. “The outfitters that<br />

I deal with are reputable. I know they<br />

are going to do it first class,” he says. “If<br />

it’s something new, I will go and check<br />

it out first so I can market it fairly. It’s<br />

easy to talk about if you have first-hand<br />

experience.”<br />

Which is, after all, why most retailers<br />

get into the adventure travel trade in the<br />

first place. IO<br />

Travel Expenditures Will Continue to Rise<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Reserve your space in<br />

INSIDE OUTDOOR’s<br />

Outdoor Directory<br />

Coming in December<br />

For advertising information<br />

Call 480.503.0770<br />

berge@dagdamor.com<br />

www.insideoutdoor.com<br />

Source: TIA and OTTI<br />

“Our travel business has been growing<br />

but only because of the groundwork laid<br />

in the past,” says Piragis. “We’ve been<br />

offering Boundary Waters trips since<br />

1979 and international trips since 1995.<br />

It takes that long to build credibility and<br />

gain a core group of participants that keep<br />

coming back year after year. Those are the<br />

people that support the business.”<br />

One way to add adventure travel<br />

services is to partner with an experienced<br />

If you are serious about adding an<br />

adventure travel component to your<br />

business, you may want to consider attending<br />

the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s<br />

World Adventure Travel Summit in<br />

Seattle, Oct. 16-18. Expert presenters will<br />

discuss marketing challenges, liability<br />

insurance, consumer trends and how to<br />

expand the adventure travel marketplace.<br />

More information can be found at<br />

www.adventuretravelworldsummit.com.


B<br />

A<br />

Data Points<br />

Numbers worth noting<br />

by Martin Vilaboy<br />

C<br />

K<br />

Rich Content Radio<br />

Adults with household incomes of $75,000 spend between<br />

six and eight hours with the media on an average weekday. And<br />

in almost all markets, radio and television occupies half or more<br />

O<br />

of that total time per adult, say researchers at International<br />

Demographics. In many markets, radio gets the lion’s share<br />

F<br />

F<br />

I<br />

C<br />

E<br />

of minutes with media and appears to be the best means<br />

for targeting affluent Americans. That’s particularly true when<br />

considering that more and more adults are using more than<br />

one media at a time, says Bob Jordan, president of International<br />

Demographics, but much of radio listening is done while in the<br />

car, suggesting higher levels of attention. The impact of satellite<br />

radio is still unclear but certainly growing.<br />

Media Habits of Affluent Adults<br />

Market Media Minutes Share Media Exposure<br />

Eugene<br />

Radio 143 32.8%<br />

Television 123 28.3%<br />

Print Media 27 6.2%<br />

Outdoor 78 18.0%<br />

Web Sites 63 14.5 %<br />

Jackson, MS<br />

Radio 115 25.2%<br />

Television 170 37.2%<br />

Print Media 27 5.9%<br />

Outdoor 87 19.0%<br />

Web Sites 58 12.7%<br />

Pittsburgh<br />

Radio 204 38.3%<br />

Television 163 30.6%<br />

Print Media 27 5.1%<br />

Outdoor 79 15.0%<br />

Web Sites 59 11.0%<br />

Sacramento<br />

Radio 134 30.9%<br />

Television 125 28.7%<br />

Print Media 25 5.8%<br />

Outdoor 84 19.3%<br />

Web Sites 67 15.4%<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

Radio 140 33.8%<br />

Television 115 27.7%<br />

Print Media 25 5.9<br />

Outdoor 73 17.7<br />

Web Sites 61 14.8<br />

Seattle-Tacoma<br />

Radio 130 30.8<br />

Television 125 29.7<br />

Print Media 23 5.3<br />

Outdoor 78 18.5<br />

Web Sites 66 15.8<br />

Source: The Media Audit<br />

34|IO May|June 2005<br />

Retired but Still Working<br />

As retailers increasingly look to retired and semi-retired<br />

professionals to bolster their part-time work forces, it’s probably<br />

worth noting that older Americans are looking for more than pay<br />

in their “post-career” jobs. A survey of adults of more than 40<br />

years of age by JWT Mature Market Group and ThirdAge found<br />

that personal fulfillment was a primary factor in the decision to<br />

work in retirement. What’s more, of those who say they plan to<br />

“fully retire,” 70 percent say they plan to continue working at<br />

least occasionally in some form.<br />

Key Reasons for Continuing to Work after<br />

Retiring, Among those 40 or Older<br />

Stay mentally active 74%<br />

Be productive or useful 63%<br />

Stay physically active 62%<br />

Be around people 55%<br />

Keep learning new things 52%<br />

Source: JWT Mature Market Group and ThirdAge<br />

Loyalty Does Not Equal Exclusivity<br />

“The idea of customer loyalty, where consumers shop<br />

exclusively at a particular retail store, ceased to exist long<br />

ago,” says Gary Drenik, analyst with BIGresearch. Loyalty has<br />

been replaced by cross shopping, says Drenik, so your best<br />

customers are also likely shopping your competitors.<br />

Sample of Leading Retailers That Share a<br />

Majority of their Best Customers with Wal-Mart<br />

Category<br />

Retailer<br />

% Best Customers<br />

Shared with Wal-Mart<br />

Shoes Payless 71%<br />

Electronics Best Buy 62%<br />

Linens & bedding Bed, Bath & Beyond 54%<br />

Home improvement Home Depot 64%<br />

Prescriptions Walgreens 71%<br />

Groceries Kroger 65%<br />

Source: BIGresearch<br />

A Big Problem?<br />

Whether or not childhood obesity is a national crisis,<br />

marketing outdoor recreation as a way to combat obesity should<br />

resonate well, at least on some levels.<br />

Concern Regarding Childhood Obesity<br />

Believe it is a …<br />

All Adults<br />

Parent or Guardian of<br />

Child Aged 12 and Under<br />

A major problem 77% 70%<br />

A minor problem 21% 27%<br />

Not a problem at all 2% 3%<br />

Source: Harris Interactive


“…In my 15 years in the<br />

outdoor industry, I have<br />

rarely come across a project<br />

with the unique combination<br />

of virtue and service to<br />

community as Medicines<br />

Global(GB)…”<br />

Kenji Haroutunian<br />

OUTDOOR RETAILER<br />

Medicines Global Celebrates 5 years<br />

'Inspiring' Travelers to Give Back<br />

“ Most adventure travelers<br />

want to give back to places they<br />

visit without corrupting the<br />

culture. The idea of bringing<br />

medicines, which are badly<br />

needed, to drop off at designated<br />

sites is the most beneficial<br />

way to give back. The power<br />

of numbers is significant.”<br />

Greg Wozer<br />

Vice President<br />

LEKI USA<br />

“We proudly support the mission<br />

of Medicines Global(GB).<br />

Quietly yet strongly affecting<br />

global health through adventure<br />

travelers. Helping bring<br />

basic humanitarian first aid<br />

supplies to the remote regions<br />

of Nepal…and the planet.”<br />

Johnnie Kern - Team Member<br />

Medicines Global(GB)<br />

the humanitarian support arm for the<br />

Tsangpo Expedition, 2002<br />

Baby Friendly Hos pital - Lhasa, Tibet<br />

"...as people, our highest calling is to make a positive contribution<br />

to the world around us - wherever we are. Because we<br />

and the outdoor industry as a whole make our living helping<br />

people explore the globe, supporting Medicines Global(GB)<br />

is a natural choice. Through them, we not only contribute to<br />

the many communities that embrace our outdoor athletes, we<br />

also enable adventure travelers to do the same."<br />

Carry Porter<br />

Director of Sponsorship Management<br />

CASCADE DESIGNS<br />

Michael Besancon<br />

President<br />

Southern Pacific Region<br />

WHOLE FOODS MARKET<br />

inspire<br />

encourage<br />

give<br />

medicines global(gb)<br />

1524 s rexford drive<br />

los angeles, ca 90035<br />

310.556.0809<br />

Charlie Munsey ©2002<br />

Help your customers “give back” today by sending them to<br />

www.medicinesglobal.org


G<br />

O<br />

R<br />

P<br />

Fast, Light and Out of Control<br />

by Stuart Craig<br />

You might have heard something about “emergent<br />

behavior.” It’s how birds flock, how ant colonies move and how<br />

large populations in general become greater than the sum of<br />

their parts and act with, well, “emergent” intelligence. It’s the<br />

theory of the hive mind or of the swarm, the idea that there’s<br />

nothing innate in a single molecule of water that predicts a<br />

whirlpool or in a single snowflake that predicts an avalanche.<br />

It’s also one of the central concepts of Kevin Kelly’s<br />

outstanding book Out of Control, which is sort of an operator’s<br />

manual for living in this era of information overload and total<br />

connectivity. Reading it made me think that maybe, just maybe,<br />

this emergent behavior thing explains how marketing often<br />

unfolds in the outdoor industry.<br />

is titled “America’s Hardest Dayhikes,” and the taglines crow<br />

that “you can pull off the walk of a lifetime in one day. Just be<br />

forewarned: It’s going to be a very, very long one.” The shortest<br />

hike? Try 18 miles with 10,000 feet of elevation change. The<br />

longest is 41 miles with a 12,000-foot change in elevation.<br />

Even the Christian Science Monitor has taken up the cause.<br />

In the Sept. 30, 2004 edition, author Todd Wilkinson writes<br />

about GoLite founder and president Demetri “Coup” Coupounas<br />

and his solo unsupported trek of Vermont’s 280-mile Long Trail<br />

(12 days, 19 hours, 53 minutes) and Ryan Jordan’s electronic<br />

magazine/forum/pay-to-join community BackpackingLight.com.<br />

These two, says Wilkinson, are “leading a revolution that strips<br />

conventional hiking down to its sparest essentials.”<br />

Either fast-packing is indeed super popular among outdoor<br />

enthusiasts or it’s a case of an emergent pattern, sort of like<br />

how bees choose a new site for their hive.<br />

Specifically, I’m thinking of fast-packing, that darling du jour.<br />

Fast-packing and its equally nebulous cousins, “fast and light”<br />

and “done in a day,” (three terms often used interchangeably<br />

and/or as modifiers of each other) are everywhere — from<br />

ads, to sport-specific magazine articles, to product catalogs, to<br />

mainstream publications.<br />

According to GoLite’s full-page, part one of three, “Special<br />

Advertisement” in the latest Backpacker, “Fast-packing is hiking<br />

more miles per day than with traditional backpacking.” It is “well<br />

within reach for anyone in reasonable shape who is willing to<br />

try a new approach,” which, for “the elite,” translates to making<br />

“40, 50, even 60 miles per day…routine.”<br />

In that same issue of Backpacker, the lead story covers Scott<br />

Williamson’s (perhaps fast-packing’s premier poster child) first<br />

continuous yo-yo of the Pacific Crest Trail, covering 5,120 miles<br />

in 197 days while carrying a 20-pound pack. A second feature<br />

Given this kind of presence, I have to conclude that<br />

either fast-packing is indeed super popular among outdoor<br />

enthusiasts or it’s a case of an emergent pattern, sort<br />

of like how bees choose a new site for their hive. A few<br />

worker bees scout out the sites then report their findings<br />

by dancing for the swarm. The more enthusiastic the dance,<br />

the better the site. Other bees then check out the site<br />

and come back and add their emphasis to the original<br />

scout’s report.<br />

“It’s a rare bee, except for the scouts,” writes Kelly,<br />

“who has inspected more than one site. The bees see a<br />

message, ‘Go there, it’s a nice place.’ They go and return<br />

to dance/say, ‘Yeah, it’s really nice.’… As per the law of<br />

increasing returns, them that has get more votes, the havenots<br />

get less. … The biggest crowd of dancing bees wins.”<br />

Perhaps this is how all the marketing for fast-packing<br />

36|IO May|June 2005


Editorial Index<br />

66°North 22<br />

About.com 38<br />

Acordis Acrylic Fibers 27<br />

Action Sales 10<br />

Active Endeavors 8<br />

Adventure 16 10<br />

Adventure Travel Trade Assn. 29, 32<br />

Alta Group 10<br />

American Fibers & Yarns 14, 16<br />

American Mfg. Trade Action Coalition 26<br />

Atomic 10<br />

Australian Wool Innovation 26, 27<br />

Australian Wool Services 26<br />

Backpacker 36<br />

BackpackingLight.com 36<br />

Banana Republic 16<br />

BIGresearch 34<br />

Bob Smith’s Wilderness Shop 8<br />

Buffalo Park Outfi tters 8<br />

Campbell’s Soup 19<br />

Cannondale 10<br />

Christian Science Monitor 36<br />

Ciba 27<br />

Coca-Cola 19<br />

Columbia Sportswear 8, 24<br />

CoolMax 16, 20, 23<br />

Cordura 20<br />

Coville 12, 14, 16<br />

CrossSphere 29<br />

David Rigby Associates 20, 24<br />

dri-release 26<br />

DuPont 20<br />

Energy Information Admin. 6<br />

ESP 20<br />

eVENT 22<br />

Fortune 6<br />

Gallup 20<br />

Gap 16<br />

Garmont 10<br />

GoLite 36, 38<br />

Gore-Tex 20, 22,24<br />

Harris Interactive 34<br />

Helly Hansen 24<br />

The Hinckley Co. 27<br />

IBM 19, 20, 22, 23, 24<br />

IFAI 26<br />

Indigo Equipment 10<br />

Innova 14, 16<br />

Intel 19, 20, 23<br />

International Demographics 34<br />

Intl. Wool Textile Organization 27<br />

INVISTA 20<br />

IRI Information Resources 22<br />

Jetboil 10<br />

JWT Mature Market Group 34<br />

K2 8, 10<br />

Kavu 16<br />

Koch Industries 20<br />

KoSa 20<br />

Landor Associates 23, 24<br />

Lida Stretch Fabrics 27<br />

Lycra 12, 23<br />

Malden Mills 14, 27<br />

Marmot 8<br />

The Media Audit 34<br />

Merrill Lynch 6<br />

Milliken & Co. 27<br />

Monsanto 19<br />

Mountain Hardwear 8, 14<br />

Mountain Miser 10<br />

New River Industries 27<br />

Nikwax 10<br />

The North Face 8, 20<br />

NutraSweet 19<br />

Olympic Mountaineering 10<br />

Optimer 26<br />

Outdoor Industry Association 7, 28, 38<br />

Outlast Technologies 27<br />

Patagonia 24<br />

Pepperidge Farm 24<br />

Pepsi 19<br />

Petzl 10<br />

Piragis Northwoods 28, 30<br />

Polarguard 20<br />

Polartec 20<br />

PrimaLoft 27<br />

PRIMO Innovations 27<br />

REI 10<br />

Research International 24<br />

Retail Forward 7<br />

Rockfi sh Gap Outfi tters 8<br />

Royal Robbins 14<br />

Schoeller Textil 14, 27<br />

Sea to Summit 10<br />

Snow Country 8<br />

Spooney Wearever 26<br />

Supplex 20<br />

Tactel 20<br />

Tencel 20<br />

Thermolite 20<br />

ThirdAge 34<br />

TrailHeads 10<br />

Travel Guard International 30<br />

Travel Industry Assn. 7, 29, 31<br />

Vaude 23<br />

Velocity Sales 10<br />

Vibram 20<br />

VF Corp. 8<br />

Watermark 8<br />

Wellman 27<br />

Wenonah Canoe 10<br />

Wild River Outfi tters Touring 29, 30<br />

wildbleu sleepwear 26<br />

Woolmark 20, 26<br />

World Global Style Network 26<br />

Yakima 8<br />

YKK 20<br />

AD INDEX<br />

Adventure 16 7<br />

ASF Group 31<br />

Cam Commerce Solutions 22<br />

Clear the Air 21<br />

Conservation Alliance 33<br />

Cyclops 3<br />

dri-release 9<br />

Durapeg 32<br />

IFAI 17<br />

Kelty 23<br />

Medicines Global 35<br />

Polarguard<br />

Back Cover<br />

Sevylor 39<br />

Sure Foot 2<br />

Synchronics (CounterPoint) 29<br />

Tallysoft 30<br />

Wingnut 25<br />

Wynit 11<br />

Wynit/Magellan 13<br />

Wynit/Garmin 15<br />

Yaktrax 5<br />

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correspondence should be directed to INSIDE OUTDOOR 1405 E. Campus Dr., Tempe<br />

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berge@dagdamor.com


was born. A few people were doing it and talking about it —<br />

doing the dance, so to speak. “That fast-packing looks cool.”<br />

Companies and journalists saw the enthusiasm in the “dance,”<br />

and joined in, dancing/talking excitedly about it. “Yeah, it’s<br />

really cool.” Pretty soon, “As per the law of increasing returns,<br />

them that has get more votes, the have-nots get less.”<br />

OK, so people are talking about it and companies are<br />

making gear for it, but are outdoor participants and enthusiasts<br />

actually going fast-packing? Assuming they’d be included in<br />

backpacking and hiking numbers, Outdoor Industry Association<br />

participation figures indicate they’re not making a significant<br />

impact on overall participation figures.<br />

In both participant and enthusiast groups, backpacking is<br />

down — way down — more than 15 percent from 2001 to<br />

2003 in participant numbers, and more than 33 percent with<br />

enthusiasts to reach that segment’s lowest numbers in six<br />

years. Hiking shows a similar trend, with participant numbers<br />

down more than 7 percent from 2001 to 2003, and enthusiasts<br />

off by nearly 16 percent.<br />

What if fast-packers consider themselves trail runners? No<br />

joy there either. Enthusiast numbers declined over 16 percent<br />

for the same period, and participant levels were down more<br />

than 8 percent. How about Away from the Car Camping? Nope.<br />

Down more than 8 percent in participant levels and a whopping<br />

45 percent with enthusiasts.<br />

In fact, the only enthusiast activity that showed a gain from<br />

2001 to 2003 was road biking.<br />

So, again, I have to conclude that the fast-packing<br />

phenomenon is emergent, a product of the hive mind. In the<br />

immortal words of Strother Martin in Cool Hand Luke, “What we<br />

have here is a failure to communicate!”<br />

For at least the last six years, the outdoor population has<br />

consistently shown itself to prefer to do its outdoor recreating in<br />

short doses as a means to get away from the stresses of everyday<br />

life. Indeed, part of the OIA top line sales report for August 2004<br />

to January 2005 calls attention to the shift in why Americans hike<br />

and camp. Their motivation is less about conquering than it is about<br />

finding peace and having fun. And they’re willing to pay extra for that.<br />

The average selling price is up 16 percent on every kind of gear,<br />

which could mean that they’re buying more expensive gear or that they<br />

are buying the higher-priced stuff on sale to get a better deal. Either<br />

way, such purchasing patterns scream quality, not quantity. These<br />

folks are after the depth of the experience, not the breadth of it.<br />

And we promote fast-packing as “The Answer?” “In our hectic<br />

society,” reads the copy in the GoLite ad, “most of us don’t have<br />

the leisure time we wish we had. But here’s a way you can see<br />

more in a day than you used to in a weekend, more in a weekend<br />

than you used to in a week, and more in week than you used<br />

to in a month.” Isn’t this just a new spin on the old Euro tour<br />

philosophy of “if it’s Tuesday, it must be Berlin”?<br />

This is not in the least to say that there’s no merit to fastpacking.<br />

From a sales perspective, it certainly gives a strong<br />

reason for ultralight gear, which is GoLite’s specialty.<br />

My problem with this model is that it equates quality with<br />

quantity. The same ad shows Coup with 21 pounds of gear and food<br />

for a three-day backpacking trip but then suggests that “by doing the<br />

same trip as a 15 hour fast pack, Coup can leave 13 pounds of gear<br />

and food at home carrying only 8 pounds on his back. Woo-Hoo!”<br />

These types of ads and 41-mile “done in a (never-ending) day”<br />

hiking articles send the message that not only can you go further in a<br />

day if you carry less, but that you should. Is that really the best way to<br />

enjoy the wild? My goal when I want relaxation in the mountains is not<br />

to “see more in a day than [I] used to in a weekend,” but to see (a la<br />

William Blake) “a world in a grain of sand and a heaven in a wildflower,”<br />

to “hold infinity in the palm of [my] hand and eternity in an hour.”<br />

Given that, which sounds better, a three-day ramble in the<br />

forest with a light, 20-pound pack or a single, hard, all-day push for<br />

15 hours?<br />

To be fair, such 15-hour days can be fun, and they have<br />

merit. They offer challenges and give customers options.<br />

And just because the backpacking and hiking numbers are<br />

down doesn’t at all mean we shouldn’t try and rebuild them.<br />

The walking activities are, after all, the real core of outdoor,<br />

and perhaps another generation will discover the wonders<br />

of backpacking, thanks to all the cool lightweight gear now<br />

available. But marketing is not educating, and by equating<br />

“light” with “fast,” by stressing the quantity of travel versus<br />

the quality of the experience, I believe we are cutting our own<br />

throats for the future growth of our industry.<br />

How about “light and slow” as an angle? Enlighten hikers to the<br />

joys of cutting their pack weight not so they can hammer harder, but<br />

so they can simply be more comfortable, have more fun and, perhaps,<br />

comfortably carry a bit of luxury like a loaf of bread or a jug of wine all<br />

in a lightweight package. How’s that for quality of experience?<br />

Many of the tenets espoused by the Ultralight Wingers, er,<br />

Ultralight Weighters, are extremely valid, if for no other reason than<br />

they are being articulated in new forms and to new users. The<br />

systems and multifunction approach to gear and the “be a better<br />

outdoorsman/woman” approach to outdoor recreating that Ryan<br />

Jordan champions on his website and in a recent GoLite catalog are<br />

great concepts for all hikers, not just those shaving grams for the<br />

light and fast, done-in-a-day fast-pack.<br />

I came across a truism on the Internet the other day, while I<br />

was browsing the marketing section of About.com. “Customers<br />

don’t buy products or services. They buy good feelings and<br />

solutions to problems.” The first step is to figure out what<br />

good feelings they’re after and what problems they want<br />

solved. In that light, given what our market seems to want,<br />

does fast-packing provide good feelings, and is it a solution to<br />

a problem? Or is it an answer without a question? IO<br />

38|IO GORP


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Sierra Designs<br />

The North Face<br />

Where you sleep is your business. How you sleep is ours.<br />

Visit us at the Outdoor<br />

Retailer Winter Market<br />

Booth 3551.<br />

Phone 704-639-2701<br />

Fax 704-642-2177<br />

www.polarguard.com<br />

ONLY BY<br />

Look for the<br />

tag of assurance<br />

Photography by Jimmy Chin

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