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May/June 2005<br />
Food For<br />
Thought<br />
Textile Ideas to<br />
Chew On<br />
· Ingredient<br />
Branding<br />
·<br />
Feel Good<br />
Fabricss<br />
Adventure Ventures<br />
Bee Dance<br />
Marketing
12<br />
18 28<br />
OUTDOOR TEXTILES 2006<br />
TALK TO THE HAND 12<br />
The aesthetic performance of fabrics won’t protect wearers from<br />
the elements, but whether combined with protective technology or<br />
flying solo, they aid in comfort level, style, versatility and durability.<br />
Literally a feel good story.<br />
By RJ Anderson<br />
NOT-SO-SECRET INGREDIENTS 18<br />
The brand visibility of component technology on retail merchandise<br />
can be an important leveraging tool for both manufacturers and<br />
their suppliers. Others would rather go it alone. Ultimately, does the<br />
customer really care?<br />
By Tony Jones<br />
BACK OFFICE<br />
DATA POINTS 34<br />
Some stats and figures that make you go, “Hmm…”<br />
By Martin Vilaboy<br />
GORP<br />
FAST, LIGHT AND OUT OF CONTROL 36<br />
Emergent signs of fast-pack marketing<br />
By Stuart Craig<br />
Letter from the Editors 6<br />
Retailers Report 8<br />
Rep Moves & News 10<br />
Advertiser Index 37<br />
THREADS & SPINS 26<br />
Outdoor textiles news and notes.<br />
FEATURE<br />
UPHILL CLIMB 28<br />
If you expect to gain revenue by adding an adventure travel component<br />
to your retail business, you better be in it for the long haul.<br />
By Lou Dzierzak<br />
The Legend of Dagda Mor<br />
Dagda, “The Good God,” is an Irish earth and father god,<br />
leader of the ancient Celtic tribe Tuathe De Danann, or People<br />
of Dana. A master of magic, the Dagda possessed both superhuman<br />
strength and appetite. Among his wealth were an<br />
enormous club that could both destroy and restore life and a<br />
great cauldron that provided an inexhaustible supply of food.<br />
He called the seasons into being with his harp and, from the<br />
cauldron of his plenty, fed the entire earth.<br />
A fearsome warrior and artisan, the Dagda has been<br />
resurrected by the founders of INSIDE OUTDOOR to protect<br />
and guide the publication as well as its fellowship of readers.<br />
Powerful, wise, authoritative, generous and unafraid of mischief,<br />
the Dagda will appear from time to time in INSIDE OUTDOOR to<br />
inspire, teach, amuse and occasionally cause trouble.
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Penny Pinching<br />
Behold the power of the penny. For all<br />
that it lacks in physical might, the penny<br />
Thus, any additions to these types of<br />
pricing models resonate exponentially<br />
more than makes up for incrementally across the number of consumers<br />
and conceptually as our root of economic<br />
exchange. It is more powerful as an<br />
intangible unit of measure than a zincfilled<br />
piece of legal tender. You know this<br />
to be true, if you’ve ever fantasized about<br />
receiving a penny from every person in<br />
America. No doubt a quick $2.96 million<br />
would fill out the old savings account<br />
quite nicely, no matter how long or how<br />
many penny rolls it would take to cash<br />
it in.<br />
affected by the increases. There’s no<br />
better example (or hotter topic) than<br />
our current flogging at the gasoline<br />
pump. Although early indicators in the<br />
first week of May showed that national<br />
gas prices were down from a record<br />
$2.28 per gallon in mid-April, we are<br />
still paying, on average, 39 cents more<br />
per gallon than at this time last year,<br />
according to the Energy Information<br />
Administration.<br />
Regular Gasoline Prices<br />
240<br />
Tony C. Jones<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
tony@dagdamor.com<br />
Gary Kim<br />
Executive Editor<br />
garykim@concentric.net<br />
Ben Folkerstma<br />
Creative Leader<br />
ben@dagdamor.com<br />
Martin Vilaboy<br />
Founding Editor<br />
martin@dagdamor.com<br />
Ernest Shiwanov<br />
Editor at Large<br />
ernest@dagdamor.com<br />
Editorial Contributors:<br />
R.J. Anderson, Stuart Craig,<br />
Lou Dzierzak, Brian Hewitt<br />
Jennifer Vilaboy<br />
Production Director<br />
jen@dagdamor.com<br />
Berge Kaprelian<br />
Publisher<br />
berge@dagdamor.com<br />
Cents per gallon<br />
220<br />
200<br />
180<br />
160<br />
140<br />
Jun Sep Dec Mar Jun<br />
2003-04 2004-05<br />
Source: Energy Information Administration<br />
DAGDA MOR MEDIA<br />
Robert C. Titsch<br />
President & CEO<br />
Gary Kim<br />
Chief Operating Officer<br />
Deborah Dellisanti<br />
Executive Vice President<br />
Becky Pennington<br />
Vice President/Finance<br />
Corporate Headquarters<br />
Schools regularly hold penny drives<br />
based on this concept and do quite well,<br />
thank you. Moreover, there are volumebased<br />
industries that are built on the<br />
concept of the penny. The photocopier<br />
business, for example, is predicated on cost<br />
per copy averages that in many instances<br />
are less than a penny. Similarly, our friends<br />
in the gasoline industry have long exploited<br />
the value of an extra nine-tenths of a cent.<br />
The return from high-volume business in<br />
these cases certainly adds up.<br />
The ripple affect across our national<br />
consumer base is staggering. “The<br />
consumer is responsible for 70 percent<br />
of the economy, and every additional<br />
penny at the pump takes $1.5 billion<br />
out of people’s pockets,” offers Merrill<br />
Lynch analyst Rich Bernstein in the April<br />
4 edition of Fortune magazine. Moreover,<br />
Bernstein says the 32-cent rise in<br />
gasoline futures experienced in March<br />
equated to a $48 billion tax increase.<br />
If I have a 17-gallon tank and fill up<br />
21001 N. Tatum Blvd.<br />
Suite 1630-449<br />
Phoenix, AZ 85050<br />
480.203.2513<br />
480.203.2514<br />
fatpipe@dagdamor.com<br />
www.dagdamor.com<br />
Editorial Offices<br />
INSIDE OUTDOOR<br />
1405 E. Campus Dr.<br />
Tempe, AZ 85282<br />
480.820.5676<br />
outdoor@dagdamor.com<br />
www.insideoutdoor.com
my car twice per month, an extra 39<br />
cents per gallon means that I likely have<br />
$13.26 less to spend elsewhere each<br />
month than I did last year and reduces my<br />
potential spending by nearly $160 for the<br />
year. Apply that to the outdoor recreation<br />
pool of 145 million participants the<br />
Outdoor Industry Association tells us we<br />
had in 2003, and we’re talking $1.92<br />
billion less a month in available funds<br />
and a potential loss of $23.2 billion in<br />
spending power for the year. Outdoor<br />
retailers would likely have garnered only<br />
a small percentage of these dollars, but<br />
the amount of money lost at the pump is<br />
readily apparent.<br />
How such incremental price changes<br />
actually affect overall consumer spending<br />
depends on many factors, but some<br />
indicators hint that consumers may<br />
be inclined to watch their pennies, if<br />
you’ll pardon the pun. Overall consumer<br />
confidence fell 5.1 percent between March<br />
and April, with expectations also declining<br />
6.9 percent, according to the Conference<br />
Board’s Consumer Confidence Index. The<br />
fact is that outdoor specialty retailers not<br />
only rely on discretionary spending for<br />
sales of gear and apparel, the industry<br />
as a whole is reliant upon enthusiasts’<br />
ability and desire to travel to recreation<br />
destinations to put that gear to use.<br />
On the positive side, general<br />
consumers seem to be less reactionary<br />
to ping-ponging gas prices than a year or<br />
even six months ago, although this could<br />
be simply a byproduct of having dealt with<br />
volatile pricing during the last 12 months<br />
and already adjusting their purchasing<br />
behaviors. Still, the number of shoppers<br />
traveling to stores closer to their homes<br />
in order to reduce driving distance is down<br />
from 43 percent last May to 35 percent<br />
in March, according to Retail Forward<br />
ShopperScape. Likewise, the number of<br />
consumers changing their vacation plans<br />
to reduce driving distance was at 13<br />
percent in March, down from 20 percent<br />
last May. ShopperScape also indicates,<br />
though, that 38 percent of shoppers are<br />
planning to change their driving behavior<br />
if gas prices remain high, which is up 8<br />
percent from last August.<br />
Traveler sentiment also seems to<br />
be up according to first quarter results<br />
released by the Travel Industry Association<br />
of America. Overall sentiment is up 2.5<br />
percent from the fourth quarter of 2004,<br />
while the ability to travel for pleasure based<br />
on personal finances is up 6.7 percent from<br />
last quarter. The affordability index is up<br />
3.5 percent from last quarter but is lagging<br />
12.3 percent from a year ago.<br />
This isn’t too surprising considering<br />
the TIA Travel Price Index at the end<br />
of March showed that the overall cost<br />
of travel is up 5.6 percent compared<br />
to a year ago. For its part, the price of<br />
gasoline jumped 16.9 percent compared<br />
to last March and was up 15.4 percent<br />
from the beginning of the year.<br />
One saving grace is that these travel<br />
figures are based on general consumers<br />
and not necessarily core outdoor<br />
enthusiasts. Outdoor recreation for many<br />
is both a lifestyle and a hobby, meaning<br />
the emotional attachment and value<br />
placed on recreational pursuits and their<br />
accompanying gear ranks much higher for<br />
them than the average Joe. As disposable<br />
income tightens, consumers still have a<br />
tendency to scrape together money to<br />
purchase items and experiences that they<br />
find fulfilling and equate with happiness.<br />
So while an occasional hiker may<br />
choose to spend discretionary dollars<br />
on a CD rather than a new pair of socks,<br />
chances are your core customers will<br />
continue to invest in outdoor products,<br />
albeit a few pennies less. – TJ
Retailers Report<br />
Consolidation Prize<br />
This month we ask: How has vendor consolidation affected the<br />
relationships you have with your suppliers? Have you experienced<br />
some positives, such as broader product lines under a single brand<br />
and perhaps lower prices? What about negatives, such as less flexibility<br />
in placing orders (lead times, quantities) and a switch in customer<br />
service from a personal touch to a colder corporate approach?<br />
Northeast<br />
“Honestly, consolidation hasn’t really<br />
changed anything with us,” says Dede Clapp,<br />
general operations manager at Bob Smith’s<br />
Wilderness Shop, a 17,000-square-foot<br />
standalone outdoor specialty store located<br />
just outside of Boston, whose doors have been<br />
open for more than 100 years. “I’m thinking of some of the bigger<br />
mergers, like Marmot and a lot of the snowsports companies as<br />
examples, and they’re all still operating as separate entities.<br />
“So depending on what you’re buying, you’re still dealing with<br />
the smaller segment of the larger overall company,” adds Clapp.<br />
“Nothing has really changed, but who knows what will happen<br />
down the road as they integrate a little more.”<br />
“So far it has had only minor effects,” says Mitch Osur,<br />
owner of Snow Country, a 9,000-square-foot specialty retail<br />
shop in Pittsford, N.Y., located 10 miles east of Rochester. “But<br />
I’d underline the term ‘so far.’<br />
“With most of the companies we deal with there haven’t been<br />
any major changes,” he adds. “In fact, I was talking to my Marmot<br />
rep the other day about it and he said, ‘If someone hadn’t told<br />
me we were bought out by K2, I would have no idea anything has<br />
changed. The company is running just like it always has.’”<br />
However, as vendor consolidations continue, Osur is wary<br />
of where specialty shops may fall within each vendor’s dealer<br />
pecking order. His concerns include potential ramifications<br />
of applying economies of scale, which could affect customer<br />
service, expanded territories for reps, shipping time, pricing and<br />
discounts for larger competitors.<br />
“A big concern is that the deliveries could start to become<br />
a disaster, especially now that smaller retailers are being a<br />
little more conservative and depending more on reordering and<br />
special orders,” he adds. “For example, one of our vendors used<br />
to be very good with deliveries, but now that they are so big and<br />
owned by such a big company, if you place a special order, you<br />
might get it in two weeks. By comparison, if I’m dealing with<br />
a small company and I place an order today, it will get here<br />
tomorrow.” RJ<br />
Southeast<br />
Vendor consolidation has left Bobby McCain<br />
with mixed emotions. McCain, owner of 19-yearold<br />
Buffalo Park Outfitters, a 5,700-square-foot<br />
specialty retailer housed in an upscale shopping<br />
center in Jackson, Miss. says, “One of the fun<br />
things about this industry that I really miss is<br />
dealing with small, independent, entrepreneur-driven businesses,<br />
which are becoming few and far between. Sometimes the smaller<br />
companies that are gobbled up lose some of the charm and the<br />
identity that made them appealing.”<br />
In particular, McCain says consolidation seems to be driving the<br />
paddlesports industry toward becoming “one big company.”<br />
“On the flipside, there are some cases in which smaller companies<br />
aren’t equipped to grow on their own, and the larger companies<br />
come in and improve the operational aspects, improvements that<br />
otherwise probably wouldn’t have happened,” adds McCain, citing<br />
Columbia Sportswear’s acquisition of Mountain Hardwear as a<br />
positive example. “I’ve seen reduced prices and samples arriving<br />
on an earlier basis.<br />
“But it’s really a case-by-case scenario, and the success really<br />
depends on the company in the acquisition mode,” continues<br />
McCain. “Some, like Columbia, have their act together and really<br />
improve the companies they acquire. VF acquiring The North Face is<br />
another example of that. It’s been great seeing the turnaround with<br />
The North Face since that acquisition.”<br />
Chuck Walker, general manager of Rockfish Gap Outfitters, a<br />
standalone 6,000-square-foot specialty retail shop in Waynesboro,<br />
Va., says he hasn’t really noticed any change in dealing with<br />
vendors affected through mergers and acquisitions. “For example,<br />
with Watermark and Yakima coming together, none of the potential<br />
negatives that could have arisen have been an issue,” he says,<br />
adding that placing orders hasn’t been any easier or more difficult.<br />
“It’s pretty much the same for both preseason ordering and when<br />
doing fill-ins.<br />
“That said, from my position, it is a positive,” adds Walker. RJ<br />
Rockies<br />
Susan Lambert, manager at Active Endeavors,<br />
a three-year-old 3,000-square-foot action sports<br />
boutique in Boulder, Colo.’s Pearl Street Pedestrian<br />
Mall, says her store hasn’t noticed any changes<br />
resulting from vendor consolidation. “There really<br />
hasn’t been much of an effect on us in terms of customer service or<br />
pricing or anything like that,” she says.<br />
8 |IO May|June 2005
David Goodman, owner of Mountain Miser, a specialty retail<br />
shop in South Denver, also says that not much has changed in<br />
terms of working with vendors. “Nobody is easier to deal with after<br />
consolidation,” says Goodman. “But we haven’t found anybody to be<br />
worse to deal with either.”<br />
Business logistics aside, Goodman does believe that once a<br />
company gets too large, they have a hard time remaining true to the<br />
“specialty” component of outdoor specialty. “Now with everybody<br />
owning everybody, what used to be specialty is even less so,” he<br />
says. “As a result, we’re constantly looking for the next special thing,<br />
which is the way it’s always been.” RJ<br />
Northwest<br />
Northwest specialty retailers in general<br />
say that vendor consolidation goes against<br />
the grain of the long-established specialty<br />
concept of small shop customer service<br />
and expertise.<br />
“Now more than ever, you’ve got little specialty companies that<br />
want to be bigger so they can be purchased by the conglomerates,”<br />
says Steve Teufert of Olympic Mountaineering in Port Angeles, Wash.<br />
“This industry didn’t used to be about the money. It used to be about<br />
the spirit of it all, about how cool it was to make something to help<br />
people climb Mount Olympus or put up a new climbing route in Index or<br />
crank tele turns in the back country. Now it’s about the homogenization<br />
of America. If this keeps up, pretty soon small specialty shops like<br />
ours will be forced to become just like big box chains or go out of<br />
business, and the customer will suffer if that happens.”<br />
“I’ve been in this business for over 20 years,” says one senior<br />
staffer at a small specialty shop in Boise, Idaho, “and I can tell<br />
you that the consolidation of the past five years has really caused<br />
vendor customer service to change, compared to the old days.<br />
Some of them just don’t know their product like they used to. And<br />
some of them have ‘timed’ allotments for each call. It’s ridiculous<br />
and doesn’t seem like you’re calling in to an actual outdoor<br />
industry business.”<br />
“We’re small. We run lean and mean, and money is always tight,”<br />
says an owner of a small independent climbing gym/specialty<br />
store in the Northwest. “With consolidation, a huge disadvantage<br />
for us is that we now have one accounts payable where we used to<br />
have three or maybe four accounts for the same products. You can’t<br />
shuffle your payable priorities very well when you have one big bill<br />
versus three or four smaller bills. Before consolidation it was easier<br />
to strategize cash flow in lean times.”<br />
This owner also says he feels as though his store is always<br />
under threat of being dropped by conglomerates for not meeting<br />
yearly dollar minimums. He contends that was not a factor when<br />
dealing with some vendors prior to being acquired. BH<br />
Southwest<br />
“Vendor consolidation has been great for<br />
us,” says a supervisor at the Albuquerque<br />
REI. “It has helped the way we do business<br />
and interact with vendors. When vendors<br />
consolidate it’s nice to have one payable instead of five when you<br />
operate with regional accounting for your store. It makes it simpler.<br />
Shipping turn times have gotten better with some of the smaller<br />
brand names that used to be slow.”<br />
This positive perception is not the case with some smaller stores.<br />
“I don’t like it one bit,” says a long time buyer at a small specialty<br />
shop in Sedona, Ariz. “The new large-company customer service can<br />
come across as detached, compared to how it used to be, and strict<br />
changes in billing practices can make it difficult to juggle finances<br />
sometimes. When you need it, there’s not much accommodation for<br />
long-standing relationships with a given brand.”<br />
Staff at a self-described “hardcore” shop in Dallas say that some<br />
of their favorite reps have been casualties of consolidation, severing<br />
what had been pleasurable business relationships: “The products<br />
are still available, but the familiar reps are gone. Sometimes after a<br />
small vendor is acquired someone new is assigned to the territory,<br />
and much of the time our employees aren’t real receptive to these<br />
new corporate reps. They were used to reps blowing into town and<br />
setting up climbing trips with them. Then suddenly someone new<br />
selling the same brand shows up and tries to high-pressure everyone<br />
into buying more, more, more. It doesn’t come off so well.”<br />
Adventure 16 in Costa Mesa, Calif., has rolled with the waves of<br />
consolidation. Says one staffer: “I see improvements in marketing<br />
from some of these small brands that suddenly have a big engine<br />
behind them. This improves public perception of the product, and we<br />
get heightened interest and increased sales as a result.” BH<br />
Rep Moves and News<br />
Wenonah Canoe/Current Designs has named Peter Whaley<br />
as its Eastern Canadian representative. Whaley’s territory includes<br />
Ontario, Quebec, Newfoundland, New Brunswick, Prince Edward<br />
Islands and Nova Scotia …<br />
TrailHeads announced several additions to its sales team. Mark<br />
Charpentier, formerly national sales manager of Cannondale Corp., is<br />
director of sales. In addition, Jackson Cyr, Matt Kabza and Libby Bliss<br />
from Action Sales have joined the TrailHeads sales team to represent<br />
the Pacific Northwest. Matthew Cox will service northern California,<br />
and Kenneth Miner will sell in Colorado and New Mexico …<br />
Indigo Equipment has retained three sales representatives to<br />
10|IO May|June 2005<br />
cover its New England and Pacific Northwest territories. Velocity<br />
Sales, founded by partners Michael Schmidt and Bill Bruzzese,<br />
represent Indigo in Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts,<br />
Rhode Island, Connecticut and Maine. In the Pacific Northwest,<br />
Indigo added Mike Burns to cover northern California, Oregon,<br />
Idaho and Montana. Burns was hired in conjunction with the Alta<br />
Group, which represents Indigo in Washington, Alaska and British<br />
Columbia. In addition to Indigo, Velocity Sales also represents<br />
K2 telemark skis, Garmont, Jetboil and Nikwax. The Alta Group<br />
also represents Atomic Nordic and telemark skis, Petzl and Sea<br />
to Summit.
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© 2005 WYNIT, Inc. All rights reserved. The WYNIT logo is a registered trademark of WYNIT, Inc. All other trademarks and registered trademarks are used to benefit and without intent to infringe on their respective mark holders.
T a l k t o t h e H a n d<br />
S p e a k i n g t o a e s t h e t i c<br />
p e r f o r m a n c e<br />
by R.J. Anderson<br />
Over the last few seasons the<br />
outdoor industry fashion<br />
market has undergone a certain degree<br />
of trend swapping with its mainstream<br />
cousins. As the function of outdoor<br />
technology has integrated the demands<br />
of mainstream fashionistas, savvy<br />
outdoor shoppers have come to expect<br />
more aesthetic appeal from their favorite<br />
outdoor brands.<br />
“We design with the concept of<br />
adding fashion to function, which is key<br />
for the outdoor market, but those same<br />
designs also cross over into the broader<br />
mainstream market,” says Kevin<br />
Williams, sales and marketing manager<br />
at Coville Inc, a Winston-Salem, N.C.-<br />
based design, marketing and conversion<br />
company for specialty knitted fabrics.<br />
“Both markets are evolving at the same<br />
time, and the two different crowds end<br />
up liking the same thing. It’s interesting<br />
the way it’s all gelling and coming<br />
together at the same time.”
BE THERE.
From finishing techniques to the basic design of the fabrics, outdoor<br />
fabric suppliers and apparel manufacturers are stepping up their game<br />
to feed this increased consumer appetite, and they are moving quickly to<br />
up their market ante. Gone are the days of cardboard-feeling synthetic<br />
fabrics and stinky polypropylenes, today’s specialty outdoor clothing<br />
racks are filled with all sorts of technology enhanced by aesthetic<br />
improvements. From the obvious, such as increases in natural fiber usage<br />
and blending, to the more discreet, such as using piece dyes in place of<br />
yarn dyes, outdoor gear is looking and feeling more like fashions found<br />
in upscale department stores.<br />
Coville has been at recent outdoor trade shows exhibiting a new<br />
line of bi-component fabric that is a lightweight double knit featuring<br />
stretch polypropylene on one side and stretch nylon on the other. The<br />
polypropylene worn against the skin offers the wearer antimicrobial<br />
benefits, odor control, moisture wicking and temperature regulation,<br />
says Williams, while the nylon provides softness and durability.<br />
The yarns are not a microdenier, he says, but they have similar benefits.<br />
“You don’t have to go all the way to a microdenier to get a great hand,”<br />
notes Williams. “That they are made from stretch yarns as opposed to<br />
spandex adds to the softness because of the way the yarns bulk.”<br />
The Demand for Hand<br />
One company that is doing its share to soften fabric technology is<br />
Malden Mills. Recently, the Massachusetts-based company switched<br />
many of its high loft fabrics from a yarn dye to a piece dye approach.<br />
Company spokesperson Nate Simmons says the improvements have<br />
created a softer glide, which eases layering and reduces bunching while<br />
offering what he calls a “super-luxurious touch.”<br />
Another benefit is that Malden’s fabrics will be available in smaller<br />
quantities, allowing more companies to offer more styles and colors.<br />
“The Mountain Hardwear Poodle Hoody is a great example of this<br />
fabric’s success,” says Simmons. “It has been hugely successful in core<br />
outdoor and has reached a very broad audience too.”<br />
An apparel manufacturer firmly entrenched in the middle of the<br />
fashion and technology integration trend is Royal Robbins. With a<br />
breadth of product that addresses the fashion-into-function angle, as<br />
well as the function-into-fashion elements, Royal Robbins is updating<br />
the feel and features of the fabrics the company uses.<br />
“We are working with Schoeller on their 3XDry to incorporate<br />
that into a very quick-drying performance cotton product,” says Diane<br />
Gallagher, product manager at Royal Robbins. “And we worked with<br />
Invista using some of their Teflon stain repellant finishes on synthetics as<br />
well as applying them to some more technical, synthetic bottom-weight<br />
fabrics.”<br />
In addition, Gallagher says Royal Robbins is also incorporating<br />
elasterell-p into denim. “Denim is very strong in the market right<br />
now, and we’ve got a really great functional denim which, because of<br />
the elasterell-p, incorporates stretch and wicking properties,” she says.<br />
“As we go into <strong>Spring</strong> 2006, another one of the functional features we<br />
are including is a core-spun, polyester wicking fiber that is coated with<br />
cotton so that it has the hand of cotton.”<br />
“The hand demand continues to be strong every season,” says Coville’s<br />
Williams. “The retailer and the consumer always want something softer<br />
so there’s a lot of focus in the manufacturing part of the supply chain to<br />
find ways to make a product softer and softer.”<br />
Softness, in many instances, is being accomplished through the use<br />
of microfiber yarns, higher filament counts in the yarn and knitting<br />
techniques, he says.<br />
“There also has been a bit of a return back to plain surfaces, which<br />
are naturally softer than textures,” adds Williams.<br />
Finishing techniques also can enhance the hand, whether face<br />
finishing, knapping or sueding, he says. “There are also some silicone<br />
finishes that are hydrophilic, meaning that you can put those on the fabric<br />
to give them a nice hand, but they won’t interfere with performance<br />
features like wicking and antimicrobial,” continues Williams.<br />
14|IO May|June 2005<br />
The Poodle Hoody from Mountain Hardwear<br />
Coville offers its bi-component group in three stitch types. There is a<br />
pointelle targeted primarily at women’s wear, a textured filament group<br />
designed to be a little more masculine, and a plain surface double knit.<br />
Another company reacquainting itself with the outdoor trade show<br />
circuit is American Fibers & Yarns Co., which is working to reposition<br />
its performance apparel fiber, Innova. “Through proprietary texturing<br />
techniques, Innova combines the hand and aesthetics of cotton, rayon<br />
and acrylic but with added inherent performance characteristics,”<br />
says Tracey Welch, market development manager for AF&Y. “With<br />
those techniques we can create softer, more colorful and more versatile<br />
garments, from casual apparel to athletic wear and outdoor apparel.”<br />
The fiber, which is used in woven and knitted goods, including<br />
socks, sweaters, jeans, thermals/base layers and fleece garments, touts<br />
aesthetic benefits that include pill resistance, stain and fade resistance and<br />
antimicrobial properties. “Innova is not topically treated so its performance<br />
benefits are inherent in the yarn,” adds Welch. “And garments made with<br />
Innova can be cleaned safely with chlorine bleach.”
Envying Green<br />
While comfort and feel certainly are important to pushing fabric and<br />
apparel, many apparel manufacturers are promoting fabrics that are easy<br />
to care for, something AF&Y speaks to with the bleach-friendliness of<br />
Innova. Kavu, which primarily uses wash-and-wear fabrics in its clothing<br />
lines, continues this trend with garments constructed with a Bamboo<br />
viscose blend, which the company introduced for <strong>Spring</strong> 2005.<br />
Bamboo provides the durable, broken-in hand Kavu customers<br />
expect, along with adding a component suitable for designing for the<br />
dressed-up consumer. “With the bamboo women’s pieces, we had<br />
this nice dressy, lineny, almost Asian-type fabric feel to it, and those<br />
characteristics influenced how we designed around it,” says Jodi Barr,<br />
Kavu marketing manager.<br />
Aesthetic Characteristics of Popular Synthetic Fibers<br />
Acetate<br />
Acrylic<br />
Lyocell<br />
Microfibers<br />
PLA Fiber<br />
(corn-based)<br />
Polyester<br />
Rayon<br />
Spandex<br />
Triacetate<br />
Source: FabricLink.com<br />
“When we’re designing we’re trying to target an audience interested<br />
in wash and wear,” adds Barr. “I was talking to one of our athletes and<br />
he said, ‘It’s amazing, but over the last year or so, I’ve become a buttondown<br />
shirt guy.’ And that now seems to be a demand from consumers.<br />
They want to be able to get away with wearing outdoor clothing brands<br />
at work.<br />
“We want them to be able to wear our products, look presentable,<br />
then throw it in the washer and dryer and wear it again without any<br />
added care,” continues Barr. “As an outdoor clothing company, we have<br />
to set ourselves apart from the Gap, Banana Republic and those places,<br />
and the best way to that is with the fabrics we use.”<br />
And as usual, it is key for that separation to be communicated on<br />
the retail sales floor. When a sales associate finds a customer looking at<br />
the product, it helps if the employee tells the story behind the fabric.<br />
For instance, when customers are holding a bamboo viscose piece, Barr<br />
suggests something as simple as, “Hey, check this out, it’s bamboo. The<br />
care is really easy because it’s wash and dry. And since bamboo is porous,<br />
it is breathable and wicking which makes it great for traveling.”<br />
And if it’s a fabric that will appeal to an eco-conscious consumer,<br />
a sales associate shouldn’t hold back any information about a fabric’s<br />
origins. “Like with our bamboo,” adds Barr, “we hope they’ll let the<br />
customer know that bamboo is a low-impact, readily available and<br />
renewable resource.”<br />
16|IO May|June 2005<br />
On the Same Page<br />
Luxurious appearance, crisp or soft hand; dyes and prints well; excellent<br />
drape; pill resistant<br />
Soft, wool-like hand; excellent color fastness; resists wrinkles and<br />
shrinkage; excellent pleat retention; flexible aesthetics<br />
Soft hand; resists wrinkles; excellent drape; dyes and prints well<br />
Finer than silk; extremely drapeable; very soft, luxurious hand; excellent<br />
pleat retention; available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon<br />
Similar in appearance and hand to cotton; excellent drape<br />
Crisp, soft hand; resists shrinking; excellent pleat retention<br />
Soft hand; drapes well; dyes and prints well; resists static and pilling<br />
Stretch and recovery; smooth, supple hand; static and pill resistant<br />
Luxurious hand; excellent drape; excellent pleat retention; pill resistant<br />
Whether supplementing function with fashion or implementing<br />
function into fashion, it is imperative for apparel vendors to have<br />
unencumbered dialogue with their fabric and fiber-distributing<br />
partners as they pursue desired techno-fashion mediums. At Royal<br />
Robbins, which offers a wide product base that works with both<br />
synthetic and natural fibers, working closely with its suppliers has<br />
been a key element to their success.<br />
“When we’re concepting, we look at where we want to be at the<br />
end, and that generally starts on the fabric side,” says Gallagher.<br />
“In many cases we work with fiber suppliers and fabric mills as they<br />
develop new methods of finishing. On CoolMax jersey fabric, we<br />
worked with the yarn supplier to get the right blend so that it has a<br />
hand that feels like cotton, while also<br />
incorporating the CoolMax function.<br />
“We work with companies as they<br />
are developing so we can give them our<br />
feedback on how it would be utilized<br />
in our industry,” adds Gallagher.<br />
“We also give them direction on what<br />
fabric mills to use to incorporate and<br />
commercialize some of their fabrics<br />
and finishes.”<br />
At Kavu, Barr says the company’s<br />
designers are always on the lookout for<br />
cool, new natural fabrics. “Suppliers<br />
will offer up some examples and we<br />
might say, ‘That’s great, but for it to<br />
work for us, it needs to be sturdier,<br />
or we need it with a different type of<br />
blend or a certain weight,’” she says.<br />
“A lot times we go back and forth<br />
and often nothing happens … but we’re really excited about the<br />
bamboo because this is one time we got the right blend and the<br />
right way to use it.”<br />
Driving the Markets<br />
The outdoor apparel market originally developed with the male<br />
consumer in mind. Enthusiasts were locked into shopping for<br />
specialty outdoor apparel that contained only the most cutting-edge<br />
technical design with little regard for how it looked or how soft<br />
it felt. But as the years have passed, outdoor apparel has evolved<br />
from its backcountry beginnings to a product category that finds<br />
itself upping its contribution to, if not driving, increasingly high<br />
expectations for function in mainstream fashion—for men, women<br />
and kids. You see it on hiking trails and golf courses, at outdoor<br />
concerts and in your local coffee shop.<br />
“Identifying market segmentation is very important, as is knowing<br />
the consumer,” says Coville’s Williams. “There is an evolution going<br />
on in the apparel market. Five, six, seven years ago you didn’t see as<br />
much performance in the mainstream market as you do today, which<br />
speaks to the transition and growth of performance. It’s important<br />
not only for the apparel people to recognize it but also the fabric<br />
people. We need to answer that demand and be focused on product<br />
development that speaks to that demand.” IO
E X P E R I E N C E T H E<br />
S P E C I A LT Y FA B R I C S I N D U S T R Y<br />
S a n A n t o n i o , T e x a s • O c t ober 2 7–29, 2005<br />
Including:<br />
FABRIC STRUCTURES 2005 AND TEXTILES & GRAPHICS 2005<br />
For information about attending<br />
or exhibiting at IFAI Expo 2005<br />
visit www.ifaiexpo.info<br />
Industrial Fabrics Association International<br />
1801 County Road B W., Roseville, MN 55113 USA
Not-so-Secret Ingredients<br />
What is the value of component co-branding?<br />
by Tony Jones<br />
In<br />
the race and clamor for market position and consumer<br />
investment, the size of your pie slice is often determined either<br />
by one’s personal fortune and fame or by the quality of the company you<br />
keep. Campbell’s Soup, IBM and Pepsi are household brands that command<br />
attention in their own right, without much pretense or concern from consumers<br />
as to how they are made or what technically differentiates them from their<br />
competitors. Conversely, in order to gain market leverage, lesser-known<br />
brands often turn to the strength of their technology partners in component<br />
co-branding efforts that leverage the value of partnership in promoting the<br />
end-consumer brand alongside a key element in that product’s construction.<br />
This type of ingredient branding is almost always a boost to component<br />
partners, which often exist in fiercely competitive and crowded “behindthe-scenes”<br />
environments. Positive consumer recognition for a component<br />
brand allows that supplier to leverage its position against competitors, which<br />
potentially means commanding premium pricing for its services and increased<br />
demand from other product manufacturers.<br />
The two best examples of this are probably Intel and NutraSweet.<br />
NutraSweet was introduced in 1981 by Monsanto and watched its consumer<br />
brand trust skyrocket after it secured visibility through Coca-Cola and Pepsi.<br />
Within six years, it had produced annual revenues of nearly $850 million<br />
and is now used in more than 3,000 food and beverage brands, according to<br />
Intangible Business, a brand valuation and development consulting firm.<br />
Intel, on the other hand, took its case directly to retailers and consumers<br />
by way of some 200 OEM partners, launching the “Intel Inside” campaign<br />
in 1991. In the midst of a blossoming PC market, Intel’s campaign created a<br />
point of differentiation whereby its message became associated with consumerperceived<br />
quality and reliability. Within four years of exposing its European<br />
markets to the “Intel Inside” campaign, Intel’s consumer recognition<br />
ballooned from 24 percent to 94 percent, according to a case study published<br />
by Intangible Business. In 2001, Intel was listed as the sixth most valuable<br />
brand in the world, with an estimated brand value of $35 billion.
Textile Tech<br />
These business models certainly are not lost on the players inside the<br />
world of textiles and outdoor products. After failing to trademark nylon<br />
as a brand and losing it to the purveyors of generic commodities, DuPont<br />
is credited by many as being among the first to pioneer the concept of<br />
component branding. As a result, Lycra and CoolMax are among the most<br />
well-known textile components recognized by consumers worldwide. In<br />
the outdoor industry, the list of relevant DuPont-created brand names is<br />
particularly impressive when you also consider that Thermolite, Cordura,<br />
Supplex and Tactel originated from the same supplier.<br />
firm based in the United Kingdom.<br />
Noting that this can vary by region, Penman says, “Lycra has a 50<br />
to 100 percent premium over other elastomerics in Europe but only 10<br />
to 15 percent in the United States.” A portion of Lycra’s extraordinary<br />
success in Europe could have resulted from an aggressive $30 million<br />
global advertising campaign that DuPont launched in 1999 to reinforce<br />
the brand and reach a broader audience. Also of note, reports Penman,<br />
was a successful Woolmark campaign that allowed the company to<br />
command nearly twice the price of competing fibers based “solely on<br />
its image.”<br />
The “World of Extremes” – a polarizing marketplace<br />
Growth and perceived customer value<br />
Customers seek low cost for basic<br />
goods with low emotional investment<br />
Mega-players capture market share by<br />
delivering “good enough” value at very<br />
low prices<br />
Mass<br />
Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />
To get an idea of what the component branding business is worth to our<br />
industry, consider that Koch Industries last year purchased these and other<br />
brands marketed under DuPont Textiles & Interiors for $4.2 billion. The<br />
former DuPont brands now share an impressive stable under the INVISTA<br />
name, alongside original KoSa brands like Polarguard and ESP.<br />
A successful ingredient branding strategy is an endless loop of ebb<br />
and flow between evaluation and validation. A component’s industry<br />
value can be determined by both trade and consumer demand, while<br />
that demand is created by trade and consumer perceptions of value<br />
added to an end product. When it works, the payoff can be lucrative<br />
because the value-add is typically in the form of functional features that<br />
improve a product’s technical performance, quality or aesthetics. This<br />
could mean softness provided through Tencel, stretch from Lycra or<br />
waterproof/breathable functionality by Gore-Tex.<br />
“Branded fibers in clothing can command high premiums usually<br />
between 20 to 50 percent, and sometimes higher, than their equivalent<br />
non-branded products,” writes Jessica Penman in a 2002 special focus<br />
report on textile branding for David Rigby Associates, a textile consulting<br />
20|IO May|June 2005<br />
“Bell curves”<br />
Undifferentiated<br />
competitors fade into<br />
irrelevance<br />
“Well curves”<br />
Competitive spectrum<br />
Elements that Impact Purchase Decisions<br />
Tangible Influences<br />
Intangible Factors<br />
Element Types<br />
Consumer wants and needs<br />
Consumer actions<br />
Competitor actions<br />
Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />
Consumer beliefs and emotions<br />
The Gore Point<br />
As with most textile discussions in the outdoor<br />
industry, the conversation inevitably circles around<br />
to Gore-Tex. This isn’t by accident. While outdoor<br />
products feature several noteworthy component<br />
brands, including Vibram, YKK and Polartec,<br />
none commands the general consumer recognition<br />
or trust enjoyed by Gore.<br />
While Vibram outsoles and Polartec fleece<br />
products are arguably the premium standards by<br />
which competitors in the market are compared,<br />
they simply have not burrowed their way into<br />
the public’s brand consciousness like Gore-Tex.<br />
Consider that in a 2004 Gallup poll conducted on<br />
behalf of Gore, 58 percent of respondents said they were aware of the<br />
Gore-Tex brand, and half of those said they had purchased a Gore-Tex<br />
product. If we are to believe the numbers, that means that more than 200<br />
million people in America are at least familiar with the brand. That’s a<br />
powerful stick to wield, and it slipped into the hands of W.L. Gore and<br />
Associates because it blazed a trail that parallels the success of brands<br />
like Intel.<br />
Frankly, if you’re going to be a successful component brand, it certainly<br />
helps to be the inventor of a category or the first to market it. But you<br />
also have to craft a product that works, capture demand and deliver. You<br />
also have to be marketing savvy, and Gore believed, like Intel, that the<br />
path to ultimate success begins right at the gate of consumer awareness,<br />
particularly backpacking and mountaineering enthusiasts.<br />
“Since there was not a lot of market inertia with consumers asking<br />
for something that they had<br />
no idea existed, we went to<br />
the consumer directly and<br />
Customers seek greater “personal<br />
value” when purchasing goods with<br />
high emotional importance<br />
Differentiated specialists build<br />
profitable niches by delivering relevant<br />
value to targeted groups of customers<br />
Specialized<br />
Examples<br />
told them the story and<br />
created that pull through,”<br />
says Steve Shuster, Gore-Tex<br />
brand manager. “In turn,<br />
that end consumer started<br />
going into their local retail<br />
or specialty shop and asking<br />
for this Gore-Tex fabric stuff<br />
they heard about.”<br />
Although it proved to be<br />
an expensive proposition, the<br />
idea worked. Retailers that<br />
were pressed about the fabric<br />
called manufacturers who, in turn, inquired to Gore about the technology.<br />
Landing The North Face as a licensee certainly went a long way toward<br />
building credibility, but Shuster says the real turning point was the<br />
initiation of Gore’s “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry” campaign in 1989.<br />
• Most preferred product features<br />
• Preferred information sources<br />
• Envisioning the best purchase within budget<br />
• Seeking new options and ideas<br />
• Setting product and service prices<br />
• Launching new marketing campaigns<br />
• Brand reputations of companies A, B and C<br />
• Emotional drivers for purchase
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“[Prior to the campaign] consumers were not satisfied,” recalls<br />
Shuster. “They were calling Gore saying they were getting wet and<br />
talking about it in terms of their ‘Gore-Tex jacket.’”<br />
To Gore, that meant consumers were equating the failure of a garment<br />
with the PTFE membrane instead of the manufacturer’s construction of<br />
the end product. Gore’s guarantee was initiated to preserve the integrity<br />
of the product, as well as strengthen its brand value.<br />
“We really had no other choice if we were going to be in this for the<br />
long haul,” says Shuster. “We developed end-performance specifications<br />
that really set us apart.”<br />
The result reinforced Gore’s pull-through model, increasing demand<br />
from would-be licensees and strengthened consumer belief in the<br />
technology. What we have today is a brand used as a point of reference<br />
by product manufacturers and retailers and a full-fledged trust mark<br />
with consumers.<br />
Elbow Room<br />
Gore’s lofty position doesn’t leave a lot of space for competitors<br />
to grab large portions of market share, and the company’s<br />
dominance is somewhat of a microcosm of occurrences within<br />
general consumer products as a whole. In a 2002 brand study<br />
published by IBM Business Consulting Services, analysts wrote,<br />
“It is estimated that just 150 SKUs in a household provide over 80<br />
percent of a family’s needs.” Moreover, new brands that enter the<br />
market have been slow to garner sales, and many struggle just to<br />
stay in business.<br />
“An IRI Information Resources study concluded that 80 percent<br />
of new brands’ year-one sales have been below $10 million and only 3<br />
percent have been over $50 million,” say IBM analysts. “Additionally, an<br />
analysis has shown that more than half of new products introduced in 20<br />
categories failed within two years of introduction.”<br />
That doesn’t mean there isn’t room for success. Competitors and<br />
their partners must be targeted and strategic, if not realistic, about the<br />
type and amount of business they believe they can win. A good start is to<br />
find a point of differentiation.<br />
“It’s very difficult to come up with your own proprietary type of<br />
technology and compete against Gore,” says one industry veteran.<br />
“Many people will try to approach it from a different angle, such as<br />
through coatings, so they are not competing head to head.”<br />
The real challenge is in creating demand. IBM analysts suggest<br />
companies become “either a manufacturing company or a branding<br />
company, and adopt an operating model that fits. Choosing brings<br />
consumer importance and retail leverage into greater clarity, and focuses<br />
resources on core capabilities and on the things that give competitive<br />
advantage.”<br />
Analysts suggest a back-to-basics grass-roots attitude, hitting the<br />
pavement in an attempt to earn a groundswell of consumer and retail<br />
support. Ultimately, IBM analysts say, competing brands have to move<br />
away from simply offering products and, instead, foster solutions that fill<br />
the life needs of consumers. Value is then placed on bundled products<br />
and services, co-branded products, brands that extend across categories<br />
and products that provide new benefits.<br />
This is potentially good news for textile components fighting for their<br />
fair share of the pie. In the tight waterproof/breathable space, eVENT<br />
has displayed some of this tenacity in winning support from European<br />
retailers and respected European product manufacturers like 66 o North
and Vaude. The company also has received consumer kudos domestically<br />
from independent gear heads, and in today’s realm of viral marketing,<br />
the worth of Internet-savvy early adopters spreading their good words<br />
via e-mail and blogs may prove to be invaluable.<br />
Still, these are small steps, and for any ingredient brand trying to<br />
make a name for itself and build value among consumers, retailers<br />
and manufacturers, the endeavor is a lengthy and expensive process.<br />
“Length of time is a function of investment,” says an industry insider.<br />
“If you wanted to do it all today and wanted to invest into some global<br />
ad campaigns that hit many different levels, you could certainly shorten<br />
the length of time. At the same time, though, you’re taking on a ton<br />
of risk.”<br />
Part of the danger is in placing resources. If a branding relationship<br />
is successful in one step of the push model with retailers, will it have<br />
the resources to pull customers into the stores? “Creating that perfect<br />
balance is so difficult because if you create tremendous sell-in and wind<br />
up with a ton of retail product on the floor that doesn’t sell out, it’s a big<br />
issue for the following year,” confides an industry source. “You lose a<br />
level of trust that is difficult to get back.”<br />
Name Game<br />
Much rests on the nature of the co-branding relationships. In all,<br />
there seems to be few drawbacks for component brands entering into an<br />
ingredient brand strategy with a product manufacturer. Partnering with<br />
an established brand with hangtags and logos on product is a virtual<br />
endorsement to the consumer by the host company that the component<br />
technology works, whether it’s an insulation, DWR coating or moisture<br />
management solution. Likewise, if the ingredient brand is well known to<br />
consumers, then a lesser known product brand benefits from perceived<br />
quality and credibility. Additional benefits can include shared production<br />
costs, promotions, advertising and research and development. For both<br />
parties it is strength by association, where the whole is greater than the<br />
sum of the parts.<br />
“Competition is so stiff out there that almost every product is a<br />
commodity, and if you’ve got a technological difference that can be<br />
twisted into a healthy branding story, then it’s a barrier to entry,” notes<br />
another industry veteran. “You can create a little more value there, and<br />
there’s not a lot of that when you’re talking about raw materials in terms<br />
of fibers and yarns.”<br />
But product manufacturers also can be leery of branding their names<br />
alongside a component that is widely used in an industry out of fear<br />
that the ingredient relationship will genericize the technology and, thus,<br />
weaken the product’s brand strength. The opposite side to that coin is<br />
what is at risk by not incorporating or promoting the use of a CoolMax<br />
or Lycra? If a component brand is well known and trusted among a<br />
majority of general consumers, then some customers may be suspicious<br />
as to why certain products wouldn’t include it as a component.<br />
Although IBM uses Intel’s microprocessors in some of its PCs, it does<br />
not actively market the relationship, and the familiar “Intel Inside” swirl<br />
that has helped bolster countless other computer brands does not appear<br />
on IBM products or packaging. IBM’s reasoning could be that it didn’t<br />
want to risk diluting its own brand strength by lumping itself with lesserknown<br />
brands that use the same Pentium chip technology.<br />
This is a legitimate fear among brands that view themselves as<br />
achieving premium status. In a report on ingredient branding published<br />
by Landor Associates, the consulting firm recalls a study conducted by<br />
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Research International in which consumers were shown several brands<br />
of chocolate chip cookies and asked if the addition of a premium brand<br />
of chocolate chips would increase the appeal of those cookie brands.<br />
While consumers believed the premium brand chips enhanced the<br />
value of middle-tier cookie brands, they thought the chips actually<br />
lessened the brand value of Pepperidge Farm. Consumers considered<br />
Pepperidge Farm to be a premium brand by itself and assumed that<br />
its cookies already contained the highest quality ingredients. “Instead<br />
of reinforcing consumers’ positive perceptions, the heralding of a new,<br />
premium ingredient actually generated consumer skepticism,” according<br />
to the Landor report.<br />
Stages of the Consumer Purchase Process<br />
Incubation<br />
stage<br />
Shopping and<br />
purchase stage<br />
Source: IBM Institute for Business Value<br />
Trigger<br />
stage<br />
Target decision:<br />
Choice of<br />
retailer<br />
Product<br />
selection<br />
In the outdoor industry, several major brands choose to tout “secret”<br />
ingredients in the form of proprietary components and technology, rather<br />
than promote an outside brand used by competitors. Not surprisingly, this<br />
occurs quite a bit within the waterproof/breathable and moisture management<br />
categories. Thus, consumers are treated to names like Helly Hansen’s Helly<br />
Tech, Columbia Sportswear’s OmniTech and Patagonia’s Capilene.<br />
Typical Fiber Brand Support Activities<br />
End-user Type<br />
Spinners, weavers,<br />
finishers and printers<br />
Garment manufacturers<br />
and retailers<br />
Consumers<br />
Source: David Rigby Associates<br />
Brand Support Activities<br />
Trade advertising<br />
Trend information<br />
Trade show attendance<br />
Trade show sponsorship<br />
Technical assistance<br />
New product development<br />
Point-of-sale material<br />
Trade advertising<br />
Post-purchase<br />
expectations<br />
stage<br />
Retailer info packs and education<br />
Fabric fairs<br />
Branding and quality assurance programs<br />
Swing tickets<br />
Explanatory leaflets<br />
In-store promotions<br />
Fashion magazine advertising<br />
Designer link-ups<br />
Billboards<br />
In each of these instances, the manufacturers’ names remain the topline<br />
focus and, in effect, position them as developers of sophisticated<br />
technology. With strong brand loyalty among their core customers, this<br />
likely bolsters their value. Interestingly enough, these brands and several<br />
others don’t exclude component brands entirely. Instead, they pick and<br />
choose to offer products and SKUs where they see strategic advantages<br />
to do so.<br />
Promoting a product brand without a component brand may also<br />
afford manufacturers complete control over the promotion of particular<br />
silhouettes and when and how a technology is used within a product.<br />
“Why be one of many?” asks a former industry veteran who has<br />
worked with several major brands. “Why not create your own technology<br />
if you’re going to spend that many dollars anyway?”<br />
For component suppliers, dealing with manufacturers that want<br />
to use their premium branded product but would rather not promote<br />
the component brand name, licensing negotiations can be a frustrating<br />
process.<br />
“Brand confusion, brand delusion is a critical issue,” asserts Shuster.<br />
“In today’s market, there is this explosion of waterproof/breathable as a<br />
kind of cost of entry. If it’s not waterproof/breathable, it’s very difficult<br />
to sell anything.<br />
“There’s a lot of confusion in the marketplace. We’re going to be<br />
taking a more aggressive approach,” he continues, noting that Gore<br />
will encourage consumers to look to its label for waterproof/breathable<br />
authenticity. “If we’re doing our job correctly, innovating and keeping<br />
the energy going into the brand, then our partners are going to want<br />
to use [the Gore-Tex brand] on the outside. If not, then we’ll have<br />
those discussions, and I’m not so sure how we’ll continue to have those<br />
relationships.”<br />
Consumer’s Choice<br />
The offshoot to all of this is what do end consumers care about? Are<br />
they more concerned with the performance of the component technologies<br />
or in the trust they’ve enlisted with a favorite manufacturer brand?<br />
Frankly, it’s difficult to tell. Industry veterans contacted for this<br />
story were split on what is currently driving consumer decisions.<br />
“The [primary] brand name is the first thing they look for to<br />
determine if they’re loyal to that brand or can identify with that brand,”<br />
offers one insider who believes component brands are becoming less<br />
important. “If they believe in the brand and it stands for innovation,<br />
leading edge and so on, they’re more apt to purchase it. That’s more<br />
difficult for a small, lesser-known brand with their own proprietary<br />
technology. They’re going to have to spend more marketing dollars to<br />
educate the consumer or retail channel.”<br />
Going forward, product positioning appears to be paramount. The<br />
danger is in disappearing from consumer consciousness completely.<br />
Many believe consumerism is fast becoming a polarized marketplace,<br />
where consumers seek goods either with lower prices and “good<br />
enough” value on a mass level or goods offering “high personal” value,<br />
emotional fulfillment and perceived relevance on a specialty level.<br />
While this bodes well potentially for the specialty channel,<br />
middle-tier brands may be forced with unpleasant choices.<br />
To optimize an ingredient branding strategy, the component<br />
supplier and product manufacturer must create the perception<br />
of premium value or risk falling into a group that IBM analysts<br />
call “undifferentiated competitors” that “fade into irrelevance.”<br />
There’s certainly no value in that. IO<br />
24|IO May|June 2005
Threads & Spins<br />
Outdoor Textiles News and Notes<br />
Partnerships<br />
The board of Australian Wool Services Ltd. has proposed<br />
a single vision approach for the wool industry that would see<br />
the structural integration of Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. and<br />
Australian Wool Services under the management of a single board<br />
and single executive. AWS officials believe stronger unity between<br />
the two organizations will improve relationships within the processing<br />
and retail sectors and help build global demand for Australian<br />
merino wool.<br />
“The Australian wool industry has fallen well behind in the<br />
marketing of its product compared to its major competitors of cotton<br />
and man-made fibers,” said Trevor Flugge, AWS chairman.<br />
The integration also would pave the way for increased joint<br />
funding and partnering on marketing projects on behalf of the<br />
Australian wool industry and drive unified efforts with research and<br />
development and technology.<br />
The earliest a formal proposal could be brought to shareholders<br />
would likely be late this year, the companies said.<br />
Global View<br />
China’s textile and apparel exports to the United States grew by<br />
63 percent in the first quarter of the year, according to preliminary<br />
data released by the federal government and reported by World<br />
Global Style Network. China’s success has reignited concerns for<br />
protection from the domestic textile industry.<br />
The amount of wool exported from China to the U.S. between<br />
January and March grew 62.5 percent from the same period a<br />
year ago. In individual categories, WGSN reported that the biggest<br />
increase was in cotton and synthetic fiber trousers, which grew<br />
1,521 percent. Cotton knit shirts grew by 1,257 percent, while<br />
synthetic filament fabrics grew 769 percent.<br />
The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition reported<br />
that 17,200 U.S. textile and apparel manufacturing jobs have been<br />
lost this year and said those losses would likely continue to mount<br />
unless the U.S. government initiates safeguards. Employment in<br />
the U.S. textile industry has fallen 36.4 percent from 1.05 million<br />
workers in January 2001 to 665,900 in March 2005, WGSN<br />
reported …<br />
United States imports of textiles and apparel grew in volume<br />
and value in December 2004, as well as for the year, and showed<br />
a steady rise continuing in January, according to The Woolmark Co.<br />
26|IO May|June 2005<br />
Wool textiles and apparel saw the largest gain of all fiber types in all<br />
three periods, Woolmark reported.<br />
Although China was the largest supplier for all U.S. textile and<br />
apparel requirements in both December and aggregate 2004, India<br />
was the main supplier to the U.S. of wool textiles and apparel,<br />
ahead of Italy and Canada. In January, China gained first position<br />
with an outstanding lift in aggregate wool apparel volumes imported,<br />
Woolmark said …<br />
In its 2004 annual report, Australian Wool Services Ltd.<br />
reported that global net domestic wool availability was down by 18<br />
percent in total and 25 percent in the apparel sector from 2000<br />
to 2003. The company predicted that global wool production would<br />
increase 2 percent during the 2004-2005 season, for the first time<br />
since 1989-1990.<br />
Fashion forecasts for last year and this year also indicate “a<br />
return to smarter dressing and natural fibers, with wool expected to<br />
have a higher significant presence at retail” for fall in the Northern<br />
Hemisphere.<br />
Products & Programs<br />
dri-release with FreshGuard has caught the eye of designers<br />
outside the sports apparel market, with women’s casual wear lines<br />
featuring dri-release recently launched by two women athletes familiar<br />
with the technology. Janice Fetter founded Spooney Wearever in<br />
Charleston, S.C. as a casual/loungewear line, and Helen Rockey<br />
has launched Seattle-based wildbleu sleepwear.<br />
Both Spooney and wildbleu are using dri-release cotton knits, a<br />
combination of a special co-polymer polyester and cotton. While the<br />
fabric possesses the feel and appearance of 100 percent cotton, it<br />
has a softer drape and is wash and wear.<br />
Both Fetter and Rockey set out to create multi-use apparel that<br />
allows a woman to feel fresh and comfortable around the clock.<br />
Another new market to embrace dri-release technology is next-tobody<br />
daywear such as bras and briefs, said Karen Deniz, president<br />
of Optimer’s European division and head of marketing. Optimer also<br />
expects dri-release with FreshGuard to soon be available in dress<br />
shirts and uniforms …<br />
IFAI Expo 2005 will be held Oct. 27-29 at the Henry B. Gonzalez<br />
Convention Center in San Antonio. More than 8,000 participants are<br />
expected to take part in the expo’s exhibits, educational programs<br />
and other events. This year’s educational program features more
than 90 sessions, offering a combination of technical papers,<br />
seminars, case studies and panel discussions.<br />
Included among the 14 market-specific tracks are business and<br />
leadership, sports and recreation, and textiles and graphics …<br />
Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. has pledged $5 million to<br />
an international apparel marketing pilot program. In April the<br />
International Wool Textile Organization Retail Taskforce requested<br />
funding from woolgrowers, international wool and textile businesses<br />
in part to help market merino wool globally.<br />
AWI’s pledge is contingent on being matched dollar for dollar by other<br />
international wool and textile businesses. The offer expires Aug. 31 …<br />
The reconstruction and expansion of Schoeller’s headquarters in<br />
Sevelen, Switzerland, recently passed the halfway mark. The textile<br />
company has been concerned with space restrictions in recent years<br />
and decided to expand its high-performance weaving mill, as well as<br />
the entire dye works and finishing department at the Swiss facility.<br />
In addition, a new logistics center is under construction with the aim<br />
of increasing supply readiness and customer service.<br />
In the context of the expansion work, and in addition to other<br />
measures, a new exhaust air purification plant also is being installed.<br />
a welcome figure considering the company’s string of consecutive<br />
net earnings losses of $28.2 million, $1.5 million, $7.6 million and<br />
$1.5 million in each quarter last year. Sales climbed to $386.3<br />
million for the first quarter this year, which was $92.5 million or 31<br />
percent higher than the same period a year ago and $14.1 million or<br />
4 percent higher than the previous record set in the fourth quarter<br />
last year. This increase was attributed to higher selling prices. The<br />
quarterly earnings were Wellman’s highest since the second quarter<br />
of 2002.<br />
Achievements & Awards<br />
Malden Mills Industries Inc. finalized its senior management<br />
team, appointing Jonathan Adelman as executive vice president of<br />
global sales and Edward Schade as chief financial officer. Adelman<br />
and Schade join COO Andrew Vecchione under the direction of new<br />
CEO Michael Spillane, who joined the company in July last year.<br />
Adelman has nearly 30 years of executive experience in the<br />
textile and apparel industry. He comes to Malden from New River<br />
Industries where he served as managing director. Prior to New<br />
River, Adelman was president and CEO of Lida Stretch Fabrics and<br />
China’s textile and apparel exports to the United States grew by 63 percent in<br />
the first quarter of the year. The biggest increase was in cotton and synthetic<br />
fiber trousers, which grew 1,521 percent. Cotton knit shirts grew by 1,257<br />
percent, while synthetic filament fabrics grew 769 percent.<br />
The plant will be linked to the existing machinery as well as a new,<br />
large-scale coating plant. Schoeller expects these measures to<br />
reduce emissions by 80 percent and cut energy input by 20 percent.<br />
The system is equipped with an electro filter and a wet filter that<br />
make it possible to purify the exhaust air while at the same time<br />
recover the heat. The move highlights Schoeller’s commitment to<br />
the bluesign standard for safe and sustainable textile production.<br />
The current construction is due to be completed Sept. 5 …<br />
PrimaLoft has signed on as a supporter of the Northern<br />
Forest Canoe Trail project, a 740-mile water trail which links the<br />
watersheds of northern New York, Vermont, Quebec, New Hampshire<br />
and Maine.<br />
“The Northern Forest Canoe Trail project is a great example of<br />
how private landowners, state and federal agencies and businesses<br />
can work together to create an ideal recreational area that benefits<br />
everyone,” said Tom Mendl, marketing director for PrimaLoft. “The<br />
trail is virtually in our back yard, and we feel it is important to support<br />
such a worthwhile project.”<br />
P&L<br />
Wellman Inc. reported its second consecutive quarter with record<br />
sales and recorded its highest quarterly net profits in nearly three<br />
years. Earnings for the quarter ended March 31 were $11 million,<br />
business manager/director of marketing of Milliken & Co. He will<br />
oversee sales in Asia and Europe, as well as in North America.<br />
Schade brings more than 35 years of corporate finance experience<br />
to Malden, most recently as CFO with The Hinckley Company …<br />
Smart Fabric Technology by Outlast Technologies was inducted<br />
into the Space Technology Hall of Fame April 7, as one of four 2005<br />
honorees, joining 48 previous innovators. Outlast founders Ed Payne<br />
and Bernie Perry were honored as Individual Inductees, and Individual<br />
Commendation awards recognizing those instrumental in bringing<br />
the technology to market included Martin Bentz, managing director<br />
of Outlast Europe; Roland Cox, Acordis Acrylic Fibers; Andrew Bell,<br />
global product manager for Ciba; and Monte Magill, vice president<br />
of business development for Outlast Technologies …<br />
Former DuPont employees Don Sandusky and Michael O’Neill<br />
have opened a product laboratory called PRIMO Innovations in<br />
Newark, Del. The new company will offer comprehensive materials<br />
science-based product innovation and product development services,<br />
specializing in recreational equipment and sports gear.<br />
Since June 2004, PRIMO has worked with a major U.S. sporting<br />
goods brand to develop and commercialize advancements in the<br />
bicycle tire and inner tube categories. The company’s NeverFlat<br />
technology promises to improve pressure retention of inflated sports<br />
products, according to Sandusky, PRIMO president. IO<br />
May|June 2005 IO |27
Image Courtesy of Royal Robbins<br />
U p h i l l C l i m b<br />
O f f e r i n g t r a v e l s e r v i c e s c a n b e a r e a l a d v e n t u r e<br />
by Lou Dzierzak<br />
If you’ve thought about adding adventure travel as an ancillary<br />
service to help differentiate your store and provide the springboard<br />
for you to circumnavigate the globe, you’re certainly not alone. It’s a<br />
romantic business notion that will most certainly enable you to see<br />
and experience many exotic lands. But it’s also a juggernaut of time<br />
consumption, logistics and low revenue.<br />
“It is a very difficult business requiring a great deal of time,<br />
generating little on the bottom line,” confides Steve Piragis, owner of<br />
Piragis Northwoods.<br />
Located near the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in<br />
northern Minnesota, Piragis Northwoods began offering guided<br />
28|IO May|June 2005<br />
paddling trips in 1979 and expanded to international tours in 1995.<br />
“We wanted to go on these trips ourselves, go along as guides and<br />
hopefully make some profit at it,” recalls Piragis. “Everybody I know<br />
who is in the business started because they wanted to see the world.”<br />
Despite troubling economic times and gloomy forecasts, the<br />
romanticism Americans invest in adventure travel seems to at<br />
least give the idea some merit. According to the Outdoor Industry<br />
Association’s 2004 Participation Study, the popularity of adventure/<br />
outdoor activity vacations increased 14 percent in 2003, with some<br />
54.9 million people participating in vacations that were inspired by<br />
outdoor adventure activities.
In addition, the Travel Industry Association of America (TIA)<br />
last year cast a favorable outlook toward adventure travel, reporting<br />
during its 30th annual Marketing Outlook Forum that 44 percent<br />
of CrossSphere (formerly the National Tour Association) operators<br />
offered soft adventure tours in 2003, up from 25 percent in 2001. In<br />
contrast, Hard adventures were offered by 10 percent of CrossSphere<br />
operators during that same period, a 3 percent increase from 2001.<br />
Likewise, the Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA)<br />
reports that “there are roughly 10,000 operators that offer adventure<br />
travel as part of their business.”<br />
The point is that whether travelers are interested in “soft” activities<br />
like camping, easy hiking and horseback riding or “hard” activities<br />
like whitewater kayaking, rugged backpacking and spelunking<br />
matters less than the mere fact that they are motivated to travel and<br />
apparently willing to spend their money.<br />
Last year, TIA forecasted a 6.9 percent gain in total direct<br />
domestic and international travel expenditures in the United States<br />
for 2004, which would account for $592.6 billion. The organization<br />
expected travel expenditures to increase through 2006, predicting<br />
a 5.3 percent increase this year to reach $624.1 billion in travel<br />
expenditures, which would break the $600 billion mark for the<br />
first time.<br />
What percentage of that will be allocated to adventure travel is<br />
unclear, but the willingness of would-be travelers to want to spend<br />
their money is certainly encouraging.<br />
“Folks are looking for something above and beyond. Something<br />
extra. Something different,” says Ed Schiller, director of Wild River<br />
Outfitters Touring Co. in Virginia Beach, Va. The company gained<br />
a solid reputation for its local guiding trips before branching out<br />
to adventure travel destinations such as the Caribbean and Belize.<br />
“We’ve been in business for over 25 years, and I thought if I could put<br />
together an international trip, our regular customers would know we<br />
would do it right.”<br />
Not All Fun in the Sun<br />
The excitement of international travel and the satisfaction of<br />
offering customers once-in-a-lifetime memories can be tempered by<br />
the work involved to pull it all off. “For the most part, customers<br />
are looking for us to handle all the details,” explains Schiller. “They<br />
expect one-stop shopping. Tell me what the price is and take care of<br />
everything from there.”<br />
Offering trips to locations like Chile, Belize, Costa Rica,<br />
Greenland, Iceland, Turkey and Vietnam requires tremendous<br />
dedication from a point person and additional staff, says Piragis.<br />
“It’s a huge time commitment; it takes away from everything else I<br />
do. It takes a lot of time and money to set these up, get insurance<br />
and get customers. It changed the way I do my business. I have a<br />
crew of 26 people working with me, so I can take time to do some<br />
of this. You need at least one full-time person, possibly more, to<br />
handle it.”<br />
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Both Wild River Outfitters and Piragis Northwoods rely on<br />
partners in the destination country to help with equipment, local<br />
knowledge and guide support. “It’s impossible to do the trips we<br />
do without having someone there with the gear, guides and local<br />
knowledge,” explains Piragis.<br />
Taking the time to find the right partners is an important step<br />
in ensuring a safe and successful journey. “We screen them pretty<br />
closely and we’ve enjoyed good relationships with the outfitters we’ve<br />
selected,” offers Schiller. “They provide all the things we need for our<br />
guests that we can’t bring along.”<br />
When arranging trips to Belize, Schiller considers several options:<br />
“I can charter the trip, meaning I buy the trip and it’s up to me to sell<br />
the trip, or I can add people to the charter company’s existing trips.<br />
Obviously, I’d rather charter the trip, but I have to accept the risk of<br />
selling it.”<br />
Securing customer commitments can be a difficult task.<br />
Marketing and promoting the adventure travel service can take more<br />
time and resources than the trip itself. “The trips are present all over<br />
the store [with photographs, posters and brochures]. You can’t walk<br />
into the store without knowing that we offer trips all over the world,”<br />
says Piragis.<br />
Customers are invited to attend slide shows and clinics presented<br />
by past participants who add credibility to the pitch. Getting<br />
customers to commit money and register is critical to success.<br />
“Running the trip is difficult, but selling the trip is the hardest part,”<br />
offers Piragis. “It’s always been that way no matter if you are outfitting<br />
in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or Chile. Marketing the trip<br />
and the actual selling is harder than you imagine.”<br />
Schiller says his existing customer base is the best source for<br />
selling trips. “I have a good database of customers who have taken<br />
trips with us in the past,” he says. “We send out an e-newsletter that<br />
highlights things like our Caribbean trips. We have loyal customers,<br />
and the best advertising is a satisfied customer’s word of mouth.”<br />
Once registered, customer service requires managing<br />
expectations and confirming checklist after checklist of details.<br />
“We clearly set out the guidelines. We spell out the activities on the<br />
trip. We give them a comprehensive package of information about<br />
passport, licenses and more,” says Schiller.<br />
Customers also receive information about purchasing travel<br />
insurance. “If you want to go to the Caribbean in September or<br />
October at the tail end of the hurricane season, travel insurance<br />
can cover trip cancellations, delayed flights, lost bags and medical<br />
emergencies,” he says. Travel Guard International offers customers<br />
comprehensive trip-based insurance coverage, including medical<br />
evacuation coverage, adds Schiller.<br />
Logistics are always an issue, and each destination offers its<br />
own set of challenges. “It’s very difficult setting up transportation to<br />
remote sites,” notes Piragis. “Charter flights, connection issues, travel
insurance … it’s complicated. We are prepared with contingency<br />
plans for everything. Liability insurance is a large expense.”<br />
Schiller agrees: “Liability insurance rates in the outdoor industry<br />
have gone up significantly in the last couple of years. If there is an<br />
incident somewhere, it gets nationwide [media] coverage and that<br />
affects your rates for your trips.”<br />
Great Expectations<br />
As customers prepare for a trip, a logical assumption would be<br />
that customers’ preparation for the journey could be a nice bolster<br />
to gear sales. Although additional purchases of trip-related clothing<br />
and accessories do take place, both Piragis and<br />
Schiller report that they do not typically account<br />
for significant amounts.<br />
Similarly, one might also assume that<br />
gathering a dozen strangers with different skill<br />
levels and expectations together for the first time<br />
in a new environment could lead to personality<br />
conflicts, but Piragis says the opposite is<br />
typically true.<br />
“To be honest, we haven’t had to deal with<br />
that problem,” he says. “We don’t do anything<br />
high adventure; we do easy trips for average<br />
paddlers. Most of the people on these trips<br />
are not aggressive 25-year-olds. They are baby<br />
boomers who want someone to show them these<br />
beautiful places.”<br />
This is an important point and an opportunity<br />
to target a very specific customer segment<br />
inside your store. Older travelers can exhibit a<br />
more refined sense of community, patience and<br />
acceptance, and are less likely to be irresponsible<br />
during the trip. They also have deeper pockets.<br />
In its 1997 Adventure Travel Report, TIA<br />
reported that travelers venturing outside the<br />
continental United States were typically college<br />
educated with a median age of 43.5 and a median<br />
household income of $73,000. Although this<br />
information has not been updated, it’s likely<br />
that the age of travelers has remained fairly<br />
constant, while their household incomes have<br />
probably increased.<br />
Another characteristic of soft adventure<br />
travelers is that they are more likely to bring their<br />
spouses and children, which also creates a family<br />
vacation opportunity. In that same Adventure<br />
Travel Report, TIA noted that 60 percent of<br />
soft adventure travelers took their spouses as<br />
compared to only 42 percent of hard adventure<br />
travelers, and 41 percent of soft adventurers<br />
included either their children or grandchildren<br />
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during their most recent trip as compared to an understandably<br />
lower 18 percent of hard adventurers.<br />
Although neither Piragis nor Schiller have experienced any<br />
major conflicts during a trip, strangers suddenly thrust together,<br />
spousal squabbles and sibling rivalries all hold the potential to be<br />
combustible situations.<br />
“We train our guides to adapt and recognize a situation that’s<br />
developing and handle it,” says Schiller. “We’ve had good chemistry<br />
on most of our trips. We try to keep the groups to 10 to 12 people. It’s<br />
more sociable, and they feel like they are getting personal attention.”<br />
Piragis takes a similar approach: “We hire mature people to<br />
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guide the trips who have life experiences and<br />
understand personalities and group dynamics.<br />
Our guides are in their 50s and 60s. They’ve<br />
CrossSphere Operators’ Products<br />
firm. “It’s hard to sell a trip if you haven’t<br />
been on it,” notes Piragis. “We bring<br />
potential partners along so they can<br />
Percentage of CrossSphere Operators<br />
Source: CrossSphere and TIA<br />
been around. The most important thing we<br />
do is send an e-mail to our customers about<br />
a week before the trip telling them that the<br />
most important thing they can bring along is<br />
a good attitude. It works well.”<br />
The Long Haul<br />
If you are considering adding an<br />
adventure travel component to your<br />
business, keep in mind that you won’t<br />
likely blaze any revenue trails. Building the<br />
business requires time and patience.<br />
experience the destination this year and<br />
then sell it the next.”<br />
Schiller agrees. “The outfitters that<br />
I deal with are reputable. I know they<br />
are going to do it first class,” he says. “If<br />
it’s something new, I will go and check<br />
it out first so I can market it fairly. It’s<br />
easy to talk about if you have first-hand<br />
experience.”<br />
Which is, after all, why most retailers<br />
get into the adventure travel trade in the<br />
first place. IO<br />
Travel Expenditures Will Continue to Rise<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Reserve your space in<br />
INSIDE OUTDOOR’s<br />
Outdoor Directory<br />
Coming in December<br />
For advertising information<br />
Call 480.503.0770<br />
berge@dagdamor.com<br />
www.insideoutdoor.com<br />
Source: TIA and OTTI<br />
“Our travel business has been growing<br />
but only because of the groundwork laid<br />
in the past,” says Piragis. “We’ve been<br />
offering Boundary Waters trips since<br />
1979 and international trips since 1995.<br />
It takes that long to build credibility and<br />
gain a core group of participants that keep<br />
coming back year after year. Those are the<br />
people that support the business.”<br />
One way to add adventure travel<br />
services is to partner with an experienced<br />
If you are serious about adding an<br />
adventure travel component to your<br />
business, you may want to consider attending<br />
the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s<br />
World Adventure Travel Summit in<br />
Seattle, Oct. 16-18. Expert presenters will<br />
discuss marketing challenges, liability<br />
insurance, consumer trends and how to<br />
expand the adventure travel marketplace.<br />
More information can be found at<br />
www.adventuretravelworldsummit.com.
B<br />
A<br />
Data Points<br />
Numbers worth noting<br />
by Martin Vilaboy<br />
C<br />
K<br />
Rich Content Radio<br />
Adults with household incomes of $75,000 spend between<br />
six and eight hours with the media on an average weekday. And<br />
in almost all markets, radio and television occupies half or more<br />
O<br />
of that total time per adult, say researchers at International<br />
Demographics. In many markets, radio gets the lion’s share<br />
F<br />
F<br />
I<br />
C<br />
E<br />
of minutes with media and appears to be the best means<br />
for targeting affluent Americans. That’s particularly true when<br />
considering that more and more adults are using more than<br />
one media at a time, says Bob Jordan, president of International<br />
Demographics, but much of radio listening is done while in the<br />
car, suggesting higher levels of attention. The impact of satellite<br />
radio is still unclear but certainly growing.<br />
Media Habits of Affluent Adults<br />
Market Media Minutes Share Media Exposure<br />
Eugene<br />
Radio 143 32.8%<br />
Television 123 28.3%<br />
Print Media 27 6.2%<br />
Outdoor 78 18.0%<br />
Web Sites 63 14.5 %<br />
Jackson, MS<br />
Radio 115 25.2%<br />
Television 170 37.2%<br />
Print Media 27 5.9%<br />
Outdoor 87 19.0%<br />
Web Sites 58 12.7%<br />
Pittsburgh<br />
Radio 204 38.3%<br />
Television 163 30.6%<br />
Print Media 27 5.1%<br />
Outdoor 79 15.0%<br />
Web Sites 59 11.0%<br />
Sacramento<br />
Radio 134 30.9%<br />
Television 125 28.7%<br />
Print Media 25 5.8%<br />
Outdoor 84 19.3%<br />
Web Sites 67 15.4%<br />
Salt Lake City<br />
Radio 140 33.8%<br />
Television 115 27.7%<br />
Print Media 25 5.9<br />
Outdoor 73 17.7<br />
Web Sites 61 14.8<br />
Seattle-Tacoma<br />
Radio 130 30.8<br />
Television 125 29.7<br />
Print Media 23 5.3<br />
Outdoor 78 18.5<br />
Web Sites 66 15.8<br />
Source: The Media Audit<br />
34|IO May|June 2005<br />
Retired but Still Working<br />
As retailers increasingly look to retired and semi-retired<br />
professionals to bolster their part-time work forces, it’s probably<br />
worth noting that older Americans are looking for more than pay<br />
in their “post-career” jobs. A survey of adults of more than 40<br />
years of age by JWT Mature Market Group and ThirdAge found<br />
that personal fulfillment was a primary factor in the decision to<br />
work in retirement. What’s more, of those who say they plan to<br />
“fully retire,” 70 percent say they plan to continue working at<br />
least occasionally in some form.<br />
Key Reasons for Continuing to Work after<br />
Retiring, Among those 40 or Older<br />
Stay mentally active 74%<br />
Be productive or useful 63%<br />
Stay physically active 62%<br />
Be around people 55%<br />
Keep learning new things 52%<br />
Source: JWT Mature Market Group and ThirdAge<br />
Loyalty Does Not Equal Exclusivity<br />
“The idea of customer loyalty, where consumers shop<br />
exclusively at a particular retail store, ceased to exist long<br />
ago,” says Gary Drenik, analyst with BIGresearch. Loyalty has<br />
been replaced by cross shopping, says Drenik, so your best<br />
customers are also likely shopping your competitors.<br />
Sample of Leading Retailers That Share a<br />
Majority of their Best Customers with Wal-Mart<br />
Category<br />
Retailer<br />
% Best Customers<br />
Shared with Wal-Mart<br />
Shoes Payless 71%<br />
Electronics Best Buy 62%<br />
Linens & bedding Bed, Bath & Beyond 54%<br />
Home improvement Home Depot 64%<br />
Prescriptions Walgreens 71%<br />
Groceries Kroger 65%<br />
Source: BIGresearch<br />
A Big Problem?<br />
Whether or not childhood obesity is a national crisis,<br />
marketing outdoor recreation as a way to combat obesity should<br />
resonate well, at least on some levels.<br />
Concern Regarding Childhood Obesity<br />
Believe it is a …<br />
All Adults<br />
Parent or Guardian of<br />
Child Aged 12 and Under<br />
A major problem 77% 70%<br />
A minor problem 21% 27%<br />
Not a problem at all 2% 3%<br />
Source: Harris Interactive
“…In my 15 years in the<br />
outdoor industry, I have<br />
rarely come across a project<br />
with the unique combination<br />
of virtue and service to<br />
community as Medicines<br />
Global(GB)…”<br />
Kenji Haroutunian<br />
OUTDOOR RETAILER<br />
Medicines Global Celebrates 5 years<br />
'Inspiring' Travelers to Give Back<br />
“ Most adventure travelers<br />
want to give back to places they<br />
visit without corrupting the<br />
culture. The idea of bringing<br />
medicines, which are badly<br />
needed, to drop off at designated<br />
sites is the most beneficial<br />
way to give back. The power<br />
of numbers is significant.”<br />
Greg Wozer<br />
Vice President<br />
LEKI USA<br />
“We proudly support the mission<br />
of Medicines Global(GB).<br />
Quietly yet strongly affecting<br />
global health through adventure<br />
travelers. Helping bring<br />
basic humanitarian first aid<br />
supplies to the remote regions<br />
of Nepal…and the planet.”<br />
Johnnie Kern - Team Member<br />
Medicines Global(GB)<br />
the humanitarian support arm for the<br />
Tsangpo Expedition, 2002<br />
Baby Friendly Hos pital - Lhasa, Tibet<br />
"...as people, our highest calling is to make a positive contribution<br />
to the world around us - wherever we are. Because we<br />
and the outdoor industry as a whole make our living helping<br />
people explore the globe, supporting Medicines Global(GB)<br />
is a natural choice. Through them, we not only contribute to<br />
the many communities that embrace our outdoor athletes, we<br />
also enable adventure travelers to do the same."<br />
Carry Porter<br />
Director of Sponsorship Management<br />
CASCADE DESIGNS<br />
Michael Besancon<br />
President<br />
Southern Pacific Region<br />
WHOLE FOODS MARKET<br />
inspire<br />
encourage<br />
give<br />
medicines global(gb)<br />
1524 s rexford drive<br />
los angeles, ca 90035<br />
310.556.0809<br />
Charlie Munsey ©2002<br />
Help your customers “give back” today by sending them to<br />
www.medicinesglobal.org
G<br />
O<br />
R<br />
P<br />
Fast, Light and Out of Control<br />
by Stuart Craig<br />
You might have heard something about “emergent<br />
behavior.” It’s how birds flock, how ant colonies move and how<br />
large populations in general become greater than the sum of<br />
their parts and act with, well, “emergent” intelligence. It’s the<br />
theory of the hive mind or of the swarm, the idea that there’s<br />
nothing innate in a single molecule of water that predicts a<br />
whirlpool or in a single snowflake that predicts an avalanche.<br />
It’s also one of the central concepts of Kevin Kelly’s<br />
outstanding book Out of Control, which is sort of an operator’s<br />
manual for living in this era of information overload and total<br />
connectivity. Reading it made me think that maybe, just maybe,<br />
this emergent behavior thing explains how marketing often<br />
unfolds in the outdoor industry.<br />
is titled “America’s Hardest Dayhikes,” and the taglines crow<br />
that “you can pull off the walk of a lifetime in one day. Just be<br />
forewarned: It’s going to be a very, very long one.” The shortest<br />
hike? Try 18 miles with 10,000 feet of elevation change. The<br />
longest is 41 miles with a 12,000-foot change in elevation.<br />
Even the Christian Science Monitor has taken up the cause.<br />
In the Sept. 30, 2004 edition, author Todd Wilkinson writes<br />
about GoLite founder and president Demetri “Coup” Coupounas<br />
and his solo unsupported trek of Vermont’s 280-mile Long Trail<br />
(12 days, 19 hours, 53 minutes) and Ryan Jordan’s electronic<br />
magazine/forum/pay-to-join community BackpackingLight.com.<br />
These two, says Wilkinson, are “leading a revolution that strips<br />
conventional hiking down to its sparest essentials.”<br />
Either fast-packing is indeed super popular among outdoor<br />
enthusiasts or it’s a case of an emergent pattern, sort of like<br />
how bees choose a new site for their hive.<br />
Specifically, I’m thinking of fast-packing, that darling du jour.<br />
Fast-packing and its equally nebulous cousins, “fast and light”<br />
and “done in a day,” (three terms often used interchangeably<br />
and/or as modifiers of each other) are everywhere — from<br />
ads, to sport-specific magazine articles, to product catalogs, to<br />
mainstream publications.<br />
According to GoLite’s full-page, part one of three, “Special<br />
Advertisement” in the latest Backpacker, “Fast-packing is hiking<br />
more miles per day than with traditional backpacking.” It is “well<br />
within reach for anyone in reasonable shape who is willing to<br />
try a new approach,” which, for “the elite,” translates to making<br />
“40, 50, even 60 miles per day…routine.”<br />
In that same issue of Backpacker, the lead story covers Scott<br />
Williamson’s (perhaps fast-packing’s premier poster child) first<br />
continuous yo-yo of the Pacific Crest Trail, covering 5,120 miles<br />
in 197 days while carrying a 20-pound pack. A second feature<br />
Given this kind of presence, I have to conclude that<br />
either fast-packing is indeed super popular among outdoor<br />
enthusiasts or it’s a case of an emergent pattern, sort<br />
of like how bees choose a new site for their hive. A few<br />
worker bees scout out the sites then report their findings<br />
by dancing for the swarm. The more enthusiastic the dance,<br />
the better the site. Other bees then check out the site<br />
and come back and add their emphasis to the original<br />
scout’s report.<br />
“It’s a rare bee, except for the scouts,” writes Kelly,<br />
“who has inspected more than one site. The bees see a<br />
message, ‘Go there, it’s a nice place.’ They go and return<br />
to dance/say, ‘Yeah, it’s really nice.’… As per the law of<br />
increasing returns, them that has get more votes, the havenots<br />
get less. … The biggest crowd of dancing bees wins.”<br />
Perhaps this is how all the marketing for fast-packing<br />
36|IO May|June 2005
Editorial Index<br />
66°North 22<br />
About.com 38<br />
Acordis Acrylic Fibers 27<br />
Action Sales 10<br />
Active Endeavors 8<br />
Adventure 16 10<br />
Adventure Travel Trade Assn. 29, 32<br />
Alta Group 10<br />
American Fibers & Yarns 14, 16<br />
American Mfg. Trade Action Coalition 26<br />
Atomic 10<br />
Australian Wool Innovation 26, 27<br />
Australian Wool Services 26<br />
Backpacker 36<br />
BackpackingLight.com 36<br />
Banana Republic 16<br />
BIGresearch 34<br />
Bob Smith’s Wilderness Shop 8<br />
Buffalo Park Outfi tters 8<br />
Campbell’s Soup 19<br />
Cannondale 10<br />
Christian Science Monitor 36<br />
Ciba 27<br />
Coca-Cola 19<br />
Columbia Sportswear 8, 24<br />
CoolMax 16, 20, 23<br />
Cordura 20<br />
Coville 12, 14, 16<br />
CrossSphere 29<br />
David Rigby Associates 20, 24<br />
dri-release 26<br />
DuPont 20<br />
Energy Information Admin. 6<br />
ESP 20<br />
eVENT 22<br />
Fortune 6<br />
Gallup 20<br />
Gap 16<br />
Garmont 10<br />
GoLite 36, 38<br />
Gore-Tex 20, 22,24<br />
Harris Interactive 34<br />
Helly Hansen 24<br />
The Hinckley Co. 27<br />
IBM 19, 20, 22, 23, 24<br />
IFAI 26<br />
Indigo Equipment 10<br />
Innova 14, 16<br />
Intel 19, 20, 23<br />
International Demographics 34<br />
Intl. Wool Textile Organization 27<br />
INVISTA 20<br />
IRI Information Resources 22<br />
Jetboil 10<br />
JWT Mature Market Group 34<br />
K2 8, 10<br />
Kavu 16<br />
Koch Industries 20<br />
KoSa 20<br />
Landor Associates 23, 24<br />
Lida Stretch Fabrics 27<br />
Lycra 12, 23<br />
Malden Mills 14, 27<br />
Marmot 8<br />
The Media Audit 34<br />
Merrill Lynch 6<br />
Milliken & Co. 27<br />
Monsanto 19<br />
Mountain Hardwear 8, 14<br />
Mountain Miser 10<br />
New River Industries 27<br />
Nikwax 10<br />
The North Face 8, 20<br />
NutraSweet 19<br />
Olympic Mountaineering 10<br />
Optimer 26<br />
Outdoor Industry Association 7, 28, 38<br />
Outlast Technologies 27<br />
Patagonia 24<br />
Pepperidge Farm 24<br />
Pepsi 19<br />
Petzl 10<br />
Piragis Northwoods 28, 30<br />
Polarguard 20<br />
Polartec 20<br />
PrimaLoft 27<br />
PRIMO Innovations 27<br />
REI 10<br />
Research International 24<br />
Retail Forward 7<br />
Rockfi sh Gap Outfi tters 8<br />
Royal Robbins 14<br />
Schoeller Textil 14, 27<br />
Sea to Summit 10<br />
Snow Country 8<br />
Spooney Wearever 26<br />
Supplex 20<br />
Tactel 20<br />
Tencel 20<br />
Thermolite 20<br />
ThirdAge 34<br />
TrailHeads 10<br />
Travel Guard International 30<br />
Travel Industry Assn. 7, 29, 31<br />
Vaude 23<br />
Velocity Sales 10<br />
Vibram 20<br />
VF Corp. 8<br />
Watermark 8<br />
Wellman 27<br />
Wenonah Canoe 10<br />
Wild River Outfi tters Touring 29, 30<br />
wildbleu sleepwear 26<br />
Woolmark 20, 26<br />
World Global Style Network 26<br />
Yakima 8<br />
YKK 20<br />
AD INDEX<br />
Adventure 16 7<br />
ASF Group 31<br />
Cam Commerce Solutions 22<br />
Clear the Air 21<br />
Conservation Alliance 33<br />
Cyclops 3<br />
dri-release 9<br />
Durapeg 32<br />
IFAI 17<br />
Kelty 23<br />
Medicines Global 35<br />
Polarguard<br />
Back Cover<br />
Sevylor 39<br />
Sure Foot 2<br />
Synchronics (CounterPoint) 29<br />
Tallysoft 30<br />
Wingnut 25<br />
Wynit 11<br />
Wynit/Magellan 13<br />
Wynit/Garmin 15<br />
Yaktrax 5<br />
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was born. A few people were doing it and talking about it —<br />
doing the dance, so to speak. “That fast-packing looks cool.”<br />
Companies and journalists saw the enthusiasm in the “dance,”<br />
and joined in, dancing/talking excitedly about it. “Yeah, it’s<br />
really cool.” Pretty soon, “As per the law of increasing returns,<br />
them that has get more votes, the have-nots get less.”<br />
OK, so people are talking about it and companies are<br />
making gear for it, but are outdoor participants and enthusiasts<br />
actually going fast-packing? Assuming they’d be included in<br />
backpacking and hiking numbers, Outdoor Industry Association<br />
participation figures indicate they’re not making a significant<br />
impact on overall participation figures.<br />
In both participant and enthusiast groups, backpacking is<br />
down — way down — more than 15 percent from 2001 to<br />
2003 in participant numbers, and more than 33 percent with<br />
enthusiasts to reach that segment’s lowest numbers in six<br />
years. Hiking shows a similar trend, with participant numbers<br />
down more than 7 percent from 2001 to 2003, and enthusiasts<br />
off by nearly 16 percent.<br />
What if fast-packers consider themselves trail runners? No<br />
joy there either. Enthusiast numbers declined over 16 percent<br />
for the same period, and participant levels were down more<br />
than 8 percent. How about Away from the Car Camping? Nope.<br />
Down more than 8 percent in participant levels and a whopping<br />
45 percent with enthusiasts.<br />
In fact, the only enthusiast activity that showed a gain from<br />
2001 to 2003 was road biking.<br />
So, again, I have to conclude that the fast-packing<br />
phenomenon is emergent, a product of the hive mind. In the<br />
immortal words of Strother Martin in Cool Hand Luke, “What we<br />
have here is a failure to communicate!”<br />
For at least the last six years, the outdoor population has<br />
consistently shown itself to prefer to do its outdoor recreating in<br />
short doses as a means to get away from the stresses of everyday<br />
life. Indeed, part of the OIA top line sales report for August 2004<br />
to January 2005 calls attention to the shift in why Americans hike<br />
and camp. Their motivation is less about conquering than it is about<br />
finding peace and having fun. And they’re willing to pay extra for that.<br />
The average selling price is up 16 percent on every kind of gear,<br />
which could mean that they’re buying more expensive gear or that they<br />
are buying the higher-priced stuff on sale to get a better deal. Either<br />
way, such purchasing patterns scream quality, not quantity. These<br />
folks are after the depth of the experience, not the breadth of it.<br />
And we promote fast-packing as “The Answer?” “In our hectic<br />
society,” reads the copy in the GoLite ad, “most of us don’t have<br />
the leisure time we wish we had. But here’s a way you can see<br />
more in a day than you used to in a weekend, more in a weekend<br />
than you used to in a week, and more in week than you used<br />
to in a month.” Isn’t this just a new spin on the old Euro tour<br />
philosophy of “if it’s Tuesday, it must be Berlin”?<br />
This is not in the least to say that there’s no merit to fastpacking.<br />
From a sales perspective, it certainly gives a strong<br />
reason for ultralight gear, which is GoLite’s specialty.<br />
My problem with this model is that it equates quality with<br />
quantity. The same ad shows Coup with 21 pounds of gear and food<br />
for a three-day backpacking trip but then suggests that “by doing the<br />
same trip as a 15 hour fast pack, Coup can leave 13 pounds of gear<br />
and food at home carrying only 8 pounds on his back. Woo-Hoo!”<br />
These types of ads and 41-mile “done in a (never-ending) day”<br />
hiking articles send the message that not only can you go further in a<br />
day if you carry less, but that you should. Is that really the best way to<br />
enjoy the wild? My goal when I want relaxation in the mountains is not<br />
to “see more in a day than [I] used to in a weekend,” but to see (a la<br />
William Blake) “a world in a grain of sand and a heaven in a wildflower,”<br />
to “hold infinity in the palm of [my] hand and eternity in an hour.”<br />
Given that, which sounds better, a three-day ramble in the<br />
forest with a light, 20-pound pack or a single, hard, all-day push for<br />
15 hours?<br />
To be fair, such 15-hour days can be fun, and they have<br />
merit. They offer challenges and give customers options.<br />
And just because the backpacking and hiking numbers are<br />
down doesn’t at all mean we shouldn’t try and rebuild them.<br />
The walking activities are, after all, the real core of outdoor,<br />
and perhaps another generation will discover the wonders<br />
of backpacking, thanks to all the cool lightweight gear now<br />
available. But marketing is not educating, and by equating<br />
“light” with “fast,” by stressing the quantity of travel versus<br />
the quality of the experience, I believe we are cutting our own<br />
throats for the future growth of our industry.<br />
How about “light and slow” as an angle? Enlighten hikers to the<br />
joys of cutting their pack weight not so they can hammer harder, but<br />
so they can simply be more comfortable, have more fun and, perhaps,<br />
comfortably carry a bit of luxury like a loaf of bread or a jug of wine all<br />
in a lightweight package. How’s that for quality of experience?<br />
Many of the tenets espoused by the Ultralight Wingers, er,<br />
Ultralight Weighters, are extremely valid, if for no other reason than<br />
they are being articulated in new forms and to new users. The<br />
systems and multifunction approach to gear and the “be a better<br />
outdoorsman/woman” approach to outdoor recreating that Ryan<br />
Jordan champions on his website and in a recent GoLite catalog are<br />
great concepts for all hikers, not just those shaving grams for the<br />
light and fast, done-in-a-day fast-pack.<br />
I came across a truism on the Internet the other day, while I<br />
was browsing the marketing section of About.com. “Customers<br />
don’t buy products or services. They buy good feelings and<br />
solutions to problems.” The first step is to figure out what<br />
good feelings they’re after and what problems they want<br />
solved. In that light, given what our market seems to want,<br />
does fast-packing provide good feelings, and is it a solution to<br />
a problem? Or is it an answer without a question? IO<br />
38|IO GORP
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Where you sleep is your business. How you sleep is ours.<br />
Visit us at the Outdoor<br />
Retailer Winter Market<br />
Booth 3551.<br />
Phone 704-639-2701<br />
Fax 704-642-2177<br />
www.polarguard.com<br />
ONLY BY<br />
Look for the<br />
tag of assurance<br />
Photography by Jimmy Chin