Southern India - Rolf Gross

Hindu Sanctuaries in India
Southern India
5th - 17th cent AD
For each section there exists a Google-Earth.kmz file which locates the places on the globe.
These files open only in GE, which you must have on your hard-disc.
Southern Indian Hindu Architecture
Trichy-Chola Dynasty
5th cent - 1279 AD
The Chola were a southern Indian dynasty that flourished in the 9th–13th centuries. Based on
the banks of the Kavery (Cauvery) River, the Cholas overthrew their Pallava and Pandya
neighbours and established themselves as the major regional force. The two greatest Chola
kings were Rajaraja I (reigned 985–1014) and his son Rajendra Cholavarma (reigned 1014–
1044).
The Chola Empire
During their reign, Chola military expeditions were sent to the Ganges valley and the Malay
archipelago, and magnificent temples were built at Tanjore. The dynasty lasted until c. 1279,
but lost much of its territory in western and central India during the 12th century. In addition

to making themselves into a maritime power, the Cholas built a system of local government
and supported commerce and the arts.
Their capital was Tiruchchirappalli.
Badami Chalukya Dynasty
6th - 12th cent AD
Badami was the capital of the Eastern Chalukyas, who ruled much of Karnataka and Andhra
Pradesh between the 6th and 8th centuries. It was founded in 540 A.D. by Pulakesi I (535-
566 AD).
Eastern Chalukyas were a South Indian dynasty whose kingdom was located in the present day
Andhra Pradesh. Their capital was Vengi and their dynasty lasted for around 500 years from
the 7th century until c. 1130 AD. when the Vengi kingdom merged with the Chola empire.
The Vengi kingdom was continued to be ruled by Eastern Chalukyan kings under the
protection of the Chola empire until 1189 AD, when the kingdom succumbed to the Hoysalas
The Rock of the Chalukpa Capital.
Photo Panoramio

Kalyani Chalukya Empire
1050 to 1195 AD
Kalyani (Basavakalyan, also Vengi) was the royal capital of the Western Chalukya (Kalyani
Chalukyas) dynasty from 1050 to 1195. Somesvara I (1041-1068A.D.) made Kalyana his
capital, to differentiate from the Eastern Badami Chalukyas.
Chalukya Fort at Kalyani 10th -11th cent AD
Photo Wikipedia
Halebidu, the Hoysala Capital
1040–1346
Halebidu, Karnataka, (which was previously called Dorasamudra or Dwarasamudra) was the
regal capital of the Hoysala Empire in the 12th century. It is home to one of the best
examples of Hoysala architecture in the ornate Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples.
Shiva and Parvati on Nandi, Halebidu, 12th cent
Photo Wikipedia

Tirumala
Venkateswara Temple
300 BC(?) to present
Photo Wikipedia
Tirumala Venkateswara Temple is a famous Hindu Temple dedicated to Venkateswara located
in the hill town Tirumala. The temple is built on the Venkatadri hill, one of the seven hills of
Tirumala, and hence is also known as the Temple of Seven Hills. The presiding deity of the
temple, Lord Venkateswara, is also known by other names - Balaji or Srinivasa. T\It is visited
by about 50,000 to 100,000 pilgrims daily, while on special occasions and festivals, like the
annual Brahmotsavam, the number of pilgrims shoots up to 500,000. A Southern Indian
Disney Land.
Entrance to the temple district.
Photo Panoramio

Crowds waiting for admission which is tightly controlled.
They are allowed to spend only a couple of minutes in the temple. Photo Panoramio
Today Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanams also referred as TTD is an independent trust which
manages the templel. The trust not only oversees the operations and finances of the richest
and the most visited religious center in the world, it is also involved in various social,
religious, literary and educational activities within Andhra Pradesh and India. TTD employs
about 14,000 people to maintain the 12 temples and sub-shrines under its control along with
the execution of its social activities. Text Wikipedia
For booking information see official website of TTD !

Elephanta Shaivite Caves
810–1260 AD
The Elephanta Caves (Marathi: Gharapuri Lenya) are a network of sculpted and painted caves
located on Elephanta Island, or Gharapuri (literally "the city of caves") in Mumbai Harbour .
The island, located on an arm of the Arabian Sea, has consists of two groups of caves—the
first is a large group of five Hindu caves, the second, a smaller group of two Buddhist caves.
The Hindu caves contain rock cut stone sculptures, representing the Shaiva Hindu sect,
dedicated to the god Shiva.
The rock cut architecture of the caves has been dated to between the 5th and 8th centuries,
although the identity of the original builders is still a subject of debate. The caves are hewn
from solid basalt rock. All the caves were also originally painted in the past, but now only
traces remain.
Shiva as Nataraja, the Dancer

Shiva as androgynous Ardhanarishvara: the sculpture's left is female and the right is male,
representing symbolocally the conjunction of Shiva and Shakti (Parvati). Ardhanarishvara is
one of the most prevalent forms of the Divine in Indian art since around the beginning of the
Christian era.
The most famous image at Elephanta is Shiva Trimurti (in his three aspects), to our left is the
face of Bhairava - god of destruction, and to the right is the female incarnation of Siva as
Vamadeva. Photos Wikipedia

Badami Caves
Vishnavite, Shaivite, Jain
Chalukya
6th cent AD
Badami was the capital of the Early Chalukyas, who ruled much of Karnataka and Andhra
Pradesh between the 6th and 8th centuries. It was founded in 540 A.D. by Pulakesi I(535-566
AD), an early ruler of the Chalukyas. His sons Kirthivarman (567-598 AD) and his brother
Mangalesha I (598-610 AD) constructed the cave temples.
Photo bergerfoundation.ch
The rock-cut Badami Cave Temples were sculpted mostly between the 6th and 8th centuries.
The four cave temples represent the secular nature of the rulers of the time, with tolerance
and a religious following that included Brahmans, Shaivites and Jains. Cave 1 is devoted to
Shiva, Caves 2 and 3 are dedicated to Vishnu, and Ccave 4 displays reliefs of Jain
Tirthankaras.

Dancing Shiva, Cave 1 Shivaite, 575 - 585 A.D.
Vishnu Varaha, boar-faced, 6th cent AD.

Bahubali (Gommateshvara), Jain Cave 4, 6th cent AD.
Photo by archivenews.blogspot.com
Aihole
Shaivate, Jain Chalukya
6th- 9th cent AD
The village of Aihole contains 7 temples from the Early Western Chalukya and later periods
(6th - 9th century) and one Buddhist and one Jain cave temple of the 7th – 12th cent.
The temple's unusual apsidal form is thought to imitate the earlier Buddhist chaitya halls

Photo usandeep.com
The circumambulatory
Photo indoarch.com
Huchhimalli Temple 700 AD.
Photo igougo.com

Meguti Temple, Jain, 634 AD,
Photo indoarch.com
This is a Jain temple built by Pulakesin II of the Chalukya dynasty on a lonely hill overlooking
the town. It has a square plan with a pradakshina path around the shrine. The pillars on the
outer walls, the base foundation and the parapet in this temple, are all hallmarks of the
southern style of the Later Ages. The first floor was added on later.
Ravanaphadi Cave Temple, Shiva Nataranya Dancing.
Photo Wikipedia

Pattadakal Shaivate
Chalukya, 7th - 9th cent AD
Pattadakal, a ceremonial site where the coronations of the Early Western Chalukyan kings
took place. The six temples all date from the first half of the 8th century. However, the
Kashivishvanatha temple seen in the photo is Rashtrakutan, from the second half of the 8th
century. Photo bergerfoundation.ch
Patattakal, Mallikarjuna (l.) and Kashivishvanatha (r.) Temples.
Photo from indoarch.org

The Pattadakal temples display a mixture of styles, like the much larger group at Aihole. In
the photo, for example, northern (r.) and Deccan (l.) towers are displayed side-by-side. All
the temples face east.
Viruksha Temple. Photo Archeological Service of India
Virupaksha and its "sister" temple, Mallikarjuna, were built 745 by two sisters, queens of
Vikramaditya II (733-746).
Examples of the often unorthodox sculptures in the largest Viruksha Tempel.
Shiva subduing Ravana who shakes Mount Kailas. Although the temple is dedicated to Shiva,
Vishnu is also present:

Harihara - Vishnu ("hari") and Shiva ("hara") combined half-and-half into one deity:
A trident-bearing gana on his right and Lakshmi on his left. His left upper hand holds a
conch. His right upper hand holds a attribute which looks like a chakra, although this would
not be correct for the "Shiva half" of Harihara. Note the solar disk engraved in low relief by his
face, on the Vishnu side. Photo clas.ufl.edu
Another unusual Chalukya sculpture from the Virupaksha temple (745).
Photo bergerfoundation.ch

History of Mahabalipuram
6th - 9th cent AD
The Pallava Dynasty
The Pallava dynasty ruled this region from 6th to 9th centuries. Their capital was
Kanchipuram. They were constantly at war with the Chalukyas and Pandyas until the Cholas
overpowered them.
Since the Pallavas had trade relations with many countries and invaded Sri Lanka, it is
understandable that the port city of Mahabalipuram was very prominent. It was built by
Mamalla or Narasimhavarman I Pallavamalla (630-668) Since the Tamil traders travelled as far
as South East Asia, the Pallava architecture was influenced by Shri Lanka and Southeast Asia.
Mahabalipuram was developed at the same time as Chalukya Badami and Aihole. The
evolution of stone architecture right from cave temples, rock cut temples and the early stone
temples can be seen here in sequence. - At Kalpakkam, 7 km south of this ancient town, the
Indian Atomic Energy Commission reprocesses its reactor wastes for plutonium bomb
production.....
Mahabalipuram
Shore Temple, Pallava
700 - 728 AD
The temple was rescued from the sea and reconstructed stone by stone after being washed
away in a cyclone. Recent excavations have revealed new structures. The famous Shore
Temple - built during the reign of the Pallava King Rajasimha - is the earliest important
structural temple in Southern India. Its three sanctuaries are dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva

Photos from a now blocked Russian Website
Mahabalipuram
Pallava Rock Relief
Early 7th cent AD
Descent of the Ganges or "Arjuna's Penance." - This magnificent relief, carved in the mid-7th
cent, measures approximately 30m (100ft) long by 15m (45ft) high. The subject is either
Arjuna's Penance or the Descent of the Ganges, or possibly both. Arjuna's Penance is a story
from the Mahabharata. The Ganges story is similar: The sage Bhagiratha performs austerities
in order to bring the Ganges down to earth. Shiva had to consent to break her fall in his hair,
because otherwise Bhagiratha power would have destroyed the earth.
The upper left of the relief depicts a mountain setting with grazing animals, lions, humans,
and celestials, Mt. Kailas, Shiva's abode in the Himalayas where the worlds of gods, humans,
and animals intermingle. Photo shunya.net

Mahabalipuram
Varaha Mandapa Cave temple
Late 7th cent AD
The entrance hall
The Varaha (Boar) Mandapa shows Krishna Govardhana, who lifts up the mountain to shelter
his followers from a storm. Photos shunya.net

Mahabalipuram
Mahishasuramardini Mandapa Cave Temple
7th cent AD
This cave temple has a garbhagriha in the centre with a porch and the walls of both sides are
sculpted. Photo indoarch.org
Mahabalipuram
Pancha Rathas
Pallava, 7th cent AD
From the left - Draupadi,Arjuna,Bhima, Dharmaraja and Nakula Sahadeva Ratha.

Draupadi Ratha is a small square with a sloping roof. Arjuna Ratha is a southern style vimana
with a stepped pyramidal roof. These five stone temples are erroniously called Pancha (five)
Rathas (chariots). Carved out of the standing rock, one behind the other, they are properly
named after the five Pandava brothers in the Mahabharata and their wife Draupadi. The style
of each temple is different and together they constiute a veritable catalogue of the temple
styles of the time.
Bhima Ratha
The Bhima Ratha is rectangular with a suspended roof and has a farmhouse look.
The lower portion of the Bhima Ratha is incomplete. Photos from indoarch.org

Kanchipuram
Kailasanathar Temple, Shaivite
Pallava early 8th cent AD
The Kailasanath temple was built by the Pallava King Narasimhavarman II in the early 8th
century CE. It is famous for its splendid vimana. It is the oldest of the four great temples of
Kanchipuram and contains numerous panels showing lord Siva as Nataraja in various
postures.
Detail of the vimana

Shiva Nataranya.
Photos from a now blocked Russian Website
Lakkundi
Chalukya, 9th - 11th cent AD
The Chalukyas who wrested power from the Rashtrakutas (9th-10th centuries), made Kalyani
their capital. Nothing remains of this city now. Most of the later-Chalukya temples are
preserved in Lakkundi. There are more than 15 Hindu and Jain temples in this town All the
temples are made of green schist and the outer walls and entrances are richly decorated. The
shikhara is an in-between-style type and the parapet and the artistic division of the wall with
pilasters is typical of the south-Indian style.
Naneshvara temple

Brahma-Jinalaya Basti, Jain, 11th Century
This Jain temple is the largest and oldest temple in Lakkundi. That there are three other Jain
temples here, shows that the later-Chalukyas were religiously tolerant. This temple has a
garbhagriha shrine and mandapa style with deep beams on the mandapa from where the
eaves are cantilevered. Photos and text from indoarch.org
Kanchipuram
Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Vishnavid,
Chola, 1053 AD
The Varadharaja Perumal Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. It was built by the Cholas in 1053. It
was greatly expanded by the following Chola kings. A very large complex.
Its "baroque" internal sculptures are its most significant aspect.
Photos from a now blocked Russian Website

Detail of the only partially visible culumn at left in the above photo. Photo Wikipedia
Kanchipuram
Ekambareswarar Temple Shaivite
11th cent AD
The Ekambareswarar Temple is dedicated to Shiva.

It is one of the five major Shiva temples representing the element Earth. Reaching a height of
57 meters, the temple's gopuram is one of the tallest in South India.
One notable feature of the temple is the Aayiram Kaal Mandapam, or the "hallway with a
thousand pillars".
Thunderclouds on a hot afternoon.
Photos from a now blocked Russian Website

Belur
Chennakeshava Temple, Vishnavid
1117 AD
The temple was commissioned by Hoysala king Vishnuvardhana.It is dedicated to Chena
Kesvara (Beautiful Vishnu) and has a cross-shaped centralized floor plan. Photo Amar Raavi,
flickr.com
“Beautiful Vishnu” Photo from Wikipedia

Thanjavur-Tanjore
Brihadishwara Temple Shaivite
Chola 1003 - 1010 AD
Thanjavur-Tanjore was the favored capital of the Cholas (10th -12th century), Nayakas (16th
century), and Marathas (17th - 18th century). The town harbors many temples, however, most
exciting are the Chola bronzes in the Rajaraja Museum. The Cholas were ardent followers of
Shiva
Brihadeshvara, is also called Rajarajeshvara after its founder (Rajaraja I, 985 - 1012). Its
thirteen-storied tower (all temple towers in India have an odd number of storeys) is about
66m high. The temple is dedicated to Shiva.

A collection of exquisite Chola sculpture can be admired in the Museun.
Shiva Bhikshatana, Chola, 1040 AD.
Shiva wanders the earth as a beggar, accompanied by a dog who jumps up for scraps. The
god is naked except for a snake around his hips, sturdy sandals on his feet, and various
ornaments. His left lower hand holds Brahma's skullcap; his right upper hand holds a drum,
on which he taps out the rhythm of the universe. The drum, dog, and skullcap secondarily
associate this form of Shiva with the cremation-ground.
Marriage of Shiva and Parvati, Chola, 11th cent.

Shiva and Parvati join hands, accompanied by Vishnu (right) and Lakshmi (left). Although
Vishnu is not on the same platform as the other figures, the group belongs together.
A most graceful Parvati, Chola 11th cent, Thanjavur-Tanjore.
Text and photos shunya.net
Halebidu
Hoysala 1220 AD
Halebidu (formerly Dwarasamudra) was the capital of Hoysala after Belur.Construction of the
Hoysaleswara twin Shiva Temples were begun around 1121 AD. Despite more than 80 years
of labor, it was never completed They have a common platform and two garbhagrihas, one
beside the other and a common broad navaranga.
The sculptures of the temples are getting more and elaborate, their forms rounder and more

south-Indian compared, e.g., to Kajuraho. They begin to overgrow the temple's outside.
Photos from shunya.net

Somnathpur
Keshara Temple, Shaivite,
Hoysala 1268 AD
A good example of Hoysala architecture is in Somnathpur. Here you can see the entire range
of the Hoysala style.The 50 m x 65 m precinct has a row of small shrines in the west, in its
enclosed corridor, as in Jain temples. There are three vimanas with a common mandapa, and
all three are very well preserved. They each have the cross plan. There are various gods and
goddesses lining the walls.
Circumambulatory of the temple.
Photos and text from indoarch.org

Warangal
Svayambhu Temple, Shaivite,
Kakatiya, 12th-14th cent AD
The Kakatiya capital shifted from Hanamkonda to nearby Warangal in (1199-1262). Laid out
in three concentric rings, the fortified capital was occupied by Tughluq in 1323. Conquered
by Vijayanagara in 1510, and by Quli Qutb al-Malik of Golconda in 1532, Warangal eventually
passed into the domain of the Nizams of Hyderabad.
A ruined temple of Shiva occupies the geometric center of the Warangal "Fort".
Photo chotu, Flickr
This extensive temple site was originally enclosed by a rectangular wall, with four gates. The
visitor today will see a confusing jumble of partially-reconstructed edifices, an extended
display of pediments, and carvings that were discovered on-site.

A lintel from the temple showing the Hindu Trinity, Kakatiya 12th cent. A bearded Shaiva
guardian of the shrine (previous page) carries attributes of trident, drum, and rosary (his
fourth hand is missing). The stylized, slender figure is typical of sculptures of this period.
Photo shunya.net
Tiruchchirappalli (Trichy)
Srirangam RanganathaTemple, Vishnavid
12th-14th cent AD
The Sri Ranganthaswamy temple is a quintessential, colorful Southindian complex dedicated
to Ranganatha, a manifestation of Vishnu.
Shiva emerging from the earth
Photos from a now blocked Russian Website

Tiruvannamalaiyar
Shaivite Temple
Chola, 9th cent. AD
Annamalaiyar Temple is dedicated to Parvati and Shiva Arunachaleswarar (as a Lingam). It is
one of the largest temples in India. The present structure and towers date from the reign of
the Chola kings in the 9th century A.D Photo Trekearth.com
The great Lingam at the center of the temple.
Photo from the temple's official website

Madurai
Meenakshi Amman Temple
12th - 14th cent AD
Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple - An amazing, piece of Dravidian Architecture. The
massive structure measures 254 by 237 meters. The temple precinct is surrounded by nine
gopurams (gateways).
Photo Panoramio
Eastern Gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple complex.
The fantastic detail of the Gopuram.
Photo napehtrap, Panoramio

And the equally colorful interior
Photo Panoramio
Thirupparankunram
Murugan Temple, Shaivite
16th cent AD
One of the six main abodes of Lord Muruga, (sanscrit Subrahmanya). Lord Murugan is next to
Lord Ganesha a son of Shiva and Shakti. After a contest with Ganesha over a mango Murugan
fled his parents house and settled in South India. It was here that he married Deivanai, the
divine daughter of the king of heaven, Indra.
One of the curious things about this temple is that Shiva and Vishnu face each other in the
main shrine, which is rare in Hindu temples.
Tiruparankunram offers a South-Indian experience otherwise only obtainable in the
Kathmandu Valley: a garish entry porch to a huge, dark cave lit by fluorescent lights, age-old,
nearly unrecognizable images rubbed with thick layers of tikka powder crowds of pilgrims.

Entrance to the temple
Interior of the temple
People having their puja
Photos from a now blocked Russian Website

Kanchipuram
Kamakshi Temple, Shaivite
16th cent AD
The intricate sculpture incrustation of the Kamakshi Temple.
Photo Panoramio
The temple is dedicated to the goddess Kamakshi, one of the forms of Shakhti. Kanchipuram
Kamakshi Temple is an important part of the worship of Parvati. There are no traditional
Parvati or Shakhti shrines in the city of Kanchipuram, apart from this temple, which is unusual
for a city that has hundreds of traditional temples. The form of Kamakshi worshipped here is
unusually benign. At other Shakhti sanctuaries animal and once human sacrifices were
common, see, e.g.. Dakshin Kali near Kathmandu - which incidentally points at the close
relationships between Southern Indian Hindu sanctuaries and the Kathmandu Valley. - It is
believed that the Hindu saint Adi Sankaracharya led to the more peaceful representation of
the goddess.