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The “Cape Cod” of Wisconsin? - Vitality Magazine Cape Cod

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Cherry orchards abound in the rural areas <strong>of</strong> Door County, <strong>Wisconsin</strong>., like this one at Orchard Country Winery & Market, in Fish Creek.<br />

<strong>The</strong> “<strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong>” <strong>of</strong> <strong>Wisconsin</strong>?<br />

Who knew? Yet, Door County (DC)<br />

has had that distinction for as long as<br />

anyone in the midwest can remember.<br />

<strong>The</strong> distinction is earned for the obvious<br />

reason: the county sticks out into Lake<br />

Door County Wisc. sticks out into<br />

Lake Michican, much as <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong><br />

sticks out into the Atlantic.<br />

Michigan. But there are other reasons as<br />

well:<br />

1) It has a bay side and an ocean side<br />

(a busy side, and a less-busy side). It has<br />

two corresponding main thoroughfares<br />

that run along Green Bay (Rt. 42) and<br />

the Lake (Rt. 57), like our own Rt. 6A<br />

and Rt. 28. But when you drive along<br />

the state routes that connect those two,<br />

you drive past scores <strong>of</strong> farms, instead<br />

<strong>of</strong> just houses. So while the coastal areas<br />

in the County are like the <strong>Cape</strong>, inland<br />

from the coasts is pure countryside,<br />

not suburbs.<br />

2) Also Rt. 42 and 57 merge and<br />

continue to the end <strong>of</strong> the peninsula, just<br />

as Rt. 28 and Rt. 6A do in Orleans.<br />

3) Like the <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong> Canal, Door<br />

County has a canal towards its southern<br />

end, the Sturgeon Bay Ship canal, which<br />

provides a shortcut from Lake Michigan<br />

to Green Bay.<br />

4) It has a tourism tradition that took<br />

<strong>of</strong>f during the Kennedy presidency. But<br />

instead <strong>of</strong> the Kennedy’s popularizing<br />

it, it was made famous by a big spread<br />

in a 1969 issue <strong>of</strong> National Geographic<br />

magazine.<br />

5) It has its own version <strong>of</strong> Martha’s<br />

Vineyard: Washington Island.<br />

6) <strong>The</strong> popularity and prices <strong>of</strong> real<br />

estate in Door County also parallel <strong>Cape</strong><br />

<strong>Cod</strong>.<br />

7) Like <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong>, Door County<br />

has a great reputation. Though it seems<br />

(Continued on next page)<br />

Wilson’s Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor is the center <strong>of</strong> social life in Ephraim.


Touring Peninsula State Park with Segway <strong>of</strong> Door County, in Sister Bay<br />

WISCONSIN<br />

further from one place in the County to<br />

courses--combined with rural vistas--<br />

make the place a relaxing vacation spot.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are also hundreds <strong>of</strong> renowned<br />

artists and galleries, music and performing<br />

arts. Restaurants in the area are superb;<br />

and many <strong>of</strong>fer a traditional fish<br />

boil.<br />

<strong>The</strong> traditional fish boil began as an<br />

economical way to feed large, hungry<br />

groups <strong>of</strong> lumberjacks and fishermen.<br />

It stuck. Today, when you attend a fish<br />

boil in DC, it’s very akin in excitement<br />

to a clambake on the <strong>Cape</strong>. It starts with<br />

a boilmaster building a hot wood fire<br />

under a kettle <strong>of</strong> salted water. When the<br />

temperature is just right, the boilmaster<br />

adds to the kettle a porous steel basket<br />

filled with small potatoes and onions.<br />

<strong>The</strong>n another basket <strong>of</strong> fresh whitefish<br />

steaks are added and the water is brought<br />

back to a rolling boil. Finally, a dose <strong>of</strong><br />

kerosene is tossed onto the fire, causing<br />

it to blaze well over the top <strong>of</strong> the kettle.<br />

<strong>The</strong> superheated fire causes the water<br />

to boil over the kettle’s sides, dousing<br />

the flames while carrying <strong>of</strong>f the fish oil<br />

that has collected on the surface. With<br />

the use <strong>of</strong> a metal pole, the baskets are<br />

lifted from the kettle, drained, and then<br />

served up with a generous drizzling <strong>of</strong><br />

Picking your own cherries at Orchard<br />

Country Winery & Market in Fish Creek.<br />

save room for the traditional dessert…<br />

DC cherry pie.<br />

Cherries, in fact, are a big deal in<br />

Door County, which is the 4th largest<br />

cherry-producing area in the nation,<br />

behind Michigan, New York and Utah.<br />

Each tree produces about 7,000 cherries.<br />

And there are about 2,200 acres <strong>of</strong><br />

(Continued from previouse page) another. Such being the case, it should butter. Getting seconds is expected. But<br />

(Continued on page 16)<br />

unknown to Easterners, it was named<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the top-ten vacation destinations<br />

in North America by Money <strong>Magazine</strong>.<br />

And it was voted Best Small-Town Getaway<br />

in the Midwest, by Midwest Living<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong>, June 2007.<br />

While Door County, <strong>Wisconsin</strong> juts<br />

out into the waters <strong>of</strong> Lake Michigan, it<br />

is not shaped like <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong>’s arm, but<br />

instead is a peninsula—one that gets<br />

narrower the further it extends into Lake<br />

Michigan from its upper <strong>Wisconsin</strong> location.<br />

It’s as big as <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong>, but seems<br />

bigger, because there are fewer towns.<br />

surprise no one that the year-round<br />

population in DC is about ten times less<br />

than <strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong>. (Sturgeon Bay, however,<br />

is the “big city” <strong>of</strong> DC--sort <strong>of</strong> its<br />

“Hyannis.”)<br />

This <strong>Wisconsin</strong> peninsula <strong>of</strong>fers 300<br />

miles <strong>of</strong> shoreline dotted with harbors<br />

and quiet coves. It <strong>of</strong>fers water-based<br />

recreation, like sailing, cruising, boating,<br />

fishing, or boat rentals and charters.<br />

Plus, there is a unique car ferry to Washington<br />

Island.<br />

Five state parks, ten lighthouses and<br />

more than a dozen county parks <strong>of</strong>fer:<br />

hiking, biking and sightseeing opportunities.<br />

For this reason, it seems the drive is<br />

Eleven reasonably-priced golf<br />

<strong>The</strong> Cherry Train tram is a great way to see Washington Island.


WISCONSIN<br />

(Continued from page 15)<br />

cherry trees in DC. Only 100 acres <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Wisconsin</strong> cherries are grown outside <strong>of</strong><br />

Door County. <strong>The</strong> bulk <strong>of</strong> the cherries<br />

grown are Montmorency Cherries, also<br />

known as sour, red, or dessert cherries,<br />

and there are 13 million pounds <strong>of</strong> cherries<br />

harvested in DC every year. Harvest<br />

months are July and August.<br />

Door County Attractions and Activities:<br />

<strong>The</strong> Cana Island lighthouse<br />

“Cabin With A View,” performed under the stars in Peninsula State<br />

Park in Fish Creek, by the American Folklore <strong>The</strong>atre<br />

Young percussions perform at Birch Creek Music Performance Center in Egg Harbor before an appreciative packed house.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Door County Trolley Lighthouse<br />

Tour is great fun. It visits 4 lighthouses.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s also the Door County<br />

Trolley Narrated Scenic Tour, where<br />

you can see breathtaking vistas from<br />

DC’s bluffs overlooking the islands and<br />

learn local lore along the way. (www.<br />

doorcountytrolley.com)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Door County Cruise is a narrated<br />

two-hour cruise to the Sturgeon<br />

Bay Canal Station and Sherwood Point<br />

Lighthouse. Boat tours depart from<br />

Sturgeon Bay next to the Maritime Museum.<br />

(www.doorcountycruises.com)<br />

Ephraim is one <strong>of</strong> the most picturesque<br />

little towns (pop. 300) on the Bay<br />

side <strong>of</strong> the County, overlooking Eagle<br />

Harbor. <strong>The</strong> heritage here is Moravian<br />

and Norwegian; and there are many<br />

historic buildings. For its size, it <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

an amazing number <strong>of</strong> things to do and<br />

places to stay and dine at. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

museums, an old fashioned Drive-In<br />

<strong>The</strong>ater, boat rentals, and loads <strong>of</strong> art<br />

galleries. <strong>The</strong>re’s a wonderful outdoor<br />

theatre at Peninsula State Park (www.<br />

folkloretheatre.com), a summer music<br />

festival (www.midsummersmusic.com)<br />

and a Peninsula Music Festival—which<br />

features classic music every August.<br />

(www.musicfestival.com). Also, a tour<br />

is available <strong>of</strong> the four Village Museums<br />

in Ephraim. <strong>The</strong>se are quite interesting<br />

and shouldn’t be missed. You can purchase<br />

a museum tour ticket at any <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Ephraim museums. (www.ephraim.org)<br />

Birch Creek is sort <strong>of</strong> an “Interlochen”-style<br />

summer music camp for<br />

young percussionists from around the<br />

country, located in Egg Harbor. <strong>The</strong><br />

Birch Creek Summer Concerts are held<br />

June through August – an aggressive<br />

performance schedule – and locals pretty<br />

much pack the place for every concert.<br />

This venue should not be missed.<br />

(www.birchcreek.org)<br />

America’s oldest pr<strong>of</strong>essional resident<br />

summer theater is “<strong>The</strong> Peninsula<br />

Players.” <strong>The</strong>y perform at the <strong>The</strong>atrein-a-garden<br />

in Fish Creek, <strong>Wisconsin</strong><br />

from mid-June to mid-October every<br />

year, with some excellent shows. (www.<br />

peninsulaplayers.com)<br />

(Continued on next page)<br />

Whitefish boilmaster Tom Christianson<br />

stokes up the fire at White<br />

Gull Inn, in Fish Creek.


<strong>The</strong> 3rd hole at the otherwise difficult<br />

Peninsula State Park Golf Course<br />

is quite the novelty...all 69 ft. <strong>of</strong> it.<br />

<strong>The</strong> entire course is a par 71!<br />

WISCONSIN<br />

(Continued from prevous page)<br />

<strong>The</strong> two most enjoyable shopping<br />

areas in DC are Egg Harbor and Fish<br />

Creek. While in Egg Harbor, don’t miss<br />

Liberty Square, a relatively new conclave<br />

<strong>of</strong> dining and shops—all under<br />

one ro<strong>of</strong>. (www.libertysquareshops.<br />

com) Fish Creek is similar to our own<br />

Chatham. <strong>The</strong> town’s Noble Square <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

hosts live music.<br />

Visiting lighthouses in DC is an important<br />

part <strong>of</strong> understanding the area’s<br />

history. For that reason, if you just see<br />

one lighthouse, make it the Cana Island<br />

Lighthouse, north <strong>of</strong> Bailey’s Harbor.<br />

Located on an 8.7 acre island (accessible<br />

by a causeway), the lighthouse’ history<br />

dates from 1869, and is open to the<br />

public. Also, in terms <strong>of</strong> maritime history,<br />

the Door County Maritime Museum,<br />

overlooking Sturgeon Bay, is a must-see<br />

for history buffs. (www.dcmm.org)<br />

Ridges Sanctuary, at Baileys Harbor,<br />

is a 1200-acre preserve where you<br />

can witness hundreds <strong>of</strong> types <strong>of</strong> wildflowers<br />

along five miles <strong>of</strong> rustic trails<br />

and bridges. Hiking here is a great time.<br />

(www.ridgesanctuary.org)<br />

A trip to Orchard Country Winery<br />

and Market, in Fish Creek, is a lot <strong>of</strong><br />

fun. <strong>The</strong> grounds are beautiful. And the<br />

market there has a wonderful assortment<br />

<strong>of</strong> food, drink and gifts you’ll want to<br />

bring home with you. Try a tasting <strong>of</strong><br />

their cherry wine. (www.orchardcountry.com)<br />

Golfers will love the par 71 course<br />

at Peninsula State Park Golf Course.<br />

(www.peninsulagolf.com) It’s inexpensive,<br />

well-maintained, has magnificent<br />

views <strong>of</strong> the majestic woods <strong>of</strong> Peninsula<br />

State Park, plus stunning views<br />

<strong>of</strong> Eagle Harbor, and the 3rd hole is a<br />

hoot…all 69 feet <strong>of</strong> it. <strong>The</strong> hole is about<br />

Sister Bay’s very photogenic Coachlite Inn<br />

Resident goats dine above, while appreciative diners eat inside,<br />

at Al Johnson’s Swedish Pancake House in Sister Bay.<br />

a 60 degree angle downhill <strong>of</strong> the tee. So<br />

some folks enjoy teeing <strong>of</strong>f twice—once<br />

with a wedge, and a second time with a<br />

toss – a new wrinkle on “best ball.”<br />

Washington Island:<br />

Anyone visiting DC should plan to<br />

take in Washington Island for at least a<br />

full day. With a population <strong>of</strong> only 680,<br />

Washington Island is a relaxing, smalltown<br />

place. Not a single chain or franchise<br />

on the island. And one grocery<br />

store has served the island since 1903.<br />

It’s also surprisingly expansive--covering<br />

36 square miles. Founded in 1850,<br />

the island became home to Danish immigrants<br />

who established the second<br />

oldest Icelandic settlement in the US,<br />

and one <strong>of</strong> the largest Scandinavian<br />

settlements in America. <strong>The</strong>re’s hiking,<br />

biking, birding, fishing, sailing, swimming,<br />

golfing and horseback riding. A<br />

visit to Washington Island can either be<br />

done in one’s own car or you can do a<br />

narrated tour. If you wish to use your<br />

own car, the Washington Island Ferry<br />

Line provides frequent daily service<br />

to and from the island. (www.wisferry.<br />

com) Or you can park your car, take the<br />

ferry, and then the Cherry Train Tour<br />

(Continued on page 18)<br />

<strong>The</strong> 5-Star rated Restaurant<br />

Saveur, in Bailey’s Harbor.


WISCONSIN<br />

<strong>The</strong> overlook at Sven’s Bluff is positively majestic.<br />

(Continued from page 17)<br />

<strong>of</strong> Washington Island once you arrive.<br />

This is a 90-minute tram tour, which<br />

makes several interesting stops. (www.<br />

cherrytraintours.com)<br />

While on Washington Island, be<br />

sure to stop at the Norwegian Stavkirke<br />

(Stave Church)—an example <strong>of</strong> Norse<br />

<strong>The</strong> Norwegian Stavkirke (Stave<br />

Church) on Washington Island<br />

architecture, which was constructed by<br />

island craftsmen to resemble a church<br />

in Bergin, Norway. You can feed the ostriches<br />

at the Double K-W Ostrich Farm.<br />

Schoolhouse Beach is unique in that the<br />

beach is entirely made up <strong>of</strong> smoothpolished<br />

limestone rocks—one <strong>of</strong> only<br />

five beaches in the world with such a<br />

feature. <strong>The</strong> Farm Museum depicts island<br />

life in the 1880’s. Don’t miss lunch<br />

at the Washington Hotel. <strong>The</strong> Hotel was<br />

built 104 years ago to house ship captains,<br />

and has been beautifully maintained.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> their restaurant’s food<br />

is organic and much <strong>of</strong> it grown on the<br />

island (www.thewashingtonhotel.com).<br />

Also, if you plan your DC vacation in<br />

August, Washington Island has a wonderful<br />

Music Festival every year. (www.<br />

washingtonislandmusicfesitval.com)<br />

Accommodations:<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are any number <strong>of</strong> great places<br />

to stay in DC. If you like the quicker<br />

pace in Sturgeon Bay, you’ll enjoy the<br />

Bridgeport Waterfront Resort. <strong>The</strong> Resort<br />

is within walking distance <strong>of</strong> major<br />

downtown attractions (www.bridgeportresort.net).<br />

In Ephraim, try the Village Green<br />

Lodge. It’s a former motel that has been<br />

made into a full Bed and Breakfast. <strong>The</strong><br />

hospitality is special and the rooms are<br />

immaculate. It’s also a very quiet place<br />

to stay, as it’s just <strong>of</strong>f the main drag.<br />

(www.villagegreenlodge.com)<br />

In Baileys Harbor, there is Gordon<br />

Lodge, a complete 130-acre resort<br />

located on its own private beach with<br />

rooms, cottages and villas. It has its own<br />

restaurant and bar. <strong>The</strong>re are also paddleboats<br />

and kayaks available. (www.<br />

gordonlodge.com)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Beachfront Inn at Baileys Harbor<br />

is an economy motel, but if you request<br />

a lakeside room, you can get a great<br />

value in terms <strong>of</strong> view. And the rooms,<br />

though spartan, are clean as a whistle.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y also have a nice tradition—roasting<br />

smores on an open beach fire after<br />

sunset. (www.beachfrontinn.net)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Coachlite Inn, at Sister Bay,<br />

is clean, comfortable and secluded, yet<br />

is within easy walking distance <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Country Walk Shops, restaurants, golf,<br />

churches, and amusement parks. (www.<br />

coachliteinn.com)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Country House is situated on<br />

a beautiful rolling bluff, overlooking<br />

fountains, gardens and the waters <strong>of</strong><br />

Green Bay. It is an adult retreat with<br />

the romance and charm <strong>of</strong> a country inn<br />

and the amenities <strong>of</strong> an elegant resort,<br />

Car ferries like this one provide regular service to and from Washington Island.<br />

‘Bet you didn’t know there was a<br />

<strong>Cape</strong> <strong>Cod</strong> Motel in <strong>Wisconsin</strong>?<br />

located in the woods, on the waters <strong>of</strong><br />

Sister Bay and <strong>of</strong>f the highway. It has 46<br />

rooms and suites that overlook the water<br />

on a 1,000 ft. shoreline. (www.countryhouse.com)<br />

Restaurants:<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the best restaurants in DC<br />

is located between Ephraim and Fish<br />

Creek--the English Inn. This is fine dining<br />

at its best. You’ll love the menu and<br />

the atmosphere. Start with a drink al<br />

(Continued on next page)


WISCONSIN<br />

Head in between Door County’s north and south shore touristy areas, and you pass beautiful farm land.<br />

(Continued from previous page)<br />

fresco in their garden area—very nice!<br />

(www.theenglishinn.com).<br />

Another one <strong>of</strong> DC’s best restaurants<br />

is a newcomer, Restaurant<br />

Saveur—rated 5 Stars, and located at<br />

Baileys Harbor.<br />

In Ephraim, don’t miss Wilson’s<br />

Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor—an<br />

old fashioned soda fountain with great<br />

ice cream. (www.wilsonicecream.com)<br />

<strong>The</strong> beautiful White Gull Inn Restaurant,<br />

in Fish Creek, dates from 1896,<br />

and has been perfectly maintained. It’s<br />

open for three meals a day, plus they<br />

1949. You’ll find interesting hand carvings<br />

on the inside. In addition, it’s the<br />

only restaurant in America with a grass<br />

ro<strong>of</strong> that real goats call their home as<br />

well as their diet. Inside, the food is<br />

wonderful. <strong>The</strong>y have a full menu, but<br />

if you order pancakes, try putting lingonberry<br />

preserves on them. You’ll also<br />

enjoy seeing the charming costumes the<br />

waitresses wear…just darling. Don’t<br />

miss this one. (www.aljohnsons.com)<br />

Door County makes a wonderful<br />

vacation spot. It’s scenic and quaint, but<br />

“in-season” feels more like the shoulder<br />

season here. <strong>The</strong> pace isn’t frantic at<br />

all. Plus, all the businesses are independently<br />

owned and have a lot <strong>of</strong> character.<br />

<strong>The</strong> service is friendly and eager to<br />

please. <strong>The</strong>re’s also a genuineness here<br />

that’s refreshing. Folks take time to give<br />

you directions, or to help out however<br />

they can. And that is why a midwestern<br />

vacation, especially to an area as appealing<br />

as Door County, is such an attractive<br />

option.<br />

Access by air to Door County is via<br />

Green Bay (GRB) or Appleton (ATW)<br />

airports, then by rental car.<br />

When you enter Door County stop<br />

by the Door County Visitor Bureau on<br />

Highway 42/57 as you enter Sturgeon<br />

Bay. For more information on visiting<br />

Door County, call (920) 743-4456, or go<br />

to www.doorcounty.com.<br />

And thanks for traveling.<br />

You’ll love the warm hospitality at the<br />

Village Green Lodge, in Ephraim.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Door County Maritime Museum overlooks Sturgeon Bay.<br />

do a traditional Fish Boil, which is very<br />

popular. Reservations for this need to be<br />

made well in advance. <strong>The</strong>y always sell<br />

out. (www.whitegullinn.com)<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the most memorable restaurant<br />

experiences you’ll have in DC is a<br />

trip to Al Johnson’s Swedish Pancake<br />

House, in Sister Bay. <strong>The</strong> building is a<br />

one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind. It was built in Norway,<br />

dismantled, and brought to America in<br />

Schoolhouse Beach on Washington<br />

Island is one <strong>of</strong> only five beaches<br />

in the world that have these kind <strong>of</strong><br />

smooth-polished limestone rocks.

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