The Legend of Franck Muller - Westime
The Legend of Franck Muller - Westime
The Legend of Franck Muller - Westime
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By Wei Koh<br />
illustration pk cheng<br />
PART 0NE: THE BIRTH OF THE<br />
EMOTIONAL COMPLICATION<br />
PART TW0: EMPIRICAL TIME VERSUS<br />
EXPERIENTIAL TIME<br />
PART THREE: THE REVOLUTIONARY<br />
MASTER BANKER
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Long Island Crazy<br />
Hours Color Dreams
CHAPTER TWO:<br />
THE ELUSIVE FRANCK MULLER<br />
<strong>The</strong> genius is touched by God.<br />
He is struck by lightning. He<br />
sees angels in the architecture,<br />
spinning in infinity. He reaches<br />
out and touches them. But like all geniuses,<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> is elusive. And for months I<br />
chased his trail. But <strong>Franck</strong> was in the<br />
wind. Every now and then, he’d come up<br />
for air and it would feed back to me. A<br />
fortnight ago, <strong>Franck</strong> was spotted playing<br />
chess on the beach with Gary Kasparov like<br />
in the Fellini film. <strong>The</strong>n <strong>Franck</strong> was<br />
reworking the Fibonacci sequence with Bill<br />
Gates to derive a mathematical formula for<br />
cleaning up the BP oil spill. Last week,<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> was seeking out the Four Noble<br />
Truths in an ashram in Kathmandu. But<br />
where was he now?<br />
Several people have asked me my<br />
motivation for chronicling the history <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>. And to them I’ve tried to<br />
explain that, in many ways, it is impossible<br />
to have an appreciation <strong>of</strong> the modern<br />
horological world without understanding<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>’s contribution to it. <strong>Franck</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong> literally made Swiss high<br />
watchmaking relevant to a whole new<br />
generation. He is our era’s first and<br />
most successful watchmaker; he is <strong>of</strong> such<br />
a level <strong>of</strong> technical inventiveness and<br />
commercial acumen that he can rightly be<br />
called the new millennium’s Abraham-<br />
Louis Breguet.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se were the thoughts careening<br />
through my brain as I ploughed steadfastly<br />
up a Thai mountain. With each pedal stroke<br />
<strong>of</strong> my bike, lactic acid shot through my<br />
bio-machinery. So, it was easy to confuse<br />
the phone ring with the auditory<br />
hallucination that signals the onset <strong>of</strong> heat<br />
exhaustion. Collapsing by the side <strong>of</strong> the<br />
road, I heard it again.<br />
“<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> would like to see you<br />
tomorrow,” came the voice.<br />
“I am in Thailand,” I wheezed.<br />
“No problem, <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> is also in<br />
Thailand.” Now I was convinced that I was<br />
lying on the cool sheets <strong>of</strong> a Thai hospital<br />
bed beneath the canopy <strong>of</strong> an oxygen tent<br />
as my brain played out fantasies on its<br />
own stage.<br />
“He’s just at his villa at the Amanpuri<br />
and would like you to come tomorrow.<br />
From your location, it is a short flight and<br />
we’ve already prepared your ticket.” <strong>The</strong><br />
omnipotence <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> machine<br />
was staggering. I touched my skin to check<br />
that a GPS tracking device hadn’t been<br />
injected beneath it. But even as I did, I<br />
knew how this would play out. When genius<br />
summons you, you go. I closed my eyes to<br />
enjoy the momentary respite <strong>of</strong> the shadecooled<br />
concrete beneath my head.<br />
BAPTISM<br />
“Welcome to the Amanpuri,” called out the<br />
cheery voice <strong>of</strong> the housekeeper. I<br />
staggered up the stairs with my bicycle,<br />
looking expectantly for a figure in cool<br />
white linen and a Panama hat conjuring up<br />
alchemic wonders <strong>of</strong> gear wheels and<br />
spring bars out <strong>of</strong> thin air.<br />
“Where is <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>?” I asked as I<br />
surveyed the two empty swimming pools<br />
and the equally empty house.<br />
“<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> is at the beach, sir,” came<br />
the reply.<br />
<strong>The</strong> buggy bounced through the<br />
sprawling estate <strong>of</strong> the private residences<br />
at Phuket’s famous Amanpuri, the<br />
temporary homes <strong>of</strong> the global elite fleeing<br />
the icy clutches <strong>of</strong> Europe for days <strong>of</strong><br />
bronzed skin and a state <strong>of</strong> mind best<br />
expressed in the pointillist warmth <strong>of</strong><br />
Henri Matisse’s Luxe, Calme<br />
et Volupté.<br />
Arriving on the beach, I was without a<br />
word whisked to a beach chair, provided<br />
for with a s<strong>of</strong>t gossamer bathrobe, a beach<br />
towel, an ice-cold exotic fruit daiquiri, and<br />
a light Bolivar Belicosos. I had everything.<br />
Everything, except <strong>Franck</strong>.<br />
“Do you know where I might find <strong>Franck</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong>?” I asked the small nut-brown<br />
man, turning my chair to face the afternoon<br />
sun like a human sundial.<br />
“<strong>The</strong>re’s <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>!” he exclaimed,<br />
waving toward the clear blue sea and the<br />
vast gold horizon. For a moment, I thought<br />
I’d stumbled upon a disguised Bodhisattva,<br />
replying to what he thought was a<br />
Zen parable.<br />
“Yes,” I replied. “I understand, <strong>Franck</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong> is everywhere and all things.<br />
He is…”<br />
“No,” the diminutive man cut me <strong>of</strong>f, “he<br />
is swimming in the ocean. <strong>The</strong>re…” He<br />
gestured far <strong>of</strong>f the coast to a man floating<br />
serenely on his back, his face covered by a<br />
massive white Panama hat. “<strong>The</strong>re’s<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>.”<br />
I called his name. I waved. I jumped. To<br />
no avail. <strong>Franck</strong> was in the wind. He was<br />
floating in the vast blue infinity as he saw<br />
angels in the architecture, spinning in<br />
infinity, reaching out to touch them.<br />
I sealed my digital voice recorder in<br />
a Ziploc, placed it under my pink<br />
commemorative Giro d’Italia hat, and<br />
began the long, slow swim toward my
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Long Island<br />
Totally Crazy Color Dreams<br />
human objective. With each stroke toward<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>, I grew in exhaustion, while<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> remained serene, bobbing on the<br />
insouciant current.<br />
<strong>The</strong>n, as I neared him, as if through some<br />
form <strong>of</strong> telekinesis, he sensed my approach<br />
and turned to meet me, his face beaming<br />
with health, his smile dazzlingly white, his<br />
voice booming over the waves.<br />
“Welcome, my friend!” He bellowed in<br />
his distinctive baritone. That same voice<br />
struck me with its native intelligence each<br />
time I interviewed him. Immediately, he<br />
launched into a conversation about watches:<br />
what he felt they represented to human<br />
culture, why we are eternally fascinated by<br />
these tiny machines with heartbeats.<br />
I quickly extracted my voice recorder<br />
while trying to tread water with one hand.<br />
I don’t know if you’ve ever tried this, but<br />
what happens is, you go in a circle.<br />
<strong>The</strong> result was my slow, constant pirouette<br />
beside him like some mentally deficient<br />
synchronized swimmer. <strong>Franck</strong> was<br />
kindly oblivious to my unconventional<br />
aquatic behavior.<br />
And in the hour we spent moving<br />
inexorably toward shore, I was forever<br />
changed by what he told me. I had come to<br />
discuss one thing. Before <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>,<br />
the term “complication” was used only<br />
to describe the way a watch could<br />
communicate some empirical measure<br />
<strong>of</strong> time. Although <strong>Franck</strong> had<br />
reintroduced the fascination with traditional<br />
complications, he had also given birth to an<br />
all-new type <strong>of</strong> complication that today<br />
represents one <strong>of</strong> the most significant<br />
revolutions in contemporary horology.<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> used his horological skills<br />
to create the world’s first emotional<br />
complication with a watch whose sole<br />
purpose was not to provide an ever<br />
more arcane measurement <strong>of</strong> time,<br />
but to transform time itself into an<br />
emotional language.<br />
With this watch, he disrupted our<br />
perception <strong>of</strong> time, uprooted it, eliminated<br />
its plodding finality, and reinvented time as<br />
a revelatory experiential medium.<br />
He did all this with an extraordinary<br />
timepiece called Crazy Hours, whose legacy<br />
still resonates as strongly today as when it<br />
was first born. This is its story. And as it<br />
turned out, in the sea experiencing a<br />
baptism <strong>of</strong> sorts, was the perfect place for<br />
me to hear it.
PART ONE<br />
CRAZY HOURS<br />
THE BIRTH OF THE<br />
EMOTIONAL COMPLICATION<br />
At first glance, the Crazy Hours<br />
watch — with its dial an<br />
incandescent blaze <strong>of</strong> seemingly<br />
random and scattered numbers, scattered<br />
with the same spontaneity as Jackson<br />
Pollack’s brushstrokes — seems miles<br />
apart from the ordered precision <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong>’s tourbillon watches. Yet there is a<br />
salient link between these timepieces in<br />
that their primary objective is to provoke<br />
human emotion.<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> explains, “In many ways,<br />
the Crazy Hours was an extension <strong>of</strong> a<br />
simple philosophy that was born when I<br />
created my first tourbillon wristwatch. In<br />
1801, when the tourbillon was first made, it<br />
was created as a precision device. It was<br />
made to fight gravity when pocket watches<br />
are in the vertical position. But today, it has<br />
no meaning as a precision device as<br />
wristwatches adopt innumerable positions<br />
throughout the day. <strong>The</strong>ir raison d’être has<br />
become that they are simply beautiful to<br />
look at, a wonder <strong>of</strong> micro-mechanics and<br />
watchmaking art.”<br />
While <strong>Muller</strong> was instrumental in the<br />
revival <strong>of</strong> the tourbillon, he is quick to<br />
underscore the rationale for a tourbillon in<br />
this wristwatch format. He states, “It is<br />
essentially an emotional device. This is why<br />
I decided to put it on the front <strong>of</strong> the watch.<br />
Later, others realized the emotional value<br />
<strong>of</strong> the tourbillon and followed me.”<br />
When asked if, in an age filled with<br />
micro-electronic instruments, the primary<br />
purpose for all horological complications is<br />
their emotional value, <strong>Muller</strong> is quick to<br />
agree. He states, “Similarly, a minute<br />
repeater was born to serve a pragmatic<br />
function. In the days before electricity, it<br />
was an ordeal to get out <strong>of</strong> bed, light a<br />
candle and read what time it was, so the<br />
minute repeater, a watch that literally<br />
played time, was created. Today, light is<br />
available at the flick <strong>of</strong> a switch. Time is<br />
displayed on electronic clocks that are<br />
illuminated at night. So today, a minute<br />
repeater has no real pragmatic function. It<br />
is simply a beautiful device, and emotional<br />
art form. A transcendent instrument that<br />
changes time into music!”<br />
While <strong>Muller</strong> had by 2003 become the<br />
uncontested “Master <strong>of</strong> Complications”,<br />
ushering in 36 world premieres and patents<br />
in a space <strong>of</strong> only 20 years, he began to<br />
think <strong>of</strong> another purpose for his<br />
extraordinary watchmaking skills. He<br />
explains, “Tourbillon, perpetual calendar<br />
and minute repeater — these types <strong>of</strong><br />
watches are called complications, because<br />
they are complicated to make and because<br />
they add levels <strong>of</strong> complication to<br />
timepieces. But I began to think <strong>of</strong> ideas to<br />
create complications that corresponded to<br />
the needs <strong>of</strong> modern society.”<br />
One watch that emerged from <strong>Muller</strong>’s<br />
desire to express the needs <strong>of</strong> the<br />
contemporary world in his watches was the<br />
Master Banker — a response to the realities<br />
<strong>of</strong> travel and business conducted over<br />
multiple time zones. But as he thought<br />
deeper about it, he began to visualize an<br />
all-new type <strong>of</strong> complication, one whose<br />
primacy <strong>of</strong> purpose had less to do<br />
with calculating minutiae and more<br />
with transforming time into an<br />
emotional language.<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> explains his rationale, “One thing<br />
which I was thinking about was that all the<br />
information shown on traditional<br />
complications could be read <strong>of</strong>f your<br />
computer. As such, I wanted to create a<br />
type <strong>of</strong> watch that <strong>of</strong>fered an experience<br />
you could not have with an electronic<br />
device. This watch must evoke emotion, it<br />
must remind you that watches were living<br />
objects and not soulless electronics. In<br />
order to do this, I had to examine the<br />
fundamental concepts behind civil time.”<br />
But <strong>Muller</strong>’s moment <strong>of</strong> revelation for his<br />
new watch would only come accompanied<br />
by an unconventional baptism in water.<br />
A WATCH WITH NO RULES<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> laughs as he recalls the unexpected<br />
birth <strong>of</strong> the Crazy Hours. It all started<br />
because <strong>of</strong> his aversion to the cold. He<br />
states, “I don’t like the cold. And so, every<br />
New Year, I seek out warm places to<br />
celebrate with my family. My second wife<br />
and I had a baby born on 21 December<br />
2001. When he was one year old, we<br />
decided to bring him on a vacation for the<br />
New Year. I discussed destinations with my<br />
friend Jean Todt because when traveling<br />
with a one-year-old, you are somewhat<br />
limited in your options. Time passed quickly<br />
and I had to quickly choose a place to go.<br />
<strong>The</strong> thing is, I never go any place alone. I<br />
love family and so when I travel, I bring my<br />
sister, her husband, her children, my
HOW THE FRANCK MULLER<br />
CRAZY HOURS WORKS<br />
While traditional timepieces indicate time in a clockwise manner over the course <strong>of</strong> a day, the <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Crazy Hours seems to<br />
depict time in random manner. <strong>The</strong> hour hands leap around the dial from '1' to '12' throughout the day, jumping five places instead <strong>of</strong> one,<br />
while the minute hand functions normally, moving clockwise in a regular manner as the hour passes.<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong><br />
Long Island Crazy<br />
Hours Color Dreams
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong><br />
Cintrée Curvex Crazy<br />
Hours Tourbillon<br />
with diamonds<br />
mother, my wife and my new baby. You see,<br />
family is primordial. It is the most important<br />
thing for me!”<br />
Desperate for a warm climate while<br />
ushering in a new annum, <strong>Muller</strong> persisted<br />
in seeking his friends’ advice.<br />
He recalls, “Jean Todt told me to go to a<br />
particular resort named the Royal Palm in<br />
Mauritius. He said, ‘It is perfect, you can<br />
go directly from Geneva to Mauritius<br />
without changing planes so it will be no<br />
problem for your baby.’<br />
“At this point, it was November and so I<br />
telephoned the resort, but they told me they<br />
were completely full and they refused to<br />
accommodate me. I told this to Jean Todt<br />
who immediately called the director. <strong>The</strong><br />
director <strong>of</strong> the Royal Palm then called me<br />
and told me, ‘Look, Mr <strong>Muller</strong>, every year at<br />
the Royal Palm, we have the same clientele.<br />
I can do nothing because every single room<br />
is booked.’”<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> replied, “Mr Director, look at the<br />
wrists <strong>of</strong> your clients. I am sure they are all<br />
wearing <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> watches, so I hope<br />
you can allow me to join my clients and<br />
friends. He came back saying, ‘OK, let me<br />
see what I can do, and if I can make it work,<br />
I will call Jean Todt.’”<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> chuckles, remembering, “At this<br />
point, it was becoming something <strong>of</strong> a<br />
challenge to me to go to this resort, and the<br />
thing about me is, I cannot back down from<br />
a challenge. Watchmaking is a series <strong>of</strong><br />
challenges that you compel yourself to<br />
overcome. And so I bring this way <strong>of</strong><br />
thinking to my life as well. <strong>The</strong> other thing<br />
was that this resort was left over from the<br />
French colonial era in Mauritius. It was run<br />
by the French for the French. And while I<br />
love the French people, sometimes, the<br />
French have a very narrow way <strong>of</strong> thinking.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y concern themselves only with the<br />
French and simply ignore the rest <strong>of</strong> the<br />
world. <strong>The</strong> more I thought about it, the<br />
more determined I became to bring my<br />
family to the Royal Palm!”<br />
After weeks <strong>of</strong> persistent calling, <strong>Muller</strong><br />
succeeded. He states, “Finally, the director<br />
called me back and wanted to know what<br />
rooms I needed. I requested three mega<br />
suites, one for my mother, one for my sister<br />
and her family and one for my wife and<br />
baby. He hemmed and hawed, but eventually<br />
gave me the rooms.”<br />
With that, <strong>Muller</strong> assembled his entire<br />
family and they set <strong>of</strong>f with every belief that<br />
they would embark on what would be a<br />
delightful and memorable holiday.<br />
Only half <strong>of</strong> this equation would prove<br />
to be true.<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> recalls, “We arrived tired but<br />
grateful to be in such a beautiful climate<br />
in Mauritius and at such a lovely hotel<br />
situated in Grand Baie. My family and I were<br />
hungry, so we went to the dining room.
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Long<br />
Island Crazy Hours<br />
Tourbillon<br />
Immediately, I recognized many friends.<br />
<strong>The</strong> first person I saw was Marcus Margulies,<br />
who was my distributor in London and<br />
someone I love. He presented me to many <strong>of</strong><br />
his friends and I immediately felt at home<br />
amid so much warmth and kindness.”<br />
Unfortunately, <strong>Muller</strong>’s reverie would<br />
not last long. He exclaims, “Suddenly, I was<br />
pulled out <strong>of</strong> this state <strong>of</strong> comfort by the<br />
hotel director. He explained that the Royal<br />
Palm was an icon and that its restaurant was<br />
the most prestigious dining establishment<br />
and had strict rules. One <strong>of</strong> these rules is<br />
that at dinner, black tie is strictly required<br />
for the men. I didn’t know what to do. I had<br />
not packed a tuxedo as this was a beach<br />
vacation. I went upstairs to my room and I<br />
found a black jacket. But I didn’t have a<br />
black bow-tie.”<br />
Ever the creative genius, <strong>Muller</strong> soon<br />
hatched an audacious plan that hinged<br />
around his capacity to pass <strong>of</strong>f total<br />
absurdity with total conviction.<br />
He says, “As it happened, I looked around<br />
and saw that there was a white bathrobe<br />
and hanging from it was a cloth belt. So I<br />
quickly looped this around my neck, tied it<br />
into a bow and went back downstairs. <strong>The</strong><br />
“Here we were in a tropical paradise<br />
and yet, we were clinging to as many<br />
rules as we could because somehow<br />
it made us feel better, more superior<br />
to others”<br />
director saw me and looked shocked. He<br />
immediately exclaimed, ‘Mr <strong>Muller</strong>, what<br />
kind <strong>of</strong> bow-tie is that?’<br />
“I replied to him, ‘Pardon me, but do you<br />
know Gianni Versace?’ He said, ‘Well, I do<br />
not know Monsieur Versace personally, but<br />
<strong>of</strong> course I know OF him.’<br />
“I stated emphatically, ‘Well, Gianni<br />
Versace is one <strong>of</strong> my best friends and this is<br />
his bow-tie from next year’s collection,<br />
which has not even been shown to the public<br />
yet! In three months’ time, it will be shown<br />
on the runways <strong>of</strong> Milan and Paris. It will be<br />
the biggest trend <strong>of</strong> the year, but it is a secret<br />
so you must not tell anyone.’<br />
“He replied, ‘Of course, Monsieur<br />
<strong>Muller</strong>,’ winking conspiratorially at me. <strong>The</strong><br />
director looked immediately appeased and<br />
brought us to our table. Inside, I was<br />
thinking that my friend Gianni would have<br />
particularly appreciated this joke, as he<br />
actually wrote an autobiography called Men<br />
Without Ties. You see, he never wore a tie<br />
and didn’t like them at all. I thought if he<br />
were here with me, he would be laughing. I<br />
was thinking how surreal this environment<br />
was. Here we were in a tropical paradise<br />
and yet, we were clinging to as many rules as<br />
we could because somehow it made us feel<br />
better, more superior to others.”<br />
But <strong>Muller</strong> pushed aside any negative<br />
thoughts in order to spend time with his<br />
family. Sadly, these thoughts would soon<br />
come flooding back.<br />
He remembers, “When we were seated, I<br />
asked for some water and the director<br />
clicked his tongue disapprovingly. He<br />
explained, ‘Monsieur <strong>Muller</strong>, here at the<br />
Royal Palm, we do not serve water, we serve<br />
only Perrier.’<br />
“At this point, I was becoming a bit<br />
irritated. So I pointed to the wine menu and
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex<br />
Crazy Hours
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Long Island Crazy Hours<br />
Color Dreams with black diamonds<br />
OPPOSITE <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée<br />
Curvex Totally Crazy Color Dreams<br />
said, ‘Mr Director, I am sorry I do not<br />
drink Perrier, so instead I will order wine.’<br />
As it happens, I love good wine. So without<br />
consulting the menu, I said, ‘Instead <strong>of</strong><br />
Perrier, we will all drink Château Pétrus,<br />
so please bring a bottle for each person at<br />
the table, one for my mother, one for my<br />
sister, one for her husband, etc.’<br />
“<strong>The</strong> director was shocked but he<br />
quickly complied. This continued as a<br />
routine each night. I would put on my<br />
bathrobe belt as a bow-tie, go to the<br />
dining room and order Pétrus and never<br />
Perrier.” <strong>Muller</strong> and his family began to<br />
feel the warmth <strong>of</strong> the Indian Ocean sun<br />
on their skin insinuating itself into their<br />
souls and for a while, they were happy.<br />
Says <strong>Muller</strong>, “Finally, it was the day<br />
before New Year’s, and very early in<br />
the morning, I heard an insistent<br />
knock on the door. It was the director.<br />
Without saying good morning, he<br />
immediately said, ‘Monsieur <strong>Muller</strong>, we<br />
have a problem.’<br />
“I was nervous, I thought that there had<br />
been some natural disaster or some kind<br />
<strong>of</strong> storm coming and we needed to<br />
evacuate the hotel. Instead, he said,<br />
‘Tonight, it is New Year’s Eve and I want<br />
to know what you are going to drink<br />
this evening.’<br />
“I was shocked that he had disturbed<br />
me first thing in the morning, and so I<br />
replied, ‘But that’s not your problem. Why<br />
are you disturbing me with this question?<br />
Don’t you think it depends on what I<br />
eat tonight?’<br />
“He persisted, so finally I said, ‘OK, I<br />
will have the Pétrus this evening.’<br />
“He replied curtly, ‘Aha! It is my<br />
problem because you have drank all <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Pétrus in our cellar and there is not a<br />
single bottle left for anyone else. I need to<br />
know what you want to drink this evening,<br />
so I can see if we can accommodate you.’<br />
He seemed irritated, perhaps someone<br />
had told him that my bow-tie was not<br />
really from Gianni Versace’s collection for<br />
the next season.”<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> by this point was truly beginning<br />
to chafe at the rules, the vestigial influence<br />
<strong>of</strong> Mauritius’ French colonial past, which<br />
seemed determined to darken his mood.<br />
It would be that evening that things finally<br />
came to a head.<br />
He states, “That evening, I arrived<br />
again with my black jacket and my<br />
bathrobe-belt tie. It was a special evening,<br />
so all the women were requested to wear<br />
white. My wife, mother and sister were all<br />
dressed in white. We were seated around<br />
the pool and I looked around and saw all<br />
these beautiful French women dressed in<br />
gorgeous white dresses completely<br />
resplendent in jewels, glistening in their<br />
diamonds. Immediately, the director<br />
came to me and to appease him, I said,<br />
‘OK, this evening we will drink Cheval<br />
Blanc.’ Because it was New Year’s Eve, I<br />
had suggested to Marcus and to some <strong>of</strong><br />
the people we had become friendly with<br />
that we combine our tables and have one
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex<br />
Crazy Hours with diamonds<br />
big party together.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> director approached and said,<br />
‘This evening is New Year’s Eve. But here<br />
at the Royal Palm, we celebrate in a<br />
civilized manner. We cannot put together<br />
these tables. Everyone must have his<br />
correct place at individual tables. This is<br />
our protocol.’<br />
“I said, ‘Wait a moment. All <strong>of</strong> us at<br />
this big table are friends. When we are on<br />
the beach, we all sit together and laugh<br />
and enjoy each other’s company. Why is<br />
it that for New Year’s Eve, we cannot also<br />
be together in this beautiful location?<br />
Why must you impose these meaningless<br />
rules on us?’<br />
“<strong>The</strong> director replied, ‘Because that<br />
is the way things are done here and it is<br />
my decision.’<br />
“I turned to Marcus Margulies and<br />
said, ‘OK, just before midnight, come to<br />
my table with two Cohiba cigars.<br />
Light one and keep the other one for me.<br />
I will give you a spectacular New<br />
Year’s surprise.’<br />
“So, at five minutes to midnight, Marcus<br />
came over with the cigars. Literally, at the<br />
stroke <strong>of</strong> midnight, I got up from the table.<br />
And in front <strong>of</strong> everyone, I took <strong>of</strong>f my<br />
black jacket, I took <strong>of</strong>f my bathrobe-belt<br />
bow-tie. As I did this, I thought about<br />
the loopholes and hurdles the director<br />
had scattered in my path for no<br />
reason at all. <strong>The</strong>n I continued until<br />
I was completely naked.<br />
“By this time, I was genuinely angry.<br />
I thought about how I hate when human<br />
beings create rules just to rob others <strong>of</strong><br />
pleasure. <strong>The</strong>n I walked over to the pool<br />
and jumped in. And as I emerged in the<br />
beautiful night air, and as I regarded<br />
the beautiful women in white around me,<br />
as I looked up at the stars overhead,<br />
the sounds <strong>of</strong> the director protesting<br />
faded away.<br />
“I thought to myself, I hate rules. But,<br />
in many ways, time itself is a rule. It is<br />
imposed on man. I want to create a watch<br />
that has no rules, but that always finds the<br />
right time regardless. And I will call this<br />
watch ‘Crazy Hours’.”
PART TWO<br />
CRAZY HOURS<br />
EMPIRICAL TIME VERSUS<br />
EXPERIENTiAL TIME<br />
To simply call the Crazy Hours a<br />
watch is to do it a disservice. It<br />
is less <strong>of</strong> a timepiece in the<br />
conventional sense and more <strong>of</strong><br />
a radical reinvention <strong>of</strong> the wristwatch.<br />
What was once a precision device has now<br />
become no less than an art form, a vehicle<br />
for emotional expression and a statement<br />
<strong>of</strong> personal philosophy so strong that its<br />
influence resonates even to this day, seven<br />
years after its creation.<br />
In the swimming pool, at the time it was first<br />
conceptualized, <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> looked up into<br />
the night sky and swore to eschew all that had<br />
come before. He vowed to invent a timepiece<br />
that would shake the very foundations <strong>of</strong><br />
horology by reinventing timekeeping —<br />
transforming it from a civil code into a pure<br />
emotional language. But, to do so, he would<br />
have to first delve into the very roots <strong>of</strong> time as<br />
we know it.<br />
<strong>Muller</strong> explains, “Time was an invention<br />
<strong>of</strong> man to organize society so that social<br />
discourse and business could take place.<br />
Our lives became compartmentalized and<br />
divided so society could function. It is for<br />
no small reason that Geneva is the<br />
epicenter <strong>of</strong> time. Two hundred years ago,<br />
Geneva was one <strong>of</strong> the most important<br />
commercial cities in the world. <strong>The</strong><br />
Germans, the Spanish, the French and the<br />
whole world came to Geneva to exchange<br />
merchandise. As such, civil time as we<br />
know it was created in Geneva. <strong>The</strong> traders<br />
passed through Geneva and they arranged<br />
for meetings. But the problem was that<br />
setting up meetings was similar to trying<br />
to establish a meeting in the Middle East.<br />
When you arrange a meeting with someone<br />
in the Middle East, the concept <strong>of</strong> time is<br />
very loose. When you say, ‘Let’s meet on<br />
Tuesday,’ it can mean Tuesday this week<br />
or Tuesday next week, or the week after or<br />
in a month.<br />
“Similarly, the difficulty in Geneva was<br />
reconciling these different concepts <strong>of</strong><br />
time. So Geneva was the first city in the<br />
world where a law was imposed that<br />
people must give specific times and dates<br />
for meetings. <strong>The</strong> history <strong>of</strong> precise time<br />
was therefore born in Geneva, where a<br />
law was passed that said, ‘If someone<br />
makes a commercial meeting for a specific<br />
date and time, they are obligated to honor<br />
it!’ As you imagine, watches became<br />
very important for anyone setting foot<br />
in Geneva.”<br />
As a result, the Swiss became obsessed<br />
with precision and chased the elusive goal<br />
to make watches more and more accurate.<br />
This was entirely natural, because<br />
embedded in Swiss culture was an<br />
underlying pragmatic need for accuracy.<br />
Any frequent traveler who has visited<br />
Geneva in the last 200 years can attest to<br />
this. Says <strong>Muller</strong>, “This culture still exists<br />
today. This is the reason a train in Geneva<br />
that states it will leave at 12:01 will leave<br />
precisely on time, not one minute before<br />
or after. Switzerland has become the nation<br />
<strong>of</strong> precision.”<br />
But <strong>Muller</strong>’s feeling was that civil time,<br />
the 24-hour day, binds man into a certain<br />
routine that he cannot escape from. He<br />
explains, “We are all formatted from the<br />
time we are born to follow a routine, to<br />
follow certain rules. At a certain time we<br />
wake, at a certain time we eat breakfast, at a<br />
certain time we take our bath, at a certain<br />
time we work, at a certain time we go home,<br />
we eat dinner, we go to bed.”<br />
Ironically, it took a son <strong>of</strong> a Genevan to<br />
revolutionize the concept <strong>of</strong> time and to slip<br />
from its imperial clutches. Says <strong>Muller</strong>,<br />
“After a certain time, this becomes so much<br />
a routine that human beings are robbed <strong>of</strong><br />
their spontaneous nature, <strong>of</strong> their creativity.<br />
You are told you should only make love to<br />
your wife in the evening, but according to<br />
what rule? Shouldn’t something like this be<br />
regulated not by the rules <strong>of</strong> society but the<br />
rules <strong>of</strong> the heart? We are so programmed<br />
in our heads that our lives become a<br />
structure that we feel we cannot escape. We<br />
become so encoded that we are moving<br />
mindlessly from one moment to the next,<br />
never reveling in the present to truly enjoy<br />
the experience.”<br />
Indeed, the only time in our lives when<br />
human beings bestow unto themselves the<br />
freedom to enjoy life to its fullest, to exist<br />
and revel in its full sensual glory, is during<br />
the period that has become known in<br />
colloquial parlance as the “holiday”.<br />
Interestingly, it is uniquely during this<br />
period, rooted in ancient pagan ritual<br />
periods <strong>of</strong> thanksgiving and celebration,<br />
that the human heart is given its full measure<br />
<strong>of</strong> freedom. For <strong>Muller</strong>, the mental attitude<br />
evinced during the holiday is something<br />
that is at the very core <strong>of</strong> the Crazy Hours.
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex<br />
Crazy Hours Tourbillon
“To me, in modern<br />
culture, we are<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten too much<br />
rooted in the<br />
past or obsessed<br />
by the future”<br />
He states, “Why call it Crazy Hours?<br />
Because the Crazy Hours watch had to be a<br />
statement that you can do what you want,<br />
whenever you want. It had to be a watch<br />
that told people that life is precious and that<br />
you must enjoy each fleeting moment. It<br />
was a declaration that you should exist in<br />
the present and not constantly be thinking<br />
about the past or the future. It had to be a<br />
rupture from the structure <strong>of</strong> empirical<br />
time, an escape from the mindless regularity<br />
that we as human beings have become<br />
enslaved to. This idea came to me at that<br />
moment in the swimming pool in Mauritius,<br />
where I had come with my family to be on<br />
vacation, where we thought we could do<br />
what we wanted. But instead, we were met<br />
only with rules and more rules. <strong>The</strong> Crazy<br />
Hours is an escape from rules.”<br />
And while at first glance, it might be<br />
easy to dismiss this philosophy as<br />
promiscuously sensualist, the very<br />
concept <strong>of</strong> the Crazy Hours has strong<br />
spiritual undertones. <strong>Muller</strong> states, “I’ve<br />
always liked the Buddhist parable <strong>of</strong> the<br />
monk who falls down a cliff. Beneath him,<br />
he sees a starving tiger waiting to eat him.<br />
Above him, he sees a snake slithering down<br />
to bite him, then suddenly, just in front <strong>of</strong><br />
him, he sees a perfect strawberry. Slowly<br />
and with great deliberation, he reaches out<br />
and plucks this strawberry and tastes how<br />
delicious it is. To me, in modern culture, we<br />
are <strong>of</strong>ten too much rooted in the past or<br />
obsessed by the future. Unfortunately, the<br />
traditional format for a watch only<br />
encourages this. On the dial, you see all the<br />
time in front <strong>of</strong> you and all the time behind<br />
you. And so, you become obsessed with the<br />
past and the future, and never appreciate<br />
the moment you are in. For me, it was very<br />
important that the Crazy Hours be a watch<br />
in which the past and the future are not<br />
visible. As such, you have no choice but to<br />
be in the here and now, and to appreciate<br />
the present — this is something people have<br />
forgotten how to do!”<br />
THE WORLD’S FIRST<br />
EMOTIONAL COMPLICATION<br />
Imagine a watch where the dial adheres to<br />
no laws <strong>of</strong> order <strong>of</strong> either God or man. <strong>The</strong><br />
cold, rational intellectualism <strong>of</strong> the 12-hour<br />
dial is dispensed with, and in its place, a<br />
whirl <strong>of</strong> randomly strewed digits each<br />
claiming their precious real estate with a<br />
free-wheeling assertion <strong>of</strong> self. At the 12<br />
o’clock position, the number eight — the<br />
Chinese symbol for luck — stakes its claim<br />
with heady optimism. <strong>The</strong> Crazy Hours<br />
dial, as the name implies, bears no logic, it<br />
defies rationality; it could, if expanded onto<br />
canvas, be found in the Pop repertoire <strong>of</strong>
“To combine the Crazy Hours indication with<br />
the tourbillon, to me, is to double the visual<br />
pleasure <strong>of</strong> the timepiece”<br />
Robert Rauschenberg or Jasper Johns, a<br />
vivid joyous defiance <strong>of</strong> the cold,<br />
emotionless oppression <strong>of</strong> civil time.<br />
Says <strong>Muller</strong>, “In the Crazy Hours, there<br />
appears to be no sense as to what hours<br />
come next, and so, you are compelled to<br />
focus on the moment you are in. In this<br />
way, this watch was the world’s first<br />
emotional complication in that it uses a<br />
mechanical complication to delight and<br />
engage its owners.”<br />
But when asked what use a watch that<br />
cannot tell time has, <strong>Muller</strong> replies, “Ah,<br />
but you see, human beings are logical<br />
and they will always find their way.<br />
Similarly, with the Crazy Hours, the hour<br />
hand on the watch will always jump to<br />
the right time. With the Crazy Hours, I<br />
have found a way to deconstruct and<br />
restructure time.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> Crazy Hours complication finds its<br />
roots in a watch <strong>Muller</strong> created in 1986, the<br />
world’s first free-oscillation tourbillon<br />
wristwatch. What was unique about this<br />
timepiece was that it featured not just a<br />
precision device intended to combat<br />
the erosive force <strong>of</strong> gravity, but also a<br />
jump-hour indication. <strong>The</strong>re are two types<br />
<strong>of</strong> jump-hour watches: watches that<br />
feature an aperture in which the hour is<br />
displayed, and watches with traditional<br />
hands that, instead <strong>of</strong> a sweeping,<br />
leap from one hour index to the next,<br />
jumping precisely at the stroke <strong>of</strong> each new<br />
hour. <strong>The</strong> Crazy Hours is similarly a<br />
jump-hour watch using a traditional hour<br />
hand. <strong>The</strong> distinction is that instead <strong>of</strong><br />
leaping one index at the stroke <strong>of</strong> each<br />
hour, it leaps forward five places. As such,<br />
an examination <strong>of</strong> the seeming disarray on<br />
the Crazy Hours dial sheds light on the fact<br />
that the numeric jumble is actually spaced<br />
such that each subsequent number is not<br />
one but five spaces in progression around<br />
the dial.<br />
Upon the release <strong>of</strong> the Crazy Hours in<br />
2003, the watch-collecting world was<br />
universally stunned. <strong>The</strong> advent <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Crazy Hours, a watch whose sole purpose<br />
was the abstraction, deconstruction and<br />
reconfiguration <strong>of</strong> time with the intent to<br />
shock and delight otherwise emotionally<br />
disengaged owners, has been associated<br />
with the first Impressionist paintings that<br />
divorced themselves from replications <strong>of</strong><br />
reality, focusing instead on the sublimation<br />
and expression <strong>of</strong> emotion as their primary<br />
objective. <strong>The</strong> Crazy Hours is the first work<br />
<strong>of</strong> watchmaking Impressionism.<br />
Today, many brands have laid claim to the<br />
ground <strong>of</strong> emotional complications. But<br />
each <strong>of</strong> these brands owes its very existence<br />
to <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> and the revelation he<br />
experienced beneath the stars <strong>of</strong> Mauritius,<br />
the determination it created in him to<br />
fabricate a timepiece that would break our<br />
enslavement to time and unearth a purer<br />
form <strong>of</strong> existence, sensuality and<br />
appreciation for life.<br />
TOTALLY CRAZY<br />
Adding the practical advantage <strong>of</strong> a date<br />
indicator, the Totally Crazy watch adds<br />
another startling pinwheel <strong>of</strong> fiery dial-side<br />
animation with a date indicator that echoes<br />
the seemingly random order <strong>of</strong> the legendary<br />
Crazy Hours dial. This time, the secret lies<br />
in the date hand leaping seven indices to<br />
always find the next number in the<br />
progression through the month. Nothing<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers more entertainment than the<br />
sudden and simultaneous jump <strong>of</strong> the<br />
hour and date hand precisely at the stroke<br />
<strong>of</strong> midnight.<br />
CRAZY HOURS TOURBILLON<br />
<strong>The</strong> Crazy Hours Tourbillon combines two<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>’s iconic achievements,<br />
the dial-side tourbillon and the Crazy<br />
Hours complication. As with many <strong>of</strong> his<br />
timepieces, the Crazy Hours Tourbillon<br />
was inspired by a friend; in this instance,<br />
Tay Liam Wee, the group executive<br />
chairman <strong>of</strong> Sincere Watch and the head <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>’s distribution in Asia.<br />
Says <strong>Muller</strong>, “Liam Wee is very innovative<br />
and it was his idea to create a watch with the<br />
ultimate dial-side animation. To combine<br />
the Crazy Hours indication with the<br />
tourbillon, to me, is to double the visual<br />
pleasure <strong>of</strong> the timepiece. On the one hand,<br />
you have the total folly, the seeming wildness<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Crazy Hours indicator, and on the<br />
other hand, you have the world’s most<br />
famous precision device.” But the two<br />
complications work together beautifully,<br />
both combining their technicity and<br />
bravado to create what to many connoisseurs<br />
is THE ultimate <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> timepiece.<br />
Adding a beautiful touch <strong>of</strong> whimsy, the “8”<br />
index has been divided into two in a King<br />
Solomon-like act <strong>of</strong> horological prowess,<br />
with half <strong>of</strong> the index placed on the dial and<br />
the other half integrated into the<br />
flying tourbillon’s cage. This “8” serves<br />
both as an index and a seconds<br />
indicator, completing a full rotation once<br />
every minute.<br />
Regardless <strong>of</strong> which Crazy Hours<br />
complication you choose, every watch from<br />
this series is intrinsically linked to <strong>Franck</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong>’s ultimate act <strong>of</strong> horological<br />
rebellion. To gaze at the dial <strong>of</strong> any <strong>of</strong> these<br />
timepieces, be it the Crazy Hours, Totally<br />
Crazy, or Crazy Hours Tourbillon, is to be<br />
reminded <strong>of</strong> the fact that time itself is the<br />
most precious commodity in life.
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée<br />
Curvex Totally Crazy
PART THREE<br />
THE REVOLUTIONARY<br />
MASTER BANKER<br />
As his brand continued to<br />
grow, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>Franck</strong>’s greatest<br />
challenges was to use his<br />
watchmaking ability to suit the<br />
needs <strong>of</strong> the contemporary consumer. <strong>The</strong><br />
greatest reality for the modern businessman<br />
relates to constant travel. <strong>The</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> us<br />
spend our days on a perennial transglobal<br />
trek from one head <strong>of</strong>fice to the next.<br />
<strong>The</strong> miasmic haze <strong>of</strong> being lost amid<br />
differing time zones can at times become<br />
overwhelming, and in this context, it is the<br />
watch that becomes a veritable Prometheus,<br />
bringing light to darkness, and order to<br />
chaos. It was precisely with the objective<br />
<strong>of</strong> illuminating the world <strong>of</strong> the constant<br />
traveler that <strong>Franck</strong> created one <strong>of</strong> his most<br />
legendary timepieces, the Master Banker.<br />
Amazingly, this watch was actually<br />
created in tandem with an actual banker<br />
friend. <strong>Franck</strong> recalls, “One <strong>of</strong> my close<br />
friends is Paul Tange, the son <strong>of</strong> Kenzo<br />
Tange, the father <strong>of</strong> contemporary Japanese<br />
architecture and one <strong>of</strong> the key proponents <strong>of</strong><br />
structuralism. At Institut Le Rosey, the oldest<br />
private boarding school in Switzerland, he<br />
befriended an Iranian boy who became a<br />
huge banker in London. I got to know them<br />
both as they spent a lot <strong>of</strong> time in Geneva.<br />
One day, we got together for lunch and this<br />
banker mentioned that he was curious about<br />
Watchland, so I brought him on a tour. As<br />
we walked through the grounds, he told me,<br />
‘<strong>Franck</strong>, I want to buy a watch from you, but<br />
the watch I want has not yet been invented.’<br />
This intrigued me immediately. He first<br />
explained his idea in 1995, but it wasn’t<br />
until 1998 that I introduced the watch.<br />
Why? Because the way I work is to put<br />
ideas in my head and then work on solving<br />
their problems in a natural way. It’s how<br />
I’ve always worked. I love to talk to people<br />
<strong>of</strong> all the different nationalities to learn<br />
about their cultures and their perceptions <strong>of</strong><br />
time, and in this way, I am always receiving<br />
inspiration. Of course, afterwards, you<br />
must figure out technically how to resolve<br />
the problems. What he told me was this.<br />
‘<strong>The</strong> world has changed forever. I spend<br />
almost no time in my actual <strong>of</strong>fice. One day<br />
I am in London, the next day in New York,<br />
the next day in Tokyo. What is important to<br />
me is speed, how quickly I can reach a new<br />
destination, how quickly I can react to the<br />
opening <strong>of</strong> the stock market there. When<br />
I wake up and I look at my watch, I want to<br />
immediately know when the market opens.<br />
Because in the time it takes me to figure<br />
out the time, I could have made or lost a<br />
fortune. So what I really need is a watch that<br />
is actually three watches, to simultaneously<br />
tell the time <strong>of</strong> three different cities where<br />
I am doing business. But I want to have<br />
all three time indications controlled by<br />
a single movement, and I want complete<br />
hour and minute indicators for each time<br />
zone… I may need to speak to my wife, who<br />
may be in Los Angeles; at the same time, I<br />
need to make a business call to Paris; yet<br />
I must also keep track <strong>of</strong> my meetings<br />
where I am. In addition, this watch must be<br />
incredibly simple to use.’”<br />
Understanding that this was a vital<br />
opportunity to bridge the gap between<br />
traditional watchmaking and the needs <strong>of</strong> a<br />
rapidly modernizing culture, <strong>Franck</strong> leapt<br />
at the challenge. He recalls, “I said to him,<br />
‘Look, what you are asking for is extremely<br />
complicated, because it is as if you are placing<br />
three clutches in a single movement. It is as<br />
if you are putting three clutches into a single<br />
car motor. I can make just one watch like this<br />
for you, but it will cost a fortune. If I can make<br />
several watches with this invention, it will be<br />
very affordable because I can amortize the<br />
cost <strong>of</strong> research and development over an<br />
entire series.’ He agreed.
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex<br />
Master Banker is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>Franck</strong><br />
<strong>Muller</strong>'s most iconic achievements
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>’s Cintrée Curvex<br />
Master Banker
second time zone<br />
third time zone<br />
reference time<br />
This is how it works<br />
<strong>The</strong> dial <strong>of</strong> the Master Banker has two small subdials with the second and third time zones<br />
displayed in hours and minutes. When you pull the crown to the first position and you turn<br />
it clockwise, it sets the subdial on the left (the second time zone); when you turn it in the<br />
opposite direction, it sets the subdial on the right (the third time zone). When you pull the<br />
crown to the next position, it changes the central hands (for local or reference time). Each<br />
<strong>of</strong> the three time zones can be manipulated independently via the crown alone without<br />
changing the others.<br />
So, I began thinking about this and there were many<br />
possibilities as to how to achieve this goal. But I began<br />
to reject many <strong>of</strong> my ideas because the mechanisms<br />
were too complicated. One <strong>of</strong> the major goals <strong>of</strong> true<br />
watchmaking is to achieve your aim with total integrity,<br />
but by using the minimum number <strong>of</strong> parts available. For<br />
example, if you can reduce the parts you need to make<br />
something like this triple time-zone complication from<br />
200 parts to 20 parts, you are 10 times less likely to have<br />
anything go wrong. That is an enormous margin <strong>of</strong> safety<br />
that you owe to the consumer who has placed his faith in<br />
your timepiece. If you look at the most famous clocks or<br />
watches, as I had the opportunity to do when restoring<br />
pieces for Patek Philippe’s museum and others, you<br />
realize that the best watchmakers always have this at the<br />
forefront <strong>of</strong> their minds. <strong>The</strong> goal is to achieve the best<br />
result with the least parts possible.”<br />
Amazingly, inspiration came to <strong>Franck</strong> in the most<br />
unlikely <strong>of</strong> places. He was overseeing the addition<br />
<strong>of</strong> two buildings at Watchland when, suddenly, he<br />
stopped in his tracks, in front <strong>of</strong> a daunting piece<br />
<strong>of</strong> heavy machinery. He states, “I was looking at a<br />
Caterpillar tractor, and the basic underpinnings <strong>of</strong> its<br />
mechanics gave me the idea <strong>of</strong> how to solve the puzzle<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Master Banker. What is incredible about this<br />
solution is that if you were to take 100 watchmaking<br />
engineers and put them in an <strong>of</strong>fice together, such is the<br />
simplicity <strong>of</strong> the mechanism I arrived at that they would<br />
never find it; or even if they found it, the first 99 would<br />
all come up with far too complicated solutions.”<br />
<strong>Franck</strong> knew that as complicated as the watch was,<br />
he had to create something easy to use. It was at this<br />
moment that the concept <strong>of</strong> operating all three timezone<br />
displays, as well as the date, with a single crown<br />
came to him. <strong>Franck</strong> adds, “Later, we augmented the<br />
watch to have day and night indicators for the second and<br />
third time zones as well. What was great was that the<br />
watch seemed complicated, but it was fantastically<br />
simple to use. If a client becomes frustrated with<br />
utilizing his watch, he will stop using it. Everyone could<br />
comprehend it. With this model,we began to sell 5,000<br />
more watches per year — more than what we had<br />
created before.”
“WHAT WAS GREAT<br />
WAS THAT THE<br />
WATCH SEEMED<br />
COMPLICATED,<br />
BUT IT WAS<br />
FANTASTICALLY<br />
SIMPLE TO USE.<br />
EVERYONE COULD<br />
COMPREHEND IT.<br />
WITH THIS MODEL,<br />
WE BEGAN TO<br />
SELL 5,000 MORE<br />
WATCHES PER YEAR<br />
— MORE THAN WHAT<br />
WE HAD CREATED<br />
BEFORE”<br />
THE LEGACY OF FRANCK MULLER<br />
Now, 18 years after the creation <strong>of</strong> his<br />
brand and more than a quarter-century <strong>of</strong><br />
groundbreaking innovations, the legacy <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> still resonates as clearly as it did<br />
the day <strong>Franck</strong> first dreamt <strong>of</strong> striking out on<br />
his own.<br />
He demonstrated to the world that even<br />
in a time when mechanical timekeeping may<br />
have been anachronistic, on an emotional<br />
level, it was more relevant than ever.<br />
To achieve this, <strong>Muller</strong> understood<br />
that he had to usher in an allnew<br />
vision for high watchmaking.<br />
He knew that he had to make traditional<br />
complications relevant by binding them<br />
on a cellular level with daring, innovative<br />
aesthetics. <strong>Muller</strong> also knew that he<br />
would have to single-handedly invent<br />
an all-new language for mechanical<br />
watchmaking, one where the primacy <strong>of</strong><br />
intent was to connect with customers on an<br />
emotional level.<br />
To achieve this, he had to uncover<br />
the hidden truth in how human beings<br />
perceive time. He then invented all-new<br />
complications to represent these emotional<br />
truths. While de’ Dondi’s work was to<br />
uncover the laws <strong>of</strong> science that govern our<br />
universe, <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>’s seminal work<br />
would be to unveil the hidden truths that<br />
rule the human heart and mind. In this, he<br />
has been groundbreaking, and in this, he<br />
has demonstrated his visionary capacity. H<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong> Cintrée Curvex Master<br />
Banker Tourbillon is a combination <strong>of</strong> two<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Franck</strong> <strong>Muller</strong>'s iconic achievements,<br />
the world's first wristwatch tourbillon and<br />
the triple time zone complication
<strong>The</strong> original Master Banker featured<br />
vertical subdials for the second and third<br />
time zones; in the Cintrée Curvex Master<br />
Banker Lunar, these have been shifted<br />
to the three and nine o'clock positions<br />
to accommodate a date and moonphase<br />
subdial, as well as day and night indicators<br />
for the second and third time zones