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Jock Mullard (1958) A winning mixture of old friends, delicious food ...

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<strong>Jock</strong> <strong>Mullard</strong> (<strong>1958</strong>)<br />

SIMPLE<br />

RECIPE<br />

A <strong>winning</strong> <strong>mixture</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>old</strong> <strong>friends</strong>, <strong>delicious</strong> <strong>food</strong> and delightful wine<br />

Left: The 1967 Oxford crew in Dan Topolski’s Mini Moke and above: Peter Tuke (1957) in front <strong>of</strong> his Oxford University Boathouse at<br />

Wallingford<br />

It seems only yesterday that I was lucky<br />

enough to row, with two other Radleians,<br />

Christopher Blackwall (<strong>1958</strong>) and Martin<br />

Kennard (1959), for Oxford in the Boat<br />

Race – a mere 40 years ago – so it seemed<br />

right to have a reunion in 2007. Our Chief<br />

Coach was Ronnie Howard and on his<br />

team, amongst others, were David Hardy<br />

and Sean Morris (1957)<br />

In June Oxford opened their new<br />

boathouse at Wallingford, so this was<br />

the obvious location. Peter Tuke (1957),<br />

who rowed for Oxford in 1966, won the<br />

competition to design the boathouse. Most<br />

boathouses are ugly utilitarian blocks for<br />

boat storage with a few rooms placed on<br />

top. Peter Tuke has produced a wonderful<br />

design, in sympathy with the contours<br />

<strong>of</strong> the river bank, a delightful light-filled<br />

building with glorious views <strong>of</strong> the river,<br />

but with all the boat-storage, changing<br />

rooms, meeting rooms and other facilties<br />

about which most rowers can only dream.<br />

Tom Barry (1974) who rowed for Oxford<br />

in 1980 was in charge <strong>of</strong> raising the<br />

£4million required to buy the land and<br />

build the boathouse.<br />

For wine the first place to go was<br />

Davenport Vineyards, owned and run by<br />

Will Davenport (1977) who rowed in the<br />

1982 Radley 1st VIII. After a degree in<br />

Chemistry and the University <strong>of</strong> London,<br />

Will worked as a lab assistant in a winery<br />

in California, then in the wine trade in<br />

London before studying viticulture in<br />

Australia.<br />

Will produces premium dry white<br />

and sparkling English wines. His original<br />

vineyard was planted in 1991 in Kent,<br />

and, together with his winery in Sussex,<br />

he now has 12 acres <strong>of</strong> vines, all managed<br />

organically under UK Soil Association<br />

Certification. The winery in Sussex is<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the best equipped in England. Will<br />

has been described in the wine press as<br />

…one <strong>of</strong> the most skillful and pioneering<br />

winemakers operating in England today.<br />

In 2005 Chris Messum (1993), who<br />

rowed in the Radley crew which won the<br />

Princess Elizabeth in 1997, started his own<br />

catering company, By Christopher, which<br />

caters for several London art galleries<br />

and for private clients. After university<br />

he had moved into the catering trade<br />

spending two years with the Cellar Society<br />

in London and then a year at the Leiths<br />

School <strong>of</strong> Food and Wine. Chris came to<br />

see the Oxford boathouse and its kitchen<br />

facilities, produced some <strong>delicious</strong> menu<br />

ideas and all was arranged in about twenty<br />

minutes.<br />

It had occurred to us that Will Docker,<br />

another member <strong>of</strong> the 1997 Radley crew,<br />

18 the <strong>old</strong> radleian 2007 the <strong>old</strong> radleian 2007 19


Simple Recipe<br />

Above: Lobsters ready for packing at the Colchester Oyster Fishery and below: the Oxford reunion<br />

Will Davenport with Hamish Aird at Limney<br />

was Managing Director <strong>of</strong> Colchester Oyster<br />

Fisheries, suppliers <strong>of</strong> wonderful oysters,<br />

crab and lobsters to many <strong>of</strong> the finest<br />

restaurants and chefs in the country. After<br />

Newcastle University where he studied<br />

Biomedical Sciences, Will worked in the<br />

Bibendum Restaurant in the Fulham Road<br />

before going to the Ballymaloe Cookery<br />

School in Ireland. For the next three years<br />

he had various jobs, including cooking<br />

for a Private Equity Firm in Mayfair, in a<br />

chalet in the Alps and as a private chef for<br />

a family on the south coast. In 2004 he was<br />

Head Chef at Yokanga Lodge in the Kola<br />

Peninsular in Russia’s Arctic Circle, catering<br />

for European clients who were fly fishing<br />

for large and numerous salmon. He then<br />

went to work Colchester Oyster Fishery as<br />

Sales Manager before becoming Managing<br />

Director in 2006. A telephone call and<br />

the use <strong>of</strong> his website ensured a suitable<br />

quantity <strong>of</strong> dressed lobsters were on their<br />

way by carrier to arrive, still nicely chilled,<br />

the next day.<br />

The guests arrived, over half the crew<br />

from abroad – Canada, the United States<br />

and South Africa. Chris Messum with his<br />

chef and staff were there with with <strong>food</strong><br />

and equipment. The wine was poured, the<br />

<strong>food</strong> was served, the recipe was complete.<br />

I can almost hear Old Radleians<br />

reaching for their pens to complain<br />

about the shameless use <strong>of</strong> advertising<br />

and the promotion <strong>of</strong> wet-bobs in The<br />

Old Radleian. None <strong>of</strong> the Old Radleians<br />

mentioned here have asked for their<br />

details to be given, nor, unfortunately for<br />

me, did they <strong>of</strong>fer me any special deals. I<br />

give their details because they are excellent<br />

and you may wish to contact them. And,<br />

in case you want to know, <strong>of</strong> course<br />

Oxford won in 1967.<br />

Architect<br />

Peter Tuke – Tuke Manton Architects LLP<br />

20 Prescott Place, London, SW4 6BT<br />

http://www.tukemanton.co.uk<br />

020 7627 8085<br />

Caterer<br />

Chris Messum – By Christopher<br />

Hops Cottage, 2 The Old Crown<br />

Skirmett, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 6TF<br />

01491 638 069 and 07799 642 059 (mobile)<br />

chris.messum@btinternet.com<br />

Wine<br />

Will Davenport – Davenport Vineyards<br />

http://www.davenportvineyards.co.uk<br />

01892 852 380<br />

20 the <strong>old</strong> radleian 2007<br />

the <strong>old</strong> radleian 2007<br />

21

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