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EMAP_2012_Report_6_1.pdf (7.3 MB) - The Heritage Council

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<strong>The</strong> only ornaments which appear in images are brooches. In the Book of Kells, the Virgin<br />

wears a lozenge-shaped brooch on her right shoulder (although this may be a symbol of the<br />

Word of God rather than an actual brooch (Richardson 1984, 32, 45)). Brooches are depicted<br />

on a number of high crosses, including a penannular brooch in the panel of the Arrest (or<br />

Mocking) of Christ on Muireadach’s Cross, Monasterboice (Harbison 1999, 136), and two<br />

penannular brooches on the Baptism scene on the Broken Cross at Kells (Allen 1904, 225).<br />

Two figures on the Cross of the Scriptures at Clonmacnoise each have a circular brooch on<br />

one shoulder (Crawford 1980, 76). An interesting representation of a brooch occurs on a<br />

caryatid at White Island, Co. Fermanagh (Harbison 1999, 136); this brooch appears to be<br />

worn as an ornament rather than a fastener, and its pin points downwards, contrary to the<br />

legal text noted above. Some brooches also appear on metalwork figures, including possible<br />

cross-in-circle disc brooches on the shoulders of an ecclesiastic on the Corp Naomh bell<br />

shrine (Johnson 2005, 306) and similarly on a twelfth-century figure of an ecclesiastic<br />

(Wallace & Ó Floinn 2002, 224).<br />

Material evidence of dress and ornament<br />

Garments<br />

<strong>The</strong> very limited amount of textile remains makes it difficult to verify the assertions of the<br />

texts regarding garments. Of 317 sites in the gazetteer, only six produced actual textiles. This<br />

scarcity must be contrary to the original distribution, and is primarily a result of limited<br />

preservation. For the most part, preservation due to water-logging means that textiles come<br />

either from the urban sites of Dublin (Heckett 2003), Waterford (Heckett 1997, 743-9) and<br />

Cork (Heckett 2010), or from crannógs such as Lagore (Start 1950), Ballinderry II (Hencken<br />

1942, 57-8) and Island MacHugh (Davies 1950). Another small assemblage came from<br />

water-logged layers of a raised rath at Deer Park Farms (Wincott Heckett 2011, 354-61). Two<br />

tiny fragments, probably of wool cloth, were found at Knowth (FitzGerald <strong>2012</strong>, 552, 557),<br />

and some fragments of charred linen were found in a kiln at Ballyvass (Clark & Doyle 2011).<br />

In addition, a single fragment of woollen cloth survived in a burial at Church Island, Co. Kerry<br />

(O'Kelly 1958, 92, 112). By far the largest single non-urban assemblage, consisting of 77<br />

fragments, was found at Lagore, dating mainly to the initial occupation period (Start 1950,<br />

204-5). Most of the textiles from rural sites are of plain tabby weave, but occasional twillwoven<br />

textiles occur, including one finely-woven piece from Lagore, possibly dyed with<br />

madder, which was interpreted as of Viking manufacture (Edwards 1990, 82). <strong>The</strong>re is also<br />

one twill fragment from Island MacHugh (Davies 1950), and the fragment from Church Island<br />

is also of twill (O’Kelly 1958, 135). For the most part, however, twill weaves occur in Dublin<br />

and Waterford. Decorative textiles include a fringed tablet-woven piece from Lagore (Start<br />

1950) which echoes some of the borders on garments which are implied in the iconographic<br />

sources.<br />

Most of the textiles mentioned above were made of wool, or occasionally hair; only a few<br />

small fragments of cloth made of vegetable fibres (probably linen) have been found, at Deer<br />

Park Farms (Wincott Heckett 2011) and Ballyvass (Clark & Doyle 2011). Urban contexts have<br />

provided a wider range of textiles; over 200 fragments of textiles, cordage, basketry and raw<br />

fibres were found in the excavation of houses, ditches and cess/rubbish pits in Hiberno-<br />

Scandinavian Waterford (Heckett 1997, 743). <strong>The</strong>se included fragments of woven cloth of<br />

silk, wool and linen in a wide range of qualities and weaves; a variety of cordage materials;<br />

knotted silk mesh filets; tablet-woven hair fibres and felted wads (ibid.). <strong>The</strong> excavations in<br />

Hiberno-Scandinavian Dublin likewise produced a variety of textiles, comprising over 2,000<br />

pieces. <strong>The</strong>se included 41 woollen and 27 silk textiles (of tabby weave fabric) from Fishamble<br />

Street and John’s Lane, many of which were identified as fragments of head-coverings, caps,<br />

scarves and bands dating from the early tenth to late twelfth century (Heckett 2003, 1). Silk<br />

weaving on looms was not established in northwest Europe till the end of the medieval period<br />

(Heckett 1997, 753), so the evidence from the Irish towns might indicate links with trading<br />

networks which stretched as far as the Silk Road to China. <strong>The</strong> distribution and nature of the<br />

106

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