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Digging in<br />

When terracing a hill, always work<br />

from the bottom up. The crew began<br />

by digging a 12-in.-wide x 7-in.-deep<br />

trench along the edge of the sidewalk,<br />

being careful not to disturb the soil<br />

below. They smoothed the b<strong>as</strong>e, making<br />

sure it w<strong>as</strong> level with the horizon<br />

(which is typically not parallel with the<br />

grade of the sidewalk).<br />

The next step is to spread a 2-in. layincrements<br />

before starting the project.<br />

The maximum allowed height for a<br />

dry-stacked stone wall is 4 ft. Because<br />

<strong>this</strong> site’s walls are less than 24 in.<br />

high, they do not require the installation<br />

of drain tile. If they were higher<br />

than 2 ft., they would have needed a<br />

perforated drainpipe under the b<strong>as</strong>e<br />

(see illustration, opposite), and the first<br />

12 in. of stones would need to be 18 in.<br />

wide front-to-back.<br />

er of compactable three-quarter-clear<br />

gravel, which is angular and contains<br />

no crushed material. The angled surfaces<br />

of the stones help to lock them<br />

in place, preventing shifting, and the<br />

absence of crushed material allows water<br />

to drain more e<strong>as</strong>ily. (Scott says you<br />

can use three-quarter-minus gravel for<br />

<strong>this</strong> purpose but only if you have sandy,<br />

good-draining soil.)<br />

Pack the 2-in. layer using a power<br />

Cutting stone<br />

For most of the project, you can pick<br />

through the stones to find a good fit,<br />

but sometimes you need a custom<br />

shape or size. You can use these<br />

methods for cutting stone:<br />

• Chisel and hammer (score and tap<br />

along the score line with the chisel<br />

several times)<br />

• Maul (whack and hope to get lucky)<br />

• Diamond-blade g<strong>as</strong> saw (rental)<br />

• Hydraulic splitter<br />

Get the free stone mobile app at<br />

splitter<br />

Some stones have visible grain lines that http:/ / gettag.mobi<br />

To watch Scott<br />

may indicate where they are likely to demonstrate how<br />

to use a hydraulic<br />

split, but in most c<strong>as</strong>es your results will<br />

stone splitter,<br />

depend on luck. You (and any bystanders<br />

or helpers) should always wear eye<br />

scan <strong>this</strong><br />

tag or visit<br />

<strong>Handyman</strong><strong>Club</strong>.<br />

and hearing protection when cutting or com/magazine.<br />

breaking stone. — CB<br />

D<br />

For times when<br />

a stone’s fit is<br />

almost (but not<br />

quite) perfect,<br />

Scott’s crew keeps<br />

a bucket of limestone<br />

chips handy<br />

to prop the gap.<br />

These shims become<br />

tightly affixed<br />

under the<br />

weight of the wall.<br />

E<br />

<strong>Stone</strong> shim<br />

F<br />

<strong>Stone</strong> shim<br />

Each row of stones is stepped back (battered)<br />

1/4 in. along the front faces. It’s a<br />

subtle graduation, apparent only when<br />

compared with a level. Battering adds significant<br />

strength to a dry-stacked wall.<br />

Put a stone sliver (shim) in any wedge-shape openings along the back sides; then fill<br />

behind it with gravel. The shim prevents gravel from sneaking through the spaces.<br />

HANDYMANCLUB.COM 25

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