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This stone retaining wall blends naturally into the hillside and complements the bungalow-style home beyond. No matter how small your yard, mowing a steep slope can be a dreadful task. And if you’re a master gardener (like the owner of this city lot), you might enjoy grooming a series of beds rather than maneuvering a mower on a horrible hill. So when landscaper Scott Reynolds of Creative Habitats Inc. in Minnetonka, Minnesota, transformed this sloping lot with a series of beautiful stone walls, we documented the process to show you how it’s done. Although building a dry-stacked stone wall like this one is timeconsuming, it does not require special masonry skills, and it can be less strenuous than working with manufactured concrete blocks, which are typically heavier than limestone. Scott and his crew of two tamed this bank (with the help of some power equipment) in a little more than a week. Though it might take a bit longer, a handy DIYer can tackle this project and create a timeless and enduring structure. HANDYMANCLUB.COM 23
tech art & design Getting ready In this dry-stacked wall, only the top course is set in mortar; gravity holds the other stones in place. The cut Chilton stones vary in thickness and length but are a uniform 8-in. width. Chilton is a type of limestone from Wisconsin that is available at most stone yards; you could also use other types of locally quarried limestone. For any stone wall that is higher than 24 in., drain tile (surrounded by aggregate) must be installed. For inspiration, look at stone walls in your area and check out stone suppliers’ displays to find types of rock and designs that you like. This wall is built in a basic running bond pattern in which all of the stones in each row are the same height, and the joints are staggered (strengthening the wall). Using a scale drawing and the dimensions of the rise and span of the hill (see “Design,” p. 26), Scott calculated the wall’s surface area and ordered 20 percent more stone than the plan required to allow for waste. (He also included the buried base layers of walls in his calculations.) Before you begin designing your wall, Scott recommends these preparatory steps: • Obtain a survey of your property to be sure your project fits within the boundaries. • Dial 8-1-1 to have utilities marked. • Tell your neighbors about the project beforehand; they’ll be more tolerant of the mess or any inconvenience and noise if they’re in on the plan. • Check with your city regarding code requirements, setbacks, etc., and about street restrictions for deliveries of stone and gravel. •Determine a convenient staging area for piling extra soil and supplies. • Know your soil. Is it sand or clay? • Collect all of the tools and gear you’ll need before you begin (see “Tool for the Project,” p. 28). Laying groundwork Cut stone is delivered in mixed lengths and thicknesses (ranging from about 2 in. to 3 in. thick), but each course of the wall must be made of stones of the same thickness. (Aesthetically and structurally, it’s best to use the thickest stones for the lower courses.) To save installation time, Scott sorts the stones into piles according to their thickness in 1/4-in. A B Add gravel backfill as each course of stone is completed. This allows you to completely and easily fill any gaps between the rocks before the row is covered by the next course. A power plate compactor is faster and more effective than hand tamping, and you can rent one from most home centers and rental companies. They weigh nearly 200 pounds but move along easily when running. Wear hearing and eye protection, gloves and reinforced-toe boots. A maul’s top end is ideal for tamping down the high end of a stone or for packing smaller areas of gravel. The tool’s weight and long handle make it easy to lift and drop, and the flat top works as a mini plate compactor. C 24 APRIL/MAY 2013
Page 1: HARDSCAPING By COnnie bastyr i Phot
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