Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl
Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl
Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl
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<strong>Performance</strong> <strong>Apparel</strong> <strong>Markets</strong>, 1st quarter 2006<br />
Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel<br />
In 1996 Patagonia<br />
converted its entire<br />
sportswear line to 100%<br />
organically-grown cotton<br />
Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss<br />
have been influenced by<br />
Patagonia’s lead<br />
Patagonia also uses PCR<br />
products in its garments<br />
It was the first to make<br />
fleece from PCR plastic<br />
bottles<br />
The company is working to<br />
create a fully recyclable<br />
garment<br />
The office buildings<br />
themselves are also<br />
designed with the<br />
environment in mind<br />
Companies are under<br />
pressure regarding<br />
ethical practices in their<br />
manufacturing<br />
Consequently they have<br />
been forced to develop<br />
and implement sets of<br />
ethical standards<br />
WRAP principles were<br />
developed to remove<br />
inconsistencies and<br />
provide one set of<br />
standards<br />
WRAP is an independent,<br />
non-profit organisation<br />
which promotes and<br />
certifies lawful, humane<br />
and ethical manufacturing<br />
In 1996 Patagonia started making its entire sportswear line from 100%<br />
organically grown cotton which is cultivated without harmful<br />
chemicals. According to Mr Chouinard, moving in this “eco-direction”<br />
has made the company more profitable because it has put it in a<br />
unique position.<br />
Other companies have taken notice. Indeed some larger and higher<br />
profile companies—such as Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss—have been<br />
influenced by Patagonia’s lead.<br />
Patagonia also uses post-consumer recycled (PCR) products in its<br />
garments.<br />
Indeed, in 1993 it was the first outdoor clothing company to make<br />
fleece from PCR plastic bottles. In 2006 it began using PCR filament<br />
yarn sourced from Teijin.<br />
PCR filament yarn contains between 30% and 50% post-consumer<br />
feedstock—in the form of plastic bottles, polyester uniforms, tents and<br />
garments—and post-industrial feedstock from yarn and polymer<br />
factory waste products. In fact, Patagonia is working to create a fully<br />
recyclable garment but until it achieves this goal it will continue to<br />
make clothes out of recyclable materials.<br />
The company’s office buildings themselves are also designed with the<br />
environment in mind. In 1996 Patagonia built a new service centre<br />
using recycled and reclaimed materials as well as energy efficient<br />
lighting systems.<br />
THE BIGGER PICTURE<br />
Environmental concerns are just one of a number of key issues<br />
affecting apparel companies globally. Many companies are under<br />
pressure from consumers, governments and the media on the question<br />
of ethical practices in their manufacturing.<br />
These ethical issues include workplace regulations, factory conditions<br />
and labour standards. When these have been substandard, they have<br />
attracted a lot of negative media attention. As a result companies have<br />
been forced to develop and implement sets of ethical standards.<br />
In order to remove inconsistencies which might occur between<br />
companies, and to provide one set of standards, the Worldwide<br />
Responsible <strong>Apparel</strong> Production (WRAP) principles were developed<br />
in the mid-1990s by the American <strong>Apparel</strong> Manufacturing<br />
Association.<br />
Today WRAP is an independent, non-profit making organisation<br />
which exists for the promotion and certification of lawful, humane and<br />
ethical manufacturing. Factories apply (for a fee of US$825) to go<br />
through the certification process which involves self-assessment<br />
followed by an independent evaluation when the factory is ready.<br />
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 7