Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl

Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006
Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel
In 1996 Patagonia
converted its entire
sportswear line to 100%
organically-grown cotton
Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss
have been influenced by
Patagonia’s lead
Patagonia also uses PCR
products in its garments
It was the first to make
fleece from PCR plastic
bottles
The company is working to
create a fully recyclable
garment
The office buildings
themselves are also
designed with the
environment in mind
Companies are under
pressure regarding
ethical practices in their
manufacturing
Consequently they have
been forced to develop
and implement sets of
ethical standards
WRAP principles were
developed to remove
inconsistencies and
provide one set of
standards
WRAP is an independent,
non-profit organisation
which promotes and
certifies lawful, humane
and ethical manufacturing
In 1996 Patagonia started making its entire sportswear line from 100%
organically grown cotton which is cultivated without harmful
chemicals. According to Mr Chouinard, moving in this “eco-direction”
has made the company more profitable because it has put it in a
unique position.
Other companies have taken notice. Indeed some larger and higher
profile companies—such as Gap, Nike and Levi Strauss—have been
influenced by Patagonia’s lead.
Patagonia also uses post-consumer recycled (PCR) products in its
garments.
Indeed, in 1993 it was the first outdoor clothing company to make
fleece from PCR plastic bottles. In 2006 it began using PCR filament
yarn sourced from Teijin.
PCR filament yarn contains between 30% and 50% post-consumer
feedstock—in the form of plastic bottles, polyester uniforms, tents and
garments—and post-industrial feedstock from yarn and polymer
factory waste products. In fact, Patagonia is working to create a fully
recyclable garment but until it achieves this goal it will continue to
make clothes out of recyclable materials.
The company’s office buildings themselves are also designed with the
environment in mind. In 1996 Patagonia built a new service centre
using recycled and reclaimed materials as well as energy efficient
lighting systems.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Environmental concerns are just one of a number of key issues
affecting apparel companies globally. Many companies are under
pressure from consumers, governments and the media on the question
of ethical practices in their manufacturing.
These ethical issues include workplace regulations, factory conditions
and labour standards. When these have been substandard, they have
attracted a lot of negative media attention. As a result companies have
been forced to develop and implement sets of ethical standards.
In order to remove inconsistencies which might occur between
companies, and to provide one set of standards, the Worldwide
Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) principles were developed
in the mid-1990s by the American Apparel Manufacturing
Association.
Today WRAP is an independent, non-profit making organisation
which exists for the promotion and certification of lawful, humane and
ethical manufacturing. Factories apply (for a fee of US$825) to go
through the certification process which involves self-assessment
followed by an independent evaluation when the factory is ready.
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