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Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology It is designed for undergarments, activewear and intimate apparel where stretch and recovery are required Its use in performance apparel results in a lightweight garment which appears sleek and seamless, and performs better Sewfree bonds withstand more than 50 wash cycles In outerwear the bond is waterproof and permanent Sewfree was introduced in 2002 and is designed for use in undergarments, activewear and intimate apparel where stretch and recovery are required. It has been used by a number of high profile technical outerwear manufacturers including Arc’Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear and The North Face. In addition, Nike ACG has incorporated Bemis bonded seam technology into its NoSew garments. The use of Sewfree in performance apparel has a number of benefits. For example, it results in a garment with a sleek and seamless appearance. Also, the weight of the garment is reduced because there is no stitching and there are no bulky seams. Furthermore, it improves the garment’s performance. Sewfree bonds are said to be durable and capable of withstanding more than 50 wash cycles. Another benefit of particular relevance for outerwear is that Sewfree provides a waterproof and permanent bond. In intimate apparel there is less abrasion, a slimmer profile and more seam stretch For intimate apparel, there is the added benefit that a stitch-free bond causes less abrasion, has a slimmer profile and allows seams to stretch. Sewfree can also incorporate Besides eliminating the need for stitched seams, Sewfree can be used zips, pockets, cuffs, hems and to incorporate zips, pockets, cuffs, hems and draw-string channels. draw-string channels Figure 2 Mountain Hardwear jacket made with Bemis Sewfree elastic polyurethane film Source: Mountain Hardwear The strength comes from a resolidified fluid Sewfree is applied using a combination of heat and pressure. This melts the film to produce a fluid which wets the surface. The fluid is allowed to cool and resolidify to form enough cohesive strength to attach two fabrics. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 43
Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology Sewfree offers many benefits over stitched seams Bemis claims that the features of its Sewfree range of products and garments made with bonded seam technology have a number of benefits over traditional stitched seams (see Table 5). Table 5: Bemis: features and benefits of Sewfree products Feature Pre-applied to fabric or release paper High heat resistance adhesion Superior stretch and recovery capabilities Highly pliable polyurethane film Non-yellowing Inherent anti-fray properties Transparent film Film repels liquids Continuous film Sleek bonded seam Source: Bemis. Benefit Confers greater flexibility for manufacturing Results in a durable bond with good wash durability and dry clean resistance Bonded seams closely mimic the stretch and recovery characteristics of the fabric being bonded. Seams remain unwrinkled and smooth Confers a soft hand in a variety of fabrics Maintains original appearance Helps to extend the life of the garment There is no requirement for colour matching as there is with sewing threads, hence the film can be used in multiple product runs Improves the water resistance of a fabric Provides consistent adhesion throughout the seam Slimmer profile of garments using less fabric and thread which means a garment may weigh up to 15% less. Seams are non-abrasive Heat seal seam tapes prevent water from leaking through sewn seams The tapes are designed to work for the life of the garment Co-extrusion results in a stronger molecular bond between the two layers SEAM TAPES Bemis produces heat seal seam tapes to prevent water from leaking through sewn seams. Seam tapes are made of thermoplastic adhesive film and are applied using a hot air taping machine. The heat seal seam tapes are designed to work for the life of the garment. Applications for these products include activewear (such as apparel for skiing, sailing, paddling sports, golfing and hiking), footwear, outerwear, rainwear, industrial work wear, military gear, hazardous material protective suits, tents and waders. Bemis uses a co-extrusion machine to produce its two-layer seam tapes. Co-extrusion means that the adhesive layer and the barrier layer are created simultaneously, which results in a stronger molecular bond between the two layers. This, it claims, makes for a better performing tape than that produced by separate extrusion processes. Table 6: Features of Bemis tapes Two-layer tapes adhere well to a wide variety of fabric coatings Tapes are 100% solvent free and eco-friendly Tapes can be made with polyurethane, polyester, polyamide and ethylene vinyl acetate adhesive layers All tapes are washable and some are fully resistant to dry cleaning Tapes can be slit to any width from one quarter of an inch to 60 inches (0.6 cm to 152 cm) and in any gauge (3-8 mm) The adhesive layer has a broad melt flow rate curve, resulting in good adhesion over a wide range of temperatures Tapes have a soft hand Source: Bemis. 44 © Textiles Intelligence Limited
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