Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl

Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006
Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies
Its own Composite Seam
System (CSS) technique is
used to sonically weld laser
cut panels for its soft and
hard shells
CSS eliminates seam tape
and thread crown abrasion,
and leaky needle holes
In soft shells, CSS uses a
strong adhesive to create a
seam of two overlapping
fabrics
CSS offers reduced bulk, a
softer hand and more
compressible garment,
improved water resistance,
and quick drying
In hard shells, CSS uses
closely butted seams which
are sonically welded
The CSS hard shells are
claimed to be 27% lighter
From autumn 2006 CSS
will be known as Welded
Seam Technology
Portugal-based Petratex
uses ultrasonic welding
High profile sportswear
companies such as Nike
and Adidas have
contracted Petratex
A polyurethane tape lines
the edges of the fabric
which form the seams, and
heat is applied to melt the
tape and bond the edges
Patagonia developed its own technique called Composite Seam System
(CSS), which is used in its soft and hard shells. The aim was to
remove stitched seams which were more bulky and stiffer than the
lightweight fabrics used in the company’s garments. For CSS, fabric
pieces are laser cut and welded sonically.
Stitch-free seams made using CSS are also claimed to improve a
garment’s performance by eliminating seam tape and thread crown
abrasion and the needle hole—an area of potential leakage.
In soft shells, CSS uses a strong adhesive to create a seam of two
overlapping fabrics. The narrow seam reduces fabric bulk and is softer
than would be the case using traditional sewn seams. It is also claimed
that it improves water resistance because there are no needle holes—in
effect the seam is as waterproof as the fabric.
The benefits of CSS are reduced bulk and a softer hand which mean
the garment is more compressible. Water resistance is improved by the
removal of thread—which can act like a wick—and the elimination of
needle holes which can allow water to collect in the seam. According
to Patagonia, soft shells made with CSS dry three to four times more
quickly than those made with stitched seams.
In hard shells, CSS uses closely butted (non-overlapping) seams which
are sonically welded precisely enough to use lighter and narrower
reinforcement tape to lock the seam.
Patagonia’s CSS hard shells are claimed to be 27% lighter than those
made using conventional cut and sew methods.
In autumn 2006, Patagonia is renaming CSS. From then it will be
known as Welded Seam Technology.
PETRATEX
Portugal-based Petratex uses ultrasonic welding technology to
manufacture its clothing.
A number of high profile sportswear companies have contracted
Petratex to produce lines of clothing for them. These include Nike and
Adidas. Petratex supplied Nike with 100,000 stitch-free items for
professional soccer teams in 2005.
Petratex uses a tape made of polyurethane to line the edges of the
fabric which form the seams.
Heat is applied to melt the tape and bond the two edges of the fabrics
together.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 31