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Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl

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<strong>Performance</strong> <strong>Apparel</strong> <strong>Markets</strong>, 1st quarter 2006<br />

Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies<br />

polymer types include polyurethane, polyester, nylon and<br />

polyolefin.<br />

—the thickness or gauge—<br />

—the film’s softening<br />

point, at which it begins to<br />

melt and flow—<br />

—and the melt flow index,<br />

indicating how an adhesive<br />

flows once it has melted<br />

A heat seal press may be<br />

used<br />

During production three<br />

key factors must be met<br />

precisely and monitored—<br />

—heat—<br />

—pressure—<br />

—and time<br />

Ultrasonic welding<br />

involves channelling high<br />

frequency vibratory waves<br />

to build up heat in fibres<br />

It is fast, accurate and fabrics<br />

stay soft and breathable<br />

Ultrasonic welding can be<br />

used on nylon—<br />

● A second property is the thickness or gauge of the film, which<br />

helps to determine its weight. Heavier fabrics require a thicker<br />

film for optimum bonding while lighter weight fabrics require a<br />

thinner film.<br />

● A third property is the film’s softening point—or the temperature<br />

at which it begins to melt and flow. As a general rule, the<br />

minimum set temperature to activate a thermoplastic film is 15°C<br />

above its softening point. Importantly, the film should have a<br />

lower melting temperature than the fabrics being bonded.<br />

● A fourth property is the melt flow index. This is an indication of<br />

how the thermoplastic flows once it has melted. A thermoplastic<br />

with a high melt flow index will flow rapidly after melting<br />

(similar to water) whereas one with a low melt flow index will<br />

flow more slowly (more like honey). High melt flow<br />

thermoplastics penetrate more quickly into fabrics than do low<br />

melt flow thermoplastics, resulting in a better mechanical bond.<br />

In order to activate thermoplastic films, a heat seal press may be<br />

used.<br />

During the production process, three key factors must be met precisely<br />

and monitored to ensure a strong and durable bond: heat, pressure and<br />

time.<br />

● Heat: during production the critical temperature is the glue line<br />

temperature (GLT)—which is the temperature at the interface<br />

between the two fabrics.<br />

● Pressure: this is usually applied by a pneumatic cylinder.<br />

● Time: for the thermoplastic to melt and flow into a fabric<br />

adequately, heat and pressure need to be applied for a precise<br />

amount of time.<br />

WELDING BY ULTRASONIC HEATING<br />

Ultrasonic welding involves channelling high frequency vibratory<br />

waves (typically 20 KHz or more) so that they cause a rapid build-up<br />

of heat in synthetic fabrics. The heat can be used to weld or cut the<br />

fabrics.<br />

Proponents claim that ultrasonic welding is fast, accurate and efficient.<br />

Also, fabrics retain their softness and breathability.<br />

Ultrasonic welding can be used to cut or weld materials such as:<br />

● nylon;<br />

24 © Textiles Intelligence Limited

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