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SIGNS IN SOCIETY - STIBA Malang

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i)8 I Comparative Perspectives on Complex Semiotic Processes<br />

times have changed," meaning that horrid conditions and arbitrary justice no<br />

longer characterize our penal system; a man next to me disagreed, muttering,<br />

"It's a better system than we have now."<br />

Only after visiting a range of differejr^xhibitions did I Begin to realize that,<br />

in addition to the[ pervasiveness of tHe enscriptiSr^ of differejhce at the level of<br />

manifest content, there was a subtler regimenting meclianism at work at the<br />

"phenomenojogical" level of touristic experience. The exhibition sites can be<br />

loosely arranged in a hierarchy of regimentation, using several intersecting variables,<br />

including financial outlay for admission, relative restriction of visiting<br />

hours, difficulty of access, rigidity of interpretative program, and comprehensiveness<br />

of textual material provided. This phenomenological hierarchy corresponds<br />

to the position on the hierarchy of eighteenth-century society instantiated<br />

at each exhibition.<br />

The streets and lawns of the Historic Area are open to the walking public<br />

at all hours of the day and night and require no admission fee. One can, for this<br />

minimal level of engagement, see the outsides of buildings, enjoy the gardens, and<br />

mingle with other tourists. Having traveled all the way to Colonial Williamsburg,<br />

however, few will fail to purchase one of three general admission passes: the Basic<br />

Admission, the more expensive—though tainted with a loyalist label—Royal<br />

Governor's Pass, and the still more expensive valid-for-a-year Patriot's Pass. The<br />

Basic Admission allows one to see the orientation film at the Visitor Center, to<br />

visit various everyday sites such as the Blacksmith, the Wigmaker, the Gunsmith,<br />

and the Wheelwright, and to tour the (democratically inexpensive) Capitol building;<br />

the Royal Governor's Pass is good for all these plus entry to the Governor's<br />

Palace and the Wallace Gallery; but only equipped with the Patriot's Pass can<br />

you enter Carter's Grove Plantation or the Rockefeller mansion, Bassett Hall.<br />

Additional special admission tickets are required for special programs, films, musical<br />

concerts, theatrical productions, lectures, seminars, and other activities.<br />

Tourists with either limited time or specific interests can also enter some of the<br />

more popular exhibits such as the Governor's Palace and Carter's Grove Plantation<br />

by purchasing a Separate Ticket. There is, I understand, an additional Museum<br />

Ticket, designed for those visitors who want nothing of historical reconstruction<br />

and desire only to see the formal galleries and the Rockefeller<br />

homestead, itself housing a private collection of American folk art. Like the fine<br />

gradations in eighteenth-century fashion, the ticketing system at Colonial Williamsburg<br />

requires careful study and practice.<br />

The hierarchical regimentation of touristic experience can also be seen in the<br />

regulations stipulating visiting hours and reservation requirements. The orientation<br />

film is shown continuously and tickets may be obtained moments before a<br />

showing. Most of the craft buildings are open all day, though every other day—<br />

requiring the diligent tourist to spend more than one day in local hotels, restaurants,<br />

and shops—without reservation and without the presence of a special in-<br />

The Semiotic Regimentation of Social Life I 139<br />

terpreter other than the craftsperson working the exhibition. Tourists are free to<br />

wander around, talk with the craftspersons, and stay for as long or as little as<br />

they want. Domestic houses are staffed by costumed interpreters who informally<br />

assemble a small group of tourists and guide the group around the house and<br />

grounds; their discourse is conversational rather than scripted, and they do not<br />

act the role of eighteenth-century persons. The one-hour Patriot Tour requires<br />

advance reservations to join a group of about twenty people, all wearing distinctive<br />

badges, who are led around the city on foot and in bus by one tour guide,<br />

whose monotone recitation varies little from group to group.<br />

In contrast, lines form outside the Capitol and there is no possibily of visiting<br />

this site without delay or apart from a numerically limited group. Visitors are<br />

accompanied at all times by an interpretive guide who engages in scripted conversations<br />

with costumed actors playing eighteenth-century roles. The Governor's<br />

Palace is much like the Capitol, except that the lines are longer and the<br />

entry ticket is more expensive; a separate guide pamphlet is distributed indicating<br />

the significance of every room, describing the experience the tourist is supposed<br />

to have, and justifying the imaginative "living interpretation" of the reconstruction—a<br />

touchy point since the original building was destroyed in 1781 and all<br />

researchers had to go on was an image on a copper plate found in the Bodleian<br />

Library at Oxford.<br />

Still higher on the scale of regimentation and distinction is Carter's Grove<br />

Plantation, located on the James River about eight miles from the city. To get<br />

there one must have a private car or hire a limo. The Country Road itself, described<br />

and mapped in a separate pamphlet, is designed as a touristic experience:<br />

"You have set off on a drive that will take you through the woodlands, ravines,<br />

meadows, and marshlands that compose a landscape typical of tidewater Virginia."<br />

The journey is not only through space and time, but also through social<br />

class, since at the end stands the plantation, whose masters, like the flora along<br />

the road, emerged naturally from the scenery. As the official guide brochure<br />

states:<br />

The Country Road has brought you from prehistory through the first years of<br />

European settlement and into the eighteenth century. By the middle of that<br />

century a class of wealthy planters appeared in Virginia. Because they had sufficient<br />

capital to invest in vast acreage and many slaves, the biggest planters<br />

profited greatly by producing tobacco.<br />

Carter's Grove Plantation is like Colonial Williamsburg in miniature. A lavishly<br />

illustrated orientation display welcomes the traveler at the Reception Center,<br />

where I watched interpreters-in-training preparing for a competence exam by<br />

transcribing the information in the display windows—an excellent example of<br />

the circularity of the habitus—and where a brief film provides the overview of<br />

the experience about to be experienced. This heavy interpretation contrasts with

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