Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

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74 nothing but bare broken rook--inaccessible all round. The majority of the men are bearded and moustached, and have cassowary feathers like a pad behind, on which they sit. They dress with a string. The demand for salt is very great; grains are picked up, and friends are supplied with a few grains from what they have got for taro. The name of the place is Kenagagara, 1810 feet above the sea-level, E.N.E. from Uakinumu. 31_st_.--Great crowds of people keep going and coming. We spent a miserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave round the fire, and it took him all night to recount the doings of the _Naos_ (foreigners), not forgetting the toilet. At times he waxed eloquent, and the whole gully rung again. It was useless telling him to be quiet. All men and lads have the nose and ears pierced. A number of women and children are about. Some of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and clear-skinned, as light-coloured as Eastern Polynesians. The children are lithe, blithe, and hearty--some very dark and some very light. The women have brought large quantities of taro for salt. Oriope is very sleepy, and I have every now and again to wake him up, so that to-night he may sleep soundly, and not prevent our sleeping. My name here is Oieva--that of the fine-looking old father of the village. At present I am all alone the others being out after birds. The natives are very friendly. They relish salt and ginger, which I have tried with them, and which they pronounce good. Ruatoka and Maka have returned; they shot a pig, which the natives who accompanied them cooked and divided, to be carried in. The excitement is great over the division, and the whole assembly are shouting; those from the hunt recounting the day's proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to the intense delight and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly raw. A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then division is made, then re-divided, and eaten. They take a piece between the
75 teeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to the mouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut up and eaten. _August_ 1_st_.--Left this morning to look for a track. We passed through a fine large village about one mile from here, and were joined by sixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces painted. They accompanied us for about four miles, and then turned away to the south. We continued on the ridge for some miles further, until we could see that all round were great inaccessible mountains with bare faces. It begins with the Astrolabe, extending west until Vetura is reached, and then away east by south until the centre of the range is reached. In some places it has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it is broken rock with bush growth, and only at very long distances can tracks be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We descended to the river, a large one, flowing west, through great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing here and there until, some distance down, and when eight hundred feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine and flowing river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inevitable _kuku_, and then skirted the side of the ridge, passing close by and under great rocks and overhanging cliffs, and up a most extraordinary steep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we sat down and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock. This West Indian "long breakfast" goes well when thirsty and hungry. The natives who accompanied us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them on the fire and ate them. A truly wonderful country! What terrible convulsions of nature there must have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and rolled about like mere pebbles! The villages are so built that they are accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. We saw no game of any kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near, as every one of
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1 Adventures in New Guinea James Ch
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3 Partial surveys of the south coas
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5 by the natives, has added enormou
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7 vegetable products--fine timber,
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9 take long for the natives to lear
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11 "To all to whom these presents s
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13 We left Sydney by the Dutch stea
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15 Murray Island. We went ashore th
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17 of the Loyalty Island teachers,
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19 We had a bath, then supper, and
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21 been about thirty miles off, and
Page 23 and 24: 23 We walked about seven miles thro
Page 25 and 26: 25 About three in the afternoon, an
Page 27 and 28: 27 exchanging names with us, in hop
Page 29 and 30: 29 were still mourning. There had b
Page 31 and 32: 31 came off to us in a small one. W
Page 33 and 34: 33 who considers himself the chief
Page 35 and 36: 35 walls and roof finished, when al
Page 37 and 38: 37 moment, and one in which I am su
Page 39 and 40: 39 natives that I had hoped to go a
Page 41 and 42: 41 arm. On running through the vill
Page 43 and 44: 43 child. The people continued trou
Page 45 and 46: 45 Communication was held with some
Page 47 and 48: 47 astern, that the first canoe wou
Page 49 and 50: 49 formation of the land and the ma
Page 51 and 52: 51 me, I shall return." It had the
Page 53 and 54: 53 "Oh no, my friends; pull, you mu
Page 55 and 56: 55 A girl steals out from the crowd
Page 57 and 58: 57 all done up in small parcels, so
Page 59 and 60: 59 who knows what he may be up to?
Page 61 and 62: 61 in the distance, numbers more si
Page 63 and 64: 63 When in the boat, we asked the H
Page 65 and 66: 65 When sickness is in the family,
Page 67 and 68: 67 16_th_.--Ruatoka, Joe (an Africa
Page 69 and 70: 69 20_th_.--Yesterday evening, abou
Page 71 and 72: 71 gave him some on his taro. He be
Page 73: 73 "If you go on you will be devour
Page 77 and 78: 77 understand them. It is very conv
Page 79 and 80: 79 to get tobacco and salt, their h
Page 81 and 82: 81 Owen Stanley. There will be plen
Page 83 and 84: 83 20_th_.--Last night, after turni
Page 85 and 86: 85 _Nao_, _nao_! (foreigners), and
Page 87 and 88: 87 They seem very much attached to
Page 89 and 90: 89 Seeing there was nothing for it-
Page 91 and 92: 91 Sogerians. I was sitting on the
Page 93 and 94: 93 natives. This part of the plain
Page 95 and 96: 95 streams from the Astrolabe Range
Page 97 and 98: 97 places precipitous rocks. The fa
Page 99 and 100: 99 true it was the Great Spirit or
Page 101 and 102: 101 grass bound tight at one end, a
Page 103 and 104: 103 afraid, expecting a raid, and a
Page 105 and 106: 105 "I am going to Motumotu, and no
Page 107 and 108: 107 the sea was too high, breaking
Page 109 and 110: 109 different. To get into Motumotu
Page 111 and 112: 111 I landed with them, and went up
Page 113 and 114: 113 In the afternoon we held servic
Page 115 and 116: 115 CHAPTER V. THE KALO MASSACRE. T
Page 117 and 118: 117 and, after the first moments of
Page 119 and 120: 119 at once offered me as much land
Page 121 and 122: 121 fighting all round, avenging Oa
Page 123 and 124: 123 not stay if they were to be con
Page 125 and 126:
125 and praying that He would care
Page 127 and 128:
127 at from aft, fell overboard, an
Page 129 and 130:
129 CHAPTER V. EAST CAPE IN 1878 AN
Page 131 and 132:
131 at East Cape on a Sunday. Morni
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Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

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