Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

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50 bye, Tamate; I shall be off in the morning to see you." Arriving on board late, we were welcome: they feared we had been spirited away. The following day we got round to Ellengowan Bay. After visiting all the villages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo and its chief. The tide was very low, and after pulling the boat some distance through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the mate and I going to the village. He had hoop-iron cut in seven-inch lengths in his pockets. The old chief received us graciously, and began giving me a long story of what he wished to do in the way of pigs and food, if I would only stay two days. It was a sickly looking hole, and not being quite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board and away in an hour. A large crowd gathered round, all under arms, very noisy, and certainly not gentle. A slight scuffle took place, but was soon over. The mate missed some of his hoop-iron, caught one young man with a piece, and took it from him. The crowd increased. I told the chief I should prefer his people unarmed, and not so noisy. He spoke to them, some put down their clubs and spears; but they were hidden in the bush close by. We bade the chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish to see me in the boat. Apparently with great carelessness, we made towards the beach, attended by a noisy crowd, all arms now picked up. Remembering the difficulty we had in landing, and knowing savages preferred killing out of their own villages, hospitality having ended when friends left the precincts, I determined not to have that crowd near the boat. I asked the chief to send them back; but to him they would not listen, and still the noisy crowd followed on. I shouted to them to return, and not come troubling us, as we were getting into the boat. No use; on they followed, and the boat they meant to visit. I stood still, and not feeling particularly cheerful, I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel--that I should wait and return to the village. Stamping my foot, as if in a towering passion, I told the chief, "Go with all your people to the boat; as for

51 me, I shall return." It had the desired effect. The people fled, and the few who remained listened to the old man, and came no further. We got to the boat and away, glad to escape without any unpleasantness. Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village of Daunai, from which the whole district takes its name. When here, our Chinese cook lost his knife, and, spotting the thief, determined to have it; but our captain prevented him from jumping into one of the canoes, and so avoided trouble. There were over one hundred canoes round the vessel, and altogether over four hundred men. We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes away by blowing the steam whistle--they were much afraid of it, and kept at a very respectful distance. We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed Meikle Bay, finding it in every way suited to its native name, Paroai, or piggish water, and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary boat. I went ashore in one of the canoes, to be landed at Bootu, and walk across to Milne Bay. Before leaving the vessel I engaged with the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon, and when I had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when they would be paid for all their trouble. So with our bags and a few eatables, we started; when about a mile away from the vessel, they headed the canoe more in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in calmness or wrath would get them to do otherwise. We touched at a place not far from a village we visited overland--some left us, and we were certainly now too weak to proceed. We ran down to the village, where we landed with my bag, and away went my native canoe men. Love or money would not move the villagers, and they were exceedingly impudent, knowing well that we were quite in their hands. My friend the mate, who insisted on accompanying

50<br />

bye, Tamate; I shall be off <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g to see you." Arriv<strong>in</strong>g on<br />

board late, we were welcome: they feared we had been spirited away.<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g day we got round to Ellengowan Bay. After visit<strong>in</strong>g all the<br />

villages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo and its<br />

chief. The tide was very low, and after pull<strong>in</strong>g the boat some distance<br />

through mud we left her <strong>in</strong> charge of the two rowers, the mate and I go<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to the village. He had hoop-iron cut <strong>in</strong> seven-<strong>in</strong>ch lengths <strong>in</strong> his<br />

pockets. The old chief received us graciously, and began giv<strong>in</strong>g me a<br />

long story of what he wished to do <strong>in</strong> the way of pigs and food, if I<br />

would only stay two days. It was a sickly look<strong>in</strong>g hole, and not be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

quite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board and away <strong>in</strong> an hour. A large<br />

crowd gathered round, all under arms, very noisy, and certa<strong>in</strong>ly not<br />

gentle. A slight scuffle took place, but was soon over. The mate missed<br />

some of his hoop-iron, caught one young man with a piece, and took it<br />

from him. The crowd <strong>in</strong>creased. I told the chief I should prefer his<br />

people unarmed, and not so noisy. He spoke to them, some put down their<br />

clubs and spears; but they were hidden <strong>in</strong> the bush close by. We bade the<br />

chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish to see me <strong>in</strong> the boat.<br />

Apparently with great carelessness, we made towards the beach, attended<br />

by a noisy crowd, all arms now picked up. Remember<strong>in</strong>g the difficulty we<br />

had <strong>in</strong> land<strong>in</strong>g, and know<strong>in</strong>g savages preferred kill<strong>in</strong>g out of their own<br />

villages, hospitality hav<strong>in</strong>g ended when friends left the prec<strong>in</strong>cts, I<br />

determ<strong>in</strong>ed not to have that crowd near the boat. I asked the chief to<br />

send them back; but to him they would not listen, and still the noisy<br />

crowd followed on. I shouted to them to return, and not come troubl<strong>in</strong>g<br />

us, as we were gett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the boat. No use; on they followed, and the<br />

boat they meant to visit. I stood still, and not feel<strong>in</strong>g particularly<br />

cheerful, I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel--that I should<br />

wait and return to the village. Stamp<strong>in</strong>g my foot, as if <strong>in</strong> a tower<strong>in</strong>g<br />

passion, I told the chief, "Go with all your people to the boat; as for

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