Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers Adventures in New Guinea James Chalmers

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16 about five miles off Boera. Near to the place where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove. We could see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness. It presented the same low, swampy, unhealthy appearance. Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside with Mr. Lawes and Piri on board. Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had expected to see him. He has suffered greatly from the climate. Piri is a strong, hearty fellow; the climate seems to have had little effect on him. They remained some time on board, when they went ashore in the vessel's boat--Piri taking the teachers and their wives ashore with him. The wind was ahead, and too strong for the canoe, so the men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri remained on board the _Bertha_ till midnight, when the wind abated. When the boat was leaving, they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not to be afraid, as they would not steal anything. They remained quietly on board till two a.m. Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning. The country looked bare and not at all inviting. This is now the most western mission station on New Guinea proper. Piri has a very comfortable house, with a plantation near to it. The chapel, built principally by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for the climate. The children meet in it for school. The village has a very dirty, tumbledown appearance. The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their arrival in the mission were living with Piri. We took them on board, with their things, to accompany us to the new mission. I returned ashore with the boat to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore, and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her, so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for Port Moresby. Piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe. We saw several dugongs on the way, which some esteem extra good food. Tom, one

17 of the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with us, expressed their edible qualities thus: "You know, sir, pig, he good." "Yes, Tom, it is very good." "Ah, he no good; dugong, he much good." It must be good when a native pronounces it to be better than pork. We arrived at Port Moresby about six o'clock. I cannot say I was much charmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren appearance. Close to the village is a mangrove swamp, and the whole bay is enclosed with high hills. At the back of the mission premises, and close to them, is a large swampy place, which in wet weather is full of water. There can be no doubt about Port Moresby being a very unhealthy place. We went ashore for breakfast next day, and in the afternoon visited the school; about forty children were present--an unusually large number. Many of the children know the alphabet, and a few can spell words of two or three letters. In walking through the village in the afternoon we saw the women making their crockery pots, preparing for the men's return from the Gulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago. We visited the graves of the teachers, which are kept in good order. They are all enclosed by a good fence. Within the same enclosure is one little grave that will bind New Guinea close to the hearts of Mr. and Mrs. Lawes. Over them all may be written--"For Christ's sake." In returning from the graves, we met a man in mourning, whose wife had been killed in a canoe by natives about Round Head. He and his friends had resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of the teachers they did not do so. The teachers from the villages to the east of Port Moresby came in this afternoon, looking well and hearty. Some of them have suffered a good deal from fever and ague, but are now becoming acclimatized. The natives of the various villages are not now afraid of one another, but accompany their teachers from place to place. Men, women, and children smoke, and will do anything for tobacco. The best

17<br />

of the Loyalty Island teachers, who was <strong>in</strong> the boat with us, expressed<br />

their edible qualities thus: "You know, sir, pig, he good." "Yes, Tom,<br />

it is very good." "Ah, he no good; dugong, he much good." It must be<br />

good when a native pronounces it to be better than pork.<br />

We arrived at Port Moresby about six o'clock. I cannot say I was much<br />

charmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren appearance. Close<br />

to the village is a mangrove swamp, and the whole bay is enclosed with<br />

high hills. At the back of the mission premises, and close to them, is a<br />

large swampy place, which <strong>in</strong> wet weather is full of water. There can be<br />

no doubt about Port Moresby be<strong>in</strong>g a very unhealthy place. We went ashore<br />

for breakfast next day, and <strong>in</strong> the afternoon visited the school; about<br />

forty children were present--an unusually large number. Many of the<br />

children know the alphabet, and a few can spell words of two or three<br />

letters. In walk<strong>in</strong>g through the village <strong>in</strong> the afternoon we saw the<br />

women mak<strong>in</strong>g their crockery pots, prepar<strong>in</strong>g for the men's return from the<br />

Gulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago. We<br />

visited the graves of the teachers, which are kept <strong>in</strong> good order. They<br />

are all enclosed by a good fence. With<strong>in</strong> the same enclosure is one<br />

little grave that will b<strong>in</strong>d <strong>New</strong> Gu<strong>in</strong>ea close to the hearts of Mr. and<br />

Mrs. Lawes. Over them all may be written--"For Christ's sake."<br />

In return<strong>in</strong>g from the graves, we met a man <strong>in</strong> mourn<strong>in</strong>g, whose wife had<br />

been killed <strong>in</strong> a canoe by natives about Round Head. He and his friends<br />

had resolved to retaliate, but through the <strong>in</strong>fluence of the teachers they<br />

did not do so. The teachers from the villages to the east of Port<br />

Moresby came <strong>in</strong> this afternoon, look<strong>in</strong>g well and hearty. Some of them<br />

have suffered a good deal from fever and ague, but are now becom<strong>in</strong>g<br />

acclimatized. The natives of the various villages are not now afraid of<br />

one another, but accompany their teachers from place to place. Men,<br />

women, and children smoke, and will do anyth<strong>in</strong>g for tobacco. The best

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