2354 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
2354
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
A
B
B
A
A
B
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
1 / 4
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A DRESS
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4
FOR SKIRT- AFTER PATTERN PIECES HAVE BEEN CUT,
CUT THREE 44" X 44" (115CM X 115CM) SECTIONS
FROM REMAINING FABRIC
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 18W 20W 22W
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 24W 26W 28W 30W 32W
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 3
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
SELS.
CROSSWISE
FOLD
3
B
DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING
SELS.
D
D
C
D
C
B
D
4
4
1
1
24 pieces given
SELVAGES
2
3
FOLD
SELVAGES
2
11
3
FOLD
CONTRAST BONNET
USE PIECES 6 7 8
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
SELVAGE
ALL SIZES
8
SEL.
7
6
1
18
19
FOLD
13
17
24
23
1-BODICE FRONT -A,B
2-BODICE BACK -A,B
3-COLLAR -A
4-SLEEVE
5-GUIDE FOR SKIRT FRONT UPPER EDGE
6-BONNET CROWN -A
7-BONNET BRIM -A
8-TIE END -A,B
9-FRONT FACING -B
10-BACK FACING -B
11-COLLAR -B
12-CUFF -B
2
12
21
3
4
14
BRIM INTERFACING
USE PIECE 7
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
B DRESS
USE PIECES 1 2 4 9 10
FOR SKIRT- AFTER PATTERN PIECES HAVE BEEN CUT,
CUT THREE 44" X 44" (115CM X 115CM) SECTIONS
FROM REMAINING FABRIC
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 18W 20W 22W
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 24W 26W 28W 30W 32W
CONTRAST COLLAR, CUFFS,
APRON AND HAT
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 9 10 11 12 14
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
6
5
15
20
8
7
22
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The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
USE PIECES 8 11 12 13 14 15
FOR APRON AND TIE END- AFTER PATTERN PIECES HAVE BEEN CUT,
CUT ONE 30" X 48" (76CMX 122CM) SECTION AND TWO 3˘" X 35"
(9CM X 89CM) SECTIONS FROM REMAINING FABRIC
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
12
14
WITH NAP
11
ALL SIZES
15
9
10
16
13-WAISTBAND -B
14-HAT BRIM -B
15-HAT CROWN -B
16-INSET -C,D
17-BODICE FRONT -C,D
18-BODICE BACK -C,D
19-FRONT FACING -C,D
20-BACK FACING -C,D
21-SLEEVE RUFFLE -C,D
22-DRAPE -C
23-SCARF -D
24-CAP -D
4
CROSSWISE
FOLD
4
SELS.
11
SELS.
SINGLE
THICKNESS
1
Trim corners
SINGLE
THICKNESS
1
SELVAGE
7
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
9
2
9 FOLD
SELVAGES
2
11
8
10
FOLD
SELVAGES
FOLD
10
13
10 SELVAGE
10
12
14
9
SELVAGE
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
C DRESS:
BODICE, SLEEVES AND DRAPES
USE PIECES 4 17 18 19 20 22
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 18W 20W 22W 24W 26W 28W
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 30W 32W
INSET AND SLEEVE
RUFFLES
USE PIECES 16 21
44" 45" TO 54"
(115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
4
19
4 18
17
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
19
21
16
17
SELS.
SELS.
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
SELVAGES
FOLD
SELVAGES
20
FOLD
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
CROSSWISE FOLD
CROSSWISE FOLD
22
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
b.
SELVAGES
22
18 22
20
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
SKIRT CUT THREE 44" X 44" (115CM X
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
115CM) SECTIONS FROM
WITH NAP / ALL SIZES
CONTRAST FABRIC
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
22
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 19 20
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
CROSSWISE FOLD
CROSSWISE FOLD
SELVAGES
20 19
FOLD
CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 2

English
2354
D DRESS
USE PIECES 4 16 17 18 19 20 21
2 / 4
FOR SKIRT- AFTER PATTERN PIECES HAVE BEEN CUT,
CUT THREE 44" X 44" (115CM X 115CM) SECTIONS
FROM REMAINING FABRIC
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 18W 20W 22W 24W 26W 28W
2
5
3
8
1
6
STAY-STITCHING
4
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
7
4 16
17
18
SELVAGES
20
19 FOLD
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
Sewing Directions
FABRIC
KEY
SELS.
21
SELS.
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
DRESS A, B
NOTE: Determine finished length before sewing.
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 30W 32W
1. Stay-stitch bodice front and bodice back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut
edge in direction of arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and helps
prevent stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown in the
following illustrations.
2. To make dart seams in bodice front, with RIGHT sides together, bring broken
lines together carefully matching small dots. On INSIDE, place pins at
RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Stitch the dart seam from outer edge to
the point.
TIP- To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few stitches right on the
fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch
at the point.
Press the dart seam flat along the stitching to “blend” the stitches, then press
dart seam open and point flat.
Make darts in bodice back sections. Press darts toward center.
3. FOR VIEW A - On OUTSIDE, pin ribbon over center front. Slip bound edge
of pregathered eyelet under long edges of ribbon; pin. Stitch close to long
edges of ribbon. Baste across upper and lower edges of trimmed ribbon.
4. FOR VIEWS A, B - Stitch front to back at shoulder and side seams.
5. To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam line and 1/4"
(6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine-stitch. Make elbow dart;
press down. Stitch underarm seam. Press up hem. To EDGE FINISH the raw
edge...stitch under 1/4" (6mm), zig-zag, OR overlock/serge. Slip-stitch hem
in place.
6. FOR VIEW A - On OUTSIDE, pin lower edge of sleeve over bound edge of
pregathered eyelet, turning under and lapping ends at seam. Slip-stitch
bound edge to hem allowance; then slip-stitch ends together.
7. FOR VIEWS A, B - Turn sleeve RIGHT side out.
Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides
together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with center small dot at shoulder seam,
matching underarm seams and remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches
to fit.
To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads until there are
no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm)
from first stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press only
the seam allowance, shrinking out fullness.
NOTE: You have cut out three skirt sections. One will be used for skirt front and
the remaining sections for skirt side and back.
8. With PRINTED side up, pin guide for skirt front upper edge along upper edge
of skirt front, having corner and side edges even, as shown. Cut away upper
edge. Transfer markings using a water-soluble fabric marker or pen. To
reinforce small dot on skirt front, stitch along seam line for 1” (2.5cm) on
either side of small dot. Clip seam allowance to stitching, being careful not to
clip into stitching.
16
4 18
17
10
15
17
19
12
SELVAGES
19
9
FOLD
20
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
SELS.
SELS.
20
21
11
13
18
14
16
CONTRAST CAP AND SCARF-
CUT CROSSWISE
USE PIECES 23 24
44" 45" TO 54" (115CM TO 140CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 19 20
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
21
9. Prepare skirt side and back as follows:
With RIGHT sides together, pin remaining skirt sections together, having raw
edges even. On one long edge, mark a short line 7-3/4” (19.5cm) from upper
edge. Stitch from lower edge to marking. Back-stitch at marking to reinforce
seam. This will be your center back seam.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt front to skirt side and back at side
front seams. To gather upper edge of skirt, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge
and 1/4” (6mm) away in the seam allowance, using a long machine-stitch
and starting and stopping 1-1/4” (3.2cm) from back opening edges.
10. Press up hem. EDGE FINISH the raw edge. Slip-stitch hem in place.
11. With RIGHT sides together, pin bodice to skirt at waistline seam, matching
centers front, placing side front seams at large dots on bodice front. Pull up
gathering stitches to fit, smoothing gathers 1-1/4” (3.2cm) away from back
opening edges. Baste. Stitch, pivoting at small dot. Press seam toward
bodice.
12. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on back opening edges. Pin closed zipper under
opening edges with tab end 1" (2.5cm) below upper edge, having edges
meet at center of zipper. Baste. Stitch 1/4" (6mm) each side of center and
across end, using an adjustable zipper foot.
COLLAR A
CROSSWISE FOLD
13. On OUTSIDE, pin pregathered eyelet to neck edge of bodice, having bound
edge in seam allowance and turning under ends even with back edges.
Baste.
14. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of collar.
Cut diagonally across corners that will be enclosed with seams.
Fuse interfacing in place, following manufacturer’s directions
15. With RIGHT sides together, pin eyelet to upper edge of collar, having bound
edge in seam allowance and turning under ends at small dots, encasing raw
edge. Baste.
16. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on notched edge of collar facing; trim to 1/4"
(6mm). With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar, leaving notched
edge open. Trim seam and corners.
17. Turn collar RIGHT side out, turning eyelet out; press. Slip-stitch turned ends
of eyelet
18. Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching. On OUTSIDE, pin collar to neck
edge, matching centers and placing small dots at shoulder seams. Baste.
Stitch, being careful not to catch in pressed edge of collar facing. Trim seam;
clip curves. Press seam toward collar.
Slip-stitch pressed edge of facing over seam, matching centers and placing
small dots at shoulder seams.
19. Sew hooks and eyes at small dots on collar when garment is finished.
On OUTSIDE, sew buttons to ribbon along center front, spacing evenly, as
shown on pattern envelope.
NECK FACING B
23
SELVAGES
24 24
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
19
FOLD
20. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of front and back facing sections,
following manufacturer’s directions. Stitch shoulder seams of facing sections.
To EDGE FINISH unnotched edge...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under
along stitching and stitch OR zig-zag over the edge OR overlock/serge over
the edge.
With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to neck edge, matching centers and
shoulder seams. (Facing extends 5/8" (1.5cm) beyond back opening edges.)
Stitch neck edge. Trim seam; clip curves.
21. To understitch press facing away from garment; press seam toward facing.
Facing side up, stitch close to seam through facing and seam allowances.
23
20
CROSSWISE FOLD

English
2354
8
4
3
6
1
1
22
9
9
5
2
4
3 / 4
2
7 8
10
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
6
3
5
7
22. Turn facing to INSIDE, turning under and slip-stitching center back edges;
press. To keep the facing from rolling to OUTSIDE, secure it at the seam
allowances by tacking it by hand, stitching in the ditch or using a small piece
of fusible web. Sew hook and eye at neck edge when garment is finished.
BONNET A
1. To form casing for elastic, on INSIDE, pin lower edge of bias fold tape to
bonnet crown along casing line, having ends even. Stitch close to long edges
of tape. Clip into the 3/8” (1cm) hem allowance just below bias fold tape.
2. To form narrow hem, press under 3/8” (1cm) on sides and lower edges of
bonnet below bias casing. Open out corners. Turn under corners diagonally
where crease lines cross; trim to 1/4” (6mm). Tuck under raw edges to meet
crease; press. Stitch hem in place, squaring stitching at corners.
3. To gather outer edge of bonnet crown between upper edges of casing, stitch
along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machinestitch.
4. Cut a 8-3/4” (22cm) long piece of elastic. Insert elastic through casing,
having raw edges even. Machine-baste across raw edges.
5. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of one bonnet brim section,
following manufacturer’s directions. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on notched
edge of brim facing. Trim to 1/4” (6mm). WIth RIGHT sides together, pin
facing to brim, having outer edges even. Stitch. Trim seam. Clip curve.
6. Turn brim RIGHT side out. Press.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin crown to brim, matching centers and
notches. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch. Trim seam. Press
seam toward brim. Slip-stitch pressed edge of facing over seam.
8. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on long edges of each tie end. Fold tie end in half
lengthwise, with WRONG sides together. Stitch close to pressed under
edges.
9. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on one end of tie. On OUTSIDE, pin pressed end to
lower edge of brim over small dot. Stitch end in place through all thicknesses,
as shown.
COLLAR, CUFFS, APRON AND HAT B
1. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of collar.
Cut diagonally across corners that will be enclosed with seams.
Fuse interfacing in place, following manufacturer’s directions.
2. With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar, leaving an opening along
inner neck edge for turning. Trim seams and corners. Clip curves.
3. Turn RIGHT side out. Press. Slip-stitch opening closed. Sew a hook and eye
to neck edge of collar.
4. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of cuff. Cut diagonally across corners
that will be enclosed with seams. Fuse interfacing in place, following
manufacturer's directions. With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to cuff,
leaving unnotched edge open. Trim seam and corners.
5. Turn cuff RIGHT side out; press. Machine-stitch cuff 1/2" (1.3cm) from raw
edge. Clip seam allowance to stitching.
6. On OUTSIDE of cuff, pin one edge of twill tape along seam line, spreading
clips slightly and having ends of tape extend 1/2” (1.3cm) beyond side edges.
Turn ends over edges of cuff. Stitch close to inner edge of tape and along
upper edge of clipped seam. Bring ends of cuff together. Slip-stitch ends of
twill tape together, as shown.
7. On OUTSIDE, slip lower edge of sleeve over facing side of cuff, matching
cuff seam to large dot and having lower edge of sleeve along machinebasting.
Hand-sew free edge of tape to hem allowance.
8. Turn cuff to OUTSIDE over lower edge; press.
9. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on long side edges of apron, forming hems. Tuck
under raw edge to meet crease. Press. Stitch hems in place close to inner
edge.
10. Press up 2-1/4” (6.3cm) on lower edge, forming hem. Turn under 1/4” (6mm)
on raw edge; press. Stitch hem in place. Fold apron in half, having finished
edges even and mark fold at upper edge with a pin. This will be the center. To
gather upper edge of apron, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge and
1/4” (6mm) in the seam allowance, using a long machine-stitch.
13
11
14 15
16
17 18
19
22
20
21
23
12
11. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on one long edge of waistband. Trim to 1/4” (6mm).
12. Pin WRONG side of apron to RIGHT side of waistband, matching centers
and placing hemmed edges at small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit.
Baste. Stitch. Trim seam. Press seam toward waistband.
13. Finish each apron tie end as follows:
Press under 3/8” (1cm) on long edges and one short end. Open out corners.
Turn under corners diagonally where crease line cross; trim to 1/4” (6mm).
Tuck under raw edges to meet crease; press. Stitch hems in place, squaring
stitching at corners.
With WRONG sides together, fold hemmed end of tie, diagonally, as shown.
Slip-stitch hemmed edges together. Gather raw edge of tie end.
14. Pin WRONG side of each tie end to RIGHT side of waistband, having
hemmed edges between large and small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to
fit. Baste.
15. With RIGHT sides together, fold waistband in half lengthwise. Stitch ends.
Trim seams.
16. Turn waistband RIGHT side out. Press. On OUTSIDE, pin pressed edge over
seam. Top-stitch waistband close to pressed edge.
17. Press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on lower edge of hat crown. Press under 1/4”
(6mm) on raw edge. To form casing, stitch close to inner pressed edge.
18. Cut a piece of elastic 4-3/4” (12cm) long. Insert elastic through casing,
having raw edges even. Machine-baste across raw edges.
19. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of hat brim. Cut diagonally across
corners that will be enclosed with seams. Fuse interfacing in place, following
manufacturer’s directions.
Make darts in brim. Press darts toward notched edge.
20. Stitch and press darts in brim facing same as brim. Press under seam
allowance on notched edge. Trim to 1/4” (6mm). With RIGHT sides together,
pin brim to facing, having raw edges even. Stitch, leaving notched edges
open. Trim seam and corners.
21. Turn RIGHT side out. Press.
22. With RIGHT sides together, pin brim to hat crown, matching notches. Stitch.
Trim seam; press seam toward brim. Slip-stitch pressed edge of facing over
seam.
23. Prepare ties same as BONNET A, see step 8. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on
one end of tie. On OUTSIDE, pin pressed end to lower edge of brim over
small dot. Stitch end in place through all thickness. Fold back brim along fold
line and press.

English
2354
1
8
4
6
11
13
STAY-STITCHING
9
2
5
4 / 4
12
14
DRESS C, D
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
7
3
10
NOTE: Determine finished length before sewing.
1. Stay-stitch bodice back neck edge 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut edge in direction of
arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching on
curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
Make dart in each bodice back. Press dart toward center.
2. With RIGHT sides together, stitch the two inset sections together at upper
edge. Trim seam.
3. Turn inset RIGHT side out. Press. Baste raw edges together.
4. FOR VIEW C - On OUTSIDE, pin 7/8” (2.2cm) wide ribbon to inset in
diagonal rows as shown, placing ends over small dots. Cut ends of ribbons
even with raw edges. Baste. Stitch close to long edges of ribbon.
NOTE: Ribbon will not be shown in the following illustrations.
5. FOR VIEWS C, D - With RIGHT sides together, pin each bodice front to inset
at side front seams, matching large dots. Stitch. Press seam toward bodice
front.
6. Stitch bodice front to bodice back at shoulder and side seams.
7. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of front and back facing sections,
following manufacturer’s directions. Stitch shoulder seams of facing sections.
To EDGE FINISH unnotched edge stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under
along stitching and stitch.
With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to bodice, matching centers back,
shoulder seams and large dots. Stitch front and neck edges. Trim seam and
corners; clip curves. Turn facing to INSIDE; press.
To understitch press facing away from garment; press seam toward facing.
Facing side up, stitch close to seam through facing and seam allowances as
far as possible.
8. To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam line and 1/4"
(6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine-stitch. Make elbow dart;
press down. Stitch underarm seam.
9. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve ruffle. Press up hem. Tuck under raw edge
to meet crease; press. Stitch hem in place. To gather upper edge of ruffle,
stitch along seam line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long
machine-stitch.
10. With RIGHT sides together, pin ruffle to lower edge of sleeve, matching
seams. Stitch.Turn seam toward sleeve.
Stitch sleeve into armhole same as DRESS A, B, see Step 7.
DRAPE C
11. With RIGHT sides together, fold each drape in half crosswise, having raw
edges even. Stitch double notched edge.
12. Turn RIGHT side out. Press under hem allowance on drape. To form narrow
hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease. Press. Stitch hem in place. To
gather raw edge of drape, stitch along seam line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE
seam line, using a long machine-stitch.
13. With RIGHT sides together, pin drape to lower edge of bodice, placing drape
seam to side seam, finished edge to small dot on inset and remaining
finished edge 5/8” (1.5cm) from back opening edges. Pull up gathering
stitches to fit. Baste.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW C, D
Prepare skirt and attach to bodice same as for DRESS A, B, see steps
8, 9, 10 and 11.
RIBBON AND LACE TRIMMING FOR VIEW C
14. Prepare ribbon trim as follows:
With RIGHT sides up, pin one edge of 3/8" (1cm) wide ribbon over bound or
straight edge of pregathered lace. Baste close to edge of ribbon. Repeat on
remaining long edge of ribbon. This will be referred to as prepared trim.
15
19
26
22
23
20
18
16
24 25
27
17
21
15. On OUTSIDE, pin prepared trim to neck edge and along upper edge of inset,
having one edge of ribbon along finished edge, folding out fullness at inner
corners. Stitch close to long edges of ribbon. Slip-stitch folds of ribbon only
at corners.
16. Pin prepared trim to lower edge of sleeve, having lower edge of ribbon along
ruffle seam, turning under and lapping one end at seam. Stitch close to long
edges of ribbon. Slip-stitch turned under and lapped end.
17. For each bow, cut a piece of 1-1/2” (3.8cm) wide ribbon 12” (30.5cm) long.
Tie ribbon into a bow. Cut ends diagonally. On OUTSIDE, tack knot over
small dot on sleeve.
ZIPPER FOR VIEW C, D
NOTE: It will be necessary to adjust the length of your zipper to the measurement
of the back opening from the marking on skirt to seam line at upper
edge, less 1/4” (6mm). Use an adjustable zipper foot to apply.
18. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on back opening edges. Pin closed zipper under
opening edges with tab end of zipper 3/8” (1cm) below upper edge of
opening, having edges meet at center of zipper. Turn upper ends of zipper
tape. Baste. Stitch 1/4” (6mm) each side of center and across end, breaking
stitching at waistline seam and stitching across ends of trim for View C. Sew
hook and eye at ribbon ends for View C or at neck edge for View D when
garment is finished.
To keep the facing from rolling to OUTSIDE, secure it at the seam
allowances by tacking it by hand, stitching in the ditch or using a small piece
of fusible web.
FINISHING FOR VIEW D
19. On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of 3/8" (1cm) wide lace trim just over lower
edge of sleeve ruffle, turning under and lapping one end at seam. Stitch
close to straight edge of lace. Slip-stitch turned under and lapped end.
20. On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of 3/8" (1cm) wide lace trim just over lower
edge of skirt, turning under and lapping one end at center back. Stitch close
to straight edge of lace. Slip-stitch turned under and lapped end.
21. Cut ribbon in half. Tie ribbon into a bow. Cut ends diagonally.
On OUTSIDE, tack knot over small dot on sleeve.
22. With RIGHT sides together, pin scarf sections having raw edges even. Stitch
outer edges in a 3/8” (1cm) seam, leaving an opening for turning. Clip
curves; trim corners.
23. Turn RIGHT side out. Turn under opening edges and slip-stitch together;
press. On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace just over curved edge between
small dots, turning under ends diagonally, as shown. Stitch close to straight
edge of lace.
24. With RIGHT sides together, stitch cap sections together in a 3/8” (1cm)
seam, leaving an opening large enough for turning.
25. Turn cap RIGHT side out. Press.To form casing, stitch along broken lines,
leaving an opening large enough for inserting elastic.
26. Cut a piece of elastic 23” (58.5cm) long. Insert elastic into casing. Lap ends
1/2” (1.3cm). Try on cap and adjust elastic to fit. Stitch ends securely.
27. Stitch opening in casing closed. Slip-stitch outer opening closed.
On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace just over outer edge of cap, turning
under one end and lapping over the other to finish. Stitch close to straight
edge of lace. Slip-stitch turned under and lapped ends.