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BeSPOKE 07

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A RANGE OF PREPPy SyMBOLS<br />

AND ICONS FROM TOP LEFT,<br />

MADRAS SHIRTS AND BRookS<br />

BRothERS JACKETS, l.l BEAn<br />

SHOES AND SURF BOARDS<br />

WITH IVy STyLE BRAND NAMES.<br />

STUDENTS ARE EXTREMELy<br />

RIGOROUS ARBITERS<br />

OF THE CLOTHING THAT BECAME<br />

PART OF THE STyLE SUCH AS<br />

BUTTON DOWN SHIRTS,<br />

pEnny loAfER MODEL<br />

MOCCASINS (THE NEXT PAGES)<br />

AND BASS WEEJUNS,<br />

PETER PAN COLLARS,<br />

TAB OR ROUNDED MODEL,<br />

SADDLE SHOES IN WHITE<br />

CHAMOIS, SCOTTISH WOOL<br />

SOCKS AND THE FAMOUS<br />

POLO AND TRENCH COATS.<br />

82<br />

Cole-Haan, Alden, Winthrop, Florsheim, Sperry<br />

Top-Sider, Clark’s and Lotus. Today Armani, Car<br />

Shoe, Timberland and Tod’s are Ivy Style trend<br />

setters. Having broken out of the campuses into<br />

the world of the professions, for new graduates<br />

Ivy dress sense became a sign of distinction, of<br />

where you had studied and a symbol of power<br />

and belonging and the retail temples became<br />

Brooks Brothers, J. Press and, until the 1940s, the<br />

university chain of shops called Chipp.<br />

the golden ages: 1920 and 1954-1967<br />

In the course of its long history the Ivy style was,<br />

initially, a niche phenomenon concentrated primarily<br />

in the cities of the North East coast of the<br />

United States. In two historical periods, however,<br />

it broke out of its tight circles and became a mass<br />

movement. The first was around 1920 and the<br />

second was the period which has gone down<br />

in history as the Ivy Fashion Cycle between 1954<br />

and 1967. In these years the Ivy League became<br />

PRINCETON STUDENTS, FROM TOP<br />

LEFT, HISTORIC BRANDS SUCH AS<br />

j.SimonS AND pAul StuARt.<br />

TWO CHARACTERISTIC IVy SACK<br />

SUIT JACKETS WITH NATURAL<br />

SHOULDERS AND VERy LITTLE<br />

PADDING SIMILAR<br />

TO THE ‘DESTRUCTURED<br />

NEAPOLITAN’ STyLE. PREPPy<br />

FATHER WITH HIS DAUGHTER<br />

AT yALE. ON THE NEXT PAGES IVy<br />

STyLE MANNERISMS, BRANDS,<br />

STyLISTS AND EMBLEMS.<br />

83

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