BeSPOKE 07

in these pages:
GaBriele pasini, CapsUle
ColleCtion spring-sUMMer
2014 preView.
dinner jaCket
with shawl Collar
in caMouflaGe print
Cotton gobelins FabriC;
waterprooF Cotton
jaCQUard dUstCoat
in Madras print and silk
sCarVes with paisley design;
jaCkets, pants, hats, gloVes,
shoes, bags: FroM prinCe
oF wales to sUede, here’s
the new “caMo” style.
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eye brings them into focus. those “military style”
berets, scarves and trousers evoke the world of
london –arabesques from the turn of the last
century that perfectly suit even the most extroverted
and meticulous dandy. it is a cheeky and
irreverent take on tradition, but a lot of schooling
went into this “camo school”. to break the rules
you have to know that jacquards can blend with
satin, that wool blends with mohair, that a man can
wear a tuxedo vest with double-creased bermuda
shorts with a prince of wales pattern, and when
the earth colors give way to the black of night, the
cuts get longer: that “just so” look is never out of
place, even on opening night at la scala. l’uomo
è mobile [Man is voluble], much more so than a
woman. a man loves to distinguish himself, camouflaged
in apparent simplicity but surprising with
unique combinations. so don’t call it just “camouflage”:
according to gabriele pasini, whose work
we admired at a preview at lardini during the
Milan Fashion week, even the classic three-piece
suit can be microprinted and worn with a V-neck
t-shirt. and he proposes maxi leather bags with
ethnic patterned silk scarves and ascot caps that
recall the english countryside, with twin-buckled
suede shoes and napa leather half finger gloves.
“don’t call it just camouflage” : it’s a new way of
looking at refinement and style. pasini dixit, and he
just might be right.
www.lardini.it
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