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BeSPOKE 07

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on the leFt:<br />

Mr. sven raphael<br />

schneiDer, editor<br />

oF the gentleMen gazette<br />

and a Close Up oF his jaCket;<br />

Mr. Gay talese, CreatiVe<br />

adVisor in new york.<br />

on this page: british<br />

Mr. Michael “atters”<br />

attree.<br />

162<br />

162<br />

if the portrait of dorian gray and the great<br />

gatsby were only books or the Cotton Club was<br />

only a film, it would be impossible to talk still of<br />

dandyism today. the figure of the male dandy<br />

was born at the end of the nineteenth century<br />

as a doctrine of elegance and beauty as ends in<br />

themselves. oscar wilde was the first to symbolise<br />

dandyism when he wrote of young dorian in<br />

love with his own image. wilde is still there in<br />

the popular imagination of the british dandy as<br />

is the rich american businessman described by<br />

Fitzgerald. gatsby has thus gone down in history<br />

as the most famous dandy Man and the success<br />

of the latest film confirms this. then there is richard<br />

gere dancing to the sound of jazz trumpet<br />

music in Francis Ford Coppola’s film and after<br />

him a range of stars of the cinema have been<br />

emblematic of dandyism such as adrien brody,<br />

justin timberlake, john Malkovich and jeremy<br />

irons. the dandy phenomenon - which in some<br />

way influenced the later hipster movement, a<br />

neologism coined in the 1940s for lovers of jazz<br />

and swing - has come down the centuries by<br />

means of decadent poets like Charles baudelaire<br />

and joris karl huysmans via the pre- raphaelites<br />

and dante gabriel rossetti. today the dandy<br />

spirit lives on in the new personalities of the<br />

book ‘i am a dandy - the return of the elegant<br />

gentleman’ published by gestalten. in it new<br />

york photographer rose Callahan and journalist<br />

nathaniel adams (editor sven ehmann) have<br />

collected portraits and biographies of modern<br />

dandies both young and not so young living in<br />

paris, london and new york who, like gatsby,<br />

163

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