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102<br />
Luciano Barbera<br />
Man of two centuries<br />
By fABRizio dE’ mARiniS - photoS By lylE f. RoBlin<br />
If the twentieth century, just as the beginning of the<br />
twenty-first has been, was dominated by Italian style<br />
and elegance in the worlds of fashion, dress sense,<br />
design, lifestyles, aesthetics and sophistication by<br />
means of the know how of Italy’s best master stylists<br />
of ‘the soul and the spirit’ then Luciano Barbera is the<br />
man of two centuries. An all round Renaissance man<br />
whose universal world view takes him from a grasp<br />
of the supreme essence of his raw materials to universally<br />
recognised works of art. And that’s not all. A<br />
work of art capable of charming - from the choice of<br />
the finest wools and fabrics to the finished item of<br />
clothing - the most sophisticated men and women<br />
of the earth, dictating style, codes and the most understated<br />
and regal elegance in every continent<br />
with the participation of the most sophisticated industrial<br />
and commercial minds in the world in a<br />
project such as the Biella Master delle Fibre Nobili<br />
which he set up in 1986, crucible for companies<br />
such as art workshops to pass on the secrets of the<br />
arts of wool and weaving. For thirteen months students<br />
move between theoretical training and direct<br />
contact with companies in work experience which<br />
gives them the chance to learn all the phases of<br />
working and distribution processes in the textileclothing<br />
sector through direct experience ranging<br />
from breeding of sheep to sale of wool at auction,<br />
making yarn to the finished fabric, from the cutting<br />
of the cloth to clothing design and finishing with<br />
the addition of the distribution logic of the great<br />
“yOUR JACKET TELLS<br />
THE WORLD WHO yOU ARE.<br />
FOR ME THE IDEAL JACKET<br />
MUST BE SOFT WITH NATURAL<br />
LINES AND BALANCED<br />
PROPORTIONS. IT MUST<br />
BE CLOSE FITTING AND NOT<br />
OBLIGE yOU TO MOVE<br />
UNNATURALLy.<br />
PRONOUNCED SHOULDERS<br />
COMMUNICATE VANITy<br />
NOT ELEGANCE TO ME.<br />
EVERy TIME I SEE A GENTLEMAN<br />
PLAy TENNIS OR GOLF<br />
IN A JACKET, I THINK<br />
THAT HE COULD BE<br />
A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE”.<br />
103