Development Of Nutraceuticals And Cosmeticeuticals - The ...

Development Of Nutraceuticals And
Cosmeticeuticals From Indigenous
and Traditional Plants: The
Ml Malaysian i Experience E i
Prof Dr. Dr Farida Habib Shah
Universiti Tunku Abdul Rahman
Also,
Novel Plants Sdn Bhd
shahf2@yahoo.com

The Melaka Experience:
Biotechnology gy Initiatives
Melaka Biotechnology gy Corporation p
MMelaka l k Institute I tit t of f Bi Biotechnology
t h l Melaka Biotech Holdings Sdn Bhd

Malaysia is one of the 12 mega-diversity countries
off th the world ld andd also l one off th the 25 id identified tifi d
biodiversity hotspots in the world.
The 12 countries above together contain at least 60% of the world’s known spp. Malaysia contains
about 7% of the world’s spp.

Plant Species p Diversity yin Malaysia y
Malaysia is
listed as the 4th listed as the 4
most
biodiversity in
Asia with over
15 15,000 000
flowering plants
and over 3000
species p of
medicinal plants

• According to Malaysia National Policy of Biodiversity,
there are needs to conserve the biodiversity:
Economic Benefits
Food Security
Environmental Stability
National Biological Heritage
Educational, Scientific
Out of 3000 listed medicinal plants, only about 50 are
litd ill d hd i tifi ll f
exploited commercially and researched scientifically for
their medicinal properties.

Why the need to document the plant
biodiversity? y
• Basis of global food security
• Resurgence of interest to use plants as medicines
• Increasing great demands of plant based drugs
• Provide better understanding of the plants at their
genetic level
• The need for effective and sustainable
information gathering and dissemination
system for local economic plant species species.

Out of 3000 listed medicinal plants, p , onlyy about 50
are exploited commercially and researched
scientifically for their medicinal properties.
According to WHO, use of herbal medicine needs
to be
1. Regulated so that there is no case of
inappropriate use ee.g. g wrong identification of plant
species
2. O f ‘good g quality q yof
herbal medicines’
3. Proper standardisation and optimisation
4. Constant Supply pp y
of raw materials

11. Objectives
1. To screen indigenous g and traditional plants p
in process of discovery of new plant
resources for plant extracts to be used in
cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics
industries industries.
2. To scale-up the production of these extracts
and /or bioactive compounds for
commercial use.
3. To develop formulation for product
ddevelopment l t

The Initial Steps
An Integrated Approach

Activities
• Screen plants for different groups of
compounds
• Set up related activities activities, tissue culture ,
farming , extraction units etc
•Setting i up database d b with i h DNA barcoding b di
for documentation and standards
• Development of down stream activities

Extraction of oils and Database integration
Terpenoids, etc and DNA barcoding
Screening
Plants species
Invitro production p
and chemotyping Plants species
Suspension
culture
Buy back for product
Buy back for product
development
FFarm growing i

22.0 0 Activities
• Screening of > 200 Malaysian medicinal and
aromatic ao a cpa plants sspeces species for: o:
1. Essential oils
22. Terpenoids
3. Phytosterol compounds
44. Anti oxidants
5. Antibacterial
66. Antifungal
7. Anti tumour activity

3. Spin- off companies
• InVitro tech Sdn Bhd -Supply of banana
and medicinal plants for growth to growers
in all states
• Tropical Bioessence Sdn Bhd-Processing of
Herbs for down stream cosmetics and
aromatherapy and perfume
• DNA Marker Technologies Sdn Bhd

THE NEXT STEP

Extraction of oils and Database intergration
terpenoids
and barcoding
Screening
Plants species
Invitro production p
and chemotyping Plants species
Suspension
culture
Extracts for
Nutricosmetics
And
Cosmeceuticals
Buy back for product
development
FFarm growing i

What are Cosmeceutical and
Nutricosmetic Products?
C ti l • NNutricosmetics t i ti
• Cosmeceuticals
– A class of cosmetic products
– A blending of the words
“cosmetics” and
“pharmaceutical”
– IIncorporate t th the potential t ti l
health benefits of specific
nutrients and food
components (e.g., vitamins,
phytochemicals, enzymes,
antioxidants and essential oils)
into skin products, such as
anti-aging ti i creams and d
moisturizers
– Applied pp directly y to the skin, ,
creating beauty from outside.
– A class of cosemetic
products with
nutraceutical
properties
– Products developed to
aid skin health, but are
ingested, are called
“nutricosmetics”
– Aim to create radiant
beauty from the inside
out out.

Nutraceuticals
'A nutraceutical is any substance that is a food or a
part of fa food f dand dprovides id medical di lor health h l h
benefits, including the prevention and treatment of
di disease.
Such products may range from isolated nutrients,
dietary supplements and specific diets to
genetically engineered designer foods, herbal
products, and processed foods such as cereals,
soups and beverages.

Needs for Cosmeceutical and
Nutricosmetic Products
Long tradition of interest in CCosmeceutical ti land d
products and foods to
nutricosmetics
enhance beauty in the Asia
Pacific market
products are
attempting tt ti to t fill the th
growing consumer
natural and organic g beauty y demand for more
products believe in the
hhealthful l hf lproducts d and d
concept of beauty from the capture part of the
inside out.
global multibillion
dollar market for skin
care products.
– Long tradition of interest in
– 72% of women who buy
– Continues to support this
region as an important
launching area for new
cosmeceutical products.

Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic
Products: Market and Growth
• Cosmeceuticals
– Current estimated $66 billon
skin care market.
– Sales of cosmeceuticals have
grown into a $14 billion
industry worldwide.
– Japan is a leader in beauty
supplements, which account for
15% or $319 million of overall
sales of dietary supplements.
– In China, China beauty supplements
represent 13% or $558 million
of overall dietary supplement
sales.
• NNutricosmetic tricosmetic
– Estimated current nutricosmetics
market is $1 to $2 billion
– US market for oral beauty
products grew at ~16% between
2001 and 2006
– Continued US market growth
predicted a market value of $1.3 $1 3
billion by 2011.
– Market for nutricosmetics also
experienced ~13% growth
during the period 2001- 2006 in
Europe when it reached a market
value of $836 million.

Oral Beauty Products Market
Value

Novel Applications of
Nutricosmetics
• The best delivery product vehicles are
– fortified foods & beverages
– beauty oriented dietary supplements
• Products must be
– easy-to-use
– multifunctional such as food and beverage products
– address both health concerns and appearance.
• Examples of nutricosmetics
– Yogurts enriched with beauty-enhancing ingredients
– ready-to-drink tea
– anti-aging jams
– antioxidant-rich chocolate-based beauty products

Plant Bioactives for Cosmeceutical and
NNutricosmetic i i Products-Addressing P d Add i GGaps
• Demand for fresh and innovative nutricosmetic products
• Screening for novel plant bioactives (antioxidants, anti-aging
metabolites) metabolites) from from new new edible edible plant plant sources sources (go (go with with native native plants) plants)
• Demand for innovative product-delivery strategies and
vehicles i
– Applying new cutting-edge technologies in delivery mechanisms
in in the the pharmaceutical pharmaceutical and and nanotechnology nanotechnology industries industries
• Demand for stronger scientific evidence and quality
standard t d d tto support t and d certify tif th the efficacy ffi
– Rigorous and systematic scientific studies to sustain the
knowledge g base for any y
claims

Native Plant Bioactives in
Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics
Different products that provide unique benefits to the customer;
for example, example Functional product (anti-aging, (anti aging anti anti-oxidant), oxidant)
organic or green product consisting of natural native plant
materials. e s.
– Native and novel ingredients >> marketing advantage
– Scientifically proven bioactivity >>quality assurance
– Scientifically formulated bioactivity >> custom made
– Room for development >> growth, with Quality Control

• In this case :
Smart Partnerships
• Novel Plants Sdn Bhd
• with Melaka Institute
• and Acelbio Pty Ltd
( Australia and China)

TTechnology h l and dPProduct d t DDevelopment l t
Platforms for Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics
Step 1: Selection, collection & pretreatment of materials
Advanced extraction technology
Step 2: Screening of extracts using chemical assays
Step 3: Functional test using biological assays
Step 4: Quality control and standardization of extracts
Step 5: Product development by formulating w/ extracts
Step 6: Stability test of developed product

Herbal technology…. Standardization & quality control
with proper integration of modern scientific techniques
& traditional knowledge is important.
Roles of Molecular Markers in Herbal
Drug Technology
1. Authentication of plant species of medical
1. Authentication of plant species of medical
importance.
2. Genotyping & quick identification of botanical
samples.
3. Detection of adulteration/substitution
4. Marker assisted selection of desirable chemotypes
5. Medicinal plant breeding
6. Applications in foods & nutraceuticals

DEVELOPMENT OF DNA MARKER DATABASE
FOR MEDICINAL, AROMATIC AND
ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN MALAYSIA
: BIODIVERSITY CONSERVATION IN MALAYSIA
Shah F.H., Nurul A.H.,
DNA MARKER TECHNOLOGIES SDN BHD
DNA Fingerprinting Lab, Melaka Institute of Biotechnology
Email for correspondence: shahf2@yahoo.com

DNA Marker for identification of different 2 varieties
of Pegaga (Centella (Centella asiatica)
a. Pegaga air- (PA)
b. Pegaga bulat- (PB)
E6 E7 E8
PB PA PB PA PB PA
E6 E7 E8
PB PA PB PA PB PA

1. (variety pumila)
2 2. (variety (variety lanceolata)
3. (variety alata)
DNA Marker for identification of different 3
varieties of Kacip Fatimah (Labisia pumila)
ram:
var. pumila var. lanceolata var. alata
A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M
A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M
A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M

Steps for development
Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics
– Discover native plant materials with bioactive
ingredients
– Extract the bioactive ingredients from bioactive natural
materials
– Bioactivity testing using chemical and bioassay
platforms
– Quality control and standardization of extracts
– Formulate the Cosmetics & Nutricosmetic products
with extracts and stability test of products

The Malaysian Native Plant Initiative
What is special about these native plants for
business?
- “M “Malaysian” l i ” – llocal lb branding di differentiation
diff i i
- “Novel ingredients”–product differentiation
- “Higher activity”–performance differentiation
- “Synergy” Synergy – combined bioactive extracts potential
- “Scientifically proven”–Quality differentiation

Business Opportunities for
Commercializing Cosmeceuticals and
Nutricosmetics Products in Egypt !!!!

Doing Business
WHAT - The Opportunities to be Different:
• New natural bioactives in your products
• Di Discover new bi bioactives ti and d start t t a trend t d
• Scientifically proven bioactives and formulation
• QQuality lit and d safety f t control t l
• Long shelf life bioactivity
• CCost advantages d
– High efficacy formulation at low concentrations
– Cost effective quality control
– Handle wide range of seasonal plant material variations

WHY we we’re re Unique:
Doing g Business
– Established technologies & protocols made available
– Suitability for industrial scale-up
– Scientifically proven & formulated products
– NNovel l bioactives bi ti continually ti ll developed d l d
– Access through licensing or commissioned R&D

How you y can be involved
HOW - Do business :
– Develop prototypes with your extracts
– Develop scale-up process through licensed technology
– Mass produce through license with us/ other stakeholders
C ti I ti
Cosmetics Innovation
Workshop Feb 2009

COLLABORATION
for (MENA) and HALAL market
Europe China
Middle East/
Pakistan
Africa India
MALAYSIA
MIDDLE EAST EAST AND THE MUSLIM WORLD
• Population: Population: l. l.8 l. l.88 billion
112 countries
• Trade value: USD 150billion

Track Record
• NOVEL PLANTS SDN BHD
MD MD, PProf fF Farida id Shah Sh h
(25 years in Plant Molecular Biology and Biotechnology)
• ACELBIO LTD ( China Pty Ltd)
Associate Professor Wei Zhang
Chairman, AcelBio Pty Ltd
(Bi (Bioprocessing i and d Bioproducts)
Bi d t )

THANK YOU
shahf2@yahoo shahf2@yahoo.com com
Novel Plants Sdn Bhd