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Rising up over the Tagus Estuary, one of the largest in<br />

Europe, Lisboa stands to be observed – its light, the<br />

colours of its buildings, its dark red rooftops, like the<br />

scales of some giant fish slumbering on the shore of<br />

the river’s edge. It is an unforgettable picture for those<br />

first visiting it. Moreover, with its famous seven hills,<br />

like Rome, there are many high points in the <strong>city</strong> from<br />

So here are some suggestions for the best viewing points:<br />

At Chiado, if you go up to the last floor of the hotel<br />

bearing the same name, next to the Grandes Armazéns,<br />

there is a cosy terrace where you can have breakfast,<br />

or make time before dinner, whilst admiring a view of<br />

the houses descending down to the river and rising<br />

up to the São Jorge Castle.<br />

Next, is the Largo das Portas do Sol, perhaps the most<br />

famous esplanade for foreign visitors, and one that is<br />

mentioned in all the guidebooks as an absolute must.<br />

Although the terrace is quite small, the actual view<br />

opens out onto practically the whole of the old <strong>city</strong>,<br />

spanning east to west.<br />

which one can admire the panorama. And what better<br />

plan could there be, after the climbs and descents on<br />

foot through the narrow streets of the old<br />

neighbourhoods, than to watch a sunset with the Tagus<br />

as the backdrop, whilst enjoying a coffee or a fresh<br />

drink? With its mild climate the whole year round,<br />

Lisboa’s esplanades are an open window onto the <strong>city</strong>.<br />

Yet another vantage point is the esplanade above the<br />

Eduardo VII Park, set alongside a small lake, or the<br />

second floor of the top-class restaurant, Eleven,<br />

overlooking the greenery of one of <strong>city</strong>’s largest gardens.<br />

In the distance is the Tagus, always present. Close by,<br />

at the Estufa Fria, (Cool House), there is a small covered<br />

esplanade, surrounded by exotic plants. A relatively<br />

unknown, shady spot, ideal for a small break to catch<br />

up on your guidebook, and for some silence.<br />

Then, there are the esplanades that are more suited<br />

for observing the to-and-fro of people, their<br />

conversations, gestures, faces, clothes…<br />

You can begin at Martinho da Arcada, at the Terreiro<br />

do Paço. This was a favourite haunt of the poet and<br />

writer, Fernando Pessoa, who spent many of his late<br />

afternoons here, after leaving work.<br />

LEISURE<br />

46 _<br />

47

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